iwc portugieser yacht club chronograph review

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A Smaller IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Still Looms Large

IWC tweaked the size of its sporty Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph — and now it’s even better than before.

By Jason Heaton

1 original photo

When Boston native Florentine Ariosto Jones arrived in Switzerland in the mid-1860s to set up a watch company based on the modern industrial techniques of the American watch industry, he found little welcome in Geneva. So he headed east to Schaffhausen, where he found a small community of watchmakers who built timepieces in the German tradition — less artisanal flourish, more overbuilt sturdiness — and a river to power a factory. It seemed an ideal place to put down stakes; Jones settled there, built workshops on the bank of the Rhine and called his new company the International Watch Company.

Throughout the 20th century, IWC watches evolved from its first sturdy pocketwatches to the pilot’s watches worn by both German and British air force flyers to groundbreaking dive watches and antimagnetic scientists’ timepieces. The overriding theme of all of these watches was rugged and innovative practicality. In the 1930s, some Portuguese watch retailers approached IWC with a request to build a handful of oversized watches with accurate pocket watch movements. These large wristwatches went against the trend of the day, which favored smaller diameters, but swimming against the tide was not unusual for IWC and the Portuguese went on to become perhaps IWC’s most recognizable and beloved watch line.

Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

At the SIHH watch fair in January, IWC debuted a refresh of its Portugieser ( auf Deutsch, natürlich ) family of watches. Cases returned to traditional design cues, with more graceful lines and some vintage-inspired dials. New movements and complications were added, like a beautiful annual calendar and a halo timepiece, the grand complication. One piece carried over from the previous generation is the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, a decidedly sporty watch with a name that is a nod to both the historic Portugieser family and a 1970s IWC called the Yacht Club.

IWC has always been known for its oversized watches and the last iteration of the Yacht Club Chrono was no exception at a burly 45mm. But the new version received a slight tweak and now comes in at a more svelte 43.5mm, which doesn’t seem like a big change, but on the wrist it is a far better-proportioned and more comfortable watch. The movement inside is IWC’s innovative in-house 89365 calibre, with a healthy 68-hour power reserve and a combined hour/minute counter that makes elapsed time read-off intuitive and quick. With its seafaring name, it stands to reason that IWC fits the watch with a rubber strap and a screw-in crown, giving it a respectable 60 meters of water resistance. Any deeper and it dips into dive watch territory, a place no skipper wants to be during an afternoon on the water.

Since 2011, IWC has been the official timekeeper of the round-the-world sailing Volvo Ocean Race, and the Yacht Club Chronograph, the watch given to the team that sets the record for the fastest 24-hour time during the race. It is a fitting watch for this epic race, in name and design, though, bashing through 40-foot waves rounding Cape Horn, we might be inclined to stow it in our kit bag, given its $12,000 sticker price.

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IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 Review: A Timepiece of Elegance

by Thomas Jentzsch on June 26, 2023

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a timepiece that exudes elegance and sophistication. It is a watch that is both functional and stylish, making it a popular choice among watch enthusiasts and collectors. The Portugieser collection was first introduced by IWC in the 1930s, and since then, it has become one of the brand's most iconic and recognizable lines. The Yacht Club Chronograph is a modern interpretation of the classic Portugieser design, featuring a sleek and sporty look that is perfect for those who enjoy water sports and outdoor activities. In this review, we will take a closer look at the features and design of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, and explore why it is a must-have for any watch enthusiast.

Brand Summary

IWC is a luxury Swiss watch brand that has been around since 1868. The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a high-end timepiece that is designed for sailors and yachting enthusiasts. This watch features a sleek and stylish design, with a blue dial and silver hands. It also has a chronograph function, which allows the wearer to measure elapsed time. The watch is powered by an automatic movement and is water-resistant up to 60 meters. Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a premium watch that combines style and functionality, making it a great choice for anyone who loves sailing or the ocean.

Get the full Technical Details –>

Watch Details

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a sophisticated and sporty timepiece that combines the elegance of the iconic Portugieser line with the functionality of a chronograph. Released in 2010, this model is part of the esteemed Portugieser collection, known for its timeless design and exceptional craftsmanship. With its nautical-inspired aesthetics and reliable performance, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 has gained popularity among watch enthusiasts and individuals who appreciate a versatile and stylish timepiece.

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is widely available and can be purchased at authorized IWC boutiques and selected retailers worldwide. Its availability and distribution make it easily accessible to those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece.

Encased in a robust stainless steel case with a diameter of 43.5mm, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 exudes a sense of refinement and durability. The case is complemented by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, ensuring clear visibility of the dial while providing reliable protection against daily wear and tear.

Powering this exceptional timepiece is the precise and reliable IWC Caliber 89361 automatic movement. With a power reserve of approximately 68 hours, the watch ensures accurate timekeeping and convenience for the wearer. The movement can be admired through the transparent case back, showcasing the craftsmanship and attention to detail.

The dial of the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 features a clean and legible design, with applied silver hour markers and hands. The chronograph subdials at 6 and 12 o’clock provide additional functionality and add to the watch’s sporty appeal. The date window at 3 o’clock adds practicality to the watch’s functionality.

With a water resistance rating of 60 meters (6 bar), the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 offers versatility and durability for various water activities. It can withstand splashes, rain, and even swimming, but it is not suitable for diving or other water sports.

In terms of pricing, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is positioned in the higher end of the luxury watch market. Prices may vary depending on factors such as location and retailer, but prospective buyers can expect to invest between $10,000 and $15,000 USD for this exceptional timepiece.

In summary, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a sophisticated and sporty watch that combines elegant design with exceptional functionality. Its widespread availability, combined with its competitive price range, makes it an attractive option for those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece. With its stainless steel case, refined dial, and reliable movement, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 represents IWC’s commitment to creating watches that offer enduring style and exceptional performance. Whether you’re on land or at sea, this timepiece is a testament to IWC’s dedication to craftsmanship and luxury.

Key Features

• Stainless steel case
• Blue dial with white subdials
• Automatic movement
• 44.6mm case diameter
• Water-resistant up to 60 meters
• Chronograph function with flyback feature
• Date display at 3 o’clock
• Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
• Navy blue rubber strap with folding clasp
• Power reserve of 68 hours
• Stylish and sophisticated design
• High-quality materials and craftsmanship
• Reliable and accurate Swiss-made movement
• Chronograph function for precise timing
• Easy-to-read dial with clear markers and hands
• Comfortable and durable leather strap
• Great value for the price compared to other luxury watches
• Expensive price point
• Relatively large case size may not be suitable for all wrist sizes
• Water resistance rating of only 60 meters may not be sufficient for serious water activities
• Limited color options for the dial and strap
• May not appeal to those who prefer a more minimalist or understated design

Comparable Watches

When it comes to finding comparable watches to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, there are a few brands that come to mind. One such brand is Omega, which offers the Seamaster Planet Ocean Chronograph as a viable alternative. This watch boasts a similar sporty aesthetic and features a chronograph function, as well as a date display and water resistance up to 600 meters.

