rk 20 sailboat

RK 20 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of RK 20. Built by Coastal Recreation Inc. and designed by Lyle C. Hess, the boat was first built in 1972. It has a hull type of Swing Keel and LOA is 6.1. Its sail area/displacement ratio 19.52. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

RK 20 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about RK 20 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the rk 20.

RK 20 was designed by Lyle C. Hess.

Who builds RK 20?

RK 20 is built by Coastal Recreation Inc..

When was RK 20 first built?

RK 20 was first built in 1972.

How long is RK 20?

RK 20 is 5.33 m in length.

What is mast height on RK 20?

RK 20 has a mast height of 6.4 m.

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Engineering:RK 20

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The RK 20 is an American trailerable sailboat that was designed by Lyle C. Hess as a cruiser and first built in 1972. [1] [2] [3]

The RK 20 is a development of the Hess-designed Balboa 20 , as is the Ensenada 20 . [1] [3] [4] [5]

• 1 Production
• 3 Operational history
• 5 References
• 6 External links

The design was built by RK Industries, a subsidiary of Coastal Recreation, in the United States . It was built between 1972 and 1981, but it is now out of production. [1] [3] [6]

The RK 20 is a recreational keelboat , built predominantly of fiberglass , with wood trim. It has a masthead sloop rig; a spooned, raked stem; an angled transom ; a transom-hung rudder controlled by a tiller and a swing keel or fixed fin keel. The swing keel version displaces 1,950 lb (885 kg) and carries 550 lb (249 kg) of ballast, while the fin keel version displaces 2,220 lb (1,007 kg) and carries 820 lb (372 kg) of ballast. [1] [3]

Two cabin designs were available, a trunk cabin and a raised deck version. [3]

The fin keel-equipped version of the boat has a draft of 3.25 ft (0.99 m), while the swing keel-equipped version has a draft of 4.00 ft (1.22 m) with the keel extended and 1.75 ft (0.53 m) with it retracted, allowing operation in shallow water, or ground transportation on a trailer . [1] [3]

The boat is normally fitted with a small 3 to 6 hp (2 to 4 kW) outboard motor for docking and maneuvering. [1] [3]

The design has sleeping accommodation for four people, with a double "V"-berth in the bow cabin and two straight settee berths in the main cabin. Cabin headroom is 45 in (114 cm). The fresh water tank has a capacity of 7 U.S. gallons (26 L; 5.8 imp gal). [1] [3]

The design has a PHRF racing average handicap of 264 and a hull speed of 5.6 kn (10.4 km/h). [3]

Operational history

In a 2010 review Steve Henkel noted, "the RK20 fixed-keel version would seem preferable, since it eliminates the mechanical problems some owners have experienced with the swing keel." [3]

• List of sailing boat types

Related development

• Ensenada 20
• ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 1.6 McArthur, Bruce (2020). "RK 20" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/rk-20 .  
• ↑ McArthur, Bruce (2020). "Lyle C. Hess 1912 - 2002" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/designer/hess-lyle-c .  
• ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7 3.8 3.9 Henkel, Steve: The Sailor's Book of Small Cruising Sailboats , page 126. International Marine/McGraw-Hill, 2010. ISBN :978-0-07-163652-0
• ↑ McArthur, Bruce (2020). "Balboa 20 sailboat" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/balboa-20 .  
• ↑ McArthur, Bruce (2020). "Ensenada 20" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/ensenada-20 .  
• ↑ McArthur, Bruce (2020). "Coastal Recreation Inc. 1968 - 1981" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/builder/coastal-recreation-inc .  

External links

• Photo of an RK 20
• Sailing yachts
• Trailer sailers

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Any opinions on RK Industries 1978 21 ft

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Looking to buy my first sailboat and have pretty much decided on a swing keel as I plan to sail in the Rehoboth Bay and it has shallow areas and isn't too deep.I'm looking into a 1978 RK Industries 21 ft swing keel and would like opinions.Its only 1500,supposedly an older guy that just wants to get rid of it.No motor is included,sails are supposed to be in good condition,trailer looks good in pics and has new bearings ,wheels and rims.It has a pop top which concerns me for leaks.money isn't an issue so if there's better for the money I'd rather go that route  

Look around for a Catalina 22. Many thousands made, very popular and Catalina support, both from the factory and owners groups are second to none.  

A boat that size I think it really does not matter what kind it is, it is all about condition. It is not like the investment is so much (I know most around here are not made of money, but we are not talking mortgage) if you are not happy you can turn around and sell it for at least what you paid for it. Likely you will want to move up anyway, unless this really fills your future plans.  

