yacht beiboot test

Yachting Monthly

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Best sailing boots: 9 of the best seaboots tested in Dutch sea trial

• Graham Snook
• October 7, 2020

Wherever and whenever you sail, sea boots are essential if you want the comfort of warm, dry feet. The Yachting Monthly team set about testing a range of options to find the best sailing boots on offer

Not many people like to think of sailing in heavy weather but the reality is that it happens. It has been said that there’s no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong choice of clothing, so unless you can guarantee your conditions will always be warm and sunny, sailing boots are an item of kit that everyone should have.

A good pair of sea boots should see you through many a night watch or wet and windy beat to windward. Quite aside from the obvious role of keeping your feet dry, the best sailing boots will need to cover a number of bases.

Read our guide to the newest models of sailing boots on the market right now

They need to be warm, comfortable and offer grip that you can trust, as well as being easy to get on and off during both day and night. It also helps if they can be folded down to make the most of the space in your kitbags.

In the interest of fairness, and simple curiosity, we also tried a pair of £10 Planet Plastic wellington boots, but as these weren’t designed for yachts and as it became immediately clear that they provided little grip on board, they were dispatched to a locker on the first day, not to reappear.

9 of the best sailing boots tried and tested

The boots weren’t as sticky as the others on test, slipping at 43° in the dry

Gill Tall Yachting Boot

**BEST BUDGET BUY**

SPECIFICATIONS

SIZE RANGE: UK/EU 5.5-13/39-48 | UPPER: Rubber | LINING: Polyester | SOLE: Rubber | GAITER: No

Reasons to buy

– Great value for money – Plenty of space for socks and comfort

Reasons to avoid

– Lacking design features and insulation

These boots are comfortable and easily the cheapest sea boot in our test. A shorter sailing boot variant is also available, and both come in junior sizes.

While they lack the design and features of the other boots on test, they were comfy, even if they weren’t as well insulated or the grip as sticky (43° in the dry).

There’s plenty of space in the boot’s toe box so toes don’t feel cramped and there is space for warm socks. They were easy enough to get on, but, like Le Chameau Alizé (below), the high leg might not fit everyone’s leg shape.

Where many of the other boots taper around the ankle to give a secure fit, these didn’t.

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The Michelin sole offered secure footing – 47° in the dry and 53° in the wet

LE CHAMEAU ALIZE SAILING BOOTS

SIZE RANGE: UK/EU 6-12/39-47 | UPPER: Natural rubber | LINING: Ponti | SOLE: Rubber | GAITER: Yes

– Soft and subtle for rubber boots – Good grip

– Slim fit on calves

If your calves are wide, getting these boots on could pose problems, which is a shame because they are good sailing boots. The rubber boots have a leg that is tall and narrow, with a small top gaiter.

We had the Ponti lining version, which didn’t provide much insulation, but they are available with a neoprene liner for an extra £20 on top of the £150 RRP.

The sole is made by Michelin and gave secure footing on board, slipping at 47° in the dry and 53° in the wet.

The rubber these sailing boots are made from is extremely supple and they were very comfortable – like wearing trainers. Because they were secure, they were more difficult to get off.

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After a disappointing start, the grip improved to 49° in the dry after a few days’ wear

DUBARRY ULTIMA SAILING BOOTS

SIZE RANGE: UK/EU 5-12/38-47 | UPPER: Leather | LINING: Gore-Tex | SOLE: Polyurethane/rubber | GAITER: No

– High quality boots – Soft, pliable leather

– Pricy

These all-leather upper sailing boots had a lovely quality to them. The leather was soft and pliable and the whole team agreed they were the best looking and felt beautiful.

They have a loop to help pull them on, as well as a stretch panel at the back and they are also available in ‘ExtraFit’ sizes for the wide calved among us.

Again, the grip was disappointing to begin with but improved after a few days’ wear to 49° in the dry and slightly more in the wet.

The leather, with the Gore-Tex lining gave plenty of insulation without too much bulk, although the fit was rather hit and miss with our test team.

Buy it now on Dubarry.com

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After initially disappointing grip results, the soles improved over time

DUBARRY CROSSHAVEN SAILING BOOTS

SIZE RANGE: UK/EU 5-12/38-47 | UPPER: Leather/ Gore-Tex/Cordura | LINING: Gore-Tex | SOLE: Polyurethane/rubber | GAITER: Yes

– Loads of features for comfort and ease of use – Great weather proofing

– Initial grip not great – Expensive

The large gaiter, with two retro reflective stripes, conceals handy leather tabs with finger holes to help pull these Gore-Tex-lined sailing boots on. They are very well made, as one would expect for the price.

The lower section of the sailing boot is leather with a protective rubber panel around the toe and heel of the foot, which also gives grip to kick them off easily.

The fit is a bit narrow, especially around the toes, but the soft insulated lining helps them fit well.

Initially the grip was 44° in the dry, but testing a worn pair (owned by one of our team) showed their grip improves over time.

Buy it now from Dubarry.com

They were very comfortable and the soles achieved good grip up to 53° in the dry

MUSTO OCEAN RACER SAILING BOOTS

SIZE RANGE: UK/EU 4-13/37-48 | UPPER: Synthetic/Cordura | LINING: Gore-Tex | SOLE: Gripdeck rubber | GAITER: Yes

– Unique lacing system makes for a great fit – Great grip in dry and wet

– Fairly bulky – Gaiter toggle can get in the way

These sailing boots were very comfortable with good grip to 53° in the dry. They are the top-of-the-range boots from Musto and have a unique elasticated lacing system.

This gives the sailing boots a snug fit around the leg, although we thought this could have been more useful if it continued further down to the ankle or the foot.

The Cordura gaiters are good, but the toggle at the back digs in if you’re helming with your calves resting against a surface.

There’s a fabric loop at the rear of the boot to aid getting them on, but it’s a bit fiddly to use. In spite of their bulk, these sailing boots gained praise from our testers.

Buy it now via Musto

The bouncy soles absorb impact well and offered the best grip on test

ZHIK ZK SEABOOT

**BEST ON TEST**

SIZE RANGE: UK/EU 5-12/38-47 | UPPER: Rubber/neoprene | LINING: Merino/neoprene | SOLE: Rubber | GAITER: Yes

– Very warm and very comfortable – Gaiters to keep out water

– Style might not appeal to all

The bold branding might not be for everyone, but these sailing boots had the best grip on test (54° dry, 53° wet) even if they did squeak annoyingly against the deck.

They were warm and extremely comfortable, thanks in part to the Merino lining and bouncy soles that absorb impact.

The gaiters were good, although the toggles on the inner leg catch each other unless they are tucked in. There were good handles on the front and rear of the leg to help get them on and off.

The neoprene helps to keep them light and easy to stow. If your mid-foot is high, you may find the fit a bit tight. Zhik also offers a sailing boot without the gaiter.

The team were impressed with the grip, which slipped at 52° in both wet and dry conditions

GILL PERFORMANCE RACE BOOTS

SIZE RANGE: UK/EU 5.5-11/39-46 | UPPER: Synthetic | LINING: Soft-touch polyester | SOLE: Thermoplastic polyurethane | GAITER: No

– Useful side handles with which to pull boots on – Very good grip

– Side handles add bulk

The team agreed these warm, breathable sailing boots from Gill were good and solid. The leg of the boot did feel stiff, but softer than the Henri Lloyd boot and it may well soften more in time.

The large side handles (one on each side) add bulk, but make getting them on easy, while the prominent wedge on the heel makes removing them easy by catching it under the toe of the other foot without damaging them.

The leg of the sailing boot is fabric with protective areas around the ankles, while the base/outsole is moulded TPU.

The sole had a good grip and offered a reading of 52° in both wet and dry before it slipped.

The soles feature a razor-cut grip which didn’t inspire much confidence

HENRI-LLOYD SHADOW SAILING BOOTS

SIZE RANGE: UK/EU 4-12/37-47 | UPPER: Leather/Cordura | LINING: Dri-Lex | SOLE: Dual compound | GAITER: No

– Good wet grip – Good insulation

– Initially very stiff

The team found these sailing boots were stiff, and while they would soften with time, until then you’ll have to deal with an aggressive leather edge on the top.

On the plus side, they do have a good loop on the rear to make it easier to pull them on.

The soles feature a razor-cut grip which didn’t inspire confidence to start with, confirmed by a dry reading of 45°, but a better angle of 48° in the wet.

They have good insulation and are well made, although the lack of a heel kick was a shame. The ankle of the boot did have a tendency to dig in a little while kneeling down on deck.

The suction-cup design on the sole gave 50° grip in the dry and 54° in the wet

LE CHAMEAU NEPTUNE SAILING BOOTS

SIZE RANGE: UK/EU 6-12/39-47 | UPPER: Rubber | LINING: Neoprene | SOLE: Rubber | GAITER: Yes RRP: £290

– Very good grip – Great at keeping water out

– Gaiter toggle can get in the way – Socks tend to get pulled off when removing your foot

As worn by Volvo Ocean Race crews, these are serious sailing boots. The neoprene liner provides insulation while the suction-cup design on the sole gives good grip: 50° in the dry, 54° in the wet.

There’s raw rubber inside the boot around the heel to grip feet snugly, although it also gripped socks, managing to pull them down inside the boot.

They have a well-drained gaiter that stops the Velcro on oilskin trousers from coming undone and helps keep water out.

The toggle at the back of the gaiter, however, digs into your leg when you’re kneeling down.

Buy it now on lechameau.com

CONCLUSION: WHICH SAILING BOOTS PERFORMED BEST?

The cost will be a big consideration, with £284 covering the difference between the cheapest and the most expensive. For value for money, no other sailing boots on test could compete with the Gill Tall Yachting Boot . The fact they come in short or tall and sizes down to UK size 4 only adds to their appeal.

The Chameau Alizé is a good mid-range boot, as is the Gill Performance, but spending a little more will get you boots with gaiters.

The Musto sailing boots were extremely good, although they were pricey, and for that reason they were pipped to the top spot by the Zhik ZK Seaboot , which had the best grip, good gaiters, were warm and comfortable to spend the day in, and are easy to put on and take off.

All the boots were put through a rigorous wet and dry incline test.

HOW WE TESTED THE SAILING BOOTS

The sailing boots were initially tested over a three-day sailing trip in Dutch waters.While our evenings below decks were warm, the temperature during the day was bitterly cold.

The boots were worn by the YM test team and swapped regularly so we all got a chance to wear different boots as we went about our different roles on board, in both rain and shine.

The sailing boots were then subjected to a wet and dry incline test on the bathing platform of the Bestevaer 45ST Pure , which we could adjust by winching the halyard attached to the end.

After the initial test, the team then wore the sailing boots that fitted them best over the season and reported back.

Some manufacturers do produce boots specifically for female sailors, but most of the sailing boots we tested were unisex and came in a wide range of sizes for both men and women.

All photos: Graham Snook Photography

Didn’t find what you’re looking for? Head to Amazon’s dedicated sailing page for more marine products.

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Das Beiboot/Dingi – Größe, Typ, Material, Motorisierung und Zubehör

Ein beitrag von.

Sönke Roever

Sönke hat 100.000 Seemeilen Erfahrung im Kielwasser und von 2007 bis 2010 zusammen mit seiner Frau Judith die Welt umsegelt. Er veranstaltet diverse Seminare auf Bootsmessen (siehe unter Termine) und ist Autor der Bücher "Blauwassersegeln kompakt", "1200 Tage Samstag" und "Auszeit unter Segeln". Sönke ist zudem der Gründer von BLAUWASSER.DE und regelmäßig mit seiner Frau Judith und seinen Kindern auf der Gib'Sea 106 - HIPPOPOTAMUS - unterwegs.

