double ender yacht

• Sort Designs
• Site Upgrades
• Alajuela 33
• Alajuela 38
• Anastasia 32
• Andromeda 48
• Baba 40 Pilothouse
• Birdwatcher II
• CatFisher 28
• Cheoy Lee 43 MS
• Cheoy Lee 53
• Colin Archer Finnish Pilot Boat
• Corbin 39 CC
• Crealock 34
• Crealock 37
• Crealock 44
• CT-44 Pilothouse
• Dartsailor 27
• Dartsailor 30
• Dreadnought 32
• Fairey Fisherman 27
• Fales 32 Navigator
• Fales 38 Explorer
• Fantasia 35
• Fast Passage 39
• Finnclipper 34
• Finnsailer 29
• Finnsailer 35
• Fisher 30 MS
• Fisher 34 MS
• Fisher 37 MS
• Flying Dutchman 12
• Gale Force 34
• Hallberg-Rassy 94 Kutter
• Halman Horizon
• Hans Christian 33
• Hans Christian 36
• Hans Christian 38 MKII
• Hans Christian 38T
• Hans Christian 41
• Hans Christian 43
• Hans Christian 48
• Knud Aage Nielsen Snow Star
• Landfall 39
• Lapworth 50
• LM Mermaid 315
• Lord Helmsman
• Lord Nelson 35
• Lord Nelson 41
• Midget 15'
• Minstrel 23
• Montagu Whaler
• Monterey Clipper
• Nauticat 33
• Nauticat 331
• Nimble 25 Arctic
• Nimble Kodiak 24
• Nor'Sea 27
• Nor'Sea 37
• Norselander 53
• North Sea 33
• Offshore 39
• Offshore 43
• Offshore 45
• Pacific Seacraft 25-1
• Pacific Seacraft 34
• Pacific Seacraft 37
• Pacific Seacraft 40
• Pacific Seacraft 44
• Pacific Seacraft Pilothouse 40
• Passagemaker 33
• Passport 42
• Passport 51
• Puget Sound Daysailer
• Quickstep 24
• Redningsskoyte
• Rhodes Design #1600
• Rossiter Pintail
• Roughwater 33
• Sakonnet 23
• Scanyacht 290
• Sea Eagle 31
• Sea Pearl 28
• Seaforth 24
• Searaker 28
• Southern Cross 28
• Southern Cross 31
• Southern Cross 32
• Southern Cross 35
• Southern Cross 39
• Storfidra 25
• Sun Seeker 23
• Tahiti Ketch
• Tashiba 36 Pilothouse
• Tiffany Jane 34
• Traveller 32
• True North 34
• Vagabond 31
• Vagabond 39
• Valiant 40 Pilothouse
• Valiant 42RS
• Vancouver 25
• Vancouver 36
• Vancouver 42
• Victoria 26
• Victoria 30
• Viksund 31 Goldfish MS
• Vineyard Vixen 29
• Vineyard Vixen 34
• Watson 19.5
• Watson 31.5
• Watson 34.5
• Weatherly 32
• Westsail 28
• Westsail 32
• Westsail 42
• Westsail 43
• Willard 30/8T
• Young Sun 35
• Young Sun 43
• Adventurous
• Barca Verde
• Big Adventure
• Bladerunner
• Celestial Melody
• Charity Rose
• De Vrouwe Christina
• Eagles Quest
• Emerald Mistress
• Fascination
• FRANCIS LEE
• Golden Hour
• Imagine 2012
• Kleinkapitalist
• Little Wing
• Loose Cannon
• Magic Dragon
• Maitresse de Mer
• Montagu Whaler 536
• Morning Light
• Mystic Voyager
• Northern Light
• Ramblin Rose
• RS 1 Colin Archer
• RS 6 Nordland
• s/v Veritas
• Sea Anemone
• Sea Biscuit
• Sea Sisters
• Sherri Lynn
• Small Wonder
• Speculation
• Star Chaser
• Three Quarter Time
• Trustworthy
• Wandering Star
• Wave Dancer
• Wind Dancer
• W. Aarnipalo
• Eivind Amble
• Bent Juul Andersen
• Carl Andersson
• Colin Archer
• William Atkin
• Daniel J. Avoures
• Jay R. Benford
• Bruce Bingham
• Phillip Bolger
• Peter Bruun
• Wendell H. Calkins
• Terry Compton
• William Crealock
• Robert Dufour
• Olle Enderlein
• Joe Fennell
• William Garden
• Thomas Gillmer
• Thomas Hale
• Trygve Halvorsen
• John G. Hanna
• Robert B. Harris
• George S. Hawn, Jr.
• L. Francis Herreshoff
• Lyle C. Hess
• Alan F. Hill
• Eva Hollman
• C. Raymond Hunt
• Stan Huntingford
• Harwood Ives
• Ron Johnson
• John Kaiser, Sr.
• Paul R. Kotzebue
• Bill Lapworth
• Arvid Laurin
• Dick Lefeber
• B. Malta-Muller
• Henry Mohrschladt
• Ed Monk, Sr.
• Palle Mortensen
• Knud Aage Nielsen
• Lars Olof Norlin
• Chuck Paine
• Robert Perry
• Angus Primrose
• Knud Reimers
• Philip Rhodes
• Raymond Richards
• Hugh Rossiter
• Stephen Seaton
• Grahame Shannon
• Robert Slater
• Scott Sprague
• Charles Street
• Ron Swanson
• Yves-Marie de Tanton
• David Thomas
• Reuben Trane
• Turun Veneveistramo
• Erling Viksund
• Michael Volmer
• Willem de Vries-Lentsch
• Gordon R. Wyatt

All Designers

All vessels, all designs.

Select a Designer

Select a Vessel

Sail Far Live Free

Double enders according to perry (guest post by bob perry).

• Sailboat Rigs According to Perry (Guest post by Bob Perry)
• Split Rigs According to Perry (Guest post by Bob Perry)
• Keels According to Perry (Guest post by Bob Perry)
• Top Ten Affordable Bluewater Sailboats
• Go Small, Go Now: 5 Pocket Cruisers to Take You Anywhere
• 50 Years of Cruising Sailboat Evolution by Ted Brewer
• Bluewater on a Budget: 5 Budget Cruisers for Crossing Oceans

I drove by Oceanus almost daily in a local yard. A very unique and beautiful boat. Unfortunately I was witness to her destruction by an excavator. The owner could not afford the insurance, yard fees, let alone the restoration. One of the most depressing sights I have ever witnessed.

Hi Bob, Loved the directness of your comments. Great to have you "de-mythologize" the double ender while making a point that I think is really important. Aesthetics matter: you own your boat to make you happy - and having the "prettiest fanny in the anchorage", the boldest bow or most elegant sheer or whatever turns your crank may just win out over the apparent logic of some other design choice. All the best from sailboat Wabi.

Well you have a point squatting at the stern slower etc etc. The way I see it the problem is getting the water flow to cleanly cleave off the stern not sucking the boat back or clinging on and climbing up the stern causing drag. My plans are doomed or are they. I remember seeing a valiant in a yachting magazine back in the day probably 1973 and thinking oh my God that is gorgeous one day I will have a boat like that. To find out that double enders are no good or in some way deficient is like discovering Santa (Saint Nicolas)isn't real. After seeing that boat I developed a disliking for transoms I don't like the way the lines of a boat flow beutifully and come that snap finnish. Here is my defence of a rounded stern: pionted structures whatever they are create stress pionts curved structures dissipate stresses eg. an egg. one good point. A lot of these boats are heavy full keel designs deep boats make deep waves, big drag but they don't have to be deep full keel jobs, if the stern runs flatter on the bottom I believe the water flow will cleave away better and the boat will be faster eg surfboards. I would also take issue with the idead that a boat should be pointy a the bow mayby and mayby not (complaints about V berths being small). I can't find the videos but have seen a skutsji being towed at 22 knotts, level and bolt upright in the water and I have also seen a tjalk being sailed at 11 knotts these things are fast. So what is my solution yet again the lemateraak.

Thanks for article. I'm no expert but canoe butts were built long ago when wood was fashioned; enabling strength of joins. I'm about to buy a canoe stern cruising yacht, for many reasons I'm going for a slower old girl design although she's of modern build. 1. We used to race Dragons and although the same weight, length and sail area of Etchell; Dragons loved the horsepower. Our last race was a rough one. Committee 40' power launch was with fear of capsize so start finish was routed to harbour Lee water. She was rough. Although we were juniors, we asked slip master if race cancellation suggestion was because of us and our open top sinkers if swamped but we're told race committee was with more concern regarding welfare of Etchell fleet, they'd be struggling. We didn't finish race. Only race we didn't finish. Collision at sea took out our shroud yet we launched without pop and hiked in on screaming reach with all colours. In a mad hurry because collision had paralyzed my forehand; lost muscle usage for 28 hrs. People that say long keelers don't plane don't understand high rythym and reflex. They plane gorgeously, just a bit loose and ready to spin like a ballerina. Without wide aft we have gone from balancing on a spear to balance upon a ball and turn can be substituted by yaw pitch. Ironic is sailing. Other choices of vessels included nice faster vessels with more volume aft. Eg 2 extra cabins and lots of extra space. Yet to stow brings slow whilst with older style of less volume, extra weight is loved as ballast. Some of my more or less experienced friends have never balanced an old bird, some have but went back to modern skiffing yachts. Way I see it is 100+ years ago there were no rescue boats, if you were caught out you battled for knots until blow had blown over or you rode something built for offshore and danced with a smile. We cruised a vertical tapered keel with spade for years. Almost outrun a 4 day 70 knot blow, were exhausted during 3 hours of ol' ship anyone spotted entrance yet. Yet with 1950s race boat, always full sail area. 2 mast positions; high and low. High during light wind, low during moderate, high again above 20knots because unlike modern designs, older designs usually have ability to discard excess horsepower and when she's blowing there's plenty of excess discard ratio to balance vessel with. Wider arts however want horsepower which is why they're are usually a lot faster but forcing horsepower is great during lesser conditions for lessons of less ons. Mother nature well above our strengths.. nice to feel our way sometimes.