Spoken like a person who hasn't tried to sell a 4ktsb lately. Yeah its small money paid. Yeah everything else he said is correct (it's only money)... however, selling an older boat even at cut-throat prices, can sometimes take a while (measured in months if not years). There just isn't a huge market for small sailboats. Given how long I've seen boats listed on yachtworld and sailboatlistings, I'd say it's not a huge market for pretty much ANY sailboat. With that the suggestion of a Catalina 22 is a good one, in that they are very popular and are generally easier to sell then some of the lesser known brand boats. And Catalinadirect is a great source of parts for anything Catalina/Capri. But if you really LOVE the boat, and the condition is what you like... then get it. One's ultimate decision shouldn't JUST be about what the thing is worth when you want to rid yourself of it. Be familiar with what it takes to rehab a swing keel (they nearly always need cable/pivot pin work). Also the trunk can sometimes have some minor crazing and worse damage. Like all boats, look at chainplates, gudgeons, pintles, hatches, through-hulls, and thump the hull for soundness (thud is bad, thwack/tap sound is good). Look for rotting bulkheads. Look for osmotic blisters... Check the mast step (is it square, and flat?)... Pulpits, and stanchions, check for bends (if bent check the deck underneath for cracking or leaks). Check the bow eye (look inside the boat), last 3 boats I've bought had damage to the bow-eye (some monkey probably thought the boat could be lifted from the bow eye). A trailer is involved, so look at the BACK of the tires (where most dry rot is prevalent)... jack up the wheels, spin them, listen for marble in a coffee can sound. Inspect the brakes (if it has them - pull a wheel)... check the actuator (again if it has brakes). Check the ball clasp. Inspect the safety chains. Test the lights. Check the trailer winch, and strap. I could go on for days about this stuff.... NONE of it is a game changer, but put time/money/hours to each of those repair jobs, add it to the listing cost, and ask yourself if it was fixed/repaired is the boat "worth" that kind of cost to you. My last 3 boats cost me about 20-40% more in repairs the first year I had them, and that didn't even include sails. Which leads me to "sails." I LOVE these "sails are OK, or crisp" statements by sellers. Yeah but how OLD are they? Most times they are original! My present boat sold to me, had 18 sails with it. the NEWEST sail, was 2006. It was used for 2 seasons and stored inside. It's probably got about 2-3 more seasons for racing in it... The rest of the sails? 2 original sails (main and 110 were in decent shape, with little use), every laminate sail and there were 5, were FOLDED, and stored, and the lamination blew through on the folds. I DID however, have probably 5 spinnakers with nearly each being in decent and usable shape. My point? PULL THE SAILS OUT!!! they are a HUGE expense (even cheap sails are pricey). Look for stretched (shrunk actually) boltrope on the main (means the sail has been overstretched/wet many times and then sat on a shelf a while to dry/shrink)... look for tears, pulled seams, batten pocket damage... these are all signs of "abused," sails. On a 22 foot boat, you are looking at about $700 for a cheap NEW mainsail. Probably same for a 125% genoa. Also outboards are a huge sticking point for me... boat without motor? Ugh... you'll want at least a simple motor (2 stroke with integral tank)... those will run you about $300-$400 used, and will need some work usually to keep running right. New? Forgetabout it, more like $900. So add up the headaches, put a dollar number, and number of hours on it, that will be required to get the boat/trailer/sails/motor, safe/functional, then you'll have a pretty good idea of what the boat really costs. Congratulations I just made you a small boat inspector.  

Thanks for the input,its really appreciated.I'm trying to avoid a mistake as I already am needing to sell a past boat buying mistake now.I'm wanting a swing keel due to my close proximity to Rehoboth bay,yet I may also want to trailer to Md ,so I may look into something a bit bigger also.I had a feeling the swing keels would be a maintenance headache.I am handy so I figure I can learn.One question I do have is how long does it take to rig them and unrig them ?That's a big drawback for me as far as a trailered boat goes,but for now its my only option.  

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RK-20 Sailboat Information

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• Sailboat Guide

1980 Coastal Recreations RK-20

• Description

Seller's Description

The RK-20 sailboat is 20 feet long with a 19 inch draft. Swing keel. Trailer included. Great condition and ready to sail.

Main sail and two roller furling interchangeable headsails (155% genoa and 110% jib).

6HP 4 stroke outboard. Runs great and starts with one pull.

CDI-2 roller furling.

Lewmar winches.

Solar battery charger and cabin vent.

Marine AM/FM/CD Radio and Speakers, with I-Pod connection.

Comes with trailer. Trailer in great shape.

All running rigging replaced.

This boat is ready to sail!

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

This listing is presented by SailboatListings.com . Visit their website for more information or to contact the seller.

