sandpiper sailboat review

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Thinking of buying a Sandpiper had a few question

• Thread starter Jamie
• Start date Aug 8, 2006
• Brand-Specific Forums
• Other Sailboats

I was thinking of buying a sandpiper. I have no idea how to sail and my first question is would this be a good boat to learn on. Also is there much maintenance on a boat like this. Third question is how long of a trip could I go on with a boat like this. Would I be able to Sail from PEI to say the Magdalen Islands safely or would that be to far a trip for one of these boats. If so anyone know how long it would take to make a journey like that at an average speed. Any info would be greatly appreciated.  

The Sandpiper as a first boat I learned to sail ( We never stop to learn really!) on a Sandpiper. I still sail on her and I have no plan to change boat. I think it is a very good boat to learn on. It is safe and stable as many bigger boats but it requires good attention at the same times. About maintenance, I could say "Big boat+ big troubles and $$$. The Piper is a simple and modest little boat but it is rock solid. It is not very fast ( + or- 5 knots) in a good wind but I dont see why it could not engage in short sea going voyages as you mention.These boats were made in England some times ago and many were sailing in the english channel. It tells something about its sea going capacities.  

David Stanley Smith ([email protected])

first boat I would recommend the Sandpiper as a first boat. However, every small boat is a compromise of price, performance, portability(including launch and recovery ease), towing weight, accomodation, seaworthiness, resale value, etc. Furthermore, one's choice is also determined by what's available. I think around 1200 Sandpipers were built, so there's usually one available somewhere. Then there's the matter of rigging. If you do everything alone, then the lighter the rig, the easier it is to step the mast etc. Some years ago, I owned a West Wight Potter 15, and rigging and launching was total simplicity. I next owned a Siren 17 and found the rig easy to pop up single handed without any lifting mechanism. The Sandpiper rig is a little heavier again, but can still be raised by one person. However, I would like an additionl person available during mast raising and launching. Towing weight is also an issue. A Sandpiper with trailer, gear,and outboard could weigh around 1600 pounds or more. This is at or beyond the towing limit of some four-cylinder cars. With my Potter, it was an easy matter to launch for a short afternoon sail. Launching the Sandpiper for a short sail is more of a time commitment. Learning to sail one of these boats is not difficult. I would suggest finding someone who knows how to sail to go along with you a couple of times in order to learn the technique. As for maintenance, it really depends on how fussy you are about appearance and whether the boat has been looked after by the previous owner(s). I keep my boat under a full tarp in the off season and keep the boat cut-polished and waxed. I also keep all the woodwork varnished and have added many little "improvements"; consequently, I probably do more maintenance than others. Would I take the boat offshore? To some degree, yes, but I think boats like the Sandpiper are really designed as coastal boats, so in my opinion, a sixty mile offshore trip might be pushing the limit. (I have the indulgence of a second boat--a twin keel British Westerly--if I want to venture farther). I have equipped my Sandpiper with reinforced stanchion and rail supports and complete lifelines etc., but would still think twice about straying too far offshore. After all, the Sandpiper has a fairly light rig. People have sailed smaller boats across oceans, but they are usually VERY experienced, and the boats are usually modified and reinforced to some degree. Good luck on your search for a Sandpiper.  

New Sandpiper owner After years of ski boats and jet skis, I just got a sandpiper (hull 704) from my wife for our 30th anniversary. I had checked out a number of other boats with sailer friends, and glad I did as this is one awesome lot of fun to sail. Still very much in leaning mode - I now know what a boomvang is and to yell hard a lee when I am turning, but I am really enjoying getting out and just sailing.Are there other owners in the Maritimes??Mike  