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog, top 10 favorite affordable bluewater sailboats, go small and go now 5 pocket cruisers to take you anywhere.

Escape to the Sea: How to get from the Great Lakes to the Caribbean

39′ Double-Ender

Heyman Yachts

Nothing ordinary

Why a double-ender? – Traditions behind the 39’ Pavane

This double-ender stems from a type of coastal fishing boats which were common in Scandinavian waters during the past centuries. It would be much too far-fetched to claim that they are all descendants to the long-boats of the Vikings, but in fact I guess this is where they have their roots. However, over the centuries, they have developed in different directions.

On the Swedish west coast and in Norway, the double-enders, called ‘koster’, had a dramatically full bow and a rather slender stern. The smaller boats were clinker built, had outboard rudders and were used as coastal fishing boats, later equipped with engines. The larger ones were often carvel built. A somewhat refined variety of the west coast koster are the ones later developed by Colin Archer into his hefty rescue boats, ‘redningsskøyte’.

In Denmark and the southermost parts of Sweden, the double-enders had very different proportions, with full-bodied sections aft, making them more buoyant. With their more balanced shape forward and aft, the spidsgatters balanced well when heeled and were able to take a storm on their quarters without being pooped. The lines of spidsgatters were a little more ‘yachty’ in appearance, they were most often carvel built and usually a little quicker as well.

There were two different kinds of sterns, characterised by their rudder arrangements. The most common was the outboard rudder which was always used for the smaller boats. The more unusual ‘kanothäck’ or canoe stern had the rudder post pass through the hull. This arrangement was used for some of the bigger double-ended workboats but even then it was rare, until a hundred or so years ago, when canoe sterns started to appear in two vastly different types of double-enders: In bigger fishing boats and trawlers, and in yachts. Canoe stern yachts of a similar kind were also somewhat popular in Britain and, to some extent, in Germany but – dare I say so – they were never as lovely as the Danish ones.

The inspiration for the 39’ Pavane stems from these lovely, wholesome spidsgatters and Øresundskosters of the southern Baltic, with a side look to early/mid-1900s yachts by the likes of Berg, Reimers and Aage Nielsen. Personally, I think her traditional lines above the waterline go together extremely well with her modern hull shape under the surface – a happy marriage of styles and shapes, separated by a century.

39′ hull #2

A modern, slippery cruising yacht

This design should be equally at home on a mooring on the Clyde, in Newport or in Cannes. She is intended to be a manageable boat, able to sneak in almost anywhere. Under sail, she will provide fast passages, averaging between 7 and 8 knots on all points of sailing but at the same time, will be seaworthy and well behaved.

Cruising life is changing. I guess most people think of cruising as heading for another shore, exploring new anchorages. But cruising could just as well mean day sailing to a familiar port, visiting a nice restaurant, meeting friends. And while many crews consist of a couple, most will also want to invite friends or children to join them for a week or two. And, even with only two on board, most people will want some basic comfort, and stay in contact with the world beyond.

Therefore, I believe a proper cruising boat will be one that her owners will never find too cramped, too slow, too cranky or too limited. She will have to offer much more than just being a good sailing boat for two.

Still, at below 40 ft., and being of moderate proportions, this design will be easily handled. But this is not about size only. It is perhaps more about clever use of space, a long water line, an efficient hull shape, and about avoiding unnecessary weight or complication.

There is another aspect to the matter of size and cost:

The earlier 36′ design

The cost of a boat will be a function of its weight. But the cost of building a one-off will also be a function of its surface areas, as all surfaces are finished by hand. Comparing, for example, a 30 ft one-off with a 39 ft., the bigger boat will have 70 % more surface to finish but she will offer 110% more space. For a one-off, the slightly bigger boat, not too heavy, is more cost-efficient.

Provided, again, that she is designed to make efficient use of her size.

The design for this 39′ yawl was finished in 2012 and was developed from a 36′ sloop, designed some 12 years earlier. This lovely yacht is a one-off build, made from strip planking and sheathed in multi-directional glass and epoxy.

Under water

A full keel was avoided for simplicity, cost, and speed. But it should be noted that this does not make her inferior in terms of safety, or steering. In addition, the fin keel makes manouvering easier.

OK, but why a yawl rig?

39′ Yawl Rig

By definition, this rig would probably be called a ketch but the sail plan is that of a yawl. The distinction between yawl and ketch is based on the mast position in relation to the rudder stock; this is the formal definition. But considering the sail plan proportions of this particular design, with its smallish mizzen set far aft, I have chosen to call her a yawl.

The mizzen mast is unstayed, the mizzen is tiny and contributes nothing on the wind. On the other hand, it is not really in the way either. On a reach, it gives a little extra push, especially with the staysail set. When anchoring or approaching a mooring, it keeps the bow into the wind, even at zero speed. And in a sudden blow, one can romp along under a deep-reefed jib + mizzen.

36′ earlier design

The helmsman sits aft and the forward part of the cockpit, if you like, is for enjoying the day, eating, reading – or sleeping. The starboard seat is extended a little further forward, leading to the entrance.

Inside, there is a big hanging locker and a navigation table. Rounding the central island, one enters the galley. There is good contact with the cockpit through the entrance hatch and the opening portlight on the port side. The engine is accessible from all sides, under the galley sink, and the fridge is opposite, under the navigation table.

The aft cabin is unusual for a boat with an aft cockpit and is intended as the owner’s cabin, laid out for a couple. There is standing headroom, one can sit down on the berth and move about in a dignified manner.

There is stowage for two folding bicycles behind the backrests in the main cabin.

The forward cabin will accommodate guests without disturbing the owners. But, during periods when the yacht is used by its owners only, this area can be used for other purposes, for stowage, or as an office.

Construction

36′ previous design

A strip planked red cedar hull is encapsulated in multidirectional glass and epoxy, making for a light, strong and durable structure. Alternatively, a Divinycell foam-cored construction has its merits.

• L.O.A.                                          12,00 m     39,4′
• D.W.L.                                         10,73 m     35,2′
• Beam, maximum                           3,46 m       11,4′
• Beam, waterline                            2,89 m         9,5′
• Draft                                             1,64 m         5,4′
• Displacement, light                        7200 kg      15860 lbs
• Ballast                                          2600 kg        5730 lbs
• Sail area 100%                              76,8 m²      827 sq.ft.
• True sail area                                83,5 m²      899 sq.ft
• Mainsail, true area                      41,0 m²      441 sq.ft.
• Jib, true area                                 33,9 m²      365 sq.ft.
• Mizzen, true area                            8,6 m²        93 sq.ft.
• Gennaker                                          74 m²         797 sq.ft.
• Mizzen staysail                               24 m²         258 sq.ft.
• D/L                                                  165
• SA/D, upwind                              20,6
• SA/D, downwind                          48,7
• Entry angle                                     14,7 °

AVS                                                 131 °

Downflooding                               102 °

CE Category                                 A (Ocean)

• << Yacht design

24′ Double-ended voyager CAROL

QUEEN BEE was built in Sydney, Australia.

FOR A VIDEO that shows the CAROL’s sailing qualities, click here:

CAROL is in many ways my favorite pocket cruiser— a scaled-down and flatter-deadrise version of my popular  FRANCES .  She evokes an adventurous spirit that prevailed in the happy times of the late ‘70s when I designed her. At 24 feet she’s as small as a prudent sailor would ever think of taking to sea. CAROL is the ultimate in making do with less. Her hull is stable and easily driven, and her rig is simple and powerful. She can sail close to her hull speed of six knots when conditions are favorable, making for good sailing in moderate conditions.  While no boat of this size can truthfully be termed comfortable in the open ocean, CAROL ‘s crew are at least free of great concern for her safety, or their own. With her small self draining cockpit well, raised deck, centerline hatches and strong self-righting tendency she is as seaworthy as the proverbial corked bottle. Her clear decks make it easy to handle her gear, and the recessed deck forward offers the crew security where it is needed most.

I designed CAROL in 1979 and something like twenty have been built so far all over the world. Thanks to her beautifully crafted building plans, anyone willing to work hard and with good carpentry skills can aspire to sailing over the horizon in something of high intrinsic value that they built themselves. With her very high quality of specified construction and perfected double-ender aesthetics she is a true legacy yacht, whose appeal will endure for generations. She’s neither easy nor cheap to build, though— fair warning.

