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7 Best Sailboat Autopilot Systems

7 Best Sailboat Autopilots | Life of Sailing

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

Essential in increasing efficiency, safety, and convenience, marine autopilots are a sailor's best friend when out there on the water. A properly operating sailboat autopilot will keep your sailboat on a selected course even in strong currents and winds and that why you need to go for the best sailboat autopilot.

Steering a sailboat is always fun. And even though many sailors are so good at it, some circumstances can make steering a boat on a straight line or the right course almost impossible. The tides, winds, and the complex hull-bottom designs can throw your sailboat off route and the adjustments that you have to make to return to course can be your voyage killers. Even if you have a crew that regularly sails with you, having an autopilot can help you stay on course and that's exactly why you need the best sailboat autopilot.

In the simplest term possible, an autopilot is an extra pair of hands that can help you in steering your sailboat on the right course. It is a self-steering device for powerboats or sailboats and even the most basic autopilot can help in holding your vessel on a pre-set compass course. Some advanced autopilots can even gather data from your boat and determine whether or not the boat is capable of handling the task in hand.

So whether you have a mechanically-steered boat or a tiller-steered sailboat, an autopilot is of great importance for both you and your boat. And it doesn't matter whether you want to explore your nearest lake for a day or want to sail to the Caribbean on your sailboat, it will make your job a lot easier, efficient, and safer. This is why we've put together this article to help you find the best sailboat autopilot. Read on and find which is best for you and your sailboat.

Table of contents

How to Choose the Best Sailboat Autopilot for Your Vessel

When it comes to choosing the best sailboat autopilot for your vessel, the easiest thing to do would be to go for an autopilot that can steer your sailboat in calm seas. However, this is not advisable since you want an autopilot that works perfectly under very demanding sea conditions. With that in mind, here are the most important things to consider when looking at the best sailboat autopilot for you. 

Speed of Helm Adjustment

The best way to measure the speed on an autopilot that's appropriate for your boat is by looking at the number of degrees per second of helm correction. As such a 40-feet boat requires 10 degrees per second, a 25-feet boat requires 15 degrees per second, and a 70-feet boat requires 5 degrees per second. 

An above-deck or below-deck Autopilot

Do you want an autopilot that's designed to be used above the deck or below the deck? Well, the most important thing is to choose an autopilot that matches the displacement of your boat. More importantly, above-deck autopilots are ideal if you have a smaller boat while below-deck autopilot is ideal if you have a larger boat.

The Steering System

What type of steering system does your boat have? It's important to understand whether your boat has rotary drives, linear drive, or hydraulic drives. 

Control Interfaces

You should choose what's perfect for you as far as the control interface is concerned because this is one of the most crucial parts of an autopilot. The best features to consider include ease of use, waterproof, intuitive display, backlit options, and compatibility with SimNet, SeaTalk, and NMEA 2000.

7 Best Sailboat Autopilots

Here are the 7 best sailboat autopilots.

Raymarine ST1000 Plus Tiller Pilot

(Best for Tiller-steered Sailboats)

The Raymarine ST100 Plus Tiller Pilot is a classic tiller pilot that's one of the best accessories for your sailboat and your everyday sailing escapades. It's designed in such a way that it can accept NMEA data while still offering accurate navigation thanks to its incredibly intelligent software.

This autopilot is designed with a backlit LCD to help you see your navigational data, locked course, and other important information that can make your sailing safer and much better. The fact that the backlit LCD works perfectly in low-light conditions is an added plus.

That's not all; the ST1000 comes with an AutoTack feature that works like an extra hand when you're engaged in other responsibilities. For example, it can tack the sailboat for you when you adjust the sails. Better still, this autopilot is fully-fitted with everything that you need to install it on your sailboat and use it.

  • ‍ It's easy to use thanks to the simple six-button keypad
  • It's perfect when sailing in the calm sea as well as in stormy conditions
  • It is waterproof so you don't have to worry about it getting damaged
  • Its intelligent software minimizes battery usage thereby prolonging its battery life
  • Perfect for tiller-steered sailboats
  • ‍ The 2-year warranty could be improved
  • It's a bit heavier

Garmin Ghc 20 Marine Autopilot Helm Control

(Best for Night Sailing)

If you're planning to go on a voyage, chances are you'll find yourself sailing overnight. With that in mind, you should go for an autopilot that works perfectly both during the day and at night. The Garmin Ghc 20 Marine Autopilot Helm Control is your best sailboat autopilot for these types of adventure.

This amazing autopilot is designed with a 4-inch display that can improve your nighttime readability. This display is glass-bonded and comes with an anti-glare lens that is essential in preventing fog and glare in sunny conditions. This is crucial in helping you maintain control in all conditions, both during the day and at night.

This autopilot also provides a 170-degree viewing angle. This is essential in viewing the display at almost any angle. So whether you're adjusting the sails up on the deck or grabbing an extra sheet below the deck, you can be able to look at the display and see what's going on. So whether a sailing vessel or a powerboat, this autopilot is easy to use thanks to its five-button control. 

  • ‍ The five-button control makes it easy to use
  • Comes with a bright 4-inch display
  • The display works in all conditions thanks to its glass-bonded, anti-glare lens
  • The display offers optimal view both during the day and at night
  • It's compatible with other Garmin products
  • ‍ Only good for sailboat under 40 feet in length
  • The battery life should be improved

Simrad TP10 Tillerpilot

(Best for 32-feet or less Sailboat)

For many lone sailors, going with a sailboat that measures 32-feet or less in length is always ideal. Under such scenarios, it's always best to go with a sailboat autopilot that's perfect for such types of boats, and the Simrad TP10 Tillerpilot can be a superb option for you. This autopilot is so perfect as it brings to the table a combination of advanced technological software and simplicity.

Its five-button display makes it user-friendly, easy to use, and perfect in controlling your sailboat accordingly. This autopilot has a low-power draw, which means that your battery will last longer even when used for prolonged periods. This is an excellent autopilot that's designed with the sailor in mind as it goes about its business quietly so that you can enjoy your sailing adventures without noise and interruption from a humming autopilot.

  • ‍ One of the quietest sailboat autopilots
  • The battery life is excellent
  • It's designed with one of the most advanced software
  • It's waterproof to protect it from spray and elements
  • It offers precision steering and reading in all types of weather conditions
  • It's easy to use and control
  • ‍ Not ideal for big boats

Raymarine M81131 12 Volt Type 2 Autopilot Linear Drive

(Best for Seasonal Cruising)

For those of us who love cruising during winter when other sailors are drinking hot coffee from the comfort of their abodes, the Raymarine M81131 is the right sailboat autopilot for you. Well, this autopilot can be an ideal option if your sailboat is large enough to have a full motor system.

This autopilot is one of the most powerful in the marine industry and has an incredible electromagnetic fail-safe clutch. This autopilot is also compatible with other devices such as NMEA 2000 ABD SeaTalk navigation data. In terms of precision navigation, this autopilot will never disappoint you in any weather condition.

So whether you're looking to go ice-fishing or sailing the oceans during winter, this is your go-to autopilot.

  • ‍ Offers optimal sailing experience and navigation precision
  • It's very quiet
  • It offers high performance with minimal battery usage
  • It's great for adverse winter conditions 
  • ‍ It's expensive

Furuno Navpilot 711C Autopilot System

(Best for Accuracy)

If you're looking for the best sailboat autopilot that will take your navigation to the next level in terms of accuracy, look no further than the Furuno Navpilot 711C. This is an autopilot that enhances your boat's precision as far as staying on course is concerned. This is because the autopilot is designed with a self-learning software program that offers step by step calculations of your navigation and course.

This autopilot also offers real-time dynamic adjustments so that you can steer your sailboat more accurately. Thanks to this self-learning algorithm also offers great power application that significantly reduces the manual helm effort when maneuvering various situations. Its colored graphic display is of great benefit as you can easily read the information even in low-light conditions. So it doesn't matter whether you're sailing at night or during the day, this autopilot will serve you right in any condition. 

  • ‍ It's great for power and fuel efficiency
  • The display is intuitive
  • It's easy to set up and use
  • Its power assist is essential in reducing steering system complexity
  • Great for both outboard and inboard motors
  • ‍ Quite expensive

Si-Tex SP120 Autopilot with Virtual Feedback

(The Most Affordable Autopilot)

If you're on a budget and looking for one of the most affordable yet reliable sailboat autopilots, look no further than the Si-Tex SP120 Autopilot. This is a perfect high-performance sailboat autopilot that can be great for small to medium-sized powerboats and sailboats.

One of the most important features that this autopilot brings to the table is the ability to offer virtual feedback. This is great in eliminating the manual rudder feedback and thereby enhances your sailboat's performance. Its splash-proof 4.3-inch LCD offers one of the best transflective displays in the marine industry. The 4-button operation makes it a lot easier to use and provides the information you need to steer your sailboat safely and perfectly.

This autopilot can be great for you if you have a small or medium-sized sailboat thanks to its ease of use. The fact that it's one of the most affordable sailboat autopilots makes it highly popular with sailors who are on a budget.

  • ‍ It's simple to install and use
  • The virtual feedback is great
  • The display is one of the best in the game
  • It's quite affordable
  • ‍ It's not ideal for big boats

Garmin Reactor 40 Kicker Autopilot

(Best for Outboard Motor Boats)

If you have a motorboat that has a single-engine outboard, The Garmin Reactor 40 Kicker Autopilot can be an ideal option. This is a great autopilot that mitigates heading error and unnecessary rudder movement while offering more flexible mounting, which is essential in offering a more comfortable sailing even in the roughest of weather conditions.

This autopilot can be easily fine-tuned thanks to its throttle settings with a touch of a button. Of course, this can be useful especially when the seas are rough and you're trying to remain on course. This autopilot is also waterproof to ensure that it doesn't get damaged with spray or other elements.

With this autopilot, you're guaranteed to enjoy an awesome sailing trip even when going against the wind or when sailing in rough conditions. 

  • ‍ Easy to install and use
  • It's waterproof
  • It's beautifully designed
  • It comes with a floating handheld remote control
  • It's great for maintaining heading hold and route.
  • ‍ It's only ideal for motorboats with up to 20 horsepower
  • It's relatively expensive

As you can see, there are plenty of options when it comes to choosing an ideal sailboat autopilot for you. The best thing about the above-described sailboat autopilots is that they're among the best and you can find one that perfectly suits your unique needs and boats. Of course, most of them are quite expensive but they will advance the way you sail and make your sailing adventures even more enjoyable. We hope that you'll find the perfect sailboat autopilot for you.

Until next time, happy sailing!

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Golden Globe Update Day 113:

[GGR Leader Jean-Luc Van Den Heede sailing the Rustler 36 Matmut] was full of praise for his Hydrovane self-steering. “In a gale it has a big advantage because it is not steering the boat’s rudder, but has its own. This little rudder is far more efficient than the big rudder.”

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In this recent Pacific crossing, the Hydrovane kept us on course (relative to the wind, of course) for several days at a time, requiring no tweaking or attention at all. If you can balance your boat and twist a dial, you can successfully operate a Hydrovane. Don’t leave home without one!

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Happy Halloween! This costume may have been for a different occasion but relevant nonetheless! 👻 “After seeing what Taurus [the Hydrovane] does for us [my friend] fell in love with him too. So much so that when the crew dressed up for the equator crossing, she dressed up as a Hydrovane!” - Norlin 37 owner 🙌🙌 ... See More See Less

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How To Pick the Right Self Steering for Solo Sailing

self steering small sailboat

Self steering is one of the most important considerations for solo sailing and any sailor who is preparing to embark on an offshore voyage. Many people who have never sailed alone believe that single handed sailors spend entire passages glued to the helm, spending weeks on end behind the wheel through heat and gales, only pausing for brief moments to grab a snack or go to the bathroom. Thankfully for solo sailors, the reality is usually quite different. 

Most solo sailors have indeed been forced to steer for prolonged periods of time at some point in their careers, but the reality is that most lone voyagers use a windvane or autopilot to steer as much as possible, freeing their time up to take care of the boat and enjoy the passage. It’s one of the greatest beauties about blue water sailing vessels that you can get the boat to sail herself most of the time, which allows the captain to spend his hours navigating, handling the sails, reading, cooking, fishing, singing poorly at the top of their lungs, and enjoying the rare freedom that is only known to people who have been hundreds of miles from the nearest human being. 

While preparing to write this guide, I asked eight highly experienced single handed sailors what was the most important piece of equipment they took on their expeditions, and all of them agreed it was their self steering systems. 

Whether you choose to equip your vessel with an electric autopilot, a windvane, or simply use sheet to tiller steering techniques, it’s absolutely critical to the success of your voyage to have some kind of self steering mechanism in place to keep your boat headed in the right direction while you sleep or tend to the boat. 

In the third and final part of our solo sailing series, we will take a look at self steering for single handed sailors, beginning with a brief history of self steering techniques, moving on to explore different types of self steering available to sailors today, and finally covering how to decide what self steering system is best for you. 

A Brief History of Self Steering Techniques

self steering small sailboat

The great pioneer for self steering techniques for solo sailors was Joshua Slocum, an American sailing ship captain who witnessed the dying days of the great age of sail and went on to become the first person ever to sail around the world alone. Slocum’s circumnavigation was completed in the early 1900’s on an old fishing vessel (called the Spray ) that he had refitted for the voyage himself. At the time of Slocum’s solo circumnavigation, sailing alone offshore was so rare that he was often accused of murdering and eating his crew at sea.

When Slocum left Boston to sail around the world, it was agreed upon among sailors that every vessel needed at least one or two crew members in order to keep watch and steer the vessel while the captain slept. Even captains of small fishing or merchant vessels that were only at sea for a day or two at a time brought along a second mate to help handle the boat. Nobody could fathom why he would want to do it alone. 

Slocum claimed that the Spray, which in addition to having no crew was also engineless, could hold a steady course on just about all points of sail. He would set the sails so that the boat was well balanced, lash the wheel to account for any lee helm or current, and lie down to sleep – sometimes for hours at a time. 

There were instances that he didn’t touch the helm for days at a time, like when he fell violently ill from food poisoning off the coast of Spain. Slocum crawled down below and curled up on the cabin floor in extreme pain. At some point he looked up the companionway and saw a “ghost captain” who he believed had taken control of the wheel to keep the Spray clear of rocks. 

Slocum recovered and eventually completed his voyage, returning to Boston three years after his departure. The voyage made him an instant celebrity, and Slocum wrote a book about the voyage which is still in print over a hundred years later. His voyage inspired other solo sailors to attempt the same feat, and each of them dealt with self steering using their own techniques.

As more sailors attempted to replicate Slocum’s solo voyages, it became apparent that not all boats had the same natural ability to hold a steady course as the Spray. Many vessels will steer themselves quite well with the wind forward of the beam, but as the wind moves aft, they tend to become more temperamental, rounding up into the wind. Various techniques were tried to remedy this problem of self steering downwind, often using twin jibs that were connected to the helm via a series of blocks and lines. This technique was used with varying degrees of success, but it never came close to competing with a contemporary windvane or autopilot with regards to ease of use and reliability. 

By the 1950’s, solo sailing was taking off as a major sport for challenge seekers and adventurers. A single handed transatlantic race was conceived (which later became the OSTAR race) from England to the United States and solo sailors and their exploits became a regular feature on newspaper headlines from London to New Delhi. 

