sailing yacht keel

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Parts of a Sailboat – The Keel

By: Zeke Quezada, ASA Learn To Sail , Sailboats

The keel is a fixed appendage on the bottom of the hull that provides the sideways resistance needed to counter the force of the wind on the sails. The keel also carries ballast, usually iron or lead, the weight of which counteracts the force of the wind that causes a sailboat to heel, or lean over. On a modern boat, the keel is shaped in the form of an airfoil wing to generate lift, which helps it sail closer to the wind.

A keelboat is generally larger than 20 feet and can be as large as a megayacht at 200 feet. A boat smaller than 20 feet without a keel is referred to as a dinghy. A dinghy has neither a keel nor a ballast. To resist sideways movement it has a centerboard or a daggerboard that can be lowered or raised as needed.

Will This Sailboat Capsize?

Unlike a dinghy, a keelboat won’t capsize. In a strong wind, it may heel a long way over, but the ballast in its keel is designed to keep it from capsizing. In a dinghy, to resist heeling you would use live ballast – the crew sitting out on the edge of the boat to counter the effect of the wind.

Smaller keelboats are often used in sailing instruction as these boats are small and responsive enough to provide the new sailor with the feel and feedback important when learning, but big and stable enough to carry an instructor and students in comfort.

The Art of Sailing

• Understanding Points of Sail The direction of the wind dictates the direction a sailboat can sail. The Points of Sail describe the range of courses a sailboat can and cannot travel.
• Understanding the Sails The sail is the driving force of the boat. A sailboat is only as good as its sails when you consider that capturing the wind’s energy is the premise behind what sailors do to propel their boats in a forward direction.
• Understanding the Wind A sailor’s world revolves around the wind and staying aware of the wind’s direction is crucial. Your ability to accurately sense changes in the wind, its speed and its direction will improve as you learn.

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What are the pros and cons of different keels?

We all sail for different reasons, in different cruising grounds and use our yachts differently, so it makes sense that there is no one-size-fits-all keel design. At Sirius, however, we like to make the perfect yacht for each individual owner. One of the ways we serve our customers is our choice of keels – at least six different options for each model. It’s one of the ways we stand out – or should that be stand up?

We offer three styles of keel: fin, twin and lifting swing keel. All of our keels excel in many ways, but every design does have drawbacks – this is not unique to Sirius, but the keel affects the way you use the boat, so it’s important to choose the right one for you.

These are the keels we currently offer:

Standard Fin (310DS, 35DS, 40DS) Performance Fin (310DS, 35DS, 40DS) Medium Fin (310DS, 35DS, 40DS) Shallow Fin (310DS) Shallow Twin (310DS, 35DS, 40DS) Performance Twin (35DS, 40DS) Lifting Swing Keel (310DS, 35DS, 40DS)

Does the choice of keel compromise ocean capability?

For Sirius yachts, absolutely not. It’s important to realise that choosing one keel style over the other does not affect the yacht’s righting moment or compromise its ocean-going capabilities at all!

Whichever keel you choose, deep or shallow, twin or fin, they all have the same stability. This is achieved by putting more weight in the bulbs of the shallower keels as the shorter lever can be balanced with higher weight. Most of the blue water cruising and circumnavigations in Sirius Yachts have been made with twin-keel or reduced/shallow fin keel yachts.

Does keel choice affect performance?

As our shallow keels are heavier the weight dampens the yachts’ motion at sea, but as a downside, you have more weight to move with sails or engine. Once you’re moving there isn’t a difference but when tacking or gybing, or when not steered well, you will lose a bit in sailing performance. The shallower draught yachts also lose a few degrees to windward compared to their deeper keeled sisters, but they are still good all-round performers. Our customers with racing backgrounds always try to go for a keel as deep and light as their sailing area permits, either with a single or twin keel.

Pros and cons of fin keels

The standard keel on our yachts is a fin keel. Most sailing boats today use a fin keel because it gives a good all-round performance on all points of sail. By keeping the ballast lower it gives the most comfortable motion. The main downsides are that the draught (the depth of water required to stay afloat) is the greatest, and it’s very important to avoid running aground on a falling tide. Fin keel boats cannot dry out without additional support, either from a harbour wall or by fitting a pair of beaching legs. Some fin keel yachts are not built strongly enough to stand on their keels when out of the water, so they can’t dry out alongside a harbour wall and they need to be kept in a special cradle when stored ashore to avoid the risk of the hull deforming under its own weight. By contrast, all Sirius yachts can stand on their keels for any length of time with no problem at all.

We offer four types of fin keel. The standard fin is available on the 310DS, 35DS and 40DS and is fully cast-iron. It offers the best value, good performance, and excellent responsiveness. It is the deepest of our fixed-keel options, so if you want less draught you may want to look at our other fin keels.

We also offer a performance fin keel for all our models. This uses a cast iron fin with a lead bulb at the tip (bottom). The structural strength of cast iron means the fin is the slimmest profile, but lead is denser than iron so the same volume of lead will weigh around 1.4 times more than cast iron, giving more righting moment. The heavier, softer lead down low has less volume in the bulb so achieves a slimmer profile with less drag and therefore better performance.

A lead bulb is also safer if it hits something. Lead can absorb 60% of the energy in flexing and deformation so that only 40% of the force will be transferred to the laminated structure of the keel reinforcement. A lead bulb is very forgiving and easy to reshape and will not start to rust where the coating is damaged. We can use less volume of lead than iron, and achieve better stability than a wholly cast-iron keel. We can also reduce the depth of the keel and retain excellent stability. However, lead is more expensive than cast iron and the bulb must be attached very securely to the iron fin, so this option does cost more.

If you want less draught, we also offer a medium fin. This reduces the draught of the 310DS and 35DS by around 40cm/1ft 4in and 55cm/1ft 9in on the 40DS. Like the performance fin, it uses a cast iron fin with a lead bulb. To retain the keel’s grip in the water it has to have a longer chord (the distance from fore to aft). While this gives the boat better directional stability, it does make her a little less responsive and a little slower to manoeuvre.

On our 310DS, we offer a shallow fin option – a special version for very shallow cruising grounds. This fin keel offers the least draught of any of our fixed keel options at 1.15m/3ft 9in and draws 10cm/4in less than the twin keel version. The keel has a significantly longer chord (2.24m/7ft 4in compared to 0.7m/2ft 3in of the standard keel) so she has the reassuring directional stability of a long-keeled yacht but with better manoeuvrability.

Pros and cons of twin keels

Our twin keels are the most popular option. About 70-80% of all Sirius Yachts are delivered with them – and on the 40 DS it’s 90%. Some folk still believe there is a big performance penalty with twin keels. In the past this used to be true but it’s no longer the case with modern twin keel designs, from Sirius at least. We have conducted many two-boat comparison tests, often battling for hours, by ourselves, with owners, and for sailing magazines and we have found that there may only be one or two boat lengths of difference at the end of a long windward leg, if at all. At the end of many of these comparison tests, the crews could not point out which of the boats had the twin keel.

If you cruise tidal areas, twin keels will reward you time and time again. Not only do they give you a shallower draught than the typical fin keel, they also give you the ability to dry the yacht out, whether that’s for a motion-free night’s sleep, to explore cruising grounds others cannot reach, or just for cheaper mooring and maintenance costs.

We offer two styles of twin keels; performance and shallow draught. Both options have a cast iron fin with a lead bulb. The performance keels have a deeper draught and a thinner chord so they act and feel a bit livelier when sailing and manoeuvring. The shorter keels have a longer chord, but give you the ability to navigate shallower areas. Like all keel designs, twin keels do have some downsides. They are more expensive than fin keels, and when you’re sailing fast in choppy seas at a steep angle of heel, you can occasionally get a slapping sound when an air pocket is caught and pressed out under the windward fin. Lastly, we’ve yet to meet an owner who enjoys antifouling between the keels. Thankfully it only has to be done once a year and with twin keels you might get away with doing it less frequently. A twin keel yacht can be kept on a drying mooring, where fouling is reduced because the hull spends more time out of the water. And when you’re off cruising it’s easy to give the bottom a quick scrub while the yacht is dried out.

Our yachts will happily sit on their keels on a hard surface, like a drying grid, or for winter storage but on softer surfaces we use the rudder for additional support. The rudders on our twin keel yachts are specially reinforced for this: we use a Delrin sheave to take the weight of the hull and the tip of the rudder has a wide, foil-like foot to spread the weight.

A lifting swing keel

We are one of a few manufacturers to offer a lifting swing keel. There’s a lot of confusion with the term ‘lifting keel’, it seems to encompass all yachts that have centreboards, variable draught, lift-keels or swing keels. To us, a lifting keel boat should have all the ballasted weight of the boat in the keel, and that keel needs to be retracted into the hull.

Technically, a lifting keel is a keel that can be lifted or lowered and gives the boat the ability to dry out when the tide goes out. A lift-keel is a ballasted keel that raises and lowers vertically. A swing keel has a ballasted fin that has a single pivot point and the keel swings up into the boat. There are other variants of design, for example some have a lifting keel to reduce the draught of the vessel but they cannot dry out on it, others have a ballasted keel and ballasted grounding plate. All these examples have a keel that does two things: keep the boat upright and stop her sliding sideways. Our swing keel is designed with a NACA profile to give the most efficient performance.

Centreboard yachts have a centreplate to provide grip in the water and reduce leeway. The plate may carry only 15-20% of the ballast but the rest of the yacht’s ballast is within the hull and/or in the grounding plate. This is called an “integral keel” and is more common as it’s less complicated to build. The lower a yacht’s ballast is located, the better her stability, the more comfortable her motion and the better she stands up to her sail area. The most efficient place for the ballast is as low down on the deepest keel possible – this is why race boats have deep skinny keels with large torpedo-shaped bulbs on the bottom, but they don’t make practical cruising sailboats.

Our keel designs have more weight in the tip (bottom) – using a bulb on the fin and twin keel design and flaring the lower sections on our lifting swing keel yachts. You don’t have this with centreboard and integral keel yachts.

It might be surprising, but a lot of owners come to us thinking that a lifting swing keel is the best option for them. Sometimes it is, but about 98% of customers who approach us because we offer swing keels end up sailing away on a twin-keel Sirius.

The downsides of a lifting keel

A lifting swing keel does give you more cruising options. It will lift should you run into something and, of course, it gives you the shallowest draught. But that difference is only 40-50cm (1ft 4in to 1ft 8in) less draught than our shallow twin keel option. The lifting keel increases the complexity of the build and the final cost of the yacht; it also sometimes limits the internal layout and engine drive options, and you need to have twin rudders too. Twin rudders make the boat less manoeuvrable in a marina – you can opt for a third central rudder which does improve the handling, but again comes at an extra cost.

On the lifting swing keel, 40 and 310 owners are restricted to the use of a shaft drive, which is less efficient and you have to accept a bit more noise and vibration. When drying out, the drive is more vulnerable to damage, whereas it’s totally clear when taking the ground on twin keels. With twin keels, you also do not have to worry about something sticking out of the beach or stones lying around because the hull is high above the ground. With the hull up high, you do not have to dig a hole in the sand and slide down on your stomach to check or change your anodes as you would on a swing keel.

Sailors who are attracted to the idea of a lifting swing keel should carefully consider the pros and cons to compromise the least. When owners understand the repercussions of choosing a lifting keel yacht, many of them feel it restricts their options too much. They could have a lifting keel or they can sail with twin keels, dry out, have better close-quarters handling and save money in the process. Unless you need the shallowest possible draught – 0.75m (2ft 5in) on the 310DS, 0.9m (2ft 11in) on the 35DS or 0.95m (3ft 1in) on the 40DS – a twin keel might well be a better option.

How are the keels attached?

The design of the keel is important but the way they are attached is just as important, if not more so. All of our fixed keels are through-bolted. Every keel has a wide flange at the root (top) of the keel and the flange sits into a reinforced recess in the hull. The flange and the recess work together to spread the loads of the keel/s into the yacht’s hull. The keels are bonded and bolted to the hull. We use up to twelve 20mm and 24mm bolts (per keel) and these go through rolled stainless steel backing plates inside the hull to spread the bolt loads evenly into the fully laminated keel grid which goes all the way up to the chainplates and also carries the mast support.

For our lifting swing keel, we laminate a substantial keel box as part of the hull to accept the keel and the hydraulic mechanism needed to retract the keel into the hull. Unlike most other boatbuilders we don’t use a grounding plate to take the weight of the yacht, our yachts sit on the length of the leading edge of the keel. Integral keels with the majority of the ballast in the grounding plates move the ballast (weight) from low down in the keel to inside the hull. This negatively affects the stability as the more weight you have lower down, the better.

We also don’t like grounding plates because they bring the hull in contact with the ground. By leaving 10-15 cm (4-6in) of the keel out of the hull when it’s retracted, most of the time the hull is kept clear of the beach and anything that could damage it.

