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How to Do a Sea Trial

Buying a boat is a big decision. If you ask any marine expert how to buy a boat with as little risk as possible, they will likely recommend you take the vessel out for a sea trial before making a final purchase. For many boaters, the sea trial is the last step before buying the boat, and the results of the test are often the determining factor between two similar vessels. This article explains how to sea trial a boat, including what areas you should pay close attention to while on the water and helpful boat-buying tips.

What Is a Sea Trial?

A sea trial is when you take a boat you are interested in purchasing on a test run on the body of water you plan to use it on, whether that be the ocean or a freshwater lake. You may also conduct a sea trial to test a boat you currently own after a major repair or refit. The idea is to use the boat the same way you plan to use it post-purchase, taking special note of how well the vessel performs. Only engage in a sea trial for a new boat once you have narrowed down all your options and have found the vessel you are likely to buy.

WHAT HAPPENS ON A SEA TRIAL?

Now that you know what it is, exactly how does a sea trial work? During a sea trial, you take the boat on the water and operate it under the same conditions you would on a typical boating trip, including varying speeds, maneuvering on different water conditions and adding extra weight on board. Although it’s usually a fun experience, don’t get too caught up in the thrill of a new boat. Be sure to focus on how well the vessel performs and take notes to compile a sea trial boat report. Some boaters will hire a marine surveyor, mechanic or industry expert to accompany them during the sea trial before buying a boat so they have trained eyes and ears helping to identify potential concerns.

HOW LONG DOES A SEA TRIAL LAST?

When you water test a boat, it can last anywhere from a few hours to a few days. Each boat dealership has its own rules and guidelines in place for sea trials — set aside enough time during the boat shopping period to discuss your expectations with the dealer. If you feel you need more time on the water to make a decision, ask about their policies. At this time, your boat dealer or surveyor may also discuss certain restrictions you must follow due to insurance and liability laws.

Importance of Doing a Sea Trial

Having a sea trial for a powerboat is a crucial step in the boat buying process, as it can alert you toward concerns you may have otherwise overlooked. It’s the best way to ensure that you are making a worthwhile investment. Doing a sea trial is especially important if you are purchasing a pre-owned vessel. Even if the test raises no red flags, it’s still an excellent opportunity to get a feel for how the vessel rides the water and what your sightline will be while at the helm.

Sea Trial Checklist: What to Look for on a Sea Trial

Before you begin your sea trial, make a list of the requirements that you need your boat to meet and the areas you want to inspect in a notebook. Keep these notes with you throughout the water test, and remember to record details about the boat’s performance. Use this same notebook to write down questions for the dealer.

WHAT TO CHECK ON LAND

Before you head out, perform a visual inspection of the boat on dry land. Pay special attention to the following areas:

Upholstery: Examine the upholstery — including seats, cushions, drapery and linens — for stains, tears or fading. Inspect all seams for stability and note any wear.
Exterior damage: If you’re buying a pre-owned boat, pay close attention to surface damage, such as scratches, chips in the paint, cracks or corrosion. Although a few minor blemishes are common, multiple cracks or concentrated corrosion in one area could indicate a more significant problem.
Smell: Smell can be a powerful tool during a pre-inspection. If you smell excessive fuel, for instance, it could mean there is a leak in the fuel lines, or the tank is filled with contaminated fuel. If you note a musky, mildew smell, be sure to check for hiding leaks or standing water in storage compartments and other hard-to-see areas of the boat. Any trace of burning rubber or smoke is cause for immediate concern.
Functionality: Finally, test the functional elements of the boat. Do all windows, doors and compartments open without difficulty? Are railings and pedestal seats firmly mounted? This is also a good time to check for loose wiring, including cut or frayed lines. Note the date on the battery, as well as its condition.

WHAT TO CHECK ON THE WATER

If possible, conduct a portion of your sea trial in daylight, as well as after dark, so you can get an accurate idea of how displays look in all types of lighting. Key performance areas to check during your sea trial include steering, speed, maneuverability, sound and comfort.

1. STEERING

Being able to steer your boat quickly and efficiently is crucial for the safety of you, your passengers and other boaters. Two of the most important things to test your boat are the steering response and whether the steering system is worn. To test response, count how many times you have to turn the steering wheel to get from lock to lock. Three to four times indicates a quick response, while anything more than that may be more difficult to maneuver in an emergency. To inspect for a worn system, take a look at the cables and mounting area. Check that the drive or outboard engine has little slack. If it easily moves back and forth when you touch it, this could be a safety hazard later.

You need a vessel that can offer you the adventure you’re looking for. For powerboaters, this means speed. There are several ways to test the speed of your boat, including:

How does the boat sound as you accelerate? How does it feel? Any abnormal noises or vibrations could be cause for concern.
Operate the boat on both calm and busy waters, so you see whether it maintains a low planing speed on rough waves without sacrificing too much time.
Shift the throttle between casual, steady cruising and top speed performance. Note how the speed holds and shifts through each transition. While you do this, be sure to travel over different depths of water to get an accurate read.
Make several turns while going each speed. If the boat stays on plane, this is the minimum planing speed. The slower the planing speed, the better, especially if you plan to do a lot of boating on rougher waters.

3. MANEUVERABILITY

Maneuverability refers to the way the boat handles the water, and how easy or challenging it is to move around the boat while on board. Take note of any factors that impede performance, such as strong wind currents, uneven steering or jarring movements. To test the vessel’s maneuverability, incorporate a variety of turns into your test, including:

Left and right turns
“Swerve to avoid” motions
Full circle turns
Backing in and docking

To test onboard maneuverability, you or a passenger should walk from end-to-end of the boat while it’s idle and while you’re cruising, noting whether grab bars are accessible, how much traction the floor provides and how much mist and water covers the seating area. Open and close storage receptacles, including doors, hatches and cabinetry.

All powerboats make noise while in use, but there are certain sounds you should be aware of, including:

Starter: Before starting the boat, open the hatch, so it’s easier to hear. A steady vibration or hum is expected, but severe rattling or clunking isn’t normal.
Engine: If possible, start the engine for the first time when the boat is cold, as this is the best time to hear abnormal sounds. If your engine makes any noise variations— called “hunting” — it could indicate a serious issue, such as a failing fuel pump or injector.
Abnormal sounds: While cruising, note any noise in the transmission, as well as abnormal sounds like rattling, thumping, powerful vibrations or cracking. Pay attention to the way the boat sounds while idle and while at top speed, as well as when shifting.

Apr 29, 2020

How to Test Drive a Boat or Yacht You Want to Buy

By: Richard Crowder

Taking a test drive on a boat you want to buy is always a thrill and often a bit nerve-wracking. Having a plan and knowing ahead of time what you want to accomplish will serve you well in the ultimate enjoyment of your powerboat in the years ahead.

By the time you're ready to test drive a boat, you will hopefully have spent time on board with the people in your life that will be on board ninety-nine percent of the time. That normally means just yourself along with perhaps your spouse, your best boating/fishing/watersport friend, and/or your immediate family.

You should have already determined that the general layout and purpose of the boat , its amenities, seating and/or sleeping and/or entertainment facilities are sufficient and accommodating for the needs of this immediate group that will time on board with you. If any of these items are not suitable, then it’s no use wasting your time or the seller’s time going for a test drive.

In addition to the above, you should also have determined that you are satisfied with the structural soundness of the boat’s construction by means of a hull survey from a recognized and qualified marine surveyor. You should also have determined that you are also satisfied with the boat’s mechanical and electrical systems by means of a mechanical inspection by a recognized and qualified marine technician. You should also have checked with your insurance provider to determine under what conditions they will insure the boat.

In other words, by the time you actually go for your test drive, you should know that all the features and conditions of the boat are acceptable for the price being asked, and that if the test drive is acceptable to you, that you will go ahead with the purchase. Based on the pre-determined features and condition of the boat, you have agreed with the seller that if the features operate as expected on the test drive, and if the boat operates and handles as described by the seller, you will go ahead with the purchase following a successful test drive.

This also means you have pre-arranged how you will pay the agreed price following the test drive. The test drive should be the last item on your boat purchase checklist . If all the other items mentioned above are not in place and pre-agreed with the seller, then you will be wasting your time and the seller’s time by engaging in a test drive which, depending on the complexity of the boat, can be very time consuming.

So now, finally, the boat is in the water and you and preferably only of your boating companions climb aboard. I am recommending a maximum of one other person come along for the test drive. The more people on board with you, the more difficult it will be to concentrate on achieving your objectives of properly assessing the boat. Ask the person with you to listen and observe carefully on your behalf in case you later forget anything and need help remembering details.

The only time you may want more for the test drive is if you normally have that many people on board when operating the boat. And this would only be if you are concerned that the quantity or arrangement of the seating may be inadequate, or that the boat may not perform properly with that many aboard, i.e. to pull up waterskiers or wakeboarders or to get onto plane and cruise at a reasonable speed.

You will have hopefully asked the seller beforehand not to start the engine before arrival so it is cold when you get aboard. Only you and the seller should get aboard and tell anyone else to stay on shore for the moment. Before touching anything else, access the engine compartment and check that the engine is indeed cool to the touch. In the case of an outboard, remove the cover.

Check for any signs of oil or water leakage or any indication it has been recently wiped clean. If an inboard or sterndrive, check the bilge area and note the condition and cleanliness. Check the oil level and condition on the dipstick if a four-stroke engine. Assess the seriousness of any other visible anomalies as indicated on your mechanical inspection results.

Be assured there is sufficient and current safety equipment on board as required by law. Turn the batteries on (if on a switch) and run the blower (mandatory on all but outboard powered boats) for the required two minutes prior to starting the engine. Once the engine is started, check for smoke or a film of oil or gasoline on the water behind the boat. If you see any, make a note and check with a technician as to probable cause and remedy.

Now, with the engine warming up, check the function of all switches on the dash to ensure all pumps, lights, horn, accessories, etc. are working properly. All required safety items at least must be working properly before you will be able to use the boat. Check that all instrumentation and navigation electronics are working properly. Any repairs required for any electrical malfunctions could prove costly. Throughout the test drive, make notes of any problems for later reference.

Now anyone else you brought along can help you untie, cast off, and get aboard. The seller may request to drive and control the boat initially especially if you are unfamiliar with the size or type of boat or the body of water. This is good as you now have an opportunity to observe the seller’s actions and reactions and to ask lots of questions.

Take this opportunity to observe the accuracy of the instruments and to “feel” the boat’s reaction to the water conditions as well as to listen intently for any untoward hull or mechanical sounds. These sounds may include banging, rattling, squeaking, or groaning from the hull and scraping, grinding, clunking, ticking, or vibrations from the engine or drivetrain. All of your senses should be on full alert. Do you smell anything you are concerned about?

When you get the chance to drive, sit in the driver’s seat and relax, observe, and think for a minute. Is the seat comfortable? Can I see forward through the windshield? Can I see out the sides and out the back? Does the steering wheel feel to be in a comfortable position? Can the seat and/or the wheel be adjusted to my liking? Is there too much reflection on the windshield from the dash? Can I easily observe the instrumentation? Do the engine controls fall readily to hand?

