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Electric Sailboat Motor: Range, Cost, Best Kits for Conversion

Today, owning a completely green sailboat has been made possible with electric sailboat motors.

Imagine cruising with the silence of an electric sailboat motor and the ease of use with a simple press on the start button. What’s better is there are no exhaust fumes at all with significantly less maintenance.

It’s so appealing that a lot of sailing liveaboards have made their electric sailboat motor conversion.

However, some sailors are still on the fence, worrying about the range and price of the electric sailboat motor.

If you are one of them, you are in the right place!

This post will guide you through every aspect you need to know about electric sailboat motors to help you make an informed decision.

Besides, you will get professional insights on how to make the electric sailboat motor conversion for your own boat and learn the best electric sailboat motors (with honest reviews).

Table of contents:

• Electric Sailboat Motors: Confusion Explained

Electric Sailboat Motor or Combustion Motor

• Electric Yacht Motor Conversion: Two Solutions
• How to Size an Electric Sailboat Motor

Best Electric Sailboat Motors (with Reviews)

Electric Sailboat Motor: Confusion Explained

Can you go cruising with an electric sailboat motor? Can you put an electric motor on a sailboat? Are there any limitations?

Whether electric sailboat motors are a good fit for your boat is not a YES or NO question. Here we will explain your top worries with statistics and facts. That way, you can make a wise decision according to your situation.

You may hear some complaints about the batteries and range of the electric propulsion.

However, their experience may not suit electric sailboat motors.

In fact, even small electric engines work pretty well in many sailboats. That’s because most of the time, the wind can power the boat, and the motor is just used for docking or in rare times when there is no wind.

Therefore, it makes more sense to learn electric sailboat motor performance in real-world applications.

Here is a test report of a 3 HP electric sailboat motor on an RS21 racing sailboat:

As you can see, the small electric sailboat motor can run at 5.5 mph top speed for one hour continuously.

And there is a big difference in terms of range vs speed for electric sailboat motors:

If you lower the speed, the range and runtime can be greatly extended. The slower you go, the further you’ll get. For example, if you cut your speed in half, the electric sailboat motor can last 7 hours and go 20 miles within one charge.

That’s pretty sufficient if you use the electric yacht motor mostly for docking or as an auxiliary engine.

Faster top speed (and more range) is available with higher power electric sailboat motors depending on your specific requirements. Contact a specialist to design your electric sailboat motor solutions.

Also, don’t forget to get the electric sailboat motor with regeneration (See recommendations below).

That’s to say, when there is a lot of wind and you’re moving rapidly via your sails, they regenerate and store electric power on the batteries to keep you moving at other times. Solar recharging is also a plus.

Essentially, the range depends on how many batteries you have, so it’s not a limitation of electric sailboat motors but energy and batteries.

If you are still worried, you can offset this by getting a diesel generator, which is more efficient than a diesel engine. And it is a range extender when you need it, but for 90% of your motoring that you don’t need the range, you can rely on the electric sailboat motor.

Some of you might be concerned about the extra weight of the batteries.

In fact, an electric sailboat motor with lithium batteries weighs less than a diesel engine, particularly if you include the fuel weight.

If you want a lightweight electric sailboat motor solution, make sure you get one with LiFePO4 batteries . Compared with other marine batteries, they are more compact in design with much less weight and higher energy density.

Some more advanced electric motors for small sailboats (such as Spirit 1.0 Evo) feature an integrated lightweight battery. So you don’t need to worry about the complex wiring to hook it up or extra space to store the battery.

This is a huge plus if you want to use the electric sailboat motor on a tender or dinghy.

Here is also a chart that collects the weight of some popular electric sailboat motors for your reference:

For many people, another big problem with electric sailboat motors is the cost.

It’s true that a gasoline outboard with similar power is a lot cheaper to buy. However, the electric sailboat motor eventually wins in long-term operating cost. That’s especially the case if you are going to do a lot of motoring.

Electric sailboat motors save on fuel and maintenance costs, which can build up to a large amount over time.

Here is a chart that compares the cost of a 3HP electric sailboat motor (coming with a built-in battery) with its combustion counterpart:

That’s to say, you will cover the price difference for electric yacht motors eventually as long as you use it long enough. Click to check the details of the calculation .

What makes the electric sailboat motor even more worthwhile is it saves you a lot of hassles, especially for sailors who only use the engine in and out of the harbor. Dealing with the maintenance of the gas outboard for a 10 minute motor out of and into the harbor is disproportionate and painful.

*The higher horsepower electric sailboat motor may be different in terms of the cost calculation. Check out the outboard motor pricelist by HP for more information.

As you may have already noticed, electric propulsion has already been widely used in the marine industry:

It’s quiet while motoring, clean to handle, environmentally friendly, with less maintenance and operation costs.

The electric sailboat motors are easier to use with dramatically fewer moving parts to break and no worries about being a diesel mechanic to deal with the hard pulling start. You can have it always on, so it is ready whenever you need it.

And it makes even more sense in sailing applications:

You don’t really need to motor much if your plan is to actually sail. If you are completely becalmed, you will probably just need to motor at 2 knots to keep making way, which is easy for electric sailboat motors.

If you mostly use the motor to get into and out of the harbor, the electric sailboat motor also works great for you.

You can always charge up at the dock, motor out of the marina (or even motor to your sailing area or race start), then hoist the sails and when you’re through, the batteries are charged again.

The electric sailboat motor is also useful as a backup (kicker) motor in case your system goes down. That’s why you can see people pushing a lot of big boats with small electric motors. (Click to learn more information about kicker motors .)

Personally, it’s really nice to have an electric auxiliary in the boat – no smelly, messy diesel and motor oil to deal with, a much simpler system with less maintenance, and much, much quieter operation.

However, powerboats tend to have much higher requirements in terms of both power output and runtime. In that case, an electric sailboat motor can be hard to satisfy your needs.

How Do You Size an Electric Motor for a Sailboat?

As a rule of thumb, you will need approximately 1 HP per 550 lb of the displacement of your boat.

Generally speaking, a 3 HP electric sailboat motor can push a sailboat up to 25 ft and a 9.9 HP motor is sufficient for a 30 ft sailboat to motor at a satisfying speed.

However, bear in mind the horsepower you need always depends on your needs and applications.

It’s better to check the data from real-world tests to decide whether the electric sailboat motor is suitable for your specific needs.

For example, the 9.9 HP electric sailboat motor Navy 6.0 allows you to go at 6.9 mph (11.1 kph) on a 30 ft sailboat, and the range can be extended to 46.4 miles if you decrease your speed to 2.9 mph (4.6 kph).

Click to see more test reports with other electric motor and sailboat combinations, and find the electric sailboat motor that suits you best.

If you are still not sure about the size of the electric sailboat motor for you, feel free to leave us a comment and we will get back to you ASAP with professional suggestions.

Electric Sailboat Motor Conversion

Basically, there are two ways for you to convert your sailboat to a clean and quiet electric drive system:

You can either convert your current vessel to electric or buy an engineless yacht and install an electric sailboat motor on your own.

#1. Repower Your Sailboat with Electric Motor

If you decide to replace the diesel engine with an electric motor, you will need to do a lot of preparations:

The DIY approach requires an electric sailboat motor kit (including motor and controller), batteries, a good level of mechanical ability and basic electrical knowledge, as well as some common tools such as a voltmeter.

You will need to take the old engine out for the new electric sailboat motor installation. It’s not an easy task that involves removing the engine mounts and the drive shaft (dealing with the numerous hoses and cables), taking out the engine, exhaust system, fuel tank, and its attendant tubes, etc.

Remember to balance the boat to avoid listing during the electric sailboat motor conversion.

Then in with the new electric sailboat motor. The installation process can be straightforward if you choose the electric sailboat motor kit wisely (See steps below). Furthermore, you can set up solar charging for your electric sailboat motor with solar panels and charger.

Many sailors have recorded their electric sailboat motor conversion process and experience. Be sure to check them out to get some inspiration. For example, Ed Phillips has documented everything which can serve as a guide for newbies to get started.

Mind you there can be a whole heap that can go wrong in designing and maintaining the electric sailboat motor systems. You really need to be totally on top of it if you want decent performance or reliability.

If you are not that technically inclined, it’s better to talk to a specialist first to discuss your plan for a smooth electric sailboat motor conversion.

#2. Install an Electric Motor in a Sailboat

If you own an enginless sailboat, the electric sailboat motor conversion is much easier for you.

All you need to do is to find a reliable electric sailboat motor and install it in simple steps. The whole process can be easily done, even for beginners. Here we take the popular 6 HP electric sailboat motor Navy 3.0 as an example to show you the installation process:

• Step 1 : Rotate the clamps or use the screws to fix the outboard onto the sailboat.
• Step 2: Mount the steering system in the proper position.
• Step 3: Install the tiller on the electric sailboat motor.
• Step 4: Connect the batteries to the electric sailboat motor system.

Click to check the video tutorial that guides you through each step of the installation.

If you are worried about aesthetic issues and want higher horsepower options, an electric inboard motor can be a better suit for your sailboat. If you prefer an inboard motor for your sailboat, contact our OEM team to get an electric propulsion solution tailored to your needs.

Note : You might find some electric trolling motors rated by #s of thrust on the market. Actually, those electric trolling motors for sailboats can only provide limited speed and range. If you are heading into the wind, the trolling motors for sailboats are definitely not an ideal solution.

Once you’ve evaluated if electric sailboat motors are right for you, there are a lot of options for electric systems.

Here are some popular electric sailboat motors with positive reviews from customers worldwide. Fast charger is available for all the models recommended to reduce your charging stress.

#1. 3 HP Spirit 1.0 Evo

If you are looking for an electric motor for a small sailboat, be sure to check out the ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Evo. It’s suitable for large daysailers or small cruising sailboats under 25 ft.

With the Spirit 1.0 Evo electric sailboat motor, you can go 5.5 mph (8.8 kph) at top speed on the 21 ft RS21 sailing boat, or troll for 20 hours continuously at 2.2 mph (3.5 kph) according to our test .

This electric sailboat motor with regeneration allows you to recover energy from the prop while under sail. It will start to generate power automatically when the sailing speed reaches 2 knots.

As an electric auxiliary sailboat motor, it can also be easily installed on your tender boats or yacht dinghies since it’s portable and easy to transport (with a lightweight integrated battery).

Features You Will Love:

• Come with the industry-first hydrogeneration capability
• Direct-drive technology makes it maintenance-free
• Portable with a 1276Wh large integrated lithium battery for long range
• Safety wristband keeps you safe in case of MOB
• Digital operation keeps you informed of the battery status

Spirit 1.0 Evo Electric Sailboat Motor Reviews:

“Great weekend with my 17′ sailboat powered by the Spirit Evo. This is great. Quiet and reliable. Went at 3/4 throttle for about 1.5hrs when taking it back to boat ramp.” – Robert Taylor

“Very happy with our Spirit Plus. Pushing our Kolibri 560 a 750 Kg sailboat, with ease. Doing about 5.8 km/h at 500W.” – Frank van Asten

#2. 6HP/9.9 HP Navy Evo Series

If you want a little more juice on the electric sailboat motor, check out the ePropulsion Navy Series. It offers 6 HP and 9.9 HP models for your selection and it provides sufficient power for sailboats up to 30 ft.

According to our test , the 6 HP electric motor Navy 3.0 can push the Catalina 25 sailboat (25 ft) at 6 mph (9.6 kph) top speed, while the Olga 33 sailboat (33 ft) can go at 7.5 mph (12 kph) with the 9.9 HP Navy 6.0 motor.

The Navy series electric sailboat motor also comes with regeneration features which can be recharged with hydrogeneration, wind turbine, and solar panel.

• Four controls to fit your sailboat installation and your boating style
• Accompany LiFePO4 batteries (need separate purchase) are more energy efficient
• Digital display offers real-time monitoring of the power and battery
• Magnetic kill switch and safety wristband keep you safe on the boat
• Electric start saves you trouble pulling the cord to start

Navy Series Electric Sailboat Motor Reviews:

“I have a Navy 3.0 with E80 on a Catalina 25 sailboat. It is working well. Currently I am using about 4% battery to go in/out of the marina by boat.” – Aaron Young

“Just finished my 8 weeks sailing journey in the Baltic Sea. The two Navy 3 outboards provide enough power for my 33ft catamaran. The 400W solar panels provided enough energy for engines and all other energy consumed on board with 2-6 persons. The two Navy Batteries provide power for engines and all other on-board electric devices. I never had to use shore power, so totally self-sufficient electric system.” – Martin Hildebrand

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Everything electric boats and boating

Electric Inboard Boat Motors

Plugboats Guides Motors News Motors For Sale

With information about 150 electric inboard boat motors from 17 manufacturers, welcome to what we believe is the most complete guide to electric inboard motors. It has been assembled to provide a single place where someone interested in electric marine propulsion can find the top line details to compare electric inboard motors made all over the world.

You may also be interested in our other guides »» Guide to Electric Outboards Under 5kW »»  Guide to El ectric Outboards Over 5kW »»  Guide to Electric Saildrives and Pods »» Guide to Electric Trolling Motors »» Guide to Electric Boat Batteries

»» Plugboats also has the world’s largest and most complete Directories of over 600 electric boats, motors, batteries, accessories, solar panels and rental/charter companies

Information on using the Plugboats Electric Inboard Guide

The top of this web page is an Illustrated Guide with photos of the motors and specifications to the right. At the bottom of the page is a Sortable/Searchable Table that lets you compare motors easily. If you are going to be using the table extensively the page is best viewed on a computer rather than smartphone or tablet.

• Illustrated Guide

The motors are organized in alphabetical order by manufacturer, then by model line. For the specifications we have tried to make it a user friendly as possible. If there are 3 models in the line, we will give the specs for each model with a comma in between. If there are many models, we give a range from without lining the specs up with specific models.

• Sortable/Searchable Table

The table can be searched with any keyword – manufacturer, for instance, or can be sorted by any of the columns: Peak kiloWatt power, Continuous kiloWatt power, estimated HP equvalent, Voltage, Dimensions (Length, Width, Height), Weight, RPMs, Type of motor and cooling system (air, liquid, water), and whether it is regenerative – capable of recharging when the boat is under sail propulsion.

All specifications are taken from the manufacturers’ websites or brochures without any independent verification. There is a lot of variety in the way manufacturers detail the attributes of their products, particularly when it comes to ‘Power’. Some use peak power as the measurement, some use continuous power, and there are other variations. Some quote minimum RPMs for their motors, others quote maximum RPMs. There is also no set standard for ‘horsepower equivalent’. We have tried to present the information as close as possible to an ‘apples to apples’ comparison.

The photographs and drawings are from the manufacturers’ websites and are not shown in any consistent scale.

Power Ratings – measured in kiloWatts kW  power rating quoted is taken from the manufacturer website. Some quote only peak power or continuous power, some quote input power and output power. We have indicated what the measurement is, although in the table we have used peak power as equal to input power and continuous as equal to output. power. HP is ‘HorsePower equivalent’ so that you can get an idea of the power of the motor in comparison to a HP rating you might be more familiar with. As noted above, there is a lot of leeway in how this is interpreted. When manufacturers have provided an HP equivalent we have used that.

• IN THE TABLE , when no HP equivalent has been provided, we have used the continuous power and multiplied it by 1.3 to indicate HP equivalent. We have noted it with an asterisk * when we have done this.

Voltage  is most often referred to on the sites as simply ‘Voltage’. Some indicate nominal or peak, we have used nominal and indicated if peak is also referenced.

Current  is noted when the manufacturer supplies the information. It is not included in the table.

Torque is shown in Newton metres, Nm. A Nm is about 3/4 of a foot-pound, or conversely, a foot-pound is about 1 and 1/3 Nm.

Dimensions of the motors and shaft are shown in millimetres – mm. There are about 300 mm in 1 foot, or about 25 mm in 1 inch.

Weight is in kilograms. A kilogram is 2.2 pounds.

Motor Types 
There are advantages and disadvantages to each kind of electric motor. Some manufacturers use abbreviations to describe their motors, others use the full words. We have used whatever the manufacturer prefers, but when abbreviations are used, this is what they mean:

BLDC: BrushLess Direct Current

PMAC: Permanent Magnet Alternating Current

Information on this page updated March 19, 2024

You may also want to check our Directory of Electric Boat Motor manufacturers, dealers and distributors around the world, or the Plugboats Marketplace of electric boat motors for sale.