The problem with too much form stability

With only 15-12% of their ballast in the centreboard, most lifting-keel yachts cannot rely on keel weight for stability so their hulls need to be designed with extra form stability instead. This means the hull sections have to be much wider and flatter. A flat-bottomed hull is not what you want for a comfortable ocean cruising yacht; it isn’t sea-kindly or easy to steer in waves and gusty winds conditions. We don’t make that compromise at Sirius. With all the ballast in the swinging part of our swing keel design, we can use the same seaworthy, ocean-capable hull shape designed for our yachts with fixed keels.

If you don’t know which keel would be best for your Sirius, contact us to discuss the type of sailing you intend to do, where you want to sail and what your cruising aspirations are.

General Manager – Torsten Schmidt SIRIUS-WERFT GmbH Ascheberger Straße 68 24306 Plön/Holstein

Fax: 0049 – 4522 – 744 61-29

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• Sailboat Reviews

A Look at Sailboat Design: Fin Keels vs. Full Keels

Details like keel design count when considering cruising sailboats..

Photos by Ralph Naranjo

When a keel tears away from a sailboats hull, it makes the loss of a rig or rudder seem like a minor inconvenience. History shows that its an uncommon occurrence, but because we now annually hear of such incidents, weve decided to take a closer look at keels and see what keeps the ballast where it belongs.

The International Sailing Federation (ISAF) Offshore Special Regulations devotes pages to helping sailors prevent and respond to a crew overboard incident. There is nothing about how to handle the loss of a keel or ballast bulb. Some might say this is because such occurrences are so infrequent, while others note that, if youre still upright once the ballast breaks off theres not much you can do other than blow the sheets, douse the sails as quickly as possible and attempt to stop any leaks.

When solo sailor Mike Plants Open 60 Coyote lost her lead bulb in 1992, Mike was lost at sea. Other adventure-sailors have survived near instantaneous capsize precipitated by keel loss. In 2003, round-the-world racer Tim Kent and his crew capsized when Everest Horizontal lost its ballast on the way back from Bermuda. US Sailing Safety at Sea Committee Chairman Chuck Hawley was aboard the racing sloop Charlie, on the way back from Hawaii, when a loud groaning sound led to a deep heel as the lead peeled away from the keel bolts and ballast headed straight to the bottom. This encounter at least had a happy ending thanks to the crews quick actions to douse sail. Apparently the keel had been cast with too little antimony (an additive that causes lead to become a harder alloy). The point here is that keeping the keel attached is as important as keeping the crew safely on board. And for the offshore monohull sailor, preventing a keel loss, like preventing crew overboard, requires some informed forethought.

A ballast keel on a sailboat is a classic example of potential energy poised in a balancing act. The buoyancy of the hull itself offsets the effect of thousands of pounds of lead or iron. At rest, gravitys attraction for the dense material strains against the buoyancy of the hull, and the adjacent garboard region is continuously in tension. Few sailors spend much time contemplating how keel bolts corrode and what cycle-loading does to the resin matrix comprising the garboard region just above the ballast. What is apparent, is that the attachment material, whether it be wood, metal or fiber reinforced plastic (FRP), must be able to support a mass of metal weighing as much as a small truck-and do so day in and day out for decades.

Underway, every tack causes the rig and sailplan to try to lever this ballast package free from the hull. And when the helmsman starts daydreaming about lobster for dinner and wanders off course onto a granite ledge Down East, the keel designed to handle sailing loads takes it on the chin. Its easy to see why experienced designers and builders lose sleep over their decisions about keel shape, structure, and what kind of safety factor should be built into the structure.

Its surprising to discover that with better materials and computer-aided design, we still hear about incidents such as the Rambler capsize in the 2011 Fastnet Race (PS, May 2012). Just as significant is a spate of smaller race boat keel-ectomies that have caused ISAF to send out a cautionary note to sailors around the world, and introduce new structural standards for race boats. Keeping the ballast attached to the boat involves an awareness of a chain-like set of failure points. And one of the most difficult decisions each designer must make is how to marry foil efficiency with a structural safety margin that covers the boats intended usage and the unintended use of the keel as a depth sounding device.

For decades, engineers and naval architects have had to contend with some racing sailors Icarus-like quest-a trend that prioritizes shedding weight and making the keel foil a long, thin appendage with a high-aspect ratio. Though not quite a flight toward the sun with wings made of wax and feathers, some race-boat scan’tlings walk a fine line between lightweight and structural failure. The challenge lies in attaching a lead bulb on a high-tensile steel foil to a lightweight, high-modulus, FRP hull. Interconnecting the dense metallic ballast to the lower-density foam/fiberglass hull structure is a true engineering puzzle. Part of the challenge lies in the dissipation of point loads (confined to a relatively small area) and how to handle the resulting stress risers. A stress riser is the point at which theres an abrupt change in a materials flexibility, such as where a stiff, fin keel meets the more elastic hull bottom. In FRP composites like those found in a balsa-cored hull, stress risers are a likely place for delamination to occur. Over time, these can result in the failure of the FRP composite.

The see-saw effect of the keel counteracting a vessels righting moment is a mathematically predictable energy transfer. Even the effect of groundings such as those that turn hull speed into a dead stop can be quantified. But its the cumulative effect of fatigue (localized structural damage caused by cyclical loading) and corrosion that are harder to pin down.

The term allision refers to hitting a fixed object such as a granite ledge or coral reef. Naval architects analyze the energy transfer and evaluate the stress and strain characteristics that occur. The recognition that the keel-to-hull connection must endure even more punishment than is doled out in heavy-weather sailing episodes is at the heart of how structural specs are devised.

Designers also must consider the jack-hammer-like pounding of a keel on a reef in surf, and realize that there are limits to the abuse a keel and hull can endure. With this in mind, its reasonable to assume that sailboat keels should be built to handle sailing induced loads for decades. It is the extra safety factor built into the boat that defines what happens when the sandbar is a rock pile.

What is harder to anticipate are the unusual encounters that can inflict serious damage to the keel connection. Take, for example, what happens when a sailboats deep fin keel is wedged in a rocky cleft and a good Samaritan with a big powerboat attempts to pivot the sailboat using a line attached to the bow. The distance from the keels vertical centerline to the stem may be 20 feet or more, and with a couple of thousand pounds of bollard pull, the 20-foot lever arm creates a rotary force that can spike to 40,000 foot-pounds or more. This level of torque goes well beyond what most designers and builders model as sailing loads, and its likely to seriously damage the boat.

In plain low-tech talk, extreme fin keels provide a valuable performance edge, but they come with their own set of downsides that every owner needs to be aware of. In essence, the more radical the keel shape, the better the crew must navigate.

A couple of decades ago, PS Technical Editor Ralph Naranjo ran a boatyard and had a client who liked to cut the corners during Block Island Race Week. His first spinnaker reach into a granite boulder stopped the boat and shoved the companionway ladder upward six inches. This underscored how an allision that causes the keel to stop abruptly transfers a shock wave through the entire hull. The resulting compression cracked several transverse members in the New York 40 and damaged the core in the canoe body near the garboard.

The FRP repairs had to be tapered and all delamination problems resolved. The moderate-aspect-ratio lead fin keel absorbed a good deal of the blunt trauma. Judging from the cannonball-size dent on the leading edge of the lead keel, it was clear that the impact was significant. The dent offered grim proof of the advantage of having soft lead instead of steel as keel ballast. New floor frames were added, the broken transverse members were replaced, and the boat was off and sailing.

The next season, the boat had another Block Island encounter, and only because the Petersen-designed New York 40 was a pretty ruggedly built boat was a second repair even considered. This time, an equally violent keel-to-hull trauma came from an on-the-wind encounter with a different rock. The extent of the delamination was greater than it had been in the first go round, and more extensive core removal and repair was required. The keel was dropped in order to check the bolts and the garboard. With the bilge fully opened for the FRP repair work, the repair crew made a pattern of the canoe body dead rise and fore and aft contour. As the glass work was being completed, they fabricated a stainless-steel grid that would spread keel loads fore and aft as well as athwartship. The new grid reinforced the keel attachment and returned the sloop to the race course.

Afterward, Naranjo and the owner discussed the details of the repair, including the possibility of hidden, widespread damage from the two groundings. These included the dynamic loads imposed upon the chainplates and rigging, the likelihood of hidden resin-cracking, and potential for more delamination and core shear linked to the torque induced by the accident. In short, any serious allision causes overt and hard-to-detect damage far from the actual impact zone, and these can lead to more problems down the road. When buying a used boat, look for a good pedigree, but also look for signs of previous blunt-force trauma. A good surveyor will be skilled in such structural forensics, and he or she will do more than comment on the gelcoat shine.

In the early days of wooden ships and iron men, a lack of dense metal ballast put less point-loading in the garboard region of the hull. Bilges free of cargo were filled with rocks or tighter-fitting granite blocks cut for more compact stacking. The principal of ballasting a vessel was to lower her center of gravity (CG) and create both an increase in the righting arm and a greater righting moment to offset the heeling moment created by the rig and sail plan. The keel also helped lessen leeway and would evolve into an appendage that added lift.

Movable ballast had a few downsides, not the least of which was its propensity to move in the wrong direction at the very worst moment. Even small boat sailors have found out what can happen to unsecured pigs of lead ballast when the boat heels far enough over for gravity to overcome friction. Whether stones, lead, movable water ballast, or a can’ting keel are used to augment the boats righting moment, a sailor must anticipate the worst-case scenario. This is when the weight ends up on the leeward side of the boat and a bad situation can turn into a real catastrophe. Fixing or locking ballast in place, controlling the volume of water put in ballast tanks, and limiting the can’ting keels range are sensible compromises.

Internal ballast, the ballast inside a keel envelope thats contiguous with the hull, is still seen in many new boats. Island Packet is an example of a builder has stuck with this traditional approach of securing ballast without using keel bolts. Its a sensible design for shoal-draft cruisers, and the upsides are numerous. These high-volume, long-range cruisers arent encumbered by the demands prioritized by light displacement, performance-oriented sailors. Instead, Island Packets combine a rugged laminate and a long-footed, shallow-draft keel. This may not place the lead or iron ballast as deep as the tip of a fin keel, but it does keep the all-important CG low enough to deliver a powerful righting moment along with shoal draft.

In order to deliver the high angle of vanishing stability (AVS) also known as limit of positive stability (LPS), designer Bob Johnson puts what amounts to an internal bulb in the very lowest point in the boat. This long slug of iron or lead (depending on the model) is then covered by Portland cement, locking it in the Island Packets monocoque structure. The result is a contiguous FRP structure spreading keel loads efficiently over a considerable amount of hull skin. Keel bolts and the infamous garboard seam are completely eliminated. This approach to sailboat keel design dates back to the Rhodes Bounty II and other prototypes in the production world of sailboats. Now over 50 years old, many of these boats continue to have a tenacious grasp on the lead or iron that they hold.

Encapsulated iron ballast is much less desirable than encapsulated lead, and its sad to see builders skimp on this. Iron, or even worse steel, has been used in many Far Eastern encapsulated keels. It works as long as water and the resulting oxidation havent caused expansion and cracking of the seal. Lead is also denser than ferrous metal, and therefore, the same amount of ballast will have a smaller volume and create less drag.

Encapsulated ballast starts to be less appealing as keels become more fin-like and high-aspect ratio. The reason for this is that the geometry of the support changes, focusing more load on less area of the hull. As hull shapes evolved into canoe underbodies with hard turns in the bilge, and fin-like keels became thinner, deeper, and with shorter chord measurements (thickness), the concept of encapsulated keel became impractical. The Cal 40, Ericson 39, Pearson 365, and a long list of similar genre boats signified the end of an era when performance racer/cruisers would be built with encapsulated ballast.

External Ballast

Performance-oriented sailors and race-boat designers quickly latched on to hull shapes marked by deep-draft, foil-shaped, high-aspect ratio fin keels. From the late 60s to whats currently glowing on CAD screens in designer offices around the world, keels have grown deeper and shorter in chord length, and bulb or anvil-like tips have grown more and more common.

The design development was sound, lift was enhanced, and deeper-not longer-became the answer to getting to windward faster. The challenge was not only in designing an efficient shape, it lay in creating an attachment means that minimized foil flex and twist, retained the low drag coefficient, and still had the ability to withstand an occasional, albeit modest, grounding.

During this same period, marine surveyors and boatyard techs began to see moderate groundings result in major structural problems. The classic example was the allision that produced a moderate dent in the lead at the leading edge of the keel tip. In many cases, further inspection revealed cracks radiating outward from a knot meter or depth sounder mistakenly placed just ahead of the keel. An even closer look often revealed grid damage or a cracked bulkhead just aft of the last keel bolt. Like the New York 40 mentioned earlier, this was a result of a shock wave radiating through the hull structure. As we learned in Mrs. McCrearys science class, Bodies in motion tend to stay in motion, unless acted on by an equal and opposite force. Fin keel sailboats encountering abrupt energy transfers,tend to endure more damage than their long-keel counterparts.