HARRIET ROSE sails out of Chichester, UK.

JEANNETTE was built near Victoria, BC. Now she sails on Monterey Bay, CA.

The interior arrangement is intended for two persons. They may share the double berth forward in harbor, or the off-watch partner can choose the leeward quarter berth when at sea. There is just the minimum sitting headroom in this design― indeed this was the pivotal factor that determined the overall size of this minimalist yacht. The design provides a place for the cook to sit, and a toilet to avoid having to go on deck for this necessity. A sea hood fitted over the companionway provides a place to stand up for pulling on one’s pants, at least when the weather permits you to open the hatch.

CAROL as originally designed had no auxiliary power, a pair of oars being shown for getting her home in a calm or maneuvering through a quiet anchorage. Quite a few have been fitted with small diesels, though, an idea that can be life-saving in difficult conditions and a lot easier than rowing when the wind fails.

A CAROL hull under construction.

You laminate the cold- molded hull upside down. The deadwood is added once it is finished.

CAROL is narrow enough to trailer legally over the road in the USA, though at her weight she requires a lift or railway to haul and launch and a crane to step her mast. She was engineered to be built in WEST system cold-molded construction. She was designed in the hippie years, with many young people seeing the wonders of the world living in a tent. Quite a few more, who thought it fun, bought books on WEST system construction and saw the wonders of the sea living in a CAROL. You could too!

Note the varnished seatbacks, which make the cockpit very comfortable.

There’s lots of laminating to do.

Many variations have been built. JUNO LUCINA hails from the UK, and has been fitted with a small trunk cabin.

Bee fits very nicely into the cabin of her eponymously named yacht.

This design is featured in both of my recent books; MY YACHT DESIGNS and the Lessons they taught me, and THE BOATS I’VE LOVED— 20 Classic Sailboat Designs by Chuck Paine. Both are beautiful, full colored, first class books which give you lots more information on this design, and can be purchased on this website.

Study plans are available emailed to you in pdf format for US$ 25.00, Full printed plans including a full-size mylar hull lofting and right to build for US$ 3000.00

PDF Study Plans: $25

no shipping, sent via email

Further information may be obtained from:

CHUCKPAINE.COM LLC P. O. Box 114

Tenants Harbor, Maine 04860-0114 [email protected]

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• All Topics Sailing
• General Sailing Discussions
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Pros and cons for a double ender/Canoe Stern

• Add to quote

I have started the long process of buying my first sailboat. I'm trying to get it right on the first try. Yeah, I know it will not be perfect but I would like to get something that I don't dread looking at 6 months down the road. I recently found a "Top 10 Favorite Affordable Bluewater Sailboats" list. I'm sure the author of this list has his own opinions but one thing that I noticed from the list is that a lot of the boats shared a common design, they were Double Enders or Canoe Sterns. Could I get some opinions from some of you with experience concerning these designs versus a wider stern? If there has already been a thread like this that one can refer me to, please do so. A search didn't show anything. Thank-you in advance for any helpful advise you can give me.  

They look beautiful. But beyond that, I'm not sure there are really any advantages of a canoe stern/double-ender. Recall reading posts from Bob Perry asserting as much. A *huge* cone is the loss of massive amounts of space in the stern area below and a much tighter/smaller cockpit. Especially compared to modern designs that have a tendency to have a very huge stern beam and open areas of the cockpit to allow water to flow out if a wave hits ya. Canoe stern, well, I think you're relying on scuppers draining and/or downflooding the living spaces!  

Thanks for the post.. You are dead on speaking of Bob Perry. This same website that I found the 10 affordable Bluewater Sailboats list on also had an interview with Bob Perry. He designed a few but still seemed to wonder why someone would want a boat to sail in reverse. In my opinion he mainly said it was a marketing issue. Having a "dry" , safe and stable boat would be among my top priorities. Once again, Thank-You.  

Double enders have very small cockpits. They get pooped more often i.e. Waves over the back, the are old designs. There isnt much going for them as a cruiser.  

Tell that to Gary Burton .  

I am cruising with a double ender. Never been pooped so I'd love to see facts on that one Mark. Smaller cockpits, absolutely ... Just like you want in a sea going boat. Not nocking modern designs. Open transoms would drain fast, but the main reason for that design is to hold all the dock parties most of these boats do most of the time (Mark not included). Double enders are safe, secure and sensible sea boats. Best of all, they look good -- not like some motorboat wannabe ;-)  

My friend has a canoe stern, and he was extolling the virtues of that design to me at some point. I, of course, promptly forgot what they were because his boat's WAY out of my financial and experiential leagues so the info didn't stick into my admittedly "Need-to-know" based brain. I'll probably talk to him today while we're out on the water and I'll ask him again. May have had something to do with comfort with following seas? Barry  

bblument said: My friend has a canoe stern, and he was extolling the virtues of that design to me at some point. I, of course, promptly forgot what they were because his boat's WAY out of my financial and experiential leagues so the info didn't stick into my admittedly "Need-to-know" based brain. I'll probably talk to him today while we're out on the water and I'll ask him again. May have had something to do with comfort with following seas? Barry Click to expand...

A canoe stern is not just a canoe stern. Some of them do not have much volume aft, and might be pooped more easily than the ones with a wider behind. From reading "Yacht Design According to Perry", you'll learn that he tried giving the Valiant 40 a large a s s to ensure there was enough volume. So a Valiant probably wouldn't be pooped where a Westsail would? Other than that any boat can probably get pooped, I've certainly experienced a wave in the cockpit in confused seas in Norway.  