Manufacturers in this Buying Guide: Bellmarine • Combi • Damoto • Elco • Electric Yacht • Electrine • EPTechnologies • ePropulsion • E-TECH • Fischer Panda • GreenStar Marine • Huracan • Krautler • Lynch • Mitek • Molabo • Newport Electric Boats • Oceanvolt • Piktronik • Synapseo • TEMA • Thoosa • Torqeedo • waterworld

Click on the Manufacturer’s name or red cross on right hand side to open and close window with information and links for that company’s electric electric inboards

Click »» here to see Bellmarine motors for sale from vendors in the Plugboats Market

»» Bellmarine website (EU)          »»  Bellmarine website (USA) »» Bellmarine catalogue (EU)      »»  Bellmarine catalogue (USA)

Bellmarine is a very well established electric boat motor company with a history going back to 1999. They have now been purchased by and are merged with Transfluid, a large scale industrial motor manufacturer. Bellmarine offers a wide range of electric inboard motor configurations, both direct drive shaft and reduction geared. They range from 2 kW to 130kW and come in four model lines: the straight drive Drivemaster, dual motor ModularMaster, geared Thrustmaster and high power Shaftmaster. They are sold as complete systems with optional extras available.

Bellmarine DriveMaster Air Cooled Series 9 Models: DriveMaster 2A, 5A, 7A, 8A, 10A, 15A, 25A, 35A, 50A

• kW : Peak: From 2kW – 50kW | Continuous: From 1.5kW – 40kW • Voltage : 48V – Models 2A, 5A, 7A, 10A | 96V – Models 8A, 15A | 144V – Models 25A, 35A, 50A
• Motor Type : Permanent Magnet AC (PMAC)
• Cooling : Air cooled
• RPM :  1500
• Includes : Motor with mounting brackets and silent blocks • Motor with integrated thrust bearing • Vector control inverter IP65 • NMEA2000 compatible (Apply Transfluid) • Main switch and main fuse • DC-DC converter 12 Vdc • 5m cable for display, lever, key • Quick install / easy connect / plug and play
• Available : Regeneration (with upgrade to battery monitor), Control throttle, display, cooling kit, coupling, shaft with propeller
• Country of Manufacture : Netherlands/Italy
• Price : NA on website

Bellmarine DriveMaster Liquid Cooled Series 9 Models: DriveMaster 3W, 7W, 10W, 15W, 20W, 20W-EVO, 30W, 45W, 55W

• kW : Peak: From 3kW – 55kW | Continuous: From 2.5kW – 45kW • Voltage : 48V – Models 3W, 7W, 10W, 15W, 20W-EVO | 96V – Model 20W | 144V – Models 30W, 45W, 55W
• Cooling : Liquid cooled
• Includes : Motor with mounting brackets and silent blocks • Motor with integrated thrust bearing • Vector control inverter IP65 • NMEA2000 compatible (Apply Transfluid) • Main switch and main fuse • DC-DC converter 12 Vdc 5m cable for display, lever, key • Quick install / easy connect / plug and play • Inlet and outlet liquid connections
• Available : Control throttle, display, cooling kit, coupling, shaft with propeller

Bellmarine ModularMaster Series 3 Models: ModularMaster 40W-EVO, 40W, 60W

• kW : Peak: 40, 40, 60 | Continuous: 30, 30, 50 • Voltage : 48V – 40W-EVO | 96V – 40W | 144V – 60W
• Includes :  True redundancy in case of one motor failure • Aluminum made split power drive • Mounting brackets and silent blocks • Live PTO available • Vector control inverter IP65 • NMEA2000 compatible (Apply Transfluid) • Main switch and main fuse • DC-DC converter 12 Vdc • 5m cable for display, lever, key • Quick install / easy connect / plug and play • Inlet and outlet liquid connections• Closed loop liquid cooling size XL mounted aboard
• Available : control throttle, display, cooling kit, coupling, shaft with propeller
• Country of Manufacture : Netherlands / Italy

Bellmarine TorqueMaster Series 2 Air cooled Models: TorqueMaster 20A, 25A 7 Liquid cooled Models: TorqueMaster 20W-EVO, 25W, 35W, 45W, 65W, 100W, 130W

• kW : Peak: 20 – 130 | Continuous: 15 – 100 • Voltage : 48V – 20W-EVO | 96V – 20A, 25W | 144V – 25A, 35W | 288V – 65W, 100W | 384V – 130W
• Cooling : See above
• RPM :  20W-EVO – 1500, all other Models 3000
• Includes : Motor with mounting brackets and silent blocks • Drop Box with integrated thrust bearing – 225 mm offset • Vector control inverter IP65 • NMEA2000 compatible (Apply Transfluid) • Main switch and main fuse • DC-DC converter 12 Vdc • 5m cable for display, lever, key • Quick install / easy connect / plug and play • Dropbox aluminum made – no cooling needed – low noise and low vibration • Oil temperature sensor • Elastic coupling between motor and Dropbox • DIN120 output (SAE 1410 upon request) – “U” drive possible

Bellmarine ShaftMaster Series 6 Models: ShaftMaster 25W, 35W, 45W, 64W, 100W, 130W

• kW : Peak: 25kW – 130kW | Continuous: 20 – 100 • Voltage : 96V – 25W | 144V – 35W | 288V – 45W, 65W, 100W | 384V – 130W
• Motor Type : Motor Type : Permanent Magnet AC (PMAC)
• RPM :  3000
• Includes : Motor with mounting brackets and silent blocks • Live Pto available • Marine gear with integrated thrust bearing (up to 130 kW) • Oil temperature sensor • Output offset 103 mm • Elastic coupling between motor and transmission • Vector control inverter IP65 • NMEA2000 compatible (Apply Transfluid) • Main switch and main fuse • DC-DC converter 12 Vdc • 5m cable for display, lever, key • Quick install / easy connect / plug and play • Inlet and outlet liquid connections • Throttle lever (TFC) • Self priming pump (mechanical) mounted aboard • Oil-water cooler mounted aboard • Closed loop liquid cooling size XL mounted aboard

»» Combi website

Combi Outboards was founded in 1979 in Giethoorn (‘the Dutch Venice’) to supply rental boats with clean electric power. It is now a leading international supplier of electric propulsion solutions for the maritime market. Combi inboards have all of the operating components in one housing, ready to plug in to batteries, throttle and monitoring systems. Motors are available both AC asynchronous (induction) and BLDC Permanent Magnet. The two larger inboards are dual motor, and can be operated on the Master / Slave principle but can also sail on a single motor. 

Combi Inboard 5 Models: CI-3.5, CI-5, CI-7.5, CI-10, CI-16, CI-20

• kW : From 3.5kW to 20kW • Voltage : 48V • Current : From Nominal –73 / Cruising speed – 50 to Nominal – 417 / Cruising – 240 • HP : From 9HP to 33HP
• Motor Type : Brushless AC asynchronous • OR • Brushless DC Permanent Magnet (PMDC) Cooling : CI-3.5 Air cooled, all others liquid cooled
• RPM :  From 1200 to 1500
• Shaft (cm) : Can be connected to all common propeller shaft sizes
• Includes : Our systems are constructed in such a way that all components are used in a motor housing. You just need to connect only the power cables. The engine foundation is prepared so that it is easy to install.
• Country of Manufacture : Netherlands

»» Damoto website

Damoto is a Dutch developer, manufacturer and distributor of an extensive range of premium electric inboard motors from 2kW to 40kW nominal. The first model dates from 2005 with more than 3000 boats equipped with it, including recreational sloops, charter and rental boats. The motors are now released under the name Damoto eFLOW but have been well known in the international maritime industry for many years.

Damoto eFLOW Original Series 5 models: eFLOW 2.0 Air, eFLOW 2.5 Air, eFLOW 3.0 Air, eFLOW 6.0 Air, eFLOW 11.0 Air

• kW : Nominal: 2kW to 11kW | Peak: 3kW to 15kW max
• Motor Type: Brushless 3 Phase Asynchronous • Cooling: Air cooled
• IP : IP66
• Includes : stainless steel motor frame with silent blocks, motor, thrust bearing, controller in stainless steel casing incl. marine software & PC/handheld connector for motor tuning, main power contactor & fuse, controller cable with connectors (Plug-n-Play)
• Available : Displays, throttle levers, shaft couplings
• Country of Manufacture : Netherlands / Europe
• Price : Not available on website

Damoto eFLOW Liquid Original Series 8 models: eFLOW 3.0 Liquid, eFLOW 5.0 Liquid, eFLOW 10.0 Liquid, eFLOW 15.0 Liquid, eFLOW 20.0 Liquid, eFLOW 30.0 Liquid, eFLOW 40.0 Liquid Dual Motor, eFLOW 14.0 Liquid 4Hybrid Dual Shaft

• kW : Nominal 3kW to 40kW | Peak: 6kW to 80kW
• Motor Type: Brushless 3 Phase Asynchronous • Cooling: Liquid cooled
• Includes : stainless steel motor frame with silent blocks, motor with liquid inlet & outlet, thrust bearing, controller in stainless steel casing incl. marine software & PC/handheld connector for motor tuning, on-board power converter (12V) integrated in controller casing, main power contactor & fuse, controller cable with connectors (Plug-n-Play)
• Available : Displays, throttle levers, cooling kits, shaft couplings

Damoto eFLOW Air All-in-One Series 3 models: eFLOW 2.0 Air AiO, eFLOW 3.0 Air AiO, eFLOW 6.0 Air AiO

• kW : Nominal 2kW to 6kW | Peak: 6kW to 80kW
• Includes : stainless steel housing, motor with silent suspension, thrust bearing, controller module incl. marine software & PC/handheld connector for motor tuning, main power contactor & fuse, connectors on box front (Plug-n-Play), wired & tested
• Available : throttle levers, shaft couplings

»» Elco website

Elco (Elco Motor Yachts) is the oldest electric boat motor company in the world, having been started in 1893 as the the Electric Launch Company to supply electric boats for the Chicago World’s Fair. It offers a full range of outboards, inboards and hybrids. Their Plug n Play system has all wiring and active power components in a marine grade aluminum casting rated IP-65. Can be purchased from the Elco website along with batteries, options and accessories, leading to a one-price checkout. They also have a ‘ Find My Motor ‘ calculator on the site.

Elco Inboards 6 Models: EP-6, EP-12, EP-20, EP-40, EP-70, EP-100

• kW : Peak: From 4.4kW – 73.5kW | Continuous: From 2.5kW – 42.5k • Voltage : From 36Vdc to 144 Vdc • Amps : 70A – 295A • HP : 6HP – 100 HP
• Dimension s: From L: 17” / W: 16.22” / H: 15.8” to L: 35”  /  W: 18.82”  /  H: 19.25” 
• Includes : Motor and controller.
• Available : Motor mounts, shaft couplers, batteries, battery monitor, chargers, cables, and other accessories
• Country of Manufacture : USA
• Price (does not include options) : $US 7,000 – 21,000

Electric Yacht

Electric Yacht is one of the premier US suppliers of electric motors for sailboats with a  Plug-n-Play system designed for DIY installation by “ a competent boat owner using simple tools and the easy to mount Electric Yacht system “. Their systems offer regenerative power while under the sail. 10 years of proven production with over 450 installs. 3 Year Warranty.

Electric Yacht QuietTorque single motor inboards 3 Models: QT5, QT10, QT10 Sport

• kW : Input – 2.5kW – 30kW, Continuous 2kW – 8kW • Voltage : 24, 36 or 48V for Quiet Torque 5.0, all others 48V • Current : 100A – 200A • HP : 10-25
• Motor Type : PMAC (Permanent Magnet Brushless AC) • Cooling : Air cooled • IP :
• RPM : 
• Dimensions : L: 432mm, W: 245mm, H (with mountings): 342mm Adjustable mountings • Weight : 40 lbs, 70 lbs
• Includes : The motors are sold as systems with everything included except the battery, which can also be purchased from the company. The systems can be purchased directly from the website.
• Price : $US 5,000 – 9,000

Electric Yacht QuietTorque dual motor inboards 6 Models: QT20, QT30-Air-Cooled, QT30-Liquid-Cooled, QT40, QT45, QT60.0

• kW : Input – From 20kW – 60kW Continuous – From 16kW – 52kW • Voltage : 48V – QT20, QT30-Liquid-Cooled 72V – QT30-Air-Cooled, QT40 96V – QT45, QT60 • Current : NA • HP : From 25 – 80
• Motor Type : PMAC (Permanent Magnet Brushless AC) • Cooling : Air cooled – QT20, QT30-Air-Cooled, Liquid cooled – QT30-Liquid-Cooled, QT40, QT45, QT60 • IP : NA
• RPM : NA
• Torque : NA
• Dimensions : L: 673mm, W: 534mm, H (with mountings): 534mm Adjustable mountings • Weight : From 135 lbs to 200 lbs
• Price : $US 14,500 – 18,000

»» ELECTRINE website

ELECTRINE is a Korean manufacturer which has focused on maritime electrification since 2010, when the idea of electric mobility was still relatively uncommon. The company was known as LGM until 2020 and has had a consistent R&D effort for many years. They manufacture electric outboards, inboards and saildrives as well as accessories and Lithium-ion batteries using a Carbon Nano Tube heat exchanger technology. There are 7 models in the eINBOARD Line, the ZI40, ZI60, ZI90, ZI115, ZI180, ZI270 and ZI350

E-ELECTRINE e-INBOARD line 7 Models: ZI40 (shown), ZI60, ZI90, ZI115, ZI180, ZI270, ZI350

• kW : (Max): 43, 60, 110, 150, 173, 200, 250 • Operating Voltage (Vdc): 72~96, 288~384, 288~384, 288~384, 288~384, 500~738, 500~738, 500~738
• Motor Type : N/A
• RPM (Max):  8006, 7160, 10,250, 8000, 6204, 3500, 3375
• Torqu e (Max) Nm: 72, 167, 255, 251, 555, 2100, 2700
• Weight | Dimensions (kg | mm) N/A | 390 x 360 x 323, N/A | 390 x 360 x 323, 93.5 | 665 x 468 x 476, 93.5 | 665 x 468 x 475, N/A | N/A, 500 | 902 x 1200 x 733, 500 | 902 x 1200 x 733
• Country of Manufacture : Korea

EPTechnologies

»» EPTechnologies website

EPTechnologies is a complete marine propulsion provider for electric and hybrid vessels. The company specializes in custom electric and hybrid systems, but also has ‘off the shelf’ motors, including the drop-in Stern Drive unit below. The company delivers complete systems including batteries designed and built by EPTechnologies.

EPTechnologies Drop In Unit

• Voltage: 400
• Other: This motor system has been designed by EPTechnologies as a complete drop-in unit for a Mercury Sterndrive. Includes all batteries, controllers and accessories
• Country of Manufacture : Denmark
• Price : Contact EPTechnologies

EPTechnologies Electric Motor

• For boat sizes 60′-250′
• kW (Continuous) : 400 (Peak) : 700
• Torqu e (Max) Nm: 7800
• Other : Can be stacked together for 800kW or 1400kW peak

ePropulsion

Click here to view motors from ePropulsion dealers in the Plugboats Marketplace

»» ePropulsion website

ePropulsion was established in 2012 and is led by a team of technology entrepreneurs that are focused on developing uncompromising, superior products. It was the first company to launch a brushless, direct-drive electric outboard motor in the market. ePropulsion offers a portfolio of electric outboard motors – some of which offer hydrogeneration – pod drives, and inboard motors. The company is focused on products and services for all kinds of electric boats from dinghies and fishing boat to sailing boats to commercial and leisure motor vessels up to 100-feet and displacement of 200 tons.

ePropulsion I-Series T hree (3) models: I-10, I-20, I-40

• kW : 60kW to 140kW • Voltage : H-100: 540 VDC
• Motor Type : permanent magnet motor technology • Cooling : I-10 Air cooled | I-20 & I-40 Water cooled (air cooling optional) • IP : IP67
• RPM :  1500 all models
• Torque : 56 Nm | 111 Nm | 222 Nm
• Dimensions : I-10: 565 x 295 x 380 mm | I-20: 580 x 330 x 380mm | I-40 860 x 485 x 420mm • Weight : 43kg | 45kg | 75kg
• Includes : Weather & impact resistant metal housing contains integrated motor, gearbox, electronic control system, ECU, thermal management system and suspension, Smart 5” Display, ePropulsion Smart System Architecture (eSSA), Advanced driver assistance system (ADAS), Wired & tested, plug & play installation to new boat or retro-fit to existing shaft, NMEA 2000 compatible, CAN Bus communication, Fault diagnosis system & full redundancy design
• Available : Smart throttle, G102-100 battery, propeller, air-cooling, HVAC System, shaft and coupling, charger, remote data access & fleet management with IoT connectivity service
• Country of Manufacture : China
• Price : On application

ePropulsion H-Series Four (4) models available: H-60, H-85, H-100, H-140

• kW : 10kW | 20kW | 40kw • Voltage : 86~115 VDC all models
• Motor Type : permanent magnet motor technology • Cooling : Water cooled • IP : IP67 
• RPM :  H-100: 1150
• Torque : 797 Nm
• Dimensions : H-100: H 433mm  x W 433mm x D 315mm • Weight : H-100: 190kg
• Includes : Weather & anti-corrosion metal housing contains integrated motor and  gearbox, high torque density (max 2000Nm), modular design to extend range and power with extra motors, batteries and controllers, high accuracy position feedback, Boating IoT system enables remote monitoring and integrated management, Customised data for speed, power, track, mileage, safety alarm etc., NMEA 2000 compatible
• Available : Controller, remote control and display – single & dual controls, custom batteries 

»»  E-TECH website

E-TECH is a subsidiary of boatbuilder Starboats that was started in 2008 because they were dissatisfied with other electric motor offerings in the market at the time. The company has developed fixed pods, steerable pods and outboard motors that all utilize an in-water BLDC (BrushLess DC permanent magnet) pod motor in a watertight aluminum casing. The inboard motors are designed to fit any engine bed and any propeller shaft. For in-line hybrid applications, there are shaft endings on both ends of the engine to make an easy and quick in-line installation.

