how to build a model sailboat

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How to Build a Model Ship

Last Updated: January 22, 2024 References

This article was co-authored by wikiHow Staff . Our trained team of editors and researchers validate articles for accuracy and comprehensiveness. wikiHow's Content Management Team carefully monitors the work from our editorial staff to ensure that each article is backed by trusted research and meets our high quality standards. This article has been viewed 245,516 times. Learn more...

Model ship building is an interesting hobby that many people enjoy. It can be a lot of fun to see your model ship come together as you build it. Most model ships are accurate representations of actual ships and even share some things in common with their construction processes. If you've never built a model ship before, don't worry. There are plenty of model kits that have all the pieces you'll need to build your own model ship.

Buying a Model Boat Kit

• Your local hobby shops will likely have model boat kits available to buy.
• Many on-line hobby shops can send a model boat kit to your home.
• There are many different model boat kit styles that you can buy. Many of these will have a differing levels of difficulty and challenge.
• If this is your first time building a model boat, try to select a simple model for beginners.
• Do some research on the type of boat you are building to help you get an idea of what it will look like when finished. [1] X Research source

• You will likely want a wood plane or sandpaper.
• Small pliers can help when assembling the model.
• You may find a complete ship model tool kit that will provide everything you need to get started.

• Each model boat will have its own instructions.
• Always consult your instruction manual every step.

Building the Body of a Model Ship

• Make sure all the parts are accounted for.
• Make sure none of the parts are damaged.
• Find your instructions manual and review it.
• You may need additional tools or materials. Check your instructions to see if you need to buy anything else before getting started.
• Slide the bulkhead frames into the keel. The keel will be the long piece of the frame, running the length of the boat. The bulkheads will slide into slots found on the keel. Bulkheads will help shape the planks of your boat when it's time to apply them.
• Once you're sure everything fits, you can glue the bulkhead frames into the keel.
• Make sure everything is level and flat on the top of the frame. If any bulkheads or areas of the keel are higher than others, use sandpaper to level them off.

• Place a plank over the bulkheads.
• If there is a space where the plank doesn't touch a bulkhead, sand the bulkheads down until the plank rests flatly against each bulkhead.
• Take your time and make sure each plank will lay flatly against the bulkheads.
• Make sure to test both sides of the bulkheads.
• If you sand one area down too much, you can add tiny slivers of wood later on to level off the plank.

• You will likely place the first plank at deck level.
• Planks run the length of the boat, from fore to aft.
• Each plank will be glued to the bulkheads that it is meant to touch.
• Check your model's instructions to learn where you should place your first plank.
• Add planks in pairs to ensure they are even and level with one another. Your first planks should mirror images of one another.
• Soaking planks in water can help them become more flexible.
• If there are any gaps, you can use wood filler or small pieces of wood to fill them in.
• Your model may have you add additional layers of planking. Follow your model's unique instructions when adding planks to ensure the best results.
• Additional layers of planking are often decorative.
• You may need to taper some planks to close up gaps.

• Your model boat's hull should look completely smooth after sanding it.
• Each plank will look like it was naturally blended or attached to the next.
• No one plank should stick out further than another.
• Double check your model before adding any finishing touches.
• You may need to use wood filler or small pieces of wood to make the deck piece lay level.
• Take a moment to sand down any rough areas that you might notice.
• Your model will likely have specific instructions for attaching the deck piece. Always check your instructions to make sure your model will be successfully completed.

Finishing the Model Boat

• Most wooden model boats will require some kind of wood stain and sealant to protect the wood.
• Some models can be decoratively painted to look like their real life counter parts.
• Matte or stain polyurethane finishes can be a great addition to your model boat.
• Figurehead.
• The boat's wheel.
• Quarterdeck.

• You can buy model boat displays at many hobby stores.
• You shouldn't have any leftover parts from your model. If you do, try to figure out where it was supposed to go and add it if possible.
• Be careful with your finished model boat as it will be fragile.

Community Q&A

• You could also try buying a plastic kit. Most plastic kits come with pre-made sections that can be snapped or glued together easily. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• Don't be in a rush to assemble your model boat. Take your time with each step to make sure everything is correct. Thanks Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0
• All models will have their own instructions. Try to follow these as closely as you can to ensure great results. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0

Things You'll Need

• A model boat kit of your choosing.
• Tools required by the kit.
• A clean and well lit space to build the model in.

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• ↑ http://www.intothings.com/reality.html
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GulqnmgkPpQ
• ↑ https://daveifm.wordpress.com/
• ↑ http://www.building-model-boats.com/boat-hull-design.html
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSyVTYBwOmc
• Videos provided by Gary Brinker

About This Article

If you want to build a model ship, buy a boat kit that will have all of the pieces you’ll need for your new hobby. Most kits require some basic tools to assemble, like a wood plane or sander and small pliers, so make sure to check the requirements before you start building. When you’re ready to start, begin by building the frame, including the bulkheads, deck, and hull. Once the frame is done, stain, paint, or seal your boat to give it a more finished look. Then, add details, like sails, masts, wheels, and rigging. When you're done with your project, buy a model boat display at a hobby store to proudly show all of your hard work. To learn how to sand your model boat, keep reading! Did this summary help you? Yes No

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Become the Confident Skipper of Your Own Sailboat

Sailboat model building.

• Post author: Anns
• Post published: October 11, 2022
• Post category: Uncategorized
• Post comments: 0 Comments

Introduction

You can build a model sailboat out of wood, and it’s really easy. This blog will show you how to build a basic wooden sailboat model that’s good for beginners and more experienced modelers alike.

How to build a Sailboat: Part 1

Building a sailboat has been my dream since I was a kid. I have always wanted to build one from scratch, but never had the time or money to do so. Now that I am retired and have more time on my hands, I have decided to start building this beautiful wooden sailboat model from plans that I bought online. Here’s how you can build your own wooden sailboat:

How to build a Sailboat: Part 2

Before you can begin building a sailboat, you need to build a keel. The keel is the main part of your boat and without it, your boat would have no stability. This is what keeps the boat from tipping over when sailing in rough seas.

Next, you need to make a hull for your sailboat model by using pine wood or balsa wood strips that are glued together with sticky glue (which is sold at most craft stores). After making sure that all of the pieces fit together properly, start applying paint or stain onto each plank so they look real!

Afterwards, make sure there are no gaps between each plank so that water cannot get inside while sailing out on open waters! You’ll also want as many planks as possible because this will improve your ship’s speed! In fact…

How to Build a Sailboat: Part 3

Now that you have a hull, it’s time to turn your attention to the deck. The deck is what rests on top of the hull and provides a platform for sailing. The size, shape and placement of this part are all up to you based on what kind of ship you want to build.

Once you’ve made your decision about how big or small your deck should be, take measurements from below so that it fits snugly in place over the hull. You may need some help from someone with better eyesight than yours if parts don’t line up quite right (as they often won’t!). Then cut out some wood planks with a saw and glue them together using wood glue or waterproof epoxy (like Gorilla Glue). Afterward make sure everything fits snugly by sanding down any rough edges before painting or staining them!

At this point everything looks great with just one problem—it needs something more than just wood planks sticking out everywhere! So let’s start adding railings next….

How to Build a Sailboat: Part 4

Being able to build a sailing ship from scratch is a skill that many people never get around to learning. It’s not just hard, it’s also expensive. Not everyone can afford to go out and buy a kit where all the pieces are put together for them, nor do they want to spend hours in the garage cutting wood with their tool of choice. Here at Sailboat Model Building we’re here to help!

In this article we’ll be showing you how you can build your own sailboat from scratch using nothing more than some basic tools, maybe a table saw if you’re lucky enough, and some time on your hands (but not too much!). We’ll also teach about why building your own models is an important step towards being able to build real life sailing ships in the future!

You can make your own sailboats from wood.

You can build your own sailboat from wood. To do so, you’ll need:

• Wood for the boat’s hull and deck (about ¾ inch thick).
• Plywood for the boat’s keel and mast (about ½ inch thick).
• Fiberglass cloth to make a fiberglass hull that is stiffer than wood. It should be cut into 2-inch wide strips with an overlapping seam in the middle of each strip. The seams should run lengthwise along the sides of the boat instead of parallel with them so that they won’t show when you’re done painting it. The cloth needs to be about 6 inches longer than each side of your boat; use Velcro or duct tape at either end so that you can overlap them without getting any glue on yourself while working on this project!
• Epoxy resin glue which comes in two parts – one part hardens quickly while another part hardens slowly over several hours or days depending on how thickly they’re applied together! This makes sure everything stays put even when exposed to strong winds out there sailing around on open water!

Building a real sailboat from wood is a rewarding project that can be done with minimal tools and space. It’s also something you can do with your children as long as they’re old enough to understand safety precautions for working with sharp objects like saws or knives. I hope this blog has given you some insight into how it’s done!

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How to Build Model Ships – Part One | ModelSpace

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There’s a lot to love about a well-crafted, well finished model ship . The art, the history, the craft – all of these elements, when done right, combine to give you a statement piece that will look incredible no matter where you display it. But what ship should you build? And where do you begin? Read on for part one of our beginner tips on how to build model ships!