I apologize in advance that this is quite long and I worte it for another purpose but it is a detailed discussion of double enders which starts with a bit of history. When you look at really old double enders (Egyptian passenger barges, Viking ship, canoes, Skerry traders) you see some things in common. As a broad generality, for their era, these vessels all tended to be quite light and fast and intended to be propelled at pretty high speeds with comparatively little power. The traditional (up until the late 19th century) double ender actually had very fine ends and a burdensome mid-section. This shape was evolved for speed and seaworthiness in low powered (low stability), low volume vessels. This fine-ended double ender was a great shape for rough sea conditions. In theory, when a boat is running before breaking waves its own wake can disturb the waves astern and cause them to break. These fine-ended double enders threw smaller wakes and so were less likely to cause waves too break on them from astern. If a wave did break, the wave did not collide with the flat surface of a transom. (That is also the same reason that the transoms on traditional boats had as much rake as they did.) That all works well for light weight working craft with minimal sources of power. As these boats became more burdensome, they began to have a different set of problems. One of the key problems with the more heavily loaded fine ended double enders were that they did not have as much reserve buoyancy as transom sterned boats and waves might not break in their wake but they would get pooped (flooded from astern by overtaking wave). The Roman and medieval cargo ships, which are well known to researchers, were all double enders below and above the waterline but light displacement they most certainly were not - the cogs, shuyts and fluyts of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance were capacious, slow, cargo carriers. The reasons that these ships, and most European fishing boats until recently, be they Norwegian, Scottish, Danish, Dutch, Spanish, Maltese or Greek, are double enders are twofold; One is that this type of stern is easy, reliable, and nearly as cheap to build in wood. Another reason for the early use of double ends is that these working vessels had/have to lie alongside each other in close proximity in artificial harbors. The double ender is less likely to suffer damage from boats alongside. In such circumstances you find double enders. Elsewhere, like the Breton coast of France or the East Coast of England, where the sea conditions are just as bad, but there are natural harbors, estuaries, etc. you find transom sterns and counter sterns. The transom stern gives more buoyancy aft and is better suited to a high displacement hull, while being nearly equally cheap to build. The counter stern gives a drier after deck (important in sailing ships, which were conned from the poop) and more space for handling sails (and nets, on fishing boats) It is at that point in the 1800's that Colin Archer comes along in the search for a way to make boats that would not cause waves to break but that would also have sufficient reserve buoyancy in the ends. When you study the lines of a Colin Archer design they were really amazing. These were not delicate boats by any stretch of the imagination. They were truly beefy. They had to be. They were rescue boats and pilot boats that had to be able to stand station in the worst the North Seas had to offer and still make a rendezvous. They needed to be able to sail in light air, and they had to be able to lie against a stranded ship and take the pounding while rescuing people and property. They earned a reputation for their seaworthiness and ability to withstand the worst nature had to offer. Archer was a theorist and was looking for a way to design powerful boats with powerful rigs that would still remain balanced. Archer also had a tremendous ability to model the lines of these heavy boats so that they had a fairness of line and fineness of water line that is not readily apparent at first glance. They are deceptive boats in many ways. For all of their weight they were reasonably easily driven boats. They were capable of spreading really huge sail plans or being snugged down to a handkerchief By all descriptions that I have ever read these were not easy boats to sail. These were not the “sailed by a man and a boy” fine ended double ender epitomized by boats like the Tancock Whalers popularized in the fisheries off of Nova Scotia. They took large crews and a lot of brute strength to sail and to some extent they also survived on the iron wills of their crew. Then along comes Atkins, who takes the Colin Archer rescue boats and adapts them into yachts. Atkins like Archer is a master of the carefully modeled hull form and in many ways his “Ingrid” is the definitive example of a successful Colin Archer type yacht. Comparatively fine yet buoyant and burdensome, the 'Ingrid's are a masterful example of the art of yacht design with the emphasis on art. I keep hearing people refer to these boats as fast. They are fast for what they are, but in a relative sense, even in heavy going, they are not fast when compared to more modern designs. They also reputedly have very comfortable motions in a seaway. I suspect that that is more a product of their round bottom, and wine glass sections more than their double ends. The 'Ingrid's and 'Eric's did wonders for instilling the idea that double ended yachts represent some kind of ideal for distance cruising. This notion of the ideal was further embedded by the ubiquitous Hanna Tahiti and Gulfweed Ketches. By the late 1960’s double enders began to be viewed as relics of the past. Well-modeled double enders are not easy to mould in fiberglass since there was often some tumblehome in the stern making it hard to removed them from a single part mould. It probably would have stayed like that if the character boat craze had not gotten started in the early 1970’s. At the time the whole character boat thing was hard to fathom. After decades, suddenly bowsprits and molded in plank seams were getting popular. (If you actually owned a wooden boat you went to great lengths to conceal the seams and make the topsides look “just like fiberglass” but suddenly fiberglass boats were being built showing 'seams'.) Emerging in the early days of that period of looking backwards, the Westsail 32 came on the scene. The Westsail 32 is a fiberglass version of the Atkins ‘Eric’ altered to supply more room down below and be easier to mold in glass. The Westsail pretty quickly became an icon for the “serious Blue water cruising boat”. Derided as heavy, slow and wet, with many were bought by posers and wannabes, in reality the Westsails have proven to be enduring boats with an admirable cruising record. What the Westsails and boats like them did was to bring a focus on the growing gap between “cruiser-racers” and purpose built offshore boats. It was about that time that a young Bob Perry happened on the scene. I have always believed that Bob’s goal in designing the Valiant 40 was to design a boat that bridged this gap. Seen today the Valiant 40 seems very solid and conservative but in its day the Valiant 40 was revolutionary. If you look at the sections and underbody waterlines of the Valiant, they were remarkably far more similar to the early Sparkman and Stephens designed IOR boats (like the Tartan 41) than to anything that Colin Archer designed. Obviously a bit more burdensome, the Valiant 40 dared to be a moderate displacement (for the time) boat with a fin keel/ spade rudder intended for serious offshore cruising. I also suspect form articles that I have seen over the years that the trunk cabin and canoe stern were chosen not for some inherent obvious sailing or seakeeping advantage but as a clear statement that the Valiant 40 was and is intended as a serious offshore boat. If you look carefully at the stern of a Valiant 40 it in no ways really resembles the traditional canoe stern chosen for low wave making and low drag. This is a very powerful stern consistent with the Valiant's more modern lines and underbody. Of course for every brilliant design idea there are a bunch of bone headed copies. Having drawn a few double enders in my day, I really think that they take more skill than any other hull form to get right. Poorly done they are awkward in appearance and offer few of the advantages with all of the disadvantages of a double ender. Perry got it right, (to my eye, perhaps more so on the 37 foot Esprit), but a lot of designers never did. Designers like Garden, Benford, and Crealock have designed many a fine double ender, but I think Bob Perry was there at the right time with a design that really understood the problem and looked good doing it. So back to the original question, “What are the advantages and disadvantages of a double ender?” If the stern is not carefully modeled and matched to the other properties of the design, there are not any inherent advantages to a double ender; none at all. Properly designed in the fine-ended model, they offer a lower resistance at slow speeds, less wave making and a cleaner wake less likely to cause waves to break astern. Properly modeled in canoe stern model, they offer a lot of reserve buoyancy in the ends with a minimum stern overhang for reduced hobby horsing. They also offer less corners for lines to foul on which was far more important in the days of Gaff Rigs with booms that over hung the transom. The disadvantage is that a double enders tend top have quite a bit less room aft for their length than a transom stern boat. This means a more cramped cockpit (or aft cabin). In terms of sailing performance, with modern rigs and underbodies it is harder to get a canoe stern boat to work with modern underbodies which are designed to surf and sometimes plane. This means that they are not suitable to today’s lighter faster design principles. Its not an issue if your interest is in a heavier, more burdensome, long range cruiser but if your goal is coastal cruising or performance offshore cruising, where speed becomes more important than carrying a lot of ‘stuff’ in a short sailing length, then a canoe stern might not make sense. Canoe stern boats can be a bit more expensive to manufacture in glass as they often require special molds to handle the tumblehome in the stern. From a sailing standpoint, most double endere give away some initial stability which translates to reduced sail carrying capability and with that, the need to reduce sail sooner. Unless long and narrow, they lack the 'bearing' to achieve decent reaching and motoring speeds without the stern squatting and greatly increasing drag and fuel consumption. But also there are practical issues with a canoe stern. In a practical sense, the pinchjed ends make it harder to carry a dinghy in davits or install the type of solar arrays that are becoming increasingly popular. The loss of volume aft, makes it more difficult to carry the weight of a full sized dinghy when davits are installed. The reduction in useful deck area and interior volume result in boats which are small for their length, and are the equivillent of perhaps a 15-20% smaller boat in terms of useful space and sailing ability. At this point in time, I view the most recent crop of double enders mostly as a fashion statement. Most of us, sail the boats that we bought because we like them. We like them for all kinds of reasons, not the least of which may simply be that we like the way they look. I think that today’s double enders often carry with them a variety of features that attract a certain kind of sailor (or someone who wants to be that type of sailor). But in the end, to me, in prioitizing the criteria for choosing a long range cruising boat, the most serious consideration needs to be the practical and functional aspects of the boat in question. Aesthetics may play a role, but if the plan is to go offshore for long periods of time, that role needs be secondary. And so from that point of view, I would consider a double end a liability rather than an asset. Respectfully Jeff  

Jeff_H said: The reasons that these ships, and most European fishing boats until recently, be they Norwegian, Scottish, Danish, Dutch, Spanish, Maltese or Greek, are double enders are twofold; One is that this type of stern is easy, reliable, and nearly as cheap to build in wood. Click to expand...

Jeff_H said: Properly designed in the fine-ended model, they offer a lower resistance at slow speeds, less wave making and a cleaner wake less likely to cause waves to break astern. Click to expand...

RichH said: {in part} Pros • Heavy weight equates to MOMENTUM - good when bashing headlong into large waves. Cons • Due to large mass/weight, they do not accelerate well out a tack, especially in heavy seas - at least the ones with large powerful bow angles (less bow 'sharpness'). Click to expand...

smurphny said: The intuitive advantage of a double-ender or CCA era full keel boat is its diminished exposure of surface area to a following sea. Click to expand...