Now stand up. Can I stay standing comfortably between the steering wheel and the seat? Can my hands still comfortably reach the wheel and the controls? Can I still see the instrumentation? Can I still see out forward, side, and aft? If there is a forward flip-up seat bolster, does it offer proper support and fit me effectively? Do any of the fixed or canvas enclosures restrict visibility?

Now sit back down in the driver’s seat. Ensure there is no other boat traffic close at hand in any direction. Test the trim system for the drive that it is functioning properly and its action recorded on the trim gauge if any. Slowly move the controls from neutral into forward at idle. There may be a very brief clunk or grinding noise that is expected from cone clutch or engaging gears depending on the drive system, but going from neutral into forward should not create a sudden lurch. If so, the idle speed may be set to high or there could be another problem.

Ensure that the drive unit is fully trimmed down and once underway at idle observe the handling of the boat. Is the steering free but not too loose, and not too much slack on-centre? Then move the throttle slowly forward and repeat the above. Does the throttle move freely? If lots of water around you is available and while at slow speed, move the steering wheel slowly lock to lock. Is the steering smooth and easy throughout the range? Are there any noises like clunking sounds from the drivetrain?

Now point the boat straight ahead, ensure that there is no boat traffic close by and that your passengers are seated and prepared for the next step. Proceed to move slowly but firmly to full throttle and move the boat up onto plane. Does the engine respond positively to full throttle application and accelerate the boat smoothly? Do you need to apply trim tabs (if the boat is so equipped) to assist in getting up and onto plane? Can you properly see ahead while the boat is coming up onto plane?

Once you are up onto plane, throttle back until you find a comfortable and economic cruising speed. This is usually the minimum speed that will hold the boat onto plane without accelerating and without dropping off plane and causing the bow to ride too high.

At this point you may choose to trim up the drive until you feel the hull is running at an efficient angle. You may have to add throttle to hold the boat onto plane and/or you may want to add a bit of trim tabs to bring the bow down. It’s called “finding the sweet spot” and it may take some time after you actually own the boat to experiment and find the most efficient and most comfortable cruising speed and boat attitude. The point is though, are you satisfied with the cruising speed and the attitude (running angle) of the boat? This is where you will be spending a considerable amount of your time aboard.

Until this point you have hopefully been running in a straight line to properly assess the boat’s performance on plane and its optimum cruising speed. Now you want to assess the boat’s performance under normal usage involving different manoeuvres. Check all around to make sure you have no nearby boat traffic and, assuming you have reasonable and acceptable water conditions for the size and nature of the boat, start making long sweeping turns in both directions. Does the boat respond smoothly? Is it holding the angle of the turn or is it slipping or jerking? Is the steering easy to work with and not hard to move? Do you have good visibility throughout the turns?

If the water you have so far been running is representative of the conditions you would normally expect when you own the boat, then you have assessed how the boat handles in terms of noise, wave handling, and comfort and whether that is up to your expectations. If the water so far has been smooth then continue those sweeping turns back into and through your wake to assess the boat’s handling of rougher water conditions. You need to do this coming from both directions into your wake and preferably at different angles too.

Now straighten the boat out again and, as long as the water conditions allow it for your safety and you are experienced enough to do so, slowly take the boat up to full throttle and top speed. Listen and observe to determine that the boat is operating as it was designed and without over-revving, ventilation of the propeller, or exhibiting any signs of hull instability.

Now you can slow down and head back to dock. While at cruising speed and if at all possible, run straight broadside to any prevailing wind and waves to assess the rolling or tilting of the boat and whether the result is acceptable. Along the way, you can also assess the operation of the entertainment system, navigation electronics, depth and/or fish finder, etc. If it is a waterski or wakeboard or wake surf boat, check out on board electronic aids as well as optimum wakes at optimum towing speeds.

Once you get back near to the dock, with the boat at rest, move the controls from forward into neutral and then into reverse and back through neutral again two or three times to assess that docking, which involves these movements, can be accomplished smoothly. Once tied up with the engine turned off, check the bilge area and around the engine and drive unit for signs of water, gasoline, or oil. Check the oil dipstick again for quantity and quality. At this point you should check that the outboard or sterndrive trim works throughout its range, including the trailering position, and properly records this range on the trim gauge.

Now you can examine the condition of the upholstery, any canvas, storage compartments, etc. Check the operation of all additional accessories you may have missed on your initial inspection including pumps, water systems, VHF radio, bilge alarms, livewells, refrigerators, toilets, and in the case of cruisers, all galley appliances, electrical systems, generator, anchor windlass, thrusters, washdowns, etc.

Ensure you know how to work these items and where the controls are located, and where tables, support posts, and spare cushions may be stored. Also ask for any manuals for the boat and its accessories, as well as any additional keys or fobs, remote controls, etc.

If all of the above meets or hopefully even exceeds your expectations then proceed to complete the purchase. Congratulations. You are now a boat owner.

Yachting Monthly

Digital edition

How to measure your yacht’s stability

julianwolfram
July 27, 2020

Naval architect Julian Wolfram uses some able hands, scales and maths to explain a practical way to calculate your boat's stability

Measuring, and then adjusting your yacht's stability can affect when you need to reef

Have you ever measured your yacht’s stability?

Adding heavy cruising gear will change your boat’s stability, so it is worth checking, although the names and terms, such as ‘Dellenbaugh angle’ and ‘metacentric height’, might be initially off-putting and leave you flummoxed.

These measures of a yacht’s stability or stiffness – used to compare one boat to another, or modifications that might have done on board – are more reliable than the crude and common ballast/displacement ratio, and understanding them will reveal the impact on your boat of all the additional cruising gear that has been added.

a spirit level on a yacht being used to help calculate the yacht's stability

A simple spirit level can be used to conduct your stability experiment. Credit: Graham Snook

Ballast ratio is a flawed because it takes no account of the shape or depth of the keel, or of how heavily loaded the boat is.

Rather than ballast ratio, a better way to assess the stiffness is by dividing the position of her centre of gravity, as measured from the bottom of her keel (known as KG), by her draught, as this takes into account her both her draught and the centroid of ballast on board.

For any yacht built after 2002 the designer or builder will have calculated and potentially measured the KG for the minimum operating condition and probably for the fully loaded condition too.

A iphone being used on a boat to measure heel

You will need to induce at least 3° if heel for this to work. Credit: Graham Snook

This data is needed to do the required Recreational Craft Directive (RCD) calculations.

It may also be available for many yachts from before then if the builder or designer was conscientious.

Interestingly, this information has to be provided, by law, for a commercial vessel in the form of a stability booklet and there is no logical reason why it should be withheld from a yacht owner – but that doesn’t mean you’ll get it.

If you want to compare the stiffness of your yachts with others and can’t get hold of the KG, you will have to do an inclining experiment to calculate it.

Strips of wood being used to make accurate measurements for calculating the stability of your yacht

Strips of wood are used to ensure accuracy. Credit: Graham Snook

An inclining experiment is required for all commercial vessels, including sailing yachts used for commercial purposes, charter and sail training, and is usually carried out, or at least witnessed by, a ship or yacht surveyor.

The inclining experiment yields the metacentric height (GM) which is a primary measure of stability.

Once you have GM then KG can be found using the hydrostatic particulars that are calculated from the table of offsets or the lines plan.

If you can’t get hold of these then you will have to get a 3D laser scan of the boat, when she is out of the water, and a naval architect who has a stability software package to do the calculations for you.

However, doing an inclining experiment is still worthwhile and, on traditional vessels built by eye or for which the lines and hull offsets have long since disappeared, it is the only option for assessing stability.

How to carry out an inclining experiment to check stability

Anyone can carry out an inclining experiment on their own yacht if they wish to check its stability.

It is done afloat, and simply involves moving weight from the centreline towards the deck edge and measuring how much the boat heels as a result.

The weights can be of any sort – jerry-cans full of water, baskets of old chain or the like.

Crew standing on a yacht to help calculate a yacht's stability

Inclining weight(s) must be large enough to give at least 3° of heel – five large crew should be good for a 12m yacht, the smaller the boat, the fewer people are required. Credit: Graham Snook

I once did an inclining experiment on a 19m ferro-cement schooner with a weight that consisted of a bunch of students weighed on bathroom scales. It worked well.

Traditionally the angle of heel is measured using a pendulum (plumb line attached to a mast) and recording the offset to the side when the vessel heels.

The pendulum is usually damped using a bucket of water or oil.

Nowadays a device known as a stabilograph is often used which is more convenient.

Alternatively, I have used a long (1,830mm) spirit level successfully when the heel angle is between 3 and 6° and I think this is the cheapest and most practical way for a boat owner to give it a go.

the calculations needed to measure your yacht's stability

Needless to say calm conditions are necessary to get an accurate measurement and mooring lines should be slack so the boat heels in a completely unrestricted manner.

Ideally the experiment should be done in the loaded condition but with the tanks no more than half full.

The crew are ideal inclining weights and six crew will weigh nearly half a ton (and maybe more in some cases!) and they don’t have to be lifted onto and across the boat.

Mark lines each side of and parallel to the centreline close to the deck edges.

Continues below…

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What characteristics make a yacht fit for purpose? Duncan Kent explores the meaning of 'seaworthy' and how hull design and…

Why you should regularly check your deck fittings

What’s really going on under your deck fittings? Ben Sutcliffe-Davies investigates the hidden weaknesses

How keel type affects performance

James Jermain looks at the main keel types, their typical performance and the pros and cons of each

The crew will stand facing the same direction with feet together, one foot either side of the line and their weight evenly distributed on both feet.

Ideally there should be one long line marked with chalk or tape on each side of the boat.

That may not be possible, however, and two or more lines may be needed; in which case you will have to note who stands where, as the product of each weight and its distance from the centreline is needed in the calculation.

Start by weighing each of the crew in turn on an accurate set of bathroom scales.

Then put the long spirit level across the cockpit with both ends supported so it is level.

Note the distance between the points of support (x mm).

You should be on the centreline when you are checking the level.

Get the crew on board and along the centreline to start with.

The heel of a yacht has historically been measured using a pendulum. Credit: Richard Langdon

Now get them all to take up positions on one side of the boat and carefully chock up the end of the spirit level so it becomes horizontal.

Pieces of plywood and plastic packers down to 1mm in thickness can be used as you need to measure to the nearest millimetre how much you have chocked up the end of the level (y mm).

Ideally the heel angle will be between 3 and 6° and you will have chocked up the end of the spirit level by at least 100mm.

Take the average of the values as the best estimate of GM. It should be accurate to 1 or 2%.

Typical values of GM range from about 0.8m for a 6m coastal cruiser rising to 1.5m or more for an ocean-going 12m yacht.

Read about what makes a boat seaworthy here

Wide hulls with little freeboard should have higher values; any significantly below this range should give cause for concern.

