adding bowsprit to a sailboat

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Extending the Bow: Are Add-on Sprit Kits Worth It?

Bowsprits are back with a vengeance: practical sailor compares the latest aftermarket kits..

Already de rigueur with many performance-oriented sailors, easy-to-handle lightweight sails are gaining popularity with cruisers. And setting a gennaker, asymmetric spinnaker, or a new rendition of an old-fashioned drifter/reacher is easier than ever before. The big question is: Will the cost of a mini-bowsprit actually be worth the effort and expense involved?

After a series of sea trails with sprits, spinnaker socks, and free-luff furlers, weve come to the conclusion that the technology works well, but whether this is a valid investment depends on how important it is to you to keep sailing in light conditions. With fuel prices scraping the stratosphere, efficiency in light wind may be a bigger priority than it was in the past.

In our recent look at furlable code sails, drifters, gennakers, and asymmetric spinnakers (“ A New Twist on Furlers ,” March 2008), we proved that an efficient “no foil” furler made hoisting and dousing a large light-air sail almost a walk in the park. We also were quick to recognize that setting the sail a couple of feet ahead of the stem, on a pole, sprit, or other projection, improved both performance and the sails handling characteristics. With this in mind, we decided to delve deeper into the issue of sail-tack projection, and evaluate the differing approaches to tacking the light-air sail forward of the bow of the boat.

Much of the credit for mainstreaming this renaissance in bowsprits goes to Rod Johnstone, designer of the J-boat line and creator of the metric Js (130, 120, 105, etc.) that hit the water with a built-in, extendable free-standing pole meant to replace traditional spinnaker-handling gear. The new approach simplified foredeck gymnastics and significantly streamlined the chute-handling routine. Even so, cruisers and many racers rightfully balked at the prospect of having a big hole near the bow of their boat and a noticeable proboscis built into the topside. At the same time, shorthanded round-the-world racers were flocking to triple sets of furling headsails with light-air sails the size of circus tents set on an articulating tubular bowsprit.

This approach to sailing efficiency has now launched into the mainstream as Selden, Forespar, Forte, Sparcraft, and others have designed aftermarket kits suitable for a wide range of sailboats. All these kits have one aim: Move the tack point of any light-air sail ahead of the stem. Each design faces similar challenges, specifically the need to handle side loads on a tubular structure and the ability to adapt to a wide range of deck geometry and pre-existing obstacles.

Bowsprit engineering

In order to better understand the forces associated with modern sprit technology, a bounce or two on a playground seesaw offers some insight. On both the seesaw and the bowsprit, the location of the fulcrum and the load applied at one end of the lever arm determines what happens at the other. Its important to note both the strength and the direction of the pull when contemplating the force vectors involved. Like any lever, the longer the stress arm becomes, the more load is imposed on the fulcrum-and the stronger both the bowsprit tube and its support members must be.

Traditional bowsprits incorporated a bobstay and even whisker stays to reduce the bending loads at the fulcrum. Just as rigging turns side loads on a mast into compression loads, a bowsprits bobstay and other wires do much the same. However, many modern mini-sprits actually behave more like a free-standing mast, resisting sail loads through stiffness rather than being kept in column by a bobstay. This requires thicker or higher-modulus materials able to withstand the point load induced at the fulcrum, usually a collar-like fitting mounted on the deck.

Our furler tests revealed that close reaching with a Code 0-type sail (a specialized lightweight sail designed for sailing tighter angles than an ordinary asymmetrical spinnaker) or even the use of a more conventional light No. 1 genoa, tripled and even quadrupled the tack load. In Practical Sailors view, this sort of use mandates the need for a bobstay. Those planning to use the sprit solely for reaching purposes with an asymmetrical spinnaker or gennaker only need a bobstay if they intend to use the rig in heavy air conditions. Most manufacturers set extension length and/or wind speed limits for their sprits.

On some boats, the advantage of a sprit is offset by the amount of clutter it adds to the foredeck. Working around a windlass, bow roller, cleats, and the anchor well can turn an easy installation into a real challenge. Fortunately, these sprits come with versatile hardware kits and installation guidelines that make sense. Theres usually a need to add topping and backing plates, as well as address the concern about spreading the loads.

The installation is best handled by a pro rigger, but a skilled do-it-yourselfer should be able to handle the job. It is critical that the deck core be sealed at any new penetrations, and any new points of stress in the deck or hull are conservatively reinforced to cope with the loads of the sprit kit.

The Forespar Banana Sprit uses a smaller-diameter sprit tube with a thick wall section, and incorporates a downward bias and a bottom gusset to add stiffness. The latest version has been extended at both the inboard and outboard ends. It the features tangs on top and bottom, which makes attaching an endless line furler and a bobstay quite simple.

When using the sprit without a furler option, the Banana Sprit leads the line aft through an optional top mounted block-as opposed to the internal tack line in the Selden sprit (see below). For added reinforcement, the manufacturer offers an optional attachment bracket along with a bobstay chainplate fitting.

Theres an upside and a downside associated with the sprits shorter length: Forward projection is limited, but the units compact size makes it very locker-stowable.

Bottom Line: Though its deck fittings and design are not as elegant as some of the others tested, it will hold favor with those who have limited space at the bow.

Based in Ledyard, Conn., Forte Carbon Fiber Products is a composite spar builder that has gained solid ground with competitive sailors. Its sprit kit package comes with nicely machined saddle-type deck fittings and webbing loops for tack attachment.

Ralph Naranjo

The diameter of carbon sprits tended to be a little larger than the alloy alternative. However, the quality of the composite tubes we looked at met an aerospace standard, and for those with extra cash to spare, the carbon sprit option is worth a second look.

Bottom Line: The weight savings of a carbon fiber sprit is significant, but so is the price increase over aluminum.

Selden makes aluminum and carbon fiber sprits. It offers three different diameter tube sections for its aluminum kits. Each comes complete with end fittings and mounting bracket options. The tack line runs through the sprit, so the outboard end acts as a guide for a tack line. The sprit also has webbing attachment points at the top and bottom.

An owner can choose either a stainless steel mounting bracket designed to fit an anchor roller, or a similar fitting designed for direct deck attachment. The well-thought-out kit includes two inboard end-clips that allow the sprit to simply be retracted and clipped for storage. In cases where an anchor locker lies beneath the sprit, the tube can be easily pulled completely free and set in a second deck ring and inboard end-clip that is set outboard near the rail.

Bottom Line: This kits combination of simple but rugged design and user-friendly installation options moved it to the top of the pack. It gets the Practical Sailor Best Choice pick.

Similar to the Selden sprit, the Sparcraft system Practical Sailor evaluated is an alloy, free-standing sprit featuring a tack line through the center of the tube. The kit contains a stainless-steel mounting ring with a high molecular weight plastic sleeve insert that helps reduce chafe at the tube and the tendency for the tube to crimp. Sparcraft also offers a carbon-fiber version.

Various mounting options are available, including a temporary bobstay attachment and the ability to rig the sprit for the heavier loads imposed by a Code 0 or close-reaching in light air. The pole can be retracted for storage or removed and placed elsewhere.

Bottom Line: This sprit is very similar to the Selden, using a slightly greater tube diameter for equal-sized boats, and costing nearly double what the Selden costs.