First off probably more circumnavigations have been made in "double enders" than any other hull form. The Valiant-40 followed by the Tayana-37 and 'their cousins' are still the all time leaders in this respect. Pros. • Because of the symmetrical hull form you can heel a canoe stern over onto its beam ends and have very little change in helm pressure - (good for less strain and wear & tear on the autohelm or wind vane steering.) • Most of the modern double enders (Perry, Harris et al designs) have quite adequate reserve buoyancy in the stern. • That pinched stern, mostly a stylistic form addition, cant be loaded with lots of extra weight. • Since most Double enders are cutter rigged you can meet and match wind and seastate conditions more easily than a sloop. • Since the masts on cutter rigged boats are located more closer to 40-50% LOA they can easily be sailed with 'just' a large genoa instead of reefing the main, and still 'point' reasonably well ... a good way to go tacking down wind, especially with the staysail on a clubfoot pulled out to the weather side. Cutters excel at beam reaching and broad reaching. Sloops are for 'pointing'; who the hell in their right mind intentionally goes 'pointing' in the tradewinds???? • Cockpits are quite small ... the small volume wont take on a lot of water weight and then plunge/squat and then struggle to recover from a boarding wave from astern. • Usually quite deep in the water hull forms ... they dont POUND, thus are more 'sea-kindly'. • VERY well behaved boats in F8 and above wind/wave conditions. • Immersion factor (how deep these boat sinks into the water when heavily loaded with stores, is surprisingly good) - 1200 to 1400 lb./inch of immersion. • Usually have immense stowage capacity already inbuilt. • Heavy weight equates to MOMENTUM - good when bashing headlong into large waves. Cons • Cant be easily docked stern-to nor with use of passerel type stern boarding ramps -- as is customarily done in the Med on seawalls, etc. •*Cockpits are small, ... makes for poor dockside entertainment centers. • Such boats can be extremely heavy weight; but, built to adequate scantlings and safety factors of a true 'blue water' design ... but were designed in an age when composite construction was not optimized, thus 'heavier' than 'modern'. • Usually quite deep in the water hull forms ... slow boats if sail plan not trimmed and tweaked to absolute perfection. • Cutter rigs sail plans are very difficult to optimize, tweak, etc.; the transition from sloop to cutter rig has a very high learning curve. Complexity of rig and sail plan is not 'easy' to learn, nor tweak/adjust for optimum performance output (virtually nothing is written on this subject, either) • Headsail/Staysail combo is a nightmare in varying wind strengths .... the interplay of headstay/forestay loading and the variable headstay/forestay wire stretch + sagging caused by different windstrengths ... is enough to make a grown man cry - requires more than backstay tension to 'tweak' for optimum performance output - complexity is incredible: backstay + running backstay (or intermediate shrouds) + independent forestay!!! tensions all need constant adjustment; with a sloop its usually 'just' simple backstay tension. • Below ~6-7 kts. a staysail flown under a topsail is detractive aerodynamically when on a close reach or above - IMO. • You reef 'back to front' on a cutter rig, because the combined CE is usually in the staysail - not really a con, unless you dont know this. • Usually low internal volume and narrow beam in comparison to more modern designs ... not good for 'entertaining' (but a real plus in a heavy seaway as grab-holds are ALWAYS close at hand.) • Folks who are terrorized of heeling probably should not own one. (My Ty37 'absolutely loves' 25-30° over .... but, Im a scow sailor where 25° of heel is 'the starting point') • Due to large mass/weight, they do not accelerate well out a tack, especially in heavy seas - at least the ones with large powerful bow angles (less bow 'sharpness'). • Massive heavy masts make them 'slow rollers' - generally are 'top heavy'. (Id love to put a Carbon stick on mine; but, I really like a slow rolling boat as I dont like power-puking into bilges looking for my loosened dental fillings ... ;-). ) These boats are generally 'sea-kindly'; no use being 'beat up' on a long passage and then have to rest-up for several day because of the 'beating and pounding you took' to get there 10% 'faster', especially when long distance cruising is mostly spent at anchor. Rx: That 'bustle' on a double ender is usually nothing but 'style' and that 'stern protrusion' really neither adds nor detracts from performance as its usually never IN the water (unless youre sailing stern-to all the time). If you realistically consider that most 'pinched stern' protuberances are just 'stylistic' then that extra 2 ft. should be deducted from your imaginary LOA when comparing to other designs ..... but what the hell, my double ended Perryboat is vastly 'prettier' and more 'eye pleasing' as well as 'more mannerly' than your average light-weight fat-assed sterned vomit comet. ;-) Just imagine a Valiant or Passport 40 built with a cored hull and a Carbon Fiber mast and built to modern lightweight optimized composite structure ..... would absolutely ROAR. OK, that pinched stern ... make it 'flippable' so you can open it and use it as a 'garage' for your dink.  

Just a quick thought on some double-ender cockpits. On your boat, you'll spend most of your time in the cockpit, especially in warm climates. A small cockpit will be uncomfortable and crowded when entertaining guests. Some of those double-enders like the Westsail 32 have tiny cockpits and no comfortable back rests when you're sitting in the cockpit. I'd opt for a big cockpit with comfortable seating (long enough to sleep on), a good-sized table for dining (4 to 6 people) and high backrests for sitting comfortably and then work on modifying it to drain quickly if flooded. One can always add more or enlarge existing drains or improve the companionway to prevent downflooding, but there is not much you can do with a small uncomfortable cockpit (besides change boats!). Just my 2 centavos..  

My biggest complaint about some double enders is their proclivity to hobby horse. I first noticed this when a friend purchased a 1930's Atkins Ingrid, a boat I'd always admired for her lovely lines. Not being a sailor at all, he asked me to teach him about the strings and things and some basic sailing stuff. As we got the sails up in Mamala Bay, we sheeted in and set off for Diamond Head. Sitting at the helm, I could not believe how uncomfortable the motion in the cockpit was. We eased the sheets and she settled down some, but there was still considerably more motion than I was used to on my transom boat (a 1909 Wm. Hand, gaff ketch). Over the years, in many anchorages throughout the would, I have noticed double enders hobby horsing at anchor. Some more than others, to be sure, but all, more than a wide stern, transom boat. Therefor, I would have to question the comfort, as a liveaboard boat, of some double enders versus a transom boat. Of course, some boats with transoms and long overhangs or that are fine in the stern underwater, will hobby horse as well, so it's not quite as cut and dry as double enders versus transom boats in the hobby horsing department. There are a lot of things to consider if one is seeking a good cruising boat that is also a good liveaboard. I know quite a few people with great looking sail boats, that sail well, but are generally less comfortable liveaboards than the boat would seem, just by looking a it.  

Except that as a cruiser you spend so little time at sea and soooo much time on the hook with a drink in hand and friends in the cockpit... BTW, I'm not knocking Westsails. I think they're nice boats, but the lack of support for your back in the cockpit would drive me nuts.  

Hi Mr. Bana, I know your not knocking Westies and good point about being on the hook with friends . But really I don't see the back support problem, we use those folding type chairs with the back rest .True there is no combing (I have seen some where they made them out of teak ) talk about cutting down the seating . I probably sound like a Westsail salesman , truth is these boats are only for a few . However they are a well kept secret as far as price . Look at the 32's the most expensive is only $59,500 . WESTSAIL - CRUISING BOATS FOR SALE  

Reference was made in the movie Perfect Storm about a boat that was found still floating after the crew had abandoned it during the storm. This was supposed to have happened in real life. The boat in question was a Westsail 32..  

I am fond of Double enders. I have to say my favourite is really about 3different boats... but all the same boat. The Morris Frances 26. Also known as the Victoria Frances and the Victoria 800.. depending cabin design. They came as a cramped flush deck, a boxy trunk cabin, and a full length Cabin. They were also one of the most seaworthy boats for 26 feet with the majority of her weight (51%) in the keel as ballest. They might get pooped easier due to their diminutive size, but they are hard to knock over and come up quickly if they do. A veteran of the Circumnavigation fleet  

Jeff, let me just say thank-you for the brief but detailed history overview of the stern designs. It was very informative and a well worth read. I do have many factors to consider in my search to get it right. Cosmetic appearance is not that high on the list. Safety, stability are the first two. Once again, thanks - sam  

Thanks for the post. Beautiful picture! Right now I'm still doing research on what I like Within a hundred miles of me there is a reasonably priced 1981 Hunter Cherubini. I have also looked at Hans Christian, Westsail 32 Pacific Seacraft Mariah 31. to name a few. The only ones that do not appeal to me are the ones with a pilot house, I prefer open cockpit. Once again, Thank-You!  

In the hollywood movie Perfect Storm the sailboat they depicted was (is) a Westsail 32 named Satori , that still sails today . IMO they missed a good scene, Satori still floating at the end . But what really happened was she washed up on a beach . The only Westsail that was lost was the one they cut length wise in half so they could film inside !  

Westsailforever said: The only Westsail that was lost was the one they cut length wise in half so they could film inside ! Click to expand...

Maybe it is just me.. but I consider Canoe Sterns as being different from Double Enders. IMHO a Double Ender needs to have an outboard rudder like a Westsail32, Ingrid, or a Frances 26.. and a Canoe stern is like a Herreshoff Rozinante with it's shorter keel length and under-slung rudder. I do not have much experience with Canoe sterns other than to note they are not really all that different in behavior than an older Full keeled CCA cruiser like my own Sea Sprite 23. They just have even more hull overhanging the water doing nothing. Double Enders in the Archer/Atkins vein tend to have a long full keel and a waterline length not much shorter than their deck length. these are generally very seaworthy boats and the stern tends to act much like a rear facing bow when in a following sea  

The intuitive advantage of a double-ender or CCA era full keel boat is its diminished exposure of surface area to a following sea. Having breaking waves slip under the stern with minimal offset to COG seems to be a big advantage. The most challenging and tedious (to the helmsman) attitude of a sailboat IMO is in a heavy following sea. I would like to see actual comparison data in a following sea between a modern, wide, fin-keeled boat and a traditional deep keeled, narrow transom, overhung design. I really like the way waves slip under the stern of my old 60s design boat but have no experience on modern sailboats in the same situations. I have had powerboats with wide transoms that really got knocked around uncomfortably in a following sea if that's any indicator.  

smurphny said: The intuitive advantage of a double-ender or CCA era full keel boat is its diminished exposure of surface area to a following sea. Having breaking waves slip under the stern with minimal offset to COG seems to be a big advantage. The most challenging and tedious (to the helmsman) attitude of a sailboat IMO is in a heavy following sea. I would like to see actual comparison data in a following sea between a modern, wide, fin-keeled boat and a traditional deep keeled, narrow transom, overhung design. I really like the way waves slip under the stern of my old 60s design boat but have no experience on modern sailboats in the same situations. I have had powerboats with wide transoms that really got knocked around uncomfortably in a following sea if that's any indicator. Click to expand...

Next to the female form, canoes, double enders are the most appealing shape I know of. I have a "collection" of canoes. A wide variety for a variety of uses. Amazing craft! Capable, efficient, comfortable... I am almost finished building a scale model of our Islander-28. One of Bob Perry's favorite designs. He has described it as a double ender. I consider it one, too. For me (and apparently, Bob) the double ender is defined at the waterline. Tundra Down's ends both come together at the waterline. Seems correct to me. That is where the boat is being a boat. The rest of the "platform" isn't about the hull's shape. By "hull" I am referring to the part of the boat that interacts directly with the water.  