Choosing your model ship

Before you set sail on your ship building journey, there are a few factors to consider when choosing your vessel:

• Difficulty level – Truth be told, model ships are on the harder end of the scale model difficulty scale. Take into account your own experience, and review the ship you’re looking to build. If you are willing to learn, starting with a smaller, less detailed ship can be a great way to hone your craft before building something trickier.
• Scale and size – Larger ships often have more detail, and give you a more accurate representation of the real ship, whereas smaller scales can generally be built more easily and displayed in more places. Before you build, you will also need to ensure you have the bench space for your finished model.
• Instructions – While scratch building a model ship is achievable and commendable, if you’re new to this type of model you’ll need a detailed set of instructions for each stage of the process. Check these before you start, and get a feel for the project as a whole.

Tools for model ship building

Every great ship builder uses a variety of tools for their craft, and model ship building is no different. Here are some of the most common tools you’ll need for your ship building project:

• Hobby knife with spare blades
• Needle files
• Measuring tape
• Sandpaper and/or sanding blocks
• Plank bender
• Planking screws

Now that you’ve chosen your scale model ship, it’s time for the fun to begin. Below are a few of the key steps needed to build model ships.

Reviewing your model pieces

This should go without saying, but it’s important when starting any model building project to check that you have everything you should have. Lay out the pieces, and check they match what is listed in your build instructions. Now’s a great time to also confirm the tools you are going to need moving forward. 

Building your model ship frame

Start by building the ship’s frame, as this will give you the body of your model. From this body, you can add all the other major components to bring your model ship to life. Here are some quick tips for building a scale model ship frame:

•  Insert your bulkhead frames into your keel – the long piece which runs the length of your model ship. The keel will have slots where you can insert the bulkheads.
• Check that everything is firmly in place before applying glue.
• Use sandpaper or sanding blocks to level off any parts that are out of alignment with the other pieces.

Levelling your model ship’s bulkheads

Before laying down any planks, you need to ensure that they will lay straight and even across each of the bulkheads. Here are a few key steps to check that your model ship bulkheads are level:

• Lay your first plank across the bulkheads to check the bevel.
• Take note of any spaces between the plank and bulkheads.
• File or sand down any problem bulkheads so that the first plank lays flat and even across all of them. You want them to have full, thick contact, not just a thin edge.
• Check each side of your bulkheads.
• If you file or sand down any bulkhead too far, you can add thin wood pieces to remedy this later.
• Recheck before proceeding – this is one of the most important steps in building a satisfactory scale model ship.

Adding your model ship’s first planks

Now that your bulkheads are aligned and you have checked that the planks will lay flat, you can start adding them to the frame. By the end of this step you will have the hull, and a better feel for how your model ship will look. Here are some tips for laying model ship planks correctly:

• Following the provided instructions, take extra time placing and affixing your first plank. This will help you determine the placement of each plank that follows.
• Place your planks in pairs, as this will help keep them level and aligned evenly.
• For additional flexibility, you can soak your planks in water before placement.
• Remember that your planks will run the full length of the model ship, fore to aft.

Thus concludes part one of our guide for how to build model ships. By now you should have gotten a good feel for the build, the pieces, the overall instructions, and a first glimpse at how it will all come together. If you’re ready to keep building, check out part two now!

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Learn How to Make a Miniature Sailboat | Step-by-Step Guide

Alex Morgan

Making a miniature sailboat can be a rewarding and enjoyable hobby. Building your own miniature sailboat allows you to unleash your creativity, learn about boat construction, and have a functional piece of art. With the right materials, tools, and techniques, you can create a beautiful miniature sailboat that is both aesthetically pleasing and capable of sailing. In this article, we will guide you through the process of making a miniature sailboat, from gathering materials and tools to painting and finishing touches, testing and setting sail, as well as troubleshooting and maintenance. Let’s embark on this exciting journey of constructing your very own miniature sailboat.

Key takeaway:

• Making a miniature sailboat maximizes creativity: Building a miniature sailboat allows individuals to express their creativity and craftsmanship while creating a functional toy or decorative piece.
• Gathering the right materials and tools is crucial: The quality of the miniature sailboat depends on using the right materials and tools for each component, such as the hull, mast, sails, rigging, and accessories.
• Attention to detail enhances the finished product: Painting and adding finishing touches to the miniature sailboat, including sanding, priming, applying paint and varnish, and adding details and decorations, bring the sailboat to life and make it visually appealing.

Gather Materials and Tools

Get ready to set sail on a fantastic DIY adventure! In this section, we’ll dive into the essential steps of gathering materials and tools for creating your very own miniature sailboat. From crafting the sturdy hull to designing the mast and sails, we’ll cover all the bases. We’ll even explore the intricate details of rigging and accessories that will give your sailboat that extra touch of authenticity. So, hoist your imagination and get ready to embark on this nautical journey with us.

To create the table for the sub-topic “ 1. Hull “, the following information is provided:

The table above provides vital information about the hull of a miniature sailboat. It includes details about the construction material , shape , length , width , keel , and bilge . These factors greatly impact the sailboat’s performance and stability on the water.

2. Mast and Sails

When building a miniature sailboat, the mast and sails are the most crucial components. It is essential to select a strong and lightweight material such as aluminum or carbon fiber for the mast. Cutting the mast to the desired length is also important, ensuring that it is tall enough to catch sufficient wind. To guarantee stability, securely attaching the mast to the boat’s deck using screws or bolts is necessary. Attaching the sails to the mast with sail ties or rigging clips is essential, ensuring proper alignment and tightness. Setting up the necessary rigging lines to control the positioning and tension of the sails is also important. Prior to setting sail, it is crucial to test the mast and sails to ensure that they are securely fastened and functioning properly.

I once had the exciting experience of building a miniature sailboat, and attaching the mast and sails filled me with anticipation. As the wind caught the sails and propelled the boat forward, a sense of pride engulfed me for my creation. Witnessing my sailboat smoothly glide across the water, responding to the wind, was an exhilarating sight. Building and sailing a miniature sailboat truly showcases the ingenuity and craftsmanship of humans.

3. Rigging and Accessories

Below is a table outlining the steps of rigging and accessorizing a miniature sailboat:

Rigging and accessories are vital for the performance and functionality of a miniature sailboat. Securely attaching the mast and sails ensures stability and proper maneuvering. Rigging lines adjust the sails to catch wind effectively. Accessories such as pulleys, cleats, and winches enhance overall control and ease of operation. Paying attention to proper rigging and accessories leads to a well-functioning and enjoyable miniature sailboat experience.

Throughout history, sailing has fascinated and allowed people to explore open waters. Sailboats have been used for transportation, discovery, and leisure from ancient civilizations to modern times. Miniature sailboats now provide enthusiasts with the thrill of sailing on a smaller scale. With the right rigging and accessories, these vessels navigate waters gracefully and precisely, bringing joy to builders and sailors. The art of rigging a sailboat has been passed down through generations and holds tremendous importance in sailing. By understanding the rigging process and selecting suitable accessories, sailors can create miniature sailboats that embody the spirit of adventure and love for the sea.

Building the Miniature Sailboat

To set sail on the journey of building a miniature sailboat , we’ll dive into the practical steps that bring it to life. Get ready to embark on a captivating adventure as we tackle the art of constructing the hull, attaching the mast and sails, and adding the intricate rigging and accessories. From the sturdy foundation of the hull to the intricate details of the rigging, each sub-section will unveil essential elements to create a captivating miniature sailboat . So, grab your tools and let’s set sail into the world of boat building !

1. Constructing the Hull

To begin constructing the hull, gather all of the necessary materials including plywood, a saw, and sandpaper. Measure and cut the plywood to the desired dimensions for the hull .

It is important to sand the edges of the plywood in order to achieve a smooth finish . Next, apply wood glue along the edges and join the pieces together to form the hull . While the glue is drying, use clamps to hold the pieces in place.

To reinforce the hull , add epoxy resin to the joints. Once the entire hull is dry, sand it down for a polished look. For added protection, apply a primer . Paint the hull with the desired color using marine-grade paint for water resistance.

It is important to note that the hull plays a vital role in the stability and performance of a sailboat on the water.

2. Attaching the Mast and Sails

To successfully attach the mast and sails to your miniature sailboat, simply follow these steps:

1. Begin by preparing the mast, ensuring it is clean and free from any debris or imperfections.

2. Carefully position the mast in the designated area on the hull, making sure it is properly aligned.

3. Secure the mast to the hull using either adhesive or small screws, ensuring a stable attachment.

4. Attach the sails by positioning them on the mast and securing them with small strings or ropes.

5. To improve the catchability of the wind, adjust the tension of the strings or ropes to properly tighten the sails.

6. Test the attachment by gently moving the sailboat to ensure the mast and sails are securely attached. Make any necessary adjustments for stability.

7. Check that the sails can move freely and are not obstructed by the mast or any other parts of the sailboat.

By following these steps, you will achieve a secure attachment of the mast and sails to your miniature sailboat . This is crucial for optimal performance and the enjoyment of your sailing experience.

3. Adding Rigging and Accessories

Adding Rigging and Accessories

When adding rigging and accessorizing your miniature sailboat , you should follow these steps:

1. Begin by attaching the mast to the hull using either glue or screws.

2. Next, secure the sails to the mast using small clips or ties.

3. Then, add the rigging lines by tying them to specific locations on both the mast and hull. These lines play a vital role in controlling the movement and positioning of the sails.

4. Attach smaller accessories, such as life rings or flags , to the boat using either adhesive or small hooks.

To ensure optimal results, make sure that the rigging lines are tight and the accessories are securely fastened. This will help prevent any accidental detachment while in use.

If you want to enhance the overall appearance of your mini sailboat, you can consider using colorful and eye-catching accessories. You can also experiment with various types of rigging materials, such as thread or thin wire , to achieve different visual effects.