Knowing GM allows the Dellenbaugh angle, to be estimated.

The heeling arm is the distance between the centre of effort of the sail plan and the centre of lateral resistance of the hull and keel.

These can be estimated from a profile drawing, showing the keel and sail plan and worked out using known measurements.

Once calculated, for a 12m long boat a value of 12° would be considered stiff and 18° tender whereas for a 6m boat 18° would be considered stiff and 26 degrees quite tender.

For those who wish to learn more about this I recommend reading Principles of Yacht Design by Larsson, Eliasson and Orych.

How to measure the stability of your yacht

First you have to wait for Mother Nature to give you a calm day: any wind on the rigging could skew the measurements and drive you mad while you’re trying to get the level correct.

Also consider where you’ll do the test; while it is possible to do this on a mooring, the shelter of a marina is best for accurate results.

A man being weighed to help with calculating a yacht's stability

You will need to weigh crew to help with your calculations. Credit: Graham Snook

You’ll also need weight: passers-by, friends or relatives will do as long as they can spare you 10 minutes.

If not, jerry cans of spare fuel and water, sails, dinghy and liferaft will be needed.

The bigger the boat, the more weight you’ll need. You’ll also need a spirit level – the longer the better.

If it isn’t long enough to go across the cockpit seats of coaming, use a flat bit of wood long enough to span the gap.

1. Marking and measuring

Calculating the stability of your yacht - you will need to mark the centreline of the boat

You need to mark the centreline. Credit: Graham Snook

Marking the centreline on deck, we used masking tape, but a pencil or chalk line would do the trick. Then tape another line parallel to the centreline on deck, remembering to allow room for feet on the outside of the line.

Measure the distance from the centreline to the deck line. Use this measurement (d) to mark a second line on the opposite side. The last measurement you will need is the distance between the supports of your spirit level (x).

2. Prepare the weights

Measuring the stability of a yacht - crew have to stand on the centreline

Weights need to be lined up along the centreline. Credit: Graham Snook

Next weigh your helpers or equipment to act as weights – a set of bathroom scales is ideal for this, whether for people or heavy objects.  Slacken your mooring lines so they don’t affect the way your yacht heels.

Line your weights on the centreline mark and ensure the spirit level is showing your yacht is lying flat in the water. You have to remain on the centreline in the cockpit.

3. The experiment

You need to average the GM figures for both calculations. Credit: Graham Snook

Now move your crew or weights until they are over the deck line; people should stand with one foot either side of the line, weights should be piled up as best as possible. Now pack up the end of the spirit level to bring it level again, then take a note of the thickness of the packing to the nearest millimetre. Repeat the experiment with the weight on the opposite side. Finally, average the GM figures from both calculations.

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Sea Trials: 10 Important Tests to Ensure Vessel Safety

Sea trials of a newly built ship are important to ensure the overall safety of the ship, the crew and the cargo.

Now suppose that you give a million-dollar contract to a shipyard for building a luxury cruise liner. You’ve already stated your requirements (such as speed required, fuel oil consumption, no. of passengers etc) as technical specifications mentioned in the contract.

Well, as the owner of such a vessel you surely would expect that the final delivered vessel conforms to the corresponding requirements mentioned in the contract else your feasibility study of making profits would fail and you’ll spend the rest of your life trying to repay the million dollar loan to the banks.

Apart from being the ultimate sufferer of such a failed business venture, there’s loss in it for the shipyards also as they have to pay you extortionate amounts of money as penalties covered under various guarantees.

10% of the total contract amount is yet to be paid to the shipyard after successful delivery of the vessel and in case of any faults, the penalties will take the form of a deduction from the same.

A question commonly arises as to at what stage will an owner come to know that his ship is not conforming to the technical specifications or the rules and regulations of approving classification society?

Will it be after the faulty ship is handed over to the owner and his crew will inform him? Or will it be before the delivery of the vessel?

Well, to answer that very question is the foundation of this article.

It’s customary to launch a ship in the most grandiose manner. It then becomes the responsibility of the shipyard to let that moment of happiness prevail until the final delivery and that’s when they perform some crucial tests at sea (a.k.a sea trials).

Every shipyard after constructing and launching a vessel performs a set of tests to ensure that all systems of the vessel meet the corresponding requirements assigned by the owner under the contract and at the same time conform to the rules and regulations of the approving classification society.

This series of tests are clubbed under the heading Sea trials which simply imply trials carried out at the sea after final outfitting and launching of the vessel just before delivery.

In this article, we’ve discussed 10 important tests to be carried out during sea trials

1. Draft Measurement

Draft is an important matter of concern for any ship as it shapes and regulates a number of ship hydrostatic and hydrodynamic parameters.

Before measuring the draft of the ship, it’s imperative to measure the density of water in which the ship ought to be floating and hence the specific gravity of seawater is measured.

Accordingly, the draft is measured in that fluid (same water) and in case the ship is not floating at the required draft it is corrected since the very purpose of speed trials is to prove guaranteed speed at a particular draft.

2. Anchor Test

Ship Anchor plays an important part in keeping a vessel stationary as per the requirement such as in ports and harbours. It’s imperative for a vessel’s position to become dynamically stable to prevent any mishap such as collision with other nearby vessels in port. Hence, the anchor test is performed to check the functioning of the entire anchoring mechanism.

The following are the points outlining the test procedure and requirements during sea trial:

The anchor test is conducted at a depth of sea of 80 meters
The anchor chain is dropped freely (both from Port and Starboard one after the other) During this the dropping brake is applied 2-3 times to test its capacity.
Finally, the anchor is heaved and heaving speed is measured by noting downtime on the stopwatch for heaving each chain length. As per rule, the hoisting speed should not be less than 9m/min.

3. Steering Gear Test

Imagine a situation where a ship’s manoeuvrability has been compromised due to malfunctioning of the steering gear. The following points shed light on the test procedure and the necessary requirements for the same.

First of all, the vessel should be moving at full ahead speed.
Now the rudder is moved from 35-degree Port to 35-degree Starboard (called hard to port and hard to starboard in nautical verbiage) by using pressure from one hydraulic pump and then subsequently using two pumps.
As per class requirement, the time taken by the rudder in going from hard port to hard starboard or vice versa should be less than 28 seconds.

Emergency Steering Test- This test is performed when the vessel is moving at half ahead speed and the steering gear draws emergency power from the emergency D.A(Diesel Alternator) Set.

4. Main Engine Endurance Test

The driving and prime component of a ship on failure can make even the most experienced sailors and engineers worried and hence almost 9 measurements are taken while testing the main engine during sea trials.

The main engine should be run for 6 straight hours at full rated r.p.m in order to test its performance at full load. For the initial 1-2 hours, the engine is run on Light Diesel Oil (LDO) and for 3-4 hours on Heavy Fuel Oil (HFO) and lastly again for 1-2 hours on LDO. This is done in order to check the changeover process from HFO to LDO.

The following are the measurements recorded during this test.

Noise levels are recorded at various places on the ship
Similarly, vibration levels are recorded at different places
The capacity of Fresh Water Generator is recorded
The performance of Exhaust Gas Boiler is assessed.
Fuel Oil Consumption in litres/hour is recorded and Specific Fuel Oil Consumption (SFOC) in gm/kW/hr is calculated.
Power is recorded from Shaft Horsepower Meter
Load on Diesel Generator Sets is recorded
All systems are checked for any leakages
The temperatures and pressures of all systems (Fresh Water (FW)/ Lube Oil (LO)/ Fuel Oil (FO)/ Sea Water (SW) / Exhaust Gas) are measured and recorded

5. Speed Trials

Suppose the owner cited a speed requirement of 15 knots. But the vessel is operating at a speed of 16 knots at the required draft. What happens next is a penalty imposed on the shipyard. However, there is a grace margin of 0.3 knots above which for every 0.1 knots the penalty increases.

As mentioned under the draft requirement heading, speed trials are carried out to check the speed of the vessel at the required draft as per the contract.

The test is carried out at a minimum of 3 powers – such as 75%, 85%, 100% MCR (Maximum Continuous Rating) or any other power as per the contract.
The speed at each power is measured using the Global Positioning System (GPS) by running the ship in two opposite directions (called double run).
Now the speed measured at suppose three powers are plotted to give a speed-power curve.
Finally, from the curve, the speed corresponding to the required power as outlined in the contract is noted.

6. Crash Stop Tests

In this test, the stopping ability of a vessel is assessed.

When the vessel is moving at full ahead speed, the engine is reversed to full astern to commence stopping of the vessel
The time taken by the vessel to come to a complete halt is recorded.
The distance travelled by ship starting from the moment the lever was put to full astern until the ship stopped is noted
This test is also carried out from full astern to full ahead condition.

You can read more about this test in depth by clicking the below link

https://www.marineinsight.com/naval-architecture/ships-stops-brakes/

https://www.marineinsight.com/guidelines/what-is-crash-manoeuvring-of-ship-in-emergency-situation-and-whats-its-procedure/

7. Astern Running

All vessels should have the manoeuvring capability to run in the astern direction as per rules. Hence during sea trials, the vessel is run in the astern direction at about 70% ahead MCR by running the engine in reverse direction.

8. Turning Circle Test

This test is carried out to measure the diameter of the circular path which the vessel starts to traverse as soon as the rudder is put hard to port or hard to starboard. The vessel is run to complete one circle. The diameter of the completed circle is measured using GPS.

9. Navigation Equipment

Operation of equipment such as RADAR, communication systems etc. are also checked during sea trials.

10. Black Out Test

This test is aptly called ‘blackout test’ as there is a complete blackout on board a ship. This happens as during this test all the main generators (typically 3 in number) are shut down and the automatic starting of Emergency Diesel Alternator (D.A) set is observed. As per rule, the emergency D.A set should come online within a time span of 45 seconds.

These were 10 important tests to be carried out during sea trials. Ship construction is a meticulous process and still for all practical reasons many shortcomings of a vessel emerge out during sea trials.

When this happens the shipyard personnel work to make the vessel suitable up to the satisfaction of the owner as per the contract to prevent or minimise any deduction in that 10% contract amount, we talked about earlier (which is released post successful delivery of the vessel).

Sea trials are what actually put a vessel to test and must be carried out diligently in a punctilious manner with every concerned person present on board to assess and record the measurements and at the same time try to identify the cause of any malfunctioning. It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that these tests once conducted and analysed help make a ship safer as well as allowing it to sail smoothly by conforming to all rules and regulations of the classification societies.

Hope you liked going through it. Do let us know your views in the comments below!

Disclaimer : The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. While we endeavour to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk.

In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of data or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website.

Do you have info to share with us ? Suggest a correction

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About Author

Shivansh is pursuing Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering at IMU Visakhapatnam India. He is also the Editor- in- Chief of Learn Ship Design- An Acknowledged Student Initiative.

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Boating license Practice Test with Answers - USA You are viewing the USA test

Practice exam

Test your knowledge for free with our practice exam. You will have access to the correct answer by clicking on the RIGHT OR WRONG? button.