Despite all this interest in solo sailing, self steering was still the greatest single problem for lone sailors. Then Blondie Hastler, one of the competitors in the early races, came up with an invention that would change the world of solo sailing forever. 

Hastler designed the first self steering windvane, a device which uses a small sail and auxiliary rudder to keep the boat sailing on track based on the wind direction (see the section “Windvanes” below). Windvanes immediately took off, and within a year or two of Hastler revealing his invention to the world they were already extremely popular among solo and double handed sailors. In 1968, when the Golden Globe round the world yacht race was held, each competitor had some version of Hastler’s self steering system. 

Soon, the first commercial units hit the market, and by the 1970’s there were over a dozen manufacturers of windvane self steering units. The early designs had various issues, but each year brought new innovations, and today there are a number of highly proven windvanes available on the market. Some models are strong enough to be guaranteed to hold up for an entire circumnavigation, and I have been told of one Australian circumnavigator using the same Aires windvane for ten different round the world voyages. 

Windvanes serve their purpose very well, but the limitations to windvane self steering became more apparent as racing sailboats got faster, in some cases moving faster than the wind. The problem with using a windvane to hold a course when you are sailing faster than the wind is that the apparent wind direction becomes so far from the true wind direction that a windvane cannot hold a steady course. That’s why you never see a windvane on an IMOCA 60 or a 100 foot racing trimaran.

The first time an electronic autopilot was used as a means of self steering for an ocean crossing was in 1936, when Marin Marie traveled from New York to La Havre on his 13-metre motor vessel Arielle. Marie used a primitive version of an electric autopilot to varying degrees of success on his voyage, but it took many more decades for them to become regularly used by boaters. Today, electric autopilots have become the most popular choice for self steering, although windvane self steering remains a favorite for hard core offshore voyagers. 

Windvanes for Solo Sailing

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A windvane is a piece of equipment that is mounted to the transom of your vessel which uses a small sail and miniature rudder to steer your boat according to the wind direction. The windvane is set so that the wind passes on both sides of the vane. When the boat veers off course, the wind pushes on the side of the vane – causing it to pull on lines which are connected to the steering system via a series of blocks. The whole setup uses no electricity and can operate in anything from six or seven knots of wind to a full blown gale. 

There are many models of windvane available on the market, but they are all based on one of two primary types – a servo pendulum or auxiliary rudder. Servo pendulum windvanes use lines connected to the ship’s primary rudder to steer the vessel. Auxiliary rudder windvanes use a smaller separate rudder to steer the boat with the primary steering locked off amidships. 

The advantage to a servo pendulum style windvane is that it can be much smaller and better concealed than an auxiliary rudder style unit. In the case of Cape Horn windvanes, the unit can be made to fit with the lines of the vessel so that you barely notice it’s there at all. Cape Horn windvanes also have few moving parts that can break, and they come with a warranty for 28,000 miles or a complete circumnavigation. 

The advantage to the auxiliary rudder design is that they don’t need to be connected to the main steering system, and they can also be used as emergency steering if the primary rudder is lost. If your vessel has hydraulic steering or is equipped with dual helms, it’s a good idea to choose an auxiliary rudder type windvane, as they operate independently of the primary steering. This also gives the added advantage of not requiring lines to cross the cockpit, as is needed with most servo pendulum style windvanes.

Electric Autopilots for Solo Sailing

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Most cruising boats today are equipped with some type of electric autopilot (which uses a compass course or GPS coordinates to steer the vessel). The reason for this is they are relatively cheap when compared to the cost of a windvane, they are easy to use, and they can usually be installed without any significant changes to the vessel. They don’t change the appearance of the boat and don’t require a large external frame mounted to the transom.

On the other hand, electric autopilots often use a lot of electricity to operate, and are notoriously prone to breakages. I have found autopilots to be the second most common thing to break or malfunction during an offshore passage, after combustion engines. 

Of course, if you plan to be doing a lot of motoring, or if you have a racing boat that is capable of sailing faster than the true wind speed, an electric autopilot is the only way to go. 

There are three options available for electric autopilots – units that steer using an adapter that attaches to the wheel, units that use a hydraulic ran to move the rudder, and tillerpilots that connect directly to the tiller for smaller vessels. Tillerpilots are by far the cheapest option of the three, and they can be connected directly to the auxiliary rudder or servo pendulum on a windvane to steer a larger boat. 

While autopilots are no replacement for a windvane for a long offshore voyage, I believe that an electric autopilot, paired with other self steering options, is an important piece of equipment for modern day solo sailors. 

Sheet to Tiller Steering and Other Alternative Techniques

self steering small sailboat

Even on vessels equipped with a windvane or autopilot, it’s important to have a back up plan in case of equipment failure, especially for solo sailors. Prior to departure on your solo passage, it’s a good idea to practice balancing the sails and seeing how your vessel behaves with the wheel lashed on different points of sail. 

One alternative method for self steering is sheet to tiller steering, where one of the sheets (usually a jib sheet) is led to the tiller and bungee cords or elastic tubing is used to create some counter tension. This technique doesn’t work for every boat, but it’s worth experimenting with in case your windvane or autopilot breaks at sea. Of course, this only works for boats that have a tiller rather than a wheel.

On solo deliveries, I have often found myself on a vessel with faulty self steering gear. Usually I end up finding a way to balance the boat under sail while upwind, but I have had little luck keeping most vessels on course off the wind. That’s when I end up experimenting with sheet to tiller steering, or bracing myself for long hours at the wheel.

What’s the Best Self Steering for My Vessel? – Making the Final Decision

Investing in the proper type of self steering gear is one of the most significant decisions that you will need to make before embarking on a solo passage. It’s important to read everything you can find about the types of self steering that are available, and talk to other boaters with a similar type of vessel. Ultimately, the ideal setup depends on your size and design of vessel, type of primary steering onboard, and where you plan to sail.

Personally, I believe that pairing a windvane and a small tillerpilot is the best setup for most mid size cruising vessels. The windvane can be used to steer the boat under most sailing conditions, and the tillerpilot can be attached to the servo pendulum or auxillary rudder to steer the vessel while motoring or in light winds. If one system breaks, you can use the other to get to port and make repairs. I think the best choice of windvane is one that also can function as an emergency rudder, like the Hydrovane or Sailomat 3040 systems. That way, you can kill two birds with one stone. 

I chose a Hydrovane auxiliary rudder style self steering system for my own boat, and it has performed wonderfully thus far. I would recommend the same to any solo sailor with a mid size cruising vessel.

SailAndProp.com is the best place online to find all the information that you need to plan your future boating adventures. From choosing the best type of self steering gear to planning your route across the oceans, SailAndProp.com has got everything you need to hit the water with confidence. There’s no better way to keep up to date on all our latest boating info than to sign up to our newsletter, so don’t forget to subscribe today!

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Wind Vane Self Steering: The Ultimate Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 20, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

self steering small sailboat

Short answer: wind vane self steering

Wind vane self steering is a mechanical device used on sailboats to maintain a desired course without the need for continuous manual adjustment. It utilizes the force of the wind and a vertical axis to steer the boat by adjusting the position of the rudder.

How Wind Vane Self Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide

Title: How Wind Vane Self-Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Autonomy

Introduction: Sailing is the epitome of freedom, embracing the unpredictable elements as we navigate vast oceans. However, when embarking on long journeys or overnight trips, the need for reliable self-steering systems arises. Enter wind vane self-steering! In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into this ingenious system, explaining its principles and mechanics while highlighting its benefits for seafaring enthusiasts. So hoist your sails and embark on a journey of knowledge as we unravel the inner workings of wind vane self-steering.

Chapter 1: The Basics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 1.1 Understanding Sailboats’ Balancing Act: – Explaining the importance of maintaining equilibrium between the sail and rudder configurations. – Highlighting challenges faced when manually helming during long passages.

1.2 Introduction to Wind Vanes: – Defining the wind vane as an autonomous steering mechanism driven by apparent wind direction. – Detailing their various components such as vanes, sensors, gears, and linkages.

Chapter 2: Principles Behind Wind Vanes 2.1 Apparent vs True Wind: – Unveiling the distinction between apparent and true wind direction. – Describing how wind vanes utilize apparent wind to adjust course.

2.2 Weight vs Force Systems: – Distinguishing weight-driven systems (servo pendulum) from force-driven ones (auxiliary rudder). – Discussing pros and cons of each system in different sailing conditions.

Chapter 3: Mechanics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 3.1 Servo Pendulum System: – Unveiling the engineering marvels behind servo pendulum systems. – Analyzing their interaction with changing winds and seas.

3.2 Auxiliary Rudder Systems: – Detailing the mechanism of auxiliary rudder systems, their hydrodynamics, and adjustability. – Discussing how they maintain sailboat course while minimizing yaw.

Chapter 4: Installation and Utilization Tips 4.1 Installing Wind Vanes on Different Sailboats: – Providing step-by-step instructions for mounting wind vanes. – Highlighting considerations for various boat designs and sizes.

4.2 Calibration and Fine-Tuning: – Elaborating on the importance of accurate calibration to ensure precise steering. – Offering pro tips to optimize performance under different sailing conditions.

Chapter 5: Advantages and Limitations 5.1 Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering: – Presenting the advantages of autonomy, reduced energy consumption, and enhanced safety during long-haul sailing trips.

5.2 Considerations in Complex Sailing Conditions: – Identifying limitations related to challenging weather patterns or narrow channels, necessitating manual intervention.

Conclusion – Navigating the Open Seas with Confidence: Wind vane self-steering systems revolutionize long-distance sailing by providing sailors with a reliable automated alternative to constant helming. Understanding the principles, mechanics, and installation tips outlined in this comprehensive guide will empower seafarers to navigate vast oceans with confidence, leaving them more time to revel in the beauty of their surroundings. Embrace the freedom that wind vane self-steering offers–the transformative companion for every true sailor!

Wind Vane Self Steering Explained: Step by Step Process

When it comes to sailing, one of the most essential tools for achieving steady and reliable course keeping is a wind vane self-steering system. This mechanism harnesses the power of the wind to effectively steer the vessel autonomously, ensuring sailors can enjoy a smoother and more hands-free sailing experience. In this blog post, we will delve into the step-by-step process of how wind vane self-steering works, unraveling its inner workings and highlighting its benefits.

Step 1: Understanding the Basics

Before we dive into the intricacies, let’s start with the fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system consists of three main components: a wind vane, a linkage mechanism, and auxiliary steering gear. The wind vane acts as a sensory organ that detects changes in wind direction while transmitting these signals to the linkage mechanism. The linkage mechanism then translates those signals into appropriate movements, which are eventually transmitted to auxiliary steering gear responsible for adjusting sail trim or rudder angle.

Step 2: Wind Vane Sensitivity Adjustment

Once you’ve set up your wind vane self-steering system on board your yacht or sailboat, it’s crucial to fine-tune its sensitivity for optimal performance. By adjusting the weight distribution or adding counterweights to your wind vane, you can achieve precise responsiveness according to prevailing weather conditions. This careful calibration ensures that even subtle nuances in wind direction are accurately detected by the wind vane.

Step 3: Setting Course

Now that your system is finely tuned, it’s time to set your desired course manually using traditional methods such as compass bearings or GPS coordinates. Aligning your vessel towards this designated course provides initial guidance for your wind vane self-steerer.

Step 4: Autonomy Engaged

As soon as you activate your wind vane self-steering gear, you enable an autonomous sailor’s best friend. Once the wind vane starts detecting any deviations from your initial course, it sends signals to the linkage mechanism, instructing it to make corrections. This process ensures that your vessel automatically adjusts its heading to maintain the desired course against external factors such as wind shifts or gusts.

Step 5: Continuous Monitoring

While wind vane self-steering handles most course corrections independently, it does require regular monitoring to avoid any potential issues and make minor adjustments as needed. It is crucial to stay vigilant and keep an eye on how your self-steering system performs with changing wind conditions and other environmental factors.

Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering

Now that we’ve dived into the step-by-step process of wind vane self-steering, let’s explore its advantages:

1. Hands-free Sailing: With a properly calibrated and functioning wind vane self-steering system, sailors can free themselves from continuously holding the helm, affording a more relaxed sailing experience.

2. Increased Safety: Wind vane self-steering reduces fatigue in long ocean crossings by maintaining a steady course, minimizing human error risk at times when crew members might be physically exhausted.

3. Energy Efficiency: By utilizing the power of nature (the wind), a wind vane self-steerer requires no fuel consumption or electricity input for operation, making it an environmentally friendly and cost-effective solution for long-distance voyages.

In conclusion, the step-by-step process behind a wind vane self-steering system involves understanding the basics of its components, adjusting sensitivity levels, setting an initial course manually while enabling autonomy through continuous monitoring. This technology not only enhances safety but also allows sailors to enjoy hands-free sailing while embracing Mother Nature’s forces to keep their vessels on track efficiently. So why not embrace this clever innovation and sail away into effortless adventure?

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering: Unlocking the Secrets to Effortless Sailing

If you’ve ever been on a sailing adventure or have spent any time around seasoned sailors, you’ve likely heard of wind vane self steering devices. These ingenious contraptions have sparked curiosity and interest among many sailing enthusiasts, but like any new concept, questions tend to arise. In this blog post, we will dive deep into the frequently asked questions surrounding wind vane self steering systems and shed light on their working principles. Get ready to unravel the science behind these mechanical marvels!

Q1: What exactly is a wind vane self-steering system?

A wind vane self-steering system is a mechanism designed to keep a sailing vessel on course without manual intervention from the helmsman. This device utilizes the power of the wind to maintain a steady heading even in challenging weather conditions. By harnessing wind pressure and utilizing specially shaped vanes, wind vane self-steering systems elegantly counterbalance forces acting on sails and rudders.

Q2: How does a wind vane self-steering system work?

The operation of a wind vane self-steering system revolves around one fundamental principle—using apparent wind angles and force to steer the boat. Typically mounted at the stern of a vessel, these systems consist of an arrow-shaped vane that reacts to changes in apparent wind direction. As the breeze shifts or fluctuates in intensity, subtle movements in the vane are transmitted via lines or linkage mechanisms to adjust the position of an auxiliary rudder at the boat’s stern.

When the boat begins deviating from its intended course due to shifting winds, turbulence, or waves, this auxiliary rudder automatically adjusts itself according to variations in apparent wind angles detected by the main vane. Consequently, as long as there is sufficient breeze available for propulsion, these systems effectively maintain precise navigation even during extended periods at sea. It’s like having an invisible helmsman tirelessly steering your vessel, allowing you to relax and enjoy the journey.

Q3: Are wind vane self-steering systems compatible with all types of boats?

Wind vane self-steering systems are highly versatile and can be installed on a wide range of sailboats. Whether you have a small, single-handed cruiser or a larger ocean-going yacht, there is likely a system that suits your vessel. The main considerations when choosing the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat include size, weight, balance, and how well it integrates with the existing rigging setup. Manufacturers provide detailed guidelines and support to ensure compatibility with various boat designs.

Q4: Can wind vane self-steering systems handle different weather conditions?

Absolutely! Wind vane self-steering systems are designed to thrive in diverse weather conditions and adapt to changing environments. Whether you’re facing calm seas or rough waters with strong winds, these remarkable devices remain stable and steadfast in their coursekeeping abilities. However, it is essential to learn about any limitations specific to the model you choose based on sailing experience and intended use.