Free standing vs. Bobstay Assist

As mentioned before, tack loads create an upward force that can be offset by a bobstay. The wire can be attached to an eye-fitting bolted through the thick solid fiberglass stem at a point well below the headstay chainplate but above the waterline. The bracket or welded tabs on the outboard end of the sprit effectively join the tack and bobstay into a single bow-string that puts compression loads on the arrow-the sprit. Hardware at the inboard end needs to be up to this compression loading. However, with a bobstay attached, some sprits can be used as a tack point for a code sail as well as for off-the-wind reaching with an asymmetric spinnaker.

With a free-standing sprit, the load at the fulcrum collar is upward, and theres a tendency to crimp the sidewall of the tube. At the inboard end of the pole, the force is downward rather than aft because theres much less compression on the sprit. Adding a bobstay causes the upward crimp load at the collar (fulcrum) to lessen, but a new compression component is introduced at the support structure located at the aft end of the pole.

Adding more sail to the pointy end of the boat will improve light-air performance, and the furling systems and sock technology available today make it easier than ever to manage more sail area. But it is tempting to go overboard, and add too much sail area and a too-complex system to handle it.

When all was said and done, our nod of approval went to Selden for its simple, versatile, alloy free-standing sprit, a unit thats intended for gennakers and asymmetric spinnakers. The hardware versatility makes it user-friendly, and its cost-effective price point adds to its appeal.

For those with a tight squeeze on the foredeck, Forespars Banana Sprit offers a recommended alternative. Its projection lengthprovides a sniff of clear air and a convenient tacking point for a gennaker or asymmetrical spinnaker. Forespar, does not recommend using the sprit for Code 0-type sails.

The best solution varies from crew to crew and will depend upon how much you care about performance and how much effort you’re willing to put forth to get that performance. A mini-sprit for an asymmetric or gennaker that slides forward into place and aft for easy storage will have the widest appeal. A more permanent installation with a bobstay adds light-air on-the-wind sailing capability and makes sense for those with reasonably efficient sailboats.

Carbon sprits are pricey, but the tube technology is terrific and the weight savings will probably appeal to those who go to the effort to keep neither chain nor heavy anchors stored at the bow.

• Bowspirit Details
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Add On Bowsprits
• The Perfect Spirit Remains Elusive

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Adding a Bowsprit can Provide Your Sailboat a Downwind Turbo-Charge

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Bowsprit power for downwind sailing

• Graham Snook
• December 30, 2020

Bowsprits are all the fashion on new boats these days, but do you need one? Graham Snook looks at how a bowsprit can make your sailing easier and faster

Walk down any marina or boat show pontoon and you could be for thinking there was some sort of nautical jousting competition afoot.

Older yachts too can get in on the act with retrofitted deck-mounted retractable bowsprits, but do you really need one and do they improve performance?

There’s nothing new about bowsprits – sailing ships have been using them for centuries as a means of creating more real estate from which to fly canvas as well as to balance a vessel’s rig – but they are more popular on cruising yachts than ever before.

Permanent bowsprits are often built with integral bow rollers

With advancements in sail-handling technology, a furling spinnaker can now be set up in port by one person and stay rolled up until it’s ready to be used.

At that point, it’s a case of unfurling it, sheeting in, and you have a spinnaker!

Taking it down is almost as easy: ease the sheet and take in on the furling line until the sail is neatly rolled away and perfectly tamed, a feat that would have been unmanageable by a single cruising sailor a few decades ago.

Why so popular?

Older masthead rigs tend to have large overlapping genoas, which are less efficient upwind

Their popularity has mostly been brought about by modern yacht design and the quest for better accommodation.

The IOR rules of the 70s did much to determine hull shape, but the demand for more space and accommodation has changed yachts forever.

One big difference is the rig.

Gone are the stumpy masthead rigs and vast overlapping genoas encouraged by the IOR without penalty, which have been replaced by tall, efficient high aspect ratio rigs.

The increase of popularity in cruising, and the lack of rules constraining it, gave designers a free hand.

Mast sections and materials became lighter and stronger, enabling rigs to go higher.

By moving the mast forward in the boat, it enabled designers to open up the saloon, and by moving the chainplates outboard and attaching them directly to the hull, eliminated the need for tie rods that eat into accommodation, increasing the feeling of space below while also reducing manufacturing costs.

Over the last 15 years bows have become less raked and more vertical.

This change has improved performance as the static waterline length and forward buoyancy in the hull have increased.

On deck, things weren’t as rosy for the cruising yachtsman.

Plumb bows and anchors are not good bedfellows, as anchors seem to be as attracted to them as curious hands are to ‘wet paint’ signs.

In no time there were battle-scarred bows all around the world.

To right this wrong, bow rollers started protruding forward.

Outboard chainplates reduce the loads on the mast and rigging, but to get good windward performance the sheeting angle has to be as small as possible.

Modern high aspect ratio rigs sail better upwind, but lack power off the wind

Clearly this conflicts with an overlapping genoa which has to go outboard of the shrouds.

Leading the sheet through the shrouds improves the sheeting angle, but spreaders still prevent an overlapping genoa from being used.

With the high aspect ratio rigs and the increased ‘I’ measurement (foretriangle height), and a reduction in the J (foretriangle base) jibs went from being 150-130% of the foretriangle down to 110% or less.

Not only did this increase upwind performance with more efficient sail shapes, it also made sail handling easier:

A shorter foot can be tacked faster as half of the sail doesn’t have to be dragged around the front of the mast before being sheeted in – 90% headsails have the advantage that they can also be self-tacking.

This is wonderful when tacking upwind, but in light winds, and when sailing off-wind, you start paying the penalty for reduced sail area.

A narrow headsail loses more power at the head of the sail as the leech falls away and it is increasingly blanketed by the larger mainsail the further off the wind you sail.

This is where bigger off-wind sails became popular and, necessary.

Continues below…

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Sails for bowsprits

On older yachts with larger headsails that could be poled out, it was easy to forget the colourful but unruly spinnaker – many kites lived their life under the forward berth, used only when there are crew in abundance or on a perfect day.

Some are put off by the hassle of setting it up, others may have had bad experiences and been put off.

But with many owners opting for a more manageable headsail of 135% – to make tacking easier and reduce the need for early reefing – the lack of sail area is noticeable.

Those with a smaller headsail area, found an easy-to-use downwind sail was needed.

Asymmetric (A-sail) spinnaker

A removable bowsprit creates space for more sail area, and keeps it clear of the genoa

Unlike a symmetrical spinnaker that requires a pole to take the load from the tack and the guy, an asymmetric (A-sail) can simply be flown by attaching the halyard and sheets, with its tack taken to a fixed point forward on the yacht.

With the bow roller now sticking out ahead of the bow it made the perfect location to attach one – although many needed to be reinforced to take the upward load as they were originally designed only for the downward load of the anchor chain.

When furling systems became smaller, by using a single continuous line and the advent of the top-down furler, it sped up the demise of the symmetric spinnaker.

Although symmetrical spinnakers are better for sailing dead downwind, once rigged, a furling asymmetric can be set, gybed and furled by one person, all from the safety and comfort of the cockpit.

The crew no longer had to dance around on a rolling foredeck, wielding a long pole while shouting instructions back to the cockpit – guidance, if needed could be spoken to the person next to you.

A symmetrical spinnaker offers the most sail area for dead downwind, but is more complex to rig

An asymmetric spinnaker has a loose luff and large area for offwind sailing

The downside of furlers is that they are expensive.

However, they are quality bits of kit that enable you to extinguish a sail with the pull of a rope.