Click here to view motors from E-TECH dealers in the Plugboats Marketplace

E-Tech Standard Inboards 6 Models: 4WG, 7WG, 13WG, 18WG, 23WG, 35WG

• kW : From 4.3kW, 7.1, 11.9, 16.7, 21.5, 33.7 (power measured on the shaft) • Voltage : 48V, 48V, 48V (4WG, 7WG, 13WG) | 72V – 18WG | 96V – 23 WG, 144V – 35WG • HP : 6, 9.5, 16, 23, 30, 45
• Motor Type : Brushless permanent magnet BLDC • Cooling : Water cooled •  IP : 67
• RPM :  (min) From 1100, 1200, 760, 1140, 1520, 2500
• Shaft : 25mm (4WG, 7WG) or f 30mm (10WG, 15WG, 20WG), 8mm spline
• Includes : Controller, battery monitor / display, cabling, joystick (side or top mounting), integrated cooling circuit for controller with Quick-Click connections, main switch, main fuse.
• Country of Manufacture : Poland

E-Tech High Torque Inboards 4 Models: 13 Pod, 18 Pod, 23 Pod, 35 Pod

• kW : From 11.9 kW, 16.7 kW, 21.5 kW, 33.7 kW (power measured on the shaft) • Voltage : 48V, 72V, 96V, 144V • HP : ≈ 16, 23, 30, 45
• RPM :  (min) From 760, 1140, 1520, 2500
• Shaft : f 30mm, 1:10 conic

Fischer-Panda

»» Fischer-Panda website

Fischer Panda is one of the world’s best known manufacturers of marine generators but are also manufacturers of high quality electric boat motors, sometimes marketed under the ‘Whisperprop’ name. They have an “EasyBox” system that is intended to take the guesswork and complication out of purchasing electric boat motors. There are various sample configurations on their website displaying how the EasyBox system is laid out in different boats.

Fischer Panda Easybox DE-Shaft systems 5 Motors: A06-140-6-SH, A50-160-6-SH, B00-150-8-SH 10 kW, B00-150-8-SH 20 kW, B00-300-8-SH 20 kW

• kW : (continuous) 3.5kW – 20kW • Voltage : 48V • Current : • HP :
• Motor Type : PMAC • Cooling : Water
• RPM : 600 – 2500
• Torque : 28Nm – 320Nm
• Dimensions : L: 400mm – 560mm W: 270mm H: 270mm • Weight : 15kg – 96kg
• Includes : EasyBox control, GD2 control panel, throttle
• Available : Battery bank, charger, shore power connection, 230V adaptor
• Country of Manufacture : Germany

GSM Electric (formerly Greenstar Marine)

»» GSM Electric website

GreenStar Marine was founded by a group of Swedish engineers in the 1990s to develop a series of electric propulsion systems, including a patented regenerative technology. All of the company’s systems are direct drive one-gear and complete except for batteries. The website has an interactive tool that shows approximate run times for different sized boats and battery/motor configurations.

GreenStar E-Line 2 Models: E-10, E-20

• kW : Peak – 3.5kW, 5.5kW | Nominal – 2.1kW, 4.2kW • Voltage : 24V, 24V • HP : 10, 20
• Motor Type : Brushed DC • Cooling : Air cooled
• RPM :  1000, 1000
• Torque : Nominal: 20 Nm, 40Nm | Peak: 40Nm, 50Nm
• Includes : Motor mountings, control system, basic system monitor, battery charger, monitoring, speed control, shore power system, cables, propeller shaft with low friction bearings, fixed propeller
• Available : Hydrogeneration, folding propeller, extra DC/DC
• Country of Manufacture : Sweden

GreenStar P-Line 3 Models: P-10, P-20, P-35

• kW : Peak – 10kW, 10kW, 30kW | Nominal – 2.5kW, 5.5kW, 11kW • Voltage : 48V, 48V, 48V • HP : 10HP, 20HP, 35HP
• Motor Type : Brushless AC • Cooling : P-10 – Air cooled | P-20, P-35 – Water cooled • IP : 65 or higher classed components
• RPM :  1250, 1250, 1250 •
• Torque : Nominal: 20 Nm, 45Nm, 85Nm | Peak: 75Nm, 85Nm, 130 Nm
• Includes : Hydrogeneration, motor mountings, advanced control system, system monitor, battery charger, monitoring, speed control, shore power system, cables, propeller shaft with low friction bearings, fixed propeller
• Available : Folding propeller, extra DC/DC

»» Huracan website

Huracan was founded at the beginning of 2012 in Venice with the goal of building entirely electric marine motors with the highest reliability of any on the market. The Thor motor is sold in a housing that includes the controller, with throttle, displays, monitors and other accessories sold separately.

Huracan Thor NOTE : The information for Huracan is presented in a different format from other manufacturers because the Thor is the only model, which provides different power ratings at different motor speeds.

• kW : 10kW at 3000 rpm | 20kW at 4000 rpm  | 30kW at 5000 rpm | 40kW at 5500 rpm • Voltage : 220V • Current : NA • HP : NA
• Motor Type : NA • Cooling : Water cooled • IP : 69
• RPM :  3000 – 5500
• Torque : (at axles): 30Nm at 3000 rpm | 49Nm at 4000 rpm  | 56Nm at 5000 rpm | 70Nm at 5500
• Dimensions : L: 543 mm  H: 300mm W: 191mm • Weight : 40 kg
• Available :
• Country of Manufacture : Italy

»» Kräutler website

Kräutler is a long-established Austrian manufacturer of industrial electric motors. They began construction of electric boat motors in the 80’s mainly because they could not find a product that would live up to the standards of founder Oswald Kräutler. They make motors for industrial and ship use as well as recreational boats and offer a wide range of inboards for any size boat or usage. Krautler has 3 lines of electric inboard motors. The WAd and WAz lines are direct drive and run from powers of 2.0kW to 25kW (WAd) and 6kW to 37kW (WAz). The WA line is made up of motors from 30kW to 100kW, for high speed / planing boats.

Krautler WAd and WAz line WAd – 11 Models WAd 2.0AC, WAd 3.0AC, WAd 4.3AC, WAd 5.0AC, WAd 6.0AC, WAd 8AC, WAd 11.0AC, WAd 15.0AC (48V, Air), WAd 15.0AC (96V, Water), WAd 18.5AC, WAd 20.0AC WAz – 10 models WAz 6,0AC, WAz 8,0AC, WAz 11,0AC, WAz 15,0AC (Air), WAz 15,0AC (Water), Waz 18,5AC, WAz 20,0AC, WAz 25,0AC, WAz 30,0AC, WAz 37,0AC

• kW : (Output) From 2.5kW – 37kW • Voltage : 24V – 144V • Current : 104A – 292A • HP : 3.5 – 50 HP
• Motor Type : • Cooling : Air – 6,0 models to 15,0 models (WAd and Waz), Water for 18,5 models to 37,0 WAz model
• RPM :  NA
• Dimensions : • Weight :
• Includes : Controller, throttle, monitor, display, cables
• Country of Manufacture : Austria

Krautler WA High Speed line 6 Models: WA 100/30, WA 150/40, WA 350/50, WA 350/60, WA 500/80, WA 500/100

• kW : (Output) From 30kW – 100kW • Voltage : 100V – 500V • Current : NA • HP : 45 – 130 HP
• Motor Type : • Cooling : Water
• Includes : Battery, controller, throttle, monitor, display, cables

»» Lynch website

The Lynch motor was invented by Cedric Lynch in 1979 – a unique axial gap permanent magnet brushed DC motor with high efficiency. The company offers three lines – the direct drive Yellowtail, geared drive Marlin and dual motor Swordfish. Motor systems include motor in mounting frame, controller, electronics, throttle and basic battery monitor and control cables. (options available on throttles and monitors) Lynch has 3 lines of electric inboard motors: the Yellowtail, Marlin and Swordfish, although the Yellowtail ‘line’ is only one motor.

Lynch Yellowtail

• kW : Peak – 6.0kW, Continuous – 2.5kW • Voltage : 24 • Current : 120/Peak 250A • HP : 5 – 10
• Motor Type : • Axial Flux ‘Pancake’ Permanent Magnet DC • Cooling : NA • IP : NA
• RPM : 1080 • Efficiency : 88%
• Torque : 16/Peak 35Nm
• Dimensions : NA • Weight : Motor: 14 kg Control  box: 12 kg
• Includes : motor in mounting frame, controller, electronics, throttle and basic battery monitor and control cables.
• Available : options on throttles and monitors
• Country of Manufacture : UK

Lynch Marlin : Marlin 5 Single, Marlin 8 Single, Marlin 13 Single

• kW : Peak – 14kW, 14kW, 26kW • Voltage : 48V, 48V, 72VDC • Current : 140/Peak 350A, 180/Peak 350A, 200/Peak 400A • HP : 10-20, 17-25, 35-50
• RPM : 2160, 2160, 3240 • Efficiency : 90%
• Torque : 18/Peak 38Nm , 36/Peak 44Nm, 36/Peak 72/Nm
• Dimensions : NA • Weight : Motor: 21 kg • Controller: 12 kg (14kg on model 13 Single)

Lynch Swordfish : Swordfish 16V Twin, Swordfish 26V Twin

• kW : 16kW/Peak 30, 26kW/Peak 53 • Voltage : 48VDC, 72 VDC• Current : 180A/350 Peak, 200A/400 Peak • HP : 48-60, 60-75
• RPM : 2160, 3240 • Efficiency : 90%
• Torque : 72Nm/144 Peak,
• Dimensions : NA • Weight : Motor: 27 kg Controllers: 14.5 kg X 2 (29kg)
• Includes : motors in mounting frame, controller, electronics, throttle and basic battery monitor and control cables.

»» Mitek website

Mitek is an Italian company with more than 10 years of experience in electric motors. It first came to the attention of the electric boat world when it exhibited its outboards at the Venice Boat Show in June. The Mitek inboards are not sold as systems but as standalone motors to boat manufacturers or boat owners who are keen on DIY.

Mitek Inboards : 4 Models: 260038, 260054, 260061, 26115

• kW : From 17kW/Peak 29 to 85kW/Peak 115 • Voltage : 48V, 96V, 192V, 384V• Current : From 260A/650max to 200A/300max • HP : From 23-39 to 114-154
• Motor Type : NA
• RPM : From 1700 to 2200
• Torque : From 88Nm/Peak 205 to 380Nm/Peak 540
• Dimensions : L: 388mm – 588mm W: 370mm H: 370mm • Weight : 32 – 69 kg
• Includes : Standalone

Click »» here to see Molabo motors for sale in the Plugboats Market

»» Molabo website

Molabo was founded in 2016 with the goal of providing safe-to-touch low-voltage e-solutions to enable sustainable mobility worldwide. To achieve this they developed the ISCAD (Intelligent Stator Cage Drive) motor technology and have been granted 10 patents worldwide with automotive and marine OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) partners in Europe and China.

Molabo ISCAD V50

• kW : Peak: 80 | Continuous: 50 •  Voltage : 48V
• Motor Type : PM-SynRM (Permanent Magnet Synchronous Reluctance Motor) ISCAD (Intelligent Stator Cage Drive)
• Cooling : Water: 7 l/min, max. 45°C (dual circuit cooling possible)  •  IP67
• RPM : 4350 • Efficiency : 95.6 % (Motor: 97 %, Controller: 98 %)
• Dimensions : L: 265mm, Diameter: 254mm • Weight : NA
• Includes : Available as components or compete set-up including motor, reduction gear, rubber mounts & brackets, 5″ touch display, throttle top or side mount, molaCONNECT & molaLINK (IOT), communication cable set
• Available : Battery and charger packages: LFP 36kWh, 48kWh and 12kWh additions
• Price : Motor: €19,990 ($US 21,000)  •  With all components package (excluding battery): €28,400 ($US 29,900)

»» Oceanvolt website

Click »» here to Oceanvolt motors for sale in the Plugboats Market

Oceanvolt is one of the best known names in electric boat motors, especially for sailboats, and is a leader in regenerative / hydrogenerative props systems. There are standard systems available, the motors can be purchased separately, and the company can also do custom installations. Oceanvolt has both all-electric and hybrid systems, we have only included the all-electric systems here, and only the standard preconfigured systems.

Oceanvolt Inboard Systems with AX motors: 3 Models: Shaftdrive 3, Shaftdrive 5, Shaftdrive 8

• kW : (continuous) – 3.7kW, 5.3kW, 8.7kW • Voltage : 48 • Current : • HP :
• Motor Type : Synchronous permanent magnet electric • Cooling : Air
• RPM : 2400
• Dimensions : NA • Weight : 22kg, 28kg, 28kg
• Includes : Controller/battery communication kit, Hydrogeneration feature
• Available : Batteries, charger, propeller
• Country of Manufacture : Finland
• Price : $US 6,500 – 8,000

Oceanvolt Inboard Systems with AX3 motors: 2 Standard Systems: Shaftdrive 10, Shaftrdive 20 NOTE: The AX3 motors are 10kW motors that can be ‘stacked’ to create higher powered system, up to 40kW. i.e. the illustration below shows 1 X 10kW AX3 in the diagram but 2 X 10kW AX3s coupled to form a 20kW motor in the photograph .

• kW : 10kw, 20kW • Voltage : NA • Current : • HP : 20 – 60
• Motor Type : PMAC • Cooling : Liquid
• Includes : Battery, controller/battery communication kit, Hydrogeneration feature
• Price : $US 36,000 – 59,000 (includes Lithium battery pack – 13.3kWh/26.6kWh)

»» Piktronic website

Piktronik is an Austrian-Slovenian company working on the research, development and production of components for electrical vehicles (EV) and boats. Their inboards are available as standalones and also as complete systems.

Piktronik Motors : 7 Models: PMSM10, PMSM40 PMSM50 PMSM60 PMSM100 PMSM110 PMSM180

• kW : (continuous) From 10 to 180 • Voltage : From 30V to 307V • Current : From 205A to 370A • HP : From 13.6 to 245
• Motor Type : 3 – Phase  Permanent Magnet Synchronous ( PMSM ) • Cooling : Water cooled • IP :
• RPM : From 1200 to 3600
• Torque : From 80Nm – 555Nm
• Dimensions : From L: 431mm W: 220mm H: 220mm to L: 565mm W: 396 H: 396mm • Weight : From 45kg to 171kg
• Includes : See Piktronik systems below
• Country of Manufacture : Austria/Slovenia

Piktronik Systems : All of the motor power sizes above are available as complete systems. System includes:

• Display, control and battery monitoring unit 
• DC-DC converter
• Battery chargers
• Wire harness, Distribution box, battery fuses and contactors, FI-Box, Ignition switch, User guide

»» Synapseo website

Synapseo was founded by a group of passionate sailors who have a common interest in making our oceans, seas and rivers great again. They have developed the KYWAT, an adaptive in-board solution to easily replace old diesel or gasoline engines. It is available in five models with power outputs from 4kW to 20 kW. The have output shaft diameter of 25mm to 30mm and mounting brackets hat adapt to all standard engine cradles. All motors have hydrogeneration / regeneration.