Q5: Are wind vane self-steering systems difficult to install?

While installing a wind vane self-steering system may require some technical know-how, most reputable manufacturers provide comprehensive manuals and guidance materials tailored for DIY installations. However, if you prefer professional assistance or lack the confidence in setting it up yourself, seeking help from expert marine technicians is always an option worth considering.

In conclusion, wind vane self-steering systems offer sailors an unprecedented level of autonomy on their voyages by effortlessly maintaining course while they sit back and take in the panoramic beauty around them. Their ingenious working principles elegantly leverage wind power to navigate through uncharted waters. Embracing one of these marvels on your own sailing adventure might just be the key to unlocking new levels of sailing satisfaction. So, batten down the hatches, set your sails, and let the wind vane self-steering system be your faithful navigator on this extraordinary journey!

Mastering the Art of Wind Vane Self Steering: Tips and Techniques

For sailors navigating the vast blue oceans, wind vane self-steering systems are an invaluable tool. These impressive devices not only alleviate the stress of manual helm control but also empower sailors to sail solo or in small crews with ease. However, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering requires more than just installing the equipment – it demands practice, knowledge, and a cunning understanding of its intricacies. In this blog post, we will delve into the depths of wind vane self-steering, providing you with tips and techniques that will have you sailing like a seasoned pro.

Understanding the Basics:

To begin our journey towards mastering wind vane self-steering, let’s start by unraveling its fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system essentially functions based on an aerodynamic principle: it utilizes changing winds to adjust your boat’s course automatically. The device consists of a wind vane mounted atop your vessel’s stern along with various lines and connections to your ship’s wheel or tiller.

1. Sail Trim is Key:

Properly adjusting your sails plays a crucial role in maximizing the efficiency of your wind vane self-steering system. Ideally, before engaging the device, ensure that your sails are appropriately trimmed for optimal performance based on existing weather conditions. Fine-tuning this aspect will allow for smoother operation and minimize any unnecessary strain on both boat and gear.

2. Get Acquainted with Your System:

Understanding how every component in your wind vane self-steering system works is vital for seamless operation. Familiarize yourself with all cables, lines, blocks, attaching points, and mechanical adjustments within your setup through careful study of instructions provided by manufacturers. Additionally, consider practicing installation and removal procedures before setting sail to save time during maintenance or repairs at sea.

3. Devise Efficient Linkages:

Connecting your wind vane to the ship’s wheel or tiller requires creating a linkage mechanism that transmits the vane’s signals accurately. Carefully select and adjust mechanical linkages, ensuring that they offer proper responsiveness and minimal play. Remember, any slack in these connections will decrease accuracy and compromise performance.

4. Experiment with Tension:

Fine-tuning the tension on your wind vane’s lines is essential for achieving optimal response. Experiment by adjusting the tension – both tightness and looseness – of these lines based on prevailing conditions such as wave heights, wind strength, course changes, or boat speeds. This flexibility allows you to adapt your wind vane self-steering system according to real-time situations and enhance its efficiency.

5. Observe Nature’s Cues:

Nature can be an exceptional teacher when it comes to utilizing wind vane self-steering systems effectively. Observing how wind shifts affect your vessel’s course during different weather patterns will help you develop a keen sense of understanding impending changes in wind direction. By balancing this observation with data from meteorological sources or barometers, you can anticipate shifts ahead of time, allowing for precise adjustments even before they happen.

6. Make Incremental Adjustments:

Once your wind vane self-steering system is activated, it is essential not to make abrupt adjustments unless absolutely necessary. Instead, opt for small incremental changes when altering course or sail trim. Gradual adaptations ensure smoother transitions without overwhelming the device with sudden demands.

7. Continuously Monitor Performance:

Constant vigilance is key while learning to master your wind vane self-steering system completely. Continuously monitor its performance by observing your boat’s behavior relative to sea conditions (weather helm, leeway). Appropriate awareness combined with timely tweaks ensures efficient operation throughout extended voyages.

8. Seek Expert Advice:

When seeking mastery over any subject matter, there is no substitute for expertise gained through experience and shared wisdom. Engage with sailing communities, forums, or seek advice from seasoned sailors who have honed their skills in wind vane self-steering. Their firsthand experiences and clever tricks will provide invaluable insights to propel your learning curve forward.

In conclusion, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering is a journey that requires practice, experimentation, and understanding. By grasping the basics, fine-tuning sail trim, learning your system inside-out, observing nature’s cues, and making incremental adjustments while monitoring performance attentively, you can unlock the true potential of this remarkable piece of sailing technology. So hoist your sails high and let the wind vane guide you towards a new realm of solo or small crew sailing prowess!

Choosing the Right Wind Vane Self Steering System for Your Boat

When it comes to sailing, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of gliding through the open waters, with the wind in your hair and the sun on your face. However, navigating a boat can be a challenging task, especially when you’re all alone out on the vast ocean. That’s where wind vane self steering systems come into play.

A wind vane self steering system is an invaluable piece of equipment that allows sailors to maintain course without having to constantly adjust their sails or helm. This automated system harnesses the power of the wind to steer the boat, freeing up valuable time and energy for sailors to focus on other important tasks.

But with so many different options available on the market, how do you choose the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat? Here are some key factors to consider:

1. Boat Size and Weight: The first thing you need to take into account is the size and weight of your boat. Wind vane self-steering systems come in various sizes designed to accommodate different vessels. It’s important to choose a system that is specifically built for boats within your size range to ensure optimal performance and stability.

2. Ease of Installation: As a sailor, you want a wind vane self-steering system that can be easily installed without requiring extensive modifications or additional support structures. Look for systems that come with clear installation instructions and minimal hardware requirements.

3. Weather Conditions: Sailors know that weather conditions can change rapidly at sea. Therefore, it’s essential to select a wind vane self-steering system that can handle a wide range of weather conditions – from light breezes to heavy winds and high seas. Look for systems that are durable and capable of maintaining control even in challenging weather scenarios.

4. Sensitivity Adjustment: Every boat handles differently based on its design and load distribution. To ensure precise control, choose a wind vane self-steering system that allows you to adjust its sensitivity to match your boat’s characteristics. This flexibility will enable you to fine-tune the system for optimal performance and responsiveness.

5. Reliability and Durability: When you’re out on the open water, you rely heavily on your equipment. Therefore, selecting a wind vane self-steering system from reputable manufacturers known for their reliability and durability is crucial. Look for systems made from high-quality materials that can withstand the harsh marine environment for years to come.

6. Cost: While cost should never be the sole determining factor, it’s still an important consideration when choosing a wind vane self-steering system for your boat. Evaluate different options and compare their features, performance, and price tags to find the best value for your money.

Now, armed with these essential considerations, you can embark on finding the perfect wind vane self-steering system that suits your boat and sailing needs. Remember to carefully research different products and consult with fellow sailors or experts if needed. With the right wind vane self-steering system onboard your boat, you’ll experience smoother sailing adventures like never before!

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Wind Vane Self Steering

Introduction:

Wind vane self-steering systems are a remarkable solution for sailors aiming to harness the power of the wind to navigate their vessels. By allowing the wind to guide the boat’s rudder, these systems reduce manual effort and provide a more reliable means of steering. However, like any piece of equipment, wind vane self-steering systems can sometimes encounter common issues that require troubleshooting. In this blog post, we will delve into some possible problems and provide professional, witty, and clever explanations on how to overcome them.

1. Lack of responsiveness: One frustrating issue that sailors may encounter with wind vane self-steering is a lack of responsiveness. If your system seems sluggish or fails to react promptly to changes in the wind direction, there are a few potential causes.

Explanation: Just like us humans after an indulgent Thanksgiving dinner, wind vanes can become lethargic too! The most common culprit for unresponsiveness is excessive friction within the system caused by wear or improper lubrication. To tackle this issue, start by giving your system a good inspection. Look for any signs of wear on bearings and joints while applying lubrication generously where needed (Think spa day for your wind vane). If this fails to resolve the problem, it might be worth checking if any foreign objects or debris have made their way into critical components – just imagine trying to navigate gingerly during peak pollen season!

2. Oscillations and instability: Unwanted oscillations or instability in your self-steering system can make sailing feel like riding a bucking bronco! This issue can be concerning and potentially dangerous if left unresolved.

Explanation: Imagine you are attempting to steer straight but your trusty wind vane has gained an affinity for dancing instead – quite embarrassing! The primary reason behind oscillations and instability is often an imbalance between sensitivity settings and sail trim (imagine mismatched dance partners). Adjusting both variables can help find the sweet spot. Additionally, thicker or heavier sails may contribute to excessive oscillations, so it might be time to reassess your sail wardrobe and consider adopting a lighter ensemble for smoother sailing (we all deserve a wardrobe makeover now and then!).

3. Misalignment and wandering: Has your wind vane suddenly decided to become an explorer, sailing in any direction other than the one you intended? Misalignment and wandering can occur due to various factors.

Explanation: Picture this – you want your wind vane pointing north, but instead, it decides it wants to discover hidden treasures in the opposite direction – quite the rebellious spirit! Misalignment is commonly caused by incorrect installation or loose connections between the wind vane and the boat’s rudder. Ensure that all parts are securely fastened with the precision of a complicated jigsaw puzzle (but without the frustration). When resolving misalignment issues, imagine you are showing your wind vane some tough love – tighten those nuts and bolts until they can’t even think about misbehaving!

Conclusion: While wind vane self-steering systems generally offer efficient steering solutions for sailors, encountering common issues is not uncommon. By understanding these challenges and implementing our witty troubleshooting advice, your wind vane will be back in shape in no time. Remember, a witty approach combined with professional expertise ensures smooth sailing both on water and through blog posts!

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The purpose of a wind-vane self steering device is to allow the skipper to do something other than sitting at the helm. While this is not practical for most un-ballasted small sailboats, a self steering device is an essential tool for the cruising sailor. Graham has been testing the wind vane on his  Core Sound 17 Mark 3  which has an excess of stability and is a perfect candidate for self steering. Following its success we have scaled up the mechanism which is built with modest tools and materials to work for larger boats up to 30 feet. 

We are pleased to offer our wind vane design as a set of downloadable plans and instructional documents revealing all the dimensions and ratios used as well as recommended materials and construction methods for building this simple cheap and effective system at a fraction of the cost of an off the shelf system. Graham's design is based on his decades of experience building wind vane self steering gear since the 1970's and the tips and tricks for setting up a simple to build and reliable system are all conveyed here. The plans for our wind vane include full size templates for all the critical parts along with the dimensions and ratios used. A builder's guide covers recommended materials and things to watch out for as well as details of construction. All you have to do is adapt the system to work on your boats transom configuration. To learn more about our system and if it might be a good fit for you just keep reading. 

How a self steering wind vane works. Short version. The “vane” part in the air provides the input to the rudder. The upper part of the system (the input or vane) is rotated such that it points into the apparent wind once the boat is on course. When the boat gets off course, the force of the wind hits the side of the vane causing it to lean over or in some cases rotate which in turn produces a correcting movement on the rudder. This turns the boat back on course until the vane is once again back to a neutral location. The trick to this is getting the right proportions, feedback and ratios of the vane, rudder, trim tab and control linkages. 

Our Design Requirements

1. Low Friction : The name of the game is LOW FRICTION with wind vane self steering devices. We accomplish this with polished stainless steel against uhmw plastic for a cheap and reliable low friction connection. 

2. Kick-up Auxiliary Rudder : This was a MUST HAVE for our shallow draft boats and not a feature we have seen on ANY other wind vane designs with an aux. rudder. The rudder pivots on a pin at the top of the transom and is held down with a line on a breakaway cleat. 

3. Trim Tab Control : The aux. rudder is controlled by a trim tab that is actuated by the movement of the wind-vane (the part in the air). It's mesmerizing to watch and works completely without batteries or power. 

4. Adjustable vane : The wind vane itself pivots on a horizontal axis that is inclined slightly. This creates an important damping effect in the actuation of the tab so that as the vane tilts it loses power because its projected area decreases. This reduces “hunting” and oversteering and unnecessary oscillation of the input to the rudder. 

5. Removable vane : As with most systems, the vane is completely removed or replaced in seconds and can also be tilted back to increase the damping effect for high winds or made more vertical for light air which increases power. It can also be swapped out for a larger or smaller vane in lighter or stronger conditions. 

6. Adjustable from anywhere in the cockpit : With the addition of a control wheel we can spin the upper part of the vane assembly 360 degrees using a control line routed around the cockpit. This means we can make small adjustments to the direction of the vane from anywhere you can reach the control line. 

-Note that there are features we did not incorporate but may be important to some. One such feature is an emergency tiller. This allows for the use of the auxiliary rudder if the main rudder becomes inoperable. We would certainly want this feature on an ocean going cruising boat. If you build the auxiliary rudder up to reach the top of the transom then this is not difficult to do. Our kick up auxiliary rudder makes this a bit more of a challenge but a tiller tube can be fitted to reach a socket without much difficulty. 

How does our wind vane system work...“I love it when you talk technical.” Our design uses a horizontal pivoting wind vane to control a trim tab on an auxiliary rudder. ( n this configuration, the vessels main rudder does the heavy lifting of keeping the boat generally on course essentially acting like a fixed skeg when the wind vane is engaged. The main rudder and most importantly the sails are adjusted first to balance the helm and then locked off with a tiller clutch. The auxiliary rudder then keeps the boat on course with small adjustments using a trim tab to amplify the power from the wind vane.

carlita-windvane-small.jpg

But will it work on my boat? … yes but! There are literally dozens of ways to control a boat using a wind vane. Here are a few  put into a nice chart we found on one of the many commercially available wind vane self steering gear company websites. The most common systems are auxiliary rudder systems and servo pendulum systems. If you prefer a  servo pendulum system or your boat is better suited for one then you can still use the vane assembly from these plans and simply adapt the lower unit however we do not show details for a pendulum in these plans.  Servo pendulum gears can generate great power but they are not easy to build and come at a higher cost due to the stronger materials and complicated parts required. They also rely on additional lines and rigging running through the cockpit. We feel an auxiliary rudder or trim tab system offers the best all-around self-steering device for most boats especially for low cost and simple construction methods.  A balanced auxiliary rudder can generate as much power as you need for most boats and has the benefit of being a redundant rudder in the event you need it. In addition, a super low power electronic autopilot like the pypilot can be connected directly to the trim tab or auxiliary rudder to steer a course while motoring for example.

We once installed an auxiliary rudder wind vane on a 45’ steel sloop one third of it’s way into a circumnavigation. It completed its way around the world even though the boat crashed onto a reef in Venezuela. The skipper shipped the auxiliary rudder while the boat pounded. After being dragged off the reef, and with the spade rudder inoperable, the aux rudder steered the boat to port where the main rudder and other damage was repaired. The owner said that the wind vane rudder which was equipped with an emergency tiller mount saved the boat.

The most cited disadvantage of an auxiliary rudder system are that they don't kick up and they require the construction and mounting of an extra rudder. Kicking up is an important feature and one we didn't want to give up especially for our smaller trailable boats.  Our auxiliary rudder can be tilted completely out of the water when not in use.  This is accomplished with some careful geometry and clever mounting BUT it is best suited for nearly vertical  or forward raking transoms. You can still fit an auxiliary rudder to a transom with reverse rake but it is typically done with a very strong vertical tube bolted to the transom at the top and bottom with braces extending diagonally low to the waterline for support. This requires some complex geometry and custom mounting brackets so it is a bit more challenging to mount.  If you are fitting a wind vane self steering system to a boat with an existing transom hung fixed (non kick up) rudder then a trim tab added directly to the main rudder may be a better solution for your boat and our wind vane would be easily adapted in this case. 

