sailboat strut repair

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• Strut Alignments

A properly aligned strut is a critical component to an overall smooth running propulsion system.  All too often yards and mechanics will straighten shafts or align engines without looking at the strut bearing alignment.  Struts can be out of alignment due to a poor factory set-up or a hard grounding causing a bent or twisted strut.

This article covers the alignment of a strut with a fixed cutlass bearing.  That is – the cutlass bearing is pressed into the strut barrel without any play or ability to adjust.  There is another process used on some boats that allows a cutlass bearing to be “float aligned” – the boar of the strut barrel is much larger that the outer diameter of the cutlass bearing and filler material is used to aim the bearing without moving the strut.  This process is discussed in detail in the next technical article titled Cutlass Bearing Float Alignment .  Whether your boat requires a strut alignment or a floated bearing alignment is based on the original construction of the boat.   Strut alignments are complex and require the proper alignment systems.  Once a strut is removed from a boat it is a major repair and should only be left to the specialist and professionals in this field.

A strut alignment begins with the alignment analysis.  We prefer the exactness of a optical scope alignment to measure precise misalignment.  When scoping the strut from behind a set of optical targets are placed in the aft end of the strut bearing and the forward end.  The scope is set up and aligned to the current strut bearing.  Once the scope is set to that alignment it is easy to focus forward on the exit tube – if the bearing aimed directly at the center of the exit tube the strut is misaligned.

In order to align the strut it must be removed or dropped from the bottom of the boat.  All of the strut bolts are removed and a considerable forced is applied to break the bond between the strut and the hull (typically and epoxy, chalk-fast, marine tex or 5200).  Proper equipment and safety are a major concern since some struts can weigh hundreds of pounds each.

Once removed, the strut pad and hull pocket must be ground clean in preparation for installation.  Extra jacking holes are drilled and tapped in the four corners of the strut pad to help with fine tuning adjustments.  Once preparation is complete, the strut is put back into position by hanging it in place with all thread, nuts and washers in four of the original strut bolt holes.  The optical scope is reset and the optics are placed back in the strut cutlass bearing.  Using a variety of jack bolts and adjustment screws the strut is slowly put into the right alignment position.

When the strut is in the proper aligned position there will be a gap between the hull and strut.  ChockFast or Marine Tex is injected in this gap to form a perfect fit with the bottom of the hull.  The strut bolts are drilled out to remove the filler material and the bolts are put back in place with 5200.

Aligning a strut is usually a once in a boat-life project unless a catastrophic grounding occurs.  A properly aligned strut will free-up an engine to provide a smooth ride for comfort and higher speed, lower fuel consumption for performance.  Driving around with a poorly aligned strut is like driving your car with the parking brake on – you are just using horsepower to overcome unnecessary friction.

All in a day’s work for High Seas Yacht Service.

Poor engine and strut alignment leads to unwanted vibrations, loss of power, reduced fuel economy and accelerated wear on bearings and transmissions.

To schedule an inspection while you are in the Fort Lauderdale area or compare notes on a technical question, call or email Chris. 954-975-8220 [email protected].

• Watch this video of a High Seas technician performing a scope alignment on a 49 foot EastBay.

Good background reading

• Deck Targeting
• Shaft Weld-overs
• Optical Scope Alignment – the Basics
• Video Alignments
• In vs. Out of Water Alignments
• Cutlass Bearing “Float” Alignment
• How Much Does My Boat Weigh?

Check out our recent work

• Overhauling the Running Gear on an Iconic Fort Lauderdale Riverboat Attraction
• Upgrading the Wartsila Shaft Seal System as Part of a Running Gear Overhaul
• When Time is of the Essence, High Seas Delivers Results
• Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show is Right Around the Corner.
• Re-powering the World’s Largest Sport Fishing Boats
• Strut Alignment using Cardan Shafts
• Aligning Struts After a Grounding
• Need Running Gear and Hydraulic Work Done on your Yacht – Work with Us
• Eliminating Engine Vibrations – Is a Strut Alignment the Answer?
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If you’re like most sailors, the engine on your sailboat often gets used for much more than just coming in and out of the harbor. When the wind is gone they get used for hours on end to take us to our favorite places!

Have you ever noticed a clunking or hammering sound while motoring? If so it’s possible your prop shaft strut bearing might be worn out. Note that sometimes these bearings are referred to as a Cutless bearing, which is correct. The tradename “Cutless” is a registered trademark owned by Duramax Marine, however.