Painting and Finishing Touches

Give your miniature sailboat the perfect finishing touches with the section on painting and finishing . From sanding and priming to applying paint and varnish, we’ll cover all the steps you need to know. Plus, we’ll show you how to add those final details and decorations that will truly make your sailboat shine. Get ready to transform your creation into a masterpiece that will impress all who see it.

1. Sanding and Priming

When sanding and priming a miniature sailboat, it is important to follow these steps:

1. Prepare the surface: Start by cleaning the hull with a damp cloth to effectively remove dust and debris.

2. Sand the hull: Take a gentle approach and sand the entire hull using fine-grit sandpaper in a circular motion.

3. Remove any sanding residue: After sanding, it’s crucial to wipe away any residue or dust with a clean, dry cloth.

4. Apply the primer: To ensure a smooth surface, use either a small paintbrush or foam brush to apply a thin, even coat of primer to the hull. Make sure to cover the entire surface area and allow the primer to dry completely.

5. Sand the primer: Once the primer is dry, lightly sand it using fine-grit sandpaper. This step will help smooth out any imperfections.

6. Remove any sanding residue: Eliminate any remaining residue or dust by using a clean, dry cloth.

By following these steps, you will ensure that the hull of your miniature sailboat is properly sanded and primed, creating a smooth surface for painting.

2. Applying Paint and Varnish

To apply paint and varnish to a miniature sailboat , follow these steps:

1. Sand the surface to remove imperfections and create a smooth, even surface.

2. Apply primer to the hull and other parts of the sailboat. This helps the paint adhere better and provides a good base for the colors.

3. Choose the colors you want and apply them using a small brush or airbrush. Start with the base color and let it dry before adding additional colors or details.

4. Once the paint is dry , apply varnish to protect the paint and give it a glossy finish. Use a brush or spray varnish, following the product instructions for application.

5. Allow the varnish to dry completely before handling the miniature sailboat or adding any additional details.

Pro-tip: When painting a miniature sailboat, use thin coats of paint and varnish for smooth, even coverage. Work in a well-ventilated area to prevent fumes. Remember to clean brushes thoroughly after each use to maintain their quality for future projects.

3. Adding Details and Decorations

– First , gather all the necessary materials for adding details and decorations to your miniature sailboat. This can include flags, stickers, miniature figures, or decorative ropes.

– Next , consider where you want to place these decorations on your sailboat. Popular areas include the hull, mast, and sails.

– Carefully attach each decoration using an appropriate adhesive, ensuring that they are securely in place.

– Use small paintbrushes to add intricate details or accents , such as patterns or designs, to the flags, figures, or other decorative elements.

– To protect the decorations and give them a glossy finish, apply a coat of varnish or sealant. This will also keep them from getting damaged over time.

– Take a moment to inspect the added details and decorations , making any necessary adjustments to improve their overall appearance.

– Be patient and allow ample time for the glue, paint, and varnish to dry completely before moving or handling the miniature sailboat.

Testing and Setting Sail

As we delve into the thrilling section of “ Testing and Setting Sail ” in our article on “ How To Make A Miniature Sailboat ,” get ready to embark on an exciting adventure. We’ll explore the essential steps in this process, including preparing for launch , selecting the right conditions , and monitoring and adjusting the sailboat. So, hold onto your hats and let’s navigate the waters of sailboat testing together!

1. Preparing for Launch

To effectively prepare for the launch of a miniature sailboat, it is important to follow these steps:

1. Assess the weather conditions: Before launching, it is crucial to check the weather forecast. Look out for calm winds and clear skies, as this will ensure smooth sailing and minimize any accidents.

2. Position the boat properly: Ensure that the sailboat is placed in a clear area, away from rocks or other boats. This will provide enough space for maneuverability.

3. Secure the mast and sails: Double-check that the mast and sails are securely attached. This is essential for effective wind-catching and to ensure a smooth sailing experience.

4. Inspect the rigging and accessories: Take the time to examine the rigging and accessories, such as ropes, pulleys, and hooks. Make sure they are in good condition and properly connected to prevent any mishaps or malfunctions.

5. Conduct a final safety check: Before launching, perform a thorough safety check. Confirm that all necessary safety equipment, including life jackets and flotation devices, are on board and easily accessible.

6. Position the sailboat in the water: Carefully place the sailboat in the water, ensuring that it floats steadily. Avoid any sudden movements or excessive force during this process.

7. Adjust the sails: Based on the wind conditions, adjust the sails accordingly. Raise and trim them for optimal performance and speed.

8. Launch the sailboat: Release the sailboat into the water gently, either by pushing it or releasing it from a docking position. Observe its movement and make any necessary adjustments for a successful launch.

By following these steps, you can effectively prepare your miniature sailboat for a successful launch and enjoy a pleasant sailing experience.

2. Selecting the Right Conditions

Selecting the Right Conditions

When setting sail with your miniature sailboat , it is crucial to select the right conditions. Here are a few key steps to follow:

1. Analyze wind patterns and carefully choose a location that offers consistent and steady wind direction. By doing so, you can ensure smoother sailing and a more enjoyable experience.

2. Before embarking on your sailboat adventure, make sure to check the weather forecast. Avoid sailing on days when strong winds, storms, or unfavorable conditions are expected. This will help you steer clear of potential risks and hazards.

3. Look for calm waters with gentle waves for optimal stability and maneuverability. Avoid areas known for strong currents, rapids, or turbulent waters as they can greatly affect your sailboat’s performance.

4. It is important to select a location that provides ample space for your sailboat to navigate freely. Avoid crowded areas to minimize the risk of collisions and enhance your overall safety.

5. Opt for a location with good visibility to easily keep an eye on your sailboat. Avoid areas with dense fog, limited visibility, or high traffic, as they can hinder your ability to navigate effectively.

By diligently following these steps and carefully selecting the right conditions, you can have a safe and enjoyable sailing experience with your miniature sailboat .

3. Monitoring and Adjusting the Sailboat

Monitoring and adjusting the sailboat is crucial for optimal performance on the water. By following these steps, you can ensure that your miniature sailboat is in top condition:

Regularly check the balance of your sailboat to make sure it is evenly weighted and not leaning to one side. This will help maximize its performance.

Observe the wind direction and any changes in speed. Adjust the sails accordingly to harness the power of the wind effectively.

Monitor the position of the rudder to control the sailboat’s direction. Make small adjustments as needed to stay on course.

Pay close attention to the water conditions. If the waters are rough or choppy, you may need to make adjustments to the rigging or sails. It is important to ensure that everything is secure and properly adjusted for safe navigation.

Continuously monitor the sailboat’s speed and be ready to make changes to the sails or rigging to either increase or decrease speed as desired.

It is essential to take note of any issues or malfunctions that may arise. Address problems such as loose lines or a broken mast before continuing your sailing adventure.

By following these steps , you can effectively monitor and adjust your miniature sailboat , providing you with a successful and enjoyable sailing experience.

Troubleshooting and Maintenance

Looking to keep your miniature sailboat seaworthy? In this section, we’ll tackle troubleshooting and maintenance to ensure smooth sailing. From addressing balance and stability issues to repairing damages and wear, we’ve got you covered. Plus, we’ll reveal tips for keeping your sailboat shipshape through proper cleaning and storage practices. Get ready to take charge of your miniature vessel’s longevity and performance!

1. Handling Balance and Stability Issues

Handling Balance and Stability Issues

To effectively handle balance and stability issues in a miniature sailboat, it is important to follow these steps:

1. Check the alignment of the keel and rudder to ensure that the keel is securely in place and that the rudder is properly aligned with the centerline of the boat.

2. Adjust the position of the mast by moving it either forward or backward in order to determine the ideal balance point. Moving the mast forward will increase weather helm , while moving it backward will increase lee helm .

3. Modify the shape of the sail by adjusting the tension on the halyard and cunningham lines in order to control the sail draft. A flatter sail shape can help reduce heeling and improve stability.

4. Trim the sails by making small adjustments to the main and jib sheets in order to achieve proper sail trim. Over-trimming the sails can lead to excessive heeling, while under-trimming can result in poor performance.

5. If the boat continues to be unstable even after making adjustments, consider adding small weights to the keel or hull. This can help lower the boat’s center of gravity and enhance stability.

Pro-tip: Achieving the perfect balance and stability in a miniature sailboat may require some trial and error. Experiment with different adjustments and take note of their effects on the boat’s performance.

2. Repairing Damages and Wear

When repairing damages and wear on a miniature sailboat , follow these steps for proper maintenance and longevity:

1. Identify the damage: Inspect the sailboat for cracks, scratches, or broken parts.

2. Gather necessary tools and materials: Prepare epoxy resin, sandpaper, paint, and replacement parts if needed.

3. Prepare the damaged area: Clean and remove debris, using sandpaper to create a suitable surface.

4. Repair the damage: Apply epoxy resin according to the manufacturer’s instructions, ensuring a secure bond.

5. Sand and paint: After the repair has cured, sand the area for a smooth finish. Use matching paint for a seamless appearance.

6. Inspect and test: Carefully check for any remaining damages and test the sailboat’s functionality.

7. Maintain regularly: Clean and maintain the sailboat regularly to prevent further wear and damage.

By following these steps, you can effectively repair damages and wear on your miniature sailboat , ensuring its continued functionality and enjoyment. Proper maintenance is key to prolonging the life of your sailboat and ensuring many happy sailing adventures.