The cheaper alternative is a snuffer or sock, but this requires someone to go forward when launching or recovering the sail and it can’t be left in position when not in use.

As bows became more vertical so did pulpits, so a line from the top of the mast could go to the bow roller without fouling the pulpit.

But on many older yachts, that had pulpits inclined forwards, to gain the clearance from the genoa furling drum they needed a bowsprit.

To get the best performance advantage from your sail, the bowsprit needs to protrude forward of the genoa as much as practicable, while still retaining the support needed to take the loads.

Taking it to the maximum

Some yacht designs, notably J-Boats, take this to the maximum with their retractable carbon-fibre bowsprit.

Others, like Fauby, have an inclined bow and have a reinforced raised fitting in the pulpit to take extra sails.

A smaller headsail area (in newer and older yachts) means if you’re trying to sail in less than around 10-12 knots of true wind, it’s time for the engine.

It’s at this time sailing folk of the 1970s would be heaving the large but lightweight ghosting headsail on deck.

Nowadays, we have furling genoas, and changing headsails is usually only performed on racing yachts or during a storm.

This is where we turn to the Code Zero.

A Code Zero has a straight luff and is flatter cut for sailing closer to the wind

A Code Zero is technically a racing sail, but Code Zero-style sails are popping up, as many sailmakers have their take on it and now the moniker covers sails that are usually flown on an internal luff rope, although various sailmakers have followed Elvstrøm’s lead with a cableless Code Zero.

While aimed primarily at the racing market, the lack of a torsion cable around which the sail is furled reduces weight and stowed size, and allows the luff to project further forward when halyard tension is slightly eased.

Code Zero sails are usually lightweight nylon or mylar and are furled and stowed while not in use.

They aren’t intended to live rigged for longer than they are in use.

One exception is Crusader Sails’ Super Zero aimed directly at the cruising market, which is made from laminate cloth and has a UV sacrificial strip material so it can be rigged at the start of your cruise and removed at the end.

Because of the loads and the luff rope within, a Code Zero will often require a bobstay from the end of the sprit to a point just above the knuckle of the bow to help the bow roller or bowsprit take the loads.

How furling asymmetric spinnakers work

Most furling asymmetric systems work in a fashion known as a top-down furling.

A shallow furling drum that accepts a continuous line is attached to the bow or bowsprit.

On top of the drum is a swivel to which the tack of the sail attaches; this swivel can rotate independently of the drum.

The furling drum is fixed to a torsion rope (one designed not to twist), and the head of sail is fixed to the top of this, above which a swivel connects the torsion rope to the halyard.

When the sail is ready to be furled, the sheet is eased and the furling line is pulled and the drum rotates.

Because the tack of the sail is on a swivel the rotating drum does not affect it, but turns the torsion rope, which starts the furl at the top of the sail.

As you continue to pull on the furling line, the sail is wrapped around the torsion rope and tamed from the top down until the whole sail is furled and the furling line can be cleated off.

Often a patch of velcro on the sail’s clew will help prevent the furls unfurling.

The luff of the A-sail has to be short enough not to hang down over the furler, and have a shallow enough draft to allow it to roll away.

Therefore, using an existing asymmetric and converting it to a furling asymmetric may be impossible.

With some furling asymmetric systems, such as Crusader Sails’ ‘Magic Furl’ system, the furling sail is pulled onto the torsion rope by lines attached to the luff of the sail at intervals up the luff.

Pulling the furling rope pulls these grab-lines, wrapping them, and then the sail, around the torsion rope.

Off-wind sail for bowsprits

Asymmetric sails (A-sails) benefit from longer bowsprits – something that has been known in the dinghy and sportsboat world for decades – as it enables them to sail deeper downwind and the sail is less blanketed by the mainsail and has a more usable sail area.

A-sails cover many different styles of loose luff asymmetric spinnakers for use from 60-170° apparent wind angle.

A-sails run from A0 to A6 although as cruisers we tend to just use one – a cruising chute, which is an asymmetric spinnaker with less sail area than its racing counterpart.

Narrower shoulders make it easier to handle when it comes to trimming.

Variations in sails

A-sails vary in fullness; if a sail is cut flatter it’s designed to sail higher to the apparent wind – the deeper the draft the further off the wind the sail can be used.

Sails also vary in size as foot length is typically 1.6-1.8 times the length of the ‘J’ and a percentage of this measurement at a distance halfway up the sail (known as the mid-girth measurement).

Many will have heard of a Code Zero sail; it’s a lightweight genoa for light winds.

Under IRC rules a sail that has a mid-girth measurement 75%, and over, rates as a spinnaker, so technically the Code Zero is a spinnaker but it’s attached to a torsional luff rope that supports the sail so it can be used from around 40-90° off the apparent wind.

They are usually flown on a furler and give extra sail area in light winds – handy if you reduced your genoa’s overlap for easier handling.

Fitting a bowsprit

If you want to add a furling headsail on a boat that does not have attachment points ahead of the forestay, you may need to fit a retractable bowsprit.

This will also give the advantage of creating space for more sail area.

I did exactly this on my Sadler 32 . Here’s how it’s done…

Sprit length is defined by the distance so the luff rope can clear the pulpit

1. Using the spinnaker halyard, determine the best length for the bowsprit – this is usually decided by your pulpit design.

I could have mounted the bowsprit forward or aft of the forward edge of the pulpit.

I wasn’t keen on the pole being in the pulpit because of the sail’s proximity to my navigation lights

Using the spinnaker halyard, determine the best length for the bowsprit – this is usually decided by your pulpit design.

I wasn’t keen on the pole being in the pulpit because of the sail’s proximity to my navigation lights.

The pole bracket can be deck mounted, or to the side of the bow roller

2. The pole is supported by a circular bracket at its forward end – the bracket can be deck, side or bow roller mounted.

Having a single bow roller (to starboard) it was decided that the pole should exit to port.

The support was bolted to the deck, and access to my anchor locker made access easier.

A spacer was added to raise the pole above my bow fitting.

3. The aft end has a spring-loaded lock that attaches to a padeye on deck (in my case just aft of my anchor locker).

Once the pole is cut to the correct length, the end fittings are drilled and riveted in place.

4. The finished pole is stowed along the guardrail to avoid fouling the anchor locker lid when not in use.

My Sadler 32 required the largest 72mm diameter pole because of its unsupported length forward – thanks to the Sadler’s forward-swept pulpit – and my wish to fly a Code Zero-style sail.

After fitting I installed a Dyneema bobstay to further support the upward forces on the pole.

• 72mm Seldén Pole kit, including end-fitting and pad eyes, £705
• Bow bracket ring £130
• Installation by Crusader Sails from £250

The pole is stowed inside the pulpit

The rigged pole, with bobstay secured through the anchor locker drain holes

• Faster, more enjoyable sailing in light winds
• Less motoring
• Easy to use single-handed
• Pole stowage
• Covers anchor locker when set
• Additional hardware cost

The Seldén bowsprit is easy to install and rig, but less easy to stow.

With a bit of thought, though, this isn’t a problem.

Once, when sailing into a quiet anchorage and going forward to take the anchor out of the anchor locker, I realised I couldn’t because the pole was rigged over the top – I had to de-rig the sail to access the anchor.

It’s a mistake I only made once.

Now if I’m anchoring, I’ll take the anchor out and leave it on the bow roller.

This test is as much about the Magic Zero from Crusader sails as it is the bowsprit.