The real challenge of mounting. “No size fits all.” Production self steering units will supply various kits and tubing and brackets to help make their systems fit your transom with just a few bolt holes carefully placed. Even with those systems it's up to you to mount it correctly and this will be no different.  You will, without a doubt, need a custom mounting solution for your boat and you are the best person to design and build it! The system we are offering here is but a single example of a configuration fitted to a vertical or forward raking transom of our own design. We can’t help everyone mount this system to their individual transoms and there are probably some sterns that will really be challenging. You may need to design your own rudder for example using the parameters and ratios we offer in our plans as a guide in order to meet the needs of your transom configuration. This is for you to figure out! Remember, being a D.I.Y’er (also known as a sailor) is all about saving money by not charging yourself for the time it takes you to do stuff!

Limitations of a mechanical self steering device... What’s the “Ketch”? Wind vanes are not for everyone and one you build yourself has its own unique challenges to boot. A mechanical wind vane cannot blindly follow a compass course but instead must follow the ever-shifting wind direction and balance of the boat as wind and seat state change. On very fast boats, the apparent wind direction shifts so much that a wind vane is somewhere between useless and dangerous. Cruising cats can be fitted with wind vanes but typically an electronic autopilot is more practical due to their higher speeds. A mechanical wind vane relies on the wind speed being greater than the boat speed which for the vast majority of cruising boats is usually the case. On the current crop of large single handed around the world racers, automatic pilots have become so sophisticated they require training of the computer as they learn the boats behavior during high speed breakaways. 

If you are travelling at displacement speeds with a bit of surfing thrown in and if you do not have unlimited power and money and if you do not mind making small adjustments to the boats trim and self-steering gear as the wind shifts, you will have a loyal assistant that never grows tired or needs feeding. 

Staying in trim A good sailor keeps his boat in trim and a happy wind vane is one that is sailing a boat that is already balanced as well as possible. If your boat is heavy on the helm already then you may need the extra power provided by a servo pendulum system. If you have a hard time steering your boat, a wind vane (any wind vane) will too. 

Space requirements Highlighted below on Graham's Core Sound 17 Mark 3 'Carlita'. Our design requires open space above the transom so it won't work on a standard Core Sound 17 for example due to the proximity of the mizzen sheets. The addition of a boomkin allows the mizzen sheet to be behind the reach of the wind vane sail in the case of the CS-17 Mk3. Likewise a yawl with long mizzen boom will be a challenge as the mechanism must be mounted far behind the transom.

A few notes from Graham....

"Horizontal axis vanes and servo pendulum paddles are the most powerful self steering systems and are certainly required for large or heavy handed vessels. Carlita is a light well mannered boat and requires finesse rather than brute force. If you have not already seen the self steering video, check out the video and answer your own question. She is running almost straight downwind and surfing. After this video was taken she surfed to a little over 10 knots without misbehaving." 

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Above, Graham steering his then unpainted Core Sound 17 Mark 3 Carlita with all sails flying in the 2016 Everglades Challenge. Note that this earlier version of the kick up wind vane employed a vertically pivoting vane which was converted the more recent version afterward. Vertically pivoting vanes have less power but do offer some advantages such as being able to just point into the wind when not in use. (photo Patrick Johnson)  

Graham continues...

"The key is an ultra light vane and very low friction. The lead counter weight is just 6 oz on Carlita's system. to balance the vane. This makes the vane very responsive and reduces friction and lowers the mass moment of inertia. The next important feature is differential feedback in the linkage. This means that when the vane kicks the servo tab over and the tab turns the auxiliary rudder, the angle of the tab is rapidly reduced. If you do not have this feature the boat will hunt badly down wind where there is no natural balance from the sails as you do when close hauled. The whole thing is a delicate balance between power and feedback."

In the video below, Graham sails Carlita a Core Sound 17 Mark 3 with the wind vane rudder disabled and in the "raised" position and the boat steers herself with proper sail trim to windward. Notice that the tiller is simply lashed. 

"I want the rudder fixed to aid directional stability. Before engaging the vane, I try to find the sweet spot for the rudder and lock it. I will then observe the course after the vane is engaged for a while and I may rotate the vane or move the tiller slightly. Usually I adjust the vane first. It is a powerful little vane and will tolerate a fair amount of imbalance. All self steering systems hunt but the better everything is balanced the less oversteering there will be.

If you do not enjoy fiddling then a wind vane may not be for you. Naturally they are worthless in waterways because the wind is too shifty. But It did do a great job last week running down the Cape Fear River. The GPS showed a top speed of 8.75 knots and the speed was rarely under 6, at least 3 knots of that was current." -Graham Byrnes

Tiller Clutch (standard)

wavefront marine

Tiller clutch (standard).

B&B Windvane Self Steering Plans

B&B Windvane Self Steering Plans

Yachting Monthly

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Windvane steering: why it makes sense for coastal cruising

  • Will Bruton
  • October 15, 2018

No electricity needed, built for gale-force conditions and currently experiencing 
something of a renaissance amongst 
cruisers; windvane self-steering makes sense for coastal cruisers as much as 
offshore voyagers. Will Bruton took 
an in depth look at the options 
and how they work.

Self steering gear on the back of a boat

‘The distance run was 2,700 miles as the crow flies. During those 23 days I had not spent more than three hours at the helm. I just lashed the helm and let her go; whether the wind was abeam or dead aft, it was all the same: she always stayed on her course,’ wrote Joshua Slocum in 1895.

The ability of his long-keeled Spray to hold course without input from the helm was instrumental 
in making her the first yacht to circumnavigate single-handed.

Few modern boats bear these inherently balanced characteristics, so some form of autopilot is necessary to allow the skipper to rest.

Even for crewed passages, it can take an enormous strain off the crew without draining the battery. Some insurance companies even count windvane steering as an additional crew member, such is its contribution to life on board.

Self steering gear on the back of a Golden Globe Race yacht

Unlike an electronic autopilot, self-steering needs no power

One solution experiencing something of a renaissance, is windvane self-steering.

Requiring no electricity, mechanical self-steering gear was first designed in an age when autopilots were the preserve of large ships and heavy motor cruisers. The principle is relatively simple and pure physics.

What mechanical self-steering cannot do is hold your yacht on a compass course. However, as anyone that’s experienced a sudden wind shift or squall whilst away from the helm knows, steering to a wind angle is preferable most of the time as you are far less likely to crash gybe, and the sails remain correctly set.

Self-steering gear achieves this by presenting a vane directly into the wind. When the wind acts on either side of this vane, it tips, transferring this action through the mechanism below to either a rudder or a servo pendulum which acts on the main rudder, altering the boat’s course.

The two main systems

Servo-pendulum

A derivative of the servo-trim tab principle invented by Blondie Hasler, servo-pendulum self steering gear uses the speed of the yacht going through the water to push against the servo-paddle, creating a substantial force, which is then transferred to the yacht’s own tiller or wheel by control lines.

The wind itself does not provide the power for the steering; rather it adjusts the angle of the paddle, relying on the hydro-mechanical energy of the boat going through the water to do the work of steering the boat.

Popular before the advent of the small craft electronic autopilot, it’s particularly well suited to yachts under 40ft in length, and can be swung out of the water when not in use.

There are now several derivatives, including some available as a self-build kit. Amongst the Golden Globe Race entrants, models included Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort systems.

One disadvantage of the servo-pendulum gear is that it uses the yacht’s rudder, meaning it does not double up as an emergency rudder should the yacht’s steering be disabled, although some servo-pendulums can be adapted.

Direct drive systems

Wind vane steering linked to a secondary rudder is the most inherently simple of the mechanical self-steering systems, but relies on a much more powerful transmission of force between a large-surface-area wind vane and the system’s own independent rudder.

Direct drive self steering gear

Direct drive systems feature a large fully independent auxiliary rudder

This has the advantage of ensuring 
a back up steering method is already on board but also requires a heavy-duty installation to bear the load and strain that will be exerted.

One of the most popular models is the Hydrovane, which is now available in several different sizes and shapes depending on 
the boat it is being installed on.

The size 
and shape of the fabric-covered windvane is directly proportional to the size of yacht, and has been installed successfully on yachts in excess of 50ft in length, including multihulls.

When the boat veers off course, the 
wind hits the vane on one side or the other, deflecting it away from the vertical.

This then acts on a gear that converts 
this sideways movement into rotation to directly steer a relatively large rudder suspended from the boat’s transom via 
the installation framework.

Setting up windvane steering

Balancing the boat.

‘Before doing anything, you have to get the boat sailing well. It demands you take the time to get your boat properly balanced, correctly reefed and with no weather helms; so it actually makes you a better sailor!’ explains Nick Nottingham, who recently fitted a Hydrovane to his Hallberg-Rassy 42, Spellbinder . Nick is about to use the system on an Atlantic circuit.

Self steering needs a balanced boat

Self-steering relies on a well balanced boat. As the wind shifts, the mechanism corrects

Self-steering gear works by adjusting the yacht’s course in relation to the apparent wind. The first step to making this work as efficiently as possible is to balance the boat and reduce the amount of input required.

Sailing conventionally, the yacht should be easy on the helm and not overpowered.

Setting the system for the conditions

Whether servo-pendulum or direct drive, most self-steering systems have one or more methods of adjustment for the conditions. In light airs, the wind vane will be exposed as much as possible to the wind, to exert the maximum force on the system, whereas in heavier weather, the vane’s height can be lowered, reducing the force acting on the system.

Some systems, like the Hydrovane, Monitor and Beaufort have different sized vanes that can be swapped, while the Windpilot and Aries allow the vane to be raked aft, presenting a shorter level.

Engaging self steering

With the wind vane attached, you are ready to remove the locking pin and engage the steering mechanism

On some set ups, the power exerted on the steering system can also be adjusted at the point where the wind vane meets its pivot, just like changing sensitivity on an electronic autopilot. By controlling the rotation of the rudder or paddle created by the windvane, you control how aggressively the system corrects the boat’s course.

Changing the gearing at the point where the wind input creates the steering output achieve an increase or decrease of ratio.

Engaging the system

To engage the system, set the yacht on course and adjust the wind vane so that the wind is flowing over it with the least resistance, like a blade.

If you a using a system with its own rudder, centralise and lock the yacht’s main rudder, simultaneously engaging the self-steering mechanism.

Self steering gear

Once engaged, monitor how the system adjusts and double check your sails are trimmed correctly.

As the vane moves it will adjust the steering accordingly.

In heavy weather, reduce the system’s power to ensure the least amount of strain.

Self-steering systems work efficiently in strong winds but most will steer comfortably in light airs as well.

Course adjustments

When the wind vane is vertical, you are on course. When the vane is deflected, the system is adjusting course.

Changing the direction you want to go in is simply a matter of altering the self-steering system’s vane angle relative to the wind.

A man wearing a blue top pulls on line attached to a yacht's self steering system

On most systems this is achieved by a steering line that can be run into the safety of the cockpit, meaning you do not necessarily need to adjust the vane itself directly.

Make small adjustments until the yacht comes onto the desired course, trimming the sails appropriately.

A standalone system?

Whilst self-steering systems offer a much more resilient option than an electronic autopilot for heavy weather, when there is no sailing wind, they cease to be useful.

Self steering gear with an electronic tilletpilot

Here an electronic tillerpilot has been plugged directly into the Hydrovane auxiliary rudder

For this reason, most cruisers also have a conventional electronic autopilot on board to steer under engine.

In the case of systems incorporating a rudder, many also make it possible to easily engage a tiller pilot onto the system’s auxiliary rudder for use under engine.

Self-steering on the Golden Globe Race

If there’s one place that mechanical 
self-steering fandom bordered on the evangelical this year, it was at the start of 
the Golden Globe Race .

50 years previously, Robin Knox-Johnston’s world first single-handed circumnavigation was steered by his own self-steering gear system until it failed 
near Australia.

Restored to her former glory, 
Knox-Johnston’s Suhaili joined the parade; along with Indian competitor Abhilash Tommy’s replica yacht Thuriya , which sports a commercially made Windpilot servo-pendulum system.

self steering gear and the tiller of Suhaili

Self-steering gear on Suhaili. Credit: Nic Compton/Alamy Stock Photo

With this year’s revival competition using 1960’s technology and electronic wizardry strictly prohibited, mechanical self-steering systems are effectively the only option for competitors. Each has chosen carefully.

Competitors in the race are using a variety of systems including Hydrovane, Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort.

Due to the nature of the boats competing being long keeled, they are ideally suited to mechanical self-steering, naturally holding course better than a modern hull. However, should systems fail and prove unrepairable, it will be hard 
for them to remain competitive in the race.

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What’s the best autopilot kit for a transatlantic?

Yachting World

  • August 4, 2023

Over 250 transatlantic skippers from the most recent ARC fleet report back on the efficacy and reliability of their self-steering and self-sufficiency equipment

self steering small sailboat

Few cruising skippers would argue with ocean sailing guru and founder of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) Jimmy Cornell when he says some form of self-steering is ‘essential for any boat that is going to be sailing offshore for any length of time’. Yet there is no requirement from World Cruising Club (WCC) for yachts participating in any of their ocean rallies to have any system at all installed.

Either way – essential or not – anyone who has endured a long enforced watch at the wheel of a yacht will testify that while steering a course can be a pleasure, being unable to leave the helm can also be a nightmare at sea.

More than 250 vessels took part in the most recent series of WCC rallies across the Atlantic – 142 entered the 2,700-mile ARC from Gran Canaria to St Lucia; 92 entered ARC Plus from to Grenada via the Cape Verdes Islands, and 30 entered ARC January, which is the same route as the November ARC.

The questions we asked each of these crews focussed on self-steering and we also asked for each skipper’s three top self-sufficiency tips. We wanted to know which was the most popular self-steering method, how the equipment performed, what went wrong and what the top tips are for successful self-steering at sea.

self steering small sailboat

If a self-steering system needs to pilot your yacht for thousands of miles do you choose electronic, windvane or both? Photo: Oyster Yachts

Autopilot vs windvane

Of the 230 complete responses to the questionnaire (out of a total of 251 yachts that finished one of the three separate events) there were five yachts that sailed without any form of self-steering. Other than them, every yacht had an electronic autopilot fitted – no-one that we know of sailed with windvane only, although 33 yachts had windvane systems fitted as well as autopilots, and some windvanes were in fact used as the primary system. Monohulls make up the majority of yachts fitted with windvane self-steering, but there were two catamarans using them (out of 65 multihulls overall) as well.

self steering small sailboat

Windvanes are still a popular option for some, though mostly used as a back up. Photo: ARC2022

Electronic autopilots are obviously now the dominant technology in self-steering and the most modern refinements, such as the 9-axis sensor, sailing specific algorithms and the powerful remote controls, have improved usability over the last decade.

The average boat in the fleet is around 15 years old, while the average electronic autopilot installation is half that age. While there’s no denying that there’s still a place for vintage kit – some were using pilots from Raytheon dating back 30 years – it’s worth mentioning that the questionnaire results do indicate that the older the boat, the lower the rating given to the self-steering gear (even though not all older boats carry old autopilots!).