Attachments

The comment re the islander 28 as being a double ender. MANY IOR boats of the 70's in reality are double enders. While they have a transom per say, the flat part is a foot or so above the WL, and if you look at JUST the WL, you will see a double ender with the upper part of the rudder being out of the water. Myself, while some double/canoe sterns are pretty, I prefer the look of the newer designs that are generally speaking, can be a bit faster due to planing ability down wind etc. BUT, ANY properly built boat can and should survive the end intended useage if the person is up to it. One thing not mentioned by the OP. ARE you sailing around the world? or are you sailing say puget sound/san juans up to the mid BC area east of Vancouver island, or some other what I would call reasonably protected area. A puget sound boat would be different than a world cruiser boat in how you want it designed. Here the BIG cockpit to entertain in, sit in etc would be better than a smaller cockpit boat. Even here, many like pilot house boats so they can sail in the drizzly winter months in the dry. I guess what I am saying, there is NOT a perfect boat per say. BUT, many perfect boats depending upon the how you use your boat. A westsail for weeknight racing, weekend cruising, needing to be somewhat speedy as you only have soo much time, does not work as well for me as one of the newer designed style boat. This is not to say a westsail is an improper boat for someone in a different useage. The boat design useage should match your end use! Marty  

blt2ski said: The comment re the islander 28 as being a double ender. MANY IOR boats of the 70's in reality are double enders. While they have a transom per say, the flat part is a foot or so above the WL, and if you look at JUST the WL, you will see a double ender with the upper part of the rudder being out of the water. Myself, while some double/canoe sterns are pretty, I prefer the look of the newer designs that are generally speaking, can be a bit faster due to planing ability down wind etc. BUT, ANY properly built boat can and should survive the end intended useage if the person is up to it. Marty Click to expand...

there are 2 nonsuchs down here....one I beleive is from canada  

basically pick your poison... I disagree and agree on many things said by those in the know here...in the end I always fall to the designers notes on said boat and then those with true experience on said boats versus whatever info you can get from "established sources"... the reality is all boats dont do everything perfect...and excell in certain circumstances and fall flat in others overall I would venture to guess that boat designs today perform better than older similar rivals...HOWEVER its not as extreme and fantastic and or great a difference as to render older designs bad or non offshore capable etc... anywhoo regarding waves, yes 10, 20, 30 foot waves can slip under you regardless of stern shape...its the ones that break that show you the difference between stern types and which shape is better, not to mention the speed they are travelling at and what your speed is. just read a couple of moitessiers book(havent we all) on how to handle big waves from behind...his notes on this type of sailing are golden standards to this day. anywhoo last tidbit I had an old wooden h28 with a nice flat transom inwards like many old designs...with an outboard hung rudder of course and a really nice long full keel I could most definetely fill the incredible lift and steadiness this type of transom offers in following seas...because its flat it offered a steady motion, slow lift...and not much wash, something which canoe sterns, some cca boats and some double enders dont have. while wet to windward, on a beam or broad reach and even ddw it was a dream to sail..."on rails"  

• ?            
• 173.7K members

Top Contributors this Month

• Custom build
• Refits, Conversions, Renovaties
• Puffin yachts
• Zaca yachts
• Traditional interiors
• Contemporary interiors
• Classic interiors
• Cruising home
• Floating Residence
• Flexxliving
• New build Barges
• Converted Barges
• double ender SRF 50'

 The SRF 50 was developed in cooperation with the SRF yard in Harlingen. Its proven concept is based on an exceptionally seaworthy double ender hull. In the late 1980s, our design office was one of the first to introduce a classic integrated deck saloon, which, in addition to all-round views to the outside, provides space for an indoor steering position. The latter fits beautifully with the rest of the interior.

Our acclaimed centreboard system and many other details born of experience make for another truly authentic design. The SRF is available in 50', 60' and 72' versions and has countless interior options. An ideal yacht for the true sailor, it also comes in either a centreboard version (for large sailing areas) or as a long S-shaped keel. As always, we will partner with the yard to ensure easy maintenance and robust technology.

• 73' centreboard ketch 'Spirit of Venice'
• 64' schooner 'Wolfhound'
• Zaca ® 115'
• Floating residence
• Waddenboot IJver
• Cruising Home explorer 1250
• Puffin® latest versions 2021
• Puffin 50 for sail
• 103' klipper 'De Eenhoorn'
• 138m sail passenger vessel
• 49m 'Nassima'
• Puffin ® 65
• Cruising Home Explorer 1250 XT
• 58' 'Caribbee'
• Puffin ® 58'
• Cruising Home Explorer 1500
• 77' ketch Hr. Ms. 'Urania'
• Puffin ® 50'
• 63' cutter 'Esther Jensen'
• 12.6m Power Cruiser
• 45m schooner 'De Witte Pelicaen'
• Cruising Home Traveler 1250
• 39' cutter 'Mees Toxopeus'
• 95' schooner 'Neorion'
• 28 m City Cruise Vessel
• Cruising Home Traveler 1500 XL Panorama
• 26' FSC yacht 'De Ijsvogel'
• Puffin ® 42'
• Zaca ® 73' cutter
• 56' schooner 'Merillissa'
• 28 m City Cruise Vessel Classic
• Cruising Home Trawler 2000
• 125' schooner Zaca A te Moana
• Puffin ® 41'
• 19.7m 'Misha'
• 71' schooner 'Proud Mary'
• 93m sail training vessel 'Bima Suci'
• sloop Full Moon 49' 'Sandy-Cay'
• Puffin ® 37'
• 94' topsail schooner 'Johanna Lucretia'
• 12m saloon steamer 'De Amstel' restauration
• Puffin ® 30'
• 15m saloon steamer 'Sally' restauration
• 56' schooner 'Louise'
• Puffin ® 27'
• 89' topsail schooner 'Jacob Meindert'
• 92' brigantine
• 93' gaff schooner 'Tocorimé'
• 171' barque 'Stedemaeght'
• 91' Sailing Freighter
• Stayer® 63 sun deck
• 82' sloop or cutter Fast & Able
• 33m klipper 'Passaat'
• 74m topsail schooner
• Stayer® 63 open deck
• 80' sloop 'Pelican'
• 108' schooner 'Amazone'
• 75m sail training vessel
• 20m Trawler
• Zaca ® 73' schooner
• 57' schokker 'De Zout'
• 51m topsail schooner 'Oosterschelde'
• 111m Barkentine 'Star Flyer'
• 24m Trawler
• 46m sail training schooner
• 203' Three Masted Barkentine
• 115' Bermuda ketch 'White Heather'
• 22m lifeboat 'Dolphin' conversion
• 134m Full Rigged Ship 'Royal Clipper'
• 36m Ocean Ranger
• 92' tjalk 'De Vrouwe Christina'
• dingy Volante 15'
• 260m cruise ship
• Goeree 870 Motor Yacht - Motor Sailer
• 24m Classic
• 30' gaff cutter
• 36' Daysailer
• 50m classic motor yacht conversion
• Goeree 1090 Motor yacht - Motorsailer
• Goeree 1270 Motor Yacht - Motor Sailer
• Goodvaer 1250
• 18m OVM Cabrio
• 8.6m compagniesloep
• 5.35m Electric & Solar Tender
• Work Taxi Boat Amsterdam
• 70m Passenger Yacht
• 27m passenger MY 'Ostara' conversion
• 89m expedition cruise ship 'Plancius' conversion
• 111m Barkentine 'Star Clipper'
• 74' Schooner
• Flexxliving 1
• 50m Brigantine 'Swan fan Makkum'
• Flexxliving 2
• 22 m Hoogaars
• VanMeer ® 60
• Wad- en Sontvaarder
• Sailing yachts
• Motor yachts
• Interior design
• Living on water
• Contact info
• LinkedIn page OVM
• Twitter page OVM
• Facebook page OVM

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Pay My Bill
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter
• Give a Gift

How to Sell Your Boat

Cal 2-46: A Venerable Lapworth Design Brought Up to Date

Rhumb Lines: Show Highlights from Annapolis

Open Transom Pros and Cons

Leaping Into Lithium

The Importance of Sea State in Weather Planning

Do-it-yourself Electrical System Survey and Inspection

Install a Standalone Sounder Without Drilling

Rethinking MOB Prevention

Top-notch Wind Indicators

The Everlasting Multihull Trampoline

In Search of the Snag-free Clew

What’s Involved in Setting Up a Lithium Battery System?

Reducing Engine Room Noise

Breaking Point: What Can Go Wrong With Your Yanmar?

Mildew-resistant Caulks for Boats

Can We Trust Plastic Boat Parts?

Repairing Molded Plastics

Mailport: Marine plywood, fuel additives, through bolt options, winch handle holders

The Day Sailor’s First-Aid Kit

Choosing and Securing Seat Cushions

Cockpit Drains on Race Boats

Rhumb Lines: Livin’ the Wharf Rat Life

Safer Sailing: Add Leg Loops to Your Harness

Resurrecting Slippery Boat Shoes

Tricks and Tips to Forming Do-it-yourself Rigging Terminals

Marine Toilet Maintenance Tips

Learning to Live with Plastic Boat Bits

The Ultimate Guide to Caring for Clear Plastic

• Sailboat Reviews

Hans Christian 34/36

In many ways this blue-water cruiser represents the best and worst of taiwan boatbuilding- heavy but maintenance-intensive construction..