Synapseo Motors : 5 Models: AE-10, AE16, AE24, AE36, AE60

• kW : 4kw, 6kW, 10kW, 16kW, 20kW • Voltage : AE-10 – AE36: 48V, AR60: 72C • HP : 10, 16, 24, 26, 60
• Dimensions (mm): • AE-10 – AE24: W: 400 L:630 H: 440, AE 36 and AE60: W: 448 L:742 H: 512
• Includes : Control panel, digital throttle, power cables, coupling, four silencing blocks.
• Country of Manufacture : France

»» TEMA website

TEMA was founded in 1989 by Branimir Ruzojcic, Dr.Sc, who is still GM of the company. Its goal was to merge academic and scientific researches and engineering practical resources for offering sophisticated industrial automation products to the market. Today TEMA offers advanced motors/generators using Permanent Magnet technology ranging from 10KW to 1500KW and offers complete electric propulsion systems for all-electric, serial hybrids and parallel hybrid boats, from small leisure yachts to large commercial boats.

TEMA Motors : 5 Models: SPM132-1, SPM132-12, SPM132-2, SPM132-22, SPM132-3

• kW : 10kW – 60kW • Voltage : 48 – 450Vdc • Current : • HP :
• Motor Type : PMAC • Cooling : Air – either natural or forced air/fan
• RPM : Nominal – 3600
• Torque : (Nominal): 70 – 205Nm
• Dimensions : • From L:275mm, H: 260mm, W: 260mm to L: 552mm, H: 260mm, W: 260mm Weight : 70 – 148kg
• Includes : motor controller, marine throttle, information display, Plug and Play easy wiring
• Country of Manufacture : Croatia

»» Thoosa USA website

The Thoosa design has been in production in Denmark since 1998, originally by ASMO Marine, which became Clean eMarine in 2012. They manufacture the AC Triton motor and the DC Thoosa line, which includes four models with power ratings from 5kW to 12kW. All are geared motors. Motor and controller are sold together, with mounting brackets. Throttles and monitors are also available from the company.

Thoosa DC Motors : 4 Models: Thoosa 5000, Thoosa 7000HT, Thoosa 9000, Thoosa 12000

• kW : (continuous) – 5kW, 7kW, 9kW, 12kW •  Voltage : Thoosa 12000 is 72V, others are 48V •  Current : (Peak) 300A – 400A •  HP : 10 – 50
• Motor Type : Axial Flux ‘Pancake’ Permanent Magnet DC •  Cooling : Air cooled
• RPM : 1080 – 1270
• Torque : (Peak) 59.5Nm – 73.3Nm
• Dimensions : NA •  Weight : (System) 37kg – 47.5kg
• Includes : Motor, controller
• Available : Throttle, battery monitor
• Country of Manufacture : Denmark / US Assembly for US models

»» Torqeedo website

Torqeedo is the world’s leading manufacturer of electric outboards. The company was founded in 2004 by Dr Christoph Ballin and Dr Friedrich Böbel when they decided they could build a better electric motor than the one on the boat Dr. Ballin had just purchased. The inboards are sold as a complete system, including batteries, and each is designed for different usage: the 1400 (RPM) models for displacement sailing with heavy boats, the 1800 (RPM) models for for planing with fast boats and the 100kW 900 for large sailing yachts and heavy displacement vessels.

Torqeedo Deep Blue Inboard Line – 25i and 50i models 4 Models: Deep Blue DB25i 1400, Deep Blue DB50i 1400, Deep Blue DB25i 1800 , Deep Blue DB50i 1800

• kW : 25i models – 27.6kW/33 Peak, 50i models – 55kW66 Peak • Voltage : 360V • Current : • HP : 25i models = 40HP, 50i models = 80 HP
• Motor Type : Permanent Magnet Synchronous (PMSM) • Cooling : Water cooled • IP :
• RPM : Model number1400 and 1800 refer to RPMs
• Torque : <280Nm – 343Nm
• Dimensions : L: 680mm W: 512mm H: 376mm • Shaft sizes : 30, 35, 40mm | 11/8,11/4” • Weight : 80kg
• Includes : Complete integrated system, including on-board touchscreen computer, batteries, shafts and propeller.

Torqeedo Deep 100kW 900

• kW : 100kW continuous • Voltage : 360V • Current : • HP : 135
• Motor Type : Permanent Magnet Synchronous (PMSM) • Cooling : Water cooled
• RPM : 900 (max)
• Torque : 1060Nm
• Dimensions : NA • Shaft sizes : 30, 35, 40mm | 11/8,11/4” • Weight : 450kg (w/o battery, including electronics)

»» WaterWorld website

WaterWorld is a joint venture undertaken by two companies, De Stille Boot, a distributor specializing in electric boating and Water World Electronics, a Dutch specialist in low voltage electronics. WWE develops and produces its own printed circuit boards and complete controllers for various markets such as the building and car industry. They have joined together to “offer boat owners and -users the ultimate joy of a quiet, calm and carefree boat ride.” The company offers four direct drive electric inboard systems, with the motor and controller in one housing with adjustable engine supports as well as monitors and other accessories.

WaterWorld Inboards : 3 Models: 4.0 i , 7.5 i , 10.0 i , 15.0 i

• kW : (continuous) – 4kW, 7.5kW, 10kW, 15kW • Voltage : 48V • Current : 92V (max), 172A, 230A • HP :
• Motor Type : Asynchronous • Cooling : Air cooled • IP :
• RPM : 1450 (max), 1350, 1450
• Torque : 27Nm, 53Nm, 66Nm
• Dimensions : (Motor and controller in frame) 4.0i: L- 558mm x W-225mm x H-221mm | 7.5i and 10.0i – L-681mm x W-290mm x H-271mm • Weight : (Motor and controller in frame) 4.0i: 39kg, 7.5i and 10.0i: 76kg
• Includes : Motor, controller, thrust bearing, relay, digital colour touch screen display, throttle
• Price : $US 3,675 – 5,500 (15.0 i tba)

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HYBRID AND ELECTRIC MARINE POWER AND PROPULSION SYSTEMS

Zero Emission

No environmental restrictions

No high voltage risk

Remote System Interface

State of the art Lithium Ion battery technology

Safe installation and operation

Instant power output for maneuverability

Zero to full torque in an instant

No waiting for engine rev to settle

No pre-start warning beep

Best quality components available

Patented Technology

Hydro power regeneration

Superior thrust efficiency and energy capture

Remote diagnostics

Low maintenance

System Solutions for a Range of Marine Activity

THE FACTS ABOUT ELECTRIC POWER, BATTERIES AND PROPULSION

Today's electric motor technology has already moved from

the open road to the open ocean.

Instant High Torque

Electric motors are in constant ‘stand by’ mode; you can engage the control lever at any time for instant forward or reverse propulsion.

Electric motors achieve instant torque with Electromotive Force while internal combustion engines need to build RPMs gradually by increasing piston firing frequency.

Hydro Generation

At sailing speeds over 6 knots Oceanvolt systems are able to generate significant power for recharging the battery bank by activating at the touch of a button.

Power regeneration increases exponentially with each additional knot of speed.

Lithium Ion batteries are superior to other battery storage technology; highest storage capacity, high effective current delivery, high charge capacity resiliency and wide temperature range performance. In today's digital age, where everything is just a click away, 1xbet mobile takes a significant chunk of the online casino services sector. Starting as an online casino service in 2007, 1xBet expanded its services in 2014 to include sports betting. Fast forward to 2018, and they marked their entry into the Indian market. Their app and website, designed in a calming blue and white hue, are not just a treat for the eyes but are also super intuitive. With a support interface that covers 50 languages, including Hindi, the platform ensures that language is no barrier to placing your bet.

Oceanvolt highly skilled technical team ensures proper installation and system-optimization.  Only the highest quality Li-Ion batteries are used - to ensure performance and safety.

For those interested in a hybrid solution, generators are a highly efficient way to extend range while at sea.

DC generators have the advantage of rapid recharging capability.

AC generators are, generally, smaller and even portable which means that the generator can be aboard only in situations where longer motoring might be required.

Battery recharging is accomplished with shore connection, hydro generation (an integrated part of all Oceanvolt systems) and/or solar panels.

In Hybrid solutions , a generator (either AC or DC) can be used to recharge batteries / extend motoring range.

Integrated components

It is essential that all system components are properly selected and installed.

Our team of highly skilled technicians ensure that all components are compatible and that system management software is optimized.

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What You Need to Know Before Buying an Electric Sailing Yacht or Sailboat

It’s no secret that we’re approaching, or have maybe even passed the moment in history where most buyers are considering buying an electric vehicle. The awkward early adopter phase is long gone, doubters few and far between, and every car manufacturer has at least some EV options, while others focus exclusively on electric and are experiencing massive growth. Mass adoption is here, the prices are falling, and infrastructure and legislature are hurrying to catch up.

All of this has left many people wondering why not bring sailing boats into the electric world? Sailing was never about motoring, never about engine speed – it is about that connection to nature, the serenity of the sea and the challenge. So why not get rid of the “dirty and loud” diesel engine, and simply exchange it for “clean and quiet” electric propulsion? Motor out of the marina or bay in silence, then use the sun, wind and waves to continue your journey.

Well – it turns out that like all good things in life, it’s not that simple, but it can be completely viable if approached correctly, and Elan and Oceanvolt have partnered-up to offer just that.

EARLY ADOPTER PHASE

Unlike the automobile industry, electric-powered yachting is still in the early adopter phase. That is why picking experienced manufacturers is crucial. Elan Yachts, for instance, had built various highly successful projects with Oceanvolt in the past and were part of the pioneering few boatbuilders to take on the challenge. The partnership flourished and matured so that Elan is now working exclusively with Oceanvolt and has extended the offer to their whole range of yachts. But what does being an early adopter mean for the buyer? Mostly that the technology is here, but the price is high. For a well-rounded, high-quality and reliable system, you can expect to pay 20-30% more than a comparable diesel-powered sailing yacht. And since a large part of that cost is for the batteries, do not expect that to change very soon as the demand for Lithium-ion batteries is only increasing.

FOR SERIOUS SAILORS

However, let’s assume that the price is not a problem. You want to be among the first few with a zero-emissions yacht – no noise, no exhaust, no smell and no environmental restrictions. You want to sail without the use of fossil fuels. You want the famous instant power output benefits of electricity in emergency situations, no engine rev settling, no pre-start waiting and low maintenance costs. You want to use the wind and the sun to re-charge. All of these are actual benefits of electric yacht propulsion, but what are the downsides? For committed sailors, there are not many. The operating range of high-end electric propulsion systems like the one from Oceanvolt is from 25 to 70 miles at 5 knots (and more, depending on the battery pack options and power generation), which is more than enough to get you in and out of marinas and bays and still have plenty left over to get you out of a bind. The rest, you sail. And if the yacht is fast, the winds are fair and you achieve 5 knots or more, Oceanvolt’s hydrogeneration kicks in and generates power for recharging the battery bank. Hydrogeneration creates drag of only 0.1 knot at a boat speed of 7.0 knots – so it is barely noticeable. If you can go even faster, the power generation increases exponentially (see GRAPH 1).

GRAPH 1: Elan E4 Power generation prediction

(Source: Oceanvolt)

LIVING ABOARD

Buying an electric-powered yacht is still far from an off-the-shelf experience. You need a trusted team of specialists who will guide you through the process and make sure they create a custom solution according to your needs and a good partnership between the shipyard and the electric propulsion provider is crucial. Why is this so different from a car? A yacht is an independent element on the sea and, unlike a car, it will need to provide its owner with much more than just propulsion. It is imperative therefore to consider everything, from the way the yacht is built to the equipment on board. Since you will spend most of your time sailing, you need a yacht that performs well and is easy to sail. A good, reliable sail plan and rig, like the one on Elan yachts, will give you enough options to substitute the practicality of a diesel engine. Elan’s VAIL technology keeps the weight down, its short-handed sailing approach and comfort-centric design will keep you comfortable even when sailing for longer periods, and the high-end electronics are designed to keep consumption low. That is crucial because you will need to bear in mind cooking, refrigeration, water and cabin heating and entertainment, as well as the availability of ports/marinas with good electrical infrastructure. Of course, there are fossil fuel solutions for all these challenges, and Elan’s and Oceanvolt’s partnership offers a hybrid option with a 48V DC generator, which is very practical, if on the pricier side. Purists, however, will want to go full electric. And for them, more renewable power generation options like photovoltaics, a wind generator or a humbler approach to on-board living will be crucial, especially in colder climates. Bear in mind that experienced shipyards like Elan Yachts will be able to provide a complete solution, including solar panel procurement and installation.

POWER OPTIONS

How powerful are electric motors on sailboats? Well, Oceanvolt offers two different propulsion systems. The Finland-based company has developed a 6, 8, 10 and 15kW SD saildrive, as well as a special 10 and 15kW ServoProp with even better hydrogeneration, thanks to its patented and DAME-awarded software-controlled propeller blades, which change pitch to generate as much power as possible. Depending on the yacht, the entry-level SD saildrive enables 5 knots of cruising speed and a top speed of 7 knots on the 30 ft Elan E3. Bear in mind that power consumption and speed is inverse in relation to power generation – as you go faster, you consume exponentially more power (see GRAPH 2) The good part is that the motor and the saildrive weigh only 42.5 kg, which offsets some of the battery weight. In addition, all of the motors are all closed-circuit liquid-cooled, so there is no annoying spluttering.

GRAPH 2 : Elan E3 RANGE PREDICTION

Source: (Oceanvolt)

Want to go electric?

Get in touch with Elan Yachts, and request the configuration of your ideal electric-powered sailboat. Elan is the only yacht manufacturer offering complete electric propulsion solution for the whole range of yachts. Contact our experts, build an energy balance sheet for your needs and your new Elan, taking into account the type of sailing, the environment, living habits and other possible criteria, to create the optimal setup.

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Electric motors for sailboats | Our recommendations

Looking for an electric drive for your sailboat, for which sailboat is an electric motor worthwhile.

An electric motor is really perfect for almost all sailboats. No maintenance, no annoying warm-up of the engine, easy to turn on and drive with the push of a button. Especially when it comes to maneuvering in the harbor, the battery doesn't have to be dimensioned so large.

There are numerous aspects in which a combustion engine performs worse. You can find more advantages in our blog.

Worth it for all sailboats with conventional propulsion.

Ideal application for sailboats.

The electric motor on sailboats is usually only used in the harbor and in calm weather, so for short distances. Ideally, you can sail with a lot of wind and don't need a motor at all. Since sailboats are very streamlined, less power is needed than for motorboats. We assume a minimum of 1-1.5 kW per ton of boat weight for inland waters and a minimum of 1.5-2 kW for the coast.

Which type of engine fits my sailboat?

We will go through it step by step and give our current recommendations. Sailboats have different types of engines:

- Outboard engines

- Inboard engines

- Pod motors

- Rotatable pod motors

- Saildrives

If a motor has already been installed, it is best to use the same type of motor. This is usually the easiest option. Of course, it is also possible to convert to a different type of motor. We will be happy to advise you in detail and have specialized partners at hand for you.

Recommended outboard motors for sailboats (price-performance ratio)

Pod motors for sailboats

From our point of view, pod motors are really ideal for small to medium-sized sailboats. The motors take up little space and are completely underwater. The only disadvantage is the higher resistance in the water. However, many providers now offer the option of generating electricity while sailing. Alternatively, there is also a folding propeller or rotating blade propeller for less resistance underwater.

Recommended pod motors for sailboats (price-performance)

Saildrives for sailboats

Saildrives are already a good option for sailboats with combustion engines. If the existing foundation can be reused, a saildrive is definitely worthwhile. With a saildrive, the motor is located inside the boat and therefore causes less resistance in the water. A saildrive is particularly suitable for faster sailors and larger sailboats. We usually recommend the saildrives from Bellmarin or WaterWorld.

Since there is a much larger selection for pod motors, this is usually our recommendation for smaller sailboats. The advantages of the pod motor: less space in the boat, less noise and no maintenance of the gearbox, direct cooling of the motor in the water.

Inboard motors for sailboats

Inboard motors are ideal if a shaft system already exists. Then only the new electric motor needs to be flanged onto the shaft. The propeller can often remain, depending on pitch and speed. In general, an electric inboard motor saves weight and space!