Das Beiboot

Während einer Blauwasserreise wird in der Regel häufig geankert. Egal ob in der Karibik, der Südsee oder an der europäischen Küste. Ankerplätze gibt es wie Sand am Meeresboden, und das bringt eine unglaubliche Freiheit mit sich. Um diese Freiheit genießen zu können, brauchen wir eine Möglichkeit, um an Land zu gelangen und genau das gelingt mit dem Beiboot. Deshalb ist es einer der wichtigsten Ausrüstungsgegenstände an Bord einer Blauwasser-Yacht.

Wer sich an den Blauwasserplätzen weltweit umschaut, wird schnell feststellen, dass nahezu jede Crew — und das ist keine Übertreibung — auf ein Schlauchboot setzt, um an Land zu gelangen. Natürlich gibt es Alternativen wie ein faltbares Bananaboot, ein klassisches Ruderboot oder auch eher im Ausland verbreitete Varianten mit Markennamen wie Portland Pudgy, Walker Bay oder OC-Tender.  Allerdings spielen diese Beiboot-Typen in der deutschsprachigen Blauwasserszene eine untergeordnete Rolle. Sie werden daher in diesem Beitrag nicht weiter betrachtet.

Beiboot-Größe

Grundsätzlich gilt natürlich irgendwie der Gedanke „je größer das Beiboot ist, desto besser ist das“. Ist es groß genug, können damit mehrere Personen befördert und viel transportiert werden. Egal ob es sich dabei um Trinkwasser, Lebensmittel oder Treibstoff handelt. Außerdem liegt ein größeres Beiboot besser auf dem Wasser und nimmt bei einer Fahrt gegen Wind und Welle weniger Wasser über. Und nicht zuletzt kann man so einen „Großraum-Tender“ stärker motorisieren, was uns wiederum a) schneller zum Ziel bringt und b) eine größere Reichweite beschert (vom Treibstoffverbrauch mal abgesehen).

Während Kurzstrecken-Segler das Schlauchboot zwischen den Häfen manchmal am Heck hinterher ziehen, müssen Blauwassersegler das Schlauchboot vor einer Überfahrt verstauen. Die Kehrseite der Medaille „groß“ ist daher der Lager- und Aufbauplatz. Was nützt das größte Schlauchboot der Welt, wenn es an Bord nirgendwo verstaut, geschweige denn aufgebaut werden kann? Es über den Ozean am Heck hinterherzuziehen, ist zumindest keine Option.

Das Thema „Aufbauen und Lagern“ wird beim Beiboot-Kauf übrigens gern außer Acht gelassen. Sofern der Tender nicht in Davits hängt — und das werden die wenigsten machen, weil dann keine Windfahnensteueranlage mehr angebaut werden kann — sollte daher vor dem Beiboot-Kauf ausgemessen werden, wie viel Platz auf dem Vordeck, dem Achterdeck oder unter dem Großbaum auf der Kajüte vorhanden ist, um das Beiboot aufzubauen. Andernfalls kann es unterwegs eine böse Überraschung geben. Katamaran-Eigner können sich diese Aufgabe selbstverständlich sparen.

Beiboot-Typ

Schlauchboote gibt es mit und ohne festen Boden. Ein fester Boden hat den Vorteil, dass der Tender stabiler ist und folglich auch schneller ins Gleiten kommt. Dafür kann ein Schlauchboot mit Festboden nicht so platzsparend verstaut werden. Genau genommen wird so ein Beiboot nur auf größeren Schiffen eingesetzt, weil es dort ausreichend Platz gibt, um es an Deck zu stauen, wenn längere Seestrecken anstehen. Auf Megayachten kommt das Schlauchboot auch schon mal mit Innenborder und angebauten Positionslampen daher.

Wie vorstehend erwähnt, ist das Bananaboot eine andere Variante, die sich ebenfalls platzsparend an Bord fahren lässt. Seinen Namen hat das Faltboot erhalten, weil es im zusammengeklappten Zustand an eine Banane erinnert. Wir persönlich halten Bananaboote für zu kippelig, um sie auf einer Blauwasserreise einzusetzen. Was vielleicht auch mit ein Grund ist, warum unser Bananaboot seit Jahren im Schuppen steht und wir stattdessen immer wieder unser Schlauchboot hervorholen, wenn ein Törn ansteht. Auch ist die Motorisierung eines Bananabootes nicht ganz einfach. Denn wenn wir über größere PS-Zahlen reden, gibt es keine geeignete Motor-Halterung für diesen Tender. Der Hersteller gibt fünf PS als Maximum an.

Müsste ich ein 0815-Blauwasser-Schlauchboot beschreiben, käme Folgendes dabei heraus: Länge: 2,5 bis 3 Meter. Boden: Aufblasbar mit festen Bodenbrettern darüber. Material: Hypalon. Mit anderen Worten: Das Boot kann relativ klein zusammengefaltet werden — sofern mit dem Blasebalg die letzte Luft aus ihm herausgeholt wird. Und es kann mittels des festen Einsteckbodens so verstärkt werden, dass es stabil in der See liegt.

Beiboot-Material

Hypalon ist in der Blauwasserszene als Material weit verbreitet. Dabei handelt es sich um einen äußerst strapazierfähigen und UV-beständigen Schlauchboot-Werkstoff, der auch CSM genannt wird. Aufgrund seiner Eigenschaften ist Hypalon die erste Wahl aller Crews, deren Törn in die Tropen führt. Natürlich sind Schlauchboote aus so einem Material teurer in der Anschaffung. Allerdings rechnet sich ihr Kauf über die Langlebigkeit und den damit verbundenen Wiederverkaufswert.

Wichtig: Für die Reparatur von Hypalon-Schlauchbooten wird ein spezieller Kleber benötigt.

Motorisierung

Die Motorisierung des Beibootes sollte generell so beschaffen sein, dass alle Personen auch über längere Strecken und gegebenenfalls auch gegen den Wind gut an Land und zurück gelangen können. Zudem müssen mit dem Dinghy nicht selten Einkäufe, Diesel, Wasser oder andere Dinge transportiert werden. Von Ausflügen zu Tauchplätzen ganz zu schweigen. Wer gern taucht, kommt um ein gut motorisiertes Schlauchboot, mit dem auch längere Strecken zurückgelegt werden können, nicht herum.

Die Motorisierung des Beibootes erfolgt in der Regel über einen Außenborder. Er sollte mindestens fünf PS haben. Darunter kann es bei Wind und Welle von vorn eng werden. Wir hatten auf unserer Langfahrt zunächst fünf und später acht PS am Schlauchboot hängen. Was für ein Unterschied! Wenn nur einer von uns im Beiboot saß, kam man mit acht PS immer ins Gleiten. Was ein riesiger Vorteil ist, weil das Boot ruhig liegt, doppelt so schnell ist und die Sache auch ziemlich Spaß macht. Zu zweit hat es mit dem Gleiten bei acht PS nicht immer geklappt. Das hing sehr von der Welle, dem Wind und der Zuladung ab. Ohne Gleiten wurde so manche Fahrt zu Tauchspots lang. Es macht eben einen Unterschied, ob man mit fünf oder zehn Knoten unterwegs ist.

Leider, wenn auch aus Umwelt-Sicht sehr sinnvoll, wurden Zwei-Takt-Außenborder vom Markt genommen. Ihr großer Vorteil ist, dass sie nicht so viel wiegen wie die nun gängigen Viertakt-Motoren. Und das wiederum hat es deutlich einfacher gemacht, sie vom Heckkorb zum Dinghy zu bekommen. Das ist aber auch ihr einziger Vorteil.

Der Vorteil des Viertakters ist vor allem, dass er ohne Gemisch — also die Zugabe von Öl zum Treibstoff — auskommt. Das macht die Sache sehr einfach. Nicht so beim Zweitakter. Er muss bei längeren Einsatzpausen leergefahren werden, da der Vergaser sonst verharzt. Das geht so: Entweder bei laufendem Motor im Leerlauf den Benzinhahn zudrehen oder aber den Schlauch vom Tank am Motor abziehen (geht nur bei Benutzung eines externen Tanks). Der Motor läuft dann solange weiter, bis er das Benzin aus dem Vergaser gesaugt hat. Das ist wichtig, da andernfalls mit der Zeit das Benzin im Vergaser verdampft und die zurückbleibenden Ölreste aus dem Gemisch den Vergaser verkleben.

Ich muss zugeben, dass ich das Thema während unserer Weltumsegelung nicht so ernst genommen habe. Während der Atlantiküberquerung ist es dann passiert. Nach der Ankunft in der Karibik mussten wir einen neuen Vergaser einbauen lassen, weil der alte in den wenigen Wochen zwischen Europa und Amerika verharzt war.

Außenborder mit externem Tank

Für den Treibstoff würde ich immer einen Außenborder mit externem Tank wählen. Zum einen ist der Motor leichter beim Heben, zum anderen muss seltener nachgetankt werden. Was nebenbei bemerkt oft vorkommt, da das Beiboot in der Regel viel benutzt wird. Egal, ob die Fahrt zum Einkaufen an Land oder zum Sundowner ins Nachbar-Cockpit führt. Auch ist das Nachkippen des Benzins nicht gerade einfach, wenn Seegang herrscht, das Schlauchboot schaukelt und der Motor am Beiboot hängt. Ein externer Tank kann hingegen bequem im Cockpit gefüllt werden.

Nun war hier die ganze Zeit von benzinbetriebenen Außenbordern die Rede. Natürlich sind inzwischen auch Elektromotoren in der Blauwasserszene zu finden. Grundsätzlich ist das eine interessante Alternative. Allerdings gilt es auch hier genauso darauf zu achten, dass das Beiboot nicht untermotorisiert ist und die zugehörige Batteriekapazität eine Reichweite von mindestens einer Stunde Fahrzeit bei Volllast garantiert. Auch muss man sich darüber Gedanken machen, wie die zugehörigen Batterien unkompliziert wieder geladen werden können.

Beiboot-Schloss gegen Diebstahl

Schlauchboote und Außenbordmotoren sind begehrte Diebstahlobjekte und nichts ist ärgerlicher als ihr Verschwinden. Wie soll dann — je nach Ort und Infrastruktur — schnell Ersatz beschafft werden, und wie soll dafür zwischen Land und Schiff hin- und hergefahren werden, wenn der fahrbare Untersatz fehlt? Mit anderen Worten: Das Beiboot gehört an Land an ein Schloss. Sein Beiboot zu verlieren, ist ein riesiges Ärgernis.

Zum Anschließen des Beibootes hat es sich bewährt, einen Draht, der die doppelte Beibootlänge hat, mit zwei gepressten Augen einzusetzen. Das eine Auge wird mittels eines Schlosses am rückwärtigen Querbrett des Schlauchbootes befestigt und durch den Außenborder-Griff, den Tankgriff und einige Kauschen am Boot zur Pier geführt. Dort wird es mit dem anderen Ende mit einem zweiten Schloss gesichert. Auf diesem Wege werden Motor und Tank gleich mit angeschlossen. Wir nutzen einen 8-Millimeter-Draht, da braucht es schon einen kräftigen Bolzenschneider, um das Boot zu »befreien«.

Hahnepot zum Hochziehen des Beibootes

Nachts sollte das Schlauchboot aus dem Wasser gehoben werden — entweder mit ohnehin vorhandenen Davits oder alternativ an einem Fall über einen Hahnepot. Ein Haken kommt an den Bug und je einer Back- und Steuerbord an das Heck des Schlauchbootes. Daher sollte bei der Anschaffung des Beibootes darauf geachtet werden, dass stabile Augen vorhanden sind, an denen ein solcher Hahnepot eingehakt werden kann.