Which picture represents the stern ?

Congratulations, good answer!

The stern is the rear part of the boat.

Sorry, wrong answer.

Which picture represents the masthead light ?

The masthead light is a white light projecting towards the front of the boat.

What is affixed to a boat, attached to the transom on the starboard side above the waterline , to prove that it was built in accordance with the construction requirements?

The HIN (Hull Identification Number)

The certificate of ownership

The capacity plate

The registration

The Hull Identification Number (HIN) is the boat’s serial number. Boats built after 1972 must have a Hull Identification Number (HIN) permanently attached to the transom on the starboard side above the waterline.

Which is the proper route that the boat must take?

As a give-way vessel , the boat is directed to keep out of the way of the other boat, which is a stand-on vessel, by taking early and substantial action to keep well clear.

Which illustration represents an information buoy among the following?

Congratulations, good answer! The information buoy is the fourth one. It is white, with an orange, open-faced square symbol on two opposite sides and two orange horizontal bands, one above and one below the square symbols.

Sorry, wrong answer. The information buoy is the fourth one. It is white, with an orange, open-faced square symbol on two opposite sides and two orange horizontal bands, one above and one below the square symbols.

Which illustration represents an exclusion buoy among the following?

The exclusion buoy is the fourth one. The explanation may be placed outside the crossed diamond shape, such as dam, rapids, swim area, etc.

A power-driven vessel shall keep out of the way of a sailing vessel.

Congratulations, good answer! TRUE . As a stand-on vessel, the sailing vessel has the right of way on the power-driven vessel (give-way vessel). The sailing vessel shall maintain her course and speed.

Sorry, wrong answer. TRUE . As a stand-on vessel, the sailing vessel has the right of way on the power-driven vessel (give-way vessel). The sailing vessel shall maintain her course and speed.

When a boat capsizes or is submerged, should you stay with the boat or try to reach the shore as quickly as possible?

If you should capsize , it may be safer to stay with the floating boat than try to swim to shore. Staying with the boat also provides an easier object for rescuers to see. Take a head count to make sure everyone is there, don life jackets, check for injuries and stay with the boat.

Which picture represents the starboard side ?

The starboard side is the right side of a boat.

To who should you leave a float plan before getting underway?

The local police

A responsible person

The sheriff's office

Remember to communicate your float plan with a responsible person such as a family member or a friend. As well, during the trip, update your float plan in order to prevent unnecessary emergency operations.

Sorry, wrong answer. Remember to communicate your float plan with a responsible person such as a family member or a friend. As well, during the trip, update your float plan in order to prevent unnecessary emergency operations.

Which picture is the graphical representation of a body of water that provides information on depths, traffic lanes and buoys.

Congratulations, good answer! Charts are graphic representations depicting areas of water, depicting the depths, underwater hazards, traffic routes, aids to navigation and adjacent coastal areas.

Sorry, wrong answer. Charts are graphic representations depicting areas of water, depicting the depths, underwater hazards, traffic routes, aids to navigation and adjacent coastal areas.

You may use a PFD that is torn as long as it was well repaired by an approved manufacturer.

FALSE. A PFD becomes void if it has been repaired or altered; therefore, it is no longer usable and must be replaced and discarded.

Which of the four types of pyrotechnic devices must be used only in daylight?

The pyrotechnic orange smoke, hand-held or floating , may be used only in daylight.

What type of boat uses yellow lights as navigation light ?

If you see yellow lights or a flashing yellow light, stay away, it is a towing vessel with an object in tow.

What should we be prepared to show immediately to avoid a collision while navigating at night in a canoe or kayak?

A canoe or kayak may display the lights prescribed for sailing vessels, but if not, must have ready at hand an electric torch or lighted lantern (flashlight) showing a white light to be displayed in sufficient time to prevent collision.

Sorry, wrong answer. A canoe or kayak may display the lights prescribed for sailing vessels, but if not, must have ready at hand an electric torch or lighted lantern (flashlight) showing a white light to be displayed in sufficient time to prevent collision.

What item is not displayed on a capacity plate ?

The maximum carrying weight

The boat's top speed

The maximum persons capacity

The maximum horsepower recommended

Congratulations, good answer! The capacity plate displays three important items: the maximum persons capacity, the maximum carrying weight - persons, motor & gear (pounds), and the maximum horsepower recommended for the boat.

Sorry, wrong answer. The capacity plate displays three important items: the maximum persons capacity, the maximum carrying weight - persons, motor & gear (pounds), and the maximum horsepower recommended for the boat.

Which buoy marks an area where boating is restricted?

Congratulations, good answer! The control buoy (the first illustration) fits this definition. Type of control is indicated in the circle, such as slow, no wake, anchoring, etc.

The control buoy (the first illustration) fits this definition. Type of control is indicated in the circle, such as slow, no wake, anchoring, etc.

What type of propulsion PWC are usually equipped with?

Inboard engines

Outboard engines

Stern drive

Jet drives are usually inboard engines that take in water that flows through a pump powered by an impeller impeller. PWCs are usually equipped with a jet drive unit. These propulsion systems do not have propellers, which are a potential danger to people in the water and to marine life. The water is then discharged at high pressure through a nozzle, propelling the boat forward.

Sorry, wrong answer!

Most recreational boats in the United States use outboard engines and are less than twenty feet in length.

The following symptoms are related to which condition: slow pulse, confusion, drowsiness, lack of coordination?

Heat stroke

Hypothermia

Carbon monoxide poisoning

Congratulations, good answer! These symptoms are related to hypothermia.

Sorry, wrong answer. These symptoms are related to hypothermia.

Which image demonstrates the best practices to have when a diving operation takes place from aboard a pleasure craft?

The boat must display Flag A (blue and white). However, during diving operations you must install a diving flag in the water. It is Flag A, red and white. It marks an area where scuba or other such diving activity is taking place. It is white, and is mounted by a red flag with a white diagonal stripe, extending from the tip of the hoist to the bottom of the fly.

Sorry, wrong answer. The boat must display Flag A (blue and white). However, during diving operations you must install a diving flag in the water. It is Flag A, red and white. It marks an area where scuba or other such diving activity is taking place. It is white, and is mounted by a red flag with a white diagonal stripe, extending from the tip of the hoist to the bottom of the fly.

What is this buoy called?

Isolated danger buoy

Bifurcation buoy

Starboard buoy

This buoy is a starboard hand buoy . It must be kept on the right side of the pleasure craft when heading upstream.

Sorry, wrong answer This buoy is a starboard hand buoy . It must be kept on the right side of the pleasure craft when heading upstream.

Which type of anchor has less holding power and should only be used on small, lighter weight boats ?

The correct answer is the mushroom anchor . A mushroom anchors do not have the holding power of a fluke or plow anchor and should only be used on small, lighter weight boats. A local marine supply store can help you select the proper anchor for your boat and for the waters in which you will be boating.

Sorry, wrong answer. The correct answer is the mushroom anchor . A mushroom anchors do not have the holding power of a fluke or plow anchor and should only be used on small, lighter weight boats. A local marine supply store can help you select the proper anchor for your boat and for the waters in which you will be boating.

Which factors must be taken into account in determining a safe speed ?

Conditions of visibility and traffic density

The draft in relation to the available depth of water and the manoeuvrability of the vessel

Conditions of wind, sea and current, and the proximity of navigational hazards

All of the above

All these answers are correct. Every vessel shall at all times proceed at a safe speed so that you can take proper and appropriate action to avoid collision , and be able to stop in a safe distance, and appropriate to the prevailing circumstances and conditions.

What class of fire extinguisher will extinguish flammable liquids such as gasoline?

The right answer is class B type fire extinguisher .

Sorry, wrong answer. The right answer is class B type fire extinguisher .

What does this image represent?

An HIN (Hull Serial Number)

A proof of registration

A compliance notice

A validation decal

Congratulations, good answer! The right answer is The HIN (Hull Serial Number) .

The right answer is The HIN (Hull Serial Number) .

For navigation lights requirements, sailing vessels less than 7 meters may carry an electric torch or lighted lantern showing a white light to be displayed in sufficient time to prevent collision.

Congratulations, good answer! TRUE . Watertight flashlights may also qualify as navigation lights on kayak and canoe.

TRUE . Watertight flashlights may also qualify as navigation lights on kayak and canoe.

What are the markers in the following image called?

Junction markers

Alignment markers

Safe water markers

When entering from seaward you may find two channels which separate and go in different directions. A junction marker uses its top color to show you the primary channel. This is represented by a Red and Green buoy. You use the top color and shape as if it were a stand alone marker if you want to follow the primary channel.

Sorry, wrong answer. When entering from seaward you may find two channels which separate and go in different directions. A junction marker uses its top color to show you the primary channel. This is represented by a Red and Green buoy. You use the top color and shape as if it were a stand alone marker if you want to follow the primary channel.

It is important to keep metal and/or electrical devices at a distance from the magnetic compass because it could display inaccurate information.

Congratulations, good answer! TRUE. A magnetic compass will help the operator of a power-driven vessel to find directions.

TRUE. A magnetic compass will help the operator of a power-driven vessel to find directions.

Which of the following statements is incorrect regarding carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning?

Carbone monoxide can build up when two vessels are tied to each other.

Carbon monoxide poisoning occurs when you breathe too much carbon monoxide and it begins to replace the oxygen in your blood

It is important to run the engine at idle only in well ventilated areas in order to protect yourself and others from carbon monoxide poisoning

Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning are: hot, red and dry skin, rapid pulse, rapid and shallow breathing.

Congratulations, good answer! The first three statements are true. But the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning are rather the followings: nausea, headache, mental confusion, dizziness or fainting, etc.. The symptoms can be mistaken for seasickness or the flu. If someone displays these symptoms, place them in fresh air immediately.

Sorry, wrong answer. The first three statements are true. But the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning are rather the followings: nausea, headache, mental confusion, dizziness or fainting, etc.. The symptoms can be mistaken for seasickness or the flu. If someone displays these symptoms, place them in fresh air immediately.

What is the main purpose of a bucket on a pleasure craft?

Extinguish fires from combustible liquids such as gasoline, oil and grease

Extinguish fires from electrical equipment

To put the fish in

Extinguish A type fires

The main purpose of the bucket is to extinguish type A fires which are combustible solids (wood, textile, paper, etc.).

Sorry, wrong answer. The main purpose of the bucket is to extinguish type A fires which are combustible solids (wood, textile, paper, etc.).

Which of the following does not represent a distress signal ?

The third image is not a distress signal. It is a diving buoy that marks an area where scuba or other such diving activity is taking place.

Sorry, wrong answer. The third image is not a distress signal. It is a diving buoy that marks an area where scuba or other such diving activity is taking place.

Regulations on speed limits on water are the same wherever you are in United States.