In our opinion, WaterWorld offers very good value for money with their 4 to 20 kW motors. Alternatively, Aquamot and E-Tech offer very good solutions. Depending on the manufacturer, there are a few differences between the motors, especially in terms of cooling, compatibility, and displays.

Rotatable pod motors for sailboats (complete package)

Rotatable pod motors are particularly suitable for sailboats that do not have a rudder. The pod motor can usually be rotated at least 180° and thus steer the boat in the desired direction. In addition, the motors can be operated forwards and backwards, so a rotatable pod motor offers good maneuverability.

Recommended rotating pod motors for sailboats (price-performance)

What should I consider when choosing an electric motor for my sailboat?

Especially if you are currently looking for a new motor, you should at least consider an electric motor. If you are buying a new motor now, it should be designed to last for the next 10 years or more. This is also because the value of your boat is related to the propulsion system. Especially due to the many driving bans, this can pay off for you early on.

The following is important for electric sailboats:

Design of electric motor and battery (not too much or too little power/capacity)

Consider space and weight (Lithium or AGM, Lithium is 3 times lighter and takes up less space)

Suitable charging options (shore power at the port/dock, recuperation, solar)

Compatibility of components (especially for electric motor and battery, particularly for remaining capacity)

Special features (recuperation, battery information via Bluetooth to the mobile phone)

Sailboats with electric motors are cheaper in the long run.

Why are electric boats much cheaper to maintain.

The biggest cost driver are the operating costs. Instead of several liters of gasoline, only a few kWh of electricity are needed. Recently, gasoline prices have been increasing again. In addition, there are also annual maintenance costs and the repair of wear parts. (oil change, filters, transmission, etc.)

Installation of the electric motor in your sailboat

Mounting an outboard motor is uncomplicated at the motor mirror, which is located at the stern of the boat. The attachment is done by means of clamping screws or bolting. Depending on the weight of the motor, this is easy, especially for motors under 11 kW (15 hp) and can usually be done by a layman.

The installation of other types of motors (pod motor, inboard, saildrive) is more complex than with an outboard motor and should generally be carried out by an experienced boat builder. This often requires the boat to be lifted out of the water, which may require a crane.

We have a nationwide network of boat builders and shipyards for installation. We will be happy to refer you to a contact person in your region. The colleagues will then take care of the installation of the system. We will be happy to handle the coordination for you. Please contact us in good time before the start of the season so that we can reserve a space for you!

When is an electric motor not worth it?

However, there are also applications where an electric motor is currently not optimal. For example, for world travels on the high seas. Simply because the batteries are very large, heavy and expensive for a long range. It is technically possible, but not always economical compared to an internal combustion engine. Here we usually recommend a hybrid system.

In exceptional cases, we recommend a hybrid motor from E-Tech or Fischer Panda. Even though we prefer all-electric drives.

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The Promises and Pitfalls of an All-Electric Yacht

• By Tim Murphy
• Updated: November 8, 2021

This past October, I saw one of the most interesting exhibits in more than 500 new cruising sailboats I’ve reviewed over two decades. It was the Arcona 435Z, built in Sweden and introduced by Graham Balch of Green Yachts in San Francisco. Balch describes his business as “a new brokerage dedicated to the electric revolution on the water,” and it was the “Z” in the boat’s name, which stands for “zero emissions,” that made this boat so interesting. This was the first electric propulsion system—not hybrid but all-electric —I’d ever seen on a cruising sailboat.

Electric propulsion isn’t new. Since 1879, electric motors have propelled boats; a fleet of some four-dozen electric launches transported visitors around the 1893 Colombian Exposition in Chicago. But cruising sailboats are not launches, and the open sea is not a protected canal. When we’re using cruising boats as they’re meant to be used, they seldom end their day plugged into a shore-power outlet. Cruising boats comprise many devices —stove, refrigerator, freezer, windlass, winches, autopilot, radar, lights—whose power typically comes from a tank of fossil fuel. And today’s cruising sailors are accustomed to using diesel auxiliary power to motor through lulls or punch into headwinds and seas.

Starting about 15 years ago, we saw a wave of diesel-electric and hybrid propulsion systems on production and custom cruising boats ( see “Perpetuated Motion,” CW , March 2005 ). Both of those systems ultimately start with an onboard internal-combustion engine. A diesel-electric propulsion system relies on a running genset to directly power the electric motor that turns the propeller. A hybrid system relies on batteries to power the electric motor, plus an internal-combustion genset to recharge the batteries. One of the promises of a hybrid system is the ability to regenerate electrical power. Regeneration means using boatspeed under sail to turn the propeller, whose spinning shaft sends electrons from the electric motor back through an electronic controller to recharge the batteries. In such a system, the boat’s propeller is both an electrical load (when running under power) and a charging source (when sailing in regeneration mode).

The Arcona 435Z was different from both of these systems: It incorporates no onboard fossil-fuel engine at all. Instead, it has a bank of lithium batteries, several solar panels, and a proprietary propulsion leg that looks like a saildrive. “This boat,” Balch said, “has the very first production unit in the world of Oceanvolt’s newest electric propulsion system, called the ServoProp.”

For our sea trial, Balch was joined by Derek Rupe, CEO of Oceanvolt USA. “If you can sail the boat and you have some solar, you can go anywhere in the world, and you can make all your power underway while you go,” Rupe said. When we spoke in October 2020, he touted three high-profile sailors who were using the Oceanvolt electric propulsion system: Alex Thomson, for his Hugo Boss Open 60 Vendée Globe program; Jimmy Cornell, for his Elcano 500 expedition; and Riley Whitelum and Elayna Carausu, who had been teasing their new boat for months on their popular Sailing La Vagabonde YouTube channel.

The efficiency of Oceanvolt’s ServoProp and the regeneration from it is the promised game-changer in each of these boats. The ServoProp is a leg with a ­feathering propeller that can be set for optimal pitch in three modes: forward, reverse and regeneration.

“You don’t need fuel,” Rupe said. “You don’t need to dock; you can go anywhere you want to go and always have the power for living and propulsion.”

That’s the promise. But are there also pitfalls?

Innovation and Risk

Marine electric propulsion is an emerging technology. Compared with the mature and settled technology of diesel engines and lead-acid batteries, electric-propulsion systems—with their electronic controllers and lithium batteries—are in a stage of development best described as adolescent. Every sailor has his or her own tolerance for technical innovation. For the promise of fewer ­seconds per mile, grand-prix-racing sailors willingly trade a high risk of expensive damage to the sails, rig or the boat’s structure itself; cruising sailors, by contrast, tend to favor yearslong reliability in their equipment as they seek miles per day.

Folks who identify as early adopters take special joy in the first-wave discoveries of a new technology; if they’re clear-eyed about supporting an ongoing experiment, they see themselves as partners with the developers, accepting failures as opportunities for learning. Sailors motivated primarily by changing the trajectory of climate change might be especially willing to modify their behavior to limit their own output of greenhouse gases. Investing in any emerging technology asks you to start with a clear assessment of your own risk tolerance. We’ll return to this theme with one or two real-life examples.

The American Boat and Yacht Council, founded in 1954, sets recommended standards for systems installed on recreational boats. For decades, ABYC has published standards related to installations of diesel and gasoline engines, as well as electrical systems based around lead-acid batteries. By contrast, it was only three years ago that ABYC came out with its first electric-propulsion standard (revised July 2021). And only last year it published its first technical-information report on lithium batteries (a technical-information report is an early step toward a future standard). The takeaway is that if you need help servicing your diesel engine or electrical system built around lead-acid batteries, you can pull into any reasonable-size port and find competent technicians to help you. With electric propulsion and lithium batteries, that pool of skilled talent is significantly scarcer.

To say that a technology is mature simply means that we’ve learned to live with it, warts and all, but that it holds few remaining surprises. Certainly, diesel-propulsion and lead-acid-battery technologies each leave plenty of room for improvement. When a charge of fuel ignites in the combustion ­chamber of a diesel engine, some three-quarters of the energy is lost in heat and the mechanical inefficiencies of converting reciprocating motion to rotation. Lead-acid batteries become damaged if we routinely discharge more than half of their capacity. During charging, they’re slow to take the electrons we could deliver.

Lithium batteries are comparatively full of promise. Their power density is far greater than that of lead-acid batteries, meaning they’re much lighter for a given capacity. They’re capable of being deeply discharged, which means you can use far more of the bank’s capacity, not merely the first half. And they accept a charge much more quickly; compare that to several hours a day running an engine to keep the beers iced down.

But the pitfalls? Let’s start with ABYC TE-13, Lithium Ion Batteries. Some of its language is bracing. “Lithium ion batteries are unlike lead-acid batteries in two important respects,” the report says. “1) The electrolyte within most lithium ion batteries is flammable. 2) Under certain fault conditions, lithium ion batteries can enter a condition known as thermal runaway, which results in rapid internal heating. Once initiated, it is a self-perpetuating and exothermic reaction that can be difficult to halt.”

Thermal runaway? Difficult to halt? Self-perpetuating?

“Typically, the best approach is to remove heat as fast as possible, which is most effectively done by flooding the battery with water,” TE-13 continues, “although this may have serious consequences for the boat’s electrical systems, machinery, buoyancy, etc.”

If you were following the news in January 2013, you might remember the ­story of Japan Airlines Flight 008. Shortly after landing at Boston’s Logan Airport, a mechanic opened the aft ­electronic equipment bay of the Boeing 787-8 to find smoke and flames billowing from the auxiliary-power unit. The fire extinguisher he used didn’t put out the flames. Eventually Boston firefighters put out the fire with Halotron, but when removing the still-hissing batteries from the plane, one of the ­firefighters was burned through his ­professional protective gear.

Samsung Galaxy cellphones, MacBook Pro laptops, powered skateboards—in the past decade, these and other devices have been recalled after their lithium batteries burned up. In that period, several high-end custom boats were declared a total loss following failures from lithium batteries. In March 2021, a 78-foot Norwegian hybrid-powered tour boat, built in 2019 with a 790 kW capacity battery bank, experienced thermal runaway that kept firefighters on watch for several days after the crew safely abandoned the ship.

Yes, experts are learning a lot about how to mitigate the risks around lithium batteries. But we’re still on the learning curve.

ABYC’s TE-13 “System Design” section starts, “All lithium-ion battery ­systems should have a battery ­management system (BMS) installed to prevent damage to the battery and provide for battery shutoff if potentially dangerous conditions exist.” It defines a bank’s “safe operating envelope” according to such parameters as high- and low-voltage limits, charging and discharging temperature limits, and charging and ­discharging current limits.

Graham Balch takes these safety recommendations a step further: “To our knowledge, the BMS has to monitor at the cell level. With most batteries, the BMS monitors at the module level.” The difference? “Let’s say you have 24 cells inside the battery module, and three of them stop working. Well, the other 21 have to work harder to compensate for those three. And that’s where thermal events occur.”

Balch followed the story of the Norwegian tour boat this past spring. He believes that the battery installation in that case didn’t meet waterproofing standards: “The hypothesis is that due to water intrusion, there was reverse polarity in one or more of the cells, which is worse than cells simply not working. It means that they’re actively working against the other cells. But if the BMS is monitoring only at the module level, you wouldn’t know it.”

On the Green Yachts website, Graham lists five battery manufacturers whose BMS regimes monitor at the cell level. “If I were sailing on an electric boat, whether it be commercial or recreational, I would feel comfortable with having batteries from these five companies and no other,” he said.

The broader takeaway for today’s sailors is that lithium batteries bring their own sets of problems and solutions, which are different from those of conventional propulsion and power-supply technologies. A reasonably skilled sailor could be expected to change fuel filters or bleed a diesel engine if it shuts down in rough conditions. With lithium-ion batteries aboard, an operator needs to understand the causes and remedies of thermal runaway, and be ready to respond if the BMS shuts down the boat’s power.

Real-World Electric Cruising Boats

When we met Oceanvolt’s Derek Rupe a year ago, he and his wife had taken their all-electric boat to the Bahamas and back the previous season. Before that, he’d been installing electric-propulsion packages for six years on new Alerion 41s and other refit projects. “My real passion is on the technical side of things—installations, really getting that right. That’s half the picture. The technology is there, but it needs to be installed correctly.”

When talking to Rupe, I immediately encountered my first learning curve. I posed questions about the Oceanvolt system in amps and amp-hours; he responded in watts and kilowatt-hours. This was yet another example of the different mindset sailors of electric boats need to hold. Why? Because most cruising boats have just one or two electrical systems: DC and AC. The AC system might operate at 110 or 220 volts; the DC side might operate at 12 or 24 volts. On your own boat, that voltage is a given. From there we tend to think in terms of amps needed to power a load, and amp-hours of capacity in our battery banks. Going back to basics, the power formula tells us that power (watts) equals electrical potential (volts) times current (amps). If your boat’s electrical system is 12 volts and you know that your windlass is rated at 400 watts, it follows that the windlass is rated to draw 33 amps.

But an all-electric boat might comprise several systems at different voltages. A single battery bank might supply cabin lights at 12 volts DC; winches and windlasses at 24 volts DC; the propulsion motor at 48 volts DC; and an induction stove, microwave and television at 110 volts AC. A DC-to-DC power converter steps the voltage up or down, and an inverter changes DC to AC. Instead of translating through all those systems, the Oceanvolt monitor (and Derek Rupe) simply reports in watts coming in or going out of the bank.

“We keep all our thoughts in watts,” Rupe said. “Watts count in the AC induction. They count in the DC-to-DC converter. They count the solar in. They count the hydrogeneration in. And the ­power-management systems tracks it that way for shore-power in.

“On a boat like this, maybe I have 500 watts coming in the solar panels,” he continued. “So then I can think: ‘Well, my fridge is using 90 watts. My boat has an electric stove. When I cook a big meal, I can see that for every hour we cook, we lose about 10 to 12 minutes of our cruising range.’”

During his Bahamas cruising season, Rupe observed that on days that they were sailing, the combination of solar panels and hydroregeneration supplied all the power he and his wife needed. “When we weren’t sailing,” he said, “we found that we were losing 8 percent each day, in the difference from what the sun gave us to what we were using for the fridge, lights, charging our laptops, and all that stuff.”

Rupe’s solution? “Twice in Eleuthera and once outside Major’s, we went out and sailed laps for a couple of hours because the batteries were below 30 percent of capacity. It was good sailing, and the wind was coming over the shore, so we didn’t have any sea state. We did a couple of hot laps on nice beam reaches, and generated about 700 watts an hour.”

Of the three sailors Rupe touted in October 2020—Alex Thomson, Jimmy Cornell and the Sailing La Vagabonde couple—only Cornell can report back on his all-electric experiences with Oceanvolt. Alex Thomson ended his circumnavigation abruptly last November, just 20 days after the Vendée Globe start, when Hugo Boss collided with an object in the South Atlantic. And at press time in early fall 2021, Riley and Elayna had just recently announced the build of their new Rapido trimaran; keep an eye on their YouTube channel for more about their experiences with the Oceanvolt propulsion system.

As for Cornell—circumnavigator, World Cruising Routes author, creator of the transoceanic rally, and veteran of some 200,000 ocean miles—he suspended his planned Elcano 500 round-the-world expedition solely because of the Oceanvolt system in his new Outremer catamaran. His Aventura Zero Logs on the Cornell Sailing website, particularly the Electric Shock article posted on December 2, 2020, are essential reading for any sailor interested in sailing an electric boat. “Sailing around the world on an electric boat with zero emissions along the route of the first circumnavigation was such a tempting opportunity to do something meaningful and in tune with our concern for protecting the environment that my family agreed I should do it,” Cornell wrote. “What this passage has shown was that in spite of all our efforts to save energy, we were unable to regenerate sufficient electricity to cover consumption and top up the batteries.”

Cornell’s experience in that article is raw, and his tone in that moment bitterly disappointed. We recommend it as essential reading—not as a final rejection of the electric-boat concept or of Oceanvolt’s system, or even as an endorsement of Cornell’s own decision that the system didn’t work. I suspect that I may have arrived at the same conclusion. Yet given the same boat in the same conditions, one imagines that a new breed of sailor—a Graham Balch or a Derek Rupe—may have responded differently to the constraints imposed by an all-electric boat, as nearly every cruising sailor today habitually responds to the inconvenient constraints of diesel engines and lead-acid batteries.

“If you bring electric winches, electric heads and an induction stove, and then sail into a high-pressure system, you’ll set yourself up for failure,” Balch said. “You have to balance your power inputs and your power outputs.