Another brand that offers comparable watches is TAG Heuer, with their Aquaracer Chronograph being a popular choice. This watch also features a chronograph function and water resistance up to 300 meters, making it a great option for water sports enthusiasts. Additionally, the Aquaracer Chronograph has a sleek and modern design that is sure to turn heads.

Finally, Breitling offers the Superocean Heritage Chronograph as a comparable watch to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph. This watch features a similar nautical-inspired design and boasts water resistance up to 200 meters. It also has a chronograph function and a date display, making it a practical and stylish choice for any occasion.

Ultimately, when comparing watches to the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph, it is important to consider factors such as design, functionality, and water resistance in order to find the best fit for your needs.

Watch Collectors Opinions

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) has received generally positive reviews from watch collectors and reviewers. One of the most notable features of this timepiece is its elegant and sophisticated design, which is reminiscent of classic sailing watches. Many collectors have praised the watch's attention to detail, such as the polished and brushed stainless steel case and the blue dial with contrasting white sub-dials, which give the watch a timeless and elegant look.

Another aspect of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph that has received praise is its impressive functionality. The watch features a chronograph function that is accurate and easy to use, as well as a date display and a flyback function that allows the wearer to reset the chronograph without stopping it first. Additionally, the watch is water-resistant up to 60 meters, making it a practical choice for those who enjoy water sports or spending time on boats.

Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph has been well-received by watch collectors and reviewers alike. Its combination of classic design and modern functionality make it a versatile and stylish timepiece that is sure to appeal to a wide range of collectors. Whether you're a seasoned watch enthusiast or a newcomer to the hobby, this watch is definitely worth considering for your collection.

In conclusion, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Reference: IW390502) is a remarkable timepiece that showcases the brand's commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Its elegant design, exceptional functionality, and reliable performance make it a versatile and stylish choice for watch enthusiasts and individuals who appreciate luxury and prestige.

With its nautical-inspired aesthetics and sporty appeal, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a standout among the esteemed Portugieser collection. Its availability and distribution worldwide make it easily accessible to those seeking a high-quality and prestigious timepiece.

The watch's robust stainless steel case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and precise automatic movement ensure durability, visibility, and accuracy. The clean and legible dial with chronograph subdials and date window adds practicality and functionality to the watch's design.

Although positioned in the higher end of the luxury watch market, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a worthwhile investment for those seeking a timeless and exceptional timepiece. Its enduring style and exceptional performance represent IWC's dedication to creating watches that stand the test of time.

Overall, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph IW390502 is a testament to the brand's commitment to craftsmanship and luxury. Whether you're on land or at sea, this watch is a stylish and reliable companion that is sure to impress.

Q: What sets the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) apart from other sports chronograph watches? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) stands out with its elegant and sophisticated design combined with its robust sports chronograph functionality. Its nautical-inspired elements, such as the bold blue dial, regatta countdown feature, and water resistance, make it a perfect companion for sailing and water activities.

Q: Is the strap of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) interchangeable? Can I switch it to a different style or material? A: Yes, the strap of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) is interchangeable, offering versatility and customization options. You can easily swap the original strap for a different style or material, such as a rubber strap or a fabric NATO strap, allowing you to adapt the watch to various occasions and preferences.

Q: Does the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) feature a flyback chronograph function? A: Absolutely! The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) includes a flyback chronograph function, allowing you to quickly reset and restart the chronograph with a single push of a button. This feature is particularly useful for timing multiple events or laps without having to stop and reset the chronograph each time.

Q: Can the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) be worn for swimming and diving? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) has a water resistance rating of 60 meters (200 feet), making it suitable for recreational swimming and water activities. However, it is not designed for professional diving. Its water resistance ensures the watch’s durability and protection against water-related exposure.

Q: What materials are used in the construction of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502)? A: The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (IW390502) features a stainless steel case that provides durability and a refined appearance. The watch also incorporates a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, protecting the dial from daily wear and tear. These high-quality materials contribute to the watch’s overall quality and longevity.

Review: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph – The perfect summers’ watch?

Ah, it summer-time! The sun is shining, birds are singing and you need a summer wrist-companion. Comfort, sportiness and perhaps something trendy? If one were to screen through the IWC collection, chances are they’d pick the Ingenuier or the versatile Pilot. But would you consider a Portugieser. Here, we bring you a in-depth look at one such example: the 2018 IWC Yacht Club Chronograph. It checks all those “summer-ready” boxes (if there is one), on paper at least . But, how does it stack up?

Review: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

OK, so it is summer all year long in Singapore…all the more the enjoy. IWC announced the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph in July 12, 2018. Here is our hands-on review.

The Case, Dial and Hands

Despite several key differences in stylistic design cues, the Yacht Club Chronograph is still instantly instantly recognisable as being part of the Portugieser collection.

The 43.5mm stainless steel case shares several design traits with the classic Portugieser chronograph. Despite its increased size, the watch still wore comfortably on the author’s wrist.

The watch features a round stainless steel case which measures 43.5mm in diameter. Granted, a rather generous proportion, but one that is not new to the brand. It shares several design traits with the classic chronograph: the case shape, pushers and crown looks identical. However, where the Portugieser family is best suited for dressing up, the Yacht-Club is all for enjoying the water; oceans, boating (and desk diving!). Its appearance is rather sporty, with a maxi-sized case, thick bezel and crown guards. Despite its size, the watch wore really well: it sat comfortably on the author’s (smaller than average) 5.5″ wrist with good all-round weight distribution. Furthermore, the 14.2mm case thickness ensured a pleasant wrist presence without being overbearing.

A healthy blend of polished and brushed surfaces ensures a sporty-elegance flair: flashy without being brash. Also seen here is its case thickness of 14.2mm: a comfortable size while providing sufficient wrist presence.

Finishing is a visual and physical treat: the case has a healthy blend of meticulously polished and brushed surfaces, ensuring a bright and seductive appearance. A sporty-elegance flair perhaps; flashy without being brash. Finally, the corners and sides features smooth, sensual curves with no ‘rough edges’.

The sunburst blue dial is rather handsome, sporting contrasting white sub dials. We enjoyed its overall cleanliness and sleek appearance.

The dial is the highlight of this watch, sporting a striking sunburst blue with contrasting white sub dials. The top and bottom counters records hours/minutes-elapsed and running-seconds respectively. They don a circular pattern and sits slightly recessed into the dial for better depth. Its printing is somewhat busy with two scales, but we had no issues with readability. In fact, the entire dial features a rather unadulterated and sleek appearance: no ‘handy reminders’ of specifications or certifications – a detail that is greatly appreciated. Additionally, we enjoyed the subtle, charming touches such as the distinct red chronograph seconds hand. Overall a well balanced dial with effective use of negative space.