FALSE. Most specific speed regulations are local ordinances or state laws. Many states have speed and distance regulations that determine how close you can operate to other vessels, the shoreline or docking area, and swimming areas. For example, some state regulations require that you maintain a no-wake speed when within 250 feet of shore or when within 100 feet of another vessel. Be sure to check with state and local authorities to determine what regulations apply to you.

Which statement is incorrect regarding the registration number ?

The registration number must be display on the back of your vessel.

It is a combination of letters and numbers normally beginning with the abbreviation of the State in which the boat is registered.

It must be painted or apply as a decal with block style letters and numbers of at least 3 inches in height.

The color used for the letters and numbers must contrast with the hull.

The registration number is actually a combination of letters and numbers normally beginning with the abbreviation of the State in which the boat is registered. You must display your registration number on the forward part of your vessel well above the waterline. You must paint the numbers or apply them as a decal, where law enforcement officials can easily read them. Use BLOCK style letters and numbers of at least 3 inches in height. The color must contrast with the hull.

Sorry, wrong answer. The registration number is actually a combination of letters and numbers normally beginning with the abbreviation of the State in which the boat is registered. You must display your registration number on the forward part of your vessel well above the waterline. You must paint the numbers or apply them as a decal, where law enforcement officials can easily read them. Use BLOCK style letters and numbers of at least 3 inches in height. The color must contrast with the hull.

As a general rule, recreational boaters should put out 7 to 10 times the depth of the water plus the distance from the water to where the anchor will attach to the bow.

TRUE. The amount of rode that you have out (scope) when at anchor depends on water depth and weather conditions. The deeper the water and the more severe the weather, the more rode you will put out.

Which illustration represents a mooring buoy among the following?

Congratulations, good answer! The mooring buoy is white with a blue horizontal band. It is usually placed in marinas and other areas where vessels are allowed to anchor. It's the only buoy you may legally tie up to.

Sorry, wrong answer. The mooring buoy is white with a blue horizontal band. It is usually placed in marinas and other areas where vessels are allowed to anchor. It's the only buoy you may legally tie up to.

Which of the following statements is incorrect regarding the hull identification number (HIN) ?

It is forbidden to alter, deface or remove a HIN.

It is not mandatory to have a HIN on your boat.

The HIN must be permanently attached to the transom on the starboard side above the waterline.

The HIN is 12 digits long, beginning with the Manufacturer’s Identification Code.

Congratulations, good answer! Boats built after 1972 must have a Hull Identification Number (HIN) permanently attached to the transom on the starboard side above the waterline.

Sorry, wrong answer. Boats built after 1972 must have a Hull Identification Number (HIN) permanently attached to the transom on the starboard side above the waterline.

What is this part of the boat called?

Congratulations, good answer! The front of the boat is called the bow . The aft is the stern.

Sorry, wrong answer. The front of the boat is called the bow . The aft is the stern.

What is this navigation light called?

One-way rear light

Masthead light

Congratulations, good answer! The rear light is called the sternlight .

Sorry, wrong answer. The rear light is called the sternlight .

What is the purpose of this buoy?

To delimit a swimming area.

To warn of the presence of divers.

To locate a local hazard.

To anchor where the water is too deep for an anchor.

Congratulations, good answer! The diving buoy marks an area where scuba or other such diving activity is taking place. The diving buoy is white and has a red flag with a white diagonal stripe, extending from the tip of the hoist to the bottom of the fly.

Sorry, wrong answer. The diving buoy marks an area where scuba or other such diving activity is taking place. The diving buoy is white and has a red flag with a white diagonal stripe, extending from the tip of the hoist to the bottom of the fly.

Information buoy

Cautionary buoy

Control buoy

Hazard buoy

Congratulations, good answer! It's a control buoy . It marks an area where boating is restricted. It is white with an orange circle located between two horizontal bands of the same color. Type of control is indicated in the circle, such as slow, no wake, anchoring, etc.

Sorry, wrong answer. It's a control buoy . It marks an area where boating is restricted. It is white with an orange circle located between two horizontal bands of the same color. Type of control is indicated in the circle, such as slow, no wake, anchoring, etc.

When operating in a narrow channel , the navigation rules tell you to stay as much as possible in the middle of the channel.

Congratulations, good answer! FALSE . When operating in a narrow channel , you must stay as far to the outer limit of the channel as practical on your starboard (right) side.

FALSE . When operating in a narrow channel , you must stay as far to the outer limit of the channel as practical on your starboard (right) side.

What is this flare called?

Pyrotechnic red flares, hand-held or aerial

Pyrotechnic orange smoke, hand-held or floating

Launchers for aerial red meteors

Parachute flares

Congratulations, good answer! It is the rocket parachute flare . It creates a simple red star that rises up to 300m and comes down slowly with a parachute. It is easily seen from the ground or air, and burns for at least 40 seconds.

Sorry, wrong answer. It is the rocket parachute flare . It creates a simple red star that rises up to 300m and comes down slowly with a parachute. It is easily seen from the ground or air, and burns for at least 40 seconds.

Which of the following vessels is not a human-powered pleasure craft?

The last image is not a human-powered pleasure craft. It is considered as a power-driven vessel since it is propelled by machinery.

Sorry, wrong answer. The last image is not a human-powered pleasure craft. It is considered as a power-driven vessel since it is propelled by machinery.

What is the name of this anchor ?

Grapnel anchor

Plough anchor

Mushroom anchor

Danforth anchor

Congratulations, good answer! It is the mushroom anchor . It is suitable where the seabed is composed of silt or fine sand. It is shaped like an inverted mushroom, the head becoming buried in the silt.

Sorry, wrong answer. It is the mushroom anchor . It is suitable where the seabed is composed of silt or fine sand. It is shaped like an inverted mushroom, the head becoming buried in the silt.

Which of the following vessels is a human-powered pleasure craft?

In this scenario, the canoe is considered as a human-powered pleasure craft since the person is using an oar. If you install a motor on the canoe, it becomes a power-driven vessel.

Sorry, wrong answer. In this scenario, the canoe is considered as a human-powered pleasure craft since the person is using an oar. If you install a motor on the canoe, it becomes a power-driven vessel.

Port sidelight

Starboard sidelight

Congratulations, good answer! The red forward light is called the port sidelight.

Sorry, wrong answer. The red forward light is called the port sidelight.

What type of boat uses a blue light as navigation light ?

A flashing blue light indicates a law enforcement vessel. Do not impede its operation.

Which type of hull has a sharper entry into the water that provides for a smoother ride in rough water?

The vee bottom has a sharper entry into the water that provides for a smoother ride in rough water. They do, however, require more power to achieve the same speed. Many runabouts use the vee-bottom design.

When riding on a PWC, you can wear an inflatable PFD.

Congratulations, good answer! Inflatable vests only count towards the PFD/life jacket requirements if they are worn. However, they are not approved for all activities (e.g. riding on a PWC or participating in towed watersports).

Sorry, wrong answer. Inflatable vests only count towards the PFD/life jacket requirements if they are worn. However, they are not approved for all activities (e.g. riding on a PWC or participating in towed watersports).

What type of engine small boats are usually powered by?

Most recreational boats in the United States today use outboard engines and are less than twenty feet in length.

Sorry, good answer!

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Yachting World

Digital Edition

XC47 review: is this the best bluewater cruiser ever?

Toby Hodges
January 25, 2024

The XC47 is marketed as the ‘best bluewater cruiser ever built’ – a very bold claim – but does this powerful yacht actually match the hype?

Product Overview

Price as reviewed:.

We’re close-hauled in 7-10 knots of true wind, making 6-6.5 knots of boat speed, with the helm beautifully balanced and only a degree or two of weather helm. A gentle ease of the XC47 hydraulic backstay in the lulls gives more depth to the sail shape, while a few pumps depowers the rig in the puffs.

It’s a scenario that’s instantly familiar to many thousands of X-Yacht owners over the years. But this isn’t the first beat of a short round the cans race. Instead, we’re on a comfortable serious bluewater cruiser that weighs almost 15 tonnes and has impressive stowage and payload.

The XC47 is a pivotal model for the Danish yard in a slimmed-down range of long distance cruisers. It’s also the first all-new boat without input from co-founder and lead designer Niels Jeppesen, with markedly different styling.

Reducing the number of models in the Xc line allowed effort to be focussed on a yacht that embodies many small but important improvements that came out of extensive consultation with clients who have completed circumnavigations on older Xc models.

This is the first all-new non Jeppesen design from X-Yachts, with very different styling to earlier models. Photo: Ludovic Fruchaud/imacis.fr/EYOTY

The concept of the XC47 hull shape is very similar in the forward sections and distinct stern overhang to previous Xc designs, with the aim of keeping the same easy motion in a seaway. However, in other respects the stern sections have been updated, with a wide transom and soft chines well above the waterline.

The latter markedly increase form stability when heeled, giving more performance when reaching and enabling full sail to be carried for longer in a rising wind. At the same time, the deep canoe body with plenty of rocker that helps create a voluminous hull, with a large payload, is retained.

This is also the first design from X-Yachts with a semi decksaloon layout. Yet when you’re sailing it doesn’t feel like a decksaloon yacht, partly because of a slightly higher cockpit floor that also helps increase volume in the aft cabins, without making it feel as though you’re perched up high when on deck.

On bearing away and hoisting the top-down furling gennaker the wind increased to 12-13 knots as a shower moved overhead. With a true wind angle of around 140°, and the apparent more or less on the beam, boat speed climbed to 8.6 knots. While there are many ways in which this feels like a performance boat, once downwind in a breeze with a kite up you can feel the 15 tonne displacement – and that pronounced rocker – holding the boat back.

A forgiving displacement hull, but still a slippery one with relatively low freeboard. Photo: Ludovic Fruchaud/imacis.fr/EYOTY

XC47 – surfing performance

Nevertheless, when the true wind speed later increased to 17-18 knots, with occasional gusts of 20 we enjoyed spirited sailing, still under gennaker, under full control at 8-9.5 knots, with clear signs the boats would willingly surf on a larger sea. We had a chance to experience this towards the end of my second day on board, in only 12-16 knots of breeze, but with a large following swell. Sailing with the gennaker at a 125-135° true wind angle we surfed readily, hitting a maximum of 11.5 knots under complete control and, surprisingly, maintaining an average speed very close to that of a high performance 43-footer sailing nearby.

I also had the benefit of sailing the boat in light airs – a situation in which many heavier designs fall down, forcing you to motor when the breeze is much less than 10 knots. Close-hauled in 7-10 knots true, we made 5.5-6.5 knots, despite an awkward swell.

The boat retained its lovely feel on the helm in these conditions, with just one or two degrees of weatherhelm. Later on in an easier sea state, we made 7-7.2 knots in 8-9 knots of true wind, tacking through around 85°. And when the breeze eased to just 5-6.5 knots we still maintained a useful 4.5-5.5 knots close-hauled – remarkable figures for a yacht of this type.

Our test XC47’s Elvström Ekko laminate sails that set nicely undoubtedly helped speed, pointing and handling, though the layout of deck hardware is also important. The hydraulic backstay that gives such easy control of sail shape is centrally positioned between the wheels and can be operated equally easily on either tack.