“Sailing an electric boat is a return to the tradition of sailing that the crutch of a diesel engine has gotten us away from,” he added. “Magellan’s fleet got all the way around the world, and they didn’t have a diesel engine.”

Tim Murphy is a Cruising World editor-at-large and ­longtime Boat of the Year judge.

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Electric Motor

Please note:.

The following information is in regards to our initial set up. It has been almost 5 years since we wrote this. Many upgrades and improvements have been made since then. All can bee seen on our Youtube Channel. Updated wiring diagrams, specs and photos will be coming soon. In the meantime, much of the below information is still accurate and I’m sure you will find it useful. And the answer to our most asked question is YES, we still love our electric motor!

WHY ELECTRIC?

An electric motor . . .

Is not for everyone..

Lets first take a look back in time when “production” boats became popular in the late 60s early 70s, the intent was to make an inexpensive boat the average family could afford and handle with limited sailing experience and knowledge. As a result, one of their requirements was the ability to move the boat in difficult situations. This is where the “auxiliary engine” was coined. But, for many, it has become the primary means of maneuvering their boat. Yes, there are places in the world you can’t sail, like the Panama Canal. But, there are often alternatives where you CAN sail.

“We have yet to use our motor for more than 30 minutes at a time.”

As of today, November 2016, we have sailed over 3000 miles up the east coast of the United States and through the Bahamas to Haiti. We have yet to use our motor for more than 30 minutes at a time. The majority of use comes when we drop the mainsail and back down on our anchor to set it. Most of our sailing has been offshore. But, we have also sailed on the ICW and recently sailed 25 miles up the Cape Fear River to Wilmington, NC. We have sailed under many bridges, some on set schedules, others open on demand. In all cases, we sailed under. We have found that having a solid plan and the patience to wait for the right weather and tide is the key.After all, we own a sailboat. They are inherently slow. We are not in a rush. We love the idea of being self-sufficient. But, for those who sail with schedules, are short on time, lack the patience to sit out a wind hole, feel the need to power their boat to hull speed, enjoy maintaining a diesel engine, or are just set in their ways, then an electric motor probably isn’t the right choice.

Want to learn even MORE…?

Of course we would love for you to stick around and read this page all the way to the bottom, but, we have tucked in many distractions (i.e. links) along the way. Don’t feel bad if you digress, we know you’ll be back. If you want to just jump feet first into all things “electric sailboat” Electric Seas is a good place to start. It’s a great resources community and features several other electric sailboat stories for you to enjoy.

ANOTHER POTENTIALLY GREAT RESOURCES…. 

“My Electric Boats” by: Charles Mathys. 

Although this book is currently on our Amazon wish list, we have not read it yet. But, it is the only one we could find on the subject and, for only $15, it looks promising. If you read it before we do, let us know what you think!

You don’t need a diesel . . .  

For ocean passages..

Many people have written in and commented that an electric motor is only good for day sailors who weren’t going very far each day, and that you need a reliable diesel engine for long distance cruising. But we feel like the opposite is true. Since we don’t have a dock to tie up to and charge our batteries each night, we rely on sailing to recharge our system. The longer we sail and the more sun we get, the more power we make. Because we don’t have a 9-5 to return to at the end of a fun weekend out on the boat, we have no schedules requiring that we make it back to the dock on time, no matter what the wind is doing. So, we feel that an electric motor, depending on your sailing style, can be adapted to any boat. But, you have to be willing to work around the one major draw back, range.

“We have no schedules requiring that we make it back to the dock on time.”

Range is the one major downside to an electric motor. But, with a sailboat, and some adequate sailing skills, we have found we really don’t need a motor as much as we originally thought. For those who do have schedules, the possibility of a hybrid system may work well. It encompasses all the benefits of an electric system with the added back up of a diesel or gas genset rated to supply adequate power for extended motoring. Some companies even offer an electric motor, like this one, that can be installed in parallel to an existing diesel motor. So the majority of motoring is done with the traditional diesel, however for short periods of time, like moving around the marina, the electric drive can be used instead. This also incorporates the added benefit of capturing power from the spinning prop while sailing, often referred to as “regeneration” or “regen”.

Our conversion to electric . . .  

Started with our motor..

We found the motor on ebay.com, knew it worked and that was about it. We chose this specific motor for three reasons:

• It was rated at 4.8kW at 36v which was adequate for our needs.
• It was overbuilt for an industrial application. This meant it had robust parts and easy to source replacement brushes.
• The motor cost us $125! Since this entire “Electro-Beke” project is just one big experiment, we tried at every corner to keep our expenses minimal.

Our motor weighs 110 pounds, which is quite a bit more than its brushless DC siblings like those used in the existing electric boat market. Although it is probably a little less efficient, its components are much more robust and durable. It is heavy duty, low cost and provides adequate power, with the added bonus of being simple and easy to find parts for. The only parts we will likely ever have to replace are the 8 carbon brushes that transfer electricity to the motor armature (the part that spins on the inside). Depending on use, they can last for many years without wearing out, and for about $80 we can buy a complete replacement set to have onboard. That’s it, virtually maintenance free, with only 1 moving part, the motor itself is relatively simple. On our boat, simplicity is often the defining factor for equipment selection.

This motor happens to be wired with separately excited field and armature (or SEPEX). It just means that we have a lot more control over the motors power output. We can tune it down to have more low end torque, or up to gain high end speed. This will allow us to customize the power output we need for our specific boat. A few other types of motors out there include, Series , and Permanent Magnet that only have one set of coils. Each type has its own benefits and drawbacks. But we won’t get into any of that here. If you would like to know even more about DC motors, click HERE .

we didn’t buy new . . .

Because we received quotes from three different companies:.

• Here’s our quote from OceanVolt for their AX8 motor.
• Here’s our quote from Annapolis Hybrid Marine for a Thoosa 7000HT motor. Read their prediction for power consumption and battery drain.
• Click here to see some data and predictions from Electric Yacht for their Quite Torque 20 motor.

Our entire set up . . .

Cost us just $1,400..

As you can see by the above quotes, The motors and supplementary wiring are all in the $10,000 price range. That doesn’t include a battery bank. Our motor and wiring cost us just under $500. Many of our components were refurbished, used or salvaged from boats being demolished, including some of the wiring. The battery bank and additional tools, like wire crimpers and cutters were another $500. So, for about $1000, we installed our Electro-Beke system. Our charging system ended up costing us only $400 thanks to a few amazing companies who joined our Uma Angels Family and supplied the major components. Find out more about our charging system in the “Charging” section below.

That Breaks down to:

$500 _ for the motor, controller and supplementary wiring. $500 _ for the batteries. $400 _ for the solar charger, panels and bimini modifications.

Power required . . .

To push our boat and yours..

Our motor has an 8hp rating. For those accustomed to gas or diesel engines, this may not seem like much power. But, the rating systems used for gas engines and electric motors are so different that comparing the numbers is almost meaningless. It comes down to the way the two types of motors use their energy and torque curves, which is quite different. According to the research we have done, a 1 hp gas (or diesel) engine can push 500 pounds of displacement to hull speed in calm conditions. Now, the sources disagree a little here, but as a rule of thumb a 1hp electric motor can push about 3 to 3.5 times more displacement than its petrol equivalent. So a 1hp electric motor, drawing 750W, can push about 1500 pounds of displacement.

“Hull speed’ and ‘redundant power’ weren’t something we worried about in our system.”

Our boat displaces 13,500 pounds. so, 13,500 / 1500 = 9hp electric motor., now 1hp (of electric) draws about 750 watts. so, 9hp x 750w = 6.75kw electric motor..

At 48V, our motor should give us 6.3kW, which is slightly less than what we would need to push our boat to hull speed in calm conditions. But that is something we never intend to do. It takes a lot of power to push a displacement boat to hull speed. So the slower you go, the greater your range will be. However, it takes a long time to cover that distance. So, there is a sweet spot right around 4 kts (see graph to the right) where you make good headway, while being conservative with your power consumption. Of course, these are merely suggestions. Real world conditions are rarely perfect and adding 30% redundancy is often recommended by many motor companies. 

We only use our motor for close quarter maneuvering where sailing isn’t an option, like a marina, or tight anchorage, so “hull speed” and “redundant power” weren’t something we worried about when designing our system. We often sail on and off the hook and choose places to anchor with few boats around. 

Power | Speed | Range

Hover over any point to see exact data. For example, it is estimated that at 2.7 kts our motor will draw 600 watts (blue), giving us a range of 65 nautical miles (grey). This graph is based on a 14kW Lithium battery bank and a high end motor/controller combo.

Here are some great companies . . .

That install, sell, or can help answer your questions..

Thunderstruck-EV  and EV-West  are staffed by great people who would love to hear from you and help answer any questions you may have. They both offer DIY kits that will suit the needs of any boat. They can also help source adequate battery banks, help with solar and even find local experts to assist with installations as well. 

If you’re looking for a more “plug and play” set up, check out the companies below. They represent the best in the industry and will gladly customize a set up for your specific needs and provide a detailed quote.

Elco Motors

elcomotoryachts.com

[email protected]

1 (877) 411-3526

Oceanvolt SEA

oceanvolt.com

[email protected]

+358 10 325 5281

clean-e-marine.com

[email protected]

+1 (410) 353-4348

Electric Yacht

electricyachtsocal.com

[email protected]

1 (855) 339-2248

Electroprop

electroprop.com

[email protected]

+1 (805) 455-8444

WANT TO LEARN EVEN MORE…?

Here is another great article about “How much electric power do you really need? !!! !!!

INSTALLATION

Getting down to the Nuts and Bolts

For the complete parts list and wiring diagram, scroll down..

There is a lot to talk about here. Hopefully you can follow along and not fall asleep. Like…I …….am…….right….nowwwww(yawn)www…  SLAP !!! Ok! I’m awake. Where was I. Right, wiring.

With no degrees or formal training in electrical engineering (and no, they didn’t teach us this stuff in architecture school), we had a lot of learning to do. Here we were, with a big heavy electric motor we knew nothing about, a boat it could theoretically push and the dream it would all work in the end. Now all we had to do was figure out how to get the motor to spin the prop. Sounded simple enough…right?

“…all we had to do was figure out how to get the motor to spin the prop.”

This step, of course took the longest. Since all our components were used, refurbished or salvaged, we had to test everything. We then started wiring the system in pieces in the salon and testing those. We then modified, adjusted, replaced and fabricated new systems and tested those. In all, it took us 9 months from motor purchase, to moving boat. Granted, not all of that time was devoted to installing the motor. We did have a few other projects on the side.

There are four main sections to our electric motor installation:

• The motor controller
• The batteries
• The wires that connect it all together

The motor we talked about previously. In all honesty, the main concern when sourcing a motor, is that it has enough power (watts) to push your boat to the speed you would like. The second concern is that it will work with the voltage of the components you choose. 12/24/36/48/72/96V are all common. The general rule, is that the higher the voltage, the fewer amps need to be pushed through the system to attain the same wattage. With this in mind, we have found that 72/96V systems tend to be more expensive than similar 48V set ups and, pushing a boat requires much less power that pushing a car. So, we’re not worried about running hundreds of amps through the system. Although rated at 36V, we run our motor at 48V so we can utilize available golf cart components for the rest of our systems, which are also inexpensive and abundantly available. For our boat, we designed the system to handle 150 amps. This would give us a theoretical output of just over 7kW (48V x 150A = 7.2 kW). If you were paying attention earlier, you might notice that our motor is rated for only 4.8kW at 36V. That is a continuous rating however. It can handle more, but cannot sustain it for long periods of time without some external cooling system. But, because there are times when we need all the power we can get, like stopping or backing down on the anchor, we decided to run our system with a higher amperage rating to accommodate that need.

CHECK OUT THESE PHOTOS OF OUR FINAL INSTALLATION.

(As usual, click to enlarge)

The Motor Controller

This little box is the heart of an electrical conversion. Similar to the head of an ICE (internal combustion engine), it controls the speed at which the electric motor spins. It does this by breaking up the power stream coming in from the batteries into tiny little pulses. This is called Pulse Width Modulation or PWM. There are many different types of controllers out there. In general, if you found a motor with standard voltage range, there is a controller on the market that will work for it. Some are more complex than others. Some offer built in regen capabilities, while other require computer programing and digital displays. 

Our controller is a Curtis 1209B. It is designed to run a series motor, but since we got it for such a good deal, we made it work with ours by only using it to power the armature. See the wiring diagram below for more details. This controller is not fancy. It is weather proof, simple and robust. If you haven’t figured it out by now, we love simple and robust. 

The Batteries

We will explain more below in the “BATTERIES” section. But for now, as long as you can create a battery bank that can be wired to produce the required voltage for the rest of your system, then you’ll be fine. Also keep in mind how much space and weight the bank will require. Ours fit perfectly where our old fuel tank used to be and helped offset all the weight we lost by removing the tank and the old diesel motor. For typical lead acid banks,  at 36V you will need 3 -12v or 6-6V batteries. A 48V bank will require 4 or 8 respectively and so on. Although you can purchase massive deep cycle batteries with equally large aH ratings, we don’t see the value of them since it is very difficult to maneuver them into tight spaces on a boat. Ideally, if you can afford them, a lithium bank would be the best for an electric motor conversion. We’ll talk more about them in the “WHAT”S NEXT” section below. 

All our wires our tinned copper or “Marine Grade”, although, we despise that term since it often just means “more expensive.” The majority of which, we scrapped off of boats that were being demolished at the boatyard. What we couldn’t find for free, we purchased from a local discount marine store that sold surplus marine components. This allowed us to spend very little for all the wiring. 

For the most part it is all oversized, but when it comes to wire, the bigger the better. There are many useful online calculators that can help give an idea of what size wire will be appropriate for a given application. If your wiring is undersized, the system will lose some efficiency. For the most part this is of no concern. However, in extreme circumstances it will heat the wire to the point of melting things. For example, we undersized the cables connecting the motor controller to the armature, after a 15min full power test at the dock, we melted off the heat shrink tubing on the terminal lugs. It was quickly replaced by something much more beefy and hasn’t been a problem since. 

O yeah, One More Thing . . .

The motor mount. .

Oops, almost forgot. Somehow we had to keep the motor inline with the transmission and securely mounted to the boat.  We built and re-built 6 different mounting brackets prior to the one we have now. Each being fabricated after hours of sketches and models were developed. We didn’t have to modify the motor any or the transmission itself. However, we did modify the original transmission adapter plate that was used to attach it to the back of our Westerbeke.  We then securely attached the transmission to the hull of our boat. This allowed the motor to float in front of it, leaving the transmission to absorb any thrust from the prop. 

We fabricated the brackets out of steal since it is easy to work with and weld. Once we settled on a final design, we epoxied and painted the brackets and motor with engine enamel. We’re quite pleased with the final outcome. All the exposed metal is protected from corrosion and it is very securely mounted to the old engine pan.

In tandem to our bracket iterations, were several attempts to connect the motor to the transmission. Our early versions were poorly aligned causing horrible vibrations that in turn produced noise. Noise was something we were trying to avoid by going electric. The final design paired two identical sprockets, connected inline by a #50 double roller chain. This seems to work quite well. It allows for small misalignments and produces the least amount of noise. There are of course many other options out there, and someday we may experiment with them. But, for now, this set up works for us. 

Take a look through our Electro-Beke playlist on Youtube  for video of the installation process. 

WIRING DIAGRAM

Including complete parts list..

Here it is. The schematic you’ve all been requesting. You may notice that it is drawn for a direct drive system, where the motor is used to electronically shift from forward to reverse. We have since installed our motor in front of our old transmission and no longer need the Fwd/Rev circuit. However, since the majority of set ups out there use the motor to achieve Fwd/Rev, we wanted to show our diagram depicting a similar set up. If you end up with a Series or PM motor, you should be able to modify this diagram by excluding the 12V bank to motor connections. However, many of the components, like the contactors, require a 12V supply to operate their solenoids. So you will still need a 12V accessory bank. This is often the house bank of a boat, since many smaller boats run 12V house banks anyway.

Below are the components we used, why we chose them, where to buy them and pictures of them installed in our boat. If you didn’t figure it out already, their letters correspond to the diagram above.

(A) – 10A FUSE 

Buy one HERE .

This is a simple automotive fuse held in an inline fuse holder. It protects the ignition circuit wiring from drawing too much amperage in the event of a short.

(B) – Key Switch

Buy one here . .

The key switch is mainly for security. It can be replaced by a simple on/off switch, but taking the key out will slow down someone trying to leave with your boat, without your permission.