A forensic look at the Achilles heel of external ballast highlights a few pitfalls. First the good news: Lead absorbs impact well, consuming much of the imparted energy through deformation. However, the translation of the remaining energy from the metal keel foil and keelbolts into an FRP hull is where we often find stress risers, and point loading linked to material and hull shape changes. The near right-angle interface between a modern sailboats canoe body and its deep fin keel is a classic load-path hotspot. In the old days, fiberglass techs spoke of oil-canning or the dimpling of a large section of the garboard as tacks were swapped.

Today Naval Architects use Finite Element Analysis (FEA) to better engineer hull structure. Colorized graphics pinpoint load concentration, glowing bright red in the region where the keel joins the hull, the epicenter of the oil-canning. A common solution to coping with this high-load focal point, is to eliminate core in the region and to gradually increase the unit schedule (layers of FRP), or to add an internal FRP grid. Maximum thickness of a keel stub is located where the keelbolts penetrate the stub. In this region, the solid glass thickness is often equal to the dimension of the keel bolt diameter or even greater.

Laminate thickness at the keel bolts is only part of the equation. Just as important is how the transition to the general hull laminate transpires. A bullet-proof keel stub that immediately transitions into a core hull comprising two units of laminate on each side of the panel creates whats equivalent to a tear-on-the-dotted-line weakness. Transitions that involve sharp angles and marked differences in panel strength require a well-reinforced taper that spreads loads gradually rather than abruptly.

Occasionally, we see massive metal frameworks used in the bilge as support for keel bolts; these structures need to be carefully engineered to not create the same hard spot fracture points. When carefully tapered in order to gradually introduce more flex, the problem is abated, as it was in the repair of the New York 40 mentioned earlier. The stainless-steel grid built to support the keel loads incorporated a gradual decrease in stiffness to the framework. The keel was carefully mated to the underside of this grid to ensure full contact (See Keel Bolt Repair Options, online). As a result, the crew relieved the hard spots at the end points and made the transition to the more flexible FRP hull less dramatic.

For cruisers, the take-away lesson is that extra reinforcement, a long garboard keel-to-hull interface, and internal transverse and longitudinal reinforcement really do pay off. Keep in mind that the extra weight this entails is all below the center of gravity and contributes to the secondary righting moment as well as keeping the water out.

This is a big departure from the way many modern production boats are built. They carry a skimpy ballast ratio of 30 percent or less, have less structure to support the keel and are not designed to handle unintended cruising consequences. There are exceptions, and its worth looking at the keel design and structure of the Navy 44 Mark II and the USCG Leadership 44 (see PS, August 2012). These boats utilize external ballast and are examples of rugged keel attachment. They have a relatively long keel-to-stub garboard junction, the laminate scan’tling meets American Bureau of Shipping recommendations, and both utilize an overabundance of 316 stainless-steel keel bolts and an FRP grid to keep the keel where it belongs.

There are many reasons why were seeing more keel problems today. On one hand, light, fast, race-boat design pushes the envelope, and thats probably OK. But when mainstream racer/cruisers start to suffer from lead loss, too much of one good thing (high-aspect ratio) and too little of another good thing (reinforcement) can begin creeping into design and construction.

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Keel types and how they affect performance

• Peter Poland
• June 19, 2023

Peter Poland looks at the history of keel design and how the different types affect performance

The Twister is a well-proven example of a generation of production yachts with ‘cutaway’ full keels and keel-hung rudders. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Having been a boatbuilder for around 30 years until the very early ‘noughties’, I’ve already witnessed – and even taken part in – a lot of changes in the world of yacht design and building.

Yacht design originally evolved as traditional workboats developed into leisure craft.

In his History of Yachting , Douglas Phillips-Birt writes that the Dutch, who gave the name ‘yacht’ to the world, were probably the first to use commercial craft for pleasure in the 16th century.

They created the first yacht harbour in Amsterdam in the 17th century.

When the schooner America visited the UK in 1851 and raced around the Isle of Wight, this led to the America’s Cup and the resulting merry-go-round of race-yacht design that continues to this day.

The Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 35 offers three different fin keel configurations with different draughts plus a lifting keel version with a centreplate housed in a shallow winged keel stub. Credit: David Harding

The creation of what is now the Royal Yachting Association ( RYA ) in 1875 led to the introduction of handicap rules, establishing the sport in Britain.

These rating rules – and their numerous successors down the ages – have helped determine the evolution of yacht design and keel shapes.

Many early yachts were closely based on workboats, commercial cargo carriers or even privateers and naval vessels.

Initially, the ballast was carried in a long keel and the bilges .

New racing rules of the day taught designers to seek and tweak performance-enhancing features.

Maybe racing did not always improve the breed, but it certainly kept it moving ahead.

Artwork inspired by Ted Brewer’s illustration of keel types (excluding centreplate or lifting keels)

The late, great designer David Thomas believed that fishing boats, pilot cutters and oyster smacks had a large influence on the sport of sailing.

Each type of workboat was built to fulfil a specific purpose. And many had to be sailed short-handed while carrying heavy cargoes.

So they needed to combine form and function, sail well and be able to cope with heavy weather.

Proof of the versatility of working boat designs was provided by Peter Pye and his wife, Anne.

They bought a 30ft Polperro gaff-rigged fishing boat (built by Ferris of Looe in 1896) for £25 in the 1930s.

Having converted her to a sea-going cutter, and renamed her Moonraker of Fowey , they sailed the world for 20 years.

It proves how the simplest working boat design can cross oceans and fulfil dreams.

Racing influence on keel types and design

Most early yacht designs were schooners, but during the latter half of the 19th century the gaff cutter rig started to dominate the scene.

Many notable yachts were built at that time and the most important racing design was probably the yawl Jullanar (1875).

Designed and built by the agricultural engineer EH Bentall, she had, in his own words, “the longest waterline, the smallest frictional surface, and the shortest keel”.

She proved to be extremely fast and in her first season won every race she entered. Jullanar became the forerunner of such famous designs as GL Watson’s Thistle (1887), Britannia (1893), and Valkyrie II and Valkyrie III , both of which challenged for the America’s Cup during the 1890s.

Compare the She 36’s graceful overhangs with the vertical stems and sterns of most modern cruiser/racers

In the USA, Nat Herreshoff experimented with hull forms for racing yachts and produced the ground-breaking Gloriana in 1890.

She was a small boat for the times, with a waterline length of 46ft. Her hull form was very different to anything yet seen in the USA.

With long overhangs at bow and stern, her forefoot was so cut away that the entry at the bow produced a near-straight line from the stem to the keel.

It was a revolutionary design, and nothing at the time could touch her on the racecourse.

Many French models, such as this Beneteau, have opted for substantial pivoting keels. Credit: Peter Poland

Herreshoff wrote: “Above the waterline everything on Gloriana was pared down in size and weight… and every ounce of this saving in weight was put into the outside lead.”

Early English rating rules produced the ‘plank-on-edge’ yacht, where the beam became narrower and the draught got deeper.

New rating rules were then adopted to discourage this extreme type and eventually the Universal Rule was introduced in the USA and the International Rule – which produced the International Metre Classes – took over in Europe.

Yet again, racing rules proved to be a major influence on design development.

By the start of the 20th century the big, long-keeled racing yachts like the J Class attracted a lot of public attention, but after World War II everything changed. Yachts built to the Universal Rule fell from favour.

The age of the racing dinghy arrived and the ocean racer became the performance yacht of the future.

To new extremes

A 300-mile race from New York to Marblehead saw the start of offshore racing and the first Bermuda race was run in 1906.

The British were slower to compete offshore, but in 1925 seven yachts took up the challenge to race round the Fastnet Rock, starting from the Isle of Wight and finishing at Plymouth.

EG Martin’s French gaff-rigged pilot cutter Jolie Brise won the race and the Ocean Racing Club was formed.

In 1931 this became the Royal Ocean Racing Club (RORC), which remains the governing body of offshore racing in Britain.

The ‘cutaway’ modified full keel was famously used by Olin Stevens on his mighty Dorade. Credit: Christopher Ison/Alamy

The early competitors in RORC races were long-keeled cruising boats, many of them gaff rigged and designed for comfort and speed.

But everything changed in 1931 when the young American Olin Stephens designed and then sailed his family’s 52ft yawl Dorade across the Atlantic to compete in that year’s Fastnet race.

She won with ease. Then she did it again in 1933, having first won the Transatlantic ‘feeder’ race.

At 52ft LOA, with sharp ends and 10ft 3in beam, some said Dorade looked like an overgrown yawl rigged 6-metre. But her triple-spreader main mast was revolutionary. As were her cutaway forefoot, lightweight construction, deep ballast and 7ft 7in draught.

Dorade took the long keel format to new extremes.

In the USA, the Cruising Club of America (CCA), founded in 1922, played much the same role as the RORC did in Britain.

It introduced its own rating rule which influenced the evolution of yacht design in the USA.

The Elan 333. Both the deep (1.9m) and shallow (1.5m) draught models feature an elegantly faired bulb keel and spade rudder. Credit: Peter Poland

Beam was treated more leniently under the CCA rule, so wider American designs later offered more space for accommodation and a bit more inherent form stability than RORC-rule inspired yachts.

Many famous designers of long-keel racing yachts at this time developed their skills at the yachtbuilding firms they ran, such as William Fife II (1821–1902), his son William III (1857–1944), Charles E Nicholson (1868–1954) of Camper & Nicholsons and Nat Herreshoff of Bristol, Rhode Island.

Around the same time several British yacht designers made their names, including George L Watson (1851–1904) who set up one of the earliest Design Offices and Alfred Mylne (1872–1951), who designed several successful International Metre Class yachts.

Norwegian designers Colin Archer (1832–1921) and Johan Anker (1871–1940) also joined the party.

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In 1873 Archer designed the first long keel Norwegian yacht, but his real interest was work boats – pilot boats, fishing craft, and sailing lifeboats – some of which were later converted into cruising yachts.

Erling Tambs’s Teddy was a classic Colin Archer long keel canoe-stern design in which he wandered the globe with his young wife and family.

He proved the seaworthiness of Archer’s yachts, as well as their speed, by winning the 1932 Trans-Tasman yacht race.

Fellow Norwegian Johan Anker – a one-time pupil of Nat Herreshoff – became equally famous, thanks to his Dragon-class design that still races today.

As a new generation of designers arrived on the scene in the 1930s, hull tank testing became more sophisticated.

Long keel designs became as much a science as an art.

The leader of this new wave of designers, Olin J Stephens, had been a junior assistant to Starling Burgess who designed race-winning J Class yachts, including the iconic Ranger .

Tank testing was then in its infancy but the USA was ahead of the game and Stephens stored away everything that he learned. He enjoyed a head start over his contemporaries.

Keel types: Fin keels

Between the 1930s and the 1980s more fin keel designs began to arrive on the scene and his firm Sparkman & Stephens produced many of the world’s top ocean racers.

He also designed America’s Cup 12-Metres that defended the cup up to 1983 until Ben Lexcen’s winged keel shook the sailing world.

Many S&S fin keel and skeg production boats – such as the Swan 36 (1967), 37, 40, 43, 48, 53 and 65, She 31 (1969) and 36 and S&S 34 (1968) – still win yacht races and are much sought after as classics.

The S&S 34 has several circumnavigations to its name. Stephens, of course, had his rivals.

Among these was the Englishman Jack Laurent Giles, whose light displacement race-winner Myth of Malham had one of the shortest ‘long keels’ of all time.

(L-R) A Sigma 38 designed by David Thomas and Gulvain (1949) by Jack Giles as a development of his Fastnet-winning Myth of Malham have very different keel types. Credit: Peter Poland

The Dutchman EG Van de Stadt designed the Pioneer 9 (1959) which was one of the first GRP fin keel and spade rudder racers.

Towards the end of his career, Olin Stephens also came up against Dick Carter, Doug Peterson, German Frers and the Kiwis Ron Holland and Bruce Farr.

The development of new shaped keels went hand in hand with this rapid evolution in yacht design.

The full keel, as still found on motor-sailers such as the Fisher range, gave way to the ‘cutaway’ modified full keel as famously used by Olin Stephens on his mighty Dorade , designed back in the late 1920s.

She still wins ‘classic’ yacht races in the USA. American designer Ted Brewer wrote in ‘ GoodOldBoat ’ that Dorade’s offshore racing successes proved that the full keel is not essential for seaworthiness.

The Nicholson 32’s modified ‘cutaway’ long keel results in excellent performance and handling. Credit: Genevieve Leaper

As a result of its improved performance and handling, the modified ‘cutaway’ long keel caught on quickly and became the standard for around 35 years.