I'll echo the previous posters Hi Jamie. I have owned my Sandpiper for 6 years now. It is my first sailboat, and has been a joy to own and sail. It's a terrific boat to learn about sailing, which is the trailering, rigging launching, sailing and boat maintenance. It is great for trailering around to various destinations, and pretty easy to rig and launch. As David said, boats are a compromise. The Potter and Siren he mentions are perhaps easier to rig up, but lack the cabin space of a 'piper. Maintenance is up to you. If you find a boat that is a fixer upper, then of course you will have some work to do. These boat were made from the early '70;s to the early mid 80's, so how they have been looked after by previous owners is very important. I would advise you to get someone with some experience to look over any possible purchase before laying your money down. The best person to evaluate a boat is a surveyor, but they cost money. A surveyor is a little overkill for a Sandpiper, but it may be your only choice. ALL sailboats require maintenance of some sort. I'd have to say from my experiences, from reading forums, magazines, and talking to other sailors, that the Sandpiper's maintenance requirements are moderate, to minimal(depending on personal preference and the quaity of the boat to start with). Also due to it's size, rigging, sails and parts are less expensive.As far as cruising is concerned, I've stayed aboard for 4 days, with one crew, or with my two sons. Others have cruised for a week or more. Read up as much as you can about boats and sailing. I read Sailing for Dummies, when I first got my boat. It's an easy book to read, and covers just about everything you'll need to know to sail a Sandpiper.Good luck in your search.Eric  

Got good news for u I have enjoyed a sandpiper for 5-6 years now, we had sailed bigger boats with bigger commitments before and have indeed appreciated her simplicity and ease of maneuvring. She's a doll. I was looking at the market, trying to find comparables, but there appear to be none fos sale anywhere! People just hang on to them, as they are so convenient and affordable to keep, I guess. So let me know if you're still on the market, as I will be taking pictures and posting ads on boats.com and possibly ebay. She is in exceptional shape, with lots of extras (newer motor, dodger + full cockpit enclosure, barbecue, upgrade interior and perfect gelcoat and teak all around)It's still at her dock, will probably be ou by next week-end, so if you want to take her out, reply soon!Paul[email protected]450-458-3200  

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Boat Profile

An easily built skiff for sail and oar

From Issue   May 2021

C onrad Natzio originally designed the 14′ Sandpiper for a workshop and demonstration at the Boat ’99 show in the United Kingdom. The first four of these attractive little sailing and rowing skiffs were built by groups of beginners with a bit of supervision over a four-day period at that show, using only the hand tools found in a typical do-it-yourselfer’s kit. The primary considerations in Sandpiper’s design were the ease and speed of construction. The Sandpiper is intended for sheltered, shallow water, and inland sailing or rowing. The weight was kept to a minimum to make trailering and launching quick and easy.

My 17-year-old son, Kyle, built the Sandpiper as his senior project that he needed to complete for graduation from high school. Neither of us had built a boat before, but a boat that could be built by beginners in four days gave us hope that we could complete the task in the four months left in the school year. Before ordering the plans, we spent a few hours taping together cardboard strips cut from cereal boxes to create some crude models and prove to ourselves that such an attractive hull shape could actually be achieved by using flat, straight-edged panels.

The plan set supplied by Conrad included two large plan sheets with scaled drawings, and a 10-page booklet—a reprint from Practical Woodworking , the magazine that sponsored the Boat ’99 project—with detailed instructions and helpful photos taken during the construction of the prototype. Our boatbuilding project was given a boost by a master-carpenter neighbor who agreed to become Kyle’s advisor for the project and let us move some of his power tools into our greenhouse-turned-workshop. While this gave us the advantage of having an array of tools considerably beyond the average household toolkit, as well as invaluable woodworking advice whenever we needed it, none of the techniques required to build this little skiff would be beyond the scope of the average skill set.

Instead of building the sides of the skiff around frames fixed to a strongback, the sides are bent and the frames are built into them. A long table extended with sheets of plywood supports the work; a strongback is not required.

Construction of the Sandpiper hull is fairly straightforward and requires four sheets of 1/4″ plywood and some 3/4″ lumber for frames and longitudinal elements. Neither lofting, strongback, nor building jig is required. A set of sawhorses that can be fastened to the floor bring the work up to a comfortable level and provides a firm foundation for any required planing or sawing. We made the frames out of 3/4″ Douglas-fir that had been milled from big-box-store 2x4s and then assembled to the plan dimensions with double plywood gussets. (When our carpenter neighbor noticed the finished 3/4″ pieces, he remarked that we could have saved a lot of time by just by buying 3/4″ fir flooring.) Most of the fastening was done with bronze ring-shank nails and polyurethane glue. The straight-edged side panels were glued up from two pieces of 1/4″ marine plywood, as was the bottom panel. To get the lengths needed for the sides and bottom, each panel required a butt-block joint, secured with glue and copper rivets. The 1/4″-thick butt blocks were hardly noticeable in the boat’s interior, and the smooth seams on the outside almost disappeared under a few coats of paint.