Even the smallest vessel in the fleet, the 9.75m long catamaran Ciel Bleu , used a tiller pilot while the smallest monohull, Canadian flagged Venturi I , relied solely on a Raymarine pilot.

The next biggest yacht, 1980 Hallberg-Rassy 352 Petoya Too , had both a windvane and an autopilot fitted. Petoya Too ’s German skipper Thomas Klemens recorded using his boat’s 10-year-old Raymarine ST1001 wheelpilot for one hour a day and the two-year-old Hydrovane windvane for 23 hours per day.

Performance reviews

There are now three main suppliers for autopilot equipment in the ARC fleet: Raymarine, B&G and Garmin. Just under 55% of respondents used Raymarine control units and a further 34% used B&G. Furthermore the split between Raymarine and B&G was almost identical for the choice of course computers. Garmin was the third most popular option with 6% or 15 boats using their products.

The pumps/drives were evenly split: one third hydraulic; one third linear and the remaining third split between wheel, rotary and tiller drives (in that order).

Sixty-seven skippers rated their autopilot control unit/head/display 5 out of 5, while 112 rated theirs 4 out of 5. That’s 80% of autopilot respondents. And in a related finding from the survey: 156 (63%) rated their yachts’ course/drive computer at 4 out of 5 or 5 out of 5. This can only be interpreted as a huge vote of confidence in autopilot technology.

Seventy-five boats reported problems with their autopilots, 56 of which were encountered on the ocean crossing (rather than the ‘shakedown’ sail to Las Palmas from mainland Europe). Digging into the details of those problems reveals that skippers demand perfection but will still cede control to the unit even if performance levels drop significantly.

Drive unit problems made up 45% of the issues encountered – that’s 25 drive units across the fleet that were deemed unsatisfactory by over 250 transatlantic skippers. Just over 20% of problems were traced back to the course computer or the control unit, which leaves 30% (approximately) of problems in the ‘don’t know category’.

self steering small sailboat

Photo: SV Bluewater Mooney/ARC2022

Problems and solutions

Many skippers gave their self-steering equipment quite high ratings and then went on to raise multiple issues with the overall performance or installation or reliability of their set-ups. It makes for an interesting read, and leads us to conclude that for most skippers even a poorly functioning self-steering system is better than nothing.

We discovered multiple references to autopilots as people, or crewmembers with foibles and idiosyncrasies: The skipper of Amandla Kulu advises feeding the autopilot coffee and biscuits, while the German skipper of Petoya Too described his Hydrovane as: ‘a full crew who needs no food – happy with it all the time.’

Not all windvane systems were quite so highly rated. The skipper of Malouine made a positive report on the yacht’s self-steering: ‘She is doing a good job, but takes a lot of energy, so we prefer using the Windpilot’ – which is typical praise of ‘free’ self-steering windvane systems over previous ARCs. They averaged eight hours per day on autopilot, stating: ‘we turned off the autopilot in squalls/strong winds so that it lasts for longer and has less wear and tear.’

They relied instead on a 30+ year old Windpilot for up to 10 hours per day, but even that wasn’t smooth sailing all the time: ‘Working unless the wind is coming directly from behind, then she zigzags and too big waves make her steer off course.’

self steering small sailboat

A reliable self-steering crewmember can make all the difference for a relaxing smooth passage. Photo: Tor Johnson

The 2011 UK-flagged Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 45DS Optimistic was another of the belt-and-braces boats with autopilot and windvane on board. The boat’s hydraulic drive unit, computers and sensors worked perfectly for 22 hours per day on the crossing (via Cape Verdes), but the skipper reported problems with the Hydrovane instead: ‘The Hydrovane rudder broke on day two of leg one. It was repaired in Cape Verde then snapped in half on day two of leg two.’

His verdict: ‘Hydrovane did everything in their power to help me out in this situation. Their support and customer service has been very good,’ yet he concluded: the Hydrovane ‘cannot cope with big waves’. His top three tips for self-sufficiency: ‘1. conservative sail plan at night 2. good preparation 3. good tools and spares.’

Usually, windvanes take over the steering when/if autopilots fail. However there was another UK-flagged large monohull for which the opposite was true. Paul Cook, skipper of Esti , a 1996 Moody 44, was very impressed with his recently installed Raymarine ACU-400 with hydraulic ram. ‘It saved us and performed perfectly. We found the “wind vane” mode to be perfect for optimising wind shifts,’ he said. So although he didn’t need to rely on the failed windvane rudder, he pointed out that without it he’d lost his main emergency steering system.

self steering small sailboat

Back up autopilot switch system on a Nautitech 46. Photo: Chet Chauhan

Autopilots aren’t without their share of faults though. South African skipper Darrol Martin took part in the ARC Plus aboard his 1988 Amel Mango . He and his crew took apart their Raymarine rotary drive unit multiple times en route to Las Palmas as well as once during the ocean passage. Despite a professional installation less than four months before the start of the event, Martin reported that the drive gears were ‘mismatched’ and the screws were too small and ‘not strong enough to hold’.

On passage to Mindelo, they made repairs using spare ring gears and planetary gears bought in Las Palmas and reported: ‘After 4th repair, it worked perfectly for 2nd half of the crossing.’ This was followed up by some further advice: ‘Get a windvane as backup. Autopilot is not robust.’

Article continues below…

Pip Hare explains how to get the best from your autopilot

How to set up your autopilot to sail faster, more comfortably and be more efficient

Pip Hare explains how setting your autopilot to suit conditions will be faster, more comfortable and more efficient

sailing-autopilot-systems-macif-ultime-racing-yacht-aerial-view-credit-Vincent-Curutchet-ALeA

How new-age sailing autopilot systems are putting computers at the helm

A couple of decades ago I’d have recommended anyone planning an ocean crossing without a big crew to fit wind…

Thirty boats crossed the startline for the ARC January, including skipper Paolo Santagiuliana aboard his virtually brand new Neel 51 trimaran Chica 3 . The boat was fitted with the Zeus 3 chartplotter/multifunction display, which he rated 4 out of 5, but Santagiuliana found that the sensors feeding the data to his B&G drive unit via a H5000 CPU resulted in ‘very frequent ROUTE OFF’ messages. He rated the pilot’s performance as ‘very poor’ in the second half of the crossing and lamented not bringing spare sensors, but he had made provisions for such a failure by fitting a second autopilot.

‘We arrived thanks to the second one. The limit of the second one is that it cannot be fully interfaced with the B&G Zeus so you can’t automatically follow the wind, you have to manually modify the route.’ The H5000 has now been recalibrated: ‘narrowing the value of rudder gain, auto trim and counter rudder that were too large, generating a wide variation of route when the wave was more than 2-3m. I have to say that the software is much less easy for a normal sailor used to other brands.’

self steering small sailboat

Photo: James Kenning/SV Falcon

Skipper Edgar Sesemann aboard 1998 Van Dam Nordia 55 Saphir af Stockholm gave middling ratings to his six-year-old Raymarine linear drive autopilot, but his secret weapon for ‘excellent’ autopilot performance?

‘I have two autopilot systems: One is the Raymarine with two mechanic linear drives that work together directly on the rudder quadrant (one pull, one push) and it makes it very strong. They both get the information from the same course computer.

‘The second autopilot is the Mamba drive that was the original autopilot on Saphir and it works by the wires to the rudder quadrant. It’s totally separated from the Raymarine system and has only compass heading. It has also been upgraded with a new separate course computer.’

self steering small sailboat

eremy Snyder has both hydraulic and electric autopilot drives on his stunning Bestevaer 56ST Falcon Spirit, but had to swap out the Raymarine rudder sensor when it failed. Photo: Photos: Jeremy Snyder

Sesemann describes the value of a backup system, particularly for a double-handed yacht on long passages. ‘We got the experience in bad weather on the North Sea crossing from Inverness to Denmark. My wife was seasick and I had to hand steer for 20 hours in 5-6m waves. After that, the second autopilot was installed.’

Self-sufficiency

This year’s final question could be an article all of its own: ‘What are your three tips for keeping your yacht reliable and being self-reliant at sea?’

Klas Gunnar Johansen, skipper of 2001 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 52.2 Blue Sunshine reported ‘two downwind sails ripped in the squalls and acceleration zones off Cape Verdes, plus the autopilot failed, as did the radar.’ The autopilot was an Autohelm ST6000 fitted in 2001 and he wrote: ‘Made a service on the unit prior to passage but it failed us on passage and we had to hand steer from day 2-12’. His top tips? ‘1. A thorough inspection before the passage 2. Three walk-arounds a day 3. A creative mindset.’

Dutch skipper Willem Henry Spek was one of several to carry both autopilot and windvane self-steering and he was glad to have the redundancy aboard.

self steering small sailboat

he 2022/ early 2023 ARC crossings were relatively trouble-free for a combined total of over 250 yachts. However, Grand Soleil 54 Take Off was dismasted 1,550 miles from St Lucia. Showing impressive self-sufficiency the family crew continued on to the Caribbean under jury rig and engine. Photo: Tim Wright/photoaction.com

His venerable autopilot set-up on board his 2008 Bavaria Vision 44 included the ST6002 from Raymarine, now discontinued, which he discovered being ‘very greedy with DC power’ from the batteries due most likely to the system ‘hunting’ or over-correcting. He had to adjust rudder damping and response to reduce the power and smooth out the course when under autopilot. He also had to replace some nuts and bolts with Nyloc nuts.

The redundant unit was, it turns out, the windpilot, which he decided to dismantle because of concerns over its installation. Additional problems included the freezer not staying cold and some tears in the sails. His 3 tips for self-sufficiency: ‘1. Redundancy. 2. Know your kit so you can repair. 3. Spares and tools.’

The fleet’s smallest yacht was a British-flagged 1988 Fountaine-Pajot Maldives 32, which was driven 24 hours a day by a Raymarine ST2000 tiller pilot. Skipper Jonathan Walmsley carried two complete spare autopilots but didn’t need to use them, even when his primary pilot started behaving erratically. His top tip for tiller pilot owners is to fit a waterproof cover (including on the ram).

He also suffered starter motor failure, hence his top three tips for self-sufficiency across the Atlantic were: ‘1. Two methods of engine start 2. Complete spare autohelm 3. Know and understand all your boat’s systems’.

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Wind Vane Self Steering Gear

A wind vane self steering system is not an essential piece of equipment on a sail boat.

However, for anyone who sails alone or cruises short handed over long distances the benefits can be immeasurable.

Long tricks at the helm are exhausting, concentration wanes, essentials such as eating, trimming sails, navigating, sleeping etc are neglected.

Besides that, with a self-steering system set and the sails trimmed you will have time to relax and really enjoy the ride.

  • About Self Steering.

The Basic Mechanics.

Types of vane., building your own vane..

  • Your Comments

Self Steering Wind Vanes

The first time that a wind vane was used to cross an ocean it was on a motorboat, or so I'm told.

Today however, electronic auto pilots are much more reliable at holding a course and the power to drive them is not an issue as most engines are fitted with alternators which constantly produce electricity.

However, a wind vane gear is best solution for a sailing boat and not just because of the power issue.

Wind direction offshore tends to remain relatively constant over long periods, but there are always constant minor variations and gusts.

In order to keep the sails drawing at maximum efficiency, while maintaining a set autopilot course, they would have to be constantly trimmed.

Wind vanes on the other hand will slavishly follow any wind shifts, a good one will often do it better than most humans and do it for hour after hour without tiring.

As well as not requiring any battery power, the windvane does not have any complex electronics which, will be vulnerable to damp and that are unlikely to be repairable without spare parts.

Many of the simpler vane gears can usually be repaired or rebuilt using non-specific parts and lashings.

And you can even build one by yourself.

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to Search for books on Self Steering from an Independent Book Shop Near You.

Prior to the development of windvanes long distance sailors such as Joshua Slokum and Eric and Susan Hiscock relied on their boat’s natural ability to bold a course.

Others used systems of blocks and lines between the sails and the tiller.

One of the most common used setups for downwind sailing was using poled out twin headsails, with the sheets lead back to the tiller so that when the pull on one sail increased, the tug on the tiller would bring the boat back on course.

These methods required the sails to be set for balance rather than speed, which is fine for the cruising sailor.

However, the increased interest in long distance short handed racing prompted the development of vane gears.

In the first Singlehanded Transatlantic Race in 1960 all five entrants used vane gear.

Wind Vane Basics

The whole point of a wind vane steering gear is to provide feedback to the rudder so that the boat can remain at a set angle to the wind, 'in the groove'.

  • This will not be a steady compass course but a constant point of sail.
  • First you sail the boat on the desired compass heading.
  • Then you trim and balance the sails for this course.
  • Once the boat is trimmed the vane is set and the gear engaged to steer the boat on that point of sail.

So how does it work?

There are numerous variations to the mechanics of the linkages types of vane etc but they all work on the same basic principle.

The vane is set so that it is feathering when the boat is in her groove.

Wind Vane Baics

Any variation to this angle to the wind will cause the vane to rotate.

The linkages then transmit this rotation to the rudder in such a way as to bring the boat back on the desired heading.

With the boat back on its correct heading the vane and thus the rudder will return to its original position.

In theory the vane could be mounted anywhere where the wind across it is unobstructed.

However it has somehow to be connected to the rudder by some form of mechanical linkage, so the most logical position for it is on the transom.

And it is the linkage which performs the magic.

When the boat drifts off the wind the vane will rotate or flip with the wind, this movement then must be transmitted to the rudder as a turn in the opposite direction.

In the case of a simple vertically rotating vane, as the boat turns clockwise away from the wind direction the vane will rotate in and anti clockwise direction relative to the boat.

This rotation then needs to be transmitted to the rudder to turn it clockwise, relative to the boat, this will then turn the boat anti clockwise until she is back in the groove.

Once set up a vane gear can be very effective.

Setting up is however a matter of getting the balance correct.

Like your sails the wind vane needs to be set according to the apparent wind, the sails rudder and vane need to be in balance.

Because the vane is subject to the apparent wind it will be less effective on a run and in light airs.

In the very simplest of self steering vane gears as the vane pivots the movement is transmitted via lines directly to the tiller.

On others the vane acts directly on a secondary rudder.

However the force provided by a wind vane alone is rarely sufficient to make this system work with large boats.

To overcome this, variations such as the servo pendulum system, invented by "Blondie" Hasler have become widespread.

These systems harness the power derived from the motion of the boat through the water to help turn the rudder.

  • Vertical Trim-tab
  • Horizontal Trim-tab
  • Vertical Servo-pendulum
  • Horizontal Servo-pendulum

Vertical-Vane Trim Tab.

This is without doubt the easiest wind vane self-steering device to understand and build.

The vane is vertically pivoted and controls a trim tab on the rudder.

This can be either the main rudder or an auxiliary one.

I had this type of gear on my previous boat and it took me far and wide.

It isn't the most accurate of gears however with some judicious use of bungee to dampen any tendency to yaw it served me well.

Not only is it simple to build and operate but its very simplicity gives it an uncomplicated elegance.

When I built the new rudder for Mignonne I designed it so as to incorporate the vane gear.

Horizontal-Vane Trim.

This horizontal vane gear also operates on a trim tab.

However the vertical vane is set by turning it on its turret until the vane stands as nearly vertical as possible.

Because it tilts proportionally to strength as well as direction of the wind it is a more powerful version of the vertical-vane.