This keel type is found on numerous popular designs such as the Nicholson 32 , 26 and 36, Twister 28 and many Nordic Folkboat derivations.

The modified full keel format had a cutaway profile, giving good handling and directional stability while having less wetted surface than the full keel designs.

These yachts can perform well in all conditions and have a comfortable motion.

Even though they are generally of heavier displacement than fin keelers, they are not much slower in light airs , despite their added wetted surface area.

Their main drawback is a wide turning circle ahead and reluctance to steer astern when under motor.

Keel types: Increased stability

The modified full keel was subsequently cut away more and more for bluewater and inshore racers in an attempt to reduce wetted area until, finally, some designers took it to extremes.

As a result, much-reduced directional stability produced craft that were difficult to steer in breezy conditions, broaching regularly.

Whereupon the fin keel and skeg-hung rudder took over, reinstating increased directional stability, improving windward ability, reducing drag and restoring – when under power – control astern and on slow turns.

This fin and skeg format was later followed by the NACA sectioned fin keel with a separate spade rudder .

Soon, many performance cruisers followed this race-boat trend.

The Hanse 430 has a spade rudder and bulbed keel (draught 2.16m or 1.79m shoal draught. Credit: Peter Poland

Many builders now also offer shoal draught fin keel options and shallower twin rudders.

Some, such as Hanse, incorporate L- or even T-shaped bulbs on some Hanses and Dehlers at the base of finely shaped cast iron fins.

A new international competition had encouraged the initial development of modern fin keel yacht designs.

The revamped One Ton Cup was launched in 1965 for yachts on fixed handicap ratings (typically around 37ft long).

This spawned later fixed-rating championships for Quarter Tonners (around 24ft), Half Tonners (around 30 ft), Three-Quarter Tonners (around 33ft), and finally Mini-Tonners (around 21ft).

All these yachts were eventually handicapped under the International Offshore Rule (IOR) that replaced the old RORC and CCA rules.

The revamped One Ton Cup helped encourage the developed of modern fin keel designs. Credit: Getty

Countless production fin keel cruisers designed and built in the 1970’s to 1990’s boom years were loosely based on successful IOR racers that shone in the ‘Ton Cup’ classes.

The IOR handicap system’s major drawback was its Centre of Gravity Factor (CGF) that discouraged stiff yachts.

Once the international IRC rule replaced the IOR, more thought was given to increasing stability by putting extra weight in a bulb at the base of the keel.

GRP production boats followed suit. The keel foil’s chord needed to be wide enough to give good lateral resistance (to stop leeway), yet not be so wide as to add unnecessary drag.

Exaggeratedly thin foils are not suited to cruising yachts because they can be tricky upwind.

Tracking is not their forte and they can stall out. A bonus was an easier ride downwind thanks to wider sterns.

Keel Types: Lead or iron?

And then there is lead. Almost every production cruiser has a cast iron keel for one simple reason; it is much cheaper than lead. But it’s not as good.

Not only does it rust; it is ‘bigger’ for the same given weight. A cubic metre of iron weighs around 7,000kg, while the same cubic metre of lead weighs around 11,300kg.

An iron keel displaces far more water (so has more drag) than the same lead weight. We had always put iron keels under our Hunters – as did our competitors.

But when we came to build the Van de Stadt HB31 cruiser-racer, designer Cees van Tongeren said “No. We use lead.” “Why?” I asked. Cees replied: “If we use iron, the keel displaces more, so the boat sails worse.”

Rustler 36 long keel’s cutaway forefoot delivers responsiveness and manoeuvrability – a reason the design is so popular in the Golden Globe Race. Credit: Beniot Stichelbaut/GGR/PPL

Which explains why top-flight race boats have lead keels – or at the very least composite keels with a lead bulb or base bolted to an iron upper foil, thus lowering the centre of gravity (CG).

Some modern production cruiser-racers offer high-performance lead or lead/iron composite keels – but at a price.

Many Danish X-Yacht and Elan race-boat models, for example, have a lead bulb on the base of an iron NACA section fin.

Rob Humphreys, current designer of the popular Elan and Oyster ranges, said: “The T-keel is good if you have sufficient draught available. If not, the fin element has too short a span to do its job. This is because the T-bulb doesn’t contribute as usefully to side force as a ‘filleted L-bulb.’

“I developed and tested this shape (a blended-in projection off the back of the main fin) for the maxi race boat Rothmans in 1988/9, and have since used it on the Oysters and Elan Impressions. The ‘filleted’ keel we tested for Rothmans had slightly more drag dead downwind (more wetted area) but was significantly better when any side-force occurred; and side-force goes hand-in-hand with heel angle – which is most of the time! When the model spec allows for reasonable draught, the keel option with the lowest centre of gravity will invariably be a T-keel, with a longer bulb giving the greatest scope for a slender ballast package. An L-keel is a compromise and doesn’t suffer from the risk of snagging lines, mooring warps, and nets. [many modern production cruisers have 100% cast iron L- or T-shaped keels]. A lead bulb is preferable to a cast iron keel in terms of volume and density, but it costs more. However, a lead T-keel in a production environment will almost certainly use a cast iron or SG Iron fin, which may rust.”

The Mystery 35, designed by Stephen Jones and built by Cornish Crabbers, has a lead fin keel. Photo: Michael Austen/Alamy

Rustler Yachts also uses lead instead of iron for their keels.

The Rustler 36 long keel (designed by Holman and Pye and winner of the 2018 Golden Globe Race) has a cutaway forefoot to improve responsiveness and manoeuvrability.

The long keel creates more drag but, as with the Rustler 24, the cutaway forefoot makes the 36 more nimble than a full long keel boat, which are more difficult to manoeuvre in reverse under power.

The rest of Rustler’s offshore range – the Rustler 37, 42, 44 and 57 – designed by Stephen Jones – have lead fin keels.

As does his Mystery 35 built by Cornish Crabbers.

These offer an excellent combination of directional stability, performance and lateral stability. The yachts track well, are comfortable in choppy seas, and have good manoeuvrability, all without the flightiness of shorter chord fin keels found on many production family cruisers.

A digital future

Influential designer David Thomas said: “When I started designing, I integrated sharp leading edges to the keel; until someone told me a radius was better. Then we were all taught that an elliptical shape was better still. With the advent of computers, designers could better visualise the end-product; and clever ‘faring programs’ speeded this up.”

So where next? A combination of lighter and stronger materials, rapidly developing computer programs, a desire for maximum interior volume and low costs has led us to today’s production yacht.

Twin rudders improve the handling of broad-sterned yachts when heeled.

The IRC rating rule permits low CG keels, wider beam and near-vertical bows and sterns.

And designers now have an array of new computer tools at their disposal. But maybe there’s still that element of black magic?

As David Thomas so succinctly said: “You can design a yacht 95% right, but the last 5% can be down to luck.”

Keel types : the pros and cons

Full length keel

The Fisher 31 and many motor-sailers have long keels. Credit: Peter Poland

Pros: Directional stability. Heavy displacement leading to comfort at sea.

Cons: Poor windward performance. Large wetted surface leads to drag. When under power at low speeds, the turning circle is wide unless fitted with thrusters. The same applies to manoeuvring astern.

Cutaway modified long keel form with keel-hung rudder

Pros: Reduced wetted surface area leading to increased boat speed. Better windward performance and handling than full length keel. Rudder on the aft end of the keel improves self-steering ability on some designs.

Cons: Under engine, this keel form has a large turning circle ahead and poor control astern. Since the rudder is not ‘balanced’, the helm on some designs can feel quite heavy.

Fin keel with skeg-hung rudder

The skeg gives protection to the rudder. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: The further reduction in wetted surface area leads to more boat speed. Directional stability and close-windedness are also improved. If full depth, the skeg can protect the rudder against collision damage.

Cons: When combined with a narrow stern, this keel format can induce rolling when sailing dead downwind in heavy winds.

Fin keel with separate spade rudder

Fin keel with spade: Low wetted surface and aerofoil shapes enhance performance. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: The fin and spade rudder mix reduces wetted surface and gives a more sensitive helm – especially if the blade has ‘balance’ incorporated in its leading edge. Handling under power in astern is precise and the turning circle is small.

Cons: The rudder is fully exposed to collisions. There are no fittings connecting the rudder to a keel or skeg, so the rudder stock and bearings need to be very robust.

Shallow stub keel with internal centreplate.

Pros: When lowered, the plate gives good windward performance. The plate can act as an echo sounder in protected shallow water. There is normally no internal centreplate box to disrupt accommodation. With the plate raised, off-wind performance is good.

Cons: The plate lifting wire needs regular inspection and occasional replacement. Windward performance with the plate raised is poor.

Lifting or swing keel

Boats with lifting keels tend to surf earlier downwind. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Shallowest draught so more cruising options; can also be moored on cheaper moorings. Surfs early downwind. Small wetted surface so can be fast.

Cons: Reduced living space due to internal keel box. With a raised keel, poor directional control. Susceptible to hull damage if grounding on hard material.

Twin or bilge keel

Bilge- or twin-keelers can take the ground on the level. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Can take the ground in a level position. Modern twin-keel designs with around 15º splay, around 2º toe-in and bulbed bases perform well upwind. Good directional stability due to the fins. Modern twin keels with bulbed bases lower the centre of gravity.

Cons: Older designs do not point upwind well. Slapping sound under windward keel when at a steep angle of heel on older designs. Antifouling between the keels can be tricky. Can be more expensive than fin keels.

Wing keel: A low centre of gravity gives a good righting moment. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Low centre of gravity means good righting moment. Shallow draught. Sharper windward performance.

Cons: Larger surface area means it is more likely to pick up fishing gear, like lobster pots. Difficult to move once it is grounded. And difficult to scrub keel base when dried out alongside a wall.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Why twin keels are making a comeback

• Theo Stocker
• March 20, 2019

French boat builders are leading the way with versatile new twin keel boats. Theo Stocker went to discover the appeal and how to dry out in style

There are a significant number of sailors who prefer boats that can take the ground

Bilge keels can be a divisive topic. While it might seem like the majority of new boat buyers are in favour of fin keels, there is a significant undercurrent of sailors who prefer boats that can take the ground.

While fin keels offer a deeper centre of gravity, marginally less drag and more lateral resistance, making them theoretically better at sailing to windward, they are a relatively recent development and it’s not long since all yachts were long-keeled and could comfortably dry out on legs or alongside a harbour wall.

In the tidal waters of the UK, where drying harbours and half-tide creeks abound, the ability to dry out can vastly increase both your potential cruising grounds, and the cost and location of your home berth.

There are a wealth of shallow draft cruisers available on the second-hand market today.

Moody, Westerly and Hunter all produced enormously popular bilge keel models, while Southerly, Parker, Feeling, Ovni and Allures have been making lift keel and swing keel yachts for years.

Drying out opens up new cruising grounds

Latterly, it is the French centre-board yachts that have proved most popular for the adventurous sailor keen to get off the beaten track. That may explain why bilge keels have rather waned.

There are some new kids on the block, however, that are reinvigorating the concept.

Most notably, La Rochelle-based RM yachts offer a range of epoxy-infused plywood boats that can take the ground between their two keels and a weight-bearing rudder.

Hot on the heels of these French class leaders are Brittany yard Marée Haute and their Django brand, which produces lightweight GRP pocket cruisers from six metres up to 12 metres.

While they offer deep fin and lift keel options, it is their twin keeled versions that are currently proving most popular. So where better than Brittany to go for a test sail?

We went along to try drying out in the latest incarnation of these new and interesting twin keel cruisers.

BILGE KEEL OR TWIN KEELS?

There have been many design variations that come broadly under the term bilge keels. Strictly speaking, bilge keels are in addition to a long central keel, fitted near the bilge, where the hull turns from the bottom to the side of the boat.

Traditionally, these were non-structural, shallow and long, largely intended to reduce rolling. Twin keels, in contrast, replace the central keel entirely and the boat is structurally adapted to make these the main ballast-bearing hull appendages.

Some early twin keel moldings simply added two shallow-draught keels either side of the centreline, at right angles to the waterline and parallel to the centreline, but these boats often tended to sag to leeward when sailing upwind, and sometimes lacked the proper hull reinforcement at the attachment points.

More modern twin keels tend to be much better hydrodynamically aligned and, some argue, provide at least as much lateral resistance as a single keel, though in theory, more drag.

A boat with two keels will tend to be heavier because of the additional reinforcement needed to bear the loads of the ballast and of drying out, and will usually have a higher centre of gravity because of their reduced draught. Again, modern construction, narrow-chord keels and ballast bulbs all help to reduce these effects.

1 FINDING A SPOT

The art of drying out is all about finding the right spot to take the bottom. In an ideal world, you would find somewhere that is totally sheltered.