3. Cleaning and Proper Storage

To ensure the longevity and enjoyment of your miniature sailboat, it is essential to follow these steps for cleaning and proper storage:

1. Begin by rinsing the sailboat with freshwater immediately after sailing. This will effectively remove saltwater and debris.

2. Allow the sailboat to thoroughly air dry before storing it. This step is crucial in preventing the growth of mold or mildew.

3. When cleaning the hull, gently scrub away any dirt or stains using mild soap and water. Rinse with freshwater to ensure a thorough clean.

4. Carefully remove the sails and inspect them for any dirt or damage. Clean the sails using mild soap and water, making sure to rinse them thoroughly. It is important to allow the sails to completely dry before storing them.

5. Take the time to check the rigging for any signs of wear or damage. Use a damp cloth to remove any dirt or grime that may have accumulated.

6. Find a secure, temperature-controlled storage area that is dry. This will protect the sailboat from potential damage. Ideally, store the sailboat on a rack or shelf to avoid placing unnecessary pressure on the hull.

By following these cleaning and proper storage practices, you can extend the lifespan of your miniature sailboat and enjoy it for years to come.

Some Facts About How To Make A Miniature Sailboat:

• ✅ Making a miniature sailboat requires basic woodworking skills. (Source: SailChecker)
• ✅ There are many online tutorials and videos available that provide step-by-step instructions on making a miniature sailboat. (Source: The Spruce Crafts)
• ✅ The materials needed to make a miniature sailboat include wood, glue, paint, and fabric for the sail. (Source: Model Boat Builder)
• ✅ Miniature sailboats can be made in various sizes, from small tabletop models to larger display pieces. (Source: Model Yachting)
• ✅ Building a miniature sailboat is a fun and creative project that can be enjoyed by people of all ages. (Source: The Artful Parent)

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The Model Shipwright

How to build first-class ship models from kits or from scratch using actual ship plans, free downloadable high-resolution ship plans, starting point for scratch-built ship model building.

All the the plans offered on The Model Shipwright  and The Model Shipwright blog are available on this site in high-resolution files. The images on the blog posting are linked directly to the page here with the downloadable files, or you can search from this page by ship type, ship name, or the historical period in which it was built. We put a lot of work in tracking down these plans, and in some cases digitized them ourselves and put in time cleaning up and repairing the images to make them more useful. Feel free to use them for your modeling projects, but please don’t just take them to repost on your site. We have digitally watermarked them to identify them as coming from this site.

Motor Vessels Ships for which the primary motive of propulsion is an engine

Sailing Vessels

Vessels for which the primary motive of propulsion is sails

Oar-powered Vessels

Vessels for which the primary motive of propulsion is rowing

Coast Guard Vessels

We offer plans of U.S. Coast Guard vessels ranging from early sailing cutters of the revenue service to modern motor vessels such as the buoy tender White Sumac.

Ships whose primary purpose is warfare are cross referenced on this page, whether motor, sail, or oar-powered vessels

Cargo Ships

Ships whose primary purpose is cargo transport are cross referenced on this page, whether motor, sail, or oar-powered vessels

Utility Vessels

Ships whose primary purpose is to serve the maritime industry, such as pilot vessels, tugboats, or lighters are cross referenced on this page, whether motor, sail, or oar-powered vessels

14 comments

How detailed are your plans? Can you email me one page showing it?

You can download the plans directly from the website. Go to the page of plans you want, and left-click on the plan image to open the image file. Then right-click on the image and choose “save image as” to download it to your computer. The plans can be opened with any image-editing or preview software. Save it to a removable drive and you can take the drive to a local copy shop to be printed on their large-format printer.

Do you accept donated paper plans? I may thin out my collection.

Send us a message on our contact page, we’re always looking for submissions!

WAGB -10 or WAGB-11 Looking for plans. Can anyone help? Thx

I have a set of some 200+ plans for WAGB-10, what are you looking for?

I am looking for drawings of below main deck layouts of 1700-1800 “Man of War” ships. Do you have any?

Check out our page on the French Man of War Montebello It has several views of the below decks.

does anyone know where I could get plans for a VLCC oil tanker /?

I have some GA plans for some tankers, what are you looking for?

I am looking for the typical or average hull ratios: beam/lenght, beam/keel, beam/depth, beam/draught, tonnage, displacement, and burthen of the various types of Ships during the age of sail. Any recomendations?

One of the best experts on the subject was Howard Chapelle. He probably answers the question in one of his many books on sailing ships. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Howard_I._Chapelle

[…] Ship Plans […]

Anyone know of a source for plans for the Steamer Eastland, that capsized in the Chicago River in 1915?

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Model Boat Hull Construction

The carved block method, part one. model boat hull construction made easy – a step-by-step instruction how to build a wooden boat model hull from a solid block. the method described is common for ship model kits and scratch building..

Building a model boat hull using the carved solid block method can seem intimidating at first. It shouldn’t be though - if being methodical there is no reason a first attempt will not turn out as good as any.

The carved block model boat hull construction is best used for:

• Static ship models - up to 600mm (24 inches) long
• Making a pattern for resin or fiberglass hulls
• Making ship's boats ("life boats")

This method has disadvantages, such as:

• Hulls may crack - The risk is increased with large cross sections and the use of inproperly seasoned lumber.
• Limited use if natural wood finish is desired. This would require planking after the carving process is completed.

You'll need:

• A hull plan in the right scale with deck plan, profile and cross sections. It helps if the stations (where the cross sections are located along the hull) are marked on the other two views.
• A piece of wood as described below.
• Hand Tools: Carving tools, files, sandpaper. Hand plane if you are prepping your own wood block. A hand saw* of some kind to roughly shape the ends of the wood block.
• Drafting tools: Pencil, square and scale.
• Also helpful tools: A bandsaw is a good help, but not essential. *If you have access to one, you won't need the hand saw above.

Step 1: Select Model Boat Hull Material

Most model ship hulls built with this methods are made from either mahogany or basswood (linden in Europe), but there are many other suitable wood species, such as poplar and alder. For beginners, I’d recommend basswood or poplar because they are easy to carve and inexpensive.

For experienced woodworkers there is no reason cherry or walnut could not be used. If you have a favorite wood or a perfect scrap piece, you may as well use it.

The type of wood can always be negotiated as long as it is stable . I find it more important to select properly seasoned lumber, free of knots and pitch pockets.

Lumber I wouldn't use include oak, American beech, birch, hard maple, and exotic species like rosewood, teak, purpleheart and bloodwood. These species are hard to work with hand tools and dull edges quickly when carving.

This method is best used for models under two feet in length and under 6-8 inches wide. This off course is a loose rule that will vary with ship type etc. If you want to go bigger, consider the bread-and-butter method (also known as the laminated method) for saving in material and weight.

Step 2: Preparing the Wooden Block

Make sure the block is squared up, i.e. the long sides are square and parallel to each other and that the block is a quarter to half an inch longer than the finished hull (6-12mm).

With a pencil, mark a centerline down the middle of the block. An alternative way to achieve this is by gluing up two boards where the joint will become the center line. This works great as long as the boards are straight, without twist and properly surfaced before gluing.

Step 3: Mark the Stations, Profile and Deck outline

With a square to guide you, measure out and mark the stations. Photocopy or trace out the profile and deck outline onto separate pieces of paper. Cut them out with scissors to form templates.

Line up the deck template symmetrically on the centerline and align with the stations. Trace the deck outline with a pencil onto the block. Follow the same method for the profile template.

Step 4: Cut out Profile and Deck outline

A band saw will make your life a lot easier in this step, but are not essential. Begin by cutting out the profile. Then cut the deck outline.

Then cut the deck outline. Notice how the stations you so carefully marked got cut away. Use the square and pencil them in again.

Step 5: Make Station Templates

These are best made by photocopying or printing out the body sections onto card stock and then carefully cutting out with an X-acto knife.

Be sure to mark the water line and deck line. By making the template upper edge level with the deck line, you'll kill two birds with one stone. It’s also a good idea to put the station number on each so you can identify them easier.

Continue the Article Series Below

Part Two - shaping the hull and deck

Part Three - fitting keel, stem, sternpost and rudder

Part Four - planking the deck and fitting gunwales

Return from Carved Model Boat Hull to Hull Design

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Guide to masts, yards & booms on model ships.

• Updated on: 18th January 2021
• Written by Gary Renshaw

In this post we will be considering the various masts and yards used on a wooden period model ship and their fittings. We will also examine techniques to taper the masts and yards.

It is important to construct the masts and yards and attach all the associated fittings to your model. This will make the whole assembly process easier. 

The masts on smaller vessels were one piece or made up of two sections the lower mast and the topmast. In larger vessels, the masts were made up of three sections— lower mast, topmast and topgallant mast.

On real ships, the masts were made from multiple pieces of timber that were shaped to be interlocked together which provided great strength in the mast. 

In modelling, the different mast sections are made from a single length of dowel. The dowel commonly used for masts and yards is usually either Ramin, birch, walnut or mahogany. 

Where the respective mast sections are joined caps and cross trees and trestles are used the attach the mast sections together. 

The lower mast rose to the trestle trees and cross trees on which was mounted the top. The top was a platform for various gear on which the crew worked. The trestle trees supported the heel of the topmast which rose through the cap of the lower mast. 

The section where the lower mast and the top mast overlapped was called the doublings.

Above the topmast was rigged the topgallant mast. For larger vessels the next higher mast was the royal mast, then the sky sail mast and finally, for the largest of 19th century ships was the moon sail mast. 