This feels like a performance boat. Photo: Ludovic Fruchaud/imacis.fr/EYOTY

It’s also possible to reach the mainsheet from both helm stations on the XC47, though the traveller is at the aft end of the coachroof. This can be helpful when alone on a gusty night watch as it can be operated from within the protection of the effective sprayhood. One of the few criticisms of the boat we could find is that the 4:1 purchase for the traveller proved inadequate. However, compared to deficiencies we see at times on other prototype boats this is a minor issue that’s easy to rectify on production models.

Helm stations are well aft in the boat, especially compared to centre cockpit bluewater designs. However, the ability of today’s autopilots is such that on passage it is likely to be steering the bulk of the time. If a backup system is specified – and the boat has multiple charging sources for redundancy (such as regeneration, a genset and adequate solar) – the set up can be relied on for many thousands of miles, assuming diligent routine maintenance.

Unlike many decksaloon yachts all lines are handled at the cockpit, even with the standard slab reefing mainsail. The deck layout is based around a pair of Harken winches on each coaming outboard of the cockpit benches and just ahead of the helm stations. The arrangement broadly works well, particularly as a lot of effort has been made to keep friction at bay.

A horizontal bar in the decksaloon windows takes the halyards and other lines aft from the mast, running in stainless steel conduits and with minimal deflection, markedly reducing friction. Even so, most owners will want the electric option for the winches.

The Xc47 is a pivotal model for the Danish yard.

The test XC47 was set up with a 106% headsail and there’s also provision for a self-tacking jib, with a recessed foredeck track that can be retrofitted if necessary, even on boats with a full teak deck.

To reduce effort associated with sail handling, without compromising sail shape, around 80% of larger X-Yachts leave the yard with the optional composite Furlerboom. This makes hoisting, lowering and reefing all straightforward when close-hauled, especially if the jib is trimmed on and therefore bends the airflow further forward over the mainsail.

X-Yachts tells me the boat is designed to handle full main with the apparent wind well aft of the beam in up to 25 knots of true wind. That seems to be a fair assumption, given the ease with which it handled 20-knot gusts reaching with the gennaker. However, when sailing downwind in a rising breeze the system makes it important to think further ahead than on a boat with slab reefing (that allows sail to be shortened with the apparent wind aft of the beam).

The layout around the pedestals makes it easy to sail short-handed with instruments and winches to hand. Photo: Ludovic Fruchaud/imacis.fr/EYOTY

With the set up on the test XC47 it may be possible to drop the first reef in with the wind aft of the beam, but beyond that the luff of the sail tends to creep forwards along the mandrel in the boom, so it’s not feasible to take deeper reefs in a similar manner. That means luffing up to bring the apparent wind forward of the beam, making it a much livelier experience.

On deck stowage includes a forward sail locker with space for two furling sails, plus an anchor locker that will take 150m of chain.

Instead of a space-consuming tender garage the XC47 has a huge lazarette aft, plus dedicated liferaft stowage. An optional novel davit system is integrated with the hinged bathing platform such that the dinghy is automatically launched when the platform is lowered. For longer passages the tender can also be stowed on the foredeck.

The beam wide lazarette offers plenty of stowage and contains a neat liferaft launching system. Photo: Ludovic Fruchaud/imacis.fr/EYOTY

Power decisions

At 640lt the standard water tankage is not overly generous, though that will not be a concern for those who specify a watermaker. Equally there are plenty of boats in this market that offer more than 500lt of fuel tankage, though the hybrid propulsion system (a €120,000 upgrade) fitted to the test boat, a pre-production prototype, is significantly more efficient than a conventional diesel motor.

An increasing number of X-Yachts’ clients are now asking for hybrid propulsion. The system developed for the XC47 uses Oceanvolt’s 25kW Servoprop, which just won the overall DAME innovation award in November (see page 14), in place of a standard 109hp diesel. This is coupled to a 46.8kWh battery pack that’s only marginally smaller than that of a Tesla Model 3 car, plus there’s an 11kW Fischer Panda range-extending generator. This produces enough power to drive the boat at 6.8 knots in flat water and no wind, without input from the battery bank. The efficiency of this combination is such that Oceanvolt reckons range under power is increased by around 30% compared to diesel propulsion.

At 8.5 knots boat speed the regenerating function produced 500W of power, a figure which ought to increase by 30-50% with the correct propeller fitted.

The semi decksaloon has ample light, headroom and natural ventilation at the expense of different floor levels. Photo: Ludovic Fruchaud/imacis.fr/EYOTY

Stowage solutions

Below decks X-Yachts has obviously spent time and money on creating an arrangement that feels spacious, but where you can move around at sea safely. For a bluewater boat the stowage is also worth particular mention thanks to the numerous lockers of all sizes.

A combination of the changes in the hull shape and the decksaloon configuration mean interior volume is the same as that of the Xc50 and 21% larger than the now-discontinued Xc45. The decksaloon of the new model has a raised sole aft in the main accommodation area, with a space underneath it for tankage, battery banks and other technical items. This leaves most of the space under the bunks and settees free of systems and therefore available for stowage of larger items. The main exception on the test boat was an aircon unit under the port settee.

There is a lot more interior storage than a Pure X model of similar size would have and it’s neatly divided into both large and small compartments, drawers and so on. This is time-consuming and expensive to produce, but makes a huge difference when spending extended periods of time on board.

Superb stowage in the galley (and throughout the interior). Photo: Ludovic Fruchaud/imacis.fr/EYOTY

There are also reassuringly deep fiddles, including a pair on the galley worktop that can be turned upside down to give a big flat work area when in port.

In the design phase X-Yachts created a full-scale mockup of the interior and heeled it to 20º in both directions. The outcome is worthy of praise – it feels spacious, there’s relatively easy circulation for people, yet it doesn’t feel like there are awkward wide open spaces that are difficult to negotiate at sea.

This process might be considered as overkill and unnecessary expense, but important outcomes include extra handholds below decks, plus recesses in galley and chart table for fiddles so they can also double as effective handholds. That’s the kind of the level of detail needed to create a top notch product.

In any case, while it remains unusual, building full-scale mockups is by no means unprecedented. At the other end of the scale, for example, back when the Laser SB3 sportsboat was being developed the team at The Laser Centre put a mockup of the cockpit in the company’s offices to sit in during coffee breaks. They quickly figured out exactly the optimum position for every element of deck hardware across all manoeuvres. That boat was also a huge success from the outset.

Forward master berth has yet more large and accessible stowage. Photo: Ludovic Fruchaud/imacis.fr/EYOTY

On the XC47 the owner’s cabin will impress thanks to a combination of space, light and ventilation, plus excellent stowage. The aft cabins, which benefit from the additional beam carried aft and extra clearance below the cockpit floor, have a very flexible layout. They can be arranged with twin side-by-side berths, or as a huge double.

There’s a massive amount of easily accessed stowage – the inboard cushion, for instance lifts on gas struts to reveal a large top tray for easily accessed items, with deeper stowage below that. It’s also possible to specify a two cabin option with one of the quarter cabins forming a large utility space, plus a single bunk, and up to 300lt of extra refrigeration capacity.

Throughout the interior of the XC47 there are a lot of opening overhead hatches, including a forward facing one above the head of the bed in the master cabin forward, which helps maximise natural ventilation at anchor. There’s also a very neat covered ventilation system for the heads and galley area that can be left open at sea. It’s one of the best ideas of its type that I have seen and certainly proved effective during our test.

Aft heads and cabin (which can be a utility cabin). Photo: Ludovic Fruchaud/imacis.fr/EYOTY

One of the most notable aspects of the interior is how impressively quiet the XC47 is when going to windward, with none of the creaking or groaning that’s often encountered. Hull construction is vacuum infused, post-cured foam core sandwich using E-glass and epoxy. Carbon reinforcement is used strategically in structural members, particularly in the bottom of the hull, allowing these to be smaller and therefore intrude less into the accommodation space.

Carbon is also used in the coachroof to distribute the mainsheet traveller loads without resorting to structural pillars in the galley area, while the boat still features X-Yachts’ trademark galvanised frame to distribute keel and rig loads.

If you enjoyed this….

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While it has some conservative traits this is an innovative yacht in many respects. X-Yachts has tried hard to retain good sailing performance, with a responsive feel, in a heavier design. Equally a lot of thought, knowledge and development work has clearly gone into this model, without temptation to cut corners. The result is a very nicely presented package and an excellent execution of this type of boat that grew on me during the test. Is it the best bluewater cruiser ever built? The answer to that question is complex and nuanced. There are some whose needs will best served by a multihull, while some of those who choose a monohull will happily sacrifice load carrying ability for planing performance. Equally this part of the market has historically been dominated by centre cockpit designs for the protection they offer together with larger owners’ cabins aft with more privacy. However, few will equal the enticing combination of the very solid and reassuring feel of the Xc47, the pleasure of sailing this yacht, and its very civilised and well organised accommodation.

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Boat Test: 2024 Viaggio Lago V 16U

By Jeff Hemmel
July 16, 2024

Measuring 18 feet, 4 inches, Viaggio’s Lago V 16U is one tiny ’toon. Why embrace shrinkage when supersizing seems the norm? Smaller boats cost less, and they stow and tow easier.

Though small, the Lago V 16U definitely lives large on the water. Its deck extends the entire length of the pontoons, and it measures 8 feet, 6 inches in width. That means more usable space than many similarly sized models. Viaggio also maximizes the floor plan. Your crew will enjoy seating that wraps nearly the entire perimeter, including a 12-foot-long portside lounge.

Interior and Accessories

True to Viaggio’s roots, the Lago V 16U retains a decidedly upscale vibe. The exterior follows the brand’s familiar palette of trendy, matte-metallic finishes and sleek bilevel fence panels. Oversize rails, trim and skirting are all anodized in black and seem more like aesthetic accents than stodgy structure. Within, a sculpted fiberglass helm features a tinted windscreen, a vinyl-wrapped eyebrow, chrome-bezel gauges, backlit push-button controls and an illuminated Viaggio logo. Roto-molded seat bases, covered in vinyl, offer a contrasting color to the buttery-soft pillow-top seating above. Standard amenities include a Clarion sound system, a 10-foot-long Bimini top with anodized frame, LED interior lighting, a polished stainless-steel boarding ladder, and a mooring cover.

Viaggio’s construction details stand out as well. Twin tubes are 25 inches in diameter. C-channel crossmembers are spaced 16 inches on center and topped with ¾-inch marine-grade plywood and durable, woven-vinyl flooring. All welds are backed by a limited lifetime warranty. The aluminum for the tubes is 0.10-inch thick. I’d contend that the only real trade-off in this pint-size pontoon is the choice of available power. While certainly fuel-efficient and fine for casual cruising, the 60 hp Suzuki outboard, even with the motor’s High Energy Rotation lower unit, had its work cut out for it when it came to performance on our test boat. Top speed failed to surpass 18 mph with our two-passenger load. The overall feeling, however, is of a boat-and-motor combo that definitely punches above its weight class.

