yachtmaster 42mm

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OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER 42

MASTERING LIGHTNESS

Light and robust, the new Yacht-Master 42, in RLX titanium, is the ally of those who revel in freedom. Especially suited to the demands and pressures of competitive sailing, it delivers exceptional performance.

Rolex is presenting a new version of the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. This nautical watch is introduced for the first time in RLX titanium – a particularly strong but lightweight alloy – and is fitted on an Oyster bracelet. The new version stands out for its technical satin finish – a satin finish with a visible grain, a feature of Rolex watches in RLX titanium – which extends to the middle case sides, the edges of the bracelet links and the sides of the clasp cover. The chamfered top edges of the middle case lugs have a high-sheen finish, while the crown guard is polished. With its bidirectional rotatable bezel fitted with a Cerachrom insert in matt black ceramic featuring raised and polished numerals and graduations, the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium remains faithful to the aesthetics of the original model, unveiled in 2019. It is graced with an intense black dial in a fine satin finish, and its Oyster bracelet is equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link. The new version of the Yacht-Master 42 is equipped with calibre 3235, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the date as well as the hours, minutes and seconds. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

THE CALL OF THE OPEN SEAS Launched in 1992, the Yacht-Master was designed specifically for navigators and skippers. Embodying the rich heritage that has bound Rolex and the world of sailing since the 1950s, this Professional-category watch provides a perfect blend of functionality and nautical style, making it equally at home on and off the water. An emblematic nautical timepiece, it is easily recognized by its bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel made entirely from precious metal or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-technology ceramic.

RLX TITANIUM  RLX titanium is a grade 5 titanium alloy specially selected by Rolex. Like all titanium alloys, it is especially lightweight and is noted for its mechanical strength and corrosion resistance. Another characteristic of RLX titanium is the possibility of working it to give a polished or satin finish according to the brand’s specifications. Its high mechanical strength makes it complex to work with, and the decision to use it has required the introduction of special production processes.

HIGH-TECHNOLOGY CERAMIC Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics for creating monobloc bezels and bezel inserts. Not only are these materials virtually scratchproof, their colours are also of a rare intensity and are resistant to environmental effects. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, the high-tech ceramic is inert and cannot corrode. Rolex has developed exclusive expertise and innovative manufacturing methods that grant it complete independence in the production of these ceramic components. On the new version of the Yacht-Master 42, the bidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in matt black ceramic. Its raised graduations and numerals are first moulded into the ceramic and then polished. The first 15 minutes are graduated minute-by-minute to allow time intervals to be read with great precision. The bezel can also be turned with ease thanks to its knurled edge, which offers excellent grip.

OYSTER CASE, SYMBOL OF WATERPROOFNESS  A paragon of robustness and reliability, the 42 mm Oyster case of the new Yacht-Master 42 is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The middle case is crafted from a solid block of RLX titanium. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, which features a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses. 

PERPETUAL CALIBRE 3235  The new version of the Yacht-Master 42 is equipped with calibre 3235, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2015 and has been fitted on this model since its launch in 2019. A distillation of technology, this self-winding mechanical movement delivers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.   Calibre 3235 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. The hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance. The oscillating weight is now fitted with an optimized ball bearing. Calibre 3235 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 3235 extends to approximately 70 hours. 

OYSTER BRACELET AND OYSTERLOCK SAFETY CLASP  The new version of the Yacht-Master 42, made from RLX titanium, is fitted on an Oyster bracelet. Developed at the end of the 1930s, this three-piece link bracelet remains the most universal in the Oyster Perpetual collection and is known for its robustness. The Oyster bracelet of this new version of the Yacht-Master 42 features the Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It is also equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by Rolex, which allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. The Oyster bracelet in RLX titanium also includes patented ceramic inserts – designed by the brand – inside the links to enhance its flexibility on the wrist and its longevity.

SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER CERTIFICATION Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The in-house certification tests apply to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2 /+2 seconds per day – the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone. The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.

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The stealthy excellence of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold (ref. 226659)

If you weren’t paying close attention you could easily miss the new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold. And I mean that in the best way. It’s a handsome timepiece, with a quiet presence that (despite its newness) feels reassuringly familiar in some hard-to-define way.

Despite being 2mm bigger than its Everose Gold brother (and a 42mm Oyster case wears quite big), it’s the opposite of in your face. In fact, thanks to the monochrome colour scheme of the dial, bezel and case, and the matt black Oysterflex strap, it may be the most discreet model in Rolex’s entire line-up.

I’m not suggesting that it can’t be a love-at-first-sight piece – but the more closely you look, the greater the rewards. The absence of colour draws your eye to the details, and emphasises the play of shiny and matt surfaces: the fine band of polished notches around the outer edge of the bezel contrasts with the matt Cerachrom insert, which in turn plays against the shine of the black lacquer dial. The polished surfaces of the raised numerals on the bezel (they are an integral part of the bezel, moulded with the ceramic, rather than applied) cast barely-there shadows on the surrounding matt surface. And when the light plays over the highly polished case-side, with its seamless cutaway from lugs to crown guards – well, it’s a beautiful thing. The curve is perfect and the white gold has a visual softness that you just don’t get with steel or platinum.