Wem das Liften aus dem Wasser mittels mechanischer Winsch zu anstrengend ist, dem sei folgende Alternative genannt. Sofern an Bord eine elektrische Ankerwinde mit Trommel für Tauwerk installiert wurde, kann unter Umständen ein Fall zur Winde umgeleitet werden. Bei uns ist es beispielsweise das Ersatz-Fockfall. So wird das Schlauchboot automatisch auf Knopfdruck an der Bordwand nach oben geholt. Dort wird es abschließend mit einer Vor- und Achterleine gesichert. Auch helfen zwei Fender zwischen Schlauchboot und Schiff. In dieser Position ist es nahezu unmöglich, das Schlauchboot zu entwenden.

Beiboot-Anker

Nicht immer ist eine Möglichkeit gegeben das Beiboot an Land festzumachen – beispielsweise wenn man zum Tauchen fährt und das Beiboot vor Anker legen möchte. Und es steht auch nicht an jedem Strand eine Palme zum Anbinden. In solchen Momenten ist es hilfreich, wenn man sein Beiboot mit einem kleinen Anker sichern kann.

Am häufigsten haben wir den Anker allerdings benötigt, um in einer Legerwall-Situation zu verhindern, dass unser Schlauchboot kaputtscheuert. Denn nicht selten kommt es vor, dass mit dem Beiboot an einer Pier oder einem Steg festgemacht wird, an dem auflandiger Wind weht. Dann muss vermieden werden, dass das Schlauchboot den ganzen Tag — beispielsweise während eine Inselrundfahrt unternommen wird — an der Pier scheuert, weil Wind und Wellen es immer wieder dagegen oder sogar darunter schieben. Früher oder später gibt dann auch das stärkste Hypalon nach. In so einer Legerwall-Situation muss das Dinghy mit einem Heckanker von der Pier ferngehalten werden.

In der Regel kommt ein kleiner Falt-Anker mit vier Fluken zum Einsatz. Ein Kettenvorlauf hilft (zwei Meter reichen), muss aber nicht zwingend sein. Wichtiger ist, dass die Leine ein wenig Reck hat, damit das Beiboot zur Pier gezogen werden kann, ohne den Anker wieder auszugraben.

Beiboot-Räder

In Gewässern mit Tidenhub oder auch Gebieten mit flachen langen Sandstränden können Schlauchboot-Räder eine sehr sinnvolle Hilfe sein. Gerade Boote mit einem festen Boden wiegen schnell über 60 Kilogramm und lassen eine Zweier-Crew beim Tragen schon mal an die eigenen Grenzen gelangen.

Auch wenn diese Räder am Boot eher bescheiden aussehen, sind sie sehr nützlich. Am Strand angekommen, werden sie kurz heruntergeklappt und das Boot samt Motor auf den Strand gerollt. Wir hatten keine Räder und haben so manches Mal fluchend das Beiboot geschleppt, gezogen oder gezerrt! Das würden wir beim nächsten Mal anders machen.

Beiboot-Beleuchtung

Zumindest ein weißes Rundumlicht sollte bei nächtlichen Fahrten geführt werden. Insbesondere in den Tropen wird es früh dunkel und beim Sundowner auf der einen oder anderen Yacht auch mal ein wenig später. Nicht selten haben wir uns gewundert, wie viele Beiboote nach Sonnenuntergang im Dunkel der tropischen Nacht zwischen den Yachten hin und her sausen.

Durch den Motorlärm auf dem eigenen Beiboot werden andere Beiboote nicht gehört, wenn sie sich nähern. Und ein Zusammenstoß ist alles andere als witzig — insbesondere bei Gleitfahrt. Daher gehört nachts auf jedes fahrende Beiboot ein weißes Rundumlicht.

Erstaunlicherweise ist das zumindest theoretisch jedem klar, doch in der Praxis hält sich kaum jemand daran. Noch ein Grund mehr, selbst eines zu fahren.

Das Beiboot ist ein unverzichtbarer Ausrüstungsgegenstand auf einer Blauwasseryacht. Es schafft Freiheit und Unabhängigkeit. Daher ist es ratsam, sich ausgiebig mit dem treuen Begleiter vor der Abfahrt auseinanderzusetzen. Ich hoffe, dass die vorstehenden Ausführungen dazu beitragen, die richtige Wahl hinsichtlich Größe, Typ, Material, Motorisierung und Zubehör zu treffen.

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Mercury marine außenborder, mercury avator e-außenborder.

Ich bin immer noch überrascht, dass auf unzähligen Fotos das Takacat Dingi nicht zu sehen ist. Ich habe mir das Modell 260 angeschafft, mit dem Dingi-Tuner von Prof. Armin Horn auch einen superleichten und leistungsfähigen Elektroantrieb gekauft. Die Vorteile des Takacat sind, dass gegenüber den üblichen Gummiwürsten, es viel weniger Widerstand gibt. Obwohl ein offener Bug vorliegt, nimmt es kaum mehr Spritzwasser auf als die Üblichen. Als ‘Katamaran’ gebaut ist es auch ausserordentlich kippstabil und kommt einiges früher ins Gleiten. Beim Baden aufs Böötchen zu gelangen ist einfach, mann liegt auf den Bug und rutscht einfach rein. Keine Klimmzüge um …  Mehr lesen »

Moin, ich vermisse die Umweltkritik am 2Takter. Leider merkt man beim AB den Gestank ja nicht, da die Abgase/ Giftstoffe im WasserWasser gelöst bleiben. Hier ein kurzer Ausschnitt zum Thema Umwelt. Die Zweitakter-EmissionenKrafträder mit Zweitaktmotoren, die mit Benzin-Öl-Gemisch fahren, stoßen 124 Mal so viele gesundheitsschädliche Kohlenwasserstoffe (u.a. das krebserregende Benzol) und 771 Mal so viele organische Aerosole (Feinstaub) aus wie Viertakter. Dies hat eine von internationalen Forscherteams am Paul Scherrer Institut (Villigen, Schweiz) durchgeführte Studie aus dem Jahr 2014 ergeben. Im Leerlauf sind die Feinstaub-Abgas-Emissionen der Zweitakter dabei vergleichbar mit denen im Lastbetrieb. Besonders bedenklich ist der Ausstoß von Benzol im Leerlauf …  Mehr lesen »

Hallo Sönke, ein wichtiger Artikel. Um so mehr finde ich es Schade, dass die Gelegenheit einen neuen deutschen Hersteller von festen Tendern vorzustellen. Vielleicht liegt es ja daran, dass im Artikel alles aus dem Monohull Blickwinkel betrachtet wurde. Außerdem kurze Akutstatistik Puerto Mogan und Tazacorte auf den Kanaren: 7 von 10 Monohull-Yachten haben Davits am Heck ganz zu schweigen von 100% der Kats. lnsoweit sollte doch über die Vorteile eines festen Tenders aus Karbon gesprochen werden. Unser AST Tender 340 wiegt nur 34kg sodass ihn meine Frau alleine an den Strand ziehen kann zB. Wenn sie mit dem Hund den …  Mehr lesen »

mal was für Leute die Ihr Dingi alleine 45 kg + Motor 43 kg alleine an land ziehen wollen. Ein Bolzen Technik aus Australien kopiert mit beachwheels …

leider kann man hier keine Fotos einfügen

Ich möchte zu diesem Beitrag auch eine Erfahrung teilen. Wir haben ein Bananaboot 260 und einen Torquedo 1003 als E-Antrieb. Mit dem normalen Heckspiegel wird das Heck des Bananabootes durch das Gewicht vom Akku unter die Wasserlinie gezogen, wenn nicht am Bug ein Gegengewicht platziert wird (Anker, Person, etc.). Beim Trimmheck (für Gleitfahrt) geht es etwas besser, jedoch ist die Anbringung des Trimmhecks recht fummelig, benötigt Zeit und Platz. So ist auch unser Bananaboot weitgehend ungenutzt und wir pumpen lieber schnell das Schlauchboot auf. Dies hat kein Problem mit dem Torquedo und ist auch ähnlich schnell. Das Bananaboot kommt nur …  Mehr lesen »

Hatte mich auch gerade intensiv mit dem Thema auseinandergesetzt – und mich für ein ‘normales’ PVC Dingi (Quicksilver, 3m mit Aluboden) entschieden. Mit Chaps und Wheels knapp ein Drittel des Preises eines (Hifield) Hypalon Bootes. Da es ja auch passieren kann dass das Dingi von Bord geklaut wird sollte man es da auch anschliessen

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Beiboot-Test : 10 Schlauchboote im Vergleich

Jan-Ole Puls

, Michael Rinck

, Hauke Schmidt

 ·  12.07.2023

• Hier geht es zu den Testergebnissen im Detail

Spätestens wenn der Anker fällt, wird auf vielen Motoryachten das Beiboot aus der Backskiste hervorgeholt und aufgepumpt. Auf der typischen Bootsgröße zwischen 30 und 40 Fuß ist ein aufblasbares Schlauchboot meistens am praktischsten, es sei denn, es sind Davits oder genug Platz an Deck für ein Festrumpfdingi vorhanden. Die aufblasbare Variante kann die vermeintlichen Widersprüche von geringem Packmaß versus gutem Platzangebot im Boot sowie geringem Gewicht versus hoher Kippstabilität vereinen. Darum ist sie so verbreitet. Besonders die Größe um 2,50 Meter Länge passt auf vielen Booten gepackt gerade noch in die Backskiste und bietet dennoch genug Transportvolumen für eine kleine Crew.

Aber auch wenn die kleinen Schlauchboote sich ähneln, gibt es große Unterschiede. Diese zeigen sich besonders deutlich in der Konstruktion des Bodens. Die einfachste Variante ist eine Folie zwischen den Schläuchen, die für einen besseren Stand im Boot mit eingelegten Brettern versteift wird. Dennoch ist diese Konstruktion eher instabil und bildet keine V-Form im Unterwasserbereich. Hier sind die Modelle mit einem Hochdruckboden folglich im Vorteil.

Der Hochdruckboden im Schlauchboot

Der Hochdruckboden bietet besseren Stand und formt durch einen Kielschlauch das Unterwasserschiff. Das im Drop-Stitch-Verfahren gefertigte Teil ähnelt in der Bauweise einem SUP und wird in das Beiboot eingelegt. Schöner Nebeneffekt: Der Hohlraum mit dem Kielschlauch zwischen Unterwasserschifffolie und Hochdruckboden fungiert als Bilge. Hier sammelt sich Regen- oder Spritzwasser und die Füße bleiben beim Schritt ins Beiboot trocken.

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Dieser Vorteil entfällt bei der zweiten Variante des Hochdruckbodens – dem 3-D-Luftboden oder Hochdruck-V-Boden. Dieser ist von sich aus v-förmig und Teil der Rumpfkonstruktion, wird also nicht separat eingelegt. Vorteil: ein Teil weniger und leichterer Aufbau. Nachteil: Es gibt durch die V-Form zwei schräge Flächen im Boot und keinen geraden Boden. Zudem bildet sich mittig schnell eine Wasserpfütze.

Aus der Gruppe mit Bodenbrettern sind drei Beiboote im Test: jeweils ein Modell von Plastimo, Seatec (die Hausmarke von SVB) und Yamaha. Diese Dingis sind meistens günstiger. In der Gruppe mit Hochdruckboden sind sechs Modelle dabei. Jeweils eines von Osculati, Plastimo, Seatec, Talamex, Yachticon und Yamaha. In dieser Gruppe haben die Boote von Plas-timo und Seatec einen 3-D-Luftboden.

Unterschiede der Bodenkonstruktion

Einen Sonderfall bildet das EZ Raft aus den Niederlanden. Es lässt sich keiner Gruppe zuordnen, sein Rumpf besteht aus drei Schläuchen und ähnelt einem Trimaran. Auf dem mittleren Schlauch nimmt man zum Rudern Platz. Es gibt also keinen Innenraum wie bei den anderen Booten. Dafür läuft Regenwasser einfach ab. Der große Vorteil des EZ Raft ist sein geringes Gewicht und das extrem kleine Packmaß.