And there is less tendency for the boat to yaw.

Vertical- Vane Servo-pendulum.

On the vertical-vane servo-pendulum invented by Blondie Hasler, the vertical wind vane is connected to the servo blade.

As the pendulum, or servo blade, is turned by the vane it is forced aside by the its movement through the water.

It is this force which is then transferred to the tiller or wheel by means of the linkage.

The main advantages are that the stronger the wind, the faster the boat speed, the greater is the force is applied to the rudder.

Horizontal- Vane Servo-pendulum.

The servo-pendulum with a vertical wind vane has become the standard for most commercially produced wind vane systems.

While there are differences in their methods of transmission, the basic principle is the same.

The most popular among cruising sailors is the Monitor because of its rugged construction and because most parts can be fabricated and repaired relatively easily.

While these commercially produced systems are robust, perform silently and very near flawlessly on all points of sail, they are very expensive.

Trim Tab Wind Vane

The easiest and least expensive type of boat to fit a wind vane to is one like Mignonne which has a transom-hung rudder and tiller.

This uses the vane to control a small trim tab on the trailing edge of the main rudder.

The trim-tap controls the main rudder in the same way a trim-tab works on an aeroplane wing.

As the tab turns in concert with the vane, the rudder is deflected in the opposite direction thus turning the boat.

If you are designing your own vane, whatever the style there are several details to keep in mind.

  • The vane must be as sensitive as possible, which usually means large and light.
  • Friction must be kept to a minimum, preferably with non corrosive bushing such as Teflon.
  • The tab needs to be narrow and deep yet clear of the bottom of the rudder to avoid damage.  
  • Whatever linkage you use should not be affected by movement of the main rudder.  

The vane I have used on Mignonne was inspired by an idea from one of Lin and Larry Pardey’s books.

Rather than use the usual plywood panel I made a wooden frame to support a sailcloth vane.

My vane like the rest of the boat is still very much a work in progress and the present vane really needs to be larger, I knocked it together from off cuts and leftover bit of sailcloth.

However, creating it to look like a small mizzen sail has the added advantage of fitting it into the overall look of the boat.

Also the light weight needs less of a counterbalance.

My main fear from using a trim-tab was how it would be affected when motoring astern.

Trim Tab Wind Vane Gears

The usual advice is to have a locking device to center the tab, but I know from experience how easy it is to forget something like that until it is too late.

So what I have done is attack the tab with enough clearance between it and the trailing edge of the rudder to allow it to rotate through 360 degrees.

This type of trim-tab also seems to work best where there is an angle between the axis of the rudder and tab pivots and if the linkage is sited where these cross.

Because the trim-tab turns in the same direction as the vane the linkage is direct.

The only provision needed is a method of allowing the vane to be set according to the wind direction.

I used a disc of a Tufnol like material which was relatively easy to shape yet is hard wearing, I have heard of someone who used a bicycle drive cog to good effect.

The latch is just a piece of metal hinged so that its own weight causes it to engage and it is controlled with a simple lanyard.

My greatest fear about using the wind vane is if I should fall overboard and have to watch my boat merrily sailing away form me.

OK, that can happen without self steering which is why I always (well nearly always) clip on when I'm sailing alone.

I have read suggestions about trailing a long line with a float on the end, umm, that’s ok if you are able to swim to it in time to catch it, I’ll stick to my harness and safety-line thanks.

And remember that while a wind vane might do a great job of helming your boat it won't keep a lookout, that’s still your responsibility .

However, I have found that being relieved of the need to helm allows me more time to look around.

And on the subject of looking around don’t forget that extra bit of gear sticking out of the transom when docking mooring and going astern.

Also remember that your vane can only react after the boat has moved off course, it isn’t able to anticipate the sea conditions or wind shifts.

If you do need to make an emergency course change the wind vane mechanism should be easy to disengage.

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A guide to equipping your boat with an electronic autopilot or windvane: Part I  (published October 2013)

Since the earliest days of long-distance solo or shorthanded sailing, a variety of devices have been invented for holding a boat on her course without the need of a constant helmsman. One of the early—and for many boats, still useful—methods was called “sheet-to-tiller” steering, which balanced the forces on a mainsail’s sheet against a spring or shock cord to steer the tiller in the appropriate direction when the boat would heel and reverse the direction when she would start to round up. This is obviously a delicate balance that required careful and often time-consuming readjustment when a course change or wind shift occurred.

Along with sheet-to-tiller steering came windvanes, which use a variety of methods to transfer a course change into a rudder angle using various paddles or vanes attached at the stern of the boat. Then, with the dawning of reliable electronics came motor-driven electric “autopilots” with a variety of methods for operation and all with the requirement for electric power and various instrumentation sources.

Today, a dizzying array of self-steering gear exists and it’s often difficult to know where to start. Some kits costs more than a small boat, and others can be made or cobbled together from spare parts in a garage. But by understanding the principles, major options, advantages and caveats of the various gear on the market, a prudent skipper can choose the right self-steering gear for his or her boat with confidence, knowing it will suit the boat in all conditions.

MAJOR CONSIDERATIONS The major questions and choices when faced with the purchase of new self-steering gear are: What conditions the unit is expected to perform in; what are the possible failure modes, how to recover from them, and how to detect or prevent them when underway; whether to get an electronic unit, windvane or both; where to mount the components and how to attach them to the boat; and last but not least, how much should ongoing maintenance and the expected service life of the gear be considered?

I’ve listed the options in this order because the most important thing about self-steering gear is whether or not it suits the conditions it is expected to operate in, including whether or not it is a good match for the vessel. The decision between an electronic autopilot and a windvane can only be made when a skipper decides these other issues first. After that, the decision becomes a technical one between models and options.

In order to help the skipper understand which equipment makes a good match for what conditions and vessel, it’s helpful to go into some detail on the various components and options available. So in this first of two articles on the topic, let’s dive more deeply into the realm of the electronic autopilot.

WHY CHOOSE AN ELECTRONIC AUTOPILOT? Since ships started installing electrical equipment onboard, the electronic autopilot has become a go-to self-steering device for both sailors and powerboaters alike. Combined with an electric or optical compass, all an autopilot needs to keep a boat on a constant magnetic heading is electric power. With the advent of data networks aboard, wind and GPS instrumentation can be combined with the autopilot to steer to waypoints, maintain a constant wind angle like a wind vane, steer specific patterns in the sea (e.g. circles, grids, or holding position for fishing or search-and-rescue), and perform many other clever tricks that a simple wind vane cannot do. And, of course, the electronic autopilot can do all of this whether or not the wind is blowing. As a result, electronic autopilots are nearly ubiquitous on most modern sailboats.

Electronic autopilots require three main components: a drive unit, a compass—usually called a “fluxgate compass” or for short, “fluxgate”—and a processing module, or “brain”.  The processing module may or may not require a separate display and control interface, or it may incorporate it directly, and any or all of these components may be included in the same physical device. Make sure your autopilot package includes all of them though, or you may have to spend significantly more money later.

There are two major categories of electronic autopilots and quite a variety of options within those categories. The differences are crucial to your boat and to the system’s reliability, so it pays to at least take a cursory glance at some of these important details.

TILLER AND WHEEL PILOTS The most common category on small boats, a tiller or wheel pilot is an electronic motor attached to either a sliding lever or a spinning gear that is connected to the ship’s own tiller or wheel to physically move the boat’s rudder. Simple to install and easy to understand, these are typically the least expensive devices and are usually only reliable up to a certain amount of rough sea conditions, after which they often don’t have the power to keep handling the helm. In addition, they are constantly exposed to salt spray, and attachment and dismounting results in a certain amount of wear and tear over time. However, they are simple to understand and use and for smaller boats are often perfectly sufficient as long as the expectations on the system are reasonable. There are a few wheel units these days that have been used with success in heavy seas offshore, but they are rare and require a well balanced or easily helmed boat and are subject to limitations on rudder size and force.

Tiller and wheel pilots often, but not always, integrate the processing module and the drive unit in the same housing, simplifying use even further. They do not, however, offer anything in the way of redundancy over and above a ship’s own steering system, as they are dependent on that very system to perform their job.

Often, a skipper will fit a tiller or wheel pilot as a backup to a windvane when they decide that a wind vane is most suitable for their vessel.

BELOWDECKS PILOTS The common “upgrade” on a tiller or wheel pilot is to affix a control system belowdecks, often directly to the rudderstock itself as a backup to the ship’s main steering cables or tiller. This provides a degree of redundancy as well as protecting the main drive unit from the elements. In addition, because the system is permanently mounted, a larger and more durable motor and connection system can be fitted if desired, further increasing the reliability of the installation.

There are a variety of methods to attach these pilots to the rudderstock. The one you choose will likely be dictated by the type of steering your vessel already has, although you may have some choices between a few similar options.

For sailboats, the most common drive types are either rotary gear drive or linear drive. As the name suggests, rotary gear drive mechanisms have a motor with a reduction gear that, through a heavy chain, spins another gear affixed to the rudder shaft, similar to how a bicycle’s pedals spin the rear wheel through a pair of gears and a chain. Linear drive units work like a tiller pilot in that they extend or retract an arm that is affixed to a steering quadrant belowdecks. These can either use the existing quadrant on a rudderstock, or a special quadrant or lever arm can be bolted to the rudderstock specifically for the autopilot, like a miniature tiller belowdecks. Rotary gear systems are typically used with ships that have worm gear steering or similar solid-shaft coupling between a wheel and the rudderstock. Linear drives are more commonly used with cable steering.

There is usually only one option for boats with hydraulic steering, and that is an electronic hydraulic pump controlled by your autopilot. These can require special care during installation depending on if the existing system has proper backflow valves to allow for secondary control or not, and may require interlocks to be installed to prevent simultaneous operation of both hydraulic drivers at once. This is beyond the scope of this article though, so consult a knowledgeable steering gear installer for assistance with your particular hydraulic setup.

INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS Autopilots require careful mounting consideration, as the forces involved can be tremendous. Since modern belowdecks electronic pilots turn the main rudder directly they are subjected to the full force of the rudder, which, on a downwind run in heavy seas, can be severe. The mounting and rudder attachment for the drive unit is therefore critical and can involve construction of new structural framing, modification of the rudderstock to handle the additional loads or other significant rearrangements of existing equipment.

Mounting the processing module is less critical, but the display units definitely need to be accessible from the helm, and often, to maximize use of the self-steering gear, a belowdecks display and control station can duplicate what is at the helm.

Something to keep in mind with electronic autopilots is that, given the forces involved, they can require a substantial amount of energy to operate. As the seas get heavier, the unit has to work harder, which means the energy used by an autopilot increases. It is important then to pay close attention to your energy supply early and to monitor it more often as the seas build.

COMMON FAILURE MODES Electronic autopilots, while often quite reliable, are still mechanical and electrical devices and as such, have failures. Apart from the obvious need for a continuous and copious electrical power supply, they work with very delicate compass sensors and many types of drive units can be subjected to the wear and tear of every rudder movement whether they are in use or not. A failure in any one of these components can render the autopilot unable to operate, and failures in fluxgate compasses tend to be more common than manufacturers would like to admit. Also, wiring itself is subject to corrosion, accidental disconnection and chafe. All it takes is for a single control or power wire to become disconnected at the wrong time, say in heavy wind and a following sea, or when close to and passing a large vessel in a narrow channel, and the boat can be put in a dangerous situation very quickly. Thus, a prudent sailor treats the electronic autopilot like any other piece of gear and plans for failure while maintaining the equipment to the fullest.

One surprising failure mode I have had the misfortune to observe firsthand is with a hydraulic autopilot that was a separate system from a hydraulically steered boat. The systems worked perfectly when used independently and offered 100 percent redundancy in control—at least, as long as the boat had power and the rudder remained intact. But when the autopilot was engaged and the helm was touched by someone, the two immensely powerful hydraulic rams fought each other and the resulting back and forth vibration and side loading destroyed a rudder bearing in very short order. So it pays to have interlocks installed when other hydraulic steering systems may be in place simultaneously with a hydraulic autopilot.

Look for Part II in the November issue of BWS where we will cover windvane self-steering in detail, and consider how to best determine what you should be equipping on your own vessel.

Daniel Collins, an ASA certified sailing and navigation instructor, amateur extra class radio operator and small boat racer, enjoys experimenting with marine electronics. He is also actively involved in community-driven social change. Email him at [email protected] , or read his blog at www.oddasea.com .

Author: Daniel Collins

Windy Selfsteering

self steering small sailboat

Tough, strong and reliable self steering

self steering small sailboat

New Windy coming soon

Model Windy (servo-pendulum, currently not available) feedback and nice blog:

Sailblog Yacht Flirtie, Voyager 40 Blog1: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/483079 Blog2: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/483286 Blog3: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/

About ProVane

ProVane is designed for a larger boat with wheel (also suits for tiller) and it has emergency rudder ability. ProVane can be mounted off-center.

It’s rudder is 300x1100mm and also the windvane is large, 520x1000mm. ProVane is stand alone system, auxiliary rudder type, no steering lines in cocpit for the wheel.

Advantages over electric autopilots:

  • It does not require electricity for its operation.
  • Robust and simple construction. 
  • Emergency rudder with tiller.
  • Vessels rudder system does not wear on longer trips.

Dimensions PDF:

proVane dimensions

For better understanding user manual is downloadable by this link here (Google Drive):

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Take a closer look at our product

self steering small sailboat

Make your sailing experience more enjoyable

Nb no new orders will take new orders in august. apologies.

Text goes here

Text goes here also

Selfsteering equipment idea was born while I was sailing around the world across three oceans on a 31-feet yacht.

On the last leg from South Africa to Cabo Verde, flight home being less than 4000 nm away, the old noname self steering gear broke down when a bigger breaker hit the yacht from the side.

This gave me a reason to start developing a new self steering system that would be stronger. The idea was to build the cheapest windvane on the market that would still keep its strength and quality. By now Windy windvane has successfully sailed across the Atlantic ocean many times.

S/Y Bellatrix

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Sailing With a Windvane

  • By Alvah Simon
  • Updated: December 9, 2019

Sailomat Windvane

Once found only in the ascetic realm of single-handed sailing, self-steering gear has become ubiquitous on cruising boats, even fully crewed ones. That’s because a self-steering unit serves as an additional hand that possesses relentless concentration at the helm; subsists on only amps or lubricants; and, if properly trained, does what’s asked of it without question or complaint.

Reliable remote control of the helm relieves the fatigue and monotony of following a compass course at night. It allows time for sail changes and adjustments; horizon sweeps for ships; attentive navigation; and that quick dip below to check the bilges and grab a hot drink. Without question, self-steering makes for a more relaxed, enjoyable and safe voyage.

But the debate over which kind of self-steering is best for a sailboat — electric or windvane — rages on. I may be an old-fashioned belt-and-suspenders kind of sailor, but I believe both systems have their different strengths and weaknesses, and therefore complement each other. In other words, any vessel that is configured in a way that can accommodate both methods should do so.

In this scenario, the more robust mechanical sailboat windvane would be employed in heavier weather, while the electric autopilot would be used in light airs and under power, where directional corrections are provided not by the wind, but by a fluxgate compass. It is important to understand that while the electric autopilot maintains a steady compass course, a windvane is set to maintain a desired angle off the apparent wind, and therefore will follow any wind shifts or changes in wind velocity. While this does keep the sails perpetually in trim, the course must be monitored closely when in confined waterways.