A rather striking dial, but not one without minor complaints. One of them is the truncated number ’11’. Another is the upside-down markings on the sub dials.

To top it off, the sporty mien is accompanied by polished  appliqué  arabic numerals – one that adds an elegant flair to the watch. Extending outwards are 13 hour-markers. And complimenting them is a set of  feuille  (leaf)-shaped minute and hour hands. Both the hour-markers and hands have been filled with SuperLuminova which ensures good legibility in all situations.

There were several minor complaints however. Some may prefer that the top sub dial be made slightly smaller to avoid cutting off the ’11’ numeral (think Portugieser Chronograph Classic). Another is the ‘flipped’ markings on the counters. That said, these minor niggles do not detract much from its overall looks.

Turning the watch over, we find a see-through sapphire case back. The watch comes on an accompanying blue rubber strap with metal keeper. One interesting note about the rubber is the motif underneath which prevents slippage while on the wrist.

The Movement: IWC 89361

Inside the Yacht-Club houses the IWC 89361 calibre – an in-house manufactured chronograph movement. It boasts an impressive 60-hours power reserve and beats at 28,800 bph (4Hz). Furthermore, this self-winding movement features a flyback function and date complication. Finishing is well executed entirely with haute horology decorations such as Côtes  de  Genève  (Geneva Stripes) and perlage (circular graining).

The in-house IWC 89361 calibre is a flyback chronograph boasting a 60-hours power reserve. Finishing appears to be done to a high engineering standard. Nonetheless, an obvious choice for movement.

The chronograph pushers feels pronounced upon activation and winding was smooth with good tactile feedback. This movement can be found across IWC’s portfolio of chronograph watches as well as other iterations of the Yacht-Club, thus its choice appears to be a no-brainer.

Competitive Landscape

The IWC Portugieser Yacht-Club Chronograph “Summer Edition” has a recommended retail price of S$17,900. It’s priced appropriately, in-line with other sporty and versatile chronographs . If one is looking for a summers’ timepiece, the choices are endless. Here, we bring you a non-exhaustive list of timepieces which are as competent of transitioning seamlessly from ocean jaunts to cocktail parties.

Summer-ready: the Yacht Club has an appearance that is sporty yet trendy.

We kick things off with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph . When it comes to luxury sports watches, the Royal Oak is the undisputed industry icon. The iconic octagonal case was conceived by none other than Gerald Genta himself. The current iteration is fitted on a rubber straps and are available in a slew of funky colour variations. Its not just all looks without brawn, as the watch is rated to a depth of 300 meters. Highly recognisable (and desirable) on land yet able to perform out at sea – a perfect summer’s timepiece indeed. The ROO Diver Chronograph is priced at S$31,900 .

Rolex Yachtmaster II ( ref. 116680 ) : a watch considered by many Rolex enthusiasts to be the most unapologetic (some call sacrilege) of the brands’ conservative stable. Ostentatious is an understatement as its 44mm case with shiny  ceramic bezel and polished center links is the opposite of subtility. Yet, it remains as a technical masterpiece, housing one of Rolex’s most complicated calibres: a flyback regatta timer with memory. Admittedly not very useful for the ordinary folks, but as a sporty watch, it is rather capable with good legibility and wrist presence. Also makes for an excellent summer statement-timepiece. (Fun fact: It is the largest commercially-available Rolex watch alongside the Deepsea .) The Yachtmaster II has a recommended retail price of S$25,120 .

The Rolex Daytona ( ref. 116500LN )  – perhaps the most ‘”exclusive” watch on this list. It’s sized at 40mm and powered by the calibre 4130 in-house column wheel movement. An excellent choice all year round. The Daytona is priced at S$16,660 .

Another option is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A – the 179-years old maison’s sportiest line. Launched during Basel 2018, it’s the first Aquanaut to sport an in-house chronograph movement. Its case is sized at a contemporary 42.2mm and has a thickness of 11.9mm. The watch is delivered with two abrasion and UV-resistant composite straps: a black which is standard-issue and a rather un-Patek bright orange. Still, its price is  very -Patek at SGD57,700 .

A mid-range piece is the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue. It’s a rather cool-looking chronograph, with a refreshing white dial and striking blue-orange accents. Powering it is a Tudor-modified ETA 2892 movement which delivers a 42-hours power reserve. The Heritage Chrono Blue retails for S$5,880 .

For the budget conscious, we propose the Seiko Prospex Turtle SRPC91 “Save The Ocean”. Robust build, in-house movement and a handsome blue waves motif dial. It offers an incredible quality-to-price ratio, if there is one. Can you go ever wrong? The Turtle retails at  €450 .

There’s much to like about the 2018 IWC Portugieser Yacht-Club. The contrasting blue dial and white sub dials is visually clean and appealing. Its design draws heavy inspiration from the classic Portugieser Chronograph and is rather aesthetically pleasing. The chronograph and date complications serves a functional purpose. Finally, the accompanied blue rubber strap is comfortable and completes the “summer package” look.

An area to nitpick would be the finer attention-to-details. In addition, its upsized case might not sit well with some, though as mentioned, it is comfortable on the author’s wrist. Nonetheless, the Yacht-Club is a very handsome piece which (almost) manages to be the perfect summers’ wrist-companion.

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Good review. I like the look of this watch, but my experience with IWC after sales (not only in Singapore) has been quite disappointing.

I don’t think a “summer” watch should be anything less than 10ATM water resistant. It is 2018 and it should easily be able to withstand a dip in a pool, lake or ocean

Could have added a changeable strap to it.. could be a rubber one but a little more contrast / jazzy types…

WATCH REVIEW:

The blue hour: a hands-on review of the iwc portugieser chronograph edition “150 years”.

At the beginning of last year, IWC introduced a 150-year anniversary edition of its Portugieser Chronograph as a limited-edition model alongside the original Portugieser Chronograph, which debuted in 1998. The most significant difference between the two is the movement: the unlimited version has a modified ETA Valjoux 7750, while the anniversary model is animated by the new manufacture caliber from the 69000 series. The newcomer’s case has been given a sapphire back and its dial boasts lacquered numerals; the standard model has applied numerals. The two watches are very similar in all other aspects, including their dimensions and proportions.

The Portugieser Chronograph has enjoyed strong popularity for many years and is one of IWC’s bestselling models. No one could have possibly predicted this success when the Portugieser’s history began in 1939. The story starts with two Portuguese businessmen who told IWC they were looking for a large wristwatch that could keep time with the accuracy of a ship’s chronometer. IWC responded by filling a 41.5-mm-diameter steel case with Caliber 74H4, which was originally used in pocketwatches and is more than 38 mm in diameter.