The matt black rubber Oysterflex strap is the Goldilocks element, tying everything together in just-right harmony (whereas the hardness and shine of a metal bracelet could throw things off-balance visually).

Having been introduced in 2015, the Oysterflex strap is no longer news but it’s worth revisiting because it’s such a great piece of design – possibly the most comfortable watch strap known to mankind. That’s thanks to the tiny, flexible ‘blades’ hidden on the underside between a pair of longitudinal cushions. The effect is a feeling of extraordinary lightness on the wrist (balanced in this case by the pleasant heft of the white gold case), absolute stability and … no sweat. Literally, since the air can circulate between skin and strap. The folding clasp has an integrated extension system that enables you to adjust it in 2.5mm increments, up to a total of about 15mm – instantly and without tools.

On the dial, simplicity of the markers and their assertive size make it highly legible (again, with no colour to distract the eye – not even the line of red text that appears on other Yacht-Masters). Thanks to the Chromalight lume (which glows blue in the dark) none of this clarity is lost at night.

Rolex scores more points by bringing its new-generation Calibre 3235 (launched last year) into the Yacht-Master range for the first time – a technical step up from the Everose Gold model. The key attributes of cal.3235: the patented Chronergy escapement, designed to maximise energy efficiency and made of magnetically neutral nickel-phosphorus, and the Parachrom hairspring, resistant to shocks and also paramagnetic. The benefit: accuracy of +2/-2 seconds per day (tested after casing), more than twice the standard chronometer specification.

As we expect from Rolex, this is an exceedingly well built and tremendously practical watch, ideally suited to everyday sporting wear. Although it’s water-resistant to 100 metres, it’s designed for above-water not underwater life. The bezel is bi-directional; it’s Yacht-Master, not Dive-Master. It’s not a tool watch. So while I briefly thought – as I’m sure many of you did – “Why not steel?” I no longer ask that (rhetorical) question. White gold is entirely appropriate and, in this handsomely sporty monochrome package, it’s the stealth Rolex par excellence.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 (ref. 226659) price

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 , white gold on Oysterflex, $36,950

The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium, Very Rolex Yet Surprisingly Disturbing

It is undoubtedly a rolex from head to toe, yet it felt very surprising on the wrist....

Launched in 1992, the Rolex Yacht-Master has undoubtedly enjoyed a long shelf life but has never attained the same cult status as a Submariner. A watch inspired by the nautical world and meant to be used as a luxury yachting watch, its vocation and looks have always been slightly confusing. It looks somewhat like a Submariner but without the diving credentials. It has sporty specifications, yet it is truly luxurious and has often appeared in precious metals. Recent versions, with the enlarged 42mm diameter and the matte black bezel, changed this perception. But clearly, it’s the new Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium that signs the independence act of the collection. We’re taking a closer look at this watch that feels extremely familiar and, at the same time, left us with contradictory thoughts. Good or not, let’s check this out. 

Some context

The Yacht-Master collection was introduced at the 1992 edition of the Baselworld Fair. And believe me, this was quite an event. Rolex is known for its strategy of incremental updates and rarely presents new watches. In fact, when the YM was launched, it was one of the very few entirely new collections since the launch of the Daytona in 1963. However, despite the new name (well, not entirely, as it was first used in the late 1960s on a prototype watch based on a Daytona) and its unprecedented vocation within the Rolex portfolio, the watch felt familiar.

The modern-day version of the Yacht-Master made its first appearance with the reference 16628, an 18k yellow gold version with a white dial and black-filled hour markers. Looking at it, the resemblance with the Submariner and other aquatic models at Rolex is… obvious. Some say (nothing official here) that during the 1980s, the brand experimented with many different options to revamp its iconic Submariner. Several attempts later, something close to the Yacht-Master appeared; however, Rolex felt that redesigning the Sub was probably not the right move. Yet, the design caught people’s attention but had to be slightly updated so as not to cannibalise the all-important Submariner. The decision was made to position this design as a higher-end, luxurious nautical model.

The differences were straightforward: steel, 300m water-resistant case, black bezel, black dial and instrumental characteristics for the Submariner compared to the gold; 100m water-resistant case, bright dial, solid gold bezel, more rounded shapes and luxurious touches for the Yacht-Master. However, the visual resemblance persisted, which is probably why it took many years for the YM to become a model on its own. An important moment in the history of this watch is, to me, the introduction of the reference 116655 , an Everose model with a matte black dial, a matte ceramic bezel with raised numerals and the Oysterflex rubber bracelet. This is the moment when the YM became different… and much more attractive.

Since then, Rolex has gradually improved its nautical watch with the release of the Yacht-Master 42 – a new size, larger than a Submariner, to differentiate the collection. It would later be followed by a very appealing yellow gold edition .