In this chapter, we will limit our discussion to the three masts presented in Figure 1. 

The front and side elevations of the mast sections are identified in Figure 1.

It is most important to assemble the masts and fit all eye pins and blocks before fixing the mast to the model. The location of all eye pins and blocks on the masts will be presented on the plans in the kit. 

Each of the parts is presented in more detail below.

Mast Structures

Trestle trees & cross trees.

Trestle trees are two strong bars of timber fixed horizontally fore-and-aft on each side of the lower masthead, to support the topmast, lower cross-trees, and mast top. Smaller trestle trees are fitted on the topmast head to support the topgallant mast and topmast cross-trees.

The Cap was a strong thick block of wood with two large holes through it, one square and the other round. The cap was used to confine two masts together when one is erected at the head of the other in order to lengthen it.

Mast cheeks were fitted fore-and-aft either side of the lower masthead. The trestle trees rested on the top of the mast cheeks.

Wooldlings  

Woodlings were iron hoops or heavy rope lashings to reinforce the mast.

Strengtheners (or fish)  

Strengtheners were lengths of timber lashed to three sides of the mast to give added strength and flexibility to the mast. 

Masts on Vessels

Sailing vessels had from one to several masts. Generally though the wooden model ship kits you will most commonly encounter will one, two or three masts. The bowsprit on a vessel is another form of mast projecting out from the bow of the vessel. Bowsprits will be dealt with separately later in this chapter. For a vessel with one mast the mast was simply called the Mast

For a vessel with two masts—starting from the bow they are called Fore Mast and Main Mast. The main mast is always the taller.

For a vessel with three masts—starting from the bow they are called Fore Mast, Main Mast and Mizzen Mast. The mizzen mast is always the shortest mast.

The bowsprit on a vessel is another form of mast projecting almost horizontally out from the bow. On small vessels the bowsprit was a single length of timber. On larger vessels there were extensions to the bowsprit called the jib-boom and flying jib-boom. The various extensions to the bowsprit were joined by a cap and rope gammoning.

The bowsprit was used to support a range of rigging which will be discussed in the Rigging chapter.

On some vessels a small yard called the Spritsail Yard was attached to the underside of the bowsprit.

Also on some vessels a short gaff-shaped spar is fixed perpendicularly under the cap of the bowsprit. This is called the Martingale or Dolphin Striker. It is used to guy the jib-boom in place.

Yard Identification

A yard is a long cylindrical length of timber suspended from the mast of a vessel to spread a sail.

The yards were named according to where they were attached to the mast. For example:

• The yard attached to the lower mast was named the Yard.
• The yard attached to the top mast was named the Top Yard.
• The yard attached to the topgallant mast was named the Topgallant Yard.
• For larger vessels the higher yards were named accordingly.

Then the yards were further named according to the mast to which they were attached. For example the yards on the foremast of the vessel in Photo 5 were named Fore Yard, Fore Top Yard and Fore Topgallant Yard.

Yards on the main mast were named Main Yard, Main Top Yard and Main Topgallant Yard.

A yard was fitted with a range of parts. These are presented in Figure 5 along with their respective purpose.

Block: Used as part of running rigging to adjust the angle of the yard.

Jeer Blocks: Larger blocks used to raise the yard. Smaller yards may have one block.

Pendant & Block: Used as part of the running rigging to adjust the angle of the yard.

Foot Rope Stirrup & Foot Rope: Stirrup used to support the foot rope. Sailors would use the foot rope for support as they moved along the yard to furl or unfurl the sail. The foot ropes were always left slack.

Studding sail yard Studding sail yard: Used to extend beyond the yard end and have the studding sails attached. Studding sails were used in fair weather to add additional sail area to the vessel.

Refer to your kit plans to determine the dowel size and length for each yard. Shape accordingly and fit all the parts to each mast.

Boom and Gaff

The boom and gaff replace yards on fore-and-aft rigged sails. For a schooner, the boom and gaff hold the fore and mainsails. For a square rigged vessel the boom and gaff support the driver sail.

The boom and gaff are often tapered at one end only. The boom and gaff are secured to the mast by a yoke. The jaw of the yoke encircles approximately half the circumference of the mast and are secured by the use of parrel beads tied at each end of the yoke jaws.

Tapering Masts, Yards and Booms 

In a wooden model ship kit you will be supplied with dowels of various diameter to make these parts. The dowel commonly used for masts and yards is usually either, ramin, birch, walnut or mahogany.

Check your dowels for straightness . Sometimes you may find a length of dowel has warped in which case it will need to be replaced.

In your set of kit plans you will find drawings with all the dimensions for the respective lengths of masts and yards. Be careful with these drawings as sometimes they are not to scale. The drawings will always identify the name of the item, its length and the relevant diameter at each end.

The dowels in a kit are very rarely pre-cut to their required lengths. So It is most important that for a particular diameter dowel you identify all the items that have to be cut from the lengths provided in the kit. Sometimes in a kit you will have more than one length of dowel of the same diameter but it will be of different lengths. If you are not careful when cutting your mast or yard lengths from this diameter dowel you may find yourself short. To avoid the chance of this happening use a pencil to mark out on the dowel the lengths to be cut. Only when you are sure you will be able to make all the parts required from the stock of dowel supplied will you then cut your dowel lengths.

The masts and yards have to be tapered. There are a number of ways to taper the masts and yards

The ideal way to taper the dowels is to use a lathe. This however is an expensive option. If you do choose to use a lathe it is most important to follow the lathe manufacturer’s safety instructions at all times, wear a safety face mask or safety glasses, ear protection and make sure any long hair is tied safely back and loose clothing is made secure.

A less expensive alternative to the lathe is to use a variable speed pistol drill placed in a bench vice. Make sure to set the drill speed at mid-range. The same lathe safety principles apply to using this method. 

When using a lathe to taper your dowels first use a flat file followed by medium grade sandpaper. Continually stop the lathe and use a vernier caliper to take measurements . Use the sandpaper to make fine adjustments to the required diameter. Finally use a fine grade sandpaper to finish off the dowel.

A simple and cost effective way to taper the dowels is to use a mini plane. By continually applying the plane to the dowel to create a number of flat sides and then using a coarse sandpaper to finish the tapering an excellent job can be achieved. Continually checking the diameter with a vernier calliper and finishing off with a fine grade sandpaper will ensure the correct diameters are achieved.

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How to Build a Wood Sailboat

Introduction: How to Build a Wood Sailboat

I've been wanting to combine my two favorite hobbies - woodworking and sailing for a long time, so I thought I'd build a boat. It's got classic lines and looks so dazzling in the sunshine that people constantly stop me at the boat ramp to ask me about it. There's something unbelievably rewarding about building something like this from scratch. This is definitely a boat that is much better built than bought . Here's how I did it.

The boat takes about 100 hours to build. I did it over 3 months, working a little bit just about every day and full days when my schedule permitted.

It will take about $1,000 in total to build if you buy everything at full retail cost (not including tools you might need to buy), but you can spread that across the length of the project. For example, you only need to buy one $30 sheet of plywood at a time, take it home, draw out the parts (loft) that fit on just that sheet and cut them out. That will take a couple of hours right there. Some boating supply stores (chandleries) might let you setup an account which might give you a discount if you tell them you're building a boat.

All of the skills needed to build a sailboat can be learned slowly, one step at a time. For example, if you've never fiber-glassed plywood before, just practice on a small piece first to get your confidence up. This was my first boat build, so I did a lot of learn as you go . Not only am I going to show you the right way to successfully build your own sailboat, but I'm going to share with you the mistakes I made along the way to hopefully save you from repeating them.

The end result will be a very attractive little 8 foot long pram, that is easily made out of 4x8 sheets of plywood that is light enough to put in the back of a small pickup truck or roll down to the local lake on the optional dolly. Anything longer would require you to either make a scarf joint (which is a bit tricky) or buy longer sheets of plywood (which is considerably more expensive).

What you will need:

Boat building plans

8 panels of 1/4" oak plywood 4'x8'

Pencil, Sharpie, ruler, tape measure, yard stick, etc.

Long flexible straight edge

Box of 1" brad nails

2 gallons of epoxy resin

1 gallon of epoxy hardener - SLOW

1 quart silica thickener

5 quarts wood flour thickener

1" masking tape

Japanese pull-saw

Table saw (helps, but optional)

Round-over router bit

Flush trim router bit

Palm/random orbital sander

220 sanding discs

Combination square

Drill bit set

Drill bit extension

Basic hand tools

Small diameter wire or zip ties

Wire cutter

12 C-clamps - 3"

Mixing cups, mixing sticks, rubber/nitrile gloves

16' x 60" of 6oz fiberglass cloth

2" plastic spreader

Gallon of waterproof glue

Glue roller

Silicone bronze screws

Stainless steel fasteners

Small blocks

Gudgeon & pintle - dinghy size

Patience - large

Elbow grease - large

For more detailed explanations on each step and more specific info/reviews on the materials and parts used, check out my boat build blog: www.Midnight-Maker.com

Step 1: Cutting Out the Parts...

First, you'll need boat building plans. I purchased some very nice ones from a popular boat building website because I had a specific style in mind to build, a "pram". It's a Norwegian design with lots of buoyancy in the bow and building a pointy boat is a little more difficult. There are a bunch of free boat building plans (search "dinghy") online. Also, I wanted my boat parts to fit in a standard (read cheap) 4'x8' sheet of plywood. It also had to be light enough for me to load/unload/move myself. This boat weighs in at about 70 pounds. When on the custom dolly I built, it's very easy to move from the parking lot to the lake.