This hand-wound wristwatch was given a neatly designed dial with a railway-style minutes circle, Arabic numerals and a subdial for the seconds at 6 o’clock. In an era when gents preferred to wear small and elegant wristwatches, the Portugieser must have looked like a gigantic measuring instrument strapped to its wearer’s wrist. The first models were manufactured in rather small numbers: after making only a few hundred specimens, IWC discontinued production of the Portugieser in 1958.

Success finally came more than three decades later, in 1993. That’s when IWC built a limited edition Portugieser, which again encased a pocketwatch caliber. Now the time was ripe for this elegantly simple watch. And IWC’s clientele was enthusiastic. The Schaffhausen-based brand followed suit in 1998 with the Portugieser Chronograph, which is the direct ancestor of the watch we tested. Large watches were gradually coming into fashion in the late 1990s. IWC hadn’t debuted a manufacture caliber in many years, but this situation changed in 2000, when the brand decided to encase its newly created manufacture movement inside the Portugieser. Automatic Caliber 5000 ticked inside the Portugieser Automatic, which was released in a limited edition of 2,000 pieces. The caliber amassed a seven-day power reserve and showed the current status of its “fuel tank” on an indicator at 3 o’clock, opposite a subdial for the seconds at 9.

When this caliber debuted at the turn of the millennium, its diameter of 38.2 mm made it the world’s largest automatic movement. This was a courageous step because this caliber would never have fit into a smaller watch. If the trend for large wristwatches had reversed itself, the big movement would have been useless. But history took a different turn, and the Portugieser was a big success.

With a diameter of 41 mm, the Portugieser Chronograph is nonetheless 1 mm smaller than the Portugieser Automatic. This size was formerly considered to be large, but nowadays 41 mm is a normal size for a wristwatch with a built-in stop-seconds function.

The ETA Valjoux 7750 has served since 1998 as the basic movement for the unlimited edition of the Portugieser Chronograph. This caliber was designed to display the continually running seconds on a subdial at 9 o’clock. To achieve the desired arrangement with the small seconds at the dial’s South Pole, the elapsed-hours counter had to be removed and replaced by a mechanism for the continually running seconds. Such modifications in movements have long been standard procedure at IWC.

New Movement

Now, with Caliber 69355, IWC’s own new chronograph movement takes up residence inside the anniversary edition of the Portugieser. This movement is IWC’s second manufacture chronograph caliber, which raises a question: Why did IWC design and build a second chronograph movement with a self-winding mechanism? The surprising answer: So the brand could sell less costly chronographs with a manufacture movement. Thus far, IWC had offered chronographs starting around $5,300 that encased the ETA Valjoux 7750. ETA supplies this movement to IWC, which renames it Caliber 79xxx. Watches equipped with IWC’s own chronograph Caliber 89xxx cost around $11,100. The model featured in this test is priced between the two at $7,150. This is comparable to the prices charged by Breitling, Omega and Zenith for their manufacture chronographs.

What will you have to do without if you choose the new manufacture movement rather than its more costly predecessor? In terms of function, you’ll have to settle for a shorter power reserve of 46 rather than 68 hours. You’ll also have to forgo a flyback function, which lets you start a new elapsed-time measurement while a previous measurement is underway. And you’ll have to live without a combined counter for the elapsed hours and minutes so you can read the elapsed time intuitively. From a technical standpoint, the new movement’s construction is somewhat simpler: its rate can be finely adjusted by shifting the position of a regulator lever rather than by turning eccentric weight screws along the rim of the balance. Both calibers are equipped with an elegant column wheel to control the chronograph’s functions, a rocking pinion to couple the chronograph mechanism with the gear train and IWC’s characteristic pawl-winding system, which is based on a device invented by IWC’s former technical director Albert Pellaton, who developed the pawl-winding system for Caliber 85 in the early 1950s.

Visible Differences

The differences in the embellishments aren’t great either. The 89xxx reveals more of the mechanism and boasts decorative finishing on the wheels and gold inlays in the engravings. The new 69xxx likewise has a skeletonized rotor, bridges adorned with sunburst patterns and screws with polished heads. The anniversary edition we tested has the golden “150 Years” logo on its rotor. But even a cursory glance shows that some parts of the movement have been left unembellished. The new movement is also somewhat taller than its predecessor, which makes its dimensions nearly identical to those of the Valjoux 7750.

How accurate is the new movement’s rate when measured on the timing machine? Quite accurate indeed: we found 2 to 6 seconds of gain per day in the various positions and a greatest deviation among the positions of 4 seconds. When the chronograph mechanism is running, the balance’s amplitude decreases somewhat but remains within normal limits, and there’s hardly any change in the accuracy of the rate.

We also have good news about the craftsmanship of the stainless-steel case. Its satin-finished sides contrast attractively with the polished mushroom-shaped push-pieces and with the polished bezel, which widens upward. But the primary focus of the Portugieser’s styling is its dial. The bezel is narrow so nothing can distract from the elementary function of displaying the time. Sleek simplicity is the ideal solution here.

Straightforwardness also prevails on the push-pieces, which have large heads to facilitate their operation. This makes it easy to start and stop the chronograph. Triggering the zero-return button also requires little force, although this push-piece has no perceptible pressure point.

The case’s proportions promise a high degree of wearing comfort. And the watch fits with comfortable closeness around the wrist. Immaculate and very high-quality craftsmanship also distinguishes the alligator-leather strap, which is unfortunately a bit stiff at first.

The vertical arrangement of the subdials gives the Portugieser Chronograph a classical and almost aloof aura. The dial’s blue color softens this austerity somewhat and gives the watch a sportier look. IWC also offers the anniversary model we tested with a white dial.

A fingertip’s pressure on the start button triggers the elapsed-seconds hand to begin sweeping around the dial. It advances in eight increments per second because the balance in the chronograph movement is paced at 28,800 vibrations per hour. These eighth-of-a-second steps correspond to the four strokes that subdivide each second on the scale along the ange. The rather large counters not only make it easier to read the data, but also serve as the dial’s stylistic focal points. IWC opted not to include a date display and has kept the lettering on the dial simple. Yet the dial’s surface doesn’t seem empty but makes a well-proportioned impression.

Timeless Design

A beautiful thing about the Portugieser: it offers understatement without being inconspicuous. It radiates the same timeless aura that distinguishes a tailor-made suit or a pair of handmade shoes. With this watch on your wrist, you’re appropriately dressed in every situation. And the large size and lucid styling of the subdials and numerals make the Portugieser easy to read. But this holds true only when a light source is available. With a noteworthy abscense of luminous material on the dial, this model leaves its wearer uninformed in the dark.

The generous subdials cause a stylistic conflict at the 6 and the 12. IWC solves this problem by truncating these numerals, a decision that shows the self-confidence of the brand’s designers. If these two numerals had been eliminated, their absence would have left unattractive gaps at two prominent positions on the dial. The only other option would have been to use a larger caliber with counters positioned so far from the dial’s center that the subdials would have completely covered the numerals, which would have detracted from the dial’s legibility.