Luckily, when drying out you can tuck in much further than you normally would, but you don’t want any swell coming through that will lift the boat and drop her on her keels in the crucial moments that she is settling down, or refloating as the tide returns.

Most twin keelers will be designed to withstand some wave action on the keels, but you don’t want to push it. You then need to find an area of seabed that’s as level as possible. Despite the fact that you are suspending the boat’s weight at over a metre’s height, the wide set keels ensure she is very stable, so unless you are on rocks, you should be fine.

Finding a sheltered anchorage without too much swell is vital when drying out. Credit: Alamy

The type of bottom makes a difference too. Rocks will tend to be uneven and could damage the keels, although smaller stones won’t be a problem.

Gravel, sand or mud are ideal and will normally be pretty level. Hard sand is the ideal as you will then be able to walk to and from your boat with ease at low tide, but it’s worth having a pair of wellies on board for the inevitable muddy puddles that will be left as the water recedes.

Before you decide to dry out, it’s crucial to plan ahead. You might have enough water to get in on this tide, but you don’t want to get neaped if the tides are dropping off.

Similarly, have a look at the forecast. If the wind is forecast to change while you are dried out, check that the anchorage will remain protected.

Don’t forget to note the barometric pressure and general wind direction, which can have a significant impact on the predicted tidal heights.

While charts will help, local knowledge is king. Almanacs and pilot books will give useful advice for where to go, but ask other sailors too.

Locals may well know little spots that are well and truly off the beaten track.

2 ANCHORING

Once you have chosen where to dry out, you will need to anchor. If you are in an open bay with plenty of space, a single bow anchor will be fine.

It’s an odd feeling waiting for your yacht to go aground

If it is important which way you are facing when you dry out, however, such as on a sloping beach, in a narrow river, or if there are other boats around, you will need to lay both a bow and a stern anchor to control your position.

In drying harbours, there may already be moorings, often fore-and-aft, to stop the boat from swinging.

3 PREPARING THE BOAT

Fit any legs or transom support

You may need to rig extra gear to keep the boat upright. Some fin keel and lift keel boats will have drying-out legs.

Bilge keelers with reasonably long keels fore and aft will be stable enough fore and aft with no additional gear, but more modern twin-keelers often aim to create a tripod, between keels and a weight-bearing rudder or an additional leg.

The Django 770 has an adjustable transom leg. While this is weight-bearing it’s more of a stabiliser and should be set slightly short in a swell.

4 DRYING OUT

If you are in a place you are familiar with and have dried out in before, you should be safe to anchor or moor the boat securely and head ashore while the tide goes out.

If you are somewhere new, however, it is worth staying with the boat for the critical period that the keels are taking the bottom until the boat is securely aground.

It is worth staying on your yacht while it is drying out if you are stopping somewhere unfamiliar

This is particularly true if your boat has drying out legs, as the relatively small surface area of the leg could end up on a rock or a soft spot, and will need adjusting and tensioning to keep their boat comfortably upright.

5 HIGH AND DRY

If you are lucky, you will be able to walk ashore at low tide without getting your feet wet. If you are going ashore for a while, make sure you check the tides — you may need to carry the tender to the high-water mark if you don’t want to swim back.

It is a good chance to check your hull fittings

In most places, a pair of wellies will help when walking through mud, or over rocks. You may need to lower the bathing ladder to climb down from the boat, and to get back on when the tide is out.

Fabio Muzzolini is the sales director for Marée Haute, the Breton builders of the Django range of twin-keeled yachts

If you’re in a narrow river, low water is a good opportunity to have a look at exactly where the channel goes.

The boat will be very stable once dried out, but be careful about putting too much weight on the bow — it’s probably a good idea not to have more than one person on the bow when dried out.

A couple of buckets will also come in very handy.

Fill one of them up before you lose the water so you can wash your feet once you’ve walked back across the sand or mud.

The other bucket is for calls of nature, as you won’t be able to flush the heads.

6 REFLOATING

Afloat again and ready to sail

Waiting for the tide to return is the easy part, if all crew are back aboard.

As soon as the boat is floating, remove any drying-out legs or supports — these are remarkably easy to forget, but could cause real damage if left down.

Don’t forget to lift the bathing ladder too.

Retrieve your stern anchor first (you can do this when the tide is out if the conditions are right) and then weigh the bow anchor and you’re off.

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Unlock the Secrets: Top 10 Sailboat Keels for Smooth Sailing

Set sail on knowledge with our deep-dive into the hidden heroes of the high seas—the keels! Discover which type can steer your next aquatic adventure to smoother waters.

Every component of a sailboat affects the cost, handling, and safety of the vessel. Perhaps none of these components are as overlooked as keels. So, how many types of sailboat keels are there and how do they differ?

The most common types of sailboat keels are bilge, bulb, and fin keels which are beloved for their speed. Full keels offer the most stability and make them best-suited for ocean sailing compared to shoal and daggerboard keels. Lifting, twin, and bilge keels are all popular as well and are known for providing a smooth ride.

Factors such as the size of your sailboat and where you intend to take it to help determine which type of keels you should consider. Some types of sailboat keels, such as full keels are great for ocean sailing whereas shoal keels are ideal for shallow waters. Follow along as we explore the 10 types of sailboat keels and see what the best practical use is for each one.

Sailboat Keel Types

Each of the types of sailboat keel is different in style, application, and ideal use. For example, fin keels are great for racing sailboats whereas shoal keels are better for cruising.  You also need to consider how far you plan to go from shore and which type of water you are sailing through .

For example, some keels can easily cut through choppy water without suffering stability. On the other hand, some sailboat keels are only suited for smooth and shallow waters. Let’s take a look at the 10 types of sailboat keels.

Canting keels are among the most practical and impressive types of sailboat keels. They come in a wide variety of sizes that are proportionate to the size of the boat in question.  Canting keels are attached to a strut underneath the boat and they are designed to extend as low as possible .

This dynamic keel isn’t fixed, so you can adjust it based on the wind and the direction of your boat. Many boaters look for this in a sailboat because it lets you react accordingly under different weather and water conditions. Ideally, you should be able to adjust a canting keel while onboard so that you can go as fast as possible.

Bilge keels refer to multiple fins that extend from the bottom of a sailboat. Neither of the 2 fins sticks out too far, so you won’t have to worry about damage when you come close to shore or sail through shallow water.  They aren’t the fasted type of keel, but they are quite easy to maintain because of their relatively small size and simple design .

Arguably the biggest benefit of bilge keels is that they offer superior roll stability. This provides a smoother ride which is essential if you sail through rough waters or easily get seasick. You will most commonly find sailboats with bilge keys in areas with shallow water around a coastline.

A bilge keel should last for years to come as long as you properly maintain it. Dry your bilge out every few months and clean it so that it continues to work well and doesn’t suffer algae damage.

Boat Design Net

Consider a sailboat with a bulb keel if you value stability and safety . Also known as wing keels, bulb keels are perfect for large sailboats and can help keep them on track. That can be difficult to do with a massive sailboat, especially in inclement weather conditions or in rough water.

A bulb keel can use its weight to balance a large or long sailboat when it shifts from one side to another. As the name suggests, bulb keels are shaped like a standard bulb, and they look almost like teardrops. They are low-maintenance as long as you can dry and clean your bulb keel’s surface every few months if you use it often.

4. Daggerboard

Practical Sailor

Daggerboards are a unique variety of keels that are removable and easy to maintain. They are easy to use for beginners and seasoned sailors alike.  However, you should only use a daggerboard keel with a small boat because it may not be strong enough to sway one that is long and heavy .

A sailboat with a daggerboard can sail up to 2 knots faster than other sailboats under the right conditions. Daggerboards make it easy to steady and balance your sailboat because you can easily adjust the boards themselves. With that said, the presence of a daggerboard can add a lot of money to the cost of a sailboat.

They can add up to $15,000 or more to the cost of a boat, especially if you get one with a dual daggerboard which offers more control. Daggerboards are also cumbersome and can reduce some of the storage space on your boat depending on which type of hull you have.

Sailboat Cruising

Your sailboat likely has a fin keel if it was made in the last 10-15 years.  Fin keels are commonly praised for being precise and fast which is useful in fresh water and saltwater . A fin sticks out of the bottom of the sailboat in the perfect shape that doesn’t reduce your sailboat’s hydrodynamic nature.

You get more speed with a fin keel than most of the alternatives because they aren’t cumbersome. Their shape is meant to easily cut through the water without any trouble. Fin keels can also easily steady a sailboat as it sways even if the waters are rough or the weather is bad.

They also appeal to beginners because fin keels make it all too easy to steer sailboats of any size . Storage isn’t a problem for sailboats with fin keels because they don’t take up too much internal space that could be used for cargo. You can find fin keels on everything from casual cruisers to professional-grade racing sailboats.

6. Full-Length

Rigging Doctor

Full-length keels are a popular alternative to fin keels, even if they are somewhat slower and less modern. With that said, sailboats with full keels make up for the lack of speed and precision with stability.  The stability that a sailboat with a full keel has to offer is unparalleled in the world of marine technology .

That is large because the keel starts at the front and continues all the way through the aft. Unlike some other varieties, full keels are a part of the hull itself. This makes them large and heavy which can limit the speed but also makes it much easier to control your sailboat.

Life of Sailing

Shoal keel sailboats are unique in that they have a limited draft which makes them perfect for drifting . However, you aren’t limited to any particular style or activity with a shoal keel unless you take your boat out far into rough waters. They aren’t as stable as full keel sailboats which put you at a higher risk of capsizing if an emergency occurs.

You wouldn’t necessarily want to take a shoal keel sailboat out for a long-distance trip. They are best suited for fun excursions that don’t take you too far from shore or into choppy waters. Even still, sailboats with shoal keels can easily handle a trip close to shore or even within shallow lagoons.

Sirius-Yachts

Twin keels are a type of bilge keel that has 2 keels and they have recently become popular again. Their rise in popularity is mainly because of their handling and how smooth they are.  You can easily make a wide turn with a sailboat equipped with a twin keel and maintain a similar speed .

Another major benefit of sailboats with twin keels is that they can stand when you bring them to shore. This makes it easy to connect your sailboat to a trailer, perform routine maintenance, and transport it. Great performance aside, this is a major selling point of twin keels because it can otherwise be difficult to maintain and transport a sailboat.

Yacht Harbor

Sailboats with quad keels particularly come in handy if you need to make several tight turns on a single trip. Quad keels are designed so that you won’t have to fight to steady your sailboat once you’ve made a turn.  Of course, you will need to adjust based on the situation, but the additional keels make it all too easy to navigate tight passages .

10. Lifting

Owen Clarke Design

Lifting keels, or swing keels, are retractable, stable, and easy to use. You can even beach a boat with a lifting keel without worrying about causing damage.  They are retractable and your boat can operate well whether your lifting keel is up or down .

You get more variety with a lifting keel than you would get with one that is in a fixed position and unable to move. Speed isn’t necessarily the main appeal of boats with lifting keels, but they are lightweight nonetheless. All that you need to do is raise or lower the keel via a lever attached to ropes or a pulley.

With that said, you need to keep an eye on several key components of your lifting keel so that it stays in good shape. Lifting keels require a system that includes a winch, turning ball, and cable which are all necessary to function. Otherwise, there aren’t any downsides to a lifting keel as long as you keep up with the maintenance.

Best Keel For Ocean Sailing

Full-length keels are the best option for ocean sailing because they are reliable. They don’t offer as much speed as a fin keel, but they are much more reliable.  Full keels are the most comfortable option for ocean sailing because of their smooth and easy-to-control nature .

You can support from a full keel throughout the majority of your sailboat’s hull. This is invaluable while ocean sailing because there will always be an element of waves and choppiness. It also doesn’t hurt that you won’t have to worry about your sailboat changing course while ocean sailing.

With that said, some boaters prefer fin keels for ocean sailing because of their speed and maneuverability. The right choice for you comes down to whether or not you want to cruise casually or enjoy a speedy journey at sea. Personally, the stability of a full keel is more appealing than the extra speed of fin keels because you need a stable vessel on the ocean.

Best Sailboat Keel For Fishing

Bilge keels and shoal keels are the best sailboat keels for fishing. They can both handle shallow waters quite well and can easily navigate tight passages.  That is often necessary when fishing, especially if you visit small coves and lagoons and need as much control as possible .

Sailboats aren’t always thought of as the best types of boats for fishing, but choosing the right keel can make a huge difference. Bilge and shoal keels both have shallow drafts which give you more control in areas where you’d be likely to stop and catch some fish. A bilge keel or shoal can make the difference between a sailboat that is suitable for fishing and one that is meant for racing and cruising.

Sailboat Keel Material

Sailboat keels are made of several types of materials, but the most common are lead and cast iron . Each of these materials is durable enough to withstand prolonged exposure to water which is unavoidable with sailboat keels. Typically, sailboat keels are made of a combination of several materials in small concentrations.