(C) – FWD/REV Switch

This switch is only needed if you are planning a direct drive system. We no longer have need for it, but also have yet to rewire our system after we installed the transmission. It is a basic rocker switch with an on/off/on rocker and 6 pins on the back. This allows both positive and negative wires to be switched. We also wired ours so that it will shut off the contactors if switched accidentally while the throttle was engaged. That way it wouldn’t cause any damage to the motor.

(D) – Throttle

The throttle tells the motor controller how much power to send the motor. We chose this one because it allowed us to keep our existing throttle lever and cable mounted on the steering pedestal. It also has a micro switch that we use to close the secondary contactor (N) on the 48V side and the Fwd/Rev contactor (E) on the 12V side when the throttle is pushed forward. This ensures no voltage is going through the system until the throttle is actually engaged.

(E) – FWD/REV Contactor

This, again, is not needed if you, like us, install the motor with a transmission that handles Fwd/Rev. However, if you are planning a direct drive set up, and the controller you chose doesn’t have a Fwd/Rev circuit, then this is a necessary evil. The one we used, we scrapped off an dead windlass. It works great for the 12V circuit and are easy to find.

(F) – Main Battery Switch

Our boat came with this switch installed already. We simply rewired it slightly to accommodate our systems. For now we only use the “Battery 1” and “off” settings. However, if we eventually install a DC-DC converter to bring our 48V bank down to 12V we could wire it to the “battery 2” position as a back up battery bank.

(G) – Positive Buss Bar

Pretty basic here. A buss bar is used to connect multiple leads to the same source. This one is beefy to handle high amperage on the positive side of the 12V circuit.

(H) – Negative Buss Bar

Same as the Positive buss bar above. However this one is tied into the 48V circuit. 

(J & M) – Shunt

These are pretty standard. They are required to hook up an amp meter and measure how much amperage is running through your system. Often an amp meter will come with its own shunt. They sample the current so that not all 100+ amps are running through a meter. That would be very dangerous. Just make sure the shunt and meter are rated for the same mV, usually 50mV or 100mV.

(K & U) – Main Fuse

These fuses protect the wiring in the system. The closer to the battery bank the better. The fuse on the 48V side is rated for 200A and the 12V fuse is rated for 80A. These are rated for amperage only and can usually take a variety of voltages. Both fuses and holders are identical. They just have different ratings.

(L) – Primary Contactor 

This contactor is wired to the main key switch. It is a bit redundant but shuts off any power from the controller, motor and gauges. It acts more like a battery shut off.

(N) – Secondary Contactor

This contactor supplies the motor controller with the power it needs to run the motor. It is also the one that is bypassed by (T) the pre-charge resistor. Contactors are just big remote activated switches. Like breakers, they activate very fast to eliminate high amperage arching.

(P) – Motor Controller 

The motor controller we chose works for our application, but there are many out there to choose from. Do your own research here before deciding on what motor you will use. We happened to get a sweet deal on ours so we made it work with our motor. Our system would be less complicated if we used a controller designed for a SEPEX motor. The Curtis 1209B that we have is designed for a Series motor, but we make it work.

(Q) – DC Motor (SEPEX)

Sorry, you’ll have to find this one on your own.

Since another motor like ours has yet to show up again for sale online, we can’t really recommend the same one. However, the basic idea is finding a motor with the appropriate wattage to push your boat. Refer to our “Power Requirements” section to get an idea of what that might be. Then just make sure it will produce the desired power at a voltage that you would like to work with. We recommend 48V for most applications for reasons described previously.

(R) –  Amp Meter

These attach to the shunt (J & M) and show you how many amps are running through the system. Depending on where it is placed it can either read the amps being drawn from the battery bank or the amps going to the motor. We decided to read the amps being drawn from our batteries.

(S) – Volt Meter

This meter does not require a shunt. As long as the negative lead makes its way back to the negative buss bar, the positive lead can be attached at any point along the circuit. We chose again to read the battery bank voltage with ours. However, it can also be place on the motor to read the voltage there instead.

(T) – Pre-charge Resistor 

They look like THIS . 

There is no specific item to show you here. Each controller and each set up is different. But, I can tell you that the pre-charge resistor is very important. It by-passes the main contactors and supplies the motor controller with the power it needs to pre-charge, so its ready when the main contactor is switched on and all that amperage comes rushing in.

Make sure you check out SV Bianka’s page for another detailed blog about his electric motor installation.For another great article about all the other stuff that goes into a motor installation,

you might want to read “Balance of System” . The article is for an electric motorcycle set up, but the basics are similar enough.

One thing we learned very early on was that . . .

Volts (v) x amps (a) = watts (w) or v x a = w.

At first we thought (please don’t laugh we were total newbies)  that if we took 4 – 12V batteries with 125aH, and wired them in series, we would get a 48V bank with 500aH capacity. Obviously we forgot everything we learned in high school algebra. We soon resolved our mistake and learned that this formula is at the heart of everything electrical. As you can see, Watts are the thing you need to pay attention to. Remember high school physics? W=Work. Many appliances in your house, often things that produce heat, are rated in Watts, but marine stuff tends to rate things in Amps. Well, for our sake Watts are king. No matter what boat you have, it requires a certain amount of work (Watts) to push it through the water at any given speed. So, your job is to charge, store and supply to the motor a similar amount of wattage in order for your boat to move. The more watts you can store, the longer you can push your boat.

“The more watts you can store, the longer you can push your boat.”

As mentioned before, our motor is a SEPEX motor. This meant that the field and armature needed 2 separate voltages in order for the motor to spin. The way we solved this problem was with two separate battery banks. The field is powered by the house bank at 12V. This bank consists of two deep cycle batteries wired in parallel giving us about 250Ah at 12V. So far, it has held up great. It powers everything onboard including the inverter and laptops. We use about 30Ah on a slow day at anchor, and around 70Ah when sailing or when we’re both using our laptops all day at anchor. The nice part, is that even on a cloudy day, our 480W solar bank can replenish that before dinnertime. But we’ll talk more about that in the next section, “CHARGING” below. 

The motor bank consists of 4 – 12V deep cycle batteries wired in series giving us about 125Ah @ 48V. This may not seem like much, but in the last month of sailing, we have logged over 1000 miles, including sailing 25 miles up the Cape Fear River, and have never depleted the motor bank more than 35%. That works out to drawing only 44Ah used. We’ll talk more about range and testing below in the “TESTING” section. 

There are many types of lead acid batteries on the market. Don’t get too invested in brand. Most of the batteries on the market today are made by the same two companies. Trojan seems to be the brand of choice for many. We found batteries for sale locally and for $100 each, including delivery, we couldn’t pass them up. We also knew that the flooded lead acid bank we installed is only temporary. Like we’ve said before, this whole “Electro-Beke” thing is really one big experiment. We have plans to install a LiFePO4 bank soon enough. But we’ll tell you all about that in the “WHAT’S NEXT” section below.

There are many inefficiencies in electrical systems, like heat. However, don’t worry about them too much. If you budget 30% power redundancy into your system, it will more than cover any losses from heat, or mechanical friction and so on.

Check out www.batterystuff.com . They have useful calculators for battery banks and solar, along with great information on different types of batteries and what they are used for.

Our Solar System . . .

Also doesn’t include pluto..

We have 480 watts of solar. Broken down into 2 – 240W panels at 24v wired in series to give us a nominal voltage of 48V. Did you get all that? Great! Steven, from Solar EV Systems , gave us a great deal on them, landing him a spot in our Uma Angels Family . There are a several types of solar panels, but as far as we can tell, any modern panel is efficient and well made. None are much more efficient that others, it’s more about the size of your mounting space, and the size of your wallet. The ones we have are made by Trina, They are not expensive, look well made and perform exactly as promised.PV (Photovoltaic, aka solar panel) modules have three different voltage ratings that are handy to understand:

• The nominal voltage of a panel could also be called the “conversational voltage.” When we talk about the voltage of the panels and the other components of the system, we’ll most often use the nominal voltage. Nominal voltage actually refers to the voltage of the battery that the module is best suited to charge; the term is a “leftover” from the days when solar panels were used only to charge batteries. The actual voltage output of the panel changes as lighting and temperature conditions change, so there’s never one specific voltage at which the panel operates. Nominal voltage allows us, at a glance, to make sure the panel is compatible with a given system without having to look at the exact voltage. Our panels have a nominal voltage of 24V. We wired them in series which gives us 48V. It reality, they put out about 75V on a sunny day. But our charge controller allows us to charge a battery bank from 48V all the way down to 12V with the same solar panel set up. We’ll talk more about our charge controller later.
• The second voltage rating is the maximum power voltage (Vmp). This is the highest voltage the panel can produce while connected to a system and operating at peak efficiency. As mentioned above, the max our panels will produce is around 75V, even though we talk about them as a 48V panel system.
• The third voltage is open circuit voltage (Voc). This is the maximum voltage that the panel can produce when not connected to an electrical circuit or system. Voc can be measured with a meter directly contacting the panel’s terminals or the ends of its built-in cables.

Panels also have two different current ratings: current at maximum power (Imp) and short circuit current (Isc), both listed in Amps. The maximum power current is similar to Vmp: it’s the maximum current available when the panel is operating at peak efficiency in a circuit. Ours can produce 35Amps at max efficiency, They consistently produce 30A on a sunny day and we’ve seen as much as 32A. Similar to Voc, the short circuit current is the current measurement your meter would show when in contact with the positive and negative terminals of the panel while not connected to a system or load.All these voltage ratings and current ratings are often found on the back of a panel. Use them to estimate how much power they will be able to produce.

Two rules of thumb:

• 1kW or solar will produce 4kWh/day
• Rated Watts / 3 will get you approximate Ah/d @ 12V.

So, according to this, our 480W panels should give us 160aH on an average day, which we’ve found to be quit accurate. Although, we’ve only ever needed more that 100Ah of charge on one occasion. So usually, our batteries are charged back up before lunch, and we spend the rest of the day on “float” charge.

Types of Panels

Monocrystalline.

These are single silicon cells grown into larger crystals, then cross-section cut into small wafers to form individual cells that are later joined together to form a solar panel. This cell type has high conversion efficiency which means it takes up less space on deck. These cells are generally not shadow protected and are often more expensive per watt.

Multicrystalline (Polycrystalline)

These cells are also single silicon cells constructed by utilizing multiple amounts of smaller crystals to form a cell. This cell type has very high conversion efficiency but is also not shadow protected. Although, you should really be installing any panel so it doesn’t get blocked by shadows throughout the day. It will drastically increase the output if you install them in a proper location.

Amorphous silicon

These are the most inexpensive to manufacture. They are produced by depositing an active silicon material on various substrates like stainless steel sheet. The conversion efficiency is not as good as the single crystal type, but Uni-Solar panels are this type of panel and are shadow protected. Shadow protected means that a panel continues to charge when part of the cells are in a shadow, like a stay, which is a great advantage on a sailboat.

Our Charge Controller . . .

Is at the heart of it all..

The next, and possibly most important component in our charging circuit, is our Midnite Solar KID charge controller. This thing is amazing. Midnite also joined our Uma Angels Family when we asked them to send us a controller and they agreed. We spent a lot of time researching solar charge controllers and learning all about PWM vs MPPT. Bottom line is, if you can afford it, get the MPPT controller. We chose the Kid because it’s just the most efficient at collecting power from your panels. It is also easy to program and understand. We currently run it at 12V and just rewire our motor bank to 12V when we need to charge it. However, we will soon be adding a smaller, simple 12V charger to the “load” circuit of the Kid. This will allow the Kid to be permanently charging the 48V house bank. But, when it is full, switch over to the “load” circuit and charge our house bank through the smaller controller. It may all sound too complicated now, but once it’s installed and working, we’ll be sure to share everything with you in more detail. 

“We have never gone 24hrs without fully charged batteries.”

On a boat, where space is at a premium, you need all the efficiency you can get. Right now, I’m sitting on the boat, it is overcast and raining outside, it’s noon and we’re getting around 100W of power in from our panels (about 8-9A @ 12V). Our house bank will be charged back up by dinnertime, same as the last few days, and we haven’t seen the sun all week. When it is sunny, our house bank is usually charged back up before we wake up in the morning. No we don’t wake up THAT early, usually around 10am, but seriously, if it’s sunny in the morning, we put 30+aH into our batteries before 10am. The charge controller runs silently, however it makes a tiny click when it switches from “resting” to “BulkMPPT”. Since on a boat, we’re attuned to every tiny sound, we usually here it click on and off a few times before the sun even rises. Mind you, it’s only putting in 0.5aH then, but still, the sun isn’t even over the horizon yet and we’re already charging our batteries. 

Check out “Step 26” when we install our solar panels and charge controller. 

The rule of thumb we used when designing our system is that 1 – 100W panel can charge a single deep cycle battery from 50% discharged in a single sunny day. So we have 6 batteries, so ideally we would have 600W of solar. Now, that just wasn’t practical for us, so we settled for 480W and it keeps up just fine. However, if we discharged our motor and house bank down 80% we would need about two sunny days to get them both topped back up fully. Or, about 4 rainy days. For us, this isn’t an issue since we typically use the motor for very short periods of time right before anchoring or when setting off for a multi day passage. So, by the time we need them again, their both fully charged and ready to go. If not, we’ll just hang out and drink a beer. So far it’s never been an issue or even come close to it. We have never gone 24hrs without fully charged batteries.

Many have suggested we have a small generator on board as a back up, just incase there is no sun for many days and our batteries are dead. So far, we have gone a full week without sun and our solar has kept up just fine. Although, we may design a system with the ability to be hooked up to a genset for extending motoring, like say the Panama Canal, so that if we ever needed to, we could just set a generator on deck for a few days and then get rid of it as soon as we’re done. But, for now the whole point was to get away from petrol dependance. 

So far, solar is our only means of power production. We do have plans to get working regeneration from the prop while sailing. The possibility is definitely there, and we have tested for voltage while sailing. But as of today, we haven’t hooked up a charge controller to it. Mainly because we just don’t need it…yet. Our power requirements are so minimal and we use the motor so little, that we haven’t bothered to hook it up yet. But, it is on our short to-do list. So stay tuned for future updates. 

HERE is a link to a great forum talking about solar systems, battery banks and how to balance them. 

How far can you motor? 

Maybe the most asked question we receive..

It’s a valid question for sure, and one that many have asked us. But, we have yet to find out. We are still early on in our testing phase of the experiment. We’ve used the motor many times but rarely for more than 10-15 min and never more than 30. It is also hard to find “ideal conditions” to test in. There either isn’t enough space, time or light. Or the tide and wind aren’t in our favor. Sounds like excuses we know, but it’s the truth. 

“We are in no hurry to go anywhere,  ever.” 

From what we have done, we can tell you this. Our max speed has been right at 4kts. but it was against a slight current, maybe 1kt max. So, that would mean our theoretical top speed is closer to 5kts. 

Here again, we haven’t actually found out. Mostly because without a tow boat right beside us, it would be dangerous to run out of power in the middle of a channel or bay where there are “calm conditions”. But, we’ve motored for 2 nautical miles at 3kts (with a 1kt tide in our favor) and it drained our batteries down to 70%. So, that would mean that in “ideal conditions” we could motor at 2kts for 6 nautical miles. Doesn’t sound like much, we know. But, with a favorable tide and even a slight favorable wind, we can extend that tremendously. We also wait for the wind and tide to be favorable and then just sail to where ever we need to go.

With limited area to mount solar panels and without a genset, we knew if we used more power that we could generate, we would always have dead batteries. So, from the beginning, we focused more on how much power we could consistently generate, and base our system off of that. To us, the meant using less, not necessarily making more. Our solar has kept up great so far, but our power needs have also been minimal. We have autopilot and a chart plotter that are always on when sailing. We also use our laptops constantly and run a small inverter for tools and small cooking appliances like blenders. We have all LED lights too. We don’t have a refrigerator yet or windlass. But they are on the short list. We also have yet to capture any power from the prop while sailing. So there is still room to capture more power if we need it. 

As we continue to sail further and upgrade and modify our system, we will also continue to update you on how it all works here. So keep a look out for updates on our Facebook page and in future videos.  

WHAT’S NEXT

We may have a spinning Motor . . .

But the fun has just begun..

Well, our motor works. It pushes our boat reliably. The Electro-Beke experiment is a success, at least in our eyes. Now the real fun begins. We’ve proven to ourselves that we can sail further that we thought and use the motor less than we originally planned. So, what’s next?