All in all, the Portugieser Chronograph makes a very harmonious impression. The good design is undoubtedly why this model is so popular. The cost-benefit ratio and the absence of a manufacture caliber previously argued against this model. But both arguments have been satisfied now. Although it encases the brand’s own caliber, the anniversary edition of the Portugieser costs $7,150. And the case of this jubilee edition also has a sapphire back, through which you can admire IWC’s own mechanical timekeeper. Now you get more for your money and, above all, a manufacture movement, which ordinarily costs more at IWC. For example, the Portugieser Automatic with a seven-day movement costs $12,700.

The Portugieser Chronograph has always been handsome. Now it’s even more convincing, thanks to the combination of a manufacture movement and a relatively moderate price. What a great way to enjoy the blue hour!

IWC Portugieser Chronograph Edition “150 Years”

Manufacturer:  IWC Schaffausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8200 Schaffausen, Switzerland

Reference number:  IW371601

Functions:  Hour, minute, small seconds, chronograph with counter for 30 elapsed minutes

Movement: Self-winding manufacture Caliber 69355, 28,800 vph, 27 jewels, stop-seconds function, column wheel, fine adjustment via regulator and eccentric screw, 46-hour power reserve, diameter = 30 mm, height = 7.9 mm

Case: Stainless steel, convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire caseback, water resistant to 30 m

Strap and clasp: Alligator leather with stainless-steel folding clasp

Rate results:

Deviation in seconds per 24 hours(With chronograph switched off/on)

Dial up: +6 / +5 Dial down: +4 / +2 Crown up: +4 / +1 Crown down: +2 / +5 Crown left: +5 / +4 Crown right: +2 / +2 Greatest deviation: 4 / 4 Average deviation: +3.8 / +3.2

Average amplitude: Flat positions: 300°/ 269° Hanging positions: 279°/ 249°

Dimensions:  Diameter = 41 mm, height = 13.1 mm, weight = 92 g

Variations: With white dial, limited to 2,000 pieces (IW371602, $7,150); with rose-gold case and white dial, limited to 250 pieces (IW371603, $17,300)

Limited edition of 2,000

Price: $7,150

All photos by Olaf Köster

A very beautiful watch with a rich history. It stands out, it can’t be ignored. It’s very upmarket, a real collector’s item.

I understand it. What I don t understand is why IWC designers think it s ok just to chop off the numerals on the watch dial. Great review! I tried one on this weekend at a local retailer, and yes, this is what I want. But it’s an awful lot of money for me, even with a good job. I’ve noticed that the new model has been released with the in-house movement and an extra ?500 here in the uk. Same power reserve though I think, but with display back. Do you think it’s worth spending the extra to get the new movement?

I was always put off by this watch because of the heavy-wobble / vibration. Loved the design. Does the new movement get rid of this? If so, I may at last be able to buy one. Thanks. Great read

I have the white dial version and love it. It wears large due to the lack of bezel, but it’s elegant design stops it from being loud. The lacquered dial is booth rich and deep under bright light, with a crisp flatness when it is darker or diffuse.

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Gentleman Sailor: Testing the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

11 Jun 2022

Watchtime Usa

Contributing Writer

The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a watch you can wear with confidence anywhere at the marina. A first glance shows that the third generation of the sportiest Portugieser model, our test watch, is designed to be both a nautical timepiece and a luxury accessory. The first impression of this IWC diving watch is confirmed upon closer inspection of its polished and satin-finish case, sunburst blue dial and brightly polished hands. Every component is flawlessly finished and worthy to be part of the supremely elegant Portugieser collection. 

For the first time in its 10-year history, this Portugieser Yacht Club boasts a steel bracelet rather than a rubber or leather strap — a sturdy but elegant IWC steel bracelet with brushed outer links and polished inner links. Shortening the bracelet involves simply pressing a button on the back of each row of sturdy links to remove it. Unlike simpler bracelet designs, using screws or hammering is not needed. 

Inside the safety folding clasp of this IWC  diving watch, there is also a quick extension piece that quickly and easily lengthens the bracelet by up to 7 mm.  Pressing the polished ‘IWC’ button on the outer bar of the clasp extends the bracelet in seven increments — without ever removing the watch from your wrist. Two safety buttons round out the sturdy and well-designed folding clasp. 

Detailed Modifications 

In addition to the bracelet, the dial has also been updated. The central chronograph hand is now steel-grey instead of red, and the date window has been shifted from the 3 o’clock position to the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Both changes enhance the elegance of the Yacht Club and were well received by our editorial staff. 

The elegant impression is diminished, however, by the enlargement of the already considerable stainless-steel case from 43.5 mm to 44.6 mm.  Our editorial staff admitted that no one among them had a wrist to match its substantial dimensions. 

Even so, the large, heavy watch is quite comfortable to wear thanks to ergonomically shaped sloping lugs and a supple steel bracelet. Unfortunately, the flexibility and adjustability of the IWC’s bracelet results in relatively large gaps  between the links, which can catch and pull hair. 

Proven Technology 

Components taken from earlier generations of the Yacht Club include the sturdy and powerful in-house movement, Calibre 89361, with many excellent features like a 68-hour power reserve; a traditional column-wheel control mechanism; the brand’s own exceptionally efficient Pellaton dual-pawl winding system; a free-sprung, temperature-resistant Glucydur balance wheel; and a flyback function for the direct restarting of the running chronograph. It can also show off beautiful decorative finishes, gold-enhanced engraving and a gold IWC medallion on the skeletonised oscillating rotor.

Another feature of the in-house movement of  IWC diving watch  is the combined 12-hour and 60-minute counter in the upper half of the dial, which is intended to show elapsed time intuitively, as on a clock. The combined counter is too small for everyday use, however, and its markings are too fine to read elapsed time to the minute quickly and easily. The chronograph seconds track around the dial is also extremely fine, and the central chronograph seconds hand is insufficiently long to fully reach it. In sum, it’s a mixed bag, with clearly legible time and date, and elapsed time that is much more difficult to read. 

Accurate Rate 

Our rate test revealed more about the Swiss movement. The electronic timing machine showed a negligibly small daily rate of +0.8 seconds, a maximum deviation between the positions of only 4 seconds and almost the same values when the chronograph is engaged. A two-week wearing test confirmed the small daily deviation with values between zero and +2 seconds — making our test watch a reliable partner for everyday use. 