Sailing single-handed , I think nothing of rigging in the marina and using it on the water.

Comparing performance, my 135% genoa would make 4.5-5 knots (with an apparent wind of 12 knots at 60°), the Magic Zero would take my Sadler 32 to 7 knots.

In light winds, where before I’d have to motor, I can happily coast along at 4 knots with the Magic Zero drawing nicely.

Rarely has a trip gone by in the five years since installing it when I haven’t used it at some point.

About the author

Graham Snook is a photographer and journalist who has been testing yachts and equipment for over 20 years. He cruises a Sadler 32.

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A Guide to Bowsprit Configuration from upffront.com

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A Guide to Bowsprit Configuration

Published date: march 24 2023.

A bowsprit is now an almost inevitable feature of a racing yacht or performance cruiser and there are also a number of off-the-shelf retrofit options available. The uptake is due in part to the popularity of asymmetric downwind sails which offer ease of handing, particularly when sailing with reduced crew. But even for a predominantly symmetric spinnaker boat, a bowsprit is necessary for flying a code zero or other specialist reaching asymmetric. In this blog we look at how to best setup a bowsprit to suit your sail inventory.  

Don’t yet have a bowsprit? 

If you are looking for a bowsprit for your boat, it’s worth checking whether there are any dedicated options available from the yard. Alternatively, let’s take a quick look at the standardised retrofit options available on the market. These are broadly split into 2 categories: A-frames and single tubes.  

Carbon A-frame from Trogear 

The A-frame sprits from Trogear are lightweight and stiff, making them just as suitable for racing as for cruising. Various mounting options exist, including compatibility with most anchor brackets. The big benefit of these sprits is that they don’t clutter the foredeck. A bobstay is always required.  

Image credit: Trogear  

Trogear bowsprits ⟩

Carbon or aluminium single tube 

Single tube sprits such as those from Selden and Facnor are typically much more affordable and can be self-supported without a bobstay. This is achieved by having approx. 50% of the total pole length fixed on the foredeck with the remainder projected forward. As a result, these take up a significant amount of prime foredeck real estate. For high-load reaching sails a bobstay is required.  

Image credit: Facnor  

Facnor and Selden bowsprits ⟩  

Finally, if you still haven’t found what you need then a custom or semi-custom approach may be the only way. Look for a local yard working in stainless or composites who is able to make you an offer.

Non-furling asymmetrics  

Image credit: Calanach Finlayson  

Let’s move onto the setup. For a downwind asymmetric without a furler, the tack line is connected directly to the tack of the sail. This is the simplest setup requiring only a single block, ring or friction sheave at the end of the bowsprit. If you want the ability to peel from one asymmetric to another then you will need either a second tackline parallel to the first, or you can use a peeling strop to temporarily fix the tack of the new sail before the tackline is transferred.  

Depending on the type of bowsprit, a bobstay may not be necessary for downwind sails. For example, short stainless steel prodders, bowsprits integrated with the anchor bracket, or stiff single tubes like on a J boat typically don’t have a bobstay.  

Furling sails 

Furling downwind asymmetrics and code zeros are also flown from the bowsprit but have slightly different requirements. A good rule for successful furling is to have an attachment point which does not allow the entire furler to rotate. A furler which is clipped onto a single tackline is liable to rotate inadvertently and wrap the furling line up with it. There are a couple of ways to prevent this. One is to attach the furler to a fixed metal padeye on the bowsprit. This simple solution removes the need for an additional tackline running to the cockpit. It does however mean that you will need to be able to reach the attachment point! Facnor offer a fixed furler attachment point which slides in/out along their bowsprits:  

Alternatively, use a 2:1 tackline where the dead end of the tackline has some separation from the working part. This separation prevents the furler from twisting once it is under load. The added benefit of a 2:1 tackline is better control of luff tension.  

Image credit: KZ Race Furlers  

A reaching sail like a code zero creates a higher load case than a downwind sail and generally needs a bobstay.  

A bit of everything 

If you are cruising then it’s likely that you don’t need the ability to peel from one asymmetric to another. In this case, a fixed padeye for a code zero or a single tackline for a non-furling sail is probably the way to go.  

But if you are racing, then it’s likely that you have a number of non-furling asymmetrics, perhaps a couple of furling sails, and you need the ability to peel from any sail to any other. In terms of bowsprit setup this is absolutely achievable and in fact it’s probable that halyard management becomes the limiting factor in realising your ambitions of peeling away endlessly into the sunset.  

To achieve this versatile setup, we need twin friction rings at the end of a the sprit for twin tacklines. Approx. 10cm aft of this we need an additional soft padeye or loop which will be used to create the 2:1. Both tacklines should have quick release snap shackles. You now have a setup where each tackline can either run directly onto the tack of the sail, or be clipped back onto the soft padeye for a 2:1. With this you can peel in any combination you like. Of course this also requires you being able to reach the soft loop for the 2:1.  

Summary 

Adding a bowsprit to your boat allows you to increase the sail inventory and spend more time fast reaching. But it’s worth planning the setup to suit all the sails you intend to use:  

• A single tackline with a shackle is sufficient for a non-furling asymmetric  
• Peeling between asymmetrics requires a peeling strop OR a second tackline  
• Furlers should be clipped to a fixed padeye or 2:1 tackline to avoid twisting  
• Adding a secondary attachment point allows a single tackline to be converted to 2:1  
• Twin tacklines which both have a 2:1 option gives the most versatility  

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Adding a bowsprit to a sailboat

• Thread starter jackmharrill
• Start date Sep 2, 2005

jackmharrill

• Sep 2, 2005

Hi, I was just wondering if anyone would care to comment on adding a bowsprit to a sailboat. The boat is a Macgregor V22. Since this has been a project boat, I am as interested in just doing the work as in any potential gains that it might give us. For anyone that might have done this type modification, I would certainly welcome your insights.<br /><br />I am planning a short 3-4 foot bowsprit with the capacity to carry the forward anchor. As I have removed the v-berth for replacement purposes, I am also adding a small bulkhead in the bow that should allow us to install a chain locker. <br /><br />I realize that the boat might not be financially worth all the work, but am using this as an educational project for both me and my son. Hopefully, with good guidance and proper installation, we will have a stronger, better boat when we put her in the water.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Jack Harrill<br />[email protected]  

Master Chief Petty Officer

Re: Adding a bowsprit to a sailboat I would think about having to reach out 3 or 4' in order to use the anchor.<br />I've seen many bow mounted anchors on both sailboats & powerboats. There are any number of ways to do this.<br />For that size boat a smallish dansforth anchor is faily easy to mount a number of ways, including clipped to the bow pulpit.<br />I think what you describe may be more trouble than you realize.<br />I'm all for modifying the boat for your needs, especially when a project with the kids.  

• Sep 3, 2005

Re: Adding a bowsprit to a sailboat From a financial perspective, it makes no sense at all to add the bowsprit to this boat. <br /><br />It seems like a simple project. You have to add a bobstay and its anchoring point to the bow of the boat just above the waterline. Then you have to put on the bowsprit itself. Once the bobstay is connected, you can then run an outer stay to the top of the mast. The only other part of the project is to anchor the bowsprit to the deck of the boat. I realize that this is a little over simplified, and we are planning a good bit of strengthing with epoxy and glass as we progress on this, but it just seems like a neat project for a sloop rigged boat.  