How We Tested

Engine: Suzuki DF60AV
Drive/Prop: Outboard/Suzuki 11 5/8″ x 12″ 3-blade aluminum
Gear Ratio: 2.42:1 Fuel Load: 14 gal. Crew Weight: 400 lb.

High Points

Pillow-top furniture swathed in buttery-soft vinyl.
Standards include 10-foot Bimini with -anodized frame, mooring cover, woven vinyl flooring.
Sculpted fiberglass helm.
Wide beam compared with similar-length pontoon boats.
Worthwhile options include digital depth finder/transducer, integrated docking lights with flip-up stainless-steel cleats, helm seat slider.
Standard Clarion sound system
Stylish and upscale—but many of today’s buyers might find its maximum 60 hp rating underwhelming.

Toughest Competitors

SunTracker’s Party Barge 18 DLX ($27,760 with a Mercury 60 FourStroke) is competitively priced but lacks the Viaggio’s upscale feel.
Another intriguing option is Sea-Doo’s Switch 19 ($36,199 with a 170 hp jet drive). It features a configurable floor plan and seating for up to 10 people.

Pricing and Specs

	$40,974 (with Suzuki DF60AV)
	18’4″
	8’6″
	3’0″
	1,896 lb.
	NA
	5’0″
	28 gal.
	60
	Honda, Mercury, Suzuki or Yamaha outboards to 60 hp

Speed, Efficiency, Operation

Viaggio Pontoon Boats – Bristol, Indiana; viaggiopontoonboats.com

More: 0-20ft , 2024 , August/September 2024 , boat tests , Boats , outboards , Pontoon Boats , Viaggio Pontoon Boats

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The Best Marine Varnish: Exterior Wood Finish Tests

Two-part varnishes leading in durability as long-term test reaches 24-month mark..

Like spotting land after a long passage, were glad to say that the end of our long-term exterior wood finishes test is finally on the horizon. Time, weather, and Southwest Floridas unrelenting sunshine have clearly taken their toll on the test panels over the last 24 months, and as the evaluation moves into its third year, only 19 of the original 54 test products will continue on in our survival-of-the fittest finish matchup. Given that most wood coatings are rarely expected to last longer than two years in the marine environment-particularly in super-sunny locales-its no surprise that we’ve seen more significant changes in the coatings in the last six months than we had in previous checkups.

Our search for the ideal wood finish-relatively easy to apply, easy to maintain, lasts multiple seasons, and is affordable-began in 2007 when we took a look at the different types of exterior wood finishes on the market, their pros and cons, and how easy they were to apply ( one-part varnishes , August 2007; varnish alternatives , October 2007; two-part varnishes , December 2007; teak oils and stains , April 2008). Launched in 2008, the long-term panel test aimed to determine which type of coating offers the best and longest protection and which products stand out among their peers.

We hope the comparison enables readers to decide which finish best matches their own taste, potential labor investment, and wood protection needs.

We’ve rated the test products every six months and reported on the coatings durability in the May 2009 issue ( six-month checkup ), December 2009 issue ( 12 months ), and January 2011 ( 18 months ) issues. Here, we offer the two-year report on the survivors.

How We’re Testing the Marine Varnishes

Testers applied dozens of exterior wood finishes (22 one-part varnishes, six two-part varnishes, 18 synthetics and satins/varnish alternatives, and eight teak oils and sealers) to small panels of bare solid teak. Each was assigned a number for blind judging and was applied per manufacturers instructions. If makers gave a range for the number of coats to apply, testers went with the minimum.

Initial testing rated each products ease of application and original gloss and reflective qualities. In the summer of 2008, the test panels were mounted on a wooden rack (aka: The Rack), which was set up in an unobstructed area on the roof of the PS workshop in Sarasota, Fla., to ensure that all panels received the same amount of weather exposure. The top part of each panel was covered to create a control area that testers used for comparison over time. Every six months, we disassembled The Rack and rated the panels on how well their coating integrity, gloss, and color had fared over time with constant exposure to the elements.

The test was designed as an endurance test, a fight to the finish, so we have not done any maintenance coats or touch-ups to the test panels. These products can be expected to have much longer lifespans if they are regularly maintained.

How We’re Rating the Marine Varnishes

Testers rate each panel on three long-term performance criteria: coating integrity, gloss retention, and color retention. Excellent and Good coating integrity ratings mean that no maintenance is needed; a Fair indicates that its time for a maintenance coat; Poor means the fat lady has sung, and the coating would need to be removed and re-applied. Excellent ratings are given only to those with an uncompromised coating. This time, panels with Poor and Fair- coating integrity were pulled from the test.

Color and gloss retention ratings are relative to the panels original finish. Initial gloss and ease of application are relative to the field within each coating category; these were assigned immediately after the panels were coated.

It was tougher to pick Recommended coatings at the two-year mark, as most wood finishes aren’t intended to go that long without maintenance. One-part varnishes that earned PSs recommendation this go-round were rated Fair for coating integrity (none rated better than Fair ) and had no Poor ratings. Recommended two-part systems rated Good or better for coating integrity with no Poor ratings. No varnish alternatives or teak oils/sealers were recommended at two years.

VALUE GUIDE: Varnish Alternatives

PRODUCT	PRICE	AFTER 2 YEARS COAT INTEGRITY	GLOSS RETENTION	COLOR RETENTION	AFTER 1 YEAR COAT INTEGRITY	GLOSS RETENTION	COLOR RETENTION	INITIAL RATINGS EASE OF APPLICATION	GLOSS/ FINISH NOTES
Epifanes Rapidclear	$26/ quart	Poor	Poor	Fair	Fair	Good	Fair	Excellent	Clear/satin
Interlux Sikkens Cetol Marine (alone)	$25/ quart	Fair	N/A	Fair+	Excellent	N/A	Good	Excellent	Opaque amber/ matte
Interlux Sikkens Cetol with Marine Gloss	$25/ quart (Gloss $28)	Fair+	Poor	Good	Excellent	Excellent	Good	Good	Opaque amber; clear overcoat/ Satin
Interlux Sikkens Cetol Marine Light (alone)	$25/ quart	Fair	N/A	Fair	Good+	N/A	Fair	Excellent	Opaque light amber/ matte
Interlux Sikkens Cetol Marine Light with Marine Gloss	$25/ quart (Gloss: $28)	Fair+	Poor	Good	Excellent	Excellent	Good	Good	Opaque amber; clear overcoat/ satin
Interlux Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak with Marine Gloss	$26/ quart (Gloss: $28)	Fair-	Fair	Poor	Good	Good	Fair	Good	Golden-translucent, clear overcoat/ satin
Le Tonkinois Bio Impression with Vernis	N/A	Fair	Poor	Fair	Good	Fair	Fair	Good	Warm, dark amber/ high gloss
West Marine WoodPro Plus Semi-Gloss	$30/ quart	Poor	Poor	Fair	Fair	Fair	Fair	Good	Clear/ satin
WoodPlus Marine Natural	$21/ quart	Fair-	Poor	Poor	Good	Good	Fair	Excellent	Reddish brown/ low gloss
Ace Spar Varnish Gloss 16373	$13/ quart	Fair-	Fair-	Good	Good	Good	Good	Excellent	Good
Coelan (with primer)	$145/ kit	Fair-	Fair	Fair-	Excellent	Excellent	Good	Good	Excellent
Deft Defthane Poly Satin	$13/ quart	Fair-	Poor	Fair-	Excellent	Good	Good	Excellent	Fair
Detco Crystal	$41/ quart	Good-	Fair	Fair-	Good	Good	Good	Fair	Good
Epifanes Clear High Gloss	$27/ quart	Fair-	Fair-	Good	Excellent	Excellent	Good	Good	Excellent
Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss	$36/ quart	Fair	Poor	Fair	Excellent	Excellent	Good	Good	Excellent
HMG K Type Varnish	$30/ liter	Poor	Poor	Poor	Excellent	Good	Fair	Good	Excellent
Interlux Goldspar Cllear	N/A	Fair+	Fair-	Fair+	Good	Excellent	Good	Good	Excellent
Interlux Jet Speed	N/A	Fair	Poor	Fair	Fair	Fair	Good	Excellent	Excellent
Interlux Schooner	$23/ quart	Fair+	Fair-	Poor	Good+	Good	Fair	Good	Good
Le Tonkinois No. 1	$35/ liter	Fair-	Poor	Fair	Fair	Fair	Good	Excellent	Excellent
Le Tonkinois Vernis	$33/ liter	Fair+	Fair-	Fair+	Excellent	Fair	Good	Excellent	Excellent
Minwax In/Outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethane	$17/ quart	Fair	Fair	Poor	Good	Good	Fair	Excellent	Excellent
Pettit Bak V-Spar 2053	N/A	Fair-	Poor	Poor	Fair	Poor	Fair	Excellent	Excellent
Pettit Z-Spar 2015 Flagship	$30/ quart	Fair	Fair	Fair	Good	Excellent	Good	Excellent	Excellent
Pettit Z-spar Captain's Ultra Clear 2067	$30/Quart	Fair+	Fair	Fair	Excellent	Good	Fair	Excellent	Excellent
Pettit Z-Spar Captain’s 1015 Traditional Amber	$28/ quart	Fair-	Poor	Fair	Excellent	Good+	Good	Good	Good
Pettit Z-Spar Captain’s EZ Care 1016 (Woolsey)	N/A	Fair	Fair-	Good	Good	Good	Good	Excellent	Good
West Marine 5-Star Premium	$32/ quart	Fair-	Poor	Fair	Excellent	Good	Fair	Good	Excellent
TWO-PART SYSTEMS
Bristol Finish, Traditional Amber	$70/ kit (1 quart)	Poor	Fair	Good	Fair	Excellent	Good	Excellent	Excellent
HMG Acrythane XSC	$45/ liter	Fair	Good	Fair+	Good+	Excellent	Good	Good	Good
Honey Teak with overcoat	$2/ sq. ft.	Fair-	Good	Fair	Fair	Good	Good	Excellent	Excellent
Interlux Perfection	$60/ kit (1 quart)	Excellent	Excellent	Good	Excellent	Excellent	Good	Good	Excellent
Nautiking NautiThane	$120/ kit (1 quart)	Good	Good-	Good	Excellent	Excellent	Good	Excellent	Good
Smith Five-Year Clear	N/A	Good	Good	Fair	Good+	Excellent	Good	Good	Excellent

What We Found

What a difference a season makes! With the exception of a few two-part products, the test coatings had lost their sparkle at the two-year mark. Ratings slipped across the board. The UV abuse had obviously taken its toll, sucking the life out of most of the coatings, particularly the clear finishes.