So what does a prop shaft strut bearing do exactly? The prop shaft passes through the strut but is supported by a bearing. It’s basically a brass sleeve with a hard rubber insert that’s ribbed. The ribs keep the prop shaft inline and also allow water to flow through, which lubricates the bearing. As time goes by the prop shaft can wear the rubber ribs down, which means the prop shaft will no longer fit tight in the bearing and may create a clunking noise.

You can easily check the bearing when the boat is out of the water by pushing on the shaft side to side or up and down. If it moves at all, you need a new bearing.

Replacing the bearing is relatively straightforward, or at least it should be? Simply loosen the set screws on the strut and slide the bearing the bearing out. Seems simple enough doesn’t it? Well, these bearings are pressed in place, so they won’t’ just slide out on their own after removing the set screws. The traditional way of removing the bearing requires pulling the prop shaft out, followed by pulling the bearing out with a gear puller. I’ve seen people try to hammer the bearing out. Word of advice, DON’T DO IT! You could loosen the strut in the hull, causing more problems, including water leaks.  Sometimes the rudder is very close to the shaft and has to be removed as well.

Removing the bearing shouldn’t have to be so much work, so we came up with an easier way that uses a jig to push the bearing out with the prop shaft in place. . The only additional thing that needs to be removed is the prop itself. The idea is to make a sleeve out of 1″ pipe that fits over the prop shaft to push the bearing out. I used a 4” section of pipe that is small enough to slide through the strut. In order to get it on the prop shaft, I had to split the pipe. I split it by using a hacksaw, but finding a friend with a power hacksaw would be worth your time.

In addition to the split pipe, we made our own jig, which is essentially a portable puller/pusher that is made up of bars, rod, bolts, nuts and washers from the hardware store. To make the jig start by cutting four 7-1/2” lengths from 1/4 x 1-1/2” steel bar stock. Layout and drill the 7/16” holes as dimensioned on the Pressure Bar drawing. Cut two 18” lengths of 1/2” threaded rod, and then assemble as shown in the video.

The advantage of the jig is that not only does it push the old bearing out but also works as a tool to push the new bearing in. You’ll notice that the jig has springs between the steel bars at the back. These are there to keep the bar spacing correct. When you push the bearing out you’ll want enough space between those bars so the bearing can pass through. When you install the new bearing you’ll want less space between those bars so they can make contact with the end of the bearing. Also, note that when you install the new bearing you’ll want to pay careful attention that the bearing stays aligned with the hole in the strut.

Once the new bearing is in place you can lock it in place with the set screws. Reinstall the prop and you are ready for some happy motoring!

• How a prop shaft bearing works
• How to remove and install a new bearing
• How to make a strut bearing removal and installation jig
• How to smile now that your boat motors super smooth!

This removal jig made it super easy to replace the strut bearing on the our boat. All of the supplies are available at your local home center or hardware store.

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Beneteau First 42 Prop strut repair

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• P BRACKET REPLACEMENT.pdf 323.7 KB Views: 131

I get your point. If it moves, something would seem to have rounded out inside. I'm scratching my head on how they'll get the old strut out, without essentially removing the interior housing anyway. I know there are after market manufacturers of p-struts, but I've never need to use one (hoping it stays that way). Your boat must be going on 40 years old, as I don't think they've been made, since the early 80s. There may be some logic that says, if it hasn't dezincified yet........? Hard to say.  

A member here (eherilhy) replaced his strut in his ODay 35 within the last year. He had a custom strut made up for him. The ODay strut has a palm so installation is different. A search here should turn up that thread. Also a number of years ago a member (now inactive) replaced the strut in his Cal 33. Also had one made up for him by the original foundry. That strut doesn't have a palm so is installed like yours. Since Beneteau is still in business unlike ODay and Cal, they may be able to tell you where to get a new strut. Also Buck Algonquin sells off the shelf struts like that with no palm. If the strut is still in good shape and just needs to be reattached, I see no reason why that can't be done without removing the shaft and rudder.  

Thanks for your reply Minnewaska. I believe the strut is locked in place vertically by a single through bolt that is captured by the sides of the housing. With the top of the housing cut away the bolt could be cut flush with the strut allowing the strut to be slid down and out of the hull. I’ll sand down the lower portion of the strut to bright metal to try to assess the state of dezincification.  