• Sep 4, 2005

Re: Adding a bowsprit to a sailboat Thanks for that thought. Is there any reason why you can't or shouldn't run a bowsprit on a sloop rig. I understand about the new stay for the bowsprit and the bobstay. It seems to me that it might make for better light wind performance to be able to run a larger genoa or a drifter on the forward stay. I was kinda hoping that someone might have tried this modification since it seems fairly simple. I have not done it yet, but am going to install the anchor for the bobstay probably at the end of this week. I have actually lifted the top off the boat in order to add some bulkheads to the hull. All has gone almost too well at this point. It has been a fun project if nothing else.<br />Thanks again for your thoughts,<br />Jack  

• Sep 6, 2005

Re: Adding a bowsprit to a sailboat There was a fella I new once who put a sprit on a 28 ft Oday but it never did sail very well. Changing the rig will effect the center of effort and in his case, caused a bunch of weather helm. When you extend the bowsprit out there 4 feet, it in effect, is like lengthing the rig without lengthing the boat to match..That being said, a naval engineer could change a few things like mast location, keel location, mainsail area VS head sail area, etc.. You get the picture, there are some defined formulas that determine these things... If you do it and get lucky, the boat may sail better but probably not...good luck  

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Quick Tip: Bowsprits

• By Cruising World Staff
• Updated: November 10, 2015

With many sailors choosing to refit older cruisers, and the new top of the line cruisers from J/Boats to Euphoria sporting either fixed or retractable sprits, many are asking if a bowsprit is really necessary.

In short: If you plan on using an asymmetrical cruising chute, then yes, a bowsprit will significantly enhance the performance of your a-sail.

Many people are opting for the ease and performance offered by asymmetrical spinnakers to replace the traditional symmetrical spinnakers on their cruising boats. If you are flying an a-sail, a bowsprit will significantly enhance the performance of the sail by reducing the blanket effect of the main. The longer the sprit, the less of an effect your main will have on your chute’s performance. If you’re interested in speed, a bowsprit will also allow you to carry a larger sail. Most importantly though, a bowsprit will make shorthanded sailing much easier. A bowsprit makes maneuvers and sail handling – particularly gybing – significantly easier, a very important factor for small crews.

• More: cruising tips , How To , quick tips , sail handling
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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Adding a bowsprit to your boat

• Rupert Holmes
• July 7, 2023

Nearly every new boat has a bowsprit, but what about older yachts? Rupert Holmes looks at what is available on the market for owners of older vessels

A custom made stainless steel sprit may cost around £2,000 for a 35ft boat and can be made so that it doesn’t add to clutter on the foredeck. Credit: Rupert Holmes Credit: Rupert Holmes

The performance benefits of today’s reaching sails in light airs , together with their ease of handling, are so beneficial that almost every new sailing yacht has a bowsprit from which efficient asymmetric spinnakers and Code 0s can be flown.

At the same time, more and more older boats are sprouting sprits for the same reasons.

Some of these are propriety units, with prices starting at around £700, while others are custom-made, costing around £1,500 to £2,000 for stainless steel sprits suitable for a 35ft boat, but double that or more for carbon fibre.

On the other hand, many others are home-made, using materials as diverse as short lengths of scaffold pole to salvaged sections of broken windsurfer masts.

Continues below…

Headsail furling: how to choose the right system

There is a huge range of headsail furling gear on the market. Rupert Holmes gives some tips for choosing the…

Electric winches, handles and furlers – a buyer’s guide

Maybe you want to spend more time sailing single-handed, or perhaps you’re reaching the age when winching up the mainsail…

9 expert sailing techniques to help you sail better, faster and safer

The best way to get a better boat is to improve the one you already have, I have long believed.…

In all cases the first step is to decide whether it will be used only for nylon spinnakers without furling gear.

This is because sails with furling gear, especially Code 0s, have much higher luff loads.

This means the whole set up needs to be much stronger and a bobstay from the end of the sprit to the bow of the boat near the waterline may be needed to counter the vertical forces involved.

A sprit used for a Code 0 will also be subject to greater compression load, so will need to be stronger and in a few cases may also require side stays.

A second decision point is whether a fixed sprit is acceptable, or whether you need one that can be retracted – to avoid incurring additional mooring fees, for instance.

The third is whether or not anchor handling will be affected.

The best sprits on new boats have excellent integrated anchor rollers and stowage, but this can be harder to achieve in a retrofitted arrangement, unless it’s one that sits on deck.

Bowsprits on the market

Seldén bowsprit

Seldén’s four aluminium and five carbon deck-mounted sprits are popular and easy to fit.

They can be used with nylon sails on boats from 1.5 tonnes displacement up to 26 tonnes.

They’re also rated for use with a Code 0 on smaller boats up to 6.7 tonnes loaded displacement (aluminium version) or 9.3 tonnes (carbon).

This style of sprit is easy to retract or remove to be stowed elsewhere, but the fittings will still clutter the foredeck.

Prices: from around £700 to £2,500 Contact: seldenmast.com

Facnor bowsprit

Facnor produces a range of four aluminium sprits for boats from 25-57ft that can be used with asymmetric spinnakers from less than 60m2 up to 150m2 and, Code 0s of 37m2 to 105m2, providing a bobstay is fitted in the latter case.

Prices: £700-£1,300 Contact : facnor.com

Trogear bowsprit

Trogear’s neat carbon sprits are typically fixed to the hull, just below deck level at the bow and hinge upwards when not in use.

The six model range suits boats from 25-70ft.

Prices: £1,040 to £3,500 Contact: trogear.com

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Adding a Bowsprit

• Add to quote

I found an article in a mag that showed mounting a bowsprit for asym spins on an anchor roller, by removing the roller and bolting on a bracket to accept the bowsprit then fastening the aft end to the deck. Unfortunately I lost the article. Could I get some Help finding it again? Thanks! Bob  

Bowsprit Hi Bob I'm trying to do the same thing. Yesterday I kicked out the broken sprit of our 42 Vagabond ketch. I'm starting to call around to find a wood shop with that kind of a log so it can be cut to size, the thing has to be 8 feet long & weight of 80 pounds, more or less. I'll keep looking for your answer when someone can post it. chuckg  

Sail Mag I think you might be referring to the March 2006 Sail magazine. In March I responded to post form a sailor in Europe on another forum. Since apparently the magazine was not availabe to him, I sent him a digital photograph of the article. Were a few folks contact me with their email address off-line I'd be willing to do the same. In later correspondence, he informed me that he had purchased a removal sprit from Sparcraft ( www.sparcraft.fr ) for a Beneteau First 40.7. At the time I looked at the Web site, no surprise that it's in French, and could not find the sprit. Actually, I'm somewhat interested as well and would prefer a retractable, removable sprit.  

i had one made by fkg rigging in st maarten it is s/s with an aluminum pole and a harken standup block at the end. i don't know how to post a pix so if you would like pix of it please e-mail me eric [email protected]  

Chuck, You might want to look at getting a sprit made up of laminated wood. It would be easier to get done and would allow the builder to optimize the grain and to choose better wood since the quality of large pieces is so poor these days. An epoxy laminated piece would be stronger than a solid piece.  