The straight-edged panels get their shape from the curve from stem to transom; the bottom gets its rocker and the sheer its sweep from the sides’ flare.

After the ends of the plywood sides were cut to the angle specified in the plans, the attractive hull took shape by bending them around the ’midship frame. We constructed the three main frames and the transom frame from our pile of 3/4″ stock, carefully choosing the best, knot-free pieces. Once the sides were bent and secured to the frames and transom, we flipped the hull over onto a pair of sawhorses to work on the external chine logs, which provide a wide surface for attaching the bottom. They, along with the plywood sides they’re attached to, need to be planed to create a flat surface to accept the bottom piece. A 4′ level was all it took to check the accuracy of the bevel. The oversized bottom panel is held down with weights and traced inside and out to create a perfect fit.

T he completed Sandpiper was remarkably light. Conrad claims 132 lbs for the hull, and I think Kyle’s build came in very close to that weight. When doing any seasonal maintenance while the boat is on the trailer, I can easily lift one side up and slip a foam block or cushion under it to gain a little extra clearance over the trailer bunk. I can roll the skiff off the trailer singlehandedly, but I prefer another set of hands if I need to roll it over for any bottom work.

Trailering the Sandpiper is almost effortless, even with our four-cylinder car. It slides easily on the trailer’s carpeted bunks and, if we are planning to sail, we hang the rudder in advance. The design calls for an endplate of double-layered 1/4″ plywood, 4-1/2″ wide on the bottom of the rudder, which keeps it even with the bottom of the hull. The endplate gives the rudder a better grip in the water, especially when the boat is heeled while sailing. The twin bilge keels, as they are called in the plans, are 3”-deep runners on the bottom that are designed to give the Sandpiper windward sailing ability in thin water. They also serve as helpful guides between the trailer bunks to keep the boat aligned on the trailer during launch and retrieval. Set well away from the centerline, these runners turn the boat into a steady platform on the beach, and they help to protect the bottom when dragged over a log or gravel bar on the river.

With a solo rower aboard, the Sandpiper sits lightly on the water.

The three thwarts in the design provide ample seating, and Kyle has made river rowing outings with as many as five young people aboard. The center thwart and forward thwart serve as the rowing stations. We have never shipped two pairs of oars, and that likely would require a passenger in the stern for trim. The bilge keels keep the Sandpiper tracking beautifully under oars while the generous rocker in the hull allows for easy, graceful turns. The boat carries its way well between strokes. The 8’ oars we use are too long to stow beneath the thwarts, so we usually bungee them to the seat risers on either side. When the boat is rigged for sail, the bow thwart is crowded by the mast, but it is still usable as a rowing station for short pulls without dropping the sailing rig.

The bilge keels help with windward sailing in shallow water, but for sailing in deeper water, Conrad includes a scaled drawing for a Bolger-type leeboard, which leaves the space in the center of the boat completely open. A passenger can sit on a cushion between the forward and center thwarts and, with an extra cushion for a backrest, have a comfortable, safe position low enough to be clear of the foot of the sail during tacks or jibes. The absence of a centerboard trunk makes it easy to switch positions and stay on the upwind side. For our camping trips, we added two removable sections of slatted floorboards either side of the central frame to help keep gear and our rear ends dry. The floorboards would be useful for a solo camp-cruiser to provide a flat, dry platform for sleeping, but they also add some unneeded weight. Since we are mostly daysailing in protected waters, we leave them in the garage until they’re needed.

With three aboard, the boat still has plenty of freeboard.