In addition to the movement, another feature of the Yacht Club that hasn’t changed arouses mixed feelings — the pressure resistance of six bar that corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 60 metres. Although this may sound like a lot at first, the water resistance as it is tested under laboratory conditions is rather low for a nautical luxury sports watch linked to the world of sailing. Coming in contact with spray or waves means a watch should be resistant to at least 10 bar or 100 metres to ensure a certain degree of security in a variety of different environments. And even though this still isn’t a lot, it is the current standard for any water sports watch not explicitly designed for  diving . 

Advice for boat owners is simply this: It’s better to wear this watch in the evening, below deck, or to dinner at the marina, and either take it easy onboard during the day or rely on a sports watch that is clearly defined as such. The new  Portugieser  Yacht Club Chronograph is well equipped for normal everyday wear and light sports activities — and is the perfect gentleman sailor for social events on or below deck.

This story first appeared in WatchTime US, and was then carried in WatchTime India. To subscribe, click  here .

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Hands-On Debut: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Collection Redesigned For 2020

The IWC Yacht Club was reintroduced 10 years ago now when it was revived as part of the Portugieser family. Now, as part of Watches & Wonders 2020 (online edition), IWC has given the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph its third facelift and has finally introduced a bracelet option for this “nautical sports watch” family. Of the three new models being introduced, two are done in steel, while the third is a two-tone steel and rose gold version.

With the new Yacht Club Chronograph collection, IWC is doing what great brands always do, and that is refine and iterate their products. The new case is actually slightly bigger than the existing model (which measures 43.5mm-wide and 14.1mm-thick) at 44.6mm-wide and 14.4mm-thick. However, the new filigreed bezel and flat casing ring that’s shared with the new Moon & Tide edition allows for a sleeker and more streamlined look, overall. Water resistance is the same, at 60M. Remember, it’s “yacht,” not “dive.”

The dial layout is a little different, with the IWC logo moved from 9 o’clock to 3 o’clock, the “Yacht Club” text moved from the 6 o’clock subdial to 9 o’clock, and the date window moved from 3 o’clock to now being housed within the 6 o’clock subdial. Notably, the date window now matches the either blue or silver dial of the watch. On the blue version of the outgoing model, the date window was done in white.

The chronograph hand is no longer red, rather it matches the hour and minute hands (which are the only to be lumed in the Portugieser family), done in rhodium, gold, or blued steel (the latter of which looks fantastic, in my opinion, as do the similarly blued hour markers against the silver dial). There is some red left, with the hacking seconds hand at the 6 o’clock subdial now adding that jolt of color. You’ll also notice the guilloché pattern on the running seconds subdial. The hour/minute counter at 12 o’clock remains largely the same.

As for the bracelets, these are quite similar to those found on the Ingenieur, though they are 22mm-wide, as opposed to 20mm. With alternating brushed end links and polished center links, IWC has finally successfully offered the Yacht Club on a bracelet. As much as I like a rubber strap, it always perplexed me why a bracelet wasn’t an option.

Through the exhibition caseback, you can see the unchanged 89361 calibre. This automatic flyback chronograph movement operates. at 28,800 vph and has a 68-hour power reserve.

Sportier and thoroughly more refined than the second-generation Portugieser Yacht Club, these three new watches are a welcome breath of fresh air to the collection. My personal favorite is the steel with silver dial, though the two-tone brings its own unique charm to the equation. It does come at a hefty premium over the other two, however. The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronographs in steel with blue dial (Ref. IW390701) and silver dial (Ref. IW390702) are each priced at $13,000 USD . The two-tone steel and gold IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. IW390703) is priced at $20,000 USD . You can learn more at iwc.com .

Review IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

IWC Schaffhausen  and  Orlebar Brown have announced back in July their collaboration piece, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” . Due to the travelling and general restriction imposed by the infamous COVID19, I have seen the watch in the metal just at the end of August. Even if the summer is over, the “Orlebar Brown” Portugieser Yacht Club deserves to be presented – a lovely addition in the Portugieser Collection and a nice collaboration. 

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

I loved this watch from its digital launch. So I was very happy to finally get to see it at IWC Geneva Boutique during the Geneva Watch Days. The watch looks much better in the metal than the pictures reveal so if you are interested, I recommend to see it live.

Portugieser at heart, Portugieser in the look

The Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is one of those more special Portugieser – while keeping the known general aspects, some details are personalised by the Orlebar Brown collaboration.

The watch comes in a large 44.6 mm stainless steel case. Its dimensions are not obvious, the Edition “Orlebar Brown” wearing, as all the Portugieser large pieces, smaller than expected.

The case is designed to fit comfortable a large variety of wrist sizes. The caseband integrates the inward bent lugs. Even the brushing is extended on the lugs’ sides for a homogenous look. The rest of the surfaces are mirror polished. The strap integration is realised without any empty spaces.

The IWC Probus Scafusia decorated crown is surrounded by a raised polished crown protection. The protection bump also integrates the chrono pushers. The pushers have a wide but relatively thin topper. The entire appearance is nicely designed. The case details are quite handsome.

One of the eye-catching details of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is the strap. The blue rubber strap with textile inlay looks charming and offer very comfortable wear. It contributes to the smaller wear of the elegantly-proportioned case.

The buckle bears the sign of the IWC and Orlebar Brown collaboration deeply engraved in the metal. This buckle offers a secure sit on the wrist and it is a nice combination for the watch and strap.

A dial inspired by sea and sailing

The IWC Yacht Club “Orlebar Brown” has a gorgeous dial combining bleu-marine, white and red. With a vertical layout, the watch has a handsome face. The 12 o’clock areal presents the 60 minutes and 12 hours chronograph totaliser. The stepped down sub-dial presents two registers: the minutes counter on a circular pattern with white and red printing; the hours’ counter is central with printing on a flat surface. The elements are well delimited and offer good legibility. The chronograph’s seconds indication is realised with a central red hand that runs against the white inner bezel with blue printing.

The time display uses central hours and minutes elongated leaf hands with skeletonised centre and SuperLuminova fill. The hours’ indexes have double representation: applied metal Arabic numeral with the Portugieser known font and short baton indexes with SuperLuminova fill – another rather familiar detail. The minutes use a white printed railtrack that can also serve as an indication for the central chrono hands for an ease in legibility.

The lower side of the dial, at 6 o’clock, presents the running seconds. The subdial is subtly recessed and it is decorated with a circular pattern in the same granulation as the one met at the chrono’s minutes’ counter. The indexes and numerals are printed in blue. The date is printed in black on a white background and can be easily observed via a windowed aperture, as part of the small seconds’ dial.

As additional decoration, the dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” bears the name of the brand at 3 o’clock and the “Yacht Club” name at 9 o’clock. The Swiss-made marking is displayed at 6 o’clock as a break in the minute’s railtrack.

Calibre 89361 – a classic IWC movement

The Orlebar Brown Yacht Club is powered by the impressive Calibre 89361. This automatic movement powered by a 4Hz balance wheel offers an impressive set of features like the flyback chrono, hacking seconds, quick set date and a long power reserve of 68 hours due to its double barrel design and bi-directional winding.