SvNovia said: With the top of the housing cut away the bolt could be cut flush with the strut allowing the strut to be slid down and out of the hull. Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply JimsCAL. Have reached out to Beneteau for information on the repair and a source for the strut and am awaiting a reply. I was initially considering the possibility of simply re-aligning the strut and refilling the strut housing cavity with epoxy but just as a temporary measure.  

Yes, that would be a temporary fix. I am suggesting if the existing strut is solid, you reinstall it following the procedure you posted from Bene. That's how you would put a new one in. That would not be a temporary fix.  

I’m assuming the bolt is just long enough to get a nut fully threaded. I would dig the head and nut ends out of the glass/epoxy build up after the strut was removed. To reinstall I would have to cut down the housing to the height of the strut through hole.  

Oh! Gotcha. Interesting point JimsCAL. If the plan from the start is to completely redo the glass housing as per the instructions from Beneteau, it may be possible to remove the entire housing with the strut in place, assuming a visual inspection of the strut is sufficient to assess its condition. Then follow the full procedure to align it and rebuild the housing with the shaft in place saving the time it would take to remove the steering mechanism and rudder. I hadn’t considered that. I’ll be at the yard tomorrow to sand and clean the exposed portion of the strut and I’ll try to determine the added difficulty of removing the housing and prepping the inner hull using that method. Thanks for the suggestion JimsCAL.  

I don’t think the hours quoted are out of line. I would think if there is any water migration the plywood is suspect. I like the idea on checking the zinc penetration on the piece. Wise words. Maybe Beneteau could find one on the parts shelf in Carolina or France. They probably have 10 hours of predictable fudge. Happy to hear Beneteau is helping.  

Thanks for your reply Den. The old strut had suffered enough dezincification to warrant replacement. Beneteau did respond (through a local dealership) but the answer was no, they didn’t have any replacement. Rather than modifying the hull to accommodate a different style strut I decided to cast a new part using the old one as a mold. I haven’t checked the state of the ply side braces yet. But I’ll be checking that as the refit proceeds. So far just enough of the glass support structure was removed to facilitate removal of the old strut.  

Well I hope everything works out brand new used. I hope you’re taking photos for future boaters to make the tough decisions. Do you have any idea how this wear showed up. Was the prop hit at full speed. Could a damaged prop or bent shaft cause this?  

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Strut repair

Discussion in ' Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building ' started by Aaron Darby , Feb 2, 2021 .

Aaron Darby Junior Member

New here, did a little searching but didn’t find anything on how to repair a leaking strut. I’m helping a friend on his 64’ Harkers Islans Kingfisher. The STBD strut leaks, so we pulled her out of the water and I’ve gone to work. Of the 6 bolts that hold the strut on to the hull one is spun out and two look like they are leaking water since they are corroded even though they are stainless. I’ve removed the stainless backing plate and of course the spun bolt looks like it may have been leaking. The strut has been faired on the hull and when I ground out material to access the three bolts heads that I assume are potential leaks I noticed that the fairing compound didn’t stick to the strut, there is a void between the strut and fairing compound and water can reach the bolt heads, probably all of them. I’ve done a little research and assume the strut was bedded to the hull so my plan is to grind out all the faring material starting at the strut and working towards the hull until I can verify good solid contact. I’ll remove all the bolts, clean them or get new ones and install (backing plate as well) with plenty of 5200. I’ve done some epoxy work and feel confident in my skills but never have worked with a brass strut or hardware and epoxy before. Is a good thorough cleaning with a coat of epoxy and then fairing compound all I need or do I need to etch it, maybe prime it first. Any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  

bajansailor Marine Surveyor

Welcome to the Forum Aaron. Is your friend's boat like a bigger version of this 50' Harkers Island sportsfisherman? Harkers Island Sportfish Charter Yacht for Sale, | Viva Boats https://www.vivaboats.com/-harkers-island-sportfish-charter-yacht/Power-boats/14858 Is there still any bedding compound between the strut baseplate and the hull? Your proposal sounds reasonable - although the strut will be what everybody knows as bronze, rather than brass (but anybody pedantic might say it is a type of brass). Would it be possible / feasible to undo all the bolts, and slide the strut aft on the shaft (assuming that the shaft is still installed?)? That would make it easier perhaps to apply new bedding compound (5200?) between the base and the hull? I presume that this is the larger main strut, rather than a smaller intermediate strut? Do you have any photos of the strut? And a couple of photos of the boat herself would be nice as well - I presume that she has a legendary flared Carolina bow?  

gonzo Senior Member

Stainless bolts below the waterline is a no-no. You should install either bronze or monel. What you are seeing is the typical crevice corrosion in stainless. 316 passivated stainless is an option, but the price is probably not worth it. Also, any scratch or even the friction from the nut may remove the passivated layer.  