The story of the Hans Christian 34 and 36, and their successors, is a microcosm of the history of the Taiwan/U.S. boatbuilding industry. That is to say, a mixture of good designs, fine hand craftsmanship, knockoff gear, occasional shoddy finish and detail work, double-dealing and broken promises. Sometimes out of the mix comes a well-built, good-sailing blue water cruiser like the Hans Christian 34.

The Designer(s) and Builder(s)

Hans Christian Yachts got its start 24 years ago when a former Long Beach, California high school teacher named John Edwards approached naval architect Robert Perry about a plan to build quality yachts economically on the island of Taiwan. It wasnt an original thought; the Formosa Boat Building Co. in Taipei and Cheoy Lee in Hong Kong had been at it since the 1950s. Edwards and Perry had collaborated on an earlier Taiwan-built boat, the CT 54. For Edwards, Perry came up with plans for the hull, keel and rig for what would become the HC 34.

Before the first 34 was built, Perry says he was informed that Hans Christian had blown up his design to a 36-footer but that, no, he wouldnt be getting any royalties. Thus ended, for a time. Perrys role with the design, although the company continued to credit (or exploit) his name in connection with the 36.

Under Edwards Taiwan arrangement, he owned the designs and controlled the distributorship. An outfit called Union oversaw construction, and the yard basically owned the tooling. House designer for subsequent designs such as the 33 and the 41, was listed as Harwood S. Ives of Cruising Design in Winterport, Maine (Perry says hes tried unsuccessfully to track down Woody Ives, has found no one who knows him and tends to doubt his existence. Hans Christians new president, Jerry Finefrock, who took over this year, says he understands that Ives is English, but that he hasn’t been able to locate him either.)

Finefrock, a lawyer who concedes his knowledge of the firms earlier history is somewhat incomplete, says that through some sort of Chinese chicanery someone took the HC 36 molds and began building the Union 36. He said a lawsuit, filed by Edwards after Union lightened the scan’tlings and reverted to the Hans Christian name, ended the chicanery. Perry, who meanwhile had retaliated by designing the Tayana 37, disagrees with that version. He suspects that Edwards somehow alienated the yard, which owned the molds, much as he had with the earlier project, the CT 54.

Later, the Union people asked Perry to lend his name to the 36 in return for royalties. He agreed to a compromise in which the yard could claim the boat was based on a hull by Bob Perry, which was true to the extent it was a knockoff of his 34. When the company continued to claim it as his design, he disassociated himself and the royalties stopped.

In the middle of all this, a Union employee asked Perry at a meeting in Taipei to redesign the 36s keel, paid for the job with a personal check, then took the design and began building his own boat at the Mao Ta yard. The 36, ultimately more successful than the 34 in sales, popped up as the Mariner Polaris 36 and EO 36. None did as well as the Tayana 37, however, of which 570 eventually were made.

Hans Christian went on to create a number of successful models (John Edwards has a good eye for a boat, Perry concedes), eventually parting ways with the Hansa yard, which had taken on the line land presumably dropping German-built from its advertising claims, claims that made a lot of people believe the boats were built in a little Bavarian village high in the Taiwan Alps). The boats then were built at several other Taiwan yards before relocating, in 1989, to Thailand. Edwards then faded from the scene (Hes out of the business, Finefrock said) and the new ownership took over early in 1993 from Edwards former partner, Geoffrey White. Hans Christian now consists of two distributorships, one headed by Finefrock in Annapolis, another in Europe, and a new plant in Bangsaray, Thailand. Finefrock said the factory has air-conditioned lay-up facilities, a new quality control program directed by Michael Kaufman of Annapolis, and is certified to build to ABS standards.

Gone from production, the president said, are the 33 and 38; the 33T (traditional) is suspended, the 38T has been idle since 1990, and the 38 MK II is dead and buried. The 43T, out of production since 1989, will be reactivated, while the 43 Christina, part of Hans Christians updated Euro line, will continue. The 40 Christina is gone, but a new version of the 48T will be made. Plans are in the works for a 60-footer. In all, there are some 1,100 Hans Christians sailing the oceans of the world, including the 34 and 36.

Dont ask Hans Christian for the plans or any data, however; all was lost when the company relocated from California to Annapolis.?You can, however, call Perry (Robert Perry Yacht

Designers, 6400 Seaview Ave. N.W., Seattle, WA 98107; 206/789-7212), who feels a connection to Hans Christian owners, even if he didnt design all their boats. His consultation fee of $250 entitles per- sons to ongoing access and consultation, drawings and any technical backup you need.

As designed by Perry, with a little help from Edwards/ Ives, the Hans Christian 34/36 is a heavy, double-ended, cutter-rigged cruising yacht designed specifically for ocean sailing. Like others of its kind, its often described as a traditional North Sea double-ender, although the tradition exists mostly in the imaginations of builders and owners rather than with any vessels that actually existed. They are exaggerated caricatures of old boats, says Perry. Nevertheless the 34/36 has pleasing lines that draw admiring glances. And it was boats like this that helped Taiwan expand its boatbuilding industry during the 1960s and 70s.

The boat is typical Taiwan in other ways-solid construction (it displaces 18,300 pounds), its real teak decks and all-wood interior. The craftsmanship is excellent and affordable only because native carpenters were paid a tenth of what their U.S. counterparts earned. All this weight, of course, tends to make it a poor light-air sailer.

The 34/36 has a low chin bow, a short canoe stern, a long flat run aft and a fairly straight deadrise in the mid-section over a V-bottom, similar to Perrys U.S.- built Valiant 40. Perry said he began rounding his hulls for boats like the Tayana 37 and FD 35 before realizing hed gotten it right the first time. Thats a hull shape I went back to as time went on.

The hull is solid (and thick) hand-laid fiberglass. The deck is 5/8″ teak planks over a sandwich of 3/8″ glass, 3/4″ plywood, and another 3/8″ glass layer. The cabin top is cored with 1/2″ plywood. Although the deck bungs are bound to loosen with time (this is a boat that requires lots of maintenance) we saw no evidence of deck delamination in the 1978 model we inspected. The hull-deck joint is glassed over on the inside and appears to be through-bolted as well. Solid bulwarks allow the lifeline stanchions to be mounted vertically for better strength than those through-bolted to the deck. Interestingly, the nuts are embedded in the glass, a practice used elsewhere on the boat. (Hans Christian, incidentally, in the future will drop the thick glass and wood-cored hulls in favor of lighter Divinycell foam-cored hulls.)

The solid bronze traveler is definitely heavy-duty, although its position well forward on the boom makes sheeting difficult (photos of other 34s show boom-end sheeting). The bronze, like the wooden blocks, is part of the traditional aesthetic. Despite the overbuilt nature of the boat, little flaws here and there can create problems. On the 34 we sailed out of Newport in the summer of 1993, the Rosalie, a worker had failed to drill a weep hole in the port stanchion of the boom gallows. The result was a persistent leak over the galley that took the owner many hours to track down and remedy. And theres occasional mismatching of metals-in one case we saw stainless steel screws inserted into a bronze fitting.

Another complaint was a squared-off leading edge on the 7,000-pound full keel, described by the owner as looking like a cheese wedge. Perry says that probably was his fault as a relative newcomer, who neglected to give precise enough instruction to the yard that built the keel. The best solution, he said, is to reshape the leading edge with foam and fiberglass.

Accommodations

This is a good-sized boat with commodious, if less than perfect, storage and space below. The galley, to port at the foot of the companionway stairs, is small, with a two-burner stove, ice chest for cold storage and limited counter space.

Rosalies owner, Frank Girardi, cut a door into the compartment under the sink to convert otherwise dead space to storage. To starboard aft is a quarter berth that the owner says is his favorite sleeping berth. Theres also a generous chart table, positioned and sized for the dedicated navigator.

In the saloon is a settee berth to starboard and to port a U-shaped dinette; theres plenty of stowage behind and under seats. Six opening bronze ports, oval in size, and a large rod-reinforced skylight introduce lots of light to the main living area. A second, smaller hatch and several more ports forward provide natural light for the head and V-berths.

This is a deep boat with a big bilge, good access to the systems including the engine, and lots of tank- age; the original boat came with two stainless steel water tanks under the main salon and a smaller one forward. A previous owner removed the saloon tanks and replaced them with a single fiberglass unit that holds 150 gallons-sufficient for almost any trip. Girardi installed filters between tank and head and galley for better-tasting water.

Other alterations made (and worth checking on any boat) included replacing an (illegal) T-joint in a propane line behind the dinette, leading to a LPG water heater, and replacing a gate valve in the head with a Wilcox-Crittenden seacock. The owner also cut another door under the head sink for better access to seacocks. A check of all the seacocks, which may or may not be cheap knockoffs, is a good idea.