One thing I'd be aware of. Most bow rollers are designed to resist downward forces on them, but not necessarily designed to resist upward forces as well. A removable bow sprit, with a large asymetric attached, is going to generate some fairly significant upward forces on the bow roller if the bow roller is used to fasten it to the deck. If your bow roller is not strong enough to withstand these forces, it may tear from the deck, in the worst case scenario, leaving you with: 1) a large hole in the fore deck, 2) no good way to secure your ground tackle, 3) possibly damage the forestay chainplate. If your bow roller and forestay chainplate and part of the same piece, it may be sufficiently well secure to resist the upward forces generated by the asym.  

Bouts-Dehors That sub-topic might get some attention. In an earlier post I mentioned that I thought that Sparcraft offers a removable bow sprit. Try URL http://www.sparcraft.fr/fr/main.asp?url=http://www.sparcraft.fr/fr/produits/tangonsbout-dehors/default.asp&f=2,81,,113,a From there you can follow a link to the characteristics and also to a brochure.  

Bow Sprit SteveCox I went down to the specality lumber yard and they suggested the same, to epoxy a couple of 3" X 8' boards together. I need to talk with a boat carpenter to see what kind of cuts and grain he would want to use, then widdle it down to size. I use to 'widdle' a branch down in the woods of Maine as a kid with my boyscout knife - just not the same skill level.  

Chuck, I just replaced the 9 foot bowsprit on a Westsail for exactly the same reason as you are facing - rot. When the owner and I began shopping for the right sized chunk of teak, we ran into an insurmountable wall of sticker-shock. We thought some people were gouging, but soon realized that EVERYONE wanted the same price, and that teak has gone through the roof. The 4x4 we needed (teak walkways bolted to each side) would be $300. We even considered an aftermarket stainless steel unit, but it was $1000 and slathered with a thick coat of ugly. Just 'because' we went into a local lumberyard and asked for Ipe. $100 got us a beautiful Ipe 4x4 12' long. It was straight and clear and heavy as stone. It IS a little darker than teak when varnished, but it is beautiful and 'rock' solid. Everyone compliments my friend on the unit, and only a few notice the difference in the color. Opposite end of the dock, on a boat very much like your Vagabond, the owner used select mahogany to laminate a fabulous bowsprit that me and my friend saw being carted down the dock just yesterday. He had REALLY outdone himself on that beauty and I mentioned it was too pretty to be left outside. Now he's going to have to upgrade the finish all over the boat.  

Where you are is going to determine to some extent what wood you use but I have to ask "WHY THE H*** WOULD YOU USE TEAK FOR A BOWSPRIT??????" The two great attributes of Teak are that it won't rot (easily) and that it provides a natural non skid surface. You can duplicate the first attribute easily enough with other woods and you don't need the second on a sprit. For my money here in the Pacific Northwest I am using Doug Fir to replace my bowsprit. Strong, relatively light, and reasonable in price. Ipe would be fine but too heavy IMHO, Jatoba might be a good choice, Yellow Cedar would be another good one. Anything other than Teak at $16 a board foot.  

Well, the best reasons to use teak on a bowsprit is because, a.) that's what we were replacing, b.) the entire structure of the bowsprit, i.e. the twin walkways, the windlass blocking, and the deck supports, are all teak, and c.) BECAUSE IT HAD WORKED FINE FOR 30 YEARS, NEVER HAD A STRENGTH PROBLEM, BUT HAD ROTTED, the one thing you said it wouldn't do. Stay away from jatoba, also referred to as 'Brazilian Rose Wood' by those of us who've used it extensively on interior remodeling. It is extremely fond of splitting and chipping and no-one I know has yet been willing to risk it in the elements. It's hard enough to get varnish to stick to Ipe. Very hard, dense woods resist penetration by epoxies and finishes, resulting in early failure when exposed to ultraviolet. If you intend to paint with some of the newer two-part systems, however, you can expect good results from those primers and finishes. Varnish may yellow and peel within three months, or less.  

All fine and good, BUT where do you get teak for $16. a board foot? Everyone local (grand rapids mi.) want right around $30 for teak. one of the reasons I decided it was better to spend a few days sanding my coamings than to make new as per original plans Ken.  

Edensaw in the Seattle area has teak for a little under $16 for 4/4 and a little over for 8/4.  

How come nobody recomended Sitka spruce?? One person suggested Fir. There are better woods than teak for this application. Teak has poor compressive strength. A bobstay will stop the tendancy to pull the appendage from the deck if there is going to be a headstay attached to it. Dennis  

A bobstay is an excellent idea, to counter the upward force on a sprit. However, many boats do not have a good anchoring point for a bobstay.  

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The bowsprit in all its forms

The reappearance of bowsprits on fast, up-market boats has influenced the demand for this advantageous spar. On this one, fixed and in carbon, a genoa and a 180m² gennaker are attached!

On production boats, the bowsprit is more often than not in aluminum, and the sail often remains in place during the cruise. A strop fixed to the crossbeam martingale allows the vertical tension to be adjusted and thus its longitudinal axis.

This bowsprit is directly incorporated into the forward crossbeam. Its fittings allow a sail on a furler to be rigged, and the line which passes inside serves to adjust the height of the tack of the asymmetric spinnaker.

Certain models are made to measure. This one, triangle-shaped, allows the compression forces on the forward crossbeam to be better spread. It also helps when rigging the sails, as you can walk on it.

The bowsprit can get in the way once you have arrived in port. This one is fitted on a pivot, which allows it to be lifted and folded away, as long as the bobstays can be adjusted, so it can lift.

Made-to-measure, up-market models in carbon exist, from certain specialists. They are fitted as an extension of a beam taking the compression from the nacelle, so that bigger sail areas can be used.

This model, in high-tech carbon is a little technological wonder, which requires a sophisticated installation. It is retractable and incorporates some very compact hydraulic furlers in the tube!

The production builders, such as here Fountaine Pajot, don’t hesitate to offer this equipment as standard, as it has so many advantages.

Article published on 20/09/2018

By Olivier Barret

published in n°162 nov. / dec.

With modern sail plans, the bowsprit has become essential. But aboard our modern sailing boats, it can have several forms, and be in aluminum, carbon, pivoting, retractable… And fitting one on your boat - is it possible? Here is an analysis, so you will know everything about the bowsprit...

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We will keep you posted on new articles on this subject.

While they monopolized the bows of every ship at the end of the 19 th and the beginning of the 20 th century, this spar disappeared little by little as time went by, before returning in large numbers in the last twenty years. On our cruising multihulls, it reappeared at first aboard fast boats, where it allowed the center of effort of the headsails to be moved forward. But the geometry of recent sail plans justifies its use again on the most placid production cruisers. In general, genoas have lost much of their overlap, so as to make tacking easier. They have even sometimes become self-tacking. But even when the mast has been moved aft – as on certain very recent models – when sailing off the wind, on a broad or beam reach, they are no longer powerful enough. A gennaker or code D becomes essential, to keep up a good average speed. But if this powerful sail is rolled up just in front of the leading edge of the genoa (which is most often the case, remember we are on a cruising boat!) it greatly disrupts the air flow at the luff, drastically reducing the sail’s efficiency. And equally when the genoa is rolled up, it disrupts the gennaker. Finally, rolling these sails can be hampered if they are too close, not to mention during gybes when the chafing on the genoa can quite simply cause the maneuver to fail.