Next, you'll need to draw out the parts of the boat full-sized onto the plywood (lofting). I actually did this step on hardboard/masonite because I wanted to make templates of all the parts in case I ever wanted to build another one.

This step requires you to be very meticulous. Carefully transfer the measurements (offsets). They may or may not look correct because it's very non-intuitive to look at curved boat parts that are laying flat. Some parts actually bend the opposite way you think they should. To make the curves, I nailed a bunch of 1" brads into the panel and used a long, flexible straight edge (yard stick, etc.) bent to follow the curve, then I traced the curve with pencil/Sharpie. Once I removed the brads, I had perfectly smooth curves. Keep in mind that with the side panels that are symmetrical to both sides of the boat, only draw out one version and cut two stacked sheets at a time. This ensures the boat will not be lop-sided. Make sure to immobilize the two sheets together with screws outside of the boat parts or use double-sided tape/clamps, etc. to keep the parts registered properly.

Using a Japanese pull-saw allows you to control the cuts very carefully and it can follow the graceful curves. They cut on the pull stroke which means they're very easy to control. Make sure you leave a bit of your cut line, meaning cut just outside the line. This allows you a bit of a safety margin and you can always sand to the line to sweeten it up. This is where the elbow grease really kicks in. It takes hours to cut out the hull panels by hand, but it's worth it. I tried cutting the first part out with the jigsaw and it wandered all over the place and quickly cut inside the line before I knew it. Also, a jig saw blade can lean to one side which could mean two panels might not be the exact same shape. Using hand tools is a classic way to do woodworking and is a very gratifying process. With hand tools, things happen slow enough for you to be in total control, whereas power tools can quickly do unexpected damage. With the understanding that you're building a classic boat, using hand tools wherever possible is part of the philosophy.

The plans I bought were in metric and called for 6mm (1/4") and 9mm (3/8") plywood, but I wanted to make everything out of 1/4" plywood so the thicker parts in the plans were glued together with two layers of 1/4" (so at 1/2" they were a bit thicker than designed). I actually liked this because it made the boat feel sturdier and of course it was cheaper that way. The trade-off was that the boat would be a bit heavier.

For any of the parts that need to be doubled-up/laminated (e.g. the transoms), now is a good time to do that. Make sure you use "waterproof" glue instead of "weatherproof" glue like I did...

Spread a thin layer of glue over one of the "bad" sides (plywood usually has a good side and a bad side, glue bad sides together so good sides show on both outside faces), making sure it's completely covered (I used a special glue roller), then carefully place the other half on top. Align all of the edges together, then clamp them in place. Now put heavy things carefully on top to press the parts together. The glue should be dry in about 6 hours.

NOTE: It's considerably easier and safer to do any woodworking processes to the parts before you assemble the boat. This way, you can safely clamp pieces to the work bench and cut out handle holes, etc. Since my boat is a "lapstrake" design, I had to route a rabbet (groove located on the edge) carefully on the bottom edge of each side panel. This creates a shoulder for the parts to sit on, positively locating them while you're stitching the panels together. Likewise, the grab handles in the transoms are much easier to cut out before putting the boat together.

Also keep in mind that any mistake will be considerably more painful the further you are along in the build. For example, if I biff cutting out the grab handle holes while they're just loose pieces rather than when they're a permanent part of the boat, it's much easier to recover - just make another transom. If you had to patch a hole in the boat, it would be difficult and possibly never look perfect. No pressure...

Step 2: Assembling the Hull...

Once you have the bottom and sides cut out, you can start to "stitch and glue" the hull together. This is a technique used usually for smaller boats to be able to pull the hull form together without the need to build a frame or mold (which can take almost as long and as much wood as the boat itself).

I built a gauge stick to make sure my holes were perfectly spaced at 4" at 1/2" in from the plywood edge. It was 1" wide so either edge was the required 1/2" from the centerline. I worked my way down one side of each of each mated seam and drilled all those holes at once while the panels could lay flat on the bench. Make sure to use a backer block to prevent tear out on the back side, even with such a small drill bit.

With one mating panel drilled with a 1/16" drill bit, hold the mating panel in it's relative position. I used some spare twine to wrangle my panels into the proper orientation as I was marking them. Make a pencil mark where the mating hole should be, remove the pre-drilled panel and drill the second set of holes 1/2" in from the edge. This makes sure there's enough strength to hold the boat together.

The first pass on the stitches is just to get the hull together structurally. You can always go back and make the stitches fancier/tighter and tweak the position of the panels.

The stitches go from the inside out. Cut 6" lengths of wire and bend them into long, narrow U's that are the width of the distance between the holes. Stick the ends through the holes and carefully twist the tails together on the outside of the hull, making sure not to damage the plywood. If you're using zip ties, then the holes you drill will need to be bigger and you'll have to start on the outside, go in, turn around, then back out, then "zip".

Make sure your panels' rabbet shoulders are resting securely on the mating panel and carefully tighten all the stitches. For my boat, once I had two panels stitched to the bottom panel on each side, it was time to attach the transoms (ends). Once all of the exterior parts are stitched together, you should have something that looks like a boat. It will be a little rickety at this stage, but that's okay.

NOTE: In the photos I took of my build, you'll notice that the transom doublers (reinforcers) aren't in place. That was because I was following the instruction manual, but I think that was a mistake, so I highly recommend laminating (gluing) the doublers to the transoms before you stitch the boat together.

Step 3: Reinforcing the Hull Joints...

Now that the hull is stitched together, flip it over upside down. You'll be surprised at how stiff it is, considering how difficult it was to wrangle all those panels into position. Be careful, there's lots of poky wire ends sticking out all over the place.

I used a technique called "tabbing", meaning I made small, structural tabs from thickened epoxy that fit between the stitches, then I removed the stitches and made one long, larger fillet to connect the hull panels together.

Make sure your panels are perfectly aligned and tightened. I used a nipper to lop off most of the tails so they wouldn't get in the way, but that left very sharp spikes.

Make sure your boat is square. Take diagonal measurements from corner to corner, make sure the boat parts are parallel to each other, etc. because if there's a twist in your boat, the next step will make it permanent, which will affect the boat's performance.

Now mix up a batch of epoxy and silica thickener according to the manufacturer's directions (meaning each type of epoxy has a different resin to hardener ratio) until it's between the consistency of thick ketchup, but runnier than peanut butter (make sure to mix the 2 parts of epoxy together first very well before adding a thickener). Too thick and it won't fill the void, too thin and it'll run down inside the boat. Both are bad. I used a small syringe to inject the mix into the V intersection between the panels and checked underneath/inside to see if there were any runs.

Once the epoxy has partially set, use a glove wet with denatured alcohol to smooth out the "tabs" so they fit inside the V groove and don't extend above the intersection between the panels. This will give you good practice for the seams that will show on the finished boat. Be careful of the wire spikes.

Repeat this process for every seam on the hull. Let it cure overnight.

Once the tabs have cured, carefully remove the stitches. If the wire seems to be epoxied permanently to the hull, heat the wire with a lighter. That will soften the epoxy enough to pull the wire out. Be careful not to scorch the boat (you don't want a Viking funeral). Now repeat the thickened epoxy process for each overlap, except this time each seam will need to be one long, smooth joint. Let it cure overnight. This goes a long way in making the boat hull structural.

Step 4: ​Fiberglassing the Hull...

Now that you've got a permanent hull shape, it's time to make it waterproof and rugged. Fiberglass and resin over plywood is a tried and true Do It Yourself boat building technique which makes it strong and light.

Mask off the bottom panel and roll out your fiberglass cloth. Smooth the cloth out very carefully so as not to snag or tweak the fibers' orientation. Mix up an unthickened batch of epoxy (it will be the consistency of syrup). Starting at the stern, pour a small puddle of epoxy and spread it out nice and thin. You should be able to squeeze most of the epoxy out of the cloth, leaving only saturated cloth with no dry spots (which will appear white) but the weave should still be showing (meaning no extra epoxy is pooling). You should easily be able to see the wood grain through the cloth now.

Let the epoxy partially cure and using a razor, slice the dry fiberglass cloth away on the taped seam. Then remove the masking tape. Let the epoxy cure overnight.

Flip the hull over and mix up a batch of epoxy that is the consistency of peanut butter. I masked off the joint, but this step is optional, but keep in mind that it will be visible if you plan on finishing the interior bright (varnished wood). It's not as critical if you're painting the interior. With a plastic spreader, carefully make a large radius transition (fillet) between the bottom panel and the first side panel (garboard). Remove the masking tape when the epoxy mixture is partially cured and carefully scrape/wipe any unwanted mixture. It's much easier to remove now than having to sand it all off later. At this point, it's also a good time to fillet the transoms to the sides using 3/4" radius tabs between stitches and 1" finished fillets after you've removed the stitches. Let the fillets cure overnight.

Now, repeat the entire fiberglassing process on the inside. Except instead of just doing the bottom panel, make sure both the bottom and the garboard are fiberglassed. This is basically the waterline of the boat. The fillet should allow the fiberglass cloth to smoothly make the bend between boards. Remove the excess cloth when partially cured and let sit overnight. Some people fiberglass up onto the transom at this stage which will make the boat stronger, but that means you have to have already filleted the transoms to the bottom.

Step 5: Installing Interior Parts...