The Prototype Yacht-Master 42 of Sir Ben Ainslie… In titanium

The current RLX Titanium edition of the Yacht-Master 42 doesn’t spring out of nowhere. It has existed for about three years already, but only as a prototype, on the wrist of legendary sailor Sir Ben Ainslie – winner of the 34th America’s Cup with Oracle Team USA in 2013, four-time Olympic champion, CEO and Skipper of INEOS Britannia and skipper of the Great Britain SailGP Team. This watch came to us as a surprise long after its creation in 2020. Despite appearing in the wild repeatedly, we only noticed its existence in late 2021, after it was mentioned in an interview on October 2020 in The Week . It was also mentioned in the official Rolex print magazine.

The watch in question, a prototype made exclusively for Ainslie for a very specific purpose and designed to be tested on the field, was made in RLX Titanium (back then an unprecedented material for Rolex, which would later be used on the Deepsea Challenge ) and looked like a deluxurised version of a well-known watch. Entirely matte, equipped with a black dial and black bezel and with a no-date display, it was worn on a technical NATO strap, which according to the brand, combines Cordura with high-performance elastomer and is closed by a Velcro for easy adjustments.

The existence of this watch immediately gave us some ideas, incorporated in our 2022 Rolex Predictions featuring a titanium Yacht-Master . And as we anticipated, it became a reality this year .

The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium

This year, Rolex launched its commercial version of the Yacht-Master 42 Titanium, which resulted in a slightly different watch from what we’ve seen on the wrist of Ainslie. More in line with the current white gold and yellow gold YM42 , the watch has many distinctive features. It isn’t just a titanium attire; it is a standalone model with its specificities and unique features.

First of all, let’s talk titanium at Rolex. The brand, over the years, has been using an array of metals – steel, with its own Oystersteel alloy (904L), gold in all possible colours and even proprietary alloys and platinum. Ceramic has long been used too, but only for bezel inserts. Rolex has never used ceramic or any other high-tech material for its cases. Until the recently introduced Deepsea Challenge , titanium has remained a rarity, used for the caseback of the Sea-Dweller Deepsea and for the Pelagos , which isn’t a Rolex but a Tudor, so it doesn’t really count.

Now, in less than six months, Rolex has released two watches made entirely of titanium, with an alloy named RLX – which is grade 5 titanium. One is a beast, a gigantic timepiece made to explore the deepest point of the oceans – a watch, objectively speaking, that is hardly wearable. The other one, the Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium reference 226627, is certainly one of the most comfortable models in the brand’s collection.

As said, the YM42 Titanium is more than just a new material applied to an existing watch. Of course, it shares multiple elements with its gold siblings, but some details truly set it apart. The case measures 42mm in diameter with a fairly contained 11.60mm thickness. Measuring 50.3mm from lug-to-lug, it’s not the smallest watch in the brand’s portfolio and wears slightly larger than a classic Submariner (40.5mm x 12.5mm x 47.6mm). All parts of the habillage are made of titanium, from the monobloc middle case to the crown, the rotating bezel, the caseback and the bracelet. The specifications are classic Rolex Yacht-Master, with a Triplock crown with integral guards, a screwed back, a sapphire crystal with AR coating and a Cyclops lens over the date and 100m water-resistance.

Classic features of the YM have been retained, such as the bidirectional bezel with a 60-minute Cerachrom insert. The latter sticks to the classic look of the collection, with a matte base and raised, polished numerals and markers without a lumed index. What makes the Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium so special, then? Well, first of all, the case features one very appealing detail: bevelled lugs. A nod to the past, this feature is exclusive to this titanium version and brings more dynamism to the case, as well as providing a nice historical reference – something that Rolex fanboys will surely appreciate (I do…). The second specificity of this model is its matte look. But I’ll come back to that point later.

The dial of this titanium YM42 is, however, classic. It retains most of the attributes of the white gold reference 226659, with oversized applied markers and hands in polished white gold and all tracks and printings in white. There is not a single touch of colour on this dial, which comes in a new colour named intense black, with a fine satin finish. Matte, with a velvet-like texture, this dial isn’t pure black like most of the watches in the brand’s collection but feels more like a very dark anthracite. Combined with a flat sapphire crystal with AR coating, the result is an almost complete lack of reflections. And the overall legibility, thanks to large markers and great contrast, is superb.

Inside the case is a classic Rolex movement, the calibre 3235 – used in the Submariner Date , the Datejust 41 and 36 , the Sea-Dweller or the Deepsea . A Superlative Chronometer (meaning certified by COSC and then by Rolex once the movement is encased), this automatic movement comes with all the recent innovations of Rolex: a bidirectional rotor on ball bearings, a Chronergy escapement, a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus pallet fork and escape wheel and a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. It beats at 4Hz, stores a comfortable 70h power reserve and features an instantaneous date and a stop-seconds mechanism. Simply one of the best time-and-date engines on the market.