That said, if forced to choose, I would go with the mechanical windvane, hands down. Vanes don’t rely on the ship’s electrical power supply, which serves as the last link in a long chain of delicate electrical components and breakable mechanical parts. Across the range of types and brands, mechanical windvanes generate amazing power in rough conditions (when needed most), coupled with notable durability. Almost 30 years ago I purchased an already well-used Aries windvane. It has faithfully followed me from boat to boat, and around the world, with clear indications that it will outlast me. On the other hand, I have an overflowing box of spare parts cannibalized from the many electric tiller-pilots I have chewed through in that same period.

Aries windvane

Types of Sailboat Windvanes

Introduced by the indomitable Blondie Hasler, founder of the OSTAR solo transatlantic race in 1960, the original sailboat windvane consisted of a direct coupling of a horizontally rotating (vertical axis) vane to a trim tab on the aft edge of a transom-hung rudder. Once the vane was fixed to the desired angle off the wind (using a round base plate with notches spaced at 5-degree intervals), any course change rotated the large vane like a weathercock. This in turn twisted the tab to one side of the main rudder, driving the rudder in the opposite direction, thus bringing the vessel back on course. The advantage to this system was its ease of construction and low cost, but it was best adapted to the waning style of transom-hung rudders. Also, a large vane was required to harness sufficient wind to power the trim tab. Therefore, especially in light airs, the tall, heavy vanes often reacted more to the yaw and roll of the vessel than to the wind, resulting in erratic meandering.

However, from this early and rudimentary concept, two sophisticated yet distinct types of vanes evolved: the servo-pendulum system (SPS) and the auxiliary rudder system (ARS). Both SPS and ARS systems employ a counterweighted horizontal- or vertical-axis wind vane to activate an appendage in the water, but the similarities end there. (To confuse the issue, there is now a hybrid system called the servo-driven auxiliary rudder, or SAR. But by first addressing the two basic concepts, a clearer understanding of this marriage of ideas will emerge.)

The SPS system — best represented by brands such as Aries , Cape Horn , Fleming, Monitor and Sailomat — uses the movement of the windvane to horizontally turn an independent servo-rudder (essentially a separate oar or paddle) that is deployed into the water. As the boat moves, the laminar flow of water presses against the positive lead on the servo-rudder, generating sufficient power to aggressively swing the servo-pendulum, or windvane, in one direction or the other.

While it is the power of the wind that directs the angle the servo-rudder presents to the passing water, it is boat speed through that water that exerts the considerable pounds of pull on the lines that run from the servo-rudder and through a series of turning blocks, ultimately connecting to the tiller (or, in the case of wheel steering, a drum in the center of the wheel). More simply, the servo-rudder does not turn the boat; it pulls on the tiller or rotates the wheel, which in turn moves the main rudder.

Perhaps the main drawback to this concept is the limited throw of the lines, as the distance of arc through which the pendulum swings is limited to the width of its supporting frame, an average of approximately 10 inches. This is no issue when connected to a tiller because one can fix the lines at the optimum point on the helm: high for more power, lower for a greater turning angle. But depending on the stop-to-stop ratio of a wheel steering system, the length of pull may not be sufficient to effectively control the vessel. This problem can be exacerbated by center-cockpit designs, as longer line lengths may stretch more, further limiting the effective length of pull.

The ARS system, best represented in the market by Hydrovane , employs an altogether separate appendage to steer the vessel. The boat’s main rudder is usually fixed amidship (or angled slightly to offset a lee or weather helm) and a second, auxiliary rudder, directed by a windvane, takes control of the steering. Thus, it is not only a self-steering device, but can also serve as an emergency rudder. Considering that all four of the Mayday calls I monitored on one of my Pacific crossings related to steering failure, this redundancy has considerable value. Because of the forces placed on this rudder it must be robust in construction, well fixed to the vessel, and of sufficient design and size to handily maneuver substantial tonnage.

Monitor windvane

Pros and Cons of Sailboat Windvanes

There is a heated online debate among some of the manufacturers and distributors of the respective systems, each dismissing the supposed advantages of the other’s design concept while touting their own. I have sailed with both servo-pendulum designs and auxiliary rudders and found both to be practical and reliable; the final decision, to me, comes down to the type of vessel to which they will be attached, the steering system onboard, the conditions of sailing most likely to be experienced and the budget. In my opinion, the auxiliary rudder is more sensitive in light air, which is the average condition found in many recreational sailing areas. I’ve found the servo-pendulum model to be rock steady in conditions so rough that the average helmsperson would be exhausted within an hour.

But there are advantages and disadvantages to each approach. For example, the auxiliary rudder windvane has no provisions for being lifted out of the water to clear flotsam and seaweed; it can affect the backing characteristics of a vessel; and there’s no dedicated, engineered, breakaway “weak spot” when colliding with something like a submerged log. (In such instances, most servo-pendulum rudders simply flip up out of the way, and are popped back in place with the pull of a line.) On the other hand, auxiliary rudders don’t require lines that obstruct the decks and cockpit, a significant advantage depending on the placement of the helm.

To the latter point, perhaps too much is made of the difficulty in fixing, releasing and adjusting the tension of the lines on an SPS windvane. I corrected this problem with a $5 double jam cleat. Instead of using the typical link in a chain to connect to the tiller, I run my lines through an eye bolt on the tiller and back to the jam cleat. I can ease or tighten the lines balancing friction with precision; introduce infinite increments of bias to help balance the boat; and even when under tremendous pressure, immediately release the lines in an emergency situation.

A subtle but potentially important advantage of the SPS windvane is its natural aversion to broaching. As a steep wave slams into the quarter, the vessel can violently swing sideways. However, this same sudden sideways force pushes the servo-rudder in a direction that immediately tries to turn the boat back down the face of the wave. But even that point could be countered with the claim that by fixing the large main rudder in place, as in an ARS, substantial lateral stability is added to the vessel, thus minimizing any penchant to broach.

When mounting either system, the latest sailboat design trends — open, aft-entry cockpits and drop-down transoms — present new challenges. Hydrovane makes the unequivocal claim that its ARS windvane can be mounted off-center without affecting performance. Offsetting the vane opens access to the sugar scoop and/or the boarding and swim ladders. But as drop-down transoms, in particular, become ever beamier, there is less flat and fixed space available for robust windvane mounting. Depending on the stiffness of the vessel, one would not want to push the vane too far outboard for fear of lifting the auxiliary rudder clear out of the water on a heavy heel.

All SPS manufacturers stress the importance of meticulous centering during initial installation. Adapting to these new transoms, Monitor has introduced the SwingGate system to its windvanes. This is essentially a pivoting pushpit, much like a garden gate, with the vane attached. When the gate is open the boarding platform or swim ladder can be accessed, and when the gate is closed the vane sits firmly fixed amidship.

While completely appropriate for trimarans, windvane steering is not well suited for catamaran designs due to the dual rudders and high bridge-deck clearance.

As to pricing, there is no denying that the basic ARS units cost from 25 to 40 percent more than SPS models. Acting as the boat’s main rudder demands that the auxiliary rudder and mechanisms be constructed from heavy, high-quality materials. But if one chooses the swing-gate option, the additional cost of the gate structure must also be factored in.

Autohelm ST400 tiller pilot

Summing Up Self-Steering

When choosing a self-steering system for your sailboat, closely assess the design features of your boat and the conditions you will most often encounter. If you intend to make any kind of extended passages, consider a high-quality mechanical self-steering unit, possibly coupled with a lighter electrical system. Often, the two can be combined, offering the precision of fluxgate steering with the power and toughness of mechanical systems (see “ A Hybrid Self-Steering Solution “).

After the initial expense of purchase and installation, there will be no piece of equipment on your vessel more prized than your mechanical self-steering. I don’t know of a single long-distance sailor who has given a name to the roller-furling system, nor of one who has not named the windvane. Be it SPS or ARS, called Esther or Otto, trust me, out there on the Big Blue you will have many long and meaningful conversations with it.

But like all relationships, this one requires practice and patience. First and foremost, do not ask the windvane to make up for sloppy sailing. Balance your boat, starting with waterline trim. Keep the weight out of the ends and ensure that the sails are appropriately sized, set and trimmed to the conditions. Excessive heel is not only slow, but places the boat on lines that the designer never intended, resulting in poor tracking. Ensure that the windvane is not blanketed by superstructure or fed turbulent air via barbecues, solar panels or davits. Experiment with different settings, such as blade angle and line tension, to understand and optimize performance in various conditions.

Models that employ a mix of metals should be disassembled, cleaned and lubricated regularly to minimize electrolysis. When reassembling, use a high-grade barrier cream on all fasteners.

All models benefit from an occasional bath of scalding-hot fresh water to dissolve any buildup of salt, minerals and solidified grease.

And finally, for those concerned that these protruding, industrial-looking structures may ruin the lines of an otherwise lovely vessel, remember: “The rougher it gets, the better they look.”

Windvane on sugar scoop

Windvane Manufacturers

Aries Vane Gear ariesvane.com and ariesvanegear.com Cape Horn Marine Products Fleming Marine Hydrovane International Sailomat USA Scanmar International Voyager Self Steering Inc. Windpilot

Two-time circumnavigator Alvah Simon is a CW contributing editor. This article first appeared in the July 2014 issue of Cruising World as “A Vane to Steer Her By.”

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self steering small sailboat

Small Craft Advisor

self steering small sailboat

Self-Steering

When you’re sailing a steady course for hours at a time, or you’re singlehanding and just need a break....

self steering small sailboat

If you’re navigating a narrow channel or where there’s a lot of traffic, you don’t need it. But what about longer distances and wide open water? Or when you’re sailing a steady course for hours at a time, or you’re single-handing and just need a break. Self-steering sure would be nice. What are the options?

Tiller Combs and Locks

Tiller combs can be as simple as a wooden rack to fix the tiller at several positions or a “flip up” slot and vane rig. A length of bungee cord and a jam cleat on the tiller handle can provide “infinite” adjustment in light winds (see, for example, “Simple Tiller-Tamer” in Small Craft Advisor #98 ). And Tom Pamperin shared a really slick solution—a “bungee shackle” around the tiller handle—on the Small Boats website. A more sophisticated DIY tiller-lock is the “ Huntingford Helm Impeder ,” which is credited to England’s Dinghy Cruising Association. Assembled from bungee cord, some cleats and a fairlead, its advantages are infinite adjustment of resistance and direction, and less sensitivity to attachment of the athwartship control line. Here’s a YouTube video showing how it works. Christine Berven solved her Tiller-Tamer’s slack line issue by adding a bungee and block, similar to the impeder ( Small Craft Advisor #113 ). Tiller locks from Davis and Wavefront are effective and fairly low cost solutions. And if they’re not fancy enough, Duckworks BBS now markets a high-tech Swedish “friction wheel clutch” tiller controller ( duckworks.com/tiller-lock-kit ).

self steering small sailboat

While the big advantage of the home-brew and commercial “tiller-tamers” is simplicity, they all seem to work best if the ends of the control line are brought back to the transom corners, as shown above. They’re usually only good for a short break while you keep a weather eye on the sails and traffic because as soon as the wind shifts or you cross a wake, you will probably need to readjust the tiller. But if you stay close to the helm, a tiller-tamer or comb might be all you ever need.

Sheet-Steering

When sailing on a fixed heading for long stretches, bored—and sometimes desperate—sailors have figured out how to use a sail to help steer the boat to the wind. For example, while circumnavigating on GANNET, his Moore 24, solo-sailor Webb Chiles related how he dealt with the dead electronic tiller-pilot in cruisingworld.com/simple-self-steering . Sailing to windward, he successfully balanced the sails and locked the tiller—just as Joshua Slocum, the original single-handed round-the-world sailor, did on SPRAY back in 1895. But while there seems to be universal agreement that sheet-steering must begin with a well-balanced boat—and fair amount of patience, sailing off the wind usually requires more “active control” between sail and rudder—even on Chiles’ highly-tuned boat.

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Sail Away Blog

Learn How to Effortlessly Steer a Sailboat and Enjoy Smooth Sailing

Alex Morgan

self steering small sailboat

Steering a sailboat is an essential skill for any sailor, whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sailor. Understanding the basics of steering and mastering various techniques is crucial for safe and efficient navigation. This guide will provide you with a comprehensive overview of how to steer a sailboat, the different steering techniques, factors that affect sailboat steering, common steering maneuvers, and safety considerations.

The first section focuses on the basics of steering a sailboat. You will learn about the helm, which is the area where steering controls are located, and how to familiarize yourself with the rudder, the primary steering mechanism.

The next section explores different steering techniques for sailboats. You will discover how to use the tiller, a lever connected to the rudder, for smaller sailboats. For larger vessels, the section covers handling the wheel, which is the steering mechanism used.

Factors affecting sailboat steering are discussed in the following section. Wind direction and strength, boat speed and momentum, and weight distribution and balance all play crucial roles in sailboat steering. Understanding these elements will help you navigate your sailboat more efficiently.

The guide then delves into common steering maneuvers that every sailor should be familiar with, including tacking, jibing, and man overboard recovery. These maneuvers are essential for changing direction, adjusting sail trim, and recovering a person who has fallen overboard.

Safety considerations are addressed. It is crucial to keep a lookout for any potential hazards while steering a sailboat. Maintaining control in rough waters requires skill and vigilance. unexpected situations may arise, and knowing how to react and adapt is crucial for maintaining safety on the water.

With this comprehensive guide, you will gain the knowledge and skills necessary to confidently steer a sailboat and enjoy the exhilarating experience of sailing.

Key takeaway:

  • The Basics of Steering a Sailboat: Understanding the helm and familiarizing yourself with the rudder are key components in steering a sailboat.
  • Steering Techniques: Sailboats can be steered using the tiller or the wheel, each requiring different handling techniques.
  • Factors Affecting Sailboat Steering: Wind direction and strength, boat speed and momentum, as well as weight distribution and balance, all play a role in sailboat steering.
  • Common Steering Maneuvers: Tacking, jibing, and man overboard recovery are some of the essential steering maneuvers every sailboat captain should be familiar with.
  • Safety Considerations: Keeping a lookout, maintaining control in rough waters, and being prepared to deal with unexpected situations are crucial for safe sailboat steering.

The Basics of Steering a Sailboat

Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a complete newbie, mastering the art of steering a sailboat is essential. In this section, we’ll dive into the basics of sailboat steering, starting with understanding the helm and familiarizing yourself with the rudder . Get ready to navigate the waters with confidence and gain a deeper understanding of the fundamental components that control the direction of your sailboat. So, grab your captain’s hat and get ready to set sail into the world of steering a sailboat!

Understanding the Helm

When sailing a boat, understanding the helm is crucial. The helm is the control mechanism used to steer the sailboat, typically located at the back. Here are key points to understand about the helm:

  • The helm allows the sailor to control the boat’s direction. By turning the helm, the rudder directs the flow of water, determining the boat’s course.
  • The helm can be operated using different techniques, depending on the type of sailboat and the sailor’s preference. One common method is using a tiller, a lever attached to the rudder, to steer the boat.
  • Another technique is using a wheel, commonly found on larger sailboats. The wheel is connected to the rudder via gears and pulleys, allowing for smoother and more precise steering.
  • Understanding how the helm responds to factors such as wind direction and strength, boat speed and momentum, and weight distribution and balance is essential for effective steering.