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Max Horsepower Rating 20 ft sailboat

• Thread starter CAP"NADAM
• Start date Feb 11, 2021
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

CAP"NADAM

Hello. Does anyone know the max horsepower rating for a RK20 or a comparable 20 foot fiberglass sailboat? A really thorough and therefore hopefully reliable used outboard guy wants me to tell him the max horsepower rating of my boat before he sells me a motor, which seems like a good idea. I can''t find the coast gaurd rating plate on my boat and can't find any information on the web other than (LxWx.8)-15 = hp, which might not convince him. So I thought I would try the experts, you all boat owners. Thank you.  

I had a Mac26S with a 5HP OB. 20 feet, you would be fine with something under 5hp. Maybe even electric or propane if you have restrictions in your area.  

Sailboats don't have HP ratings like motor boats do. A 20 ft sailboat will move quite nicely with a 4HP outboard. Sailboats are displacement hulls, adding more hp just means more weight, noise, and expense. Shaft length is more important than HP.  

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani

Anything over about 5-6 HP would be a waste on that boat. ,My 25m footer runs hull speed at half throttle on the 8 hp, and my 21 footer uses 2.5 HP quite nicely A good friend of mine runs a RK20 with an old British Seagull one cyl  

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani said: A good friend of mine runs a RK20 with an old British Seagull one cyl Click to expand

I have a Tohatsu 6 HP sailpro. It is perfect for my boat which is a much bigger boat than yours. If you don't need the 6 amp alternator I'd go for a 4 HP but try to buy the long shaft version.  

Richard19068

dlochner said: Sailboats don't have HP ratings like motor boats do. A 20 ft sailboat will move quite nicely with a 4HP outboard. Sailboats are displacement hulls, adding more hp just means more weight, noise, and expense. Shaft length is more important than HP. Click to expand

Charlie Jones s/v Tehani said: ... an old British Seagull one cyl Click to expand

dlochner said: He's a brave man! Those things never start. Click to expand

Torqeedo Motors | Inflatable Boat Specialists

Thank you everyone for the information. This might be crazy but I'm thinking of having 2 outboards. Most of the time I wouldn't use both but having 2 makes me feel more secure. I want to go about 7 miles offshore to some islands eventually, so reliability and speed are important to me. My boat has a swing keel, so when lifted, and with mast and boom down, in an emergency, how much hp would be safe and how fast could I go? How much is hull speed affected by having the keel up?  

Maybe even a better argument for electric and more battery reserve. I don't think the keel up will change your hull speed. It will reduce drag though Hull speed or displacement speed is the speed at which the wavelength of a vessel's bow wave is equal to the waterline length of the vessel. As boat speed increases from rest, the wavelength of the bow wave increases, and usually its crest-to-trough dimension (height) increases as well  

rgranger said: Have you thought about a high thrust trolling motor? Or a smaller Torqeedo? Torqeedo Motors | Inflatable Boat Specialists We sell Torqeedo outboard motors and parts. Electric boating at its finest. www.inflatableboats.net If I were in the market for a new O.B., I'd consider an electric. On a small 20' boat, you could probably still get 100+ mile range on a charge. If you really wanted to go on longer cruises, you could add solar panels and stow a small Honda generator. But I really think you could plan a longer cruise with an electric O.B. Click to expand

Hull speed is a function of waterline length and hull shape. The centerboard will have a minimal effect on the top speed, but it will have a very positive effect on the boat's stability and help to stop any rolling or yawing. Top speed without planning or surfing will be in the 5.5 knot range. A 15hp motor only push to about that speed, so will a 4 hp motor. The only time a little larger, say 5 or 6 hp motor will be better is trying to motor into a seaway. That little extra power help the boat recover faster from being stopped by a wave. 7 miles seems like a lot, however, it is only about a 2 hour sail. In good conditions that should be easy to do. Just watch the weather forecasts.  

CAP"NADAM said: ... How much is hull speed affected by having the keel up? Click to expand

shemandr said: Enough so that it is worth doing while racing downwind in centerboard boats. But pulling the board up won't turn a displacement hull into a planing hull. I'm not sure why you would take the mast and boom down. Could you elaborate? Maybe you should look for a MacGregor 26X (I think), which is a cross between a power boat and a sailboat. It will plane with the Rx'ed engine and it can sail. Click to expand

At least you have sails to get you home. Imagine if you were in a stinkpot and it quit  

CAP"NADAM said: I figured that taking the mast and boom down, in the case that I had to motor to shore from the islands quickly, would help compensate stability wise for me raising the keel, thought it seems like my idea to raise the keel won't help me much. I guess I just like to think about options and ways to be safe because I am newer to the sailing side of boating. Click to expand

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