The bracelet of this new Yacht-Master 42 is also made of RLX Titanium. A classic 3-link Oyster style, it is also entirely matte with a so-called technical satin finish . Contrary to most Oyster bracelets, the sides are also matte, and only the Coronet on the clasp is polished. As you would expect, it is on par with Rolex quality standards, with an Oysterlock folding safety clasp and the Easylink comfort extension link to adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5mm. Also, this bracelet includes patented ceramic inserts inside the links to enhance its longevity and flexibility on the wrist.

Some thoughts… It is a disturbing watch (but a good one)

When you’ve been into watches for some years, you develop some preconceived notions about Rolex timepieces and the way they look and feel on the wrist. There’s a certain heft, a presence on the wrist, consolidating the perception of quality and solidity. There’s also a sheen that is unique to Rolex, with glossy bezels and dials. Rolex watches are so emblematic that your brain is pre-formatted to a certain conception of what they should look and feel like on the wrist. The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium changes everything and breaks the norm. And it left me with mixed feelings, but not necessarily in a bad way.

When you take a Submariner and strap it around your wrist, it feels like home… It’s reassuringly heavy yet comfortable. Even though weight might be a bit irrational, weight adds to the feeling of quality and weight robustness. Having worn Rolex sports watches on so many occasions in my personal and professional life, I expect a watch from the Crown to weigh about 150/160 grams on a bracelet. It is a construction that is so deeply embedded in my brain that the moment I strapped the YM42 Titanium, I was left with a very disturbing sensation.

Yes, the watch looks like a Rolex, but it doesn’t feel like one on the wrist. It’s about 35% lighter than steel (around 100 grams), and everything I associated with how a Rolex should feel on the wrist simply vanished. I don’t want to sound too dramatic, but believe me when I say that it was a rather special experience at first. But the beauty is that you soon forget about this first impression and enjoy a watch that is surprisingly light. Despite its size, it is extremely comfortable and balanced. A watch that you’ll forget in about 30 seconds after you strapped it on the wrist. The initial feeling of a lack of robustness is, of course, just a misinterpretation of a pre-formatted brain and has nothing to do with the actual heft of the watch.

The second surprise with this watch is how it plays with the light and its lack of reflections. As said, most sports Rolex have a certain sheen. Even a Submariner or a Deepea feature glossy, reflective parts, such as the bezel and the sides of the case and the bracelet. The Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium is the most matte watch in the brand’s collection, with only a few polished accents (numerals on the bezel, bezel rim, and crown guards). Even the bevel on the side of the lugs is satin finished. This lack of sheen is definitely something new to Rolex and, far from me to complain, makes this model one of the most discreet and instrumental in the collection. It’s monochromatic, light on the wrist, and despite a size that I would have loved to be a bit smaller, a real joy to wear. It’s not a poser’s watch. The Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium is a tribute to when Rolex watches were made for a job. Yes, I’m very positive about this new release.

Availability & Price

The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium 226627 isn’t yet available at retailers but will be soon. At least, on paper, as it won’t be easily accessible, even by Rolex standards. The brand doesn’t communicate production numbers, but we’ve heard that this will remain, for now, a rather exclusive model. It is priced at EUR 13,900 ,  CHF 13,400 or  USD 14,050 . More details at rolex.com .

Technical specifications – Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium 226627

10 responses.

RLX, which is Grade 5 Titanium. 🙂 I laughed out loud, because it’s just so typical for the obfuscation the brand foists upon us via their marketing behemoth on an annual basis.

A “Piece Unique” is more common than this model ….

I have been looking forward to this for a while. But, I was hoping/expecting a more adjustable bracelet. If they can do it on the Pelagos at 1/3 the price, there’s no excuse they can’t do it for this

I only know that the so-called special steel Rolex uses on the bezel of their regular models was soft and easily scratched on the Rolex I owned. My humble Tissot which I wore every day for years, was much more scratch resistant. I wasn’t impressed with the materials Rolex uses. They make them look impressive in photos.I thought Rolex was the watch to have, until I got one.Sold and moved on.

IWC Mark XX vs new Ingenuier – the internet melts down at how expensive the watch is using the same movement.

DJ36 vs YM42 RLX- the internet would do anything (deranged Sxual favors included) to pay double for the YM even though they have the same movement.

Quite like the look of this one on its own, but on the wrist it looks genuinly gigantic..