Die Ausstattung der Beiboote

Die wesentlichen Kriterien im Test sind Rudern, Motorfahrt und Schleppen. Bevor es aber aufs Wasser ging, haben wir Abmessungen und Gewicht ermittelt. Dabei zeigt sich auch die unterschiedliche Ausstattung. Angefangen mit Kleinigkeiten wie dem Reparaturset, in dem außer Flicken, Kleber und einem Ventilschlüssel häufig etwas fehlte. So beim Beiboot von Osculati, Talamex und Yachticon. Bei den Pumpen hat das Talamex als Einziges eine Standpumpe mit Doppelhub, alle anderen eine Fußpumpe. Die meisten auch mit der Möglichkeit, den Hub zu reduzieren und dann mit mehr Druck zu pumpen. Nur die Modelle von Yamaha haben eine noch einfachere Fußpumpe.

Stimmt die Qualität der Pumpe nicht, kann es schon schwer werden, den vom Hersteller empfohlenen Druck auf die Tubes zu bringen. Der Druck lässt sich nur per Manometer prüfen, das war beim Plas­timo Fun, dem Seatec Aerotend und dem Yamaha 240 Air dabei. Ein Trick, auch mit nicht so kräftiger Pumpe auf den gewünschten Druck zu kommen, ist, das Beiboot noch mal ordentlich aufzupumpen, wenn es kühl ist, also etwa abends. Dann wird es in der Sonne durch die Erwärmung der Luft im Schlauch prall.

Griffe und Scheuerleisten

Wie wesentlich auch kleine Ausstattungsmerkmale sein können, zeigte sich beim Plastimo Fun PI230 VB, es verfügt weder über eine Festmacherleine noch über Griffe. Das Boot ins Wasser zu heben und dabei nur die seitlichen Griffleinen nutzen zu können ist schon unpraktisch. Die Mehrzahl der Modelle lässt sich besser anheben, die meisten Griffe hat das EZ Raft mit 31 Griffschlaufen. Diese und die Verstärkungen an der Scheuerleiste und unter den Kielen sind bei dieser Konstruktion aus Gurtband von Sicherheitsgurten aus dem Automobilbereich gefertigt.

Auch die anderen Dingis haben größtenteils Scheuerleisten und Verstärkungen am Kiel. Letztere schonen das Material, wenn das Boot auf den Strand gezogen wird. Die Scheuerleiste erfüllt bei vielen Dingis einen doppelten Nutzen: Sie ist auf der unteren Seite mit einer Spritzschutzlippe versehen. Diese stoppt beim Osculati, Sea-tec Aerotend, Talamex und Yachticon 250 AMF das während der Fahrt hochspritzende Wasser.

Die Stabilität der Schlauchboote

Sobald es mit dem Schlauchboot aufs Wasser geht, ist die Stabilität wichtig. Kann man einfach an Bord steigen, oder ist es so kippelig, dass besondere Vorsicht nötig ist? Entscheidend für eine sichere Schwimmlage mit viel aufrichtendem Moment sind die Bootsbreite und der Schlauchdurchmesser. Je größer, desto sicherer. Das Talamex bekommt in dieser Disziplin Bestnoten.

Aber auch das Modell von Yachticon, von Osculati und das Plastimo Raid II P240 können überzeugen. Letzteres besonders, weil es selbst im Bugbereich noch sehr breit ist. Eine Besonderheit stellen die Modelle mit Hochdruck-V-Boden als Teil der Rumpfkonstruktion dar. Hier erzeugt der Boden selbst recht viel Auftrieb und ist seitlich aufgrund der Bauweise mit einer Kante ausgestattet, wodurch die Boote recht kippelig werden. Besonders auffällig ist das beim Plastimo Fun.

Gute und schlechte Details

So rudern sich die Schlauchboote

Beim Rudern ist zuerst eine gute Sitzposition wichtig. Dabei ist der Abstand der Bank vom Spiegel und den Ruderdollen entscheidend. Dann folgen die Riemen: passt die Länge, die Größe der Blätter? Zu kurze Riemen sorgen für einen krummen Rücken, mit zu langen stößt man beim Pullen gegen die eigenen Knie. Dann sind natürlich die Manövriereigenschaften besonders spannend, dabei die Geradeausfahrt und möglichst wenig Drift in Kurven. Am besten ruderten sich die Modelle von Osculati und Talamex. Bei Letzterem sind die Riemen aber etwas schmal, weswegen wir sie testweise mit denen von Osculati getauscht hatten. Das ging viel besser.

Das Yamaha 240 T hatte eine ziemlich buglastige Schwimmlage, wodurch es sich nur mit hohem Kraftaufwand rudern ließ. Beim Seatec Nemo war das ähnlich, hier kam über den Bug auch recht viel Spritzwasser ins Boot. Beim Modell 250 AMF von Yachticon war eine Öse für die seitliche Griffleine genau so angebracht, dass die Riemen bei jedem Zug dagegenstießen. Das ist schade, denn sonst konnte das Boot überzeugen. Das EZ Raft nimmt hier wieder eine Sonderstellung ein. Die Sitzposition ist nicht besonders bequem, es gibt keine Bank, man sitzt oben auf dem mittleren Tube. Immerhin können die Füße auf dem etwas weiter unten angebrachten Spiegel abgestützt werden, so kann zumindest Kraft beim Pullen aufgebaut werden. Die Riemen sind per Gurtband befestigt und zweimal teleskopierbar.

So können sie am gepackten Boot verbleiben, was Zeit beim Auf- und Abbauen spart. Das Pullen geht, ist jedoch nicht mit der Sitzposition in den anderen Beibooten vergleichbar. Mit den sehr großen Luftschläuchen bietet das EZ Raft aber eine sehr hohe Stabilität.

Welches Beiboot schafft Gleitfahrt mit Motor?

Bei Tests unter Motor war die entscheidende Frage: Kommt das Beiboot ins Gleiten? Dafür nutzten wir einen Außenborder von Yamaha mit 4 PS. Mit einem kleinen Elek­troantrieb ließen sich alle Dingis gut manövrieren. Bei der Gleitfahrt zeigten sich aber die Unterschiede. Zudem ist es wichtig zu wissen, ob das überhaupt möglich ist.

Die gute Nachricht: Bei den meisten Booten war das kein Problem. Nur das Osculati, Yamaha 240 Air, Yamaha 240 T und das EZ Raft kamen nicht ins Rutschen. Ein Grund dafür liegt beim Yamaha 240 T im sehr hohen Spiegel, hier wäre ein Außenborder mit Langschaft nötig. Der Propeller saugte im Test Luft an. Beim EZ Raft ist der Spiegel sehr schmal, weswegen er durch den Schub des Propellers und das daraus resultierende Moment verdreht wird. Das superleichte Modell ist definitiv nicht für einen schweren Verbrenner gemacht. Elektrisch fährt es sich aber gut. Ins Gleiten kommen die kleinen Boote bei knapp 20 Stundenkilometern. Auch die Modelle mit Lattenboden glitschten gut los.

Das Plastimo Raid II P240 war mit 22,2 Stundenkilometern das schnellste. Das Talamex als schwerstes und breitestes Modell brauchte etwas, bis es in Schwung kam, konnte dann aber bei 20,8 Stunden­kilometern mit besonders sicherem Fahr­gefühl und wenig Drift in den Kurven überzeugen. Ein Zwischenfall beim Seatec Nemo ist unschön und der einzige Bruch in diesem Test: Beim schnellen Durchfahren der eigenen Heckwelle bekam die hölzerne Sitzbank unter vernehmlichem Knacken einen Riss. Generell haben die Sitzbänke aus Aluminium den Vorteil, dass sie weniger federn, was besonders beim Rudern angenehmer ist.

Das Schleppverhalten der Beiboote

Der letzte wichtige Punkt im Test ist das Schleppverhalten. Auf Sommertörn soll das Beiboot ja nicht jeden Tag verpackt und in die Backskiste geräumt werden, wenn man es auch einfach nachschleppen kann. Dabei ist entscheidend, dass es gut dem Boot hinterherläuft und einen möglichst geringen Schleppwiderstand hat.

Gemessen wurde das mit einer Zugwaage bei einer Schleppgeschwindigkeit von 6,5 Knoten. Maßgeblich ist hierbei die Länge der Schleppleine. Sie sollte nicht zu kurz sein, um die zehn Meter lang, und muss genau eingestellt werden. Denn schon ein wenig weiter achtern oder vorlich ist ausschlaggebend dafür, ob das Beiboot die Heckwelle herunterfährt oder im Wellental feststeckt. Dieser Unterschied ist an der Schwimmlage des Beibootes und noch feiner am Schleppwiderstand zu erkennen.

Für den Test wurde immer die gleiche Leinenlänge gewählt, dann aber so feinjustiert, dass der Wert auf der Waage am niedrigsten war. So wurde sichergestellt, dass alle Schlauchboote fair verglichen werden können. Diese Einstellung nehmen auch erfahrene Bootsleute vor, wenn sie ihr Dingi schleppen. Nur statt der Zugwaage dann nach Gefühl. Die Werte auf der Waage lagen zwischen 3,4 und 7,4 Kilogramm. Das ist nicht besonders viel, wichtig ist aber der Unterschied. Mit 3,4 Kilogramm schleppte sich das Plas-

timo Raid II am leichtesten nach und mit 7,4 das Yamaha 240 Air am schwersten. Erstaunlicherweise lag das schwerste Beiboot im Test, das Talamex, mit 6,9 noch unter diesem Wert. Hier zeigt sich, dass sich der Schleppwiderstand nicht einfach aus dem Boots­gewicht ableiten lässt. Dabei hat die Rumpfform natürlich den größten Einfluss.

So hatte das EZ Raft als mit Abstand leichtestes Boot im Test mit 5,3 Kilogramm einen durchschnittlichen Schleppwiderstand. Der Wert allein sagt aber nicht alles, entscheidend ist auch, wie sich das Beiboot hinter dem Boot verhält. Hier konnten die Modelle mit ausgeformtem Unterwasserschiff punkten. Sie sind beim Schleppen denen mit Lattenboden überlegen.

Besonders das Seatec Nemo und das Yamaha 240 T liefen holprig nach, fuhren dabei Schlangenlinien, und das Yamaha 240 T tauchte immer wieder kräftig mit dem Bug ein. Beim Nemo ließ sich bedingt durch das unruhige Schleppverhalten kein Messwert feststellen, er liegt zwischen 3,4 und 4,3 Kilogramm.

Befestigungs- und Haltemöglichkeiten

Die Bewertung der Schlauchboote

Die durchweg besten Ergebnisse erzielt das Talamex Comfortline. Es ist aber auch das größte Boot.

Ebenfalls mit guten Ergebnissen folgen das Seatec Aerotend und das Osculati. Letzteres hätte auch das Zeug zum Testsieger, wenn Gleitfahrt im Test mit dem 4 PS Yamaha möglich gewesen wäre. Für Bootsleute, die nur rudern oder langsamer elektrisch fahren, ist es dennoch eine hervorragende Wahl. Zumal es mit 800 Euro auch preislich attraktiv ist.

Das günstigste Beiboot im Test ist mit 430 Euro das Nemo von Seatec. Allerdings gibt es deutliche Abstriche bei der Stabilität, der Ergonomie beim Rudern, der Schwimmlage (Spritzwasser) und dem Schleppverhalten. Schade ist der starke Punktabzug beim Yachticon Crazy4Boating 250 AMF für die Kunststofföse, die beim Rudern deutlich stört. Für Eigner, die nur mit Außenborder unterwegs sein wollen, kann es eine sehr gute Wahl sein. Das Beiboot bietet viel Platz, hohe Stabilität und ist gut ausgestattet.