Here is a link to pictures I’ve taken. iCloud Photo Sharing https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0cG4VTwGGlZOu9 I believe there is still bedding compound, that the strut is secure. Everything appears to be secure, just leaks a little.  

Seems all I have are pictures of all the broken parts. Ill get a picture of her up. Probably start a thread dedicated to the boat, The Grace. If I do go with Bronze or Monel bolts do I need to change the back plate that is currently stainless steel?  

Yes please re a photo or two of the boat as well - and a thread on here all about The Grace would be even better! You have a couple of S/S bolts there that are textbook corrosion examples - very impressive! It would definitely be a good idea to change the bolts (and nuts and washers) for bronze or monel (if you can find monel). If your S/S backing plates are still in good condition, you should be able to keep them - how thick are they? Re how there are two holes in the longitudinal stringer for accessing the nuts on the bolts - this is rather poor design. Does the top flange of each strut have six bolts in total, aligned 3 transversely and two longitudinally? I think that I would be inclined to grind away all the fairing around the top flanges of the struts, and live with the slight amount of extra resistance - this would make it much easier to re-bed the flanges, and easier for future routine inspections.  

6 bolts total, 3 on each side of the strut The backing plate is 1/2 stainless and with exception of a little surface rust seems in good condition. I’m trying to source Monel or bronze bolts, they are 1/2-14 5” long pan head. I was wondering about the forces and load the bolts have to carry. Guessing it isn’t much, the shaft forces are rotational and any movement would have to move the engine and transmission. Being worried that a bronze bolt would fail is probably unfounded?  

Re 5" x 1/2" bronze bolts, I tried Classic Marine in the UK, but they only have 4" x 1/2" hex-head bolts - https://shop.classicmarine.co.uk/fa...rs/bronze-bolts-nuts-washers-12-inch-unc.html Similarly McMaster Carr in the USA - McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/bronze-machine-screws/bronze-hex-head-screws/ Jamestown Distributors have 6" x 1/2" csk hd machine screws on their website at $24 each - but no 5", and they are currently out stock of the 6" screws. It would be worthwhile contacting them though? Jamestown Distributors https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/1276  

I’ve got new silicone bronze bolts, washers, and nuts. Other then 5200 and using TedGel should I be concerned about the stainless steel plate and bronze where they meet? Perhaps a thin fiber washer between the two or a maybe a wooden block?  

Where did you source the bolts from please? I wouldn't worry too much about the connection between the stainless steel and bronze, especially so if you use Tef Gel https://www.fisheriessupply.com/ultra-safety-systems-ultra-tef-gel-thread-anti-seize-lubricant or Duralac https://www.fisheriessupply.com/saddington-consultants-plus-duralac-anti-corrosion-jointing-compound on the bolts, along with 5200 for bedding.  

I’ve exposed the base of the strut and as always it looks like more work, exposed a void and not sure how bad it is yet. Had to stop and dump dust out of my eyes. Headed to pick up a full face respirator, this half mask and goggles ain’t cutting it.  

Bolts came from Paxton, local supply here in Virginia. I’m lucky to have a friend with an account. 1/2”x 5” bronze strut bolts for $26.90 each Paxton Company - Distributors of Marine Safety Equipment https://www.paxtonco.com/  

Figured out how to add pics to the post. After a few hours of chasing voided I’ve exposed a few problems. The strut appears properly bedded but water has been past the strut and into voids between the structural hull and the fairing materials. I believe they used wood and plywood so they didn’t have to apply 2” of fairing compound and this wood looks to have been exposed to saltwater.  