Calibre 89361 is used in several IWC families for chronographs: Ingenieur, Da Vinci, Aquatimer , Pilot and, of course, Portugieser . The movement uses a double-clutch design with a vertical clutch for coupling and a column wheel for actuation. The combination of the two decreases the wear of the gear train with an increase of reliability over time. The system also helps the overall chronometry by decreasing the loss of amplitude by the chrono’s activation. Looking at the winding mechanism, I was wondering if this is the four pawl system patented by Jean-Francois Mojon and Norberto Perucchi fifteen years ago?

The movement does not particularly excel on the finishes side. Mostly industrial but fine and well-executed, the adornment of the Calibre 89361 deserves a look through the exhibition case back.

It has the looks, it has the brains

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is a beautiful watch with a pleasant layout and nice colour scheme. The look can be overshadowed only by the technically impressive in-house movement, the Calibre 89361. The back offers a compelling view too.

Definitively, it has a sporty appearance. Regardless if worn as a daily driver, at the beach or by sailing, the watch offers comfortable wear even for smaller wrists.  I have an 18cm/7inch wrist and I usually tend to stop at a diametre of 41-42mm. But I didn’t realise how big the watch actually is. So a strong point for a small wrist to give it a chance.

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” Technical Specifications and Price

REF. IW390704

• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Flyback function
• Date display
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Small hacking seconds
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève, perlage
• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6  mm
• Height 14.3  mm
• Screw-in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water-resistance 6 bar
• Blue dial with luminescence
• Blue rubber strap with textile inlay
• Strap width 22 mm
• 11.800 € , Price includes taxes and shipping.

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Owner review: IWC Portugieser Chronograph

| Wrist Size: 7.5 inch

In the early 1930’s, two Portuguese merchants commissioned from IWC a large wristwatch with pocket watch precision. Using an existing pocket watch movement, the brand released a time-only watch in 1939. The Portuguese line was reborn in the 1990’s with the Rattrapante split-second chronograph released in 1995 and standard chronograph in 1998. Updated to model 3716 and renamed “Portugieser” in 2018 for the brand’s 150th anniversary, this was a significant update to the IWC Portugieser Chronograph.

Leaving nearly all its beloved external features unchanged the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph did come with a must-have feature found in modern high-end watches, an in-house movement. Designed and produced by the Richemont-owned ValFleurier movement manufacturer, the movement beats at 4 Hz, features a column wheel design and 46-hour power reserve. The new movement allows for another great enhancement, a sapphire case back.

With a case size that bordered on large for 1998, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph 41 mm diameter is now considered fairly moderate. The 13 mm height similarly so. These dimensions, along with a nearly bezel-less dial, give the watch a real presence, but nothing overpowering. The dial layout is classic, with a centrally mounted chronograph seconds counter, 12:00 minutes counter, and running seconds at 6:00. Applied hour markers give the dial depth and a contemporary flair.

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph is popular. There are at least 10 different variations available including white, blue, red, green, black, and (new for 2022) panda dials, stainless steel and rose gold cases, leather and rubber straps, and even a stainless steel bracelet! I challenge anyone to browse the IWC catalogue and not find a color that suits them. Mine is the beautiful, blue-dialed version (IW371606), and I know owners of the black (371609) and a perennial favorite, the white-dial and blue indices versions (371605).

The moderate case size and stylish color choices make the IWC Portugieser Chronograph, in my opinion, the perfect casual watch. It’s a watch that wears equally well out for a nice dinner, a Saturday cruise aboard a boat, or a cool winter evening by a warm fireplace. The included black crocodile strap provides a dressier look, while the IWC “Summer Strap” sailcloth collection from 2019 is perfect for more casual wear. The 20 mm lug width supports a plethora of other 3rd party strap options. The watch fits under all but the smallest shirt cuffs, and I’ve seen this watch on a few fashion-forward ladies’ wrists as well.

There are a few minor nit-picks that I have with the new Portugieser. First, the lack of lume renders the watch useless in low light situations, especially on darker-dialed versions. Second, the latest version comes on a double-deployant or “butterfly” clasp, which I find less convenient compared to single-deployant clasps of previous versions. The reason behind the clasp change was to support a wider range of straps, including IWC’s cellulose-based TimberTex straps. Other than that, the execution is flawless.

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph is an entry point into one of their finest collections. The 7-day Automatic version is similarly beautiful, with a huge movement visible behind its sapphire case back. And the line moves up from there to annual calendars, perpetual calendars tourbillons, minute repeaters, and grand complications. In fact, one could make a stellar 3-watch collection from within the Portugieser line all by itself!

The IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 is the modern interpretation of a classic timepiece. Born out of necessity in the 1930’s, IWC has crafted an imminently wearable, versatile, beautiful watch that should live to see its own 100th birthday in the not-too-distant future.

iwc portugieser chronograph 371606

• In-house, column wheel chronograph movement.
• Classic design available in a variety of metals and dial colors.
• Wear it with a suit or jeans – perfect for nearly every occasion.
• No lume, difficult to read in some lighting situations.
• Double-deployant “butterfly” clasp can be fiddly.
• May induce lustful desire for more expensive Portugieser models.

Review Breakdown

• Wearability 0%

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Watch nerd, technologist, and lover of hamburgers in Houston, TX. ⌚️?

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IWC Portuguese Chronograph Review

A timeless classic dress watch: iwc portuguese chronograph.

The IWC Portuguese Chronograph is a wrist watch that has lots of beauty and a rich history. This iconic & grail timepiece has been a major cornerstone for the IWC lineup and has maintained its popularity over the years. In our article, IWC Portuguese Chronograph Review, we’ll cover features/functions, movement, dial, specs, and how much the IWC Portuguese Chronograph costs / it’s value proposition.

Check out our in-depth New IWC Portugieser Chronograph review on Youtube.

IWC Portuguese Chronograph Movement

For years the IWC Portuguese Chronograph was fitted with a Valjoux 7750 movement until recently. The Valjoux 7750 provided a sturdy 42 hour power reserve, 30 minute chronograph, and a reliable time keeping abilities. Eventually the decision was made to upgrade IWC Portuguese Chronograph movement and bring it in-house. The new in-house calibre 69355 takes shape from a classic column wheel design that is engineered to the highest standards of IWC watchmaking. To celebrate the new IWC Portuguese Chronograph 40 movement, a see through case back was selected to showcase its beauty and design.

IWC Portuguese Dial

The IWC Portuguese Chronograph dial is instantly recognizable and has been for decades. The modern version still holds true to the original debut of the IWC Portuguese Chronograph. The simple yet elegant dial of the entire IWC Portuguese series has lead to it’s timeless luster. The IWC Portuguese dial provides a versatile design that can work in any formal attire and at the same time looking sharp in just a t-shirt.