Das absolute Schlusslicht bildet das Yamaha 240 T. Der Stand auf den schmalen Latten des Bodens ist unsicher, Rudern mühevoll mit kaum Seitenführung, Gleitfahrt ist nicht möglich, und schon die 14,1 Stundenkilometer fühlten sich in keiner Weise sicher und kontrolliert an, zudem lässt es sich nicht so gut nachschleppen.

Das EZ Raft lässt sich nicht so einfach mit den anderen Testbooten vergleichen, es würde im unteren Mittelfeld abschließen. Dabei kann es einige Dinge schlechter als die Konkurrenz (Sitzposition, Rudern, Gleitfahrt), bei Gewicht und Packmaß kommen die anderen aber nicht einmal in seine Nähe. Wenn also der Platz an Bord sehr begrenzt ist oder das „Mutterschiff“ sehr gewichtssensibel, ist das EZ Raft ungeachtet seiner Schwächen eventuell alternativ­los. Das geringe Gewicht hat den Vorteil, dass das EZ Raft mühelos mit einer Hand über die Reling ins Wasser gehoben werden kann.

Beim Talamex mit über 30 Kilogramm Gewicht ist da schon eher eine zweite Person vonnöten, um das Dingi abzufieren. Dafür bietet der schwere Testsieger aber auch schon fast den Komfort eines Ribs, also eines Schlauch­bootes mit Unterwasserschiff aus GFK, was Stabilität und Fahrkomfort erhöht, aber das Packmaß ungleich vergrößert. Dieses haben wir nach dem Packen ermittelt und nicht im Neuzustand. Ersterer Wert ist deutlich realistischer, kann aber auch etwas variieren. Wenn es nach dem Packen nicht mehr in die Backskiste passt, ist es umso besser, wenn sich das Beiboot im Zweifel gut nachschleppen lässt.

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Anchor Testing and Rode Loads

Ps field tests evaluate wind-induced loads on anchors and rodes and how they relate to holding-power claims..

There has been a wealth of anchor tests published in the boating press. The tests focus on holding capacity and tend to underline the conclusion that newer anchors are infinitely better than older traditional plow-designs like the CQR, claw anchors like the Bruce, or even Danforth-style anchors like the Fortress. Read an advertisement for one of these new anchors, and you might wonder why the worlds shorelines are not littered with broken boats that have dragged because they were using older-designed anchors.

While our own tests have found the newer concave fluke designs like those found in the Spade, Rocna, and Manson anchors set quickly and have good holding power, we believe the high-quality construction and materials found in genuine CQR and Bruce anchors make them affordable alternatives. We have also found that the Danforth-style anchors are particularly well suited for soft bottoms.

For this article, we have not attempted to re-test holding capacity figures for anchors. There has been a lot of research done in this area, and it is often difficult to correlate the test data to real-world situations. For example, most tests are conducted in seabeds that allow anchors to both set and hold, so setting ability is not usually highlighted. And we often know very little about the seabeds used for the testing, or we can’t compare the seabeds used for tests with the one where we intend to anchor – one of the mariners great imponderables. Because seabeds vary, holding capacities will vary from published results.

The more we looked at anchor data, the more we began to question the methodology used for testing, even in our own tests. So, this is not an article about comparing one anchor against another; this is about the loads on an anchor and what this means for you as you compare makers claims regarding holding power.

Testing: Introduction

For this test, we set out to establish what actual level of load is developed on the anchor of a boat at various scopes, from 3:1 up to 10:1, and various wind speeds, from five knots to 30 knots. The tests generated more questions, some of which we have tried to answer.

There are many published charts of theoretical loads, but data from actual loads is more scarce. Probably the most commonly cited table of anchor loads in the U.S. is the table of theoretical loads used by the American Boat and Yacht Council in its Standards and Technical Information Reports for Small Craft, revised most recently in 2008. Indicating minimum design loads for deck hardware used for anchoring or mooring (cleats, bitts, samson posts, etc.), the table lists calculated loads according to boat size, ranging from 10 to 60 feet. According to that table, the cleat for a working anchor on a 35-foot sailboat should withstand loads up to 5,400 pounds.

In September 2004, we reported on the various tests used to calculate load on rode, including one real-world test by Robert Smith, whose own experiments produced sharply lower figures, nearly 75 percent lower, than the ABYC data used at that time. It is important to note that in both cases-the ABYC theoretical loads and Smiths field test loads-the rode loads were much less than the holding power testers were finding in the matching anchors. In effect, the current crop of anchor tests are telling us that even anchors with less-than-stellar holding power are more than adequate for the typical loads we can expect when anchored.

Does this mean we’re all carrying around way more anchor than we need (not necessarily a bad thing)? We’re doubtful. For one thing, boats with perfectly matched anchors still wind up on the beach. And for another, some of the greatest loads on the anchor occur when you are trying to dislodge an anchor from a stubborn bottom, not when you are anchored with 7:1 scope. So does this mean that the tests are not a fair representation of the way anchors actually work in the field? Perhaps. Regardless, we wanted to take our own look at actual loads on anchors and see how this might affect our upcoming round of anchor tests.

Testing: The Boat

For our test platform, we used an Australian-built, 38-foot Lightwave catamaran, not too dissimilar to a 38-foot Leopard. Most sailors do not own catamarans, so the first thing we did was look at the windage of our test boat for comparison with something a bit more mainstream.

Our local Bavaria dealer was sympathetic to the work and they provided drawings of the 2010 model Bavaria 35 and 45. We were able to compute front and side maximum cross-sectional areas from these drawings and compare with our catamaran, also from drawings. The catamaran has a similar windage, frontal plus side cross-sectional areas, to the Bavaria 45, which has about 30 percent more freeboard than the Bavaria 35.

Windage is a function of the square of the surface area, so the 30 percent difference means the Bavaria 35 has approximately half the windage of the Bavaria 45. We cheated by assuming masts, booms, furled sails, and bimini tops would be proportionate.

Windage is not the only function, weight and underwater profile are also important, but for our purposes, we have ignored these parameters. For comparison, the Lightwave weighs six tons and has two mini keels with 3-foot, 3-inch draft. The Bavaria 45 weighs 12 tons and has a 6-foot, 8-inch draft.

Interestingly, for catamaran owners, most boatbuilders and anchor-makers would tend to recommend an anchor based on length, so a 38-foot cat would have the same anchor as a 38-foot monohull. In our view, overall length alone is not a good benchmark. Windage and tonnage are also important factors.

How We Tested

The testing process was fairly straightforward, but laborious. We chose a location on Pittwater Sound, under Barrenjoey Headland on Sydneys Northern Beaches, Australia. This location is sheltered from developing northeasterly wave action, so the water was fairly flat, even with 30 knots of wind, but subject to the impact of a developing afternoon, northeasterly, summer sea breeze. The seabed is relatively flat, composed of sand patches and seagrass. We anchored for each round of testing in a different sand patch, but all in fairly close proximity to one another. We checked that our anchor did not move during the test using GPS and a marker buoy (and we could see both the marker buoy weight and anchor on the seabed). We anchored at different scopes, varying from slightly less than 3:1 up to 10:1 and measured load on the anchor as the sea breeze developed from 5 to 30 knots.

Multihulls usually use a bridle when anchoring because it helps to center and steady the boat. We replaced our bridle with Dyneema and routed this temporary bridle via snatch blocks off each bow, to a central fiddleblock, and then to a load cell located on the bridgedeck.

The load cell was secured with Dyneema through a block on the self-tacking jib track to a mast-mounted winch. The other end was secured to an all-chain rode. Compared to a typical anchoring arrangement which would include a stretchy, shock-absorbing nylon snubber, the elasticity in the rode was negligible, particularly under the low-end loads we recorded. The catenary in the chain, however, did serve to dampen the load.

We measured windspeed at the masthead and correlated that with load (see tables). The windspeed quoted is from the masthead unit. The wind impacts the masthead a few seconds before it impacts the hull, so we knew when to anticipate a significant increase in load. Our rode ratio was based on measurement from bow roller (30 inches above the water) to seabed, and to minimize the impact of tide, we worked two hours either side of high or low water. The maximum tidal differences on Pittwater are seven feet. Anchoring depths were about 16 feet.

Test Results

So what did we find? First a quick explanation of the accompanying graphs, which are based on hundreds of pairs of readings. In generating the graphs, we focused on the maximum or peak loads, since we regard the extreme high loads to be of most interest. (No one wants to base their anchor choices on the lowest loads.) The curves for lower windspeeds are based on actual data; the extrapolations for the higher windspeeds are generated using the formula for the plot. The charts tell the story. The maximum loads decreased with increased scope-hardly an earth-shattering discovery. More important was the amount of load, which generally stayed below 700 pounds at the scope ratio normally recommended for anchoring (at least 7:1). Of particular interest was the fact that virtually all of the peak loads were shock loads, caused as the boat veered about in the wind. However, as the scope ratio increased, the peak snatch loads reduced until at 10:1 scope they had almost disappeared.

It is worth re-iterating that these loads are developed on a multihull with a windage similar to a modern production 45-foot boat. We estimate that a modern 35-foot sailboat would experience loads much lower than those plotted.

We never experienced a long sustained load. The load would develop, to whatever maximum over 15 to 20 seconds, peak and then decrease. This is in complete contrast to how anchors are normally tested, and the basis of those holding capacity figures.

Anchor testing has always been conducted with a winch or tugboat pulling steadily at an anchor in the seabed and when that anchor can be pulled at a steady rate, the load developed is said to be its holding capacity. The tests we conducted demonstrate how this steady-load test is flawed. The severity or speed of development of the extreme loads we measured suggest that fast-pull anchor test, delivered by a faster winch or a moving tugboat, might be more valid than direct-pull anchor testing at a slow speed.

The impact of the wind on a boat is proportionate to the square of wind speed. So 20 knots of wind is slightly less than half as strong as 30 knots, 40 knots is almost double 30 knots, and 52 knots will have three times the impact of 30 knots. The maximum loads we experienced were obviously at low-scope ratios, slightly less than 3:1. The sea breeze was fairly well developed when we did these tests, and we experienced 1,125 pounds of load at 18 knots and 1,400 pounds of load at 23 knots. It is possible these loads are higher for a multihull compared to a monohull, since we presented our bow on cross-sectional area. The experience of these high shock-loads was unnerving and because of this, we suspended testing in high winds at low scope. If possible, a sailor would either lay out more rode or try to move when confronting these sort of impact loads.

An Analysis

Comparing our recorded loads to those recorded during various maximum-load anchor tests, one might conclude that just about any good-quality anchor matched to the right seabed offers more than adequate holding ability in these conditions.

The question then becomes, why then, do so many anchors drag? First off, all anchors can drag. Any anchor maker promising his anchors never drag is full of hot air. If you catch a lost towel, a beer can, or piece of seaweed on the seabed, your anchor will not set correctly-if at all. Even if there is nothing fouling the anchor, if you don’t set it correctly, it will drag. Some anchors need more coaxing than others to set.

Seabeds are not consistent, and if your anchor moves to a harder substrate, it might simply lift out. If the wind direction changes, your anchor might not hold. And few anchor tests take into account wave action, which can generate additional shock loads. In other words, choosing the right anchor for the job is just part of the equation, picking the right spot, and ensuring a good set are also critical factors.

We found that, in our location, our boat was swinging on the anchor through 75 degrees. We also tracked the boat location on the chartplotter, and checked the direction in which the boat was pointing. Our experience in other anchorages, and on other boats, suggest this yawing can vary greatly. Catamarans are notorious for sailing from side-to-side when anchored; a monohull will usually do a better job of staying put. During testing, the wind would gust from one side of the boat and then from another side, forcing the boat to veer. It was this veering that helped to develop the peak snatch loads.

Here is a typical scenario: A gust from starboard forces the boat to veer to port, and two successive gusts from port drive the boat in the other direction, allowing it to develop momentum to accelerate back onto its chain. The chain dragging on the seabed and the weight of the chain help slow the boat, but the gust is strong enough for the chain to jerk bar tight and a develop a snatch load. This veering motion is why the side windage of a boat can have significant impact on anchoring loads, even though the boat might have swung to a more bow-on orientation when the highest load develops.