Old dog doing new trick? It’s tough

Well, it really looks nice, and if it is that big and only weights 100 grams, that is really awesome!!!! I love Titanium watches more than any gold watch. But I am of the opinion that although Rolex is a brand producing excellent watches with a QC second to none, it is still too expensive for my taste. I own since 2017 as part of my watch collection, an Ocean 7 Diver chronometer with an ETA 2824-2, saphire crystal, ceramic bezel, 2000m WR with He Valve, and it had never failed me as my daily watch, and I only paid for it 365.00 USD including taxes new. I also have a 1971 Submariner, and I use both daily,one on each wrist, and I don’t see any difference on the accuracy/function. But I have to pay a fortune every time the Rolex is serviced, not with the Ocean 7 that I can service myself- I am a pretty good amateur watchmaker myself, is one of my hobbies. And when I am working at the Hospital near the MRI machines with that strong magnetic field, I then use my Speedmaster Master Chronometer with cal.3861, and it works flawlessly, and it is less expensive than this YM. I like expensive watches, but still look for the best bang of my buck. And I am an owner of a JLC Deep Sea 40mm, a Blancpain Fifty Fatoms, a Zodiac Super Sea Wolf, a Juvenia 200M Diver’s, and an Omega SMPO as part of my diver’s watch collection. But I like this Titanium YM a lot more than the Submariner or the Sea Dweller. That is what I can say.

best thing about this watch is it’s an alternative to the biG piLLowized case of the redesigned submariner a few years back. softer scratchable titanium and no bezel lume (guess people only yacht in the daytime) are reasons not to buy.

Really, why does one need a 42mm titanium Rolex watch when sailing his uber racing yacht!?! One need to keep your eyes on the gyro compass, or the magnetic compass including (always) the trim of the sails including the large readout on the on the E-chart display which includes instantly time, speed, direction and position. Last: Why does one need a watch when sailing in a corrosive salt sea and air environment? Answer: Beats me unless one wishes to show off his wealth at the yacht club dinner during post racing presentations where a 42mm titanium Rolex is a must.

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Why the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Is the Perfect Poster Boy for a New Age

The watch industry is always changing, always evolving, always reacting to the conditions of the world. But some things seem eternal. Through good times and bad, one brand has, since its foundation in 1905, seemed immune to weakness. A history of constant innovation and textbook PR has resulted in a Rolex watch becoming one of the most desirable products in the world, and the brand name that is easily one of the most recognizable.

To establish the kind of reputation Rolex has, you have to do things differently. You also have to be ahead of the curve. Rolex has done that with aplomb in the past, and by carefully controlling the supply of steel watches, while moving the brand forward in a slightly different direction through the release of some headline-grabbing pieces at this year’s Baselworld (including the new Rolex Yacht-Master 42), Rolex is continuing to map its own destiny.

It didn’t begin with the renaissance of Tudor, but that event in 2007 now looks in retrospect to be the beginning of a transformation that elevated Rolex from a brand to some kind of looming deity. Simply put, Tudor is the new Rolex, and Rolex is a new thing entirely. When I speak to brand managers the world over (many of whom are trembling and sleep-deprived as the struggle to conceive strategies to lever attention away from the Crown) they all say the same thing in one way or another.

Rolex is no longer a brand; Rolex is a phenomenon. Trying to go toe-to-toe with Rolex is like boxing with your reflection, or shooting at smoke. It’s a fight you can’t win. It isn’t about the fact your opponent is stronger than you, it’s about the fact that your opponent is fighting on a different plane of existence entirely.

For three years I managed the sales accounts of a well-known German brand across 17 countries. Despite the vastly differing cultures, tastes, and consumer motivations, the presence and adulation of Rolex were ever-present. The power of the Crown is never more felt than when trying to negotiate space in a retail environment for the product of another brand.

For example, I once asked a retailer if I could commandeer thirty centimeters of unused counter space in his store. His face screwed up instantly as if suddenly overtaken by a crippling bout of indigestion. “Well,” he said through gritted teeth, “I’ll have to check with Rolex.”

Duly, he made the call. The answer came back as predicted.

“No,” he said, unable to make eye-contact with me. “Rolex wants that space now.”

I had offered him a full collection of watches with an extended payment terms so he could get the models into his store and test the water before making a significant financial investment. In contrast, Rolex had offered him one GMT Master II “Batman” (on the professional bracelet, not the Jubilee). The choice, for him, was simple. The “Batman” was already sold. It was money in the bank. And his relationship with Rolex – the lifeblood of his livelihood – was intact.

Trying to build a brand next to Rolex is like growing a tree in the shadow of a mountain. It’s not impossible, but there isn’t much light left to go around.

That kind of power is hard to contend with. Rolex has cultivated it over generations. One way in which they’ve managed this is to have been a tireless inventor. The brand’s watches have always been innovative and eminently practical. With every stone turned over in search of incremental gains, Rolex even changed the type of steel it uses in the production of its watches because it could.

Rolex uses 904L, while most of the industry uses 316L stainless steel. Most notable is 904L’s higher molybdenum content, which reduces the chance that the steel will pit or corrode. Although this kind of benefit is the sort of thing you might imagine other brands trying to cash in on, it isn’t that simple. 904L stainless steel is notoriously difficult to work with. Not only do you need special tools to cut it, you also need to be patient as it has an annoying tendency to overheat while being machined. This means manufacturers using 904L must be patient to avoid it blowing up (almost literally) in their faces.