Impressive photos Aaron - they look like works of modern art! Except that the black / mouldy looking areas do look rather ominous. I think it is time to make a decision to do a 'proper' job - and that would probably involves removing the propellers, withdrawing the shafts (can you do this with the rudders in place?) and completely removing the struts. Clean up both areas (get rid of that old wood and other bedding materials) and then use proper materials (not wood!) as backing pads under the strut bases. I think that you ideally want to use something like Chockfast (or similar) to form the backing pads - Chockfast Products | High-performance epoxy grouting https://itwperformancepolymers.com/products/chockfast Others on here will have more experience than me with this product (I have none) and can advise you better. But it might be feasible to re-assemble each strut with the securing bolts, leaving a gap between the base and the hull, such that you still have pretty good alignment of the cutless bearing in the strut with the engine shaft line. Can you get hold of a laser to help line it up? Otherwise use a tight string - but a laser would be easier. If you can build a dam around three sides of the strut base, then it might be possible to pour liquid resin in to the aperture (between base and hull) from the 'up-hill' side to form the new backing / bedding pads? If this is not feasible, then it might be possible to just use say 3 bolts for securing each strut base (in a triangulated formation), and then pouring resin in through the other 3 bolt holes? This is just a wild suggestion, and I would welcome constructive criticism re improving this method. Be aware that you would still have to carefully re-align the engines at the end, as the struts will not be in the same positions as they were before (and they might not have been perfectly aligned before you started this repair anyway).  

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I’ve heard of Chokfast but at this point I think the strut and bedding compound are sound. I will investigate further, the bedding compound appears to be discolored but solid and undamaged. I will be sure to grind it just a little to ensure it hasn't been compromised. The water intrusion has caused damage to the fairing materials, a combination of plywood and other wood pieces surrounding the strut (blue on my drawing). It also looks like it has run between the hull and the fairing material, for how far I am not sure. I like the idea of a proper job, start removing fairing materials until I run out of damage and replace it all. This is my delima, like a thread on a sweater I feel like when I start removing the fairing materials I may end up in the bow without a sweater. It sounds like the plan is to dry it out like you describe with the chine work, clean it up a bit more and liberally inject epoxy mixed with Acetone (ill double check that, something that helps the epoxy wick into the wood?). After a few solid coats of epoxy, re-fair and we get to keep the sweater. It kills me because I will never know how far the damage went.  

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THE GULF COAST'S LARGEST BOAT SHOW

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The St. Petersburg Power and Sailboat Show, Presented by Progressive will take place January 23-26, 2025 at Duke Energy Center for the Arts Mahaffey Theater Yacht Basin and Albert Whitted Park in St. Petersburg, Florida. Sign up to receive updates about next year's show!

SEMINARS & CLINICS

Enjoy seminars on boating, fishing, and other marine-related topics, along with fan favorites like our kids fishing clinics with Captain Don Dingman from Hook the Future and on-water boat training courses with the Annapolis School of Seamanship and Progressive.

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Take advantage of the best hotel rates with no booking fees guaranteed and reserve your accommodations now with onPeak - the only official hotel provider for the show. Explore convenient hotel options with flexible change and cancellation policies.

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The St. Petersburg Power and Sailboat Show, Presented by Progressive will take place at Duke Energy Center for the Arts Mahaffey Theater Yacht Basin and Albert Whitted Park in St. Petersburg, FL.

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PAST SHOW HIGHLIGHTS

The St. Petersburg Power and Sailboat Show, Presented by Progressive is the largest boat show on the Gulf Coast!

Explore an impressive lineup of powerboats and sailboats displayed in-water and on-land, along with a 40,000 sq. ft. tent housing an extensive selection of marine equipment and accessories. Other show attractions include seminars, kids fishing clinics, and on-water boat training courses with the Annapolis School of Seamanship and Progressive.

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LATEST NEWS

RECORD-BREAKING ATTENDANCE IN ST. PETE

Billed as the largest boat show on the Gulf Coast, the 2023 St. Petersburg Power and Sailboat Show, Presented by Progressive, attracted a record-breaking crowd of marine enthusiasts to the city’s downtown waterfront...

SUPPORTING BOATERS HURRICANE RELIEF FUND

The 2023 St. Petersburg Power and Sailboat Show, Presented by Progressive, will  support the Boaters Helping Boaters Hurricane Relief Fund. Attendees can choose to donate when they purchase a ticket to the show...

ST. PETE BOAT SHOW RETURNS FOR YEAR 45

The Annual St. Petersburg Power and Sailboat Show, Presented by Progressive returns to downtown St. Pete January 19-22, 2023, celebrating 45 years of the boating lifestyle so many people enjoy. Attendees will find the most...