Our experiences with snatch loads on the water caused us to wonder: Do the existing maximum load tests mimic any real-world situation? A situation that might copy conventional anchor testing would be a boat anchored in a strong tidal flow, which will tend to hold the vessel steady (and stop yawing) with a strong wind superimposed over the tidal flow. The boat would be subject to the tidal flow and the wind. This does occur, but not that often. Wave action might steady the boat but then you have snatch loads caused by wave action to consider.

Results, and Implications

There are possibly a number of options to minimize yawing effect and the development of snatch loads. The Royal Navy practice was to drop a second bow anchor but with only sufficient chain to allow the anchor to act as a friction brake. A kellet to add catenary will help keep the bow pointed into the wind, and increase friction on the seabed. A riding sail (see Practical Sailor July 2011 ) is also an option.

One approach is to accept the yawing, but try to minimize the shock loads is to use decent snubbers. The theory behind this is not new. Think of one of those young adventurers leaping off a bridge relying for life on a bungee cord. When gravity has done its work and they reach the end of their tether, they feel nothing (other than that adrenalin rush and relief)-all the developed load, or momentum is absorbed by the bungee-no limb-tearing at all.

A decent snubber is a bungee for a boat. Some cruisers are quite content with a long piece of 3/8-inch nylon secured on deck and connected to the chain with a knot or a chain hook. (Our August 2009 article on gripping hitches looked at the various knots that also work for this purpose.) We’ve also looked at a variety of commercial snubbers that offer even more elasticity. Our July 2008 article looked at some of these products. The problem with some of these devices is that they tend to be ineffective at high loads, just when you need them.

A second anchor also makes sense. In winds greater than 35 knots, deploying a second bow anchor at 90 degrees to the first will reduce yawing and almost double the holding capacity. In some anchorages, a line ashore can help reduce yawing, but it can also hold you broadside to the wind, increasing the load on the anchor.

The Peak Load

The maximum load we experienced in our tests was 1,400 pound but this was at a scope slightly less than 3:1. The impact is a bit like driving your boat into a brick wall. It was not pleasant, and the tests were rapidly terminated when this occurred. It is also unlikely that anyone would, like we did, anchor using a 3:1 scope when 20-knot gusts are forecast. Interestingly, our test anchor, a 36-pound Australian Anchor Right Excel, did not move, and it is this lack of movement that makes the impact feel as if you have hit a brick wall. Maybe a less efficient anchor would burrow some, or even drag slightly, to cushion the impact.

Shaft Strength

The tendency of some designs to so thoroughly fix themselves to the bottom in their original orientation brings up another issue-shank strength. Clearly, if an anchor is going to bury its flukes so deeply that it wont budge, the shank needs to be able to sustain not just straight-pull loads, but side-pull loads as well. Any anchor that is used in rock or coral (to be avoided if at all possible) must also have an ultra-strong shank.

If a 1,000-pound load impacts your anchor and that load, imposed by your veering boat, is at a large angle to the direction the anchor is set, then a poorly engineered shank might bend.

Australian anchor maker Anchor Right lets visitors observe its anchor testing, and this has allowed us to see how deep some of the newer designs like the Rocna, Spade, Quickline Ultra, and Manson can dig under controlled load testing. Basically, these newer, quicker-setting anchors work because once they engage with the seabed, they dive. The more you load them, the more they dive, and diving engenders increased holding capacity. Less efficient anchors, and the CQR is a prime example, don’t dig as deep, but as weve mentioned before, they have other admirable attributes. Our experience with a Spade anchor showed that in a 30-knot wind the anchor Spade completely disappears along with the first few feet of chain. When observing other similar diving anchors under testing, we noted the same characteristics. In good sand bottoms, the Bruce types also burrowed completely.

It must be underlined that we specifically chose the test area for its shelter from wave action. Waves must have a severe impact on loads as in addition to changing scopes, if you have 3-foot waves, they also introduce the possibility of more regular and frequent snatch loads.

Much of the testing we have done is not re-inventing the wheel, at best developing some numerical values that reinforce established practice. The work, though far from complete, does raise questions about how anchors react to veering situations, and we will try to address that in our next round of testing this summer.

Graphs developed from testing show the peak loads based on wind speed with scope set at three different ratios, from 4.3:1 (top) to 10:1 (bottom). The graph for 10:1 scope includes projected loads at greater than 30 knots, extrapolated from the formula generated by the plotted curve.

One of the “big questions” we wanted to address was the relevance of standard, maximum-load, straight-pull anchor tests. Here is a look at some common anchor test methods:

1. Anchor Right uses this cool contraption to test anchors in shallow tidal waters. The anchor is to the left. The rig contains a recorder that prints out the data for analysis.

2. Workers prepare an anchor made by Boyut Marine for testing according to SuperHigh Holding Power standards used by the American Bureau of Shipping. Note the monster-sized gear and rode used for testing.

3. Testers for Anchor Right use a special tool to retrieve anchors that have dug into the mud when loaded up to 4,000 pounds (much more than a recreational sailboat will usually develop). Ability to easily break out an anchor is also a key attribute.

Peak loads developed as the test vessel swung around at anchor, suggesting that a well-designed anchor will be able to sustain lateral loads as well as straight pulls used in some tests.

1. A 2-ton load cell we used to measure anchor loads. The data recorder is at the chart table alongside readouts on the chartplotter of the anchored track of the boat, bearing of the boat, wind speed, and depth.

2. Low-stretch Dyneema line (blue) was used between the chain rode and the load cell.

3. Our test boat swung around the anchor through 75 degrees and pivoted a further 60 degrees.

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8 Fascinating Facts About ‘Wayfinder,’ a 224-Foot Catamaran With a Helipad That Doubles as a Pickleball Court

Commissioned by one of the world's wealthiest men, this 224-foot cat doubles as a charter superyacht and support vessel. it's full of toys and tech., julia zaltzman, julia zaltzman's most recent stories.

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The aptly named Wayfinder —referring to a navigational tool—is a 224-foot aluminum multihull and only the second purpose-built catamaran support vessel in the world. (The first is its sistership Hodor .) Built in 2021 by Astilleros Armon, the vessel is the Spanish yard’s largest delivery to date.

The word on the street, or at least in the yachting community, is that the hardy-looking vessel was commissioned by Microsoft cofounder Bill Gates. Oliver Design, the Spanish studio that penned and outfitted the yacht’s interior, confirmed the unconfirmed owner is “one of the world’s wealthiest individuals.” The 10,800-square-foot interior includes crew and guest cabins, offices, a galley, a mess area, lounges and, like many support vessels these days, an infirmary.

With industrial exterior design and naval architecture by the Australian-based big-cat specialist Incat Crowther, Wayfinder pivots between a transatlantic charter yacht to a dedicated support vessel. Available for charter through Edmiston, its 2024 itinerary includes the Mediterranean, Baltic, Red Sea and Arabian Gulf for summer before heading to the Caribbean for winter.

Power is provided by a pair of MTU 16V engines that drive two Servogear controllable-pitch propellers to deliver a maximum speed of 21 knots. An impressive range of 5,500 nautical miles at 14 knots gives it the ability to do very long, oceangoing voyages.

Here are eight fascinating facts about one of the world’s most capable catamarans.

Upstairs, Downstairs

The upper deck accommodation is designed for charter guests when the boat is a superyacht and staff in support-vessel mode. Eleven en suite cabins, including nine single and two twins, sleep up to 12 guests. Twenty-two staff can be accommodated in the main-deck crew quarters. The yacht’s dedicated crew bring a range of experiences, from Master Mariners and dive instructors to royal yacht chefs and ex-navy engineers—plus a medic.

The yacht’s main deck is dedicated to a crazy selection of six tenders and myriad toys, including four Sea-Doos, a 39-foot Compass limousine that accommodates 16 guests and a 37-foot Munson Beach Lander that seats 17. There’s also an array of personal watercraft, paddleboards, Seabobs, and even an Explorer Icebreaker E-Jetboard. The bonus for serious scuba divers is the abundance of dive gear and even a decompression chamber. But unlike its sistership Hodor , the toy list doesn’t extend to a submersible.

Party Platform

Wayfinder ’s capacity to welcome up to 200 guests explains its frequent attendance at high society events, such as the Monaco Grand Prix and Cannes Film Festival. It’s another example of how the yacht’s large helipad comes into its own, capable of hosting a formally dressed crowd for drinks and canapes. According to Incat Crowther’s technical manager Dan Mace, that comes courtesy of the vessel’s catamaran hull, which provides 60 percent more deck space and 40 percent more volume capacity than other vessels its size.

Luxury Lounging

Wayfinder ’s large open aft deck has a commercially registered helipad (meaning it’s also available for charter use) and is used to bring guests on and off the yacht in style. There’s even a dedicated “heli-lounge” where guests can wait for the helicopter transfer. Located forward on the same deck as the helipad, and within easy reach of the yacht’s elevator, the lounge has a modern design.

Technically Gifted

While the vessel is all about having fun at sea, the helm is packed with a range of technical capabilities, from the integrated bridge to the yacht’s MARSS NiDAR long-range perimeter security and drone-detection system for guest privacy and protection. The catamaran hull is further enhanced by a Praxis dynamic positioning system for keeping the yacht in place at sea. On the inside, the layout is dedicated to service areas, including waste management, laundry, workshops and storage.

Pickleball, Anyone?

When not being used for guest transfers, the sky-blue helipad conveniently doubles as a full-size pickleball court, with side lounges for guests to watch from the side lines. To prevent balls from flying into the water, a temporary three-sided net wall is erected around the edge of the court. At night, the big heli ‘H’ lights up in neon green.

Seaview Gym

The beauty of a support vessel is the large amount of space available to carry equipment, toys, and tenders, but it also frees up space for wellness and fitness. On Wayfinder ’s lower deck, the foldout beach club doubles as a well-equipped oceanfront gym for workouts that come with million-dollar views. The gym gear includes an elliptical machine, Nordic spinning bike, weight benches, treadmill, rowing machine, and punching bags. Unlike other yachts with the beach club at the stern, the aft area remains free for swimmers or just relaxing.

Environmentally Active

Built to the IMO’s latest Tier III emission guidelines, Wayfinder was designed to enhance sustainability. Its onboard treatment plant cleans all wastewater discharged to drinkable quality before being discharged. The yacht’s dry waste is also fully treated to allow the vessel to operate with a zero-discharge policy.

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Best inflatable boat: 9 compact tenders put to the test

• Robert Melotti
• September 9, 2021

Rob Melotti and the PBO test team put some lightweight, portable inflatable dinghies through their paces in Lymington to find the best inflatable boat

Inflatables are everywhere: paddleboards , canoes, kayaks , tents, kites and wings – and inflatable boat technology has long been a practical option for tenders, RIBs, liferafts and lifejackets .

But what the ‘new wave’ of inflatable boats brings to the practical boating landscape is the air floor, which makes very stable, very lightweight tenders a very practical option for people with limited stowage ie owners of cruising boats under 30ft.

And the market has responded with a selection of offerings under 2.4m weighing under 20kg. So which is the best and what should you be looking for to get the most for your money?

We tested nine models sold by eight different brand names. The inflatable boats were superficially quite similar, but in the accumulation of small details it was possible to pick a few favourites.

We rowed and motored all of the inflatable boats solo, and most of them with two aboard. We weighed and measured them and found a lot to like.

What’s the best inflatable boat? 9 options tested

3D Twin V Shape 230 Air Deck Tender was a good all-round performer – and best on test

3D Twin V Shape 230 Air deck tender

French manufacturer 3D Tender was one of the earliest producers of ultralight inflatable tenders. This model sports premium touches, such as davit rings and the most high-spec pump of all the inflatable boats on test.