“We have a few more project on the list of upgrades and modifications.”

We have a few more projects on the list of upgrades and modifications. The first thing on the list is to rewire our system and remove the redundant components left over from the direct drive phase. After that, installing some better gauges and monitoring systems would be really nice. There is a “fuel gauge ” we would like to install for the motor bank and house bank. It is simple and relatively smart. It will give us an accurate state of charge in a quick glance. 

Next on the list will be installing a charge controller or developing a similar system to allow us to capture power from the spinning prop while under sail. Technically our motor is capable of it, and early tests have augmented this theory. We are currently working with a few companies to figure out what the best system will be. 

We also need to install a larger heat sink for our motor controller. The one that came with it is designed for air movement across its fins and is therefore undersized for our needs. However, we may be upgrading to a true SEPEX motor controller before long, so it will handle regeneration and would require a different heat sink anyway. 

The big ticket item on the list is to install a large LiFePO4 battery bank. We have our eyes out for a salvaged Nissan Leaf or Chevy Volt that still has its battery bank intact. We’ve seen them for sale before and would love to get our hands on one. LiFePO4s are much more stable than other types of Lithium Ion batteries. But, we’ll talk about that if and when we actually get our hands on some. 

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Electric Motors

• Thread starter dlochner
• Start date Nov 30, 2023
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Very cool. I hope to have an electric sailboat someday.  

That used to be a sailing vlog, didn't it?  

Joe said: That used to be a sailing vlog, didn't it? Click to expand

Will Gilmore

rgranger said: Very cool. I hope to have an electric sailboat someday. Click to expand

Scott T-Bird

I, like a few others here, am not a fan .. I do acknowledge that there is a market where electric drive makes sense but I am not part of that market. The primary problem is the limited range and that is mostly a function of the comparatively large amount of power needed to drive a boat.. folks think that because it works in cars, it should work in boats; the problem is that once a car accelerates to speed, it takes a relatively small amount of power to keep it moving compared to a boat hull in water at a usable speed. The market is starting to show that in a few ways; airplanes are similar to boats in the way they use power and there will be small planes that will be used as trainers on very short flights.. it is starting to be obvious that electrics now cannot replace a dually pickup pulling a trailer .. I've thought that electric power will work as we use gasoline today when fuel cells (hydrogen, or better propane) are generating the electricity and the fuel can be replenished quickly as gasoline or diesel is today..  

Scott T-Bird said: I thought it was funny while Kika was smirking as the guy from EP Tech was telling her that regeneration is over-hyped because nobody really needs it while it is rare that they are actually doing any long-distance sailing. I wonder if he knew how much sailing Kika and Dan have actually done in the past decade with electric auxiliary. Clearly, he hadn't been following their experiences! Click to expand

Electric Shock - Cornell Sailing Publications

Johann said: I think his opinion is probably based on experiences like Jimmy Cornell’s electric circumnavigation failure. He had two of the Ocean Volts on his catamaran and the regen performance was pretty bad. It seems to me once you leave the flat water of the test environment, the rapid changes in speed, pitch, and yaw make efficient hydro generation a tough problem to solve. Especially when you are trying to use the same propeller for propulsion. Maybe the servo prop needs individually controlled blades so each one can optimize its own angle of attack. Similar to fly-by-wire control systems. Electric Shock - Cornell Sailing Publications My decision to abandon the Elcano Challenge has taken by surprise many of those who have been following my voyage, and I want to apologise to all of you for the disappointment this may ...Read more cornellsailing.com Click to expand

Scott T-Bird said: That's a good reference to describe the deficiencies. However, there are significant differences between Cornell's experience and Uma's experience. Most glaringly, Cornell describes a great deal more luxury to support compared to the spartan conditions under which Uma lived for almost an entire decade utilizing electric auxiliary. Cornell didn't really describe in this article how much motoring they did (perhaps he did in a more detailed writing). Uma basically defined their experience by stating that they simply have to travel exclusively by sail and traveling by motor was simply not feasible. It sounds like Cornell described autopilot as an electical consumption, whereas Uma doesn't consume electicity for autopiloting. Basically, Uma's traveling consumption was probably still far less than Cornell's "spartan" consumption. Keep in mind that the great majority of Uma's travels occurred before they even had regeneration or a servoprop. Their consumption behavior was baked in long before they had regeneration. They obtained regeneration while in the Arctic and their ability to charge the batteries was proven out during long sailing passages, even with low angles from solar (but, I suppose with longer summertime hours). And most distinctly, Cornell seemed to intend to make an uninterrupted circumnavigation, off the grid the entire way. Dan and Kika quite deliberately have always said that their destinations include frequent stops where marinas are plentiful for shore power re-charging. Even in the Norwegian Arctic, they noted that marinas with shore power were numerous enough to support their travels. Cornell indicated that passages across the Atlantic are certainly feasible to be supported by regeneration. Uma's experience proved that just as readily, even without regeneration. Click to expand

danstanford

I have one in my J/88 and I love it for my use case.  

danstanford said: I have one in my J/88 and I love it for my use case. Click to expand

tfox2069 said: Electric makes perfect sense under those circumstances. And it's about an even trade if I sell the gas outboard (once I fix the latest issue) and buy a used Torqueedo (already done). Click to expand

Scott T-Bird said: I've been battling this decision for quite some time ... the problem I have with the Torqueedo or E Propulsion is the cost. They are more than twice the price of a gas-powered outboard. But the trade-offs are very clear and I can see the benefit to electric. But what about electric trolling motors? They are sooooo much cheaper than the Torqueedo of E Propulsion, yet nobody ever mentions a trolling motor as an option. What gives? Why not buy a Minn Kota instead of the high-priced options? Click to expand

@pgandw , I could easily justify the cost of a Spirit for auxiliary use on a sailboat, if an outboard was needed. My hesitancy is the expense to power a dinghy. I do know that I hesitate to put my dinghy to very much use simply because it is not powered, except by some flimsy oars! If I want to put it to some greater use, I will have to put a motor on it!  

Scott T-Bird said: @pgandw , I could easily justify the cost of a Spirit for auxiliary use on a sailboat, if an outboard was needed. My hesitancy is the expense to power a dinghy. I do know that I hesitate to put my dinghy to very much use simply because it is not powered, except by some flimsy oars! If I want to put it to some greater use, I will have to put a motor on it! Click to expand

Mark Maulden

tfox2069 said: Scott T-Bird said: I've been battling this decision for quite some time ... the problem I have with the Torqueedo or E Propulsion is the cost. They are more than twice the price of a gas-powered outboard. But the trade-offs are very clear and I can see the benefit to electric. But what about electric trolling motors? They are sooooo much cheaper than the Torqueedo of E Propulsion, yet nobody ever mentions a trolling motor as an option. What gives? Why not buy a Minn Kota instead of the high-priced options? Click to expand

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• Hybrids & EVs
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Maserati’s Electric Speedboat–Finished in Maine–Is Just a Rapid Badge-Delivery System

What do you build if you’re Maserati ? It’s hard to go toe-to-toe with Ferrari and Lamborghini at the top of the market. But building a BMW competitor threatens to water down your image. Maserati’s company brass has struggled finding the perfect niche for this hallowed luxury marque. But they might have finally be on to something with electric speedboats. Hear me out.

You could call Maserati one of the world’s last “unblemished” exotic car brands. Its name conjures up the image of cruising around Italy’s Lake Como in a classic grand tourer as much as some celebrity in a modern supercar with a gaudy wrap. And in the world of supercars, that’s rare.

What would be the ultimate way for such a brand to demonstrate the raw speed and power an electric future will unlock–in a classy way? Obviously launch a flagship electric wooden speedboat. And being able to slap its trident logo on the deck doesn’t hurt.

Maserati’s new Tridente motorboat will cost Bugatti prices ($2.68 million a hull). But for that price, you get a carbon fiber craft with twin electric motors capable of 600 horsepower hooked up to a 252 kWh lithium-ion battery pack. It can go 43 miles on a single charge or hit a top speed of 46 mph. Obviously, for an EV these numbers would be lackluster. But for a day boat, they should be sufficient.

It also has two bucket seats behind the windshield and a forward-facing couch that should fit six to eight more in the cabin. At the back of the boat are a few more seats, but they face backward. Really only suitable for a quick run from one lakeside bar to another. Up front it has a small cabin with a bed, bathroom, and sink where you can escape the sun and keep ice for your negronis.

This boat is far from a true Maserati product. It was built by Hodgdon Yachts in Maine around a powertrain from Vita Power. So it’s about as “Maserati” as a bottle of Carbon Champagne that costs $450 because it has a “Bugatti” logo, or a Walmart trucker hat that costs $45 because it has a “Ferrari” logo.

That is unfortunate. Maserati’s parent company, Stellantis, makes electric drive units. The new Alfa Romeo Quadrafoglio will make 1,000 horsepower with three of those. So this boat could at least have 600 horsepower of electric “Maserati” engines to demonstrate the automaker’s engineering prowess.

A fancy electric Italian yacht could be the ultimate way to demonstrate Maserati’s EV technology. And it would be the perfect fit for the automaker. Unfortunately, this is not that boat.

You can see the Maserati Tridente reviewed in the video below:

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Henry Cesari

Henry Cesari joined MotorBiscuit in 2021 and brings his deep interest in vintage cars, trucks, and motorcycles to the site. Having restored his first classic car at just 16 years old, Henry has wrenched on everything from overland campers to Japanese motorcycles and even pre-war Bugattis. Henry is also an avid attendee at local car shows and genuinely enjoys connecting with fellow auto enthusiasts.

Henry earned a Bachelor’s in Anthropology and English from the University of Vermont. He has since incorporated his love of the written word with his admiration of classic cars. While Henry is interested in vintage cars, he believes the golden age of cars is yet to come. He is confident journalists will play an important role in this revolution by exposing the industry as it is now and envisioning its possible future.

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• Candela and Polestar’s First Electric Foiling Boat Was Just Delivered—and It’s a Stunner

Polestar designers added details like a custom gray exterior and gold foils. But the tech is what differentiates this 28-footer from anything else on the water.

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Candela ’s first electric C-8 Polestar hydrofoiler, all dressed up in that auto brand’s finery, was delivered this week. Last year, the Swedish boat builder announced this special edition as an extension of its collaboration with Polestar.  

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“Design is an extremely powerful tool, as it can persuade people to make the right choice,” said Gustav Hasselskog, CEO & founder of Candela in a statement.

“Like the first time driving an electric car, you instantly feel that this is the future when the boat ‘takes off’—and now with the special gold details that we so proudly exhibit on our cars.”

The bling—or about as close to bling as one could get from a Swedish boat builder—is noteworthy. But what’s below the custom gray, seven-seat cockpit is what really counts. The C-8 is powered by a 100 kW electric motor and 69 kWh Polestar 2 battery that deliver a 65-mile range on a single charge, cruising at about 25 mph. What’s even more impressive is the 10 to 80 percent recharge in 30 minutes.

Of course, the real differentiator are the hydraulic foils, which come into play at about 18 mph. They deliver two to three times more range than a conventional electric boat with much of its hull running under the water.

The special edition, available with either a carbon-fiber hardtop or an open version, has enough seating for eight passengers and the captain. The boat is priced at $450,000.

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Electric Maserati Tridente boat takes to the water for $2.6M

Maserati and Vita Power teamed up to create the Tridente boat

Tridente sports 600 hp and 31 to 43 miles of range

The electric Tridente boat costs $2.6 million

Maserati has partnered with Vita Power to create a luxury boat, called the Tridente .

The boat costs 2.5 million Euros, which is about $2.6 million at current exchange rates. 

Maserati Tridente electric boat

What is the Tridente?

This 34-foot boat with a carbon fiber hull carries up to 10 people, has a bed in the bow, a sink, a toilet, a fresh-water shower for hosing off the water you presumably swam in, and a fridge. 

More importantly, it’s electric. It’s powered by four 63-kwh battery packs wired in series for a total pack size of 250 kwh. It runs a 400-volt electrical system with a maximum charge rate of 200 kw. That can fast-charge the battery from 10-80% in under an hour. 

The electric motors put out a total of 600 hp to two Mercury stern drives with twin props to handle the torque steer.

How fast and far does Tridente go?

Max speed is 46 mph, but cruising speed is 28 to 32 mph with a range of 31 to 43 miles depending on a host of variables.

In an odd twist, the Tridente I tested had ZipWakes we have installed on our own fishing boat. These are a form of modern trim tabs that drop down into the water to create an air cavity that helps level and smooth the ride. Noting the team didn’t have them engaged, I was told they are only used if necessary because they add drag. (Seakeepers also reduce side-to-side roll, but don’t drop down as much into the water, creating less drag.) 

Fancy yourself in the market? It’ll take about nine months to have it made and delivered.

Maserati brought me to Italy to drive the 2025 GranCabrio Folgore electric convertible, but the pretense was I'd also get to experience the Tridente. The experience was supposed to include me behind the wheel. I went for a ride on the boat and the instant torque surprised a few journalists who weren’t prepared for the driver to hit it, as a water skier would say. The powertrain was nearly silent and absolutely covered by the wind noise at speed.

More importantly, if you, me, or anyone were to find themselves on the rear sun deck, they'd breathe more easily. The Tridente emits no fumes because there’s no gas engine. Whether cruising, trolling slowly, or just hanging out on the water, there’s no smell.

Everyone at Maserati lobbied for me to get behind the wheel, but the boat’s handler looked me deep in the eyes and said one word, “Insurance.”

Next time, Maserati. Next time.

Maserati paid for travel and lodging to so I could bring you GranCabrio driving impressions, and ride in the electric Tridente, more on the GranCabrio soon

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Tesla Cybertruck

Tesla cybertruck might have become the best-selling electric pickup truck in the us.

Tesla Cybertruck might have become the best-selling electric pickup truck in the US. If it wasn’t last quarter, it looks like it will be this quarter.

Unfortunately, Tesla doesn’t break down its sales by model. The lack of transparency is frustrating as it makes it harder to track the health of its vehicle programs. Tesla is virtually the only major automaker to do that.

For Q2, the automaker confirmed deliveries of 21,551 “other models”, which include Model S, Model X, Cybertruck, and Tesla Semi sales.

However, we have a better idea of Tesla’s Cybertruck deliveries in Q2 because of a couple of recalls.

With a few recalls last month, Tesla confirmed that it had produced 11,688 Cybertrucks as of June 6.

A previous recall confirmed that Tesla had produced 3,878 Cybertruck as of mid-April.

This is a difference of about 7,800 Cybertrucks. If you subtract a few for the last few weeks of April and then add a thousand or two for the rest of June, it is safe to assume that Tesla delivered between 8,000 and 9,000 Cybertrucks during the second quarter .

In comparison, Ford delivered 7,902 F-150 Lightning in Q2.

GM delivered 2,196 Silverado EV, which is not too surprising as it is still ramping up production of the newer electric pickup truck. GM also confirmed 2,929 Hummer EV pickup trucks and SUVs delivered in Q2.

Finally, Rivian, like Tesla, doesn’t break down deliveries by model, but it did disclose that it delivered 13,790 vehicles in Q2. R1S and delivery vans undoubtedly account for the majority of deliveries, and therefore, R1T electric pickup truck deliveries are certainly below 7,000 units and most likely closer to 4,000 units.

This could mean that the Tesla Cybertruck is now the best-selling electric pickup truck in the US.

Electrek’s Take

I predicted that despite the Cybertruck coming a long time after the F150 LIghtning and Rivian R1T, it would likely achieve higher volume than those quickly after its launch for the simple fact that Tesla is second to none when it comes to ramping up EV programs.

We can’t confirm it because of the lack of transparency in Tesla’s sale disclosure, but I think it’s likely true that Cybertruck has become the best-selling electric pickup in the US right now.

Top comment by amigajoe

Instead of the CT, imagine if in 2019 Tesla had revealed a Ford Maverick-sized truck, using materials and techniques that they were familiar with. They probably could have started shipping two to three years ago, and probably would have delivered 200,000 units by now.

Would have been better for the company, the company's reputation, the planet, and TSLA (stock).

If not, at this pace, it most likely will be in Q3.

To be fair, that’s based on Tesla’s ability to ramp up production. On the demand side, Tesla benefits from years of pent-up demand for the Cybertruck. It will be interesting to see how it fairs once production is ramped up and it works through its backlog.

On the other side, there is starting to be some interesting competition, especially the Silverado EV, which is arguably a better value than the Cybertruck. If GM can ramp up production, it could be competitive.

I love to see some competition in this sector.

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