Conrad gives some indications of possible flotation schemes for the Sandpiper in his booklet. Included with the plans are pictures of Conrad singlehandedly capsizing and refloating the boat, but it is evident that he is in shallow water on a calm day and probably standing on the bottom. There is room in both the bow and stern to build in airtight or foam-filled flotation compartments. We considered adding rigid foam under the thwarts or lashing inflatable beach rollers to the seat risers, and if more ambitious expeditions were anticipated, those type of additions might be wise. In our protected sailing grounds, we have not felt that those extra measures are necessary.

The plans provide drawings for a standing (balanced) lug sail or a spritsail sloop with a mainsail area of 57.6 sq ft and a jib of 12.7 sq ft; we chose the latter, and added a sprit boom to keep the sail in a better shape when going downwind while also keeping the cockpit free of low-hanging lumber. The spritsail rig appealed to us for its traditional look and the lightness of each spar. We anticipated a lot of close tacking while river sailing, and liked the idea of being able to back the jib to aid in those maneuvers.

The main is laced to the mast with the throat lashed to the masthead. While it can’t be lowered, removing the sprit and folding the sail along the throat-to-clew diagonal—known as scandalizing—is an effective way of reducing sail area. The jib has a halyard and its two sheets are led through cam cleats set in oarlock sockets (as learned from an article on techniques in this magazine). The mainsheet has evolved from getting looped behind the aft stub of the riser and changed from side to side on each tack, to running through a pulley lashed to the sprit boom and a fiddle block on a rope horse over the tiller.

The single leeboard slips over the gunwale; its two parallel legs, set inboard, straddle the central frame rib. The leeboard’s lateral area is especially effective for sailing closehauled and, with a little practice, the board can be raised easily when coming into a beach or to reduce drag when sailing off the wind. The leeboard sets parallel to the flared side, so it is close to vertical when set on the windward side, and sharply angled when to leeward, but we have not seen much difference in the leeway made from one tack to the other while leaving the board set on one side. The leeboard does not pivot, so we have suffered a few unfortunate groundings at speed that snapped one of the supporting legs. This season we will be experimenting with a pivoting board set on a robust frame.

The spritsail sloop rig carries 57.6 sq ft in the main and 12.7 sq ft in the jib. The sprit boom was added by the builder to increase the spread of the main on downwind runs.

The only major modification we made to the original design was purely an accommodation for this aging skipper. The sprit rig uses three spars (mast, sprit, and sprit boom), which all stow within the boat for trailering. For 10 years I was happy picking up all three spars with the sails laced on and slipping the mast butt through the forward thwart and into its step. But last year, on increasingly unsteady legs, I found it more difficult to get the mast raised safely. We have constructed an oak tabernacle so that I can easily and safely pivot the rig upright. With this new arrangement I hope to derive another decade’s enjoyment of this sweet little boat.

Dan Pratt lives in the Pioneer Valley of Western Massachusetts where he almost swallowed the anchor 30 years ago to start a small organic farm. Canoeing on rivers, lakes, and ponds for over a decade left him wanting more than just the wind in his hair, and created a craving for wind in a sail. Having turned his back on small-boat racing and Buzzard’s Bay camp-cruising so many years ago, he was delighted when his youngest son took up boatbuilding.

Sandpiper Particulars

Length: 13′ 9″

Beam: 4′ 8″

Hull weight: 132 lbs

Sail area, sloop: 70 sq ft

January 2024: The designer’s website is no longer active but plans are still available. You can reach designer Conrad Natzio via email at [email protected] or by phone in the UK at +44 1394 382537.

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats Magazine readers would enjoy? Please email us!

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Comments (7)

Beautiful design, simple although elegant. I have the plans for this boat and perhaps it’s time I get started building. While the price of ply is crazy right now, life is short at best. I bought these plans years ago when a check in Sterling was possible in my area, that said, I’d like a couple other of Mr. Natzio’s plans although have discovered it’s very difficult to obtain a check in Sterling now. Any suggestions?

Perhaps a mail money order or a bank transfer if Conrad Natzio gives you the bank account number. I think also PayPal could be used.

Thanks for the feedback.

I would be interested in the design of the tabernacle mentioned in the article. Also how is sailing with just the sprit sail, no jib?