Familiarizing Yourself with the Rudder

Understand the purpose of the rudder. The rudder controls the boat’s direction by deflecting water flow .

Identify the location of the rudder . It is typically at the stern of the sailboat , attached to the hull.

Learn how to operate the tiller or steering wheel , which connects to the rudder . The tiller is a handle for manually steering small sailboats, while the steering wheel is used on larger or more complex boats.

Practice turning the tiller or steering wheel to experience how it moves the rudder . Turning the tiller to starboard will move the rudder to port, and vice versa.

The rudder creates water resistance when turned, affecting the boat’s maneuverability. Larger angles are needed for sharper turns.

The rudder can be combined with other sails and steering techniques for specific maneuvers like tacking or jibing.

Familiarize yourself with how adjustments to the rudder impact the boat’s balance and responsiveness.

Fact: The rudder is the main component responsible for steering a sailboat and controlling its direction. Familiarizing Yourself with the Rudder.

Steering Techniques

Get ready to set sail with the ultimate guide on how to maneuver your sailboat like a pro. We’ll explore the art of using the tiller and the nuances of handling the wheel, revealing insider tips and tricks to navigate the waters with ease. Stay tuned for expert advice and practical insights that will have you steering your sailboat with confidence in no time.

Using the Tiller

Using the tiller is essential for effectively steering a sailboat . To navigate the boat with precision and confidence , follow these steps:

1. Hold the tiller securely, maintaining a relaxed grip.

2. Position yourself comfortably near the tiller , ensuring a clear view of the desired direction.

3. If you want to turn the boat right, push the tiller to the left.

4. Conversely, if you wish to turn the boat left, push the tiller to the right.

5. Adjust the pressure applied to the tiller based on the necessary force for the desired turn.

6. While adjusting the tiller , observe the boat’s response and make additional corrections if needed.

7. Keep adjusting the tiller to maintain the desired course.

8. Make smooth and gradual movements to ensure steady and controlled steering.

9. Always remain mindful of the wind’s force and direction, adjusting the tiller accordingly.

By utilizing the tiller effectively, you will enable precise navigation and confident control of the sailboat .

Handling the Wheel

  • Hold the wheel firmly with both hands for a secure grip.
  • Turn the wheel in the desired direction to initiate the sailboat’s turn.
  • Use smooth and gradual movements when turning to maintain stability and control.
  • Be aware of the wheel’s response and make necessary adjustments.
  • Look out for obstacles or other boats while steering.

Pro-tip: Communicate with your crew members , especially during sharp turns or maneuvering in tight spaces. Clear and concise instructions will ensure effective teamwork and a smooth sailing experience.

Factors Affecting Sailboat Steering

When it comes to steering a sailboat, there are several factors that come into play. Understanding these factors is key to maneuvering the boat effectively. In this section, we’ll explore the elements that affect sailboat steering, such as wind direction and strength , boat speed and momentum , as well as weight distribution and balance . By examining these crucial components, we can gain insights into the intricate dynamics of sailboat handling and enhance our skills on the water. So, let’s dive in and uncover the secrets behind successful sailboat steering!

Wind Direction and Strength

When sailing a boat, it is crucial to take into account the direction and strength of the wind. These factors play a significant role in determining the course and speed of the sailboat.

1. Wind direction: Sailors need to have knowledge of the direction from which the wind is blowing. This information aids in planning maneuvers and making adjustments to the sails. Wind vanes or flags on the boat provide guidance on wind direction.

2. Wind strength: The strength of the wind directly impacts the speed and stability of the boat. Sailors must gauge the strength of the wind in order to make appropriate adjustments to the sail settings. Anemometers or wind gauges are instrumental in measuring wind speed.

3. Tacking: When the wind is coming from one side of the boat, sailors can execute a maneuver known as tacking. This maneuver involves changing the boat’s direction by turning it through the wind. Wind direction and strength are crucial considerations when tacking.

4. Jibing: Jibing is another steering maneuver where the stern of the boat turns through the wind. It is essential to take into account the wind direction and strength to ensure a smooth jibe without abrupt changes in the wind.

5. Safety considerations: Strong winds pose challenges in steering and increase the risk of capsizing. Sailors should exercise caution regarding unexpected gusts and navigate carefully in choppy waters. Monitoring changes in wind direction and strength is vital for maintaining control.

By understanding and considering wind direction and strength, sailors can effectively navigate and steer their sailboats, ensuring a safe and enjoyable experience.

Boat Speed and Momentum

Boat speed and momentum are crucial factors in steering a sailboat. The speed of the boat relies on the force of the wind and the efficiency of the sails. A higher speed enables better control and it is crucial to maintain an appropriate speed for smooth steering.

To enhance speed, sailors can manipulate the sails to capture more wind. This can be achieved by adjusting the sails to optimize their surface area and shape. By doing so, the boat can utilize the wind more effectively and achieve greater speed.

Nevertheless, it is essential to find a balance between speed and stability. Excessive speed can render the boat more difficult to control and increase the risk of capsizing. Sailors must remain aware of the boat’s limitations and make adjustments to the sails in order to maintain stability while achieving high speeds.

Momentum also plays a significant role in steering a sailboat. As the boat moves forward, it possesses momentum that influences its responsiveness to steering. The level of momentum determines the speed with which the boat will turn when the tiller or wheel is utilized.

Sailors must anticipate the boat’s momentum and plan their steering accordingly. Abrupt or sudden steering maneuvers can disrupt the boat’s balance and stability. By making gradual adjustments to the helm and taking the boat’s momentum into consideration, sailors can steer smoothly and maintain control.

Weight Distribution and Balance

Weight Distribution and Balance are important for steering a sailboat. Achieving proper weight distribution and balance ensures stability and optimal performance on the water. Here is a table outlining key aspects of weight distribution and balance:

Proper weight distribution and balance help maintain the boat’s stability, prevent capsizing, and optimize maneuverability. Shifting weight towards the bow can improve upwind performance, while shifting weight towards the stern can enhance downwind sailing. Keeping an evenly balanced weight distribution ensures a smoother and more controlled sailing experience.

Understanding and adjusting weight distribution and balance based on sailing conditions and boat type is essential for safe and efficient steering. Sailors should regularly assess and adjust their weight distribution to adapt to changing winds or when performing specific maneuvers.

Common Steering Maneuvers

Looking to master the art of sailing? In this section, we’ll dive into the world of common steering maneuvers that every sailor should know. From the exhilarating tacking technique to the skillful jibing maneuver, and even the critical man overboard recovery , we’ll explore the ins and outs of each maneuver. So grab your sea legs and get ready to navigate the waters with finesse and confidence!

– Prepare the Boat: Ensure sails are trimmed and boat is under control. Check crew readiness.

– Head into the Wind: Steer towards wind until sails luff.

– Change Tack: Shift helm quickly to opposite side, turning boat through wind.

– Trim the Sails: Adjust sails to new tack. Jib/genoa to leeward side, mainsail eased out to catch wind.

– Maintain Course: Steer steady course and make necessary sail adjustments for optimal performance.

Pro-tip: Coordinate and communicate with crew members during tacking. Practice in different wind conditions to enhance sailing skills and maneuvering proficiency.

Jibing is a vital sailing maneuver that involves changing the sailboat’s direction by turning the stern through the wind. Here are key points to consider when jibing:

1. Clear the area: Before jibing, ensure no obstacles or other boats are nearby to avoid collisions or accidents.

2. Prepare the crew: Communicate with your crew members and inform them about the upcoming maneuver so they can adjust their positions and be ready to handle the sail and lines.

3. Choose the right moment: Timing is crucial when jibing. Wait for a lull in the wind to minimize force on the sail and make the maneuver smoother.

4. Release the jib sheet: Start by letting go of the jib sheet to allow the sail to move freely across the boat.

5. Steer the boat: Turn the helm away from the wind, steering the boat in the desired direction. This helps transition the sail over smoothly.

6. Trim the jib: As the sail crosses over, adjust the jib sheet on the new leeward side for proper sail trim in the new direction.

7. Control the mainsail: Ease the mainsheet as the sail crosses over to prevent forceful jibing across the boat.

8. Adjust the course: Once the jibe is complete, fine-tune the course and trim the sails for optimal performance.

9. Be aware of the boom: During a jibe, the boom swings across the boat, so ensure all crew members are mindful of its movement to prevent accidents.

Mastering the jibing maneuver is essential for smooth sailing and effective boat handling. Practice and experience will help improve your jibing skills for safe and efficient execution.

Man Overboard Recovery

When a person falls overboard from a sailboat, man overboard recovery is crucial to ensure their safety. Here are the steps for man overboard recovery :

  • Immediately shout “ Man overboard! ” to alert the crew and provide information.
  • Throw a flotation device or lifebuoy to keep the person afloat.
  • Designate a crew member to continuously keep their eyes on the person, pointing and shouting their location until they are back on board.
  • Turn the engine on and shift it to neutral to decrease the boat’s momentum.
  • Turn the boat in a coordinated manner towards the person. Use the tiller or wheel to steer.
  • Deploy a rescue aid , such as a lifeline or throwable rope , to assist in the man overboard recovery .
  • Approach the person cautiously, reducing the boat’s speed, and maneuver the boat closer.
  • Reach out to the person or use a boat hook to help them grab onto a secure part of the boat.
  • Pull the person on board, maintaining a firm grip.
  • Provide immediate medical attention if necessary and ensure they are warm and dry.

A real-life example of man overboard recovery demonstrates the importance of quick action and adherence to man overboard recovery protocols. In 2021, during a sailing race, a crew member fell overboard. The skipper immediately shouted “ Man overboard! ” and activated the boat’s man overboard recovery system, causing the vessel to automatically turn back towards the person. The crew successfully threw a lifebuoy towards the individual, who stayed afloat until they were safely pulled back on board using a lifeline . The swift and efficient response of the crew ensured the person’s well-being and highlighted the significance of proper man overboard recovery procedures.

Safety Considerations

When it comes to sailing, safety is paramount . In this section, we’ll explore some key safety considerations that every sailor should be aware of. From keeping a lookout for potential hazards to maintaining control in rough waters, we’ll cover techniques and strategies to ensure a safe and enjoyable sailing experience. We’ll discuss how to handle unexpected situations that may arise while out on the water. So, let’s dive in and learn how to stay safe while navigating the open seas!

Keeping a Lookout

When sailing, it is crucial to prioritize keeping a lookout for the safety and navigation of the sailboat. Here are some vital pointers to consider regarding the task of keeping a lookout:

It is essential to continuously scan the horizon in all directions to remain aware of other boats, obstacles, or any changes in weather conditions.

Utilize binoculars to spot objects or boats that are located far away and may not be visible to the naked eye.

Be observant of buoys, markers, and lighthouses , as they can offer valuable information regarding the direction and depth of the water.

Maintain awareness of other vessels in your vicinity . Pay attention to their movements and anticipate potential collision risks.

Keep a vigilant eye out for sudden changes in wind, current, or the state of the sea . These changes may impact your planned course or necessitate adjustments to your sail plan.

Pro-tip: It is always advisable to assign at least one person on board as a dedicated lookout. This ensures continuous monitoring of the surroundings, particularly during periods of high traffic or challenging conditions.

Maintaining Control in Rough Waters

“Maintaining control in rough waters is essential when sailing. To achieve this, it is important to be aware of the wind and waves . Pay attention to their direction, strength, size, and frequency. This information will enable you to anticipate and navigate through rough patches successfully .

Another crucial aspect is adjusting sail trim . It plays a significant role in maintaining control. Find the right balance between power and stability by adjusting the sails accordingly. Having too much sail area can make the boat difficult to handle, while having too little can result in a loss of control.

In rough waters, it is vital to have a firm grip on the helm. Use both hands and make small, precise adjustments to maintain control. Be cautious of over-steering, as this can lead to instability.

In order to improve stability, maintain a balanced stance . Stay centered and balanced in the boat by evenly distributing your weight. Adjust your stance as necessary to counteract the motion of the waves. This will help you maintain control and avoid capsizing.

To enhance your ability to maintain control in rough waters, practice your steering skills in various conditions. Familiarize yourself with the boat’s responsiveness and become comfortable adapting to changing wind and wave patterns. Always remember that experience and practice are key in becoming a confident sailor in challenging conditions.”

Dealing with Unexpected Situations

Remember, experience and practice are key in dealing with unexpected situations while steering a sailboat. Enhance your sailing proficiency and familiarize yourself with different scenarios to effectively handle such situations. Prioritize safety and everyone’s well-being onboard.

Some Facts About How To Steer A Sailboat:

  • ✅ All sailboats have a rudder, which is an underwater movable fin that turns the boat. (Source: Dummies)
  • ✅ Smaller sailboats are usually steered using a tiller, while larger ones are steered with a wheel. (Source: Dummies)
  • ✅ Steering a sailboat is more efficient when the boat is moving faster. (Source: Dummies)
  • ✅ Some sailors prefer a tiller on boats up to 40 feet as it provides a better feel of the water flowing below the boat. (Source: Dummies)
  • ✅ Balancing sailing by telltales and sailing by heel angle is key in blustery conditions. (Source: Sailing World)

Frequently Asked Questions

How can i increase the speed of my sailboat.

To increase the speed of your sailboat, you can adjust the positioning of the sail to capture more wind. This can be done by trimming the sails exclusively to the telltales, which are streamers attached to the sail that indicate the flow of wind. By keeping the sails properly trimmed, you can harness the maximum speed from the wind and increase the overall speed of your sailboat.

Is it possible to steer a sailboat backwards?

Yes, it is possible to steer a sailboat backwards. To steer a sailboat backwards, face forward and straddle the wheel on one side of the helm station. Push the wheel away from you to move the stern away, and pull it towards you to bring the stern towards you. Another method to steer a sailboat backwards is by using the sails or an outboard engine, which can be learned through courses offered by Offshore Sailing School.

What are the physical principles involved in steering a sailboat?

Steering a sailboat involves physical principles related to wind speed and direction, boat size and shape, and water movement. The sail acts as a foil, causing the air current to move at different speeds on each side, creating lift. The keel provides ballast and prevents sideways movement. The rudder and tiller operate as a lever, with a turn accomplished by pushing the rudder through the water. These principles work together to control the direction and movement of the sailboat.

How do I sail the boat in the upwind direction?

To sail the boat in the upwind direction, you can use a maneuver called tacking. Tacking involves zigzagging across the wind, with the bow always facing into the wind. By utilizing the drag force exerted by the keel, the boat can be directed forward and not sideways, allowing you to sail towards the wind without directly sailing into it.

What is telltale sailing and when should it be used?

Telltale sailing is a technique used in lighter winds where the skipper focuses on streaming the telltales attached to the sails for maximum speed. The crew adjusts the heel angle of the boat, and the jib trimmer plays the jib to maintain optimal sail trim. This technique allows for efficient sailing in lighter conditions and should be used when trying to make the most out of light air.

What areas should I avoid while on a sailboat?

While on a sailboat, there are certain areas that should be avoided or approached with caution. These include the path of the boom during a jibe or tack, areas outside of the cockpit where walking or standing occurs, the bow and stern where boat motion is accentuated, and the plane of the jib and jib sheets. It is important to be aware of these areas to ensure the safety of everyone on board and to reduce the risk of accidents or injury.

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