In terms of convenience it is a rucksack carry bag with a large front pocket for the pump and accessories. The zips will need maintenance though.

The V floor is a single chamber, keeping set-up time to a minimum and keeping the weight down. The lack of safety lines on the side makes carrying as a two-person team a little less convenient than some of the other inflatable boats, but the keel strip will help preserve this boat.

The rowlocks double as cleats and the rubbing strake will provide strength but little in the way of splashproofing for passengers.

Buy it now on oceanfirstmarine.co.uk

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence.

Force 4 02Lite was the lightest on test

Force 4 02Lite

This model is very similar to the Seago Go Lite (also tested), including the rucksack, which was our favourite on test for carrying comfort, although you do have to beware of any loose objects inside the bag dropping out of the side enclosure flap.

The Force 4 02Lite was the lightest package overall and packed down to just 90cm long.

The oars were the smallest on test, which affected the rowing performance, but it was the only inflatable boat with open rowlocks – so you can use your own oars.

The bench is adjustable, but I wasn’t able to position it far enough aft to brace my feet against the transom under oars.

There are three D-rings for making a towing bridle on the bow but no ergonomic carry handle.

The rubbing strake is minimal with no splash guard and there are no davit lifting eyes.

Buy it now on force4.co.uk

Crewsaver Air Deck 230 is solidly built and joint cheapest, but is outclassed by 3D Tender’s lightweight V floor design

Crewsaver Air Deck 230

Best cheap inflatable boat

The pack we were sent for testing had the incorrect seat included, but we were able to substitute a seat from one of the other inflatable boats on test without difficulty.

The rucksack doesn’t have a front pocket, but there are no zips to corrode and the adjustable webbing buckles mean the top opening of the bag is quite forgiving for repacking.

The safety lines are robustly attached to the hull, which is a feature that will pay dividends long-term, but adds a bit of weight.

The rubbing strake is also weighty, but the splash guards will keep water out of the boat.

The coned aft sponson caps are hard plastic, enabling vertical storage without damage and the rowlocks double as cleats.

There are davit rings in the bow and through the thick transom board, plus the bow handle is wide for ergonomic carrying.

Buy it now on crewsaver.com

Excel Ventura SL200

From a Midlands-based company that specialises in inflatable boats, this came with a great double-action hand pump and was the only boat on test with an over-pressure valve – a useful feature for exposure to the hot sun.

The safety lines are sturdily attached and splash guards make up part of the rubbing strake protecting the sides and keeping water out of the boat.

The rowlocks double as cleats and the bow handle is wide enough for a proper grip.

Excel Ventura SL200’s double action hand pump made short work of inflation

Davit fittings are supplied and the sponsons are shaped to add waterline length and buoyancy aft. The duffel carry bag was the sturdiest on test.

This inflatable boat comes with a good long set of oars, although we had to sit side-by-side to make any progress under oars with two adults on board.

Buy it now on excel-inflatables.co.uk

Quicksilver was big – but also heavy

Quicksilver Tendy Airfloor 240

This boat has an inflatable keel as well as a removable inflatable floor. There was also a rigid slat athwartship between the floor and keel, which increases the weight overall.

This is one of the priciest and heaviest inflatable boats on the test and one of the largest in packed dimensions.

It features a fuel tank strap, a decent keel strip to prevent damage on slipways, a decent bow carry handle and rowlock cleats.

The rubbing strake is quite meaty as well without being particularly splashproof.

The carry bag is very forgiving – opening flat like a groundsheet.

There were no carry handles on the sponsons and the safety rope fixings aren’t as solid as many of the other inflatable boats on test, although there are rowlock cleats and the seat is fully adjustable.

Buy it now on eBay

Light weight makes for easy handling on land and in the water

Seago Go Lite 230

Seago is a distributor, supplying UK chandleries and there are similarities between this model and the 02Lite from Force 4.

This model is very light and compact – just 0.5kg heavier than Force 4, but packs down to the same 90cm length.

The oars are very short, but are fixed using a pin and thole system which some may prefer over the Force 4’s rowlocks.

The PVC material is described as 1100 Decitex (Force 4 is 800 Decitex) and the backpacks of the two were identical: comfortable to carry and forgiving to repack due to their large side aperture rather than a narrow top.

The rubbing strake is minimal and there is no ergonomic bow handle.

Buy it now on seagoyachting.co.uk

YAM 200T is not rated for two adults

This 2m inflatable boat has a fixed seat and was unique on the test for having wooden slats to reinforce the floor. This means less pumping up, but slightly increased weight.

Like the 3D tender there is no safety rope so carrying between two crew involves spreading your arms wide from bow handle to stern handle placed on the sponsons. It is rated for one adult and one child – the smallest by rating on the test.

There is a hefty rubbing strake with raised levels to block spray and the rowlocks double as cleats. The oars are miniature and the bow has three D-rings for rigging a towing bridle but no ergonomic handle for carrying. With two adults aboard we would have been better rowing side by side – but it was no slouch under engine.

Buy it now on bhg-marine.co.uk

The nicest boat on test to row

YAM 240 (STI) Air Floor Sport Tender

This is the most expensive model on test and features an inflatable keel as well as a floor section, plus two sponsons to inflate.

With that much to inflate a high quality pump would have been better, but there is a pressure gauge included in the package to get everything sufficiently firm.

The seat is fixed but the oars were nice and long, which made it the nicest boat to row. As with the YAM 200T there were no safety lines fitted and carry handles are spread far apart, which makes carrying more difficult.

But there is a good, ergonomic bow carry handle and the inflatable boat is rated to carry 400kg, the highest rating on test. The rowlocks double as cleats and the rounded aft end of the sponsons have protective, hard plastic caps.

Smaller diameter sponsons means more space aboard – but less freeboard

Talamex Superlight SLA230

Talamex is a Dutch brand imported by EP Barrus. This inflatable boat had the narrowest diameter sponsons on test, which creates more internal space, but less freeboard.

It’s an extremely lightweight package, with a thin transom board, but nice long oars and a good carrying handle on the bow.

The pump supplied is a single-action hand pump and the bag folds out completely flat like a groundsheet, which is very forgiving for repacking.

The bag has nice carrying handles on the narrow ends. The seat was massively adjustable and the rubbing strake is generous without offering very much splash guarding.

The safety rope attachments look a bit vulnerable and there are no other handles on the sponsons.

Launching the Seago 320

Verdict: Which was the best inflatable boat on test?

This group of inflatable boats can be subdivided in a few different ways: by length, by price and by weight (note there is also a group of rucksack boats and a trio of air-keel boats).

I think the best on test goes to the 3D Tender, which manages to keep the weight down, comes complete with a very high-spec pump, a very user-friendly rucksack bag with a big front pocket and a ‘slight V form floor’ that inflates as a single chamber.

There are no safety lines or a bow handle, so carrying the boat when inflated is less natural than some of the others and it’s the second most expensive.

The best bargain buy is probably the lightest, smallest package: Force 4, for me, is preferable to the very similar Seago model because of its ‘open’ rowlocks. But if you prefer captive oars, the Seago is slightly cheaper.

The Crewsaver is the same low price and probably more robust and seaworthy than the Force 4 or the Seago while being easier to carry when inflated than the 3D Tender. But without the V floor I think it’s a less versatile performer.

I didn’t see the benefit of the two 200cm dinghies we tested: both were noticeably small in use without being smaller to pack and stow or lighter to carry.

The 240cm V Floor models can carry bigger loads at greater speed, but if you really need that level of performance you have to accept the extra set-up time, weight and stowage.

Best inflatable boats – key facts and figures

What makes the best inflatable boat for you?

Rucksack bags were easiest to carry

The bag details matter when one of the main selling points of a product is its portability. We looked at handles, zips and overall design. Metal zips will corrode without a regular rinse in fresh water, but as long as the zipper track is plastic, then replacement zipper trucks can be fitted relatively cheaply.

Carry handles at the narrow ends are very useful and half of the inflatable boats tested can be carried as rucksacks. A few of the boats pack away in bags that deconstruct on all four sides like groundsheets, with webbing straps and adjustable buckles crossways and lengthways.

These are very forgiving and yet still pack up tightly and securely. We also looked at the quality of the bag material: is the bag likely to survive chafing, stretching, damp or UV exposure for as long as the dinghy itself?

We weighed each of the inflatable boats in their carry bags and found quite a variation in boat weights

Size, weight and price

Our facts table will quickly show you the lightest and smallest packs and there are four tenders priced under £500.

The two longest inflatable boats in the test (YAM 240 and Quicksilver 240) were in the biggest bags (110cm and 120cm respectively), and were the heaviest packs weighing over 20kg even without any accessories.

Only three of the nine tested boats weighed in at under 20kg straight out of the box. There was an 11kg difference between the lightest (Force 4 02Lite) and the heaviest (Quicksilver Tendy Airfloor 240).

The Force 4 comes in a rucksack bag that is 20cm shorter in length than the Quicksilver and over £100 cheaper.

But unless size, weight and price are your only criteria, then a simple numerical comparison could miss some important details.

Article continues below…

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Pumps and pressure

Some of the air floors are rated for 1psi; others at 11psi. Most of the sponsons were rated at 3.6psi, which shouldn’t require too much brow mopping for foot- or hand-pump operators.

Five of the inflatable boats came with foot pumps, but the double-action hand pumps with the 3D and the Quicksilver were a joy to use.

All the boats were easily carried by two when inflated

Manual handling

It’s an ironic linguistic quirk that a tender should be so regularly treated without much tenderness. Even a few hours’ use on a clean slipway incurred scuffs, dings, grubby marks and a few minor tears to the carry bags.

Grass is far kinder than concrete for inflating, but is in short supply at busy locations. We looked at keel strips, rubbing strakes, safety line attachment points, bow handles and more… including the relationship between price, weight and fit-out.

First published in the September 2021 issue of Practical Boat Owner.

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Which Boat Type Are You? Here's Your Test to See!

Do you strut into parties like, turning heads with your dazzling presence?

Well, you might just be a Luxury Yacht – in boat terms, that is!

But hold your anchors – there's more to you than just making waves.

Unsure about your boat-alter ego? No need to send out an SOS! Dive into our quirky quiz to discover your true nautical nature.

On this page:

Spotlight stealer you're a luxury yacht, the zen master: embrace the sailboat spirit, thrill seeker: racing powerboat at heart, the timeless classic: a wooden boat soul, the intrepid explorer: kayak-like in nature, the life of the gathering: pontoon boat personality, the patient strategist: a fishing boat's determination, the boundless voyager: ocean cruiser spirit, found your boat personality.

Strutting into a party like you own the place. Imagine walking into a party, and the room pauses just to admire your entrance. That's you, a luxury yacht in human form. Dazzling, confident, and unapologetically lavish, you're not just in the party; you are the party.

You're that friend who meditates at sunrise. Picture yourself calmly sipping tea, unfazed by the chaos of daily life, much like a sailboat gliding gracefully with the wind. Your life is a serene journey, powered by nature's rhythm, free from the roar of engines and rush hours.

You're the one who always says, 'Faster!'" There you are, always picking the fastest rollercoaster, thriving on adrenaline. You embody the essence of a racing powerboat, zipping through life's waves with an infectious, unstoppable energy.

Choosing vinyl records over Spotify playlists. Imagine preferring the crackling sound of a vinyl record to the clarity of digital music. That's your essence, akin to a wooden boat, where every polished plank tells a story of tradition and timeless elegance.

Hiking alone, finding new paths in familiar woods. You're the one who enjoys solitary hikes, embracing the whisper of nature. Your spirit mirrors a kayak, navigating life's currents independently, finding serenity in the quietude of solo journeys.

Hosting BBQs where everyone's invited. You're the host who throws open their doors, where every BBQ ends up a block party. Like a pontoon boat, you bring people together, floating through life surrounded by laughter and good company.