An advantageous solution

The simplest solution therefore consists of moving the tacks of these sails further apart, thanks to… a bowsprit. And the advantages are then numerous. Firstly, the area of the downwind sails can be increased especially as the foot is going to be longer. Then, the sails no longer get in each other’s way and the air flow is completely laminar. But we can also have them working together, which is very effective on a reach as it creates a venturi effect between the two. Finally, for points of sailing further off the wind, the bowsprit has the effect of distancing the leading edge of the asymmetric spinnaker and allows you to easily sail ten degrees further downwind, compared to a spinnaker attached to the forward crossbeam. You can thus easily sail at up to 150-155 degrees to the apparent wind. As for the maneuvers, the fluidity is much greater and the clearance between the sails avoids wrapping the spinnaker round the genoa. Thanks to the bowsprit and bigger, better-performing headsails, sailing downwind and/or in light breezes becomes fun and resorting to the engines is delayed.

Installation on the forward crossbeam

Forward crossbeams in aluminum are reinforced with an internal module for the compression. You can therefore fit a bowsprit with no problems, as long as it remains of a reasonable size. For a 45-foot boat, an 80 to 100 cm bowsprit is the right ratio. The major manufacturers, such as Sparcraft, Selden, Soromap, offer bowsprits in kit form, with various sections in aluminum or carbon. For an 80 to 100 cm length, the section will be around 80 to 90 mm. Fitting it to the bow of a trimaran requires ...

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Sailboat Bowsprits

If you are looking for some real speed going downwind, then you are going to need a good Bowsprit for your Gennaker or asymmetric Spinnaker. The bowsprit is a spar extending forward from the bow, it provides an anchor point for the forestays, allowing the fore-mast to be stepped farther forward on the hull. These spars are quick to add and remove from the foredeck after installing the deck mounting brackets and when in the inactive position, gives you a clear foredeck when arriving at the docks.

MAURIPRO Sailing is committed to offering Sailboat Bowsprits for the best sailboat equipment online. Get the most out of your next sailing experience by shopping here!

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Michigan woman charged in boat club crash that killed 2 children released on bond

A Michigan woman facing eight charges stemming from a crash that killed two children at a boat club was released Thursday on a $1.5 million bond, according to the jail and her attorney.

Marshella Chidester, 66, is accused of slamming an SUV into the Swan Boat Club, where a birthday party was taking place on Saturday about 30 minutes southwest of Detroit. Two children died and over a dozen others were injured, with several still hospitalized.

The Newport, Michigan, woman was released two days after she was arraigned in Monroe County District Court on the charges, which include two counts of second-degree murder and two counts of driving while intoxicated, causing death.

Two siblings, 8-year-old Alanah Phillips and 4-year-old Zayn Phillips, were killed. Their mother, Mariah Dodds and her 11-year-old son survived, though he's facing serious injuries including broken legs and ribs and a fractured skull.

Chidester suffers from 'epileptic type seizures,' attourney says

Bill Colovos, Chidester's attorney, argued in court that his client suffers from "epileptic-type seizures" in her legs and that she only had one glass of wine the day of the crash.

Upon Chidester's release Thursday, Colovos emphasized that a medical issue caused the crash, adding that his client suffers from neuropathy, "blacked out" from a seizure and is "very remorseful."

"She feels absolutely horrible. To black out, then all of the sudden be told that two young children were killed. Colovos told the Detroit Free Press , part of the USA TODAY Network. "It's like a bad dream you wake up from."

Chidester started having the seizures in November and a doctor told her to stop driving for two months, but did not restrict her further, Colovos said in court earlier this week.

Alcohol breath test exceeded legal limit, prosecutor says

Monroe County prosecutor Jeffery Yorkey said in court that a preliminary alcohol breath test was "significantly over the legal limit" but did not specify what the results were. Colovos said he is still waiting on a medical report that would determine his client's blood-alcohol level around the time of the crash.

"Believe me, I'm waiting for it," Colovos said.

Yorkey asked for the $1.5 million cash bond, pointing to what he says is a history of "severe substance abuse."

Judge Christian Horkey agreed to the bond and set conditions upon her release: Chidester is prohibited from consuming alcohol or any illegal substances and is not allowed to drive. She must undergo substance abuse testing and monitoring, which includes wearing a tether, Horkey said.

Mother sues nearby restaurant Chidester visited

Dodds filed a lawsuit against Chidester and the restaurant that police say Chidester was drinking at earlier in the day of the crash. The business temporarily closed after the crash due to the police investigation.

The lawsuit accuses Chidester of gross negligence, alleging she drove into the north wall of the boat club fast enough to enter about 25 feet inside the building until her car stopped. 

The lawsuit also accuses the restaurant of selling Chidester alcohol while she was visibly intoxicated.

Angie Huffman, who said her mother owns the restaurant, confirmed in an email to the Free Press that Chidester visited the restaurant at 11 a.m., saying she had one glass of wine and a bowl of soup. Huffman said she's confident the police investigation will show the restaurant is "not at fault."

Family receives over $224,000 in donations

A  GoFundMe for the family was linked at the club's website and raised over $224,000 as of Thursday. The funds will go toward funeral and burial costs, as well as future medical and other incurred expenses as the family mourns.

In an update Tuesday, the page said funeral service arrangements are on hold until the parents "are in a more stable condition for such decisions and planning."

Contributing: Frank Witsil, Detroit Free Press

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Adding a bowsprit

• Thread starter gray_penguin
• Start date Aug 1, 2010
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

While you can do a lot at the chainplate area most masts are built around the fittings and would require spending money to save money ?  

I just pickup up my Selden bowsprit. I haven't mounted it yet as I need to have a bracket fabricated. The only reason that I added a bowsprit is to get the cruising spinnaker out in front of the boat and in front of the furler.  

GP- at the end of the day, you'd still have a production boat designed for coastal sailing, only now with a lot of extraneous shiny bits. I don't see how any of that would make your Hunter 33 more suited to anything more than what it was designed for, but I do see it more vulnerable. Have you contacted Hunter, spoke to the NA?  

Freebird15852

Hunter 33 Bowsprit Project Hi Gary, I'm David Underwood, owner of Freebird (1982 Hunter 33) with the bowsprit project. I will be happy to help you out with what ever information you might need. My boat is located on Lake Lanier in Georgia. If you are anywhere in the area, I would be happy for you to take a look. I have learned after 5 or 6 years of use... My back no longer hurts from pulling up a well bedded anchor. I no longer have to dig in the anchor locker in order to drop anchor. I can sit with my feet in the anchor locker and pull the anchor up by hand without any problem. It makes an excellant diving board. No one wants to take my "right of way" with the SS Anchor Roller / Bowsprit on the front of my boat. I would not have made it any different. I am that pleased with the way it turned out. I spent a good bit of time designing, getting it constructed and installing it, but it has been worth every hour I spent. I also was able to save money compared to the price of a "ready made bowsprit". Let me know if I can help you in any way. Sincerely, David Underwood Freebird - 1982 Hunter 33 (original owner... 28yrs and counting)  

Attachments

gray_penguin said: Hello all, We Purchased a 78 Hunter 33 a few months back and I have been doing a lot of research on all types of things to attempt to make it as safe a possible for long range cruising. Lately I have been focusing on standing rigging. I am leaning towards some "none standard" ideas. One being replacing all the Old SS cables with High Tensile Galvanized cable with eye spliced ends. Having way more time then money, I plan to learn and practice tying my own eye splices. I am also thinking about replacing the SS turnbuckles with bronze. Intertwined in this whole process of research, I have had some questions about changing the "stock" standing rigging layout a little. One being replacing the split back-stay with two full length (stern to masthead) cables. Second, I have a hanked-on foresail so I will have to use SS for the fore-stay. I would really like to add a bowsprit to allow for mounting anchor rollers. In this process I have had the thought, why not add a second fore-stay in front of the one already in place that the foresail uses. This could be attached to the mast head to the new bowsprit, then bob-stayed to the hull. And this fore fore-stay could be in the High Tensile Galvanized like the 2 back-stays and shrouds. Giving me redundency in my fore-stays like I would have in the back-stays. Can anyone tell me if any of this is a bad idea and why? I am new to sailboat ownership and have a degree in mechanical engineering so, I am prone to trying to build a better mousetrap Click to expand