Can anyone direct me to a link where I can order these plans?

Try email [email protected] Also, his address: 15 Lanyard Place, Woodbridge, Suffolk IP12 1FE, United Kingdom.

These data are from his advertisement. In 2023 I bought Sandpiper plans.

I’ve been in touch with the designer and while his website is no longer active, plans are still available. You can reach designer Conrad Natzio via email at [email protected] or by phone in the UK at +44 1394 382537.

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• Sailboat Guide

Sandpiper 565

Sandpiper 565 is a 18 ′ 6 ″ / 5.6 m monohull sailboat designed by Leonardo da Costa Sayago and built by C&L Boatworks starting in 1972.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The SANDPIPER 565 was first manufactured in 1972 by Sandpiper Marine Ltd. of Southampton, England. Later built by CL Sailboats (formerly C&L Boatworks) of Canada. (Royalties not paid) Another version was built under license in Sweden called OCKELBO OS 19.

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The day had dawned blustery, clear and cool, with winds gusting to around 20 knots. The fleet of 18 Marshall Sandpiper 15-foot catboats, all fighting for the world championship, had made a clean start for the first race of the seventh biannual Catboat Rendezvous, held on Southwest Florida's tiny Useppa Island. Spray rushed past the gleaming fiberglass hulls. A pod of bottlenose dolphins wove its way through the competitors. Perennial winners Richard Dimmit, Bill Welch and Mike Albert were leading the pack, and had already opened up a four-boat-length lead on the rest of us. Kurt Stocker and I, sailing Kurt's 5-year-old catboat Ragtime were dead last. And not happy about it.

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Sandpiper 565 review

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Re: Sandpiper 565 review

Post by lustyslogger » Mon Apr 29, 2013 12:47 pm

Michel wrote: I really enjoy relax sailing. Sometimes, when the wind is weak, I barely can make way against the current but it is not a problem!...

Post by TitusTiger » Tue Apr 30, 2013 3:00 am

Post by lustyslogger » Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:26 pm

TitusTiger wrote: in the 80's I had a LoneStar 13 and I just realized my sailing days waned when I bought a motorcycle. both are fair weather vehicles....

Post by Michel » Tue Apr 30, 2013 10:42 pm

Post by lustyslogger » Wed May 01, 2013 1:05 pm

Michel wrote: Before I got my sailboat, I was riding an old Goldwing. I bought the boat and the motorcycle was not used for the rest of the season. I sold it and I never looked back since.

Post by Michel » Wed May 01, 2013 10:08 pm

Post by TitusTiger » Fri May 03, 2013 12:07 am

Post by Michel » Fri May 03, 2013 12:52 am

Post by lustyslogger » Fri May 03, 2013 1:42 pm

Michel wrote: Just a cheap radio. The kind with the handle you have to spin to recharge the battery! I like to get to sleep with some music at anchor.

Post by Michel » Fri May 03, 2013 4:31 pm

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Review of Sandpiper 15

Basic specs., sailing characteristics.

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Sandpiper 15 is 2.78, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 5.0 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Sandpiper 15 is about 61 kg/cm, alternatively 346 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 61 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 346 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio) Indicates how fast the boat is in light wind: - Cruising Boats have ratios 10-15 - Cruiser-Racers have ratios 16-20 - Racers have ratios above 20 - High-Performance Racers have ratios above 24 Sail-area/displacement ratio (SA/D ratio): 25.57

Maintenance

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section shown boat owner's changes, improvements, etc. Here you might find inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what to look for.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Sandpiper 15 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

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Sandpiper 8 Dinghy

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I bought on of those a few years ago at the boat show. What I was supprised about was its life.. When not un use, I kept it bottom-side-up on the dock... The material borke down in just a few mounths and it fell apart.. I ended up sending it off in the trash can... The cost wasnt that much but I though it should last more than one season... If you keep it outside, keep it covered.......  

They are made of "ABS Plastic" with a foam core. I'm surprised too, because during the bit of research I did, most sources seemed to list "durable" as an attribute.  

It probably rows better than an inflatable, since it is a rigid dinghy and less energy is lost to the flexing of the boat. The material may not be well UV-stabilized, so covering the dinghy is probably a good and cheap precaution to take.  

