climbing sailboat mast solo

How To: Sailboat Mast Climbing Guide

Last Updated by

June 15, 2022

Climbing your sailboat mast can be an easy and enjoyable activity. With the right equipment and information you will successfully be able to access all exterior parts of your mast. In this guide, I will teach you how to climb your mast with confidence. As with so many activities on a boat, safety must be your top priority when climbing your mast.

Regardless of your crew situation, the equipment necessary to safely climb your mast is basically the same: two halyards, a bosun's chair, and some form of harness. You can be hoisted by crew or ascend using an ascension device. The particular equipment you choose is up to your preference and budget.

Sailors die every year from improper climbing techniques. By doing your due diligence, you will be ready to safely climb your mast. Ascending your mast is not the time for cursory preparation, so you must double up on all safety equipment. Redundancy is key. Don't put yourself in a position where a single failure of equipment could mean your death.

I have been up my sailboat mast half a dozen times and have never felt unsafe or afraid while aloft. By always following thorough safety precautions and having solid communication with my crew, I actually enjoy going up the mast. It gives me perspective of my vessel and the surrounding area that is normally out of view. I hope this guide helps you enjoy your first time climbing your sailboat mast, as well.

I am not an expert on climbing sailboat masts. I do not know the condition or quality of your equipment. It is your responsibility to ensure your safety and the safety of your crew. This is solely a guide to help you feel better informed on this topic.

Table of contents

The Crewed Climber

The most basic way to climb a mast is to have a crew member crank you up using a winch. This method requires you to have a crew member on board with the brawn and willingness to do that job. If you are lucky enough to have a beefy, willing crew member then this section is for you.

Primary Safety Equipment (w/Crew)

• Bosun's Chair
• Main Halyard

Your primary safety equipment will consist of a bosun's chair  (or equivalent) connected to a halyard. Ideally the halyard will be one that does not have a free-standing block at the top of the mast. Your main halyard will likely be your best option for your primary line.

Feed your primary line through your bosun's chairs double d-rings and secure using a bowline knot. Tying your halyard to your bosun's chair will eliminate possible failure at the halyard shackle.

Once you have tied your primary line to your bosun's chair using a bowline knot, clip the halyard shackle to the d-rings as a redundant safety measure.

Prior to using your bosun's chair, be sure to read the instruction manual for your particular model so that you are properly secured within the chair.

Secondary Safety Equipment (w/Crew)

• Secondary line

On my sailboat, my husband and I have climbing harnesses that we use as backup to our bosun's chair. A foul weather harness will work for this application as well.

Put on the harness prior to getting into the bosun's chair. Just as with the primary line, use a bowline knot to secure the second halyard to your harness. On my sailboat, I use the spinnaker halyard as my secondary line. You may have a line better suited for the job such as a removable topping lift.

Which Winch?

Now that you have your primary and secondary gear set up, it's time to deal with the working end of your primary and secondary lines.

Due to the variation in block, winch, and cleat locations from boat to boat, it is difficult to give exact directions for how to set up your lines. On board my vessel we use the main halyard as our primary line. The main halyard runs out of our lower mast, through several blocks and back to our cockpit. We run the primary line back to our starboard jib sheet winch because it is self-tailing and has two speeds. Our secondary line runs back to the port jib sheet winch.

In this method it is necessary for both winches to be self-tailing.

Whichever line you choose to use as your primary line, you will need to find as unobstructed a path as possible for that line to join with your winch. Use blocks as needed to create a chafe-free path for your primary.

Every time I have climbed our mast, my husband has been below at the winch. Even though we use a winch that is self tailing, whenever possible we have a friend tailing the primary line. This additional safety precaution prevents line slippage and a possible accident.

The Hoisting Begins

You now have your harness on with your secondary line attached and you are in the bosun's chair with the primary line attached. It's time to test the system's strength. First, have your winch handler take out any slack in the primary line while you stand with knees bent at the mast base. Have your mate cleat off the primary line. Then, test the strength of it all by bouncing a few times in the bosun's chair.

It might seem silly bouncing around in the bosun's chair just above the deck, but it sure makes me feel better knowing that I have already put more stress on the system than I will at any other point during my climb.

Feeling confident that all systems are go, your crew member will begin cranking on the winch from the cockpit. Being raised up the mast can take a while. Be sure to wear shoes and gloves so that if you decide to assist in your ascension, you don't end up with paint slivers in your hands and feet.

Your crew member will crank you up a few feet at a time or perhaps a few inches at a time, depending on their vigor. Every time they pause on the primary winch, they will pull in slack on the secondary. They must secure the primary line prior to attending to the secondary. This will ensure that if your primary fails you will only drop a short distance onto your secondary line.

Once you have reached your working point on your mast, your crew member below will cleat off both lines. Your winch handler will surely feel like it's nap time but their job isn't over yet. While you're working, be sure your crew member stays attentive in case you realize you don't have the necessary tools for the job or you are ready to descend.

I have been at the top of my mast only to realize that I need a flat head instead of a Phillips, or electrical tape, or a multimeter. It's beyond frustrating to be at the top of the mast and realize that you forgot something or don't have what you need.

To save the arms of your cranking crewmember, bring a long piece of string in the pocket of your bosons chair. If you realize you need an additional tool, you can lower the string to your crew member and they will tie on the forgotten item for you to pull up. If you happen to be particularly forgetful, it would be clever to employ a canvas bag to receive the tools.

I have found that it's difficult to see the top of my mast while sitting in the bosun's chair even when it's fully raised. I remedy this by bringing a looped piece of webbing (a sling) which I connect with a carabiner to the top of my mast. I then step into the piece of webbing which raises me high enough to see the top of the mast .

The Fun Part

One of the most enjoyable parts of climbing the mast is coming back down. The work is done and now you get to enjoy a smooth, steady descent to deck level.

It's essential that your crew member below wear gloves for this part of the job. I recommend gloves for the entire job but certainly for this bit.

From the cockpit, your crew member will uncleat the secondary line and remove that line from it's winch. Your crew member will then take the line out of the self-tailing mechanism on the primary winch while maintaining a firm grip on the line. They will slowly let out the primary line while keeping three wraps on the winch. Continue slowly releasing line until all crew are deck side.

To aid in exiting the bosun's chair I recommend descending until you are sitting on deck. The extra slack will help you remove yourself from the bosun's chair as gracefully as possible.

The Crewless Climber

Knowing how to climb your mast independently is invaluable, even if you never sail solo. Lifting an adult using a winch can be difficult, time consuming, and tiring. By having the right equipment you can climb your mast with very little to no assistance.

Primary Safety Equipment (Solo)

There are many types of products on the market to help you climb the mast. There are ladders which utilize your mainsail mast track, webbing loops raised to the mast top using the main halyard, and permanently installed mast steps. Alternatively, there are devices which attach directly to the main halyard which allows you to climb the halyard. I'm going to refer to any device that is used to climb the halyard as an "ascension device".

Regardless of the ascension device you choose, these items are essential:

• Ascension Device
• 3 Climbing Carabiners
• 2 Foot Slings

Secondary Safety Equipment (Solo)

• Secondary Line
• 1 Climbing Carabiner

Sailboats are not all rigged the same. You may find that your spinnaker halyard is your only option for the secondary line. On some vessels, the topping lift will be the best option. You will need to determine which line works best for you.

Using The Ascension Device

The ladder style ascension devices are fairly self-explanatory. If you know how to climb a ladder, you're all set. So, I will not go into their use here. In this section, I will explain how to use a rock climbing ascension device to climb your mast.