Those clinging to life with Fair coating integrity are still protecting the wood, but they’ve lost their looks. In the real world, all of the one-part varnish and varnish alternative test panels would be due for a maintenance coat, and some-like HMG K Type Varnish, West Marine WoodPro Plus (rebranded Epifanes Rapidclear), and Ace Spar Varnish-would be overdue.

The biggest overall decline was within the one-part varnish test group: Not a single one rated better than Fair for coating integrity or gloss retention, and nearly half of the test field was retired after this rating round. Just six months before, eight of the 19 products rated Good for coating integrity and six rated Good for gloss retention. In 12 months, seven dropped from an Excellent coating integrity to a Fair.

The one-part varnishes offering the most protection after two years are Detco Crystal, Le Tonkinois Vernis, and Pettits Z-Spar Captains 2067. However, their extended protection comes with tradeoffs: Detco rated only Fair for application, Le Tonks gloss started to slip after one year, and Pettits 2067 started losing its original color after 12 months.

One hardware store varnish has surprisingly held its own over the long haul: Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane. At half the cost of the Recommended one-part varnishes, Minwax slacked in the color retention department, but it has proven its multi-season durability.

Four of the nine varnish alternatives have been voted off The Rack after two years, and none performed well enough to earn our recommendation for two-year wood protection.

The Cetol products are still at the head of the pack, albeit a somewhat mangy-looking pack. The cloudy, opaque look of the Cetol Marine and Marine Light products may not appeal to everyone, but the fact they’ve maintained their color for more than a year is a good example that higher-solids finishes tend to offer better UV protection.

The Cetol Natural (with gloss) test panel fell from a Good coating integrity six months ago to being dropped from testing. Its performance mirrors what we’ve seen in the field: Give it a little loving once a year with a scrubby pad and a fresh coat, and it’ll last the long haul.

Its taken two years, but the two-part varnishes are finally starting to show their age. Surprisingly, the first products to be dropped from this group are two that performed well in past PS tests: Bristol Finish and Honey Teak. This is likely because the life of a wood finish in Florida is always going to be shorter than in our past test locales in New England.

The other two-parts are still holding up well, with Interlux Perfection and Nautiking Nautithane offering uncompromised protection and better-than-expected gloss after 24 months. Perfection has been reformulated since the test began and is now sold as Perfection Plus.

The temporarily discontinued (since 2009) Smiths Five Year Clear has also proven to be a top-notch finish, but its not available at this time.

While HMG Acrythane XSC didn’t earn our Recommendation this time, it was a top 18-month finish, it still looks good, and it costs less than the Nautithane.

Conclusions About Exterior Varnishes

After two years of testing, we’ve come to accept that perhaps there’s no Holy Grail of exterior wood finishes. It would appear, unfortunately, that we can’t have it all: easy to apply, easy to maintain, long-lasting protection, and a budget-friendly price tag. The reality is that, like much in life, wood protection is all about compromise and balancing your needs with your wants.

There’s no one-size-fits-all solution, and the boat owner who finds gratification in the wet, glossy look of a two-part varnish borne of painstaking preparation and careful application will weigh our test data much differently than the one who regards brightwork maintenance as a masochistic endeavor. For the latter, we recommend seeking out a varnish alternative (easy to apply, easy to maintain) that suits your tastes. With modest maintenance, the Cetol products with gloss overcoats have proven to be the most durable.

For areas where slippery-when-wet coatings wont do, Cetol Natural (without gloss overcoat) or our top-pick teak oil, Star brites Tropical Teak Sealer (classic teak) should be considered. The Star brite will need to be reapplied every three or four months.

If you’re looking for a harder, more abrasion-resistant finish that’ll make it past the year mark, check out the top one-part varnishes like Detco Crystal or Pettits Z-Spar Captains 2067. Boat owners in sailing areas that see less sunshine than our Florida test site should also consider Pettits Flagship 2015 or Captains 1015. One-part varnishes require a little more work upfront and quick attention when they are scratched or dinged, but they also offer a more traditional, high-gloss look. The one-part varnishes in our test slipped dramatically after a year and half, so we suggest an annual maintenance coat, whether they look like they need it or not.

As this test has shown, when it comes to long-lasting protection and gloss, two-part varnishes just can’t be beat. They may be a pain to apply-and should you let the coating fail, you had better invest in a heat gun-but their durability is unmatched.

The top two-part after two years of testing was Interlux Perfection. Because we’ve not yet tested the reformulated Perfection, the top pick honors go to Nautikings Nautithane. While its price tag ($120 per quart kit) is a bit hard for most of us to swallow, Nautithane earned across-the-board Good ratings after two years.

The Best Marine Varnish: Exterior Wood Finish Tests

Practical Sailor often supplements panel testing with product challenges aboard our test boats to see whether top products still earn their keep in the real world and to try out new products. Two such evaluations are our exterior wood finish tests.

In the January 2011 issue, we introduced a head-to-head matchup of varnish alternatives—market-newcomer PolyWhey from Vermont Natural Coatings versus perennial favorite Interlux’s Sikkens Cetol Natural Teak—that had been applied to our Cape Dory 25 test boat. For that test, we’ve just let nature run its course: no band-aid touchups, no maintenance coats, no freshwater rinses, no TLC at all.

Comparatively, we’ve been testing Cetol Natural aboard our Chesapeake Bay-based Union 36 test boat, where it was laid on with the Cetol gloss overcoat in 2008; in this evaluation, testers have applied annual maintenance coats and given the coating regular TLC. Here’s the latest on both of these tests:

PolyWhey vs. Cetol Death Match

In the fall of 2010, testers applied three coats of Caspian Clear PolyWhey to the coamings and companionway trim on the Cape Dory, which is sailed several times a week and lives on a mooring in Sarasota Bay, Fla. We also applied Cetol Natural to the boat’s toerail, and previously had applied it to the tiller and forward hatch trim.

PolyWhey is a unique wood finish that uses whey protein, a by-product of the cheesemaking process, as a binder. It’s touted as a more eco-friendly and more sustainable coating than petroleum-based polyurethanes, which can have up to 75 percent more volatile organic compounds (VOCs).

Consistently among the top varnish alternatives in PS’s tests, Cetol Natural is not as muddy-looking as its predecessors, Cetol Marine Light and Cetol Marine—like the Caspian Clear, it allows the wood’s natural grain to show and has a low gloss.

As far as application, both the Cetol and PolyWhey are quick and easy to apply, with much shorter recoat times than hard varnishes and less (or no) sanding between coats. The main difference that we found in these two finishes was with durability.

The PolyWhey turned out to be a much softer coating than the Cetol. It held up for about two months, but after three months, it was in need of a recoat, and at six months, it needed a total takedown—and Cetol had emerged as the death-match victor.

The PolyWhey on the coaming was the first to go: Where crew backs often lean against the wood, the finish was all but gone after four months. The PolyWhey on the companionway slides held on for about that long, but by six months, they were ready for a do-over as well.

The Cetol on the toerail was in need of a few touchups after six months, mostly in areas where fenders and docklines came in contact with it. But the tiller and hatch trim were still fairly well-protected almost a year after application. Although we’d recommend a maintenance coat at this point, testers plan to see how many more months we can eek out of the coating before we reach the point of no return.

Bottom line : We applaud VNC’s efforts to offer a “green” wood finish—and their creative recycling of dairy industry “trash”—but we can’t recommend it over Cetol for an exterior coating in the marine environment.

Cetol with Overcoat

Testers applied three coats of Cetol Natural with Cetol Marine Gloss overcoat to the Union in March 2008. Once a year, we scuff it up with a 3M pad, give it a freshwater rinse, and brush on a maintenance coat.

Compared to a clear, glossy varnish, it looks decent and the maintenance regimen is more realistic for our tastes and available time. However, one downside to softer, varnish alternative coatings—even those with an overcoat—is that they don’t stand up as well as hard finishes to dings and abrasion. Example: The Union’s toerail has one place in need of touching-up where a fender line wore away the finish. (See photo above.)

Bottom line : The Cetol Natural with overcoat has held up very well. While applying the topcoat may mean added effort, both our panel tests and test-boat evaluations have shown that the coating will last much longer and need fewer bandaids if the soft Cetol is protected with the semi-hard topcoat.

Teak oils and other naturally based finishes like PolyWhey, need maintenance coats every few months. Their chemical cousins, however, like Cetol, have proven they can offer good protection with only annual nurturing and the occasional touchup.

C-Tech Marine (Bristol)
Deft Finishes
Le Tonkinois
Premapro (Coelan)
Signature Finishes
Smith’s Five Year Clear
Vermont Natural Coatings
West Marine
Woodplus Marine

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Performance Bulletin

Sportsman Masters 227

Length	22' 5"
Beam	8' 4"
Dry Weight (Boat Mfr. Pub)	3,663 lbs
Maximum HP	250 hp
Fuel Capacity	70 gal
Weight as Tested	5,068 lbs

Horsepower	200 hp
Induction	EFI/VCT/DOHC
Displacement	2.8L
Weight (Estimated)	525 lbs
Gear Ratio	1.86:1

Engine Mounting Height

Mounting Hole Position	#2
Ventilation Plate Height	3/4" Above Boat Bottom

Propeller(s)

Series	Reliance
Diameter x Pitch	14-1/4 x 17
Yamaha Part #	68F-45972-00-00
Propeller Material	Stainless Steel

Test Conditions

Number of People	2
Air / Water Temperature (Fahrenheit)	80° F / 82° F
Elevation (in feet above sea level)	0'
Wind Velocity	10-15 MPH

Test weight includes 35 gallons of fuel, 5 batteries, 10" jack plate, twin Power Poles, safety and test equipment.

PB_SPT_Masters 227_F200XSA2_6-19-2024_BAY

Performance Data


1000	4.3	0.8	5.38
1500	5.9	1.4	4.18
2000	7.4	2.2	3.36
2500	8.6	3.4	2.51
3000	10.1	5.2	1.96
3500	20.4	6.3	3.24
4000	27.8	7.6	3.65
4500	32.8	10.6	3.11
5000	36.8	13.9	2.65
5500	40.5	17.0	2.38
5800	43.3	20.5	2.11

Time to Plane: 5.55 seconds<br /> 0-30 MPH: 11.9 seconds

Notice To Consumer The information and data contained in this Performance Bulletin is approximate and subject to many different factors and variables. It is provided as a guideline only and should not be relied upon as representative of actual performance. Your boat’s performance may be different than the information contained in this Performance Bulletin due to various factors, including your boat’s actual weight, wind and water conditions, temperature, humidity, elevation, bottom paint, boat options affecting wind/water drag and/or boat weight, and operator ability. Please confirm the specifications and performance data on your specific boat/engine combination with your dealer prior to purchase. Please also keep in mind that the data contained in this Performance Bulletin may or may not have been performed using Yamaha PowerMatched components. Yamaha reserves the right to change the specifications and performance data of this Performance Bulletin or engine without notice. This document contains many of Yamaha’s valuable trademarks. It may also contain trademarks belonging to other companies. Any references to other companies or their products are for identification purposes only, and are not intended to be an endorsement.

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