I have a Snapdragon 26, which has an added sugar scoop stern (making it 28' LOD). A bowspirit has been added, which allows me to use the original jib from the original headstay or a huge genoa/gennaker/a-symetrical from the bow spirit. I really enjoy the freedom to use whatever sail works best. Most of the time, in heavy trades, the original jib is the choice. But in light air...  

gray_penguin said: Joe: I only have the degree, I am not actually a practicing one. Which is even more dangerous most likely I will keep the Tri-sail track and boom gallows ideas in my list of things to think about! Extra cockpit drains are on my list of things to do. I am not sure exactly what you mean by "Bridge Deck", the cabin entrance is higher and inset from the cockpit area on the 78 Hunter 33. And I have had thoughts of adding swing out doors to the entrance but just not sure yet. Having extra boards would be very wise though. I have never been very fond of the cabin entrances on most sailboats but really not sure anything else really works. Click to expand

gray_penguin said: Ahh, I understand what you meant about the swages now. Still not sure about how the deadeyes would work though. I assume your talking about these : Deadeyes I do plan to increase the rigging diameter which will require beefing up the chain plates and fore/aft stay attachments. Click to expand

ahmetb said: One important consideration is that if your boat is not a heavyly constructed, overdesigned boat, such as the Hans Christians Lord Melson Tayana etc, you will find that any oversizing of the chainplates or beefing up the rigging will be useless since you will star flexing the hull and moving the bulkheads out of place. There are pretty good resons, besides economics, why the rigging of a Hunter, or Catalina or most other production coastal cruisers, si the way it is. By the time you beef up the hull and the bulkheads to support the extra tension, you will have added extra weight which, in itself will need other modifications. Click to expand

Hey Rad how do you open your anchor locker, where do you keep chain and line?? Red  

Hi Blokes and Shelias, what a great forum this is, I am about to do a big modification to the bow area of the 37 this year and here is a great lot of info about the very subject. Personal opinion, on any performance boat like a Hunter and others, SS rigging is the way to go, too much loading for Gal.(it's not an old pearling lugger) Windage, weight and Stretching is just to name a few things to think about. The question that caught my eye was the twin backstays, there was no comment on this. I am installing a furling Spinnaker this year and the twin backstay idea was on my mind as well, and wondered if any of you think that it would be a sensible thing to do. The boat Will be going offshore, but I don't want to add windage or weight if it is not needed. I think the designer has done a great job with the original design, but times and outlooks change, so not wanting to take the forum away from GP, your thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers and Happy Sailing Jeff  

P.S. I will be installing doors to the cabin at the same time for ease of entry, BUT the lockable washboards WILL be staying, a must for safety, coastal or offshore. Jeff  

Brian M H23

I don't think there is any corrosion problem with galvanized and stainless mixed. Stainless steel fasteners go into steel engine blocks on most any marine engine and they don't seem to corrode. I would just make sure to regularly (every year or two) inspect the wire inside the fitting and make sure the galvanization is still present. The beauty of a swageless mechanical fitting is that you CAN take it apart and inspect the wire in the fitting.  

Aussie said: Hi Blokes and Shelias, what a great forum this is, I am about to do a big modification to the bow area of the 37 this year and here is a great lot of info about the very subject. Personal opinion, on any performance boat like a Hunter and others, SS rigging is the way to go, too much loading for Gal.(it's not an old pearling lugger) Windage, weight and Stretching is just to name a few things to think about. The question that caught my eye was the twin backstays, there was no comment on this. I am installing a furling Spinnaker this year and the twin backstay idea was on my mind as well, and wondered if any of you think that it would be a sensible thing to do. The boat Will be going offshore, but I don't want to add windage or weight if it is not needed. I think the designer has done a great job with the original design, but times and outlooks change, so not wanting to take the forum away from GP, your thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers and Happy Sailing Jeff Click to expand

Been there, Done that I have done the things you ask about on my 1983 Hunter 33, with the exception of galvanized rigging. That would be a giant step backwards. A waste of time and money and probably dangerous in the hands of an amateur. I changed the split back stay for individual stays going to the masthead. I no longer smack my head and shoulder on the wire. Your turnbuckles are not stainless. They are chromed bronze. Unless some P-O changed them. The way to save money on rigging is to do it yourself, not compromise on material. When I did my rigging I had the upper fitting swaged on and completed them by measuring, cutting and terminating the bottoms with mechanical (Sta-Lock) fittings. Next time I'll do mechanical on top as well. that way I can just order a length of cable and cut and fit myself. I made up an anchor platform laminated of mahogany. 18" wide by 48" long by 2" thick, epoxy glued and screwed with 128 ss screws # 10 X 1 1/2". Later I moved the head stay out onto the platform 18". It is attached with about 12 bolts, several of which ho through the hull/deck joint. It ain't moving.Stem fitting and platform (bow sprit) fittings made up by Garhauer. The platform fittings are the pieces they make up for Island Packet. I reinforced the stem where the bob stay attaches with 6 layers of stitch mat and epoxy, overlapping at the stem for 12 layers. Moving the stay forward gave the boat some manners in higher wind. I've had it out in lots of heavy wind without a hint of trouble. In one of the other posts doors in place of drop boards were mentioned. I I added swinging doors and love them. I hate drop boards. The way I set my doors up I can still use the drop boards in addition the the doors.  

Hi again, thanks for the info, RichH I like the backstay idea you put forward, will have to look into the polymer info,if you have a site to look up I would appreciate it. I also agree that independent attachment of the stays is the way to go, will have to look at it from aloft and decide on mast out or leave it in for the challenge. I think the single stay is safe enough, but I am looking at a heavier air spinnaker as well as a light air one, so I think the added safety of twin backstays is worth the investment, and head knocks. Sam the doors are good, just the thing,ease of in and out and I am doing the same, glad you made it so the drop boards are still able to to used, well done. GH, seen a lot of rigging in my day and cheap does not work.Saving by doing the work yourself is not a problem as there is always someone around who has done it before and willing to help, GAL is the past, look at saving a few hundred somewhere else and go for the SS, your sleep will be less troubled. Have your problem with the bowsprit idea, but a lot of good info has been put up by our fellow boat owners, so have a few ideas to go on with. Thanks to all for the feedback, Happy Sailing Cheers Jeff  

P.S. RichH, interested in the running backstay concept as well, any info on it. Cheers Jeff  

Running backstays are great except in one scenario - downwind in heavy air. A gybe will send the boom into them, and seriously stress the rigging (look up Abby Sunderland) The purpose of running backstays is that you can't have a fixed backstay with a gaff rig. On a marconi rig? Running backstays are for the race boat.  

Redhead78 If you look close you'll see I cut the anchor locker door in half and I sectioned off the forpeak with an access door for the chain and rode. There's just enough room with the door open to get the old Fortress and 200ft of rode into the locker as a backup system  

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