This is an example of a rock climbing ascension device:

Beth lives on board her 1983 30ft S2 sailboat with her husband, 6 year-old son, and her two fur babies. She has been sailing and boating for most of her life. Beth has been blessed to experience cruising in the Great Lakes, the Bahamas, and in Alaska. She loves to travel and adores living on her tiny boat with her family.

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How to climb the mast solo

There are several different solutions to help ease climbing aloft. some enable solo ascent, others lighten the load at the winch for the winder. sailing today tested five different systems.

With nearly 19m mast height on our Contest 42CS borrowed from Parkstone Bay Yachts , it was to be a test of the tester as much as the kit and proved a very pertinent point: however you ascend it is never easy and descent can be exhausting, too.

Topclimber 

The Topclimber was an early market entrant in 1994, borrowing from mountaineering technique with two ascender/descender rope clutches combined into a seated harness with foot straps. The principle is simple and clever. Attach the 10mm static line to a halyard, thread through the two clutches, then fix to a strong point on deck and tension it on a winch. The climber in the rigid-seated harness, with feet in straps, stands and slides the top clutch upwards, sits down, raises his/her knees and slides the lower clutch upwards. Repeat the cycle and up you go, bit by bit. Reverse the process to come down.

•  topclimber.nl
• ATN MastClimber

This features an open-sided rope clutch that fits over any halyard (claimed 6-16mm), doing away with need for a static line (although we would advise using a static line for safety reasons, and you can still use one with this).

Beyond rigging, MastClimber’s method follows exactly that of the Topclimber, but with a more structural and, in our experience, marginally less captive (when falling backward) body harness. We had the same gripe about the spiky fittings on the clutch levers.

• seateach.com

MastaClimba

• mastaclimba.com

SWI-TEC Mastlift

Swi-Tec offers a smart geared enclosed lifting system for unassisted ascending. Its drum shape and heavy mass made initial set-up fiddly and begged extra hands. Mid-assembly, you unreel a braked personal lifting line from the drum, then halyard-hoist the drum with its endless looped control handline to the top of the mast.

For safety two halyards are preferred, fastened with a bowline not a shackle. Climb into the harness or chair, attach the lifting line and start hand-over-handing the looped control line. You rise slowly and, despite the 10:1 gearing, quite painfully.

• swi-tec.com
• from c£916 (€1,10)

Kinleven ladder

It’s simple and well controlled, akin to tensioning chords in pleated curtains, gathering or releasing the glass-reinforced, 34cm-wide plastic steps with  red and green webbing. The steps have central mast track sliders to keep them in place, and you simply haul them to the masthead on a halyard.

• kinlevenmarine.com

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Mastering mast climbing

• Mastering Mast Climbing: A Comprehensive Guide to Climbing Kits, Ladders, and More

Are you an avid sailor, ship enthusiast, or simply someone who loves heights and adventure? If so, you've likely come across the thrilling world of mast climbing. Scaling the towering masts of ships or sailboats offers an unparalleled view and a rush of adrenaline that few other experiences can match. In this article, we'll delve into the essentials of mast climbing, including globe ladders, climbing kits, mast steps, and the innovative topclimber – everything you need to know to ascend to the top of the mast safely and confidently.

Introduction

Imagine being perched high above the deck, surrounded by nothing but the vast expanse of water and sky. Mast climbing offers adventurers a unique way to experience maritime beauty and challenge themselves physically and mentally.

The Beauty of Mast Climbing

Mast climbing is more than just a physical endeavor; it's an opportunity to connect with the maritime world in a profound way. As you ascend the mast, you'll witness panoramic views that are simply breathtaking. The swaying motion of the ship beneath you adds an extra layer of excitement to the experience.

The Role of Globe Ladders

Globe ladders, also known as ratlines, are a sailor's best friend when it comes to mast climbing. These intricate rope ladders are attached to the shrouds, providing climbers with stable footholds as they ascend. Their design allows for a steady climb while minimizing the strain on your body.

Equipping Yourself with Climbing Kits

Climbing kits are essential for any mast climbing adventure. These kits typically include harnesses, carabiners, gloves, and other safety gear. Properly equipping yourself ensures that you're secure and protected during your climb.

Step by Step: Mast Steps Unveiled

Mast steps are another popular method of ascending. These metal or wooden steps are attached directly to the mast, creating a ladder-like structure. Climbers can use these steps to steadily make their way to the top.

Reaching the Summit: Exploring the Top of the Mast

Reaching the top of the mast is a triumphant moment for any climber. It offers an unparalleled sense of accomplishment and a view that's second to none. The top of the mast is also where various antennas and fixtures are located.

Mastering Mast Ladders

Mast ladders provide a more traditional means of climbing. These sturdy ladders are secured to the mast and allow climbers to ascend without the complexity of ropes or steps. They are a reliable choice for those who prefer a straightforward climb.

The Innovation of Topclimber

In recent years, the topclimber has revolutionized mast climbing. It's a mechanical device that utilizes pulleys and a winch to assist climbers in ascending. The topclimber significantly reduces the effort required to reach the top, making mast climbing accessible to a wider range of enthusiasts.

Read our top notch articles on topics such as sailing, sailing tips and destinations in our  Magazine .

The Comfort of Climbing Chairs

Climbing chairs combine comfort and functionality. These specially designed chairs allow climbers to sit back and relax as they're winched up the mast. It's an option that's particularly appealing to those who want to enjoy the view without the physical strain.

Safety Measures for Mast Climbing

Safety should always be a top priority when mast climbing. Before setting out, ensure you're well-trained, equipped with the right gear, and familiar with the proper techniques for ascending and descending.

Getting Started: Preparing for Your Climb

Before you embark on your mast climbing adventure, it's essential to prepare both mentally and physically. Understand the challenges you might face and ensure you're in good health for the climb.

The Ascend: A Step-by-Step Guide

Climbing a mast involves a series of steps, both figuratively and literally. We'll take you through a step-by-step guide on how to climb the mast safely and efficiently.

Breathtaking Views from the Top

Reaching the summit rewards you with unparalleled views of the surrounding landscape. We explore some of the most stunning sights you can experience from the top of the mast.

Challenges and Rewards of Mast Climbing

Mast climbing isn't without its challenges, but the rewards far outweigh the difficulties. From the physical exertion to the mental triumph, we delve into what makes mast climbing a truly unique adventure.

Mast climbing is a thrilling and rewarding pursuit that offers a perspective like no other. Whether you choose the classic method of mast steps or embrace the innovation of devices like the topclimber, the journey to the top is one filled with wonder and awe.

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite sailing destinations .

Beginners FAQs for mast climbing

Yachting World

• Digital Edition

How to climb a mast safely at sea – masterclass with ocean racer Pip Hare

• July 7, 2017

If you really cannot wait for calmer weather or even until moored safely alongside, this is how to climb the mast while sailing.

Of all the things I have encountered over my sailing career, climbing a mast at sea is one of the top five to get my heart racing. Any motion felt on deck is amplified the higher you go, leaving the climber not only to contend with the height but being flung around like a rag doll with every roll of the boat.

If there is any option not to climb the mast while at sea then take it – get to a port of refuge or at least some sheltered waters to anchor before going aloft. If the problem must be solved while at sea then ask yourself whether you could wait until conditions are light. The rougher the seas the greater the risk when going aloft.