Yes, I researched these boats a while back and someone had also mentioned that it lacked good UV stabilization - in fact I recall speaking to someone at the company and they recommended keeping it covered when not in use....  

Well im glad i spend my money on a used Avon. I was going to buy one of these and was still considering it, but not now. Ive been thinking of picking up a little fibrelgass dingy thats like the Sandpiper and building a mold from it to make me a damn good dingy. Think i could sell them?  

SVDistantStar said: Well im glad i spend my money on a used Avon. I was going to buy one of these and was still considering it, but not now. Ive been thinking of picking up a little fibrelgass dingy thats like the Sandpiper and building a mold from it to make me a damn good dingy. Think i could sell them? Click to expand...

Well, if nothing else, my two daughters love the little Sandpiper. They're gonna have a blast on it next summer. We'll walk it down to the river this weekend for a "sea trial".  

SailingDog, Yea ive thought about that. I was thinking if i did it, i would change a few things on the hull to make it not 100% like the older one. Eh, its just been a dream of mine for some years to do that.  

Wild guess: Dinghy cost: 150$ Protective paint cost: 200$  

I did build one of glass.. was looking at the fatty knees but the price was so high, I decided to build one myself.. I started with what you might call a nutshell, and built a mold off the boat, then laid up the ding.. I built it a little heaver than I had to and I'm still modifying the little boat after a few years of service.. The only time you get into "copyright" problems is when you go into business selling boat you made... If you keep it for yourself, theres no problem... I will admit, I sold the mold to another guy who made his own ding.. and I think he then sold the mold to someone else.. What I made off the mold, paid for the material I built the ding out of...  

Actually, copyright infringment doesn't require the sale of the infringing material, at least in the United States. If this were no the case, then you could borrow a DVD from the library and legally copy it for your own use... which is illegal.  

Well, at the moment the little Sandpiper will rest through the winter in my garage. Hopefully next spring she'll stay tied up in the water beneath my dock in the shade. If I have bottom paint left over after doing my sailboat in the spring, I'll use it up on the dink.  

I have a Sandpiper and they need a keel of some kind to give them some directional control when rowing. You could add a small keel or skeg and that would defeat the patent. Sailson  

I am on my second one. The ABS doese break fown. 1 or 2 seasons. I am looking for a repair material. So far nothing permanent. I like mine. Tows and rows great The light in your profile pic looks like Detour Reef?  

I have had a SandPiper 8 as a dingy for the past 5 seasons. I store it outdoors during the winter either on deck or in my backyard. Snow, rain and sun no issue. Great little boat. Very easy to row. No longer made by Bass Hunter but modified and still sold.  

Attachments

That's a nice boat. Where do you sit to row it?  

Hardwood seat sits across on the lip inside. It was out during the photos for refinishing.  

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• Sailboat Reviews

Chrysler 22

One of just a few boats ever built by a car company, this trailer sailer still looks good today..

We’re still not sure if there’s a nationwide resurgence of interest in trailer sailers, but judging from the mail we receive, it certainly seems so. One of the used boats often mentioned is the Chrysler 22. It, like the 15′ Man O’War, 15′ Mutineer, 16′ 6″ Musketeer catamaran, 18′ Buccaneer and Chrysler 26 trailerable cruising sloop, were built by Chrysler Corporation’s Marine Products Group in Detroit, Michigan.

According to the BUC Research Used Boat Price Guide, Chrysler first offered recreational boats in 1957, building three aluminum runabouts and cruisers from 16′ to 21′. Its first fiberglass boat was the Caribbean 19′ cruiser in 1958. The Buccaneer was the first sailboat in the Chrysler line, introduced in 1971. The Chrysler 22 appeared in 1975. Just when Chrysler stopped building it is uncertain, but according to BUC, 1979 was the last year; we have not received information from readers owning boats built later than that, so perhaps ’79 was indeed the finale.