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Baltimore bridge collapse: What happened and what do we know about the ship?

WHAT HAPPENED IN BALTIMORE?

Why did the bridge collapse, are there any casualties, what do we know about the ship that was involved, what do we know about the bridge that collapsed.

HOW WILL THE BRIDGE COLLAPSE IMPACT THE BALTIMORE PORT?

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Lisa's journalism career spans two decades, and she currently serves as the Americas Day Editor for the Global News Desk. She played a pivotal role in tracking the COVID pandemic and leading initiatives in speed, headline writing and multimedia. She has worked closely with the finance and company news teams on major stories, such as the departures of Twitter CEO Jack Dorsey and Amazon’s Jeff Bezos and significant developments at Apple, Alphabet, Facebook and Tesla. Her dedication and hard work have been recognized with the 2010 Desk Editor of the Year award and a Journalist of the Year nomination in 2020. Lisa is passionate about visual and long-form storytelling. She holds a degree in both psychology and journalism from Penn State University.

Baltimore bridge collapse seen from above

Aerial images from the the scene after huge spans of the Francis Scott Key Bridge crumpled into the water after a container ship smashed into the four-lane bridge.

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What we know about the cargo ship that struck baltimore's key bridge.

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The container ship that crashed into the Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore early Tuesday was headed to Sri Lanka.

Synergy Marine Group — which owns and manages the ship, called the Dali — confirmed the vessel hit a pillar of the bridge at about 1:30 a.m. while in control of one or more pilots, who are local specialists who help navigate vessels safely into ports.

It said all 22 crew members, including the two pilots on board, were accounted for and there were no reports of any injuries.

The Dali was headed from Baltimore to Colombo, Sri Lanka, and flying under a Singapore flag, according to data from Marine Traffic. The container ship is about 985 feet long and about 157 feet wide, according to the website.

Statement from Synergy Marine Group

Synergy Marine Group released a statement, saying: "Owners and managers of the Singapore-flagged container ship 'DALI' (IMO 9697428) report that the vessel collided with one of the pillars of the Francis Scott Key Bridge, Baltimore whilst under pilotage with two pilots onboard, at approximately 01 30 local time on 26th March.

"All crew members, including the two pilots have been accounted for and there are no reports of any injuries. There has also been no pollution.

"Whilst the exact cause of the incident is yet to be determined, the 'DALI' has now mobilized its Qualified Individual Incident response service. The U.S. Coast Guard and local officials have been notified, and the owners and managers are fully cooperating with federal and state government agencies under an approved plan."

Statement from Maersk

Danish shipping giant Maersk said it had chartered the vessel, which was carrying its customers' cargo. No Maersk crew and personnel were on board.

Video below: Map tracks path of ship before crash

In a statement published on its website, Maersk said: "In the early hours of 26 March 2024, a vessel collided with the Francis Scott Key Bridge, resulting in damage to the structure. Information on the situation remains pending and we remain in close contact with officials in the area.

"We can confirm that the container vessel 'DALI,'  is owned by Grace Ocean, and operated by Synergy Group. It is time chartered by Maersk and is carrying Maersk customers' cargo. No Maersk crew and personnel were onboard the vessel.

"Due to the damage to the bridge and resulting debris, it will not be possible to reach the Helen Delich Bentley Port of Baltimore for the time being. In line with this, we are omitting Baltimore on all our services for the foreseeable future, until it is deemed safe for passage through this area.

Video below: Maryland transportation secretary responds to Key Bridge collapse

"For cargo already on water, we will omit the port, and will discharge cargo set for Baltimore, in nearby ports. From these ports, it will be possible to utilise landside transportation to reach final destination instead. Your local Maersk representative can assist in booking this.

"Please note that for cargo set to discharge in Baltimore, delays may occur, as they will need to discharge in other ports. We are keeping a close eye on the safety situation in the area and continuing to assess the viability of transportation through the area. We will inform you of any changes that may impact your cargo.

"We are deeply concerned by this incident and are closely monitoring the situation. We understand the potential impact this may have on your logistics operation, and will communicate to our customers once we have more details from authorities. Our teams are on hand to support with your planning, should you need any assistance.

"For more information on your cargo, please reach out to your local Maersk representative.

"Our teams are on hand to support with your planning, should you need any assistance."