The bulkheads get stitched in place just like the panels. They will make the already stiff (and much heavier boat) completely structurally sound and push/pull the sides into their final shape. Then make 3/4" "tab" fillets between the stitches to lock them in place, remove the stitches and make long, smooth 1" fillets. The smaller fillets will get covered by the larger fillets. I used two different modified plastic spreaders to do this step. Each spreader was cut with a box knife and filed/sanded into its final shape.

While you're doing the previous steps, if you're in a time crunch, go ahead and build the daggerboard trunk. It's made of numerous parts that are pre-coated with a couple layers of unthickened epoxy, then glued together with silica-thickened epoxy. This makes it strong and waterproof as it will be below the waterline so must be completely waterproof.

The daggerboard trunk is the most important part of the boat, especially if you're making a sailboat version (this boat can easily just be used as a rowboat). Not only does it support the center seat (thwart), but it has to transfer all of the force from the sail to the water and if you run the boat aground, it takes all the shock loading from the daggerboard.

The daggerboard gets filleted into place like everything else. Make sure it's perfectly on the centerline of the boat as that will affect its sailing characteristics.

Next, let's make the daggerboard slot in the center thwart. I set up a straight edge with a spiral upcutting router bit. Make sure to enlarge the slots at the end of the center thwart so that it can fit around the fillets of the center bulkhead. Now is the time to ease the edges of the center thwart because you'll be sitting on it a lot, so it needs to be comfortable. Because it's so thin, I only routed the top edge of the center thwart that shows and just hand sanded the edge underneath (it's very problematic to use a round-over bit on the second side of a thin board). Paint all of the thwarts with three coats of unthickened epoxy, especially the undersides. Once the woodworking is done, the thwart can be epoxied into place with peanut butter (or you can jump to cutting the daggerboard slot in the bottom of the hull). Make sure the thwart fits snugly in place. Drop dollops of peanut butter on the top edges of the center bulkhead and daggerboard case and spread it out evenly (make sure none gets inside the slot to interfere with the daggerboard). Firmly seat the thwart (pun intended) into the goop and weight it down. Let it cure overnight.

While you've making sawdust, cut out the mast hole (partner) in the forward thwart by drilling holes in the four corners (for the square mast we're going to make), then cut out the sides, file it smooth, then round over the top edge with the router.

Any time after the bulkhead thwart fillets have cured, you can seal the airtank chambers. Paint the bottom, sides, inside of the bulkhead and transom up to the level where the thwart will be.

Step 6: Rail & Sailboat Parts...

There are several processes in this boat building instructable that can be done concurrently. While you're waiting for the epoxy on one part to cure, you can be doing woodworking or epoxying another part. This step illustrates that point. While you're waiting for the epoxy on the rub rail (outwale) to cure, you can be fabricating the sailboat accessories (e.g. daggerboard, rudder, tiller, spars, etc.).

In order for the outwale to be thick/strong enough to be effective, you'll need to laminate it in two strips on each side. You can't bend a single piece that thick around the curvature of the hull without either breaking the wood or softening it by steaming it which is a complicated process.

Take a strip that's half the final thickness and a little longer than the boat edge (I made mine a bit beefier), mix up some peanut butter with the colloidal silica and carefully spread it on the inside of the strip. Starting at the stern, clamp it in place, perfectly align it with the top edge of the plywood. Now you have a long, springy lever to bend the wood strip along the compound curve. It dips both vertically (shear), and bows out at the widest part of the boat (beam), then back in toward the bow. At least every foot, clamp it as you go, moving forward. More is better. Toward the bow, the strip will get stiffer as it gets shorter. Once clamped in place, scrape/wipe off all the squeeze-out. It's much easier to remove now than after it hardens. Let it sit overnight. You'll have to repeat this three more times, meaning this step takes four days (if you're using "slow" epoxy hardener).

During those four days that you're dealing with the outwale, you can make major progress on the sailboat parts. They're completely separate from the hull. If you're just making a rowboat, then you can skip making these parts.

The daggerboard and rudder are cut out and laminated. Then a bevel is ground onto the leading and trailing edges to make it slice through the water more efficiently. Then they're covered in layers of epoxy. The mast step is assembled. This has to be very strong because all of the force of the sail is transmitted to the boat through the mast step and the mast is a very long lever arm. The rudder cheek plates and tiller also have to be assembled similarly to the daggerboard case.

NOTE: Whenever there's a hole to be drilled into any part of the boat, you must take additional steps to make sure the water doesn't penetrate and damage the wood. The correct procedure is to drill an over-sized hole, completely fill that hole with epoxy (I usually put a piece of masking tape on the back side to act as a dam), then once the epoxy cures, re-drill in the center of the epoxy plug the correct hole size. That makes each hole in the boat possibly a 2 day process, so plan accordingly. You can also use 5 minute epoxy to knock out a bunch of holes quickly, but be careful, they're not kidding. This stuff gets rock hard very quickly and will permanently glue anything touching. This is exactly how you drill the hole for the pivot point for the rudder/cheek plate assembly. If the pin is 1/4", then drill 1/2" hole and fill that with epoxy. Now the 1/4" hole will fit nicely in the center and be completely waterproof.

Since all the parts need several coats of unthickened epoxy and they just about all have holes in them, I hung them up with some twine and painted them on all sides, one layer at a time, for several days. Make sure the rudder doesn't get too thick to fit inside the cheek plates.

Step 7: Making the Spars...

More sailboat parts you can make while waiting for other parts to cure are the spars, the structural parts that support the sail. The mast is another glue up. I used 3 - 1x3's of hemlock. A relatively soft wood, but with a nice tight grain with no knots. A mast would break at a knot, regardless of how strong the wood is. Using the waterproof glue, align the pieces as perfectly as you can then clamp up the assembly and let dry overnight. Then run it through a table saw to get the final dimensions. Use a router and a round-over bit to ease the edges. Cut to length and sand the sharp corners. It should fit easily, but snugly into the forward thwart.

The boom (bottom of sail) is a little more complicated. Cut out the gooseneck (boom pivot point) by using a hole saw first, making sure to clamp it securely to the workbench, then cut out the profile. This gets attached to another piece of 1x3 hemlock, after it's been cut to length and the edges have been rounded over.

The yard (top of sail) is easy. Just cut to length and round over the edges. Drill and fill any holes in the spars at this time. You'll need at least one hole on each end to lash the sail grommets to.

This time, everything gets covered with several coats of varnish, epoxy is not necessary. The varnish protects the wood from water and UV damage.

The reason we had to make at least the mast at this point is because we'll need it in the next step to establish the location of the mast step.

Step 8: Finishing Up the Interior & Exterior...

Once the outwales are successfully attached, trim them flush with the face of the transom(s). While you're at it, use a flush cut saw (with no sawtooth offset to mar the wood) to trim the sides flush with the transom. This will show you how well your injected silica mix worked earlier. Now you're ready to install the mast step.

The mast step must be precisely located on the floor (sole) of the boat to give the mast the proper angle (rake). This is very important because it directly affects the boat's ability to sail upwind. Using your mast, insert it into the forward thwart (partner) and into the mast step. With the mast at a 3° angle (mostly vertical but with a small, yet noticeable and graceful tilt toward the stern of the boat), trace the location of the mast step. Use a combination square to make sure it's perfectly aligned side to side (athwartship). You can now set the mast aside. Drill and fill holes in the bottom of the boat so that you can securely screw the mast step from the outside of the hull. The mast base must also be epoxied to the sole with peanut butter. After it's screwed into place but before the epoxy cures, make sure to test fit the mast again and verify the rake angle is correct. It would be a little messy at this point if you had to tweak it, but at least you wouldn't have to cut it off.

Now comes the most unpleasant part of the whole build. On your hands and knees, make a 1" radius fillet on the underside of every part in the boat. I didn't worry about making these pretty, just structural and water tight (these create the flotation tanks that keep the boat from sinking if you capsize). Let that cure overnight.

Next is the scariest part of the build, making the slot in the hull for the daggerboard. Using a drill bit extension, from the inside of the boat, reach down through the daggerboard case and drill a hole at each end of the slot through the bottom of the boat (make sure to use a backer board). Drill a couple holes in between, then take a jigsaw and connect the dots. This weakens the hull enough so that the router won't tear out any extra wood. Note, this step can easily be done prior to affixing the center thwart. Using a flush trim/laminate router bit, let the bearing run around the inside of the daggerboard case. This will make the hole in the hull perfectly match the slot. This is important because you don't want a shoulder on the inside for the daggerboard to hit and you don't want to damage the waterproof lining of the case. Last, ease the sharp edge of the daggerboard slot with the router and a small radius round-over bit.

The skeg must be cut to fit the curve of the hull (rocker), then using silicone bronze screws, attach it to the hull using the same drill and fill/peanut butter techniques. Make sure to snap a chalk line on the centerline of the boat for reference. Then make a 1" fillet where it meets the hull which will support the skeg and make it strong. The skeg keeps the boat tracking straight in the water. I optionally used some fiberglass cloth to cover the skeg and overlap onto the bottom to make the entire assembly stronger and more waterproof. The skeg will take the brunt of the abuse when launching, beaching, loading and unloading, etc. I also installed a stainless steel rubstrake on the aft end of the skeg with this in mind. In wooden boat building, silicone bronze screws are often used because they won't corrode when encapsulated like stainless steel screws can.

Install the skids parallel to the skeg. These are solid pieces of hardwood because they will also take a lot of abuse when the boat is sitting on shore, protecting the thin hull from rocks, etc. They get installed the same way as the skeg, although it's a little tough to bend the wood along the rocker. Scrape off the excess peanut butter once they're screwed in place.