Despite its foibles, Rolex’s first use of 904L steel was in a 1988 Sea-Dweller, and its collection-wide adoption of it in 2003 has been one of the brand’s calling cards. It makes perfect sense for a rugged sports watch brand that is hell-bent on improving the performance of its products. But the thing is, Rolex is changing. Rolex, for all its insistence that it is still a brand built around endeavor and adventure, is transitioning into something else, and its special steel (Oystersteel as they’ve started calling it since 2018) is no longer as central to the brand’s image as it once was.

Around the time of the Tudor rebrand (2007), you could still buy a Rolex no-date Submariner for around four and a half grand. Today the price is double that. Even adjusting for inflation won’t make you feel much better about not loading up on Submariners when you had the chance to get them for a relative song.

But crazier than the current retail prices is the current availability. In 2007, you could walk into a store and buy a green dial, green bezel Rolex Submariner “Hulk” out of the cabinet. If you had the money, you could get the watch. Waiting lists, enforced scarcity, and secondary market prices double the ticket just didn’t exist like they do today. Now, finding a retailer that has a professional model in stock is harder than finding a hen with teeth.

Tudor, meanwhile, has remained very fairly priced. With all the benefits of Rolex’s know-how and freedom to reinvent the brand, Tudor has carved its own niche with its own audience. It is, almost without a doubt, the Rolex of its generation.

Its savvy marketing campaign, excellent build quality, and never-overstated connection to the industry’s Big Brother has made it a hit with the customers discovering the industry for the first time. The Pelagos and Black Bay watches of today will likely be future classics in the way the Submariners and the Datejusts of old are today.

But since Rolex became an industry super-power, removed from the regular concerns of watch companies, it needed a new champion, a poster boy for a new age, a darling that is at once everything Rolex was and everything it is going to be…

The Rolex Yacht-Master 42

The stage could not have been more perfectly set for the release of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 at this year’s Baselworld. With its white gold case, simple black dial, matte black Cerachrom bezel, and black Oysterflex rubber strap, it is the epitome of stealth luxury. It also happens to be just about the most hypnotic black/black diver on a rubber band that anyone could imagine.

Why is the Yacht-Master 42 so perfect for this new age? Well, its a barrel load of contradictions packed into a 42mm case. But those contradictions are what make Rolex the brand it is these days. They are what makes it so hard to copy what the brand does. Because, on paper, it just doesn’t add up.

For all intents and purposes, the Yacht-Master 42 is a sports watch. And yet it’s not. Not really – its white gold case puts paid to that idea before the conversation even begins. It is instead, perhaps the most luxurious, desirable, deliciously devil-may-care thing the brand has ever produced.

Within the 18k white gold case of the Yacht-Master 42 is the Rolex Caliber 3235. The recipient of 14 patents, it includes the new Chronergy escapement, which is highly efficient and dependable. It contains all the hallmarks of a Rolex Perpetual movement suited to an active lifestyle, such as the Blue Parachrom hairspring (highly resistant to magnetic fields and temperature interference) and the Paraflex shock absorption system.

When you think of crazily luxurious watches made by Rolex, you’d be forgiven for thinking of a diamond-encrusted case, or even a rainbow bezel. But this trumps them all. The Yacht-Master 42 is the kind of luxury that only people in the know understand. For your investment, you don’t get anything that will scream your wealth across a room. Instead, you get something that is deliberately pared back. Something that is designed to catch the corner of an onlooker’s eye, but not their full attention. The Yacht-Master 42 is a watch that demands awareness to be appreciated. This is something for the wearer themselves to enjoy. Something deeply personal. Something deeply Rolex.

There are many stories as to where the five-pronged logo of Rolex comes from, and even more about what it represents. But if we take it for what it simply appears to be, it could not be more fitting. This brand is king. It may not have the finest movement finishing, the most mind-boggling complications, or price tags on a level with mansions or private jets, but Rolex has a heritage, a character, and a reputation that cannot be usurped. With this new direction with the Yacht-Master 42 carving out an evermore inaccessible niche, the brand next to whom any other would be happy to sit continues to stride further and further away from the pack.

About Rob Nudds

Rob Nudds is a WOSTEP-trained watchmaker, who graduated from the British School of Watchmaking. After working at the bench with brands such as Omega, Longines, Blancpain, and Bremont, he began working for NOMOS Glashütte, managing a retail network covering 17 countries, most notably the UK and USA.

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Hands-On: Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Watch Reference 226627 In RLX Titanium

The visceral experience of wearing the Yacht-Master 42 titanium is very odd for any long-time Rolex fan. Rolex more or less helped create the 20th-century notion that you can often measure the value of a watch by feeling how solid and weighty it is. Rolex watches have never been designed for lightness, so most of them are quite hefty, and beloved for that reason. It is common for someone to admire a precious metal Rolex simply by feeling its mass in the open palm of your hand.

The Rolex Yacht-Master 42 was introduced in 2019 with tones very similar to this titanium model, but rather in 18k white gold and on a black Rolex Oysterflex strap. A yellow gold version was eventually added, and it seemed as though Rolex’s largest Yacht-Master was destined to be a precious-metal-only product. The 2023 226627 Yacht-Master 42 changes that paradigm by adding in a full grade 5 titanium case and matching bracelet to the product family. This is what people should consider the first “wearable” Rolex watch produced from titanium.