Video below: Key Bridge last inspected in 2021, USDOT records show

The ship crashed into one of the bridge's supports, causing the structure to snap and buckle at several points and tumble into the water in a matter of seconds. The vessel caught fire, and thick, black smoke billowed out of it.

According to Federal Highway Administration records, the last inspection of the Key Bridge took place in May 2021 and the structure was found to be in fair condition. The FHA records show the steel truss bridge's deck condition was satisfactory, its superstructure condition was satisfactory and its substructure condition was satisfactory. No repair work was identified in the report.

The 1.6-mile bridge carried the Baltimore Beltway\Interstate 695 over the Patapsco River, which leads to the Port of Baltimore, a major hub for shipping on the East Coast. Opened in 1977, the bridge is named for the writer of "The Star-Spangled Banner."

Video below: 2 rescued so far, no indication crash was intentional

Yacht race to Havana resumes after 58 years, complete with Cuban crew

• Paul Guzzo Times staff

ST. PETERSBURG

There is a race within the race that marks the return this week of the St. Petersburg-Habana regatta.

It will determine who makes history by becoming the first Cuban-born captain in more than five decades to lead a boat from the United States to the island nation.

"We all want to be the first with a Cuban leader to finish," said Anthony Scaglione, 32, a Tampa native who serves on the crew of the 37-foot cruising yacht LaVie . "Hopefully, it is us."

The LaVie is captained by Martin Saavedra, 68, of Tampa, a native of Cuba who came to the United States at 12.

At least two other yachts are captained by Cuban natives — one living in Toronto and the other a Cuban citizen.

For this regatta and for the first time since the Cuban Revolution, the Cuban government is allowing a yacht from the island to participate in a U.S. sailing competition.

And a longtime Cuban law banning Cuban-born people from returning to the island by sea was recently loosened to accommodate U.S.-based commercial cruises to the island with passengers who include Cuban-born Americans.

"We are very excited," said Mario Perez, 55, the Cuban-born captain of the 40-foot cruising yacht The Tiger , who has lived in Toronto since 1992. "We can't believe we finally can do this."

The crew of the boat from Cuba, the Micara , didn't receive permission from its government to participate until Monday morning so it was not able to make it to St. Petersburg in time for the start of the race at 10 a.m. Tuesday.

They planned to join the regatta in Key West.

This means the Micara is not part of the official race, but it doesn't stop the boat from competing for bragging rights against The Tiger and LaVie.

The St. Petersburg-Habana Yacht Race ran from 1930 through 1959. It was canceled in 1960 with the deterioration of United States-Cuban relations.

Inspired by the move by President Barack Obama to reach out to Cuba, the St. Petersburg Yacht Club revived the race after a hiatus of 58 years.

It has returned bigger than ever.

At its peak, the original regatta had more than 30 competitors. This year's drew 81 yachts, 75 of them in the competition.

"It is amazing how much good can be accomplished when people work together," said Albert A. Fox Jr., founder of Tampa's Alliance for Responsible Cuba Policy Foundation, who for a year worked as a liaison between the St. Petersburg Yacht Club and the Cuban government.

The size of the competing boats is 30 to 120 feet, said Richard Winning, commodore of the St. Petersburg Yacht Club. There will be an overall champion plus trophies presented to the first to finish in each class: spinnaker, non-spinnaker, multi-hull and cruising.

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Some crews number as many as a dozen. Others are as small as three.

All but six boats have home ports in Florida, but the crews are made up of an estimated 550 sailors from all over the world — Canada, England, France, Germany, Spain, the Netherlands and South Africa among them.

"To be part of the revival of this race is pretty cool," said England's Henry Bomby, 26, who is part of the crew for the Fomo , a 40-foot spinnaker captained by St. Petersburg's Lloyd Thornburg. "I'm excited to be a part of history."

Seeing the island that was long difficult to visit for Americans was a primary reason others are participating in the regatta.

"This is a great opportunity to visit a nation I've never seen," said Tampa's Art Cupps, 50, captain of the 44-foot cruising yacht First Wind .

The yachts should all reach the finish at Marina Hemingway by Thursday.

Then on Saturday, most will take part in a 15-mile race to the historic Morro Castle that will include more Cuban boats.

St. Petersburg Mayor Rick Kriseman is leading a delegation flying to Havana to watch the second race and enjoy other regatta-related festivities.