Two readers who responded to a 1995 appeal for information on Chrysler sailboat parts agreed that in the mid-80s Chrysler sold the molds and rights to the Starwind Division of Wellcraft Marine in Sarasota, Florida. Wellcraft is a large builder of powerboats. Starwind, according to one reader, “tooled up a more conventional deck mold and evidently sold some boats before it went under. That reader said a former Chrysler employee told him that the assets were purchased by a Brazilian-owned company in Florida which relocated back to Brazil. Another reader says that Wellcraft sold the molds and rights to Spindrift, which sold them to Rebel, which “was in the process of going out of business.” A third reader says it was produced for a time as the TMI 22 (Texas Marine International, which according to yet another source, bought the molds from Chrysler and in turn sold them to Wellcraft). No one seems to know where the molds are today.

The Chrysler 22 was designed by Halsey Herreshoff, now the city manager of Bristol, Rhode Island, the town where Nathaniel Herreshoff built so many great boats at the turn of the century. Halsey has designed a number of interesting boats, including the original hull for the Freedom 40.

The 22 was conceived as a trailer sailer with a swing keel that draws just 1′ 11″ up, though a fixed keel drawing 3′ 9″ also was available.

To maximize interior volume, the deck is more or less flush, though highly cambered. The deck fairs into the cockpit coaming, which leads cleanly into the backrests. There is a partial bridgedeck, unusual for a boat like this. The companionway widens at the coachroof to make cabin access more convenient. A pop top was optional, but these are always prone to leaking; a number of readers said they seldom use theirs.

Somewhat unusual is the inboard rudder, which pivots up for shallow water. There are numerous complaints about its sturdiness; and one reader said it is positioned too far forward.

The mast is mounted on a hinge and an early ad says there is a mast carrier to “make rigging simple.”

The boat displaces anywhere from 2,650 lbs. to 3,000 lbs. (depending on which brochure you believe), a bit heavier than most trailer sailers of this length. The Catalina 22, for example, displaces 1,850 lbs., the O’Day 22 and Venture 22 both 1,800 lbs. Ballast is 725 lbs., which is a lot of weight to carry in a swing keel.

Construction

The hull is of hand-laid fiberglass with a full inner liner. Foam flotation was standard. One owner said the core is Nomex; this is an aircraft honeycomb that achieved some notoriety for its use in the Stiletto 27 catamaran. Airex coring was reported by another owner. The owner of a 1977 model said the “deck has a brown water soluble glue throughout, that when it rains seeps into the cabin.”

While owners rate quality of construction as above average to excellent, a number of problems were cited in our questionnaires. These include leaks at the keel pivot pin, broken rudders (the original rudderstocks and cheeks were aluminum, the former being hollow; some have been replaced with stainless), weak spreaders, and poor quality turnbuckles.

One owner replaced the bulkheads, which seems like a rather extreme measure. “The factory bulkheads are probably strong enough,” he said, “but I replaced all of them with much heavier material.”

On the plus side, nearly all agree that the hull is heavily laid up, and that the spars are larger sections than one would expect on a boat of this size. Fittings were said to be of satisfactory quality. The trailer supplied by Chrysler is only adequate; a number of owners said it would be better to buy a heavier-duty trailer elsewhere. A double-axle trailer with brakes is recommended.

In the October 1, 1995 issue, we published under “Spare Parts” a source for some Chrysler parts, given to us by Hooper’s Yachts, 599 Manning Ave. S., Afton, MN 55001; 612/436-8795.

Bill Hooper said that his yard has worked on many Chrysler boats over the years, and has found some parts from Cardinal Yachts, Rte. 3, Box 1080, Gloucester, VA 23061.

Performance

Many owners report that light air performance is not exactly sparkling, attributing this to the boat’s relatively heavy displacement. The sail area/displacement ratio of 16.5 isn’t bad, however. In fact, owners spacious who bought larger genoas (up to 170%) report significant increases in sailing speeds.

In terms of stability, initial tenderness was a frequent comment, though ultimate stability was not a concern. The boat is claimed to be self-righting, even with the keel up. “Goes to about 22 degrees quickly, then stops. Cannot put rail under,” said one owner. The few owners of fixed keel models noted how much stiffer their boats are than the swing keel models.