Even though Rolex uses the same grade 5 titanium as other brands, it focuses a lot on surface finishing and polishing for this timepiece. Rolex uses a sort of deep-grain engraving, which is somewhat different from the same effect on steel. Titanium as a color is also a bit darker than the comparatively bright 904L steel that most other (non-precious metal) Rolex sport watches are made out of. Titanium does scratch, and I asked Rolex about the service plan for the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. To make a long story short, Rolex will offer the same “case refresh” service for its titanium watches as it does for its steel and gold watches, though in reality, Rolex will have to use some special processes to polish titanium so that it looks fresh and new again. “RLX titanium” is really just Rolex’s way of indicating that it polishes and finishes titanium metal differently from other brands (according to Rolex).

Other than being in titanium with the matching bracelet, there isn’t too much new here. The Yacht-Master 42 case is 42mm-wide and has similar proportions as other watches in the larger Oyster Perpetual watch. The case is water resistant to 100 meters, and around the dial is a uni-directional rotating bezel with a matte-black ceramic insert that matches the matte-dark-gray tone of the Yacht-Master 42 dial.

Inside the watch is the Rolex in-house-made caliber 3235 automatic movement that operates at 4Hz with about 70 hours of power reserve. The movement offers the time with date and on the sapphire crystal is a Rolex “cyclops” magnifier lens. Titanium is considered by many engineers to be the perfect material for wristwatch cases. While I don’t think it is possible to ever determine “bests” in regard to an emotional product, it is true that you can easily enjoy the Yacht-Master 42 in titanium from purely a tool watch perspective. The lighter weight and large size give this 42mm-wide Rolex an interesting and desirable personality. It also makes us wonder whether or not there will be more titanium Rolex watches in the future. Possibly some, but I don’t think that Rolex, primarily a maker of conspicuous jewelry-style watches, will heavily focus on a material that will not hold a high polish as nicely as steel, gold, or platinum watches.

For watch lovers and Rolex collectors, there really is a lot of novelty to wearing a Rolex watch in titanium simply because most people haven’t ever done so before. The sister brand Tudor has had the Pelagos, which, for a while, was really the more sober equivalent of this Rolex Yacht-Master 42 226627. It is also much less expensive, but it doesn’t have the iconic Oyster Perpetual case shape and the famous Submariner-style dial that this Yacht-Master does.

While the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium raises a lot of interesting philosophical questions about what Rolex should and shouldn’t be doing, the product will be a commercial success given the current latent demand for high-end titanium sport watches and anything even remotely interesting from Rolex. Rolex has made it clear that production of the titanium Yacht-Master 42 is going to be limited in scope, in large part because there are so many pieces of titanium in the case, and especially the bracelet, that all need to bear precisely matching polishes and finishes. I don’t imagine that this watch is easy for Rolex to make, but we do know that Rolex could increase production of titanium watches if it ever wanted to. Price for the very interesting and comfortable reference 226627 Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium is $14,050 USD . Learn more at the Rolex watches website here .

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Any other year, the titanium yacht-master 42 would steal the show for rolex. this year, the brand has so many crazy releases that the ym flies under the radar. here's why it still matters..

A year ago, the very idea of a titanium Rolex was relegated to wild dreams. A prototype had been seen on the wrist of British competitive sailor Sir Ben Ainslie, but the widely circulated online photo had gotten so old that some of us began to wonder if the watch would ever see the light of day.

The pic that launched our titanium dreams. Image by Ineos Britannia Team / C GREGORY

Now, in less than five months, we've gotten two watches from the Crown cased in RLX Titanium (a grade 5 titanium). The first was last year's 50mm Deep Sea Special , the mega dive watch that obliterated the water-resistance record. And now this week we have the Yacht-Master 42, which unlike the DSS is sized so that a normal human being could conceivably wear it. 

Here it is. The first practically sized titanium Rolex, the new Yacht-Master 42. 

It's a big deal. But when seen next to Daytonas with display casebacks, Day-Dates with emojis, a solid-gold GMT-Master II, and an entirely new line of dress watches, a titanium Yacht-Master barely moves the needle of surprise and excitement. What a wild 48 hours this has been for the House of Wilsdorf.

In some ways, it feels like the appropriate response to not be that excited. After all, at this point every other watchmaker under the sun has made a titanium watch, from affordable Citizens in multiple colors of bezels and dials to Jean-Claude Biver's $500,000 minute repeater tourbillon announced Sunday.

And yet, as soon as the new titanium Yacht-Master ref. 226627 started to be passed around the room of Hodinkee editors during this week's Watches & Wonders trade show, the general reaction was just to laugh with surprise. This 42mm watch, which looks so sturdy, feels so unbelievably light. I mean, that's titanium for you. But still. You can't quite believe this watch is real, on a number of different levels. 