When planning for long offshore or ocean passages, put together a dedicated mast climbing kit, then practise your procedure on the dock and in sheltered waters to make the live exercise a lot less daunting. Invest in a good quality climbing harness, big enough to fit over layers of foul weather gear, and a lightweight helmet – it is a good idea to remove helmet ear flaps for better communication.

Wear plenty of clothing to avoid bruising from harness straps and knocks against the mast and rigging or wear body armour as seen in our buyers guide below.

Before climbing a mast at sea think about the job you need to perform and gather together the tools you will need in a bag that can be closed while you are climbing but opened with one hand while aloft. I use a small drybag with a Velcro mouth but there are alternatives.

Having duplicate halyards is wise for any offshore yacht, and ideally use a spare main halyard to make this climb. If your boat uses a topping lift, then check that the breaking load is suitable for it to be used in this way.

If you have a double sheave box at the top of the mast but do not want a permanently rigged second halyard then rig a mousing line instead and carry a spare halyard. If this is not possible, then masthead spinnaker or jib halyards can be flipped over the shrouds and used in the same way.

Fractional halyards are less suitable for this type of climb.

Using a safety halyard is advisable but not always practical or possible. If it is vital you climb and a safety line is not available, then it is essential the person winching is experienced and has practiced with you a controlled decent from the mast under sail.

The primary danger is losing hold of the rig and swinging freely, which can lead to injury from high speed collisions with the mast.

My preferred method for preventing that is to climb abaft the mast with the boat heeled moderately. This reduces rolling and the mainsail offers a solid surface for a climber to lean against. I set the boat up with mainsail alone sailing at around 60° TWA, adjusting the traveller and sheet to ensure the boat does not round up.

Climbing harness and kit bag.

Prussik climbing knot.

Even for those adept at mast climbing in port, it can take a great deal of strength to climb a mast at sea just to stay connected to the mast. Generally the crew will resort to winching while the climber uses their arms and legs to keep aft of the mast, leaning into the mainsail, pushing up off the top of windward mast steps or even batten cars.

Swap grinders regularly if you are able and always ensure the person tailing the winch is looking up. Once in position to work the climber should use short strops to tether themselves next to the mast to reduce the risk of swinging around while working.

The descent can actually be a lot scarier for the climber than the ascent: handholds are beneath your line of sight and as the halyard lengthens the potential to swing is greater.

A good descent is smooth and at just the right speed. The cockpit crew should stand as far back from the winch as possible looking up; spare crew should ensure the halyard is free to run out and also stand by the jammer in case of problems.

Beware of spreaders, running backstays or radar brackets where the climber may need a bit more time to manoeuvre their legs and arms over an obstacle, and communicate constantly about the speed of the decent.

Climbing a mast at sea : the essential gear

Harnesses and bosun’s chairs, note: we may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. this doesn’t affect our editorial independence. where indicated, items have been tested independently of manufacturers influence., dmm vixen women’s climbing harness.

This is the harness I used in the video. It is designed for women. I’ve used it for about 8 years and it is still in great condition. It comes in sizes XS to L. I bought the L to fit over my foulies or larger clothes, but it is a little big when wearing just light form fitting clothes. Ideally I would get a smaller sized harness for that purpose.

• 5 gear loops
• 345g (xs) – 410g (large)

Buy DMM Vixen from GoOutdoors.co.uk

Petzl Aquila Men’s Climbing Harness

Maximum comfort for long suspensions and for larger body types.  The wide, comfortable waistbelt is ideal for all body types and adjustable leg loops adapt to clothing for climbing in any season.

• 2 slots for caritool holder
• 4 gear loops
• 320g (xs) – 425g (xl)

£95.65  /  $134.95

Buy Petzl Aquila harness from AlpineTrek.co.uk

Buy Petzl Aquila harness from Amazon.com

Petzl Ascension Ascender

This is the ascender I use on my own climbing gear. I use a left handed version because I am right hand dominant and it’s easier for me to slide the ascender up with my left hand while pulling up on the lazy line with my right hand.

• line size: 8mm – 13mm
• left or right handed versions

£46.76  /  $87.07

Buy Petzl Ascension left handed from GoOutdoors.co.uk

Buy Petzl Ascension left or right from AlpineTrek.co.uk

Buy Petzl Ascension from Amazon.com

Belay Devices

Petzl gri gri +.

This belay device can be used with all single ropes (optimised for 8.9 to 10.5 mm diameter ropes) and is equipped with an assisted breaking function. Suitable for beginner mast climbers to expert riggers.

• line size: 8.9mm – 10.5mm
• auto-locking

£90.86 /  $129.95

Buy GriGriplus from Decathlon

Buy GriGriplus from AlpineTrek

Buy GriGriplus from Amazon.com

Grivel Mega K6N Screw Lock Snap Hook

For belaying and rappelling. It is designed for use with both single and double ropes.

I use two of these in my solo mast climb gear. One is used from the bottom of the ascender to hold the footloop and personal lanyard and the other is used on the top of the ascender to work as a reduction turning point for the belay lazy line.

• 7000-series aluminum

Buy Grivel K4n Carabiner from Trek Inn

Black Diamond Gridlock Screwgate Carabiner

Designed specifically for belaying, the GridLock isolates the belay loop behind its uniquely shaped gate, thereby keeping the carabiner in its proper orientation.

I use two of these carabiners, both from my harness. The anti-crossloading design is reassuring as the repeated loading and unloading of both the belay and ascender has a tendency to make standard carabiners rotate and there’s a high risk of crossloading when solo rappelling.

• Anti cross load design

Buy Black Diamond Gridlock from GoOutdoors.co.uk

DMM –  Rhino Quicklock – Locking carabiner

For regular users of pulleys or GriGri like belay devices.

I use this carabiner on my prusik line. The horn stops the hitched on line sliding around the carabiner as it is repeatedly adjusted.

• Anti cross load horn
• Quicklock gate

Buy DMM Rhino from Alpine Trek.co.uk

Slings and quickdraws

Dmm dyneema sling.

Dyneema has several advantages over traditional nylon webbing – it’s incredibly light and strong, less susceptible to UV degradation and is more abrasion resistant. I use this sling as my personal lanyard between harness carabiner and the ascender. You need to find a sling that can be adjusted to your own personal reach length. I double this one over to give me the correct length.

• 11mm Dyneema tape
• Strength: 22kN

Buy DMM Dyneema sling from GOOutdoors.co.uk

Helmets and Body armour

Edelrid climbing helmet.

Wing-Fit system and rear adjustment dial fits all sizes. The cradle folds into the helmet to reduce stowage size.

• headlamp mount
• 54cm – 62cm head size

Buy Edelrid climbing helmet from Decathlon

Eclipse women’s climbing helmet

Ventilated and lightweight for smaller heads, this has a washable padded liner too. Handy headlamp clips could be useful for climbing in the dark.

• quick adjust dial

Buy Eclipse Women’s climbing helmet from AlpineTrek.co.uk

Pro Tec BMX helmet

You don’t have to have tons of dedicated single purpose kit on your boat, a BMX or other hardshell cycling helmet will do just as well. If you’re carrying a hardshell helmet to use with your own bike then use that for climbing a mast! (just beware of standard polystyrene cycling helmets and their fragility, one headlong smash into your mast and you should consider a regular polystyrene cycling helmet dead and must be replaced. Use a hardshell helmet that is designed for light knocks and bumps. I know some friends who sail with ski helmets because their boom is so low. A ski helmet would also be a good alternative.