To get the most out of the boat, owners suggest playing with the keel angle (which helps minimize weather helm) and installing the usual sail handling devices: larger boom vang, down haul, better quality traveler and so on. Several said that the keel was not faired particularly well, and that grinding it smooth and fair produces a noticeable improvement in performance.

The same was said about converting to mid-boom sheeting.

In summary, the boat performs best in moderate winds, and by using the various controls available, it will balance reasonably well and sail at average speeds.

Auxiliary power is furnished by an outboard mounted on the transom bracket. Models mentioned include Honda 5 and 10, Johnson 6 and 9.9, Seagull 5, Chrysler 6 and 10, and Evinrude 9.9., all long shafts. The separate, sealed tank compartment is much admired. Remote controls are regarded as a great convenience as well as a safety feature.

The basic plan provides for a V-berth forward, convertible dinette to port and a berth/settee to starboard, which may be occupied at times by the optional slide out galley. The $375 cost of the galley unit was considered overpriced by at least one respondent.

Some have made their own.

The partial bulkheads give a sense of spaciousness, which is important in a small boat with just sitting headroom. The centerboard trunk is not too tall, but does have an effect on moving around. A few owners said they thought that the cockpit suffered at the expense of the interior; the tiller extends to the bridgedeck, meaning that everybody in the cockpit will be in the way of the helmsman.

As mentioned earlier, there is a full inner liner or pan that predetermines the location and use of most spaces. Nevertheless, many owners report customizing the interior. Most often mentioned is the making of their own galley module. A few have raised the bridgedeck to the cockpit seat level. A few have upgraded the electrical panel.

The large V-berth is an attractive feature, and probably worth the absence of a private head (a portable toilet is located underneath). The sloping deck does diminish headroom forward, however.

The Chrysler 22 is still much admired for its clean lines and good looks. The option list, as with many small boats of its day, was long: pulpits and lifelines, galley and water tank, portable cooler, outboard bracket, toilet, curtains, backstay adjuster, running lights, mainsail cover, cushions, boom vang and more. Presumably, most used boats on the market today have these “accessories.”

We have always enjoyed customizing our boats, but do so with extreme caution, because when it comes time to sell (and every boat is sold sooner or later), it could be difficult finding a buyer who likes the reclino-lounge chair and navigation table you’ve installed in place of the dinette! We’d be wary of buying a boat with oddball “upgrades.”

The area of most concern with the Chrysler 22 is the rudder and rudderstock; if it still has the original hollow aluminum stock, we’d plan on replacing it. This probably will require some custom metalwork from a shop.

One should be able to buy a Chrysler 22 for somewhere between $4,000 and $5,000, depending on condition and equipment, the trailer and motor being the two most important pieces of extra gear. For an introduction to the joys of cruising, we think it’s one of the better mid-70s trailer sailers, though we’d also take a good look at a couple of other boats: the Tanzer 22 and O’Day 23.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Cardinal Yachts, Harry Sindle was building the Mutineer and Buccaneer in Ware Neck Virginia in the early 90’s I also saw a few Rhodes 22’s and Hamptons.

Does the Chrysler 22 have a drain plug? I’m looking at one that’s been sitting for several years, water about 6” over the floor.

1. Get a siphon hose placed low in the boat and draw out the water into the low end of the cockpit. 2. Get a half gallon plastic water pitcher. Sit inside the cabin with your feet in the water and begin bailing into the cockpit. 3. Get a small 12 volt bilge pump or baitwell pump and drop it into the water.

Hi All, I bought a C-22 a few years ago, the water in the bottom was from the swing keel fittings leaking. I would recommend replacing the fittings and pin, don’t worry the fittings are made of pipe flange & fittings. Also to prevent keel klunk and the keel wearing thru the hull i used a nylon cutting board to fill the gap on each side of the swing pin. using 3M 4200 adhesive its worked fine. the adhesive needs to be used once its opened so have everything cut and fitted. I just got on this site today, our long winter at lake Superior has tested my patience……I’ve also started a u-tube channel with some random vidieos, I promise to have more instructional vidieos this year including the sail pack and new solar panel installation i made “Sailing Lake Superior George Kramer”

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