Playing chess in the park, contemplating each move. There you are, at the park, deeply engrossed in a game of chess. Every move is deliberate, every strategy patiently crafted. This mirrors the essence of a fishing boat - focused, patient, and always ready for the catch.

Staring at maps, dreaming of your next adventure. Envision yourself gazing at a world map, pinning your next destination. Your spirit is akin to an ocean cruiser, always on the lookout for new horizons, eagerly embracing the vastness of uncharted waters.

If yes – why not share this article with your crew? They might discover their boat alter-egos too!

And hey, there's no harm in embracing your boat personality... because I secretly captain my own imaginary sailboat!

Embracing your inner yacht or kayak is all in good fun. Just remember to sail through life's waves with a sense of humor. After all, the ocean of personalities is endless, and there's always a new maritime trait to explore and cherish. Bon voyage! ⛵🚤 #BoatPersonality #SailYourTrueSelf

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Dinghy test : 10 inflatable boats compared

Michael Rinck

, Hauke Schmidt

, Jan-Ole Puls

 ·  29.06.2023

• Click here for the test results

On many yachts, the dinghy is taken out of the back box and inflated at the latest when the anchor is dropped. On the typical yacht size between 30 and 40 feet, an inflatable dinghy is usually the most practical, unless there are davits or enough space on deck for a rigid-hull dinghy. The inflatable version can combine the supposed contradictions of small pack size versus good space in the boat and low weight versus high tipping stability. That is why it is so popular. Especially the size around 2.50 metres in length just fits into the back box on many yachts when packed and still offers enough transport volume for a small crew.

But even if the small inflatable boats are similar, there are still major differences. These are particularly evident in the construction of the floor. The simplest variant is a foil between the tubes, which is reinforced with inserted boards for better stability in the boat. However, this construction is rather unstable and does not form a V-shape in the underwater area. Models with a high-pressure floor have an advantage here.

• BEIBOOT-GUIDE: 9 tips for better dinghy handling

The high-pressure floor in the inflatable boat

The in Drop stitch process The part is similar in design to a SUP and is inserted into the dinghy. A nice side effect: the hollow space with the keel hose between the underwater hull foil and the high-pressure floor acts as a bilge. Rain or spray water collects here and your feet stay dry when you step into the dinghy.

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This advantage does not apply to the second variant of the high-pressure floor - the 3D air floor or high-pressure V-floor . This is inherently V-shaped and part of the fuselage construction, so it is not inserted separately. Advantage: one less part and easier to assemble. Disadvantage: Due to the V-shape, there are two sloping surfaces in the boat and no straight floor. In addition, a puddle of water quickly forms in the centre.

There are three dinghies from the group with floorboards in the test: one model each from Plastimo, Seatec (SVB's own brand) and Yamaha. These dinghies are usually cheaper. There are six models in the group with a high-pressure floor. One each from Osculati, Plastimo, Seatec, Talamex, Yachticon and Yamaha. In this group, the boats from Plastimo and Seatec have a 3D air floor.

Differences in the floor construction

The EZ Raft from the Netherlands is a special case. Its hull consists of three tubes and resembles a trimaran. The centre tube is used for rowing. So there is no interior space like on the other boats. Instead, rainwater simply runs off. The big advantage of the EZ Raft is its low weight and extremely small pack size.

The equipment of the dinghies

Before we went out on the water, however, we determined the dimensions and weight. This also revealed the differences in equipment. Starting with little things like the repair kit, which often lacked something instead of patches, glue and a valve spanner. This was the case with the dinghy from Osculati, Talamex and Yachticon.

The Talamex is the only pump with a double-stroke floor pump, all the others have a foot pump. Most of them also have the option of reducing the stroke and then pumping with more pressure. Only the Yamaha models have an even simpler foot pump. If the quality of the pump is not right, it can be difficult to get the pressure recommended by the manufacturer onto the tubes.

The pressure can only be checked using a pressure gauge, which was included with the Plastimo Fun, the Seatec Aerotend and the Yamaha 240 Air. One trick to achieve the desired pressure, even with a less powerful pump, is to inflate the dinghy properly when it is cool, for example in the evening. Then the air in the tube heats up in the sun to make it plump.

Handles and skirting boards

The Plastimo Fun PI230 VB shows how important even small features can be: it has neither a mooring line nor handles. Lifting the boat into the water and only being able to use the side handles is impractical. The majority of the models can be lifted better, the EZ Raft with 31 grip loops has the most handles. These and the reinforcements on the rubbing strake and under the keels are made of webbing from automotive seat belts.

Most of the other dinghies also have rubbing strakes and reinforcements on the keel. The latter protect the material when the boat is pulled onto the beach. The rubbing strake fulfils a dual purpose on many dinghies: It is fitted with an anti-splash lip on the lower side. On the Osculati, Seatec Aerotend, Talamex and Yachticon 250 AMF, this stops the water splashing up during the journey.

The stability of inflatable boats

Stability is important as soon as you take the inflatable boat out on the water. Can you simply climb on board, or is it so wobbly that special care is required? The width of the boat and the diameter of the tube are crucial for a safe floating position with plenty of righting momentum. The larger, the safer. The Talamex gets top marks in this discipline.

But the model from Yachticon, from Osculati and the Plastimo Raid II P240 are also convincing. The latter is particularly impressive because it is still very wide even in the bow area.

Models with a high-pressure V-bottom as part of the hull construction are a speciality. Here, the floor itself generates quite a lot of buoyancy and is fitted with an edge at the side due to the design, which makes the boats quite tippy. This is particularly noticeable on the Plastimo Fun.

Good and bad details

How the inflatable boats row

When rowing, a good sitting position is important first. The distance between the bench and the mirror and the oarlocks is crucial. Then come the straps: is the length and size of the blades right? If the oars are too short, you will end up with a hunched back; if they are too long, you will bump into your own knees when rowing. Then, of course, the manoeuvring characteristics are particularly exciting, with straight-line travel and as little drift as possible in bends. The models from Osculati and Talamex rowed best.

However, the straps on the latter are a bit narrow, which is why we swapped them for Osculati straps as a test. That worked much better. The Yamaha 240 T had a rather bow-heavy floating position, which meant that it could only be rowed with a lot of effort. It was similar with the Seatec Nemo, where a lot of spray water came into the boat via the bow. On the Yachticon 250 AMF model, an eyelet for the side handle line was fitted in such a way that the oars hit it every time the boat was pulled. This is a pity, because otherwise the boat was convincing.

The EZ Raft is again in a special position here. The seating position is not particularly comfortable, there is no bench, you sit on top of the centre tube. At least your feet can be supported on the mirror, which is located a little further down, so you can at least build up strength when pumping. The straps are fastened with webbing and can be telescoped twice. This allows them to remain on the packed boat, which saves time during assembly and disassembly. It's possible to roll, but it's not comparable with the seating position in the other dinghies. However, with the very large air tubes, the EZ Raft offers a very high level of stability.

Which dinghy can glide with a motor?

We used a Yamaha outboard motor with 4 hp for this. With a small electric drive, all the dinghies were easy to manoeuvre. However, the differences became apparent when gliding. It is also important to know whether this is even possible.

The good news: this was not a problem for most of the boats. Only the Osculati, Yamaha 240 Air, Yamaha 240 T and the EZ Raft did not slip. One reason for this is the very high transom on the Yamaha 240 T, which would require an outboard with a long shaft. The propeller sucked in air during the test. The transom of the EZ Raft is very narrow, which is why it is twisted by the thrust of the propeller and the resulting torque. The super-light model is definitely not made for a heavy combustion engine. However, it handles well electrically. The small boats start to glide at just under 20 kilometres per hour.

The models with a slatted floor also glided off well. The Plastimo Raid II P240 was the fastest at 22.2 kilometres per hour. The Talamex, the heaviest and widest model, took a while to get going, but was then able to impress at 20.8 kilometres per hour with a particularly safe ride and little drift in the bends. One incident with the Seatec Nemo is unfortunate and the only breakage in this test: when the rider's own tail wave passed quickly, the wooden seat cracked with an audible crack. In general, the aluminium benches have the advantage that they are less bouncy, which is particularly pleasant when rowing.

The towing behaviour of the dinghies

On a summer cruise, the dinghy should not be packed away every day and put in the back box if it can simply be towed. It is crucial that it runs well behind the yacht and has the lowest possible towing resistance.

This was measured with a towing scale at a towing speed of 6.5 knots. The length of the towline is decisive here. It should not be too short, around ten metres long, and must be set precisely. This is because even a little further aft or forward is decisive for whether the dinghy goes down the stern wave or gets stuck in the wave trough. This difference can be recognised by the floating position of the dinghy and even more subtly by the towing resistance.

The same line length was always selected for the test, but then fine-tuned so that the value on the scales was the lowest. This ensured that all inflatable boats could be compared fairly. Sailors also make this adjustment when towing their dinghy. Only instead of using the towing scales, they use their instincts. The values on the scales were between 3.4 and 7.4 kilograms. That's not a lot, but the difference is important.

At 3.4 kilograms, the Plastimo Raid II towed the lightest and the Yamaha 240 Air the heaviest at 7.4. Surprisingly, the heaviest dinghy in the test, the Talamex, was below this value at 6.9. This shows that the towing resistance cannot simply be derived from the weight of the boat. The hull shape naturally has the greatest influence here.

As by far the lightest boat in the test, the EZ Raft had an average towing resistance of 5.3 kilograms. However, the value alone does not tell the whole story, the decisive factor is also how the dinghy behaves behind the yacht. The models with a moulded underwater hull scored well here. They are superior to those with a slatted bottom when towing. The Seatec Nemo and the Yamaha 240 T in particular were bumpy when towing, travelling in serpentine lines, and the Yamaha 240 T repeatedly dipped heavily with the bow. Due to the unsteady towing behaviour of the Nemo, no measured value could be determined; it weighs between 3.4 and 4.3 kilograms.

Fastening and holding options

The rating of the inflatable boats

The talamex comfortline achieves the best results across the board. however, it is also the largest boat..

The Seatec Aerotend and the Osculati also followed with good results. The latter would also have been the test winner if planing had been possible in the test. Nevertheless, it is an excellent choice for sailors who only row or use slower electric propulsion. Especially as it is also attractively priced at 800 euros.

At 430 euros, the cheapest dinghy in the test is the Nemo from Seatec. However, there are significant drawbacks in terms of stability, ergonomics when rowing, the floating position (splash water) and towing behaviour. It is a shame that the Yachticon Crazy4Boating 250 AMF loses a lot of points for the plastic eyelet, which interferes with rowing. It can be a very good choice for owners who only want to travel with an outboard motor. The dinghy offers plenty of space, high stability and is well equipped.

The Yamaha 240 T brings up the rear. Standing on the narrow slats of the floor is unsafe, rowing is difficult with hardly any lateral guidance, gliding is not possible, and even the 14.1 kilometres per hour did not feel safe and controlled in any way, and it is also not so easy to tow. Definitely not recommended for purchase.

The EZ Raft is not so easy to compare, it would finish in the lower midfield. It can do some things worse than the competition (seating position, rowing, planing), but in terms of weight and pack size the others don't even come close. So if space on board is very limited or the yacht is very weight-sensitive, the EZ Raft may have no alternative, regardless of its weaknesses. The low weight has the advantage that the EZ Raft can be easily lifted over the railing into the water with one hand.

With the Talamex weighing over 30 kilograms, the large halyard is more advisable to lower the dinghy. However, the heavy test winner also offers almost the comfort of a rib, i.e. an inflatable boat with a GRP underwater hull, which increases stability and ride comfort, but also increases the pack size. We measured this after packing and not when the boat was new. The former value is much more realistic, but can also vary slightly. If it no longer fits in the back box after packing, it is all the better if the dinghy can be towed easily in case of doubt.

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