• Polycarbonate Shell
• 5 sizes: xsmall – xlarge

Buy Pro Tec BMX helmet from Source BMX

Forcefield Ex-K Harness Flite Plus Body Armour

A premium brand motorcycle armour designed to be worn over a baselayer and under a jacket, this armour is robust and easy to don. Whilst I haven’t tested this particular body armour model, I have used Forcefield body armour integrated within my motorbike kit and it is really good stuff, comfortable and relatively easy to move in. This would suit the larger body clanging about up a mast at sea.

• designed to be flexible
• CE Level 2 back and chest protection

Buy Forcefield Body Armour from Amazon.co.uk

O’Neal Underdog protector jacket

A mesh jacket with strategically placed foam padding and moulded plastic cups to protect your fragile bits. IPX foam cushioning. If you’re climbing a mast in anything other than benign conditions, you’ll be thankful you invested in body armour.

• injection moulded plastic to shoulders and elbows
• comes in wide range of sizes from small to xxl

from £123.96

Buy O’Neal Underdog protector from Alpinetrek.co.uk Buy O’Neal Underdog protector from Amazon.co.uk Buy O’Neal Underdog from Amazon.com

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Arborist Gear for Solo Mast Ascents

Hybrid ascenders offer singlehanders another route up..

My introduction to rope walking ascent was caving back in the 1970s. Each trip started with 75-200 drop straight into a sink hole, followed by hours of cold crawling and scrambling in the dark. Tired and muddy, you then faced a rope climb without a whole lot of energy left.  Fifty-some years later, new equipment has moved the technique into the 21st century and given it some really cool advantages for sailors. Anyone who has seen the acrobatics in this year’s Vendée Globe could recognize how these devices would be beneficial to the single-handed sailor.

There are a half a dozen basic methods for climbing a fixed rope using ascenders. Most involve using the feet to lift the weight and the hands to move the ascenders up between steps. The ATN Mast Climber system (see “ PS reviews of the ATN Topclimber,” January 2001 and August 2005), uses one ascender attached to the feet with a sling, and one attached to the waist harness. Rope-walking systems, on the other hand, fix one ascender directly to your dominant foot with a compact harness.

Another ascender, often referred to as a knee ascender, floats at about knee height, suspended between a harness to the other foot by a length of bungee cord that is routed up through a carabiner or small block on your waist harness, and back down to the foot ascender. Both of these ascenders are completely self-tending. You march up the rope, hardly thinking about what your feet are doing, with your hands free to grab the rope, mast, or anything else that will help your progress and prevent swinging—a real nuisance in the harbor, and a serious danger underway.

Rate of climb

At the local climbing crag, we found we could easily maintain an easy 30-foot-per-minute pace for hundreds of feet. Just keep marching at one easy step per second, hands gripping either the rope or rock. Some of our test climbing was banging against rock, and some was free-hanging under overhangs.

The rigging is a little fussy to adjust. Expect to spend 30 minutes settling on the right lengths for the knee ascender strap, bungee cord, and flip line.

The flip line deserves a little explanation. Arborists and construction workers carry an adjustable length line that they “flip” around the tree or structure so that they can lean against it to work. Think of the old leather strap that line workers use to use on telephone poles. Likewise, the mast climbing sailor uses a length of rope or a sewn climbing sling with a clip on each end to wrap around the mast and keep from swinging. Industrial harnesses have special D-rings on each hip to attach these. Climbing harnesses, on the other hand, have only one strong point, the center waist tie-in (accessory loops on the hips are not designed for use with flip lines.) I like to carry two climbing slings to use as flip lines, and at least 4 carabiners, for maximum flexibility in securing myself off to work.

Chest harness or not? If you are thinking of using your sailing harness  for this … forget it. The tie-in point for the chest ascender is mid-to-upper sternum and most sailing harnesses cross below the sternum. Instead of a chest harness, most arborists use a flip line connected to an eye in  the chest ascender. The line is rigged from one hip, over the shoulder, and down to  the chest ascender at sternum-level.

We tried both a climbing-specific chest harness and the flip line/chest ascender method, and decided the flip line method was simpler and more versatile (as illustrated on page 17).

Designed for arborists, cavers, and climbers rely on single line ascents and descents, the climbing gear described in this report is specialized equipment that requires training, and applying it to mast-climbing requires an added level of risk.

• The Rock Exotica is an example of the hybrid uniscenders that the Vendée Globe sailors used.
• Adding foam padding to the climbing harnesses seat makes it more comfortable when working aloft for long periods.

Working aloft

Most systems place your nose just over the masthead. I like it closer to waist high, so I can look down on what I’m doing. To move up simply…

• Step up until the chest ascender is nearly out of rope.
• With one arm wrapped around the mast, lean in and wrap one of your flip lines around the mast, so you can’t fall back.
• Detach the upper carabiner of the chest ascender. Note that it is still attached to your waist harness.
• Wrap both arms around the mast, step up and lean forward, over the masthead. Cup the mast with your knees. You should be in a no-hands rest, leaning against the mast. Wrap the other flip line around the top of the mast, getting it snug and secure.
• You are now secure to work, supported by both the foot and by the knee ascenders, two flip lines, and you are backed up by the chest ascender. Safe.

The really cool part is that you don’t have to climb back down, step by step, as you do with other climbing systems. Hybrid ascenders convert to descender without removing them from the rope or re-rigging. You simply sit back in the harness, remove the foot and knee ascenders from the rope, and the hybrid device provides adjustable friction during the descent, just like the rappel devices rock climbers use. Going too fast? Just let go and the device locks up, stopping the descent. Each device has a specific procedure. Study it closely.

Because your hands are free to grab the rope, the mast, or standing rigging, it is surprisingly easy to maintain your balance on a stationary boat and control your motion on a moving one. Holding the rope or rigging, one of your hands will always be near full extension over your head, like climbing a steep ladder. It takes only light pressure, little more than the weight of your arm, to stay in balance. You can hug the mast if the boat is swaying; again, it takes little effort to stay in balance over your feet. And just keep chugging away with your feet. With a little practice, it’s just like climbing a ladder.

Single Rope Ascender Kits

Knee pads and helmets.

While not needed at the dock, underway they are damn handy, as are gloves. A foam, Type III PFD  can be good for the ribs. The first time I climbed a mast, many years ago, we were sailing to windward. The boat was stable, all I had to do was retrieve a fly-away spinnaker halyard, and the ATN Top Climber system worked fine. The second trip, on the other hand, was a rolly downwind horror show climbing mast steps with a belay from a halyard. I was young and hung on tight, but the steps were a menace and a rope walking system or halyard hoist would have been safer.

Pros and Cons

Rock climbers dislike the method because there is more gear to carry, and it is prone to snagging when working around overhangs and through chimneys. But cavers, and arborists like it for its speed and energy conservation. The rigging is more complex, but once you work out the lengths, it’s ready to go in minutes.

The Petzl Zigzag was one of the first hybrid devices and has a faithful following. We saw one on a Vendée Globe boat.

Although it works very well, the Zigzag/Chicane combo is expensive, bulky, and must be threaded on from the end of the rope. This works for arborist, but darn inconvenient for climbing a halyard rigged through mast foot blocks and jammers. The Rock Exotica Unicender, on the other hand, can be installed midrope. We also find the descent friction adjustment smoother and more adjustable with the Unicender.