For example, many sailboat keels feature a combination of cast iron, lead, and concrete infused with iron. The mixture gives the keel stability and protects the metals from quickly corroding from water. Many boaters and enthusiasts are reasonably apprehensive about the presence of lead, but lead isn’t in every keel.

The presence of lead typically only applies to sailboat keels that have a ballast, but not all keels with ballasts even have lead .  With that said, you will find lead in many of the most popular types of sailboat keels, such as fin keels. You can typically count on the presence of cast iron, however, because it is superior to other types of iron in terms of durability.

What is an Encapsulated Keel?

Grabau International

An encapsulated keel is a keel that is part of the hull itself. You can encapsulate several different types of keels, especially if you customize a sailboat or yacht.  This will come at an extra cost, but many sailors find the money worthwhile given the added stability .

Encapsulated keels have become more common and are now often available as stock parts of new boats. The keel is molded to the hull instead of attached with hardware such as rivets. This is essential to the stability of an encapsulated keel because you won’t have to worry about hardware suffering water damage.

Can You Sail Without a Keel?

You can sail without a keel if you have a dinghy, and that is an affordable alternative to a standard sailboat.  They are tiny sailboats that don’t have a ballast or keel and measure under 20 feet long . Dinghies are safe to sail with, but you shouldn’t go out more than 1-2 miles from shore.

Otherwise, you risk losing your course because of the lack of a keel that can help keep your vessel on the right path. The further you take a boat out, the easier it is to stray from your path even with modern navigation technology.

You should never attempt to sail a boat that is over 20 feet long without a keel whether it is damaged or you removed it. This will take away much of the control that you need to safely sail whether your distance is short or long.  Your sailboat needs a keel whether it’s a monohull or multi-hull vessel if it’s over 20 feet long .

So, What Are The Types of Sailboat Keels?

The best types of sailboat keels are fin keels, full keels, and bilge keels . They all offer a great mixture of precision and maneuverability, but full keels in particular offer the most stability of them all. Bulb keels are another great option if you want a sailboat keel that is stable and safe.

However, you need to especially keep an eye on bulb keels because they can easily carry scum and algae. Lifting sailboat keels are great because they are retractable so you don’t need to worry about your approach to shore. Full keels are the most well-rounded and best suited for ocean sailing, but fin keels are the fastest and most precise.

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Which Sailboats Have Lead Keels?

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 20, 2023

‍ Key Takeaways

• Lead is the most ideal keel material but iron is among the most common types
• Different keel types vary as well as the material that is used to make them
• Not many boats use lead keel as the material as it is expensive
• Lead needs preventative maintenance but not as much as iron

‍ The type of sailboat keel equipped on a boat can make an impact of owning it, especially a lead keel. But which sailboats have lead keels?

Sailboats that have lead keels include the Catalina 385, all of the Tartan Yachts, and the Marlow-Hunter 42ss. Not all boats are equipped with a lead keel and it can make a difference in the maintenance over the years that you or someone else will endure.

In my experience, lead keels are better than cast iron keels. But they each have their pros and cons among the different types of sailboat keels.

Table of contents

‍ Top 10 Boats with a Lead Sailboat Keel

There are various keels that can accommodate a sailboat and they have different materials. A sailboat with a lead keel is somewhat harder to find in comparison to iron due to various reasons. Below are sailboats that use a lead keel.

Catalina 385

Catalina has a handful of boats in their lineup that use a lead keel. For this particular model it can be equipped with a wing or fin keel but fin keels are more common. There are other possibilities for a lead keel in production but you would need to consult with the manufacturer beforehand.

Tartan Yachts

According to Tartan Yachts they use a lead keel in all of their sailboats no matter what. They even poke fun at other brands that shy away from the expenses and difficult nature of using lead.

One model to look at for example is the Tartan 365. This is arguably one of their most breathtaking options but all their options will use a high quality lead.

Marlow-Hunter 22ss

This particular boat brand has evolved a certain model over the years. The Marlow-Hunter 22ss features a lead keel but only if you want it. This is optional upon building it and completely up to the buyer if they do not mind the extra cost.

Cabo Rico 38

The Cabo Rico 38 had 200 boats built starting in 1977 and primarily used cast iron for their keels. However they changed over to using lead instead of cast iron during the last 40 or 50 produced boats. This was due to better performance and the increased popularity of using lead instead of iron.

Another older boat that used lead in their keels was Yankee. Yankee only made 132 models of the 30 from 1970 to 1975.

But this was during a shortage of materials and prices of quality ones were high. The company unfortunately went out of business because the owner refused to use cheaper materials that were inferior.

Hallberg-Rassy 45

A total of 71 models of the 45 were built by Hallberg-Rassy and included a lead keel. This was and still is a popular boat for those that enjoy racers or cruisers. These used a bulb keel and were a popular option for bulb keels on boats during that time.

For years Hanse has been one of the top sailboat yacht companies with their innovations and designs. They use a combination of lead and iron in their keels which is better than just using entirely iron. This allows slightly cheaper costs for both the consumer and the brand.

J/Boats have created some of the most popular one-design sailboats in the sailing world. They have many options for a lead keel. J/99 is one model in particular that is popular and uses a lead wedge bulb.

Island Packet Yachts

Island Packet uses a fully encapsulated lead ballast over the keel. One of their most popular models is the IP 349. This allows it to be attached without any bolts that could potentially come loose over time.

Oyster Sailing Yachts

Oyster has some of the best sailing yachts money can buy. All of their boats have lead to some degree in their keels. Their 495 model is a beauty that features a reinforced lead bulb keel.

Differences Between a Lead and Iron Keel

The differences between lead and iron keels might make a big enough impact on the decision to buy a boat with either one. Below are the major differences between the two options and why lead might be the better option for you.

Material Density and Overall Weight

Lead and iron have different weights and densities. Lead keels are much denser when compared to iron and can even be made with less materials since it has more weight.

Iron keels have to use more material in order to compare to the same density. So some boats might use more or less material based on the type of keel material they are using.

Stable Performances

A lead keel is often chosen due to its increased stability while sailing. Since a lead keel has more density it carries more weight that is needed when encountering rough seas.

Iron keels are a great benefit and you should have a keel for your boat. However they are not as crucial to handling rougher conditions in comparison to a lead keel.

Resistance to Corrosion

Both lead and iron keels are susceptible to the elements and potential damage to hitting things. Lead is sturdy if you were to hit something with it and does not rust.

As for iron you must continue to keep it in good shape with proper coatings in order to help prevent rust. These typically deteriorate from within so they may not show signs of wear until you hit something and it breaks off.

Different Types of Keels

There are a handful of sailboat keel types and each one has a slightly different use depending on the boat it is equipped on. They also have different advantages and how it affects the boat while sailing.

Full keels run along the entire length of a boat. So a full keel can be well over 30 feet if the boat is around that same length.

It is arguably the best keel since it offers the best stability. There are many sailors that do not like a full keel due to increased maintenance costs since it is a long keel.

A fin keel is most commonly seen on a racing or cruising boat. These offer smaller surface area but increase speed and stability in a good way.

A twin keel is an older keel type that has two fins that angle down underneath the boat. There is a small keel on each side of the boat for both port and starboard sides. These offer great stability but it doubles the maintenance costs long term if you have to take care of both smaller keels.

A wing keel is great for reducing heel and is primarily found on boats that explore shallower waters. They offer a nice touch of balance and stability for ballast weight.

A bulb keel is the most common keel type that is made out of lead. It is called a bulb since that is what the shape of it looks like. It is the best for adding stability for high performance boats in shallow waters with less ballast. Canting keels are often adjusted here which means they are slightly angled to affect performance.

A lifting keel can be adjusted in real time as you are sailing. These offer an increase in stability whenever you see fit and are used in a variety of sailboats.

Centerboard

These are similar to lifting keels as they can be raised or lowered. They are also called daggerboards but have slight differences. Centerboards are commonly used on sailboats while a daggerboard are used on racing sailboats.

Differences Between Keel Materials

Keels can be made out of various materials depending on the type of boat and keel shape. It also depends on the price and how much the manufacturer is willing to pay and pass onto the customer. The ballast material may also differ a boat does not use a keel.

Lead is one of the best options you can have for a keel material. It is an ideal material since is very durable and has little maintenance in comparison to an iron keel.

If you were to run aground you do not have to worry as much in comparison to other keel materials for damage. However it is more expensive and usually deters consumers or boat builders away from using it.

Steel is an all around type of material that combines a balance between cost and sturdiness. It provides great stability and is durable against long term use.

Iron is less dense than lead but still provides great value for money. They need to be larger in size in order to compete with the same weight that lead provides. These have slightly higher maintenance costs over the long term but not bad if you stay on top of it.

Composite is mainly used in higher end racing boats but there are some boats that utilize this type of keel material. They will often use a blend of kevlar or carbon fiber that is reinforced with resin. These are provide great stability and are strong.

Smaller boats will likely have a fiberglass keel that is a reinforced with a fiberglass cloth and resin. These are a lightweight option and are great for a boat that does not need a lot of weight.

Concrete is mixed with iron waste to help meet budget goals of some boat builders. It is less dense than lead and is a great addition for ballast. This allows you to add more weight and stability without using metals or increasing the cost.

Water is not really a keel type but some older boats use water for ballast instead of a keel. These are usually meant for larger yachts or some cruisers that do not want a keel in their design but need added stability. For ballast materials this is one of the easier methods.

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Yachting World

• Digital Edition

Why do keel failures happen and what can we do to prevent it?

• Matthew Sheahan
• June 10, 2017

We investigate the causes of keel failures and find some worrying reports of near-misses

Keel damage is a very real danger

To contemplate the loss of your keel is to think the unthinkable. Yet in recent years there have been several cases that have reminded us that this worst-case scenario can and does happen.

Many of the recent incidents have been aboard raceboats, often fitted with high-performance keels that push the boundaries of design and technology.

But the loss of the keel aboard Cheeki Rafiki, which became the subject of an intensive search last year, sent shockwaves through the sport. This was a standard Beneteau 40.7, a boat that is anything but high-tech. With around 800 afloat, it is a modest design with a reputation for being a robust and reliable workhorse.

Furthermore, the 40.7 is not only popular, but is typical of many other cruiser-racer styles around the world. Far from being extreme, this was a tragedy that claimed four lives aboard a run-of-the-mill cruiser-racer and struck a chord with thousands of sailors.

It wasn’t the first case of its type, however. In May 2013 a Bavaria 390 lost her keel 650nm north-east of Bermuda while on passage back from St Maarten to the Azores. In this incident the two-man Danish crew were rescued from a liferaft by a Finnish navy ship.

Before that there was the case of Hooligan V, a production raceboat that lost her keel in 2007 and claimed a life. In 2005 a Bavaria Match 42 lost hers as the internal structure pulled through the bottom of the boat. In the same year Moquini, a Fast 42, lost her keel off South Africa with the loss of six crew.

Indeed, so concerned is the sport’s governing body, ISAF, about the incidences of keel failure that it has formed a Keel Structure Working Party to investigate the issue. Part of the group’s initial work was to develop a database of the reported failures. Currently, the list includes 72 cases since 1984, and in those 24 lives have been lost – a small number perhaps when compared with the many thousands of boats that have been built over this period, but unacceptable nonetheless.

The trouble is that these are only cases where the worst has happened and the keel has parted company with the boat. It is frequently difficult to establish the cause of failure, and particularly to separate a shortcoming in design or manufacture from a human error such as a grounding. In a world where online forums spread gossip and rumour at the click of a mouse, getting to the truth can be especially tricky.

Next: Damage to your keel when you go aground

• 1. Introduction
• 4. If you enjoyed this….

Keelboat Sailing 101: A Beginner’s Guide to Navigating the Seas with Stability

• May 20, 2023

Ahoy, aspiring sailors! If you’re ready to embark on a thrilling adventure on the open waters, keelboat sailing is the perfect choice for you. In this beginner’s guide, we’ll delve into the world of keelboat sailing, uncovering the wonders of this stable and versatile vessel. Join us as we set sail and discover the exhilaration of keelboat sailing!

Table of Contents

Understanding keelboats.

Keelboats are sailing vessels renowned for their stability and maneuverability. Unlike dinghies or catamarans, keelboats feature a weighted keel beneath the hull, providing balance and resistance against heeling. Familiarize yourself with the anatomy of a keelboat, including the hull, rigging, and keel types, to gain a deeper understanding of this remarkable vessel.

Essential Equipment for Keelboat Sailing

Before embarking on your keelboat sailing adventure, ensure you have the necessary equipment on board. These may include life jackets, marine VHF radio, navigation tools like charts and compasses, and safety gear such as flares and first aid kits. Additionally, pack appropriate clothing, sun protection, and essential sailing gear. Safety should always be your top priority, so familiarize yourself with safety procedures and guidelines.