IWC Portuguese Chronograph Features / Functions

Who says an elegant dress watch can’t have features and functions? Our IWC Portuguese Chronograph review has opened our eyes to how incredible this watch and the rest of the IWC Portuguese lineup is. Normally I wouldn’t consider a chronograph on a dress watch but leave it to IWC to make it work. Along with the 30 minute chronograph IWC has provided us with an in-house calibre, transparent case back, sapphire crystal, gold indices & hands, premium leather strap, and a screw down crown.

The New IWC Portuguese Chronograph 40

One question that I think most of us asked ourselves when it came to putting together a value proposition for the IWC Portuguese Chronograph review is, “Does the watch command the price being charged”. You can argue that once a company is charging north of $7,000 for a single watch, an in-house calibre should be involved. I’m personally one of those people myself and that is why I am so excited to learn that a watch that I think was close to perfect now checks all the boxes.

We’re happy to link to the launch video IWC released when they introduced their new IWC Portuguese collection. After watching this, we think that you’ll really gain a deeper appreciation for the collection and notice all the thought and collaboration that went into the IWC Portuguese collection.

How Much Does The IWC Portuguese Chronograph Cost

The IWC Portuguese Chronograph starts out at $8,715 for stainless steel models and can go up to $19,000 for precious metal models.

After learning how much does the IWC Portuguese Chronograph cost and if you’re wanting a better price, the previous versions that do not house the 69355 calibre movement can be picked up on at a discount new and used.

IWC Portuguese Chronograph Specs

Final Thoughts

To not give the IWC Portuguese Chronograph the respect it deserves would just be insane. There is a reason why this watch has stood the test of time and maintained its popularity over the years. The simple and yet elegant design of the IWC Portuguese Chronograph is what gives it its lore and its ranking among dress watch favorites. We’ve greatly enjoyed writing our IWC Portuguese Chronograph review. If you haven’t yet visited a local AD to see the watch in person, we suggest you take the time. Especially since now its upgraded movement has put it on par with competing watches in the $7,500-$10,000 price range.

• chronograph , dress watches , IWC

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Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition 'Orlebar Brown'

Just in time for summer, a new sport watch and resort wear collection..

This year at IWC has been all about the refreshed Portugieser line of nautically inspired timepieces, which harken back to an important wristwatch made by IWC that used a large and accurate pocket watch movement. Today, we have a special edition of the sporty Portugieser Yacht Club to mark a new partnership between IWC and the British swimwear brand Orlebar Brown. 

Orlebar Brown was founded after its Creative Director, Adam Brown, detected a disconnect between what typically well-dressed guys wear socializing and what they tend to put on when they go to the pool. While changing from a pair of swim trunks into something more appropriate for lunch, a light went on, and Brown realized he wanted a pair that would look great away from the pool too. When you look at a pair of Orlebar Brown swim trunks, you can see how traditional tailoring influences their construction. Side tab adjusters and a four-part shaped waistband keep things refined, fresh, and stylish when heading from an afternoon at the pool out to drinks with friends. Though the company's swimwear collections are regularly refreshed on a seasonal basis, each suit comes with a five-year guarantee. They're swim trunks made to look great and to last.

Earlier this year, IWC dropped three main line models as part of its 2020 focus on the Portugieser line. Aesthetically, the new special edition version bridges the designs of the blue dial and silver-plated dial variations that we covered back in April. It does this while dispensing with the stainless steel bracelet in favor of the rubber strap with co-branded buckle seen above.

A white toweling blazer with blue piping from the new Orlebar Brown x IWC capsule collection.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" is being launched right in time for summer, alongside Orlebar Brown's new nine-piece resort wear capsule collection, designed with IWC. With its nautically influenced design, rubber strap, and custom co-branded buckle (which is fashioned after an Orlebar Brown side tab adjuster), this feels like a fun twist on a perennial favorite from the IWC Portugieser collection.

One of my favorite things about IWC's cal. 89361 flyback chronograph movement is its impact on the display. It allows for a clean and symmetrical two sub-dial layout while integrating chronograph hours and minutes into the upper sub-dial and reserving the lower one for a small hacking seconds. Usually, a chronograph would need three subdials to convey this much information. 

The Portugieser is, of course, a watch whose formidable size is one of its most distinctive design elements, and this watch is certainly a Portugieser in that regard. At nearly 45mm in diameter, it could be a bit overwhelming to those who only wear watches on the smaller end of the spectrum. Still, it has a very classic design, and the fact that it's a sporty chronograph on a rubber strap makes me think that this could be a pretty killer watch for these current warmer months.

Brand: IWC Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition "Orlebar Brown" Reference Number: IW390704

Diameter: 44.6mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: Stainless steel Dial Color: Blue and silver-plated dial Indexes: Rhodium-plated appliques Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 6 bar Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber strap with textile inlay

Caliber: IWC 89361 Functions: Hours, minutes, small hacking seconds, flyback chronograph with chronograph hours and minutes in sub-dial at 12 o'clock, date Power Reserve: 68 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 38

Price: $12,500 Availability: July 2020

For more on the watch, click here , and for more on the capsule collection, click here.

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Portugieser

Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

Stainless steel case, Automatic, self-winding, Diameter 44.6 mm, Blue dial with luminescence, Stainless steel strap, Strap width 22.0 mm.

IWC Sustainability

IWC Schaffhausen goes beyond engineering precision timepieces to ensuring we do so in a responsible and sustainable way - ENGINEERING BEYOND TIME

Watch Details

• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6 mm
• Height 14.3 mm
• Screw in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water resistance 10.0 bar

• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28'800 VPH (4 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève

• Central hacking seconds
• Small hacking seconds
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Date display
• Flyback function
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds

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You may also choose to pick-up your purchase in one of our selected Boutiques, which can be chosen during the checkout. In this case, you will be notified by email when your order is ready for collection.

30 days, Phone only, Exc. Custom items, Gifts over phone only, ret/exch. Shipping fees: IWC

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Thanks to its ruggedness and water-resistance, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is the perfect companion on deck and ashore.

As a nautical sports watch, the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph combines timeless elegance with ruggedness and a 6 bar water-resistance. These characteristics make it an extremely versatile timepiece that exudes a beautiful figure both on water and on land. The filigree bezel and flat case ring lend the stainless-steel case with its 44-millimetre diameter expressly elegant proportions. The dial of this sporty chronograph impresses with typical Portugieser design features such as the characteristic minute scale and the appliquéd Arabic numerals. This model combines a blue dial with rhodium-plated hands and appliqués. The IWC-manufactured 89361 calibre with flyback function displays the stopped times combined in a single totalizer at "12 o’clock" and features a power reserve of 68 hours. The high-quality stainless-steel bracelet with polished and satin-finished surfaces ensures a perfect fit on the wrist.

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