Ascenders and descenders are always sensitive to rope size and stiffness. Most are optimized for not too stiff 7/16- to 1/2-inch double braid rope and 9-11mm climbing rope. Too small they may not catch, too large and they may not feed. Check manufacture requirements.  We tested on a stiff 7/16-inch halyard and a well-used 10mm climbing rope; all the units worked perfectly on both.

Do add extra padding to the leg loops of common climbing harnesses. We’ve reported on this before, but it is one of the best, cheapest comfort steps you can take.

Lower Ascenders

Conclusions.

The big difference to us was having our hands free to hold on, balance, and maneuver. Around the crag and docks it was handy. Going aloft off-shore, this seems like a big deal. On the other hand, the increase in complexity and cost is a drag.

For a Vendée Globe guy, facing a 120-foot climb underway, we see the advantages, though we also see a lot of systems, all with their adherents. The frog style or Mastmate is probably the better value for climbing a 40- to 60-foot stick at the dock.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Drew, From being a rock climber when I was younger, I did not want to use a foot ascender. My issue is that if you bang it against the mast or if it adjusts badly on your foot, its difficult to correct mid-climb. I have used this setup https://l-36.com/more_mast_climbing.php using a Grigri. The grigri is an amazing piece of kit. Its basically works like a Prusic but is much friendlier to use. Aongus

Drew, I’m 64 years old, former rock climber. I live on a Bavaria 46 Cruiser. I bought the ATN mast climber, but found it difficult to use. After watching many YouTube videos of arborists using the Petzl Zigzag/Chicane with Croll knee ascender and foot ascender, I decided to give it a try.

First impression: Difficult to set up. It’s really designed for professionals. Climbed and descended the mast easily. It works. Not for beginners.

I’ve used a Grigri while rock climbing, which I really like. I’ll have to try the setup that Aongus Flood recommends.

I agree with the commenters, that the rope walking systems are fussy to adjust. Very fast while climbing, but not the best choice for most users. Unless you are climbing often or far (big wall, industrial, or rigger) I would use a conventional ascender system or a mast ladder (fixed or webbing). I tested using both the Rock Exotica Unicender and a common ascender that I had on my rack, and they both knocked out 100-foot climbs in just minute or two with little effort. But fussy to set up just right.

The foot ascender must be properly secured, and it can be uncomfortable if you don’t get it right. I tested on cliffs with overhangs and lots of banging. No problems. You also need a good harness, since it is difficult to get your weight onto your feet.

(61-year old rock climber, still active)

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Climbing A Sailboat Mast… All Alone! VIDEO

Climbing a sailboat mast is usually a 2-person operation. I prefer to do it alone and in this video I share how.

I was climbing and mountaineering for a long time before I started sailing and the method I use for climbing our mast uses something very simple, yet effective: prusik knots. If you’ve ever thought about how to climb a mast solo then this video may be useful for you.

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Good video. I like your risk analysis. I’ve used a very similar technique except I happen to have a big bin of gear from big wall climbing, so I use mechanical ascenders instead of prussiks. The only thing I question is your backup. You wouldn’t want to fall onto the prussik on the topping lift. It might slip and melt.

Hi Duncan, thank you for your comment.

I can understand why you think this, but I assure you I tested that setup a number of times before I went up the mast. Despite the nylon safety line being a larger diameter than would usually be used on a line with the diameter of the topping lift, I tested it by pulling on the prusik lots of different times, from different directions, and in different ways (i.e. sharp tugs, slowly increasing the load etc.) It didn’t slip at all. Not once. After these initial tests I again tested it using my body weight and had exactly the same result. If anything it was almost too ‘grippy’ making it a tad difficult at times to slide it up and down with me. (The topping lift outer core is very rough on our boat, if it was a new line the results may have been different.)

Regarding ascenders, let me quote a section from the book “Climbing Self-rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations ” in the context of moving up and down fixed lines.

“Compared to friction hitches, mechanical ascenders have several advantages: they are extremely easy to clip on and off the rope, they slide with great ease, and they offer a comfortable grip. There are, however, disadvantages to using mechanical ascenders: they are heavy, expensive, and their application is more limited than a set of prusiks.

Mechanical ascenders, if used at all, should be used with great caution when belaying or hauling . Testing shows that a shock load on mechanical ascenders can dangerously damage the rope – even shred the core. Because of mechanical ascenders small camming area, in the event of a fall the rope can be severely damaged at as little as a third of the rope’s rated strength. We do not recommend using a mechanical ascender in a raising system.

There are a few ascenders that are light and small. The Wild Country Ropeman and the Petzl Tibloc are two examples. These devices solve the weight issue whilst being quick and easy to use. They still have the disadvantage of being able to severely damage (even cut) the rope in a dynamic loading event, and they are not releasable under a load. Prusik hitches are the rescue tool of choice despite the apparent advantages of a piece of manufactured gear and easy application”

[I was unable to copy and paste the above, so had to type it all out manually!]

Thank you for sharing your opinion, we can all learn from each other and as this is an important subject it is good for there to be a healthy discussion about our various techniques.

Fair winds, Chris

MAST MATE CLIMBING SYSTEM

The original mast ladder, made in the USA since 1989.

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Mast Mate closing  business 10th of September

A Skipper’s First Mate Is Self Reliance Sailboat ladder or mast ladder that allows one to climb the mast alone for maintenance.

CLIMBING SYSTEM

Mast Mate is an alternating-step, flexible mast ladder made of 2 inch-wide nylon webbing. Each mast step is reinforced with an additional piece of webbing.The sewn tensile strength of the webbing is a minimum of 3,000 pounds.

TOOL BAG WORKBELT

The design is similar to a linesman’s belt, consisting of an adjustable waist belt with a tool bag conveniently affixed at the back and a tether strap that goes around the mast and clips back onto the opposite side of the belt…

DEAR SAILOR

Thank you for your

interest in the Mast

Mate Climbing

System…

I take pride in introducing you to Mast Mate, an efficient, single-handed, patented mast climbing device and the practical Tool Bag Workbelt. Combined, they make going aloft and working a simple, easy and, most importantly, safe experience. As a sailor, I know that going aloft is a serious matter, be it at the dock or underway. The quality of Mast Mate and the Workbelt reflect that belief.

All our mast step ladders and Tool Bag Workbelts are made in the U.S.A with quality materials and meticulous craftmanship. Whether you cruise, day sail or race, mast maintenance is a chore that cannot be overlooked. If it is, you will pay the price in time and money, or worse! Mast Mate can be rigged in five minutes and climbed in less time than that. Combined with the Workbelt securing you to the mast, small repairs like changing a bulb or fixing a wind indicator, as well as larger jobs, such as replacing shrouds or varnishing can be attended to without assistance. No more winching; no more scouting the dock for help; no more not quite being able to reach the masthead.

Over the years, we have supplied the Mast Mate Climbing System to Single Handed Transpac Racers, as well as to a number of challengers in the Ostar Races. A single hander has no one but himself to count on. I am sure you will find the Mast Mate Climbing System the best method for climbing and working aloft.

TESTIMONIALS

Thank you to Nic Morgan from “The Boat Life Blogger” for this video. His blog is fun and informative.

Please do not use the work belt as a safety harness. Use the work belt around the mast when you are in position to work.

I went up the mast using MastMate today, in order to repair the wind speed indicator.  Here are my takeaways:

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Climbing the mast solo

• Thread starter jonelli
• Start date Aug 1, 2019
• Catalina Owner Forums
• Catalina 30

justsomeguy

jonelli said: with my wife at the bottom keeping it tight and cleated. Click to expand

“Solo” loosely used. Really meaning no real help from anybody else. But I could do it with no one around this way if I was stupid enough.  