Basic Keelboat Sailing Techniques

Keelboats offer excellent stability, making them ideal for beginners. Start by learning fundamental sailing techniques such as hoisting and trimming sails, steering, and tacking. Understand the role of the keel in maintaining stability and how to adjust it as needed. As you gain confidence, you can progress to more advanced techniques like gybing, sail trim, and optimizing boat speed.

Navigating with Keelboats: Wind, Tides, and Currents

Understanding the interaction between wind, tides, and currents is essential for successful keelboat sailing. Learn to read wind patterns, anticipate changes, and adjust your sails accordingly. Familiarize yourself with tidal charts and how currents can influence your course. Mastering navigation skills will enable you to plan your journeys effectively and make the most of your keelboat sailing experience.

Keelboat Maintenance and Care

To ensure the longevity and performance of your keelboat, regular maintenance is vital. Learn how to inspect the rigging, check for wear and tear, and perform routine maintenance tasks. Keep the hull clean and protected, and pay attention to the keel and its components. Storing the keelboat properly during offseasons or when not in use is also crucial. By taking care of your keelboat, you’ll enhance safety and enjoyment on the water.

Joining Keelboat Sailing Communities

Connecting with fellow keelboat enthusiasts is a fantastic way to learn, share experiences, and expand your skills. Join local sailing clubs or online communities dedicated to keelboat sailing. Engage in races, regattas, or organized cruising events to challenge yourself and grow as a sailor. The knowledge and camaraderie gained from these communities will enhance your keelboat sailing journey.

Congratulations! You are now equipped with the essential knowledge to begin your journey towards a keelboat sailing adventure. From understanding the dynamics of keelboats to mastering basic sailing techniques, and from navigating with confidence to maintaining your vessel, this beginner’s guide has set you on a course for exciting experiences on the water.

So, hoist your sails, trim them for optimal performance, and set forth on your keelboat sailing voyage. Discover the joy of sailing with stability and embrace the endless possibilities that keelboat sailing has to offer!

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Understanding the Parts of a Sailboat: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Anatomy in 2023

• June 10, 2023

Exploring the Different Types of Sailboats and Their Versatile Uses

Yacht Sailing 101: A Beginner’s Guide to Embarking on Luxurious Adventures

9 Popular Boats With Lifting Keels (With Pictures & Prices)

If you are looking for a sailboat, you might want to consider one that features a lifting keel.

Lifting keels allow you to explore shallower waters, reduce drag, or other advantages when the keel is lifted.

Here are the boats you should check out first!

Table of Contents

What is a Lifting Keel?

As you probably know, the keel of a boat is the longitudinal structural device on the bottom of your hull.

On a sailboat, the keel serves as an underwater fluid machine that helps to minimize the lateral motion of the vessel that is under sail, as well as acting as a counterweight to the lateral force that comes from the wind on the sails which can cause it to roll to the side.

A lifting keel, sometimes known as a centerboard, is a keel that retracts into the hull of a sailboat or pivots and allows for certain advantages.

A lifting keel’s main function is to provide a lift to counter the lateral force that is created by the sails. This allows the sailboat to move other directions other than downwind.

Because these keels lift into the hull, you would be able to take your vessel into shallower waters.

In addition, a lifting keel is ideal for:

• Moving the center of resistance.
• Reducing drag.
• Removing the boat from the water and trailering it.

Centerboards are different than other types of keels, such as a ballast keel, because they do not contribute to the overall stability of the vessel because they are not as heavy and instead they only provide lateral resistance.

Great Boats with Lifting Keels Under $30,000

If you are looking for a boat that features a lifting keel and all that comes with it, you are in luck!

Below, I have compiled a list of great boats that feature a lifting keel.

1. Parker 235 Mini Cruiser

The Parker 235 Mini Cruiser is a small sailboat that should be great for sailors who would like to trailer their boat and explore multiple destinations.

This sailboat exhibits excellence both afloat and while onshore. This features high performance due to its long waterline, stable hull, and a deep low center of gravity.

This boat features a custom boat trailer and is easy to launch and as well as to trailer.

This boat is 23’ 5” in length. Despite its smaller size, there is no compromising with the internal accommodations. The boat featured 2 berths, a galley, and a head compartment.

This boat also has a lifting keel which reduces the draft by 3’ 6”.

This boat can be found used at a price of around $20,000.00.

RELATED: Common Problems With Parker Boats .

2. Hunter 22

The Hunter 22 sailboat is a perfect small daysailer that features the capacity to stay aboard overnight. This vessel is ideal for up to five passengers and features a large cabin.

This boat is 21’ 4” in length and is easy to launch, rig, and trailer when needed.

This boat features a lifting keel that reduces draft by 2’ 6” when lifted up.

This boat has a starting price of $29,990.00.

3. BayRaider 20

The BayRaider 20 manufactured by Swallow Yachts, is a small open sailboat that is ideal for families or sailors who are looking for something stable and safe.

This boat has features that make it ideal for beginner sailors including the ability to keep the ballast tanks full for added stability.

This vessel also features a two-masted ketch that gives an advantage over a single-mast rig because it allows for a quick reduction of sail.

This boat is almost 20 feet long and is light enough to be trailered or handled by one person.

This boat features a lifting keel that reduces the draft by 3.8 feet when lifted.

This boat has a starting price of $27,750.00.

4. Catalina 22 Sport

Catalina strives to encourage sailors who are interested in racing with the Catalina 22 Sport. This boat is small and measures at 23’ 10”.

This boat also has a cabin that features berths for up to 4 adults. This boat is a great choice for those looking for speed and easy maneuverability while still offering the ability to stay aboard overnight.

This boat has a lifting keel that reduces the draft of the boat by 3’ 2” while lifted.

This boat has a starting price of $23,550.00.

5. Marlow-Hunter 15

The Marlow-Hunter 15 is a safe and versatile daysailer for families or individuals who new to sailing. This boat was designed with sailing novices in mind and features high sides, a contoured self-bailing cockpit, and a wide beam that was built for comfort.

These safety features will allow peace of mind for parents and brand new sailors.

This vessel is also easy to trailer, rig and launch.

With a length of 14’ 6”, you can fit a crew of up to four onboard but this boat can also be handled solo.

This vessel features a lifting keel that reduces the draft by 3 feet when lifted.

This boat features a highly affordable starting price of $10,123.00.

Models Between $30,000.00 and $100,000.00:

6. feeling 326.

The Feeling 326 was manufactured between the years of 1987 and 1999. This boat is a cruising sailboat that is 32’ 6” in length and comes with 2 cabins, 6 berths, and 1 head.

This boat is great if you plan to go out for long journeys with multiple people.

Even though this boat is an older model, you should still be able to expect quality sailing from them.

This boat also features a lifting centerboard that reduces the draft by 2’ 7”.

Depending on the year and the seller of the vessel, these boats are selling for an average price of between $30,000 and $45,000.00.

7. Norseboat 21.5

The Norseboat 21.5 is the largest model in the Norseboat line with a length of 21’ 10”. You can get either a Cabin or an Open model for this boat.

You can customize this vessel based on your needs and other factors. You can construct a standard or semi-custom Norseboat.

This boat features a lifting centerboard that reduces draft by 2’ 4” when lifted.

Depending on the layout and chosen options, this boat has a starting price of $37,490.00.

Boats Over $100,000.00:

8. alubat ovni 365:.

From the manufacturer Alubat, the Ovni 365 combines their experience in centerboards and high performance to create a vessel that is both comfortable and high performing.

This boat is great whether you are traveling upwind or downwind. This boat is great for both long trips or for simply cruising up and down the coast.

This boat is 39.17 feet long and features a galley as well as a front and rear cabin.

This boat features a lifting centerboard that reduces the draft by about 5.18 feet when lifted.

Depending on the year and specifications of this vessel, the price could range from $100,000 to $300,000.

9. Southerly 42 RST

Southerly makes a mono-hull 42 RST that is an offshore deck saloon sailboat that was built for cruising. This boat has a length of 42’ 2” and could be equipped with either 2-3 cabins, 4-8 berths, and comes with 2 heads.

This boat is great for taking multiple people out on the water. While these are no longer in production, they were made between the years 2007 and 2017.

This boat has a lifting keel that reduces the draft by 6’ 1” when the keel is up.

Depending on the year and the condition, this boat could cost a minimum of $250,000 but if often over $300,000.00.

10. Gunfleet 43

The Gunfleet 43 is a top of the line vessel with many options for customization. This boat is large and luxurious with a length of 44’ 1”.

This boat features a standard layout with either 2 or 3 cabins, or you could get a custom-built version that also has 3 cabins.

This vessel offers high-end luxurious features that are ideal for long trips and even vessels that you would consider for living aboard.

This line features an optional lifting keel that would reduce draft by 4’ 4” when lifted.

This luxurious and custom-crafted vessel has a large price tag of over $800,000.00.

Keel Types and Performance:

The lifting keel is not the only keel that is available for your vessel. Each keel type is built for a different type of performance.

Some of these keel types include:

• Fin Keel with Spade Rudder
• Fin Keel with Skeg Rudder
• Lifting or Swing Keel
• Twin or Bilge Keel

Make sure before you buy your vessel, you consider the type of performance you are looking for on your vessel and research the ideal keel for you.

This can help you when selecting which boat to purchase and will help you get the maximum performance and use out of your vessel.

If you do not buy the boat with the proper keel type , then you will not get the necessary performance needed. Some keels are made to be more stable, some are made to be more versatile, and some such as the lifting keel is made to be able to be optional depending on what type of activity you plan to achieve in your vessel.

A lifting keel is a great option for those who are looking for shallow draught, speed, efficiency, and the ability to plane your vessel early.

The lifting keel is not ideal if you are planning to use it to offer additional stability. If you are looking for additional stability, you will want to look at different and heavier keel options.

If that sounds ideal for you, you will benefit from one of the many daysailers or overnight vessels that offer a lifting keel listed above.

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13 Most Popular Swing Keel Sailboats Worth Considering

A swing keel sailboat allows you to explore shallower waters and launch your boat at shallow ramps with greater ease than a fixed keel. Additionally, swing keel sailboats are typically more affordable than fixed keel sailboats. In this article, we will introduce you to the 13 most popular swing keel sailboats that you may want to consider.

The 13 most popular swing keel sailboats that you may find worthy to consider are the following: Catalina 22, MacGregor 26, Hunter 22, Precision 23, O'Day 22, Beneteau First 235, Seaward 25, Islander Bahama 24, Watkins 27, Com-Pac 23, Montgomery 17, San Juan 23, and West Wight Potter 19.

The estimated pricing for the boats with swing keels ranges from $5,000 to $40,000. Let's take a look at which models are the most affordable and which are priced higher.

• Catalina 22 has a swing keel that is made of lead and can be raised and lowered using a winch system.
• The MacGregor 26 has a water ballast system in addition to its swing keel, which provides additional stability and helps keep the boat upright in rough conditions.
• The San Juan 23 is a fast and responsive swing-keeled sailboat that has a sail area-to-displacement ratio of 18.8.
• The Watkins 27 is a fast swing keel sailboat that has a reported top speed of around 7 knots.
• The O'Day 22 features a swing keel that is retractable and allows it to sail in waters as shallow as 2 feet.

On this page:

Catalina 22, macgregor 26, precision 23, beneteau first 235, islander bahama 24, san juan 23, west wight potter 19, montgomery 17.

Below is a table summarizing why each of these swing keel sailboats is worth considering, as well as their estimated market price in case you'd proceed with buying them:

The Catalina 22 is a popular sailboat model that has been in production since 1969. It is known for its versatility, ease of use, and affordability. One of the key features of the Catalina 22 is its swing keel, which allows it to be easily trailered and launched in shallow waters.

The swing keel on the Catalina 22 is made of lead and is attached to a cable that runs through a slot in the hull. The keel can be raised and lowered using a winch system, which allows the boat to navigate in shallow waters or be easily transported on a trailer.

When the keel is lowered, it provides stability and helps the boat sail upwind. When the keel is raised, the boat can be easily maneuvered in shallow waters or on a trailer.

This makes the Catalina 22 an ideal sailboat for those who want the flexibility to sail in a variety of conditions and locations. Catalina 22 is also a very affordable swing keel sailboat option. If you're curious about how much it costs to buy and own a sailboat , you can take a look at our article.

The MacGregor 26 is a popular trailerable sailboat that was first introduced in 1986. One of its unique features is the swing keel water ballast system, which allows the boat to be easily transported on a trailer and launched at various locations.

The swing keel is a retractable keel that can be raised or lowered depending on the water depth. When it is lowered, it provides additional stability and helps the boat track better through the water. When it is raised, the boat can be easily transported on a trailer.