For any of us who've ever tried on a steel Submariner (a.k.a. anyone with a passing interest in Rolex), it's kind of comical to find out how much your brain is preconditioned to see a 42mm steel Oyster case, round indices, and Mercedes hands and think about the luxurious heft that awaits you.

At around 100 grams, according to Rolex, the titanium Yacht-Master is so light it breaks your brain.

For a moment, let's compare the new YM to last year's titanium Pelagos from Rolex's sister brand Tudor. Rolex's choice to put the watch on a bracelet instead of a sportier Oysterflex makes the comparison obvious. I've now spent time with both pieces, and I prefer the Yacht-Master. 

The YM, like the Pelagos, is distinctly a tool watch – something that would have been hard to say about Yacht-Masters in the past. But the finishing a world apart, which is saying something for such an understated metal as titanium.

Rolex's proprietary grade 5 "RLX Titanium" (stronger than the grade 2 of the Pelagos) has the curious property of being equally able to be brushed satin or polished, which means it has the nice sharp and shiny chamfers that you'd like to see contrasted against the dark grey and relatively matte metal. That combination also works well with the more matte and textured dial – and with the contrast of the raised black numerals against a matte ceramic bezel insert, which is is the main giveaway that this is still squarely a Yacht-Master.

My main critique (which I share into the void, knowing that Rolex designers will do whatever they think best) is that I wish they'd  stuck to the no-date design of Ainsilie's prototype. In the practical application of most sailing races, there's really no use for a date. If you're blue-water sailing and circumnavigating the globe, maybe its useful, though just like dive watches the practical application gives way to the reality of technology. So why not refine the design further and leave the date off altogether? And while we're at it, a better quick-adjustment option would be great.

The price is somewhat immaterial – CHF 13,400 – since the average collector won't be able to get it at retail anytime soon. But the new Yacht-Master 42 is more than a solid release. It's a more than a titanium proof of concept. It's a wearable piece that portends at least the possibility of future experiments with this fascinating material. 

For more information visit Rolex. 

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Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Oyster, 42 mm, RLX titanium M226627-0001

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Light and robust, the new Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium is the ally of those seeking freedom of movement. Especially suited to the demands and pressures of competitive sailing, it puts watchmaking excellence at the service of sporting performance.   The Yacht-Master 42 is the second watch in RLX titanium released by Rolex after the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge, confirming that lightness is a quality to be taken seriously..

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Oyster Perpetual

Yacht-Master

Staying on course, mapping invisible routes.

For those at sea, staying on course is a constant challenge. When dealing with the elements, nothing is certain and constant reaction is required to stay in the right direction. Since its launch in 1992, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master has been equipped with a bidirectional rotatable bezel that facilitates the calculation and reading of navigational time. Elegantly combining functionality and nautical style, this watch has made its mark well beyond its professional realm.

A shared quest for precision

Knowing where you are in space and time, setting a course and sticking to it are vital in navigation. Given its function, the watch is an essential tool for sailors to assess their position. Regarded as the most precise horological instruments in the world, marine chronometers have been certified by astronomical observatories since the 18th century. At the time, the ultimate authority for measuring chronometric precision was the Kew Observatory in Great Britain.

In 1914, the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, had one of the brand’s watches tested by this very observatory, which certified it as a chronometer: a first in the watchmaking world for a wristwatch. Since then, renowned sailors, such as Sir Francis Chichester and Bernard Moitessier, have navigated the seas with Rolex wristwatches serving as onboard chronometers.

Matching the precision of marine chronometers was fundamental to Rolex’s watchmaking.

Designed for navigators

Sailing occupies a special place in the world of Rolex. In 1958, the brand partnered the New York Yacht Club, creator of the legendary America’s Cup. Rolex then formed partnerships with several prestigious yacht clubs around the world and became associated with major nautical events – offshore races and coastal regattas.

These strong ties culminated in 1992 with the launch of the Yacht-Master. Boasting the robustness and waterproofness of our Oyster case, this chronometer is fitted with a bidirectional bezel with raised 60-minute graduations to enable navigational time to be calculated and read.

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Precious on land and at sea

Available in three diameters – 37, 40 and 42 mm – and in various precious versions – 18 ct yellow, white and Everose gold – as well as in Everose Rolesor and Rolesium versions, the Yacht-Master is unique in the world of Rolex professional watches. An elegant watch with a sporty character, it was the first to be paired with an Oysterflex bracelet in 2015.

In 2023, after testing under real-life conditions by acclaimed helmsman Sir Ben Ainslie, Rolex launched a new version of the Yacht-Master 42. It is made of RLX titanium, a high-performance material, at once light, robust and corrosion resistant.

A veritable ally at sea, the Yacht-Master also elegantly adorns the wrists of navigators once back on solid ground. With many different versions, it is a model that transcends its seafaring origins. It has become a watch for those who know how to change course without losing sight of the horizon, moving freely.

Yacht-Master 42

Oyster, 42 mm, yellow gold.