The Shadow Knows

J, I've been using Topclimber for a number of years now. I also have someone @ the mainsail winch for a safety line when going up-n-down. What I do like about this is that when at the top, my head is higher than the masthead crane thereby having an advantage for working on everything without having to extend my arms upward working overhead. I've used this on friend's boats & with simple instructions, they now borrow it & take themselves up the mast. I feel safe using this & with alittle practice, it's quite easy to go up-n-down. Here's a link for this & several different brands & as the R&B song goes, "Higher-n-Higher." https://www.google.com/search?sourc...=hp..3.0l5.0.0.0.6695...........0.oGd2cfV0V6w  

Think about how your system is going to function after you load it if you fall/loose footing. The details were very basic so forgive me but cleating off the belay (what your wife will be handling) will require her to unload the rope enough to uncleat it in this case. Even if it is wrapped on a winch. Think about how she is going to raise you to get to the next upper step, unload the prusiks or lower you all the way down. Have a system that promotes safety going up, going down and rescues you in the event of a emergency. Again, forgive me if I'm preaching to the choir.  

jonelli said: You can do all that with basic climbing knowledge and some caribiners. You can even make your own harness out of webbing if you don't have a bosun's chair. I am thinking my ladder idea is a bit easier and faster to ascend. How to ascend using Prusik knots: How to make a chest and waist harness (I LOVE this guy): Click to expand

I've got this pretty well laid out. Maybe I didn't explain it very well (which is often the case!) Mast Ladder is just the main method of effort to ascend or descend. Prusik attachment to harness/chair on another fixed halyard - My own safety/fall arrester Wife taking slack on a completely different halyard/winch. - Just an extra precaution.  

Finally concluding the results of my DIY mast ladder. I actually tried it. I used a double harness for safety and two halyards with ascenders attached. My finding was that having a sail slide every 5 feet NOT enough. In between the sail slides (about 5 feet in my case) caused the web ladder to be able to move away from the mast too much and was very scary trying to find your footing. So, as is, it was a TON of work to get up to the top, very daunting, and I wouldn't want to do it again like that. I have decided that if every step had it's own sail slide, it would be much easier to climb, and a waist lanyard like the telephone pole guys have, would allow your hands to be free and still hang-on so you can rest on the way up. I plan on re-doing my ladder with sail slides and trying the waist lanyard next time I do it.  

I use two ascenders on the spare jib halyard, with bosuns chair and self made foot straps, and a third ascender on a web harness for safety line on the spinnaker halyard. I find it much easier climbing than other methods, and no reliance on a person manning a line. Just be sure to have tension in the line you are climbing on..  

Will Gilmore

Does the mast mate get tired at the bottom? Pull it right and make it fast to stop the swing away from your line of ascent. -Will (Dragonfly)  

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Solo Climbing the Mast- Block and Tackle

• Add to quote

What blocks do you use when solo climbing the mast? Also, what purchase? Thanks.  

Ascenders and a gri-gri. No purchase.  

bought the ATN Mastclimber and am pleased with it  

I've gone up with this one also. Works good!  

An ascender, a gri-gri II, foot sling, and a good harness. Here's a random youtube video. The Gri-Gri works as an ascender on the way up and a rappellor on the way down. Good luck and practice up and down a couple feet off the deck before going aloft. goat Oh yeah; seek professional training and all that blah,blah, blah cover my ass stuff.  

Harken ratchet blocks, ascender, and 4 to 1 tackle.  

There was a time when every cruising boat over 40 feet or so had a block and tackle rig for going aloft alone, aboard. It was standard equipment, just like a hand bearing compass and a sextant. Now a days, there are so few folks who would even consider going aloft on their own boat and so many alternatives, that it is rare to find a rig aboard. When I purchased this boat, I looked into building a set up and found it pretty expensive. First, you need very good quality roller bearing blocks, without any fancy junk like cam cleats and ratchets. You will need at least a 5 part purchase, 6 would be better. Multiply that times spar length, lets say 70 feet in my case, and you'll need over 350 feet of 1/2 inch dacron double braid line. Anything less than half inch can become very hard to grip if you are at all tired. Then you need a quality bosun's chair, which I really prefer (pockets and extra clip on spots to keep you away from the mast when going aloft offshore), but many riggers today use harnesses instead. So now you've got a huge coil of line to stow, which can not be used for anything else, lest it get damaged and become useless for safely taking you aloft. And last, but certainly not least, there is a very special way to tie the line so there is absolutely no chance of it slipping, or becoming fouled, but very easily untied. Perhaps the climbing rigs are a better way to go today, though I've never tried them.  

I now use the TopClimber (similar to ATN MastClimber) and am very pleased with it. You can see my review of it here .  

I just checked out the top climber: See it work - Topclimber Safety questions on the video: 1. The climber has no secondary back up line. If the one he is climbing breaks- he is dead. 2. Looks like the climbing line in attached to an external block at the top of the mast- that pulley breaks, or the attaching shackel (or pin falls out)- climber is dead.  

Not my video. But, having used the ATN Mastclimber, I can say: 1. there's no reason not to rig a backup line - we did, worked fine, but there were two of us there. Alone, I'm not sure how you'd do it; 2. Used the main halyard to go up the stick so unless you haven't maintained that part of your system then given that the main is way more loaded than the 180-odd lbs of the climber in question, you'll be just fine. Any bosun's chair is using a halyard to get up the stick. The difference in the Mastclimber is that one ties off the halyard and rappels up the halyard, rather than hauling the halyard itself up.  

I am just pointing out the safety issues I see in a vedors video no less. I agree your equipment should be in good shape. However I looked again at this vedor video and the climber is using a block supported by a shackle- How do you inspect this shackle without climbing the mast- it is impossible (unless you use the internal mast haylard- so why use the external block at all? Surprised a vedor would post such a video with such safety errors. Personally I have mast steps, then I tie off using a safety harness- this is in my opinion still not a safe method to go up the mast. If one of my steps breaks (held by pop rivets) I am depending on a chest harness to stop me- the 3 foot free fall will probably break my ribs and then sufficate me. I am looking for a better system, but the vedors video shows a system less safe than mine IMO. Granted the mast climber could be made more safe by using back up line and internal haylard. So lets back up and look at what a professionally trained rock climber would use to go up a mast. Any out there? How do you inspect your equipment and how would you rig safety back up lines to scale a sailboat rig?  

Multi- see zz's and goats posts about using ascenders and a gri gri (and a comfortable big wall harness). Takes some work to get up there but this is a good way to do it.  

I also use the ATN Mastclimber and love it. I use the main halyard for the rig, and when I can I have a friend belay me using the spinnaker halyard....when I'm alone I use a separate ascender on the spinnaker halyard as a safety.  

This is a good article: Mast Climbing Note that he reviews the ATN Topclimber, not the newer (different climbing hardware, same chair) Mastclimber. I have the Mastclimber and it works well for me. I almost always have someone belay me on a backup line (climb the jib halyard and use the spin halyard for backup) just in case something goes wrong. I know that the Mastclimber is expensive, but it doesn't end up being that much more than the recommended climbing hardware and it is a no brainer solution.  