The water ballast system is another unique feature of the MacGregor 26. The boat has two water tanks located on either side of the keel, which can be filled with up to 1,500 pounds of water. This water ballast provides additional stability and helps keep the boat upright in rough conditions.

If you're interested to know more about how sailing ballasts work , here's an article that can give you more information.

The Hunter 22 with a swing keel is a great sailboat for those who are looking for a versatile and easy-to-handle vessel. The swing keel allows the boat to navigate in shallow waters and provides better stability in deeper waters, so it is ideal for those who enjoy sailing in a variety of conditions and locations.

In addition, the Hunter 22 is a relatively affordable sailboat, making it a great option for those who are just starting out in sailing or who want to own a sailboat without breaking the bank. It is also a popular choice for families, as it can comfortably accommodate up to four people.

The Hunter 22 has a rich history, with the first model being introduced in 1973. Since then, the boat has undergone several design changes and upgrades, with the current model featuring modern amenities and technology.

The Precision 23 is a popular swing keel sailboat that is well-regarded for its versatility and performance. The swing keel design allows the boat to be easily launched and retrieved from a trailer.

One of the benefits of the Precision 23's swing keel design is its ability to sail in shallow waters. With the keel up, the boat has a draft of just 1'8", which allows it to navigate in areas that would be inaccessible to deeper-draft boats, such as coastal areas, bays, and estuaries.

When the keel is lowered, the Precision 23 has a draft of 5'0", which provides excellent stability and performance under sail. The boat is designed to be easy to handle, with a simple rig that is easy to set up and adjust. The spacious cockpit provides plenty of room for the crew to move around, and the cabin is well-appointed with all the amenities needed for comfortable cruising.

The O'Day 22 features a swing keel that is retractable and can be raised or lowered depending on the depth of the water. This feature allows the O'Day 22 to sail in waters as shallow as 2 feet, making it ideal for exploring shallow coves and bays.

This sailboat has a spacious cockpit, making it comfortable for day sailing or weekend trips. The cabin is compact but efficient, with a small galley, a portable toilet, and sleeping accommodations for up to four people.

The O'Day 22 is a popular choice for sailors of all skill levels, from beginners to experienced sailors. Its ease of use, versatility, and affordability make it a great choice for anyone looking for a reliable and fun sailboat.

The Beneteau First 235 is a popular sailboat that was first introduced in the early 1980s. It is a swing keelboat, which means that it has a retractable keel that can be raised or lowered depending on the depth of the water.

The boat is 23.5 feet long and has a beam of 8 feet so it is a relatively small boat that is easy to handle. It has a displacement of around 2,500 pounds, making it light, and can be easily towed behind a car.

The Beneteau First 235 is a popular boat because it is a well-designed and well-built sailboat that is both fast and easy to handle. The boat has a relatively narrow beam, which allows it to cut through the water with less resistance and achieve higher speeds.

Additionally, the boat has a relatively large sail area, which means that it can catch more wind and generate more power. The boat's hull shape is also optimized for speed, with a deep V-shaped hull that helps to reduce drag and increase stability. Deep-V hulls are one of the most stable boat hull designs .

The Seaward 25 is a swing-keeled sailboat that was designed by Hake Yachts and is popular among sailors who are looking for a versatile and easy-to-handle boat for both cruising and racing.

In addition to its swing keel, the Seaward 25 is also known for its spacious and comfortable interior. The boat has a large V-berth and a convertible dinette that can comfortably sleep up to four people. The boat also has a galley with a sink and a stove, as well as a private head with a marine toilet.

Another reason why the Seaward 25 is popular is because of its speed and maneuverability, making it a great choice for sailors who want to race or cruise at a fast pace. The boat is also relatively easy to handle so it can be sailed even by beginners.

The Islander Bahama 24 is a popular swing keel sailboat designed by Robert Finch and built by Islander Yachts from 1977 to 1982. It is a small, versatile sailboat that is great for day sailing, weekend cruising, and even racing.

The Bahama 24 has a spacious cockpit that can comfortably seat four people, and its interior is surprisingly roomy for a boat of its size. It has a V-berth forward, a dinette that converts into a double berth, and a quarter berth aft. There is also a small galley with a sink and a portable stove, as well as a marine head.

The Bahama 24 is a solid performer. It has a moderate sail area and a well-balanced rig, which makes it easy to handle in a variety of wind conditions. It is also known for its stability and its ability to sail close to the wind.

The Watkins 27 is a popular swing keel sailboat that was manufactured in the United States by Watkins Yachts from the mid-1970s to the early 1980s. It was designed by Walter Scott and is known for its spacious interior and good sailing performance.

The Watkins 27 has a length overall of 27 feet and a beam of 9 feet, 4 inches. It has a displacement of around 6,000 pounds. The boat has a spacious interior with a comfortable salon, galley, head, and sleeping accommodations for up to six people.

In terms of sailing performance, the Watkins 27 is known for being a good all-around performer. It has a moderate sail plan and a relatively low aspect ratio, which makes it easy to handle and forgiving for novice sailors. It is also a reasonably fast boat, with a reported top speed of around 7 knots.

The Com-Pac 23 is a popular swing keel sailboat that has been in production since the early 1980s. It is a versatile boat that can be used for cruising, racing, and day sailing. It is also a fast boat that can easily reach speeds of 6-7 knots in moderate winds.

The Com-Pac 23 has a spacious cockpit that can comfortably seat up to six people. The boat is also equipped with a cabin that can sleep up to four people and has a galley with a sink, stove, and icebox. The headroom in the cabin is generous for a boat of this size, and the layout is designed to maximize space and comfort.

The San Juan 23 is a popular swing keel sailboat that was first introduced in the early 1970s. It was designed by Bruce Kirby and built by Clark Boat Company in Kent, Washington. The boat was designed to be a versatile and affordable sailboat that could be used for cruising, racing, and day sailing.

Another feature that makes the San Juan 23 popular is its spacious cockpit and comfortable interior. The boat can accommodate up to four people and has a small galley, a head, and a V-berth. The cabin is well-ventilated and has plenty of natural light, making it a comfortable place to spend time below deck.

The San Juan 23 is a fast and responsive sailboat. It has a sail area-to-displacement ratio of 18.8, which means that it can achieve high speeds even in light winds. The boat is also very stable, which makes it easy to handle in rough conditions.

The West Wight Potter 19 is a popular swing keel sailboat that has been in production since the early 1970s. It is known for its versatility, durability, and ease of use, making it a popular choice among sailors of all skill levels.

Aside from its swing keel, it also has a relatively wide beam and a low center of gravity, which helps to keep it stable in a variety of conditions. The cockpit is spacious and comfortable, with plenty of room for passengers and crew.

In terms of performance, the West Wight Potter 19 is not the fastest sailboat on the water, but it is known for its ability to handle a variety of conditions. The boat is easy to sail and can be handled by a single person, so it is great for solo sailors or couples.

The Montgomery 17 is a popular sailboat designed by Lyle C. Hess and built by Montgomery Marine Products. One of the unique features of this sailboat is its swing keel, which allows it to be easily transported on a trailer and launched in shallow waters.

The Montgomery 17 has a classic design with a cabin that can sleep up to four people. It has a simple rigging system that makes it easy to sail, even for beginners. The sailboat is also known for its durability and has been used for long-distance cruising and racing.

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8 Fascinating Facts About ‘Kokomo,' the Lightning-Fast 192-Foot Sailing Superyacht

Posted: March 15, 2024 | Last updated: March 15, 2024

2.-SY-Kokomo_Sailing_1-064

The 192-foot Kokomo was the second largest sloop in the world when it launched from New Zealand’s Alloy Yachts shipyard in 2010. It remains the largest fast-cruising sloop available for charter. The yacht’s commissioning owner Lang Walker (who died in January 2024) was a seasoned sailor who gave all three of his yachts the same name.

The first was a 131-foot sloop, which Walker replaced five years later with a 171-footer. The same day he took delivery of his 171-foot sloop, he placed an order for the third and final 192-foot Kokomo, which he planned to use for racing and cruising around the world. He also kept the same design team for all three yachts, with exterior and naval architecture by Ed Dubois and interior by UK’s RWD.

The reference to the yacht’s name has had different explanations over the years, ranging from the pseudonym of a composer whose music Walker played as a child to a nod to the Beach Boys’s song from their 1988 album Still Cruisin’, which references a fictional utopian island called Kokomo. The island fantasy was brought to life in 2011 when Walker acquired a private island in Fiji’s Great Astrolabe Reef and named it Kokomo.

Here are eight unknown facts about one of the most game-changing sailing yachts on the water.

You’re Going to Need a Bigger Boom

When Kokomo was launched, she was the second-largest sloop in the world and carried the largest set of sails made by Doyle Sails in New Zealand. The 23,971-square-foot asymmetric spinnaker is half the size of a professional football field, while the 9,688-square-foot mainsail needs a crane to lift it. Because of the gargantuan size of the sails, the designers entered a new era of spar and winch design, having to “reinvent” the deck equipment—winches, mast, boom, rigging and sails—to cope with the 31.6-ton load on the genoa sheet and 32-ton load on the main sheet clew. The 244-foot carbon mast is the largest ever made by Southern Spars.

A Hidden Lifting Keel

The yacht’s 130-ton lifting keel is one of its most impressive features, though it’s largely left to the imagination. The interior layout is carefully designed so that the keel structure remains hidden. Dubois Naval Architects positioned the keel box to come above the main deck, serving as a partial separation between the bridge and the main salon (see inset). Kokomo was only the second yacht to be fitted with a lifting a keel, the first being 246-foot M5 (ex-Mirabella V), the world’s largest single-masted sailing yacht. This innovative design shortens Kokomo’s 28.5-foot draft when the keel is fully extended, to just 15 feet for shallow waters.

Now You See It, Now You Don’t

Kokomo might be big on technology, but never at the expense of design. The wheelhouse has fold-down computer screens that conceal the navigation equipment when not in use, converting to beautiful carbon counter tops. This design sleight of hand transforms a highly technical area into a tony lounge. It’s a theme that extends to the foredeck, where the yacht’s two tenders are concealed in dedicated lockers. There’s also a fully retractable tender crane that launches the tenders from either side of the boat but disappears out of sight when guests are using the Jacuzzi. “The designated deck lockers were an advanced feature at the time of her launch,” says Wynne, adding that another bonus is that diesel tanks are fully available. “The tenders can be fueled onboard before launching.”

It Takes Just A Few Good Sailors

Kokomo can accommodate up to 10 crew in total, but theoretically it only takes two to sail—a helm person and a sail trimmer. That sounds almost impossible given the size and complexity of yacht. But all sails are controlled by joystick on the flybridge. And when the boat is in full-on racing mode, there are control stations on both sides, providing visibility of the sails. Thanks to the hydraulics system, the mainsail can be hoisted and lowered on a wireless remote control. Of course, maneuvers like stowing the massive genoa can never be automated. That’s a job for a half-dozen good sailors.

Art On Board

The hallway that leads to the owner’s cabin is lined with a mosaic tapestry made from sea glass woven together with wire. Backlit to create an unusual effect, it’s just one of the eclectic works of art that decorates the interior. The main salon also has a stunning and colorful work of glass art as another example.

Interior Matters

Kokomo is not all tech features. The yacht’s modern interiors combine dark wood floors and calming cream furnishings start in the main salon and continue across the five guest cabins. Penned by British studio Redman Whiteley Dixon, the design carefully wraps around the lifting keel without sacrificing or impeding on any interior guest space. The yacht accommodates up to 10 guests in a master suite, VIP, one double cabin and two twins. There are other accommodations for up to 10 crew. On the foredeck, the Jacuzzi brings another element of outdoor entertainment, bolstered by a sunken cockpit.

World Traveler

The mandate issued by Walker was to create a yacht that was a “quantum leap forward” from his previous yachts, with superior sailing characteristics and guest comfort. The mast’s height is too tall to sail through the Panama or Suez Canals, which meant it would have to be designed to sail around Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Hope to reach the Caribbean and Mediterranean. The maiden voyage took the yacht from the New Zealand shipyard to Australia, New Caledonia, the Solomon Islands, and Fiji. It also spent time at Walker’s private island (pictured above), also named Kokomo. The vessel has since spent many years exploring the Caribbean and Med. It’s based in both regions during the respective cruising seasons, with charters available through Cecil Wright.

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Jihadist and nuclear threat as African country tells US to leave amid Russian and Iranian gains

Supreme Court allows Texas to enforce immigration law

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Russia’s Backdoor to the Global Banking System Is Slamming Shut

Marjorie Taylor Greene voted against over $9.3 million in federal funding for her district. She's bragging about it anyway.

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Florida Could Fly Haitian Migrants To Martha’s Vineyard, DeSantis Warns

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Mike Johnson managed to do something Kevin McCarthy couldn’t: Ignore the far-right Republicans