Vicente Amor of Tampa travel agency Asc International booked airline tickets for 88 locals plus 136 rooms for them and sailors.

"Cubans from outside Cuba are reuniting with Cuba," said Commodore José Miguel Díaz Escrich of Marina Hemingway in Havana. "All the participants are part of an expression of love between the two countries."

Contact Paul Guzzo at [email protected]. Follow @PGuzzoTimes.

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What we know so far about Baltimore’s Francis Scott Key Bridge collapse

The Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore collapsed around 1:40 a.m. Eastern time Tuesday after being hit by a cargo ship, with large parts of the bridge falling into the Patapsco River.

The Baltimore Fire Department has labeled the incident a “mass casualty event.” Rescuers were searching for several people, and vehicles were detected in the water.

Here’s what we know so far.

Baltimore bridge collapse

A cargo ship crashed into Baltimore’s Francis Scott Key Bridge, which collapsed overnight. Follow live updates and see photos from the scene .

How it happened: The container ship lost power moments before colliding with the bridge, Maryland Gov. Wes Moore said. The Key Bridge was built in the 1970s and spans the Patapsco River. Rescue efforts remain underway as authorities search for 6 people unaccounted for. Read everything we know so far about the bridge collapse .

• Live updates: Baltimore Key Bridge collapses; search continues for 6 unaccounted for 17 minutes ago Live updates: Baltimore Key Bridge collapses; search continues for 6 unaccounted for 17 minutes ago
• What we know so far about Baltimore’s Francis Scott Key Bridge collapse 2 hours ago What we know so far about Baltimore’s Francis Scott Key Bridge collapse 2 hours ago
• In photos: Baltimore’s Key Bridge collapses after container ship collision Earlier today In photos: Baltimore’s Key Bridge collapses after container ship collision Earlier today

Photos, video show collapse of Baltimore's Francis Scott Key Bridge after cargo ship collision

The Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore, Maryland collapsed Tuesday into the Patapsco River after it was struck by a large cargo ship.

The bridge's collapse has prompted huge emergency response, with the Baltimore City Fire Department describing the collapse as a mass-casualty incident, and rescue crews searching for seven people in the river. Maryland Gov. Wes Moore has declared a state of emergency.

Baltimore  Mayor Brendon Scott  said on X that he was aware of the incident and was en route to the bridge. "Emergency personnel are on scene, and efforts are underway," he said.

The 1.6 mile, 4-lane bridge named for the author of the "Star-Spangled Banner," was the second-longest continuous-truss bridge span in the United States and third in the world.

Follow here for live updates → Baltimore's Key Bridge collapses after ship collision; rescue effort underway

Photos show collapsed Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore

Videos show francis scott key bridge's collapse.

The bridge's collapse, which came after it was struck by a container ship, was distributed on social media.

What did the Francis Scott Key Bridge look like before it was hit?

Contributing: Charles Ventura, Thao Nguyen and Susan Miller, USA TODAY .

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Removing strut....

• Thread starter NYSail
• Start date Jul 29, 2016
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

hello all...... So I have a slight weep from my strut. Very slight and see no reason to do now, however I think as part of my winter projects I would like to remove and rebed.... This is a 30 year old boat and with all the vibration and stress I am pretty impressed about its strength. I figure no big deal as long as I remove, clean, rebed and mount in same spot...... Will realign while at it and maybe even change the cutless. Anything I'm missing? Thanks Greg  

I'm from the camp that doesn't think gluing the strut to the boat is a good idea. Firstly, if stuck on, it is a real bear to get off again if necessary. Second, you want the strut to align perfectly and it needs a good firm registration base to something just as hard at the strut (the hull). Putting sealant between the hull and the base of the strut results in a non stable mount (the sealant is flexible) and potential mis-alignment (the sealant creates a separation from the hull). The only thing that needs to be sealed is the penetration of the screws through the hull. I used Sikaflex 292 on the bolts of mine. This was after dry fitting the strut and double checking that the alignment was good. If it is not, then you can wrap the strut with Saran Wrap and apply epoxy to the hull. Push the strut into it to achieve proper alignment and let it cure. Since the strut is wrapped with Saran Wrap it won't stick. After the epoxy cures, re drill the holes using the strut as a template. Seal the holes as above.  

Very nice.... Thanks for the tip.  

NYSail said: hello all...... Anything I'm missing? Thanks Greg Click to expand

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