I worked as a rigger for a while. I recommend the Brion Toss video Going Aloft . I don't think I have ever attained that level of professionalism. If you really want to avoid single points of failure you need a harness (for the safety line) and a chair (for the main line). We rarely did that. Time is important. If you spend too long up the stick you will have reduced blood circulation in your legs which can have serious implications. There have been times I have gone up without a safety line. Sometimes there simply is no option. Avoid shackles - use knots. Learn to tie them yourself (when I was a rigger we had one guy that couldn't tie a bowline to save his life - think about that). If there must be a shackle mouse it and tape it. With good shoes tied on tightly you can get a good boost from your legs and make do with a 2:1 line by yourself. If a creaky old guy like me can do it you can also. If you do have help you should consider yourself an active participant, not a passenger. You'll get up a lot faster if you help. The very best solution is an electric winch.  

Thanks to all. The boat came with 3 bosun's chairs, one of which is really nice. I was hoping to go with double blocks, which I would use once to go up the mast (I have a list of things to do), and then install permanently off my traveler ends. Just being cost conservative, or cheap I guess. But buying that much extra rope doesn't make a lot of sense. Purchasing the ATN Mastclimber without chair makes the most sense for me. I will just have a grinder for my safety rope attached to a harness. Also a short rope for tying off around the spreaders while I untie and tie the safety rope at the spreaders.  

I don't use block and tackle. I use klemheist knots--similar to prusicks but I like them better--in 2 loops of 3/8" utility line from a rock-climbing store. The knots work as well as mechanical ascenders, and cost nothing. Make each loop out of about 4 feet of line, with doubled fishermans knots. I use a Petzl mid-grade rock climbing harness that I can sit comfortably in and cost $60.00 on sale. I made foot stirrups out of nylon webbing. You need to be able to stand up with your feet in the stirrups and the center of the webbing reaching higher than your waist. Also attach the foot stirrups together about a foot apart so it's easy to keep you feet beside the mast. The stirrup webbing attaches to #1 loop/klemheist knot, and the harness to #2 via a carabiner. Capture the foot stirrup webbing inside the same carabiner to keep it close to your body. Sit in the harness and lift your feet. Slide knot #1 up a taught halyard. Stand in the stirrups, slide knot #2 up. Repeat. Think like an inch worm. A third loop on another halyard makes a safety line, though I'm too reckless and irresponsible for that sissy stuff (joke). You need to be able to do a few knee-bends and sit-ups but I'm >60 and don't have any trouble with the system. I've been up my 40' mast 4 or 5 times, at first just to try out the gear, then to fix a broken wind sensor. As long as you can trust your halyard (and if you can't you probalby need new ones) and you're using rope and webbing made for rock climbing, you're safe. It's a simple, compact system with long precedent in rock climbing. Enjoy the view. John V.  

Attachments

Here's the advantage of a gaff rigged boat. Just hook the bosun's chair to one of the halyards, and up you go. If I need to go up the mizzen, which is marconi, without block and tackle on the halyard, I just run the main sheet up on the mizzen halyard, and use that. The main halyards and the main sheet all are 4:1 mechanical advantage.  

I've been using the Mast Mate. It's similar to a canvas ladder raised by the main halyard. It has lugs that ride on the sail track, so I first need to remove the main from the track (only takes a couple minutes.) What I like about the Mast Mate is that it's pretty intuitive: just climb it like a ladder. For backup I use a harness with two carabiners. One carabiner has a line attached to the spare halyard with a klemheist knot, and the other has a line that loops around the mast once I get above the spreaders. I've been using a swiss seat (improvised harness made from 12 ft of line) for the harness, but I just bought a rock climbing harness for the next trip up the mast. Before I bought the harness, the only piece of climbing-specific gear required was the Mast Mate and the carabiners. My goal is to make the climb without maintaining a death grip on the mast. I haven't achieved that yet.  

When using the ATN top climber, I set a second halyard and rigged a safety line from the bosun chair to the second halyard with a prussic sliding knot. Slows you down but improves safety. John  

The sliding knot is genius! Prusik Knot | How to tie the Prusik Knot | Climbing Knots Unfortunately, I do not have a spinnaker halyard, so I have just one halyard on each side of the mast. Time for the really dumb question- How do I get around the spreaders using the jib and main halyards while using the prusik knot?  

I have a similar situation and what we do is attach the safety line using a caribiner. When you reach the spreader, the safety line is unclipped then quickly clipped in above the spreader. The process is reversed on the way down. It creates a few seconds of exposure, where you rely on the main halyard only but I typically accept that level of risk knowing what I do of my gear. If I were unwilling to accept even this level of exposure, I could rig a sling around the mast and spreaders to provide redunancy while the safety line was being moved.  

That Prusik knot looks like the best method. I have herd others scratch their mast using the assenders, and the Prusik is cheap and readily made. One question on climbing. What type of rope do you use for the Prusik and the rope you are climbing? Can you use yacht rope for the prusik, or are you better off going to a climbing store and buying rope made for climbing? What "Working Load" should one use for the Prusik and climbing rope? If you use a haylard to climb, what minimum working load should be used? Is there a difference in "climbing rope" and the rope you buy at say West Marine? Thanks  

I have stay set x for halyards. Put the climber on the main and the Prussic on the jib. Both are 3/8 inch. Did not use any braided eyes or shackles, just a bowline on bitter end of the main and used the jib winch to make taught. John  

I use 7mm cordelettes to make Prusik cords for use on my 7/16 halyard safety line. In general, Prusik cords work better (provide better grip) if the cord is smaller than the line it is attached to. Same sized cordage will work, but not as well. Cordelettes are available in lots of places, including Amazon.  

Prussik knlts are appealing because they are cheap and light. As a former mountain climber, I would like to point out that the Prussik knot is a type of "friction knot." In the climbing world, they are part of the emergency tool kit. BUT, there is a gotcha: If it slips too much too fast, it can generate high heat locally causing failure in the ascending rope or the prusik line.  

Another thought about knots vs mechanical climbers made for rock climbing: rock climbers or cavers might travel hundreds of feet up a vertical rope, and need something they can easily operate with one hand. And they commonly make use of Prusiks and Klemheists too. We only have to climb a few dozen feet at most and our systems allow two hands to manipulate a knot. So for sailors' infrequent vertical forays, mechanical ascenders seem extravagant to me.  

A lot of good info on this thread but no one mentioned ratlines. Boat specific but fits the older classic. I was into my 70's when I last fided my 20 ft topmast complete with roller furl .No big deal.  

I like the idea of ratlines and f I had to gp up the mast a lot, like to be able to scout out the bottom from the spreaders, I'd seriously consider them. I like the idea of them, as well as the traditional look. But for climbing once a season at most, they don't seem worth it to me, especially since they won't get you to the masthead. I volunteered one summer on a replica of the Half Moon. Ratlines get real spooky on the old boats when they reverse away from the mast to pass outboard of the crows nests. I don't know how they did it in rough seas on a tall mast. Definately pre-OSHA technology.  

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• Digital edition

Mast climbing for shorthanded crews

• Katy Stickland
• July 1, 2020

Professional skipper Simon Philips shares his method for mast climbing safely and confidently with only one other crewmember aboard

While large crews have lots of manpower to send someone aloft, small crews can still do it safely

Mast climbing is a skill some sailors love to put into practice, while others, even seasoned professional yachtsmen, loathe the dizzying heights involved in even the simplest of mast-top maintenance tasks, writes Simon Philips.

Modern yachts, often with precious little in the way of steps to climb, in most cases rely on a safe system of lines to get up and down the mast, which can be pretty daunting.

No matter whether you are mast climbing to change a bulb in the tricolour on a windless day alongside in a marina, or freeing up a jammed line that’s much more critical out at sea, having a routine that’s well practiced is at the heart of making mast climbing safe and stress free.