I also installed the optional outboard motor pad at this point because I plan to use an electric trolling motor on the back to quietly putter around the lake in the evenings to relax with the family after work.

That should be the last parts that go into making the boat!

Step 9: Finishing the Hull...

Now comes the last dash to the finish line. One of the more tedious steps is that you now have to sand the entire boat. I actually built the entire boat inside, but for the sanding stage, I took her outside. Several hours of sanding all of the fillets nice and smooth. Everything will show in the finished product whether you paint the boat or leave it "bright" (unpainted). If you've been careful about cleaning up the peanut butter as you go, you should be able to sand the boat with mostly 220 grit. Be careful not to sand through the thin veneer of the plywood. After the sanding is done (make sure to use a dust mask), vacuum the entire boat and then wipe it down with a tack cloth to remove any dust. I also reversed the hose on the shop vac and used it to blow the sawdust off since I was outside.

Next, you must coat the entire interior and exterior with 3-4 coats of unthickened epoxy. This makes the entire boat waterproof. It will also give you an idea of how beautiful the wood will look when varnished. This is why a lot of boat builders decide to leave their boats bright so the beauty of the wood shows through.

Mix up 1 cup batches of unthickened epoxy and pour out large puddles onto the surface. Taking a foam roller, distribute the epoxy in a smooth coat. Now take a wide foam brush and gently smooth (tip) the rolled out surface. This should remove any lap marks or bubbles. Move along to the next area, making sure to not touch the wet parts. Also, make sure no dust or bugs get on your finish or it'll mean even more sanding later.

Start with the exterior first. It'll be much easier to get good by practicing on the convex surfaces. The interior is more tricky because you want to prevent sags and pooling by only applying very thin coats.

Make sure to check with the manufacturer's directions during this step in case you have to deal with "blushing", a thin layer that can sometimes form on the surface of epoxy when it cures. This could cause your layers to not stick to each other. If your epoxy does blush, it's easy to just wipe the entire boat down with a rag soaked in acetone after each coat has cured. Some people sand between coats of epoxy. This is how you would make an extremely smooth/shiny finish, so if you want your boat to be museum quality, invest the effort. I'm planning on banging my boat around so opted out of an extreme, fancy, mirror finish.

I was originally going to paint the exterior of the hull, which would require priming and painting, but I'm leaving it bright for the time being. The good news is that you can always paint later if you change your mind, but if you paint it and change your mind, it's tough to go back. There aren't a lot of pics of this step, which took a couple of days because there wasn't much visible progress after that first coat went on. At this point, any surface that's not painted should be varnished using the same "roll and tip" method as the epoxy, with the optional sanding between coats. Note that epoxy has no UV resistance, so to keep your boat from getting sunburned, you must either paint or varnish every surface. Giving a boat a "museum quality" paint and/or varnish finish can literally take as long as building the boat.

Step 10: Making the Sail...

Another step you can do while other parts are curing is make the sail. This particular design uses a "lug" sail, a classic looking sail for small boats with wood masts. It increases the sail area (therefore the force generated by the wind) without it having to be as tall as a modern sailboat mast made of aluminum. There is a kit from an online sailmaking company that you can get for a reasonable price. The Dacron cloth panels are all cut out by a CNC machine, so they fit perfectly together. I used a regular, domestic sewing machine, not an industrial one. The only time I had trouble was when sewing through all 7 layers at the reinforcement patches. When I got to those parts, I had to manually push down on the foot of the sewing machine with a flat-bladed screwdriver (minus) to help push the needle through the Dacron. We jokingly call Philips head screwdrivers "plus".

The panels/parts all come labeled. The directions were a bit confusing because they suggest you make sub-assemblies after the fact to make wrangling the large sail easier but they mention it after you've already sewn the large panels together. It's important to understand what parts go together while the panels are still small and more manageable. For example, the batten pockets are tricky enough to build on a single panel, much less the finished sail. Building the sail was about as difficult for me as building the boat, but it was worth it.

The lug sail gets reinforcement patches on all four corners where you attach it to the spars (bend), and there's also a reefing point for when the wind starts to pick up (freshen). Modern sails have three corners (Marconi rig).

I opted for the less expensive white Dacron sail kit, but there's also a classic red (tanbark) colored kit that's $100 more expensive. Before I sewed a single stitch, I carefully traced every part of the sail kit onto painter's tarp poly film so I can always use the templates to build another sail, all I need to do is buy the tanbark cloth.

Step 11: Rigging Your Sailboat...

This seems to be the trickiest part for most people, probably because there are numerous ways it can be successfully rigged, depending on your experience, preferences or criteria. It's confusing because you have to know what the finished setup will look like in your mind while you're staring at a pile of ropes. I chose a setup that allows the most room in the cockpit for a full-sized adult, so the mainsheet is led forward of the skipper's position. This keeps the skipper's attention forward so they're looking where they're going. I have another boat where the mainsheet is behind the skipper and it takes some practice getting used to.

The lines I made up (rope becomes a line when you give it a job description) were the halyard (hauls the sail up), the mainsheet (adjusts the angle of the sail to the wind = trim) and a traveler bridle (where the mainsheet attaches to the boat). I got fancy and spliced all my ends, but you can just as well use a bowline knot.

I installed a cheek block at the top of the mast instead of the large diameter hole in the directions. I wanted the halyard to run as smoothly as possible when setting the sail. Then I installed a pair of cleats at the base of the mast, one for the halyard and one for the downhaul (cunningham). With both of these lines pulling in opposite directions, it locks the sail in place, flat, so it effectivley acts like a wing. The main halyard attaches to the gaff with a snap onto a padeye. This allows easy on/easy off when rigging at the boat ramp. I also used a small loop (parrel) around the mast and through the eye to keep the gaff located close to the mast. I looped the downhaul over the boom and down to the cleat to try to keep the gooseneck from twisting. Note, except for the blocks, just about all of the hardware used on rigging a boat this size can come in stainless steel or brass/bronze, depending on the look you're going for. If you plan on installing oarlocks to row the boat, this decision becomes even more important to the final look of the boat.

For the mainsheet, I made a short bridle between the handles on the transom with a small eye tied in the center. This allows a place for the snap on the end of the mainsheet to attach to. I could've just as easily allowed the snap to slide, which would give the bridle the function of a traveler, but would affect its pointing ability (sail upwind). The mainsheet is then run to a block on the end of the boom, then to another block in the middle of the boom. This leaves the main cockpit area unobstructed with running rigging. Make sure your mainsheet is long enough for your boom to swing forward of 90° to the boat, with enough to still come back to the cockpit for the skipper to control. A stop knot at the end of the mainsheet will keep the mainsheet from getting away from you and give you something to grip.

The rudder pivot hardware (gudgeons and pintles) must be installed perfectly vertical and on the exact centerline of the boat so that she will sail well. Drill and fill the necessary holes for this hardware. Be careful with the spacing. It's designed to be easily installed and uninstalled while underway.

With this particular rigging layout, when under sail, the skipper must constantly keep the mainsheet in hand, which is a good idea anyway for safety reasons (if you get hit by a gust of wind = puff, you won't get blown over = capsize). The tension on the mainsheet is easily manageable for any size skipper. On larger boats, the mainsheet is held by a fiddle block with a cam cleat, which is not necessary for a boat this size. With that being said, a possible future upgrade would be to install a block and a camcleat somewhere on the centerline of the boat so that more advanced sailors wouldn't need to constantly have to oppose the tension on the mainsheet. Of course the trade-off would be the hardware would probably be somewhere you might want to sit.

Another upgrade I figured out after actually taking her sailing would be to rig up a bungee/shock cord system that will hold the daggerboard both in an up and down position. With the current setup, the centerboard is held down by gravity and must be pulled out of the slot when beaching.

Step 12: Go SAILING!

Because I wanted to be able to go sailing by myself if needed, I made a dolly out of 2x4's and large pneumatic tires (which makes the dolly float). The dolly fits securely between the center and aft thwarts when driving out to the lake. The sides on the dolly lock against the skids on the bottom of the boat so it can't twist. Roll the sail up with the spars and wrap it with the main halyard. At the designed length, the mast doesn't fit inside the boat, but it seems a bit long, so some people have cut the mast down enough so that it fits inside the boat.

Out at the lake, unload the boat, slide the dolly underneath and you're ready to roll down to the ramp. At the launch, roll the boat out into the water until it floats off the dolly, toss the dolly off to the side out of everybody else's way. Drop the daggerboard into the slot and install the rudder assembly. Facing into the wind (important), stick the mast into the receiver hole (partner), tie off the downhaul (cunningham) and hoist the sail until the downhaul is tight, then cleat off the main halyard. Reave the mainsheet (run the line through the blocks) and you're ready to go sailing.

I've found that this boat sails very well. The lug sail makes it very easy to sail upwind (weather helm), it's a little more tender for a large adult, more so than a boat with a hard chine, like an El Toro/Optimist but it's a lot more graceful looking. The payload is very reasonable for a boat this size. My wife and son can easily (and safely) go sailing with me and I don't even need anyone's help to get it rigged and launched. All in all, this is one of the best projects I've every built. I hope you too can discover the joy of building your own boat and then take her sailing. Remember, in sailing, the wind is free, but nothing else is...

This is my very first Instructable after many years of referencing this excellent site to build numerous cool projects (you should see my next post). Anyway, I hope you enjoy it and please feel free to ask any questions you may have and I'll do my best to answer them. I'm planning on building a larger boat in the near future so stay tuned...

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