Large crews can easily hoist someone aloft, but it is still possible for small crews

Practice and preparation is key.

Getting familiar with the techniques and equipment will mean you’re better equipped 
to go aloft should the need arise at sea, which will inevitably be when you least expect it.

When I train round-the-world yacht race
 crews on their 70ft yachts, ideally there are
 seven people involved, just to hoist one 
up the mast.

I have two separate halyards involved and I have two people on a grinder, 
two people tailing (one per winch), two people
 on the clutches and one person watching the person going aloft who tells everyone what 
to do.

This way, there is a great safety margin involved.

But even when shorthanded, it’s still possible to go climb the mast safely.

1 Prepare to mast climb

Ensure the person going aloft has all they need with them

Prepare the person going aloft.

They should have shoes rather than bare feet, a comfortable bosun’s chair
 or climbing harness, and a helmet (cycling, skiing or kayaking) to help prevent head injuries.

Take a smartphone, so a photo
 can be sent to someone on the deck if necessary, saving a second hoist, and 
put your basic tools in the pocket of the bosun’s chair.

Ideally, all loose items should be attached by lanyards so that they can’t be dropped on to the deck

Using two halyards is a must to ensure the safety of the person aloft.

Decide which is the primary halyard and which is the safety halyard.

Use only halyards that are internal to the mast, like a headsail or mainsail halyard, as these go into the mast around 6-8ft off the deck and exit near the top.

Never use external halyards – if the block at the masthead fails then you’ll be freefalling on to the deck.

For an alternative method of using two halyards, but only winching one, you can read about and watch the video of this safe method in our practical guide to climbing a mast solo and double handed. 

3 Get comfortable

Get in the chair and bounce in it just 
off the deck to ensure it is comfortable and adjusted correctly.

Tie bowlines through the lifting part of the harness.

Never rely on a shackle as this may come undone or fail.

Once you’ve done this with both halyards, you’re set to go.

Hoisting the person can be tiring work.

The person aloft can assist greatly by pulling themselves up, but care must be taken to stay safely in the chair or harness.

Keep three turns on the winch and a clutch closed on the primary halyard.

This halyard has their full weight on it at all times.

5 Safety line

As you’re hoisting, stop every couple of metres or so and pull in the slack of the safety line and secure. See alternative double handed mast climbing method of using a prusik line on a static halyard made off at the mast base. 

This 
should also be through a clutch and on a
 winch.

If this is not possible, make the lead
 fair to a cleat and secure.

6 Secure aloft

When they are at the desired height, tension the safety line by hand and secure both lines.

On the winch, use a tugboat hitch and move away from the mast 
in case they drop something.

7 Flake the halyard

While they are up the mast, flake out
 both of the halyards so these can run free when they’re being lowered.

8 Lower away

Lowering can be tricky unless you 
have the correct amount of friction
 in the lines – both primary and safety lines.

Ideally, the person being lowered would like to be lowered smoothly all the way down.

Having too much friction on the lines results 
in having to ease by hand on the winch, which bounces them all the way down.

The number
 of turns will depend upon the size of the winch, the make of the winch (some manufacturers’ winches have more friction than others), and
 the type and diameter of the halyard used.

It’s likely to be at least two or three turns.

Lower as smoothly as possible, always keeping an eye on what’s going on above you

Lower them hand over hand for the smoothest journey down.

The man aloft pulls through a couple of metres of one of the lines, the person on deck secures it, then eases the other halyard until both halyards are tight.

Repeat this process
 until they are on deck, keeping an eye on them all the way down.

Gear for going aloft

Well-chosen gear that will keep you safe and comfortable.

A helmet can protect you from serious injury

A helmet is never a bad idea for going aloft
 when alongside or at anchor, but it is a must
 in any kind of seaway as one wave swinging 
you into the rigging could cause serious injury.

Lightweight climbing
 or kayaking models that also protect the side of the head are ideal but a bike helmet will also do.

Ensure the chinstrap is short and any excess is tucked in to prevent it getting caught in anything whilst aloft.

Available for under £25, a helmet is a worthwhile part of your boat’s kit.

For helmet options and other safety climbing gear we have a smart buyers guide. 

Mast ladder

A mast-climbing ladder can be invaluable, taking the strain off the crew on deck. Credit: Colin Work

One popular addition amongst shorthanded cruisers to their mast-climbing kit is a ladder.

Available in various forms, they are particularly helpful in taking the strain out of getting someone aloft, allowing the crewmember going up the mast to gain purchase themselves.

A climbing ascender can be used in an emergency. Check that the model you are using is designed for the diameter of your halyard. Credit: Colin Work

Ascenders are an alternative method of climbing a single rope.

Ideal for singlehanded sailors, they can also be used 
in tandem.

This is a useful bit of emergency kit that can also be connected to your second line 
to provide a safety line that isn’t dependent on the crew on deck

Things to avoid going aloft

• Never use a halyard that’s routed through
 an external block running outside the mast
• Avoid old halyards and those showing any sign of chafing or wear
• Shackles or quick-release karabiners 
should not be used. Always tie directly
 into the harness or bosun’s chair to
 ensure there is one less point of failure
• Never go aloft in a harness that doesn’t
 sit tight above your hips

Bosun’s chair or harness?

The traditional piece of kit to haul someone aloft is a bosun’s chair.

Most designs have a central tie point that’s in line with the sternum when loaded.

Chairs are generally more comfortable than their harness counterparts, due to how they spread the load and the more relaxed seating position, ideal when you’re embarking on a big job up
 the mast that will keep you there for a while.

Even the most basic bosun’s chair is more comfortable than a harness

The chair you buy should be purpose-built
 for use on yachts and deep enough in the seat
 to ensure you feel safe and comfortable.

The work you are doing up the mast shouldn’t take you out of the seat as, unlike a climbing harness, a bosun’s chair won’t keep you secure if you end up inverted; most designs rely on the user’s weight to be safe.

If you are going to take your own weight out of the seat aloft, on a mast step or spreaders for example, be sure to use a harness.

More expensive models generally offer more padding and pockets

Chairs vary in design and suit different body shapes – be sure to try before you buy.

A pocket for tools, preferably with a flap
 to keep contents secure, is very useful.

Any
 items you put in trouser pockets will probably 
be hard to access once in the seat, whilst drawing anything from a pocket that’s not vertically opening is asking for the item to be dropped.

For larger items, attach a bucket on a rope, ensuring it doesn’t interfere with the lines holding you aloft.

Simon Phillips has cruised and raced over 325,000 miles, including 34 Atlantic crossings

Anything dangerous if dropped should be secured with a lanyard, whilst heavy loads should be supported by their own halyard.

A climbing harness is the alternative option 
to a bosun’s chair, although they are less flexible on body size and it’s crucial that the harness fits; climbing harnesses are designed to hold the wearer secure above the hips.

Allowing more freedom of movement in exchange for less comfort, harnesses are ideal for going up the mast at sea.

Some professional models secure the upper body as well and even include a seat that can be dropped down when in position aloft.

Both harnesses and bosun’s chairs should 
be stored clean and dry to prevent degradation of the material.

If you enjoyed reading this, you may also like:

A buyers guide to mast climbing gear and practical expert method for single handed mast climbing

7 mast climbing kits on test

12 Bosuns chairs tested

How to climb a mast safely at sea with Pip Hare

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Which is the best way to go up the mast.

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