Performance

At 18,000-plus pounds and with a 5′ 6″ full keel (with cheese wedge up front), this is not your ideal light-air cruiser, despite its three sails (main, Yankee and staysail) and total sail area of 676 square feet. In fact, it requires a good 15 knots to get up and go at anywhere near its hull speed. We were doing 5.6 knots close-hauled, relatively-speaking, in 13-15 knots and small Narragansett Bay waves. The owner has reached a top speed of 11 knots (while surfing in a following sea) and recorded a high of 9 knots on the return of this years Bermuda One-Two race. For the record, the only PHRF data for the 34 and 36 we could find, one boat each, was 204 and 186 respectively.

Despite Hans Christians one-time claim that the 34/36 has a genuine appetite to go to weather in a drifter or a blow. this boat is best on a reach. The highest youre likely to get to point is 45 degrees; we tacked through an even 90 degrees on our outing. A bigger jib should help the boats overall performance, according to comments Practical Sailor has received. In fact, Perry recommends sailing with a genoa and without the staysail to maximize light- air performance. Sailed as a sloop, he says the 34s performance compares favorably to other boars of this genre.

While hardly the boat for a drifter, its definitely a good boat to be on during a blow. Owners report that it rises exceptionally well to the steepest of waves. High-sided with big bulwarks, it may not be the aerodynamic ideal, but it is dry and safe. The cockpit, surrounded by teak staving, is comfortable in size and configuration, but small enough to be safe at sea and with adequate drainage. The bulwarks make going forward feel quite safe.

Although OSTAR and BOC veteran Francis Stokes calls a cutter sail plan the best for ocean sailing, it can be difficult to learn to trim. Perry agrees that the clutter rig is the most difficult for the beginner to master, noting that an over-trimmed staysail acts like a parking brake. We experienced some backwinding of the mainsail by the staysail tin part because its foot was too long for the club and had quite a hook in it) and felt occasional weather helm. Part of the problem may have been the extreme forward location of the mainsheet traveler, which made trimming difficult; a dodger also interfered with cranking the winch a full turn.?The boat itself balances well; the owner reports that his Monitor wind vane works well in most conditions. On the wind, he was able to simply lock the wheel and sit back and relax while the boat held its course.

Heeling was not excessive at 15-17 degrees in 15- knot winds. Reefing should not be necessary until well into 20 knots of wind; easing the mainsheet will buy some extra time without suffering undue consequences.

Hans Christians came powered with a variety of engines. Two 34s we know of, one with an Isuzu 40, the other with a 3-cylinder, 35-hp. Volvo, got about the same results in speed-about 6 or so knots at 1,800 rpm. Rosalies performance under power improved (for a time) to about 8 knots with a three-bladed propeller, but fell off during the season, possibly because of bottom fouling. The owner had switched from his two-blade because it thumped when passing behind the deadwood; fairing the aperture would help this condition.

While not a good boat for the weekend coastal cruiser, or for anyone who does much sailing in light-to-moderate air, this is an excellent choice for the serious blue-water sailor. This is a boat that will take you offshore to Bermuda or just about anywhere and will stand up to a gale. The 34/36 wont get you there fast, but it will get you there safely.

The teak decks and wood interior are attractive, but carry with them the burden of constant upkeep. This is a good-looking boat, particularly to those who like the traditional canoe stern and all the trimmings. And you can probably pick one up in the $50,000-$55,000 range.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

Island Packet 370: What You Should Know | Boat Review

How To Make Starlink Better On Your Boat | Interview

Catalina 380: What You Should Know | Boat Review

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

• Boats for Sale

Double-ender for sale (sail)

• Double-ender

What is a Double-ender?

A sail double-ender is a type of sailing vessel that has identical bow and stern sections and typically carries a lugsail rigged on both masts. These vessels are designed to be able to sail quickly and efficiently in both directions and often have a narrow, shallow hull shape with minimum stability. They are often used in coastal and inshore fishing but can also be employed in short-distance cruising or racing. Historical examples of sail double-enders include cutters, luggers, schooners, and wherries.

Which manufacturers build double-ender sail boats?

Manufacturers that produce double-ender sail boats include Lymington Slipway & Engineering Company , Lagoon Royal , Lagoon Catamarans , J W Miller & Sons Ltd and Comar .

How much does a double-ender sail boat cost?

A used double-ender sail boat on TheYachtMarket.com ranges in price from £4,500 GBP to £1,670,000 GBP with an average price of £385,000 GBP . Factors including the condition, age, model and specification will affect the price of a double-ender.

Sign up to our newsletter

By submitting this form, you agree to our Privacy & Cookie Policy

Change units of measure

This feature requires cookies to be enabled on your browser.

Show price in:

Show lengths, beam and draft in:

Show displacement or weight in:

Show capacity or volume in:

Show speed in:

Show distance in:

• Sign In or Register
• Boats for Sale
• Research Boats
• Sell a Boat
• Search Alerts
• My Listings
• Account Settings
• Dealer Advertising
• Double Ender Sailboat

Double Ender Sailboat Boats for sale

Sailboat Westsail 28' blue-water cruiser cutter double ender single hander.

Sneedville, Tennessee

Posted Over 1 Month

Cutter rigged full keel blue-water sailboat. This vessel has a 24hp Volvo MD-11c engine that is very dependable and great on fuel. Due to this engine it is registered as an antique for $6-8.00 a year registration fee.The boat is set up for single handed sailing with new standing/running rigging, 3-sails, roller furled, Nor Vane wind vane auto pilot (new), compass, 2-VHF Standard Horizon radios 1 with plotter and black box depth - temp - fish finder and an additional Standard Horizon chart plotter mounted on the hard top for quick reference. There is also a back up Nav. Comm. depth and speed mounted in the cockpit, 3-anchors, fiberglass cockpit hard top (new), 2-60w solar panels, 2-20lb propane tanks, practically new aluminum 50 - 55 gal fuel tank, 2 new wet cell batteries, 40 gal fresh water bladder tank (new), water pump (new), macerator pump (new), 20-gal holding tank (new), new toilet, 2 - burner propane stove with broiler, a microwave, AM/FM radio and CD player, 2-Off Shore inflatable and 2-Off Shore orange life preservers. I installed a new bowsprit about 2 months ago and have had the bright work varnished over the last couple of months. I also installed a new big screen TV and a new Blue Ray disc player and many more custom features such as a built in tool box with tools mounted in the engine room.

33' Rough Water Sailboat 1983

Slidell, Louisiana

Make Roughwater

33' Rough Water Sailboat 1983 OBO - $15500 condition: fair engine hours (total): 50 length overall (LOA): 33 make / manufacturer: 33' model name / number: Roughwater propulsion type: sail 33' Rough Water Sailboat 1983 is a Thomas Gillmer designed Roughwater 33 built in Taiwan in the Late 70's. She has a hand-laid fiberglass bulletproof hull. She's a strong sturdy double ender and was made to cross oceans. And so you shall. Hull Type: Long keel w/trans. hung rudder Rig Type: Masthead Sloop LOA: 33.08' / 10.08m LWL: 26.00' / 7.92m Beam: 9.75' / 2.97m Listed SA: 460 ft2 / 42.73 m2 Draft (max.) 4.75' / 1.45m Draft (min.) Disp. 15000 lbs./ 6804 kgs. Ballast: 5000 lbs. / 2268 kgs. SA/Disp.: 12.14 Bal./Disp.: 33.33% Disp./Len.: 381.00 Designer: Thomas Gilmer Builder: Tao-Yuan Boatyard (TAIWAN) Construct.: FG Bal. type: First Built: 1975 Last Built: 1985 # Built: AUXILIARY POWER (orig. equip.) Make: Yanmar Model: 2HM20 Type: Diesel HP: 20 Have Mast, Sails, Rigging, and Bow Sprit $15500 OBO

Very Rare 19 ft Southern-sail Skiffle sailboat motor and trailer turn key!

Miami, Florida

Make Southernsail Skiffie

FINAL REDUCTION BEFORE SHE'S OFF THE MARKET! FROM 7500 TO 6000!!Very Very Rare! only a hand full were made, Skiffie 1982 19 ft Southernsails Inc, (XUT) with a Johnson sailmaster 7.5 extra long shaft double- ender lapstrake heavy fiberglass sailboat in pristine conditions ( Faiths ) hull is shinny and smooth with great lines, main sail is great, working jib also, she was built by southernsails Inc in Clearwater Florida, has new varnished tiller handle with cover, Bimini top with boot cover, new Tung jack. tiller tamer new, wind indicator, lines, custom mast holder made out of aluminum, new chocks, anchor and rod new, cushions, recently rebuild entire tandem trailer with custom bunks ,new keel guides, supports, new axles, hubs, 4 new wheels and a new spare with carrier and cover, new Led trailer lights, safety chains, bow stopper, winch, strap, recently had bottom professionally painted, have Florida title and trailer registration on hand!, please serious inquiry's only. Many Thanks.LOA 19FIXED KEELBEAM 6"8DRAFT 2ftDISPLACEMENT 1900 lbs.SAIL AREA 143 sq.ftOUTBOARD MOTOR WELLSELF BAILING COCKPIT.

Sakonnet 23 Daysailer, Built by Edey & Duff, Designed by Joel White, Sailboat

Greenville, South Carolina

Make Sakonnet

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 23.2

15.00 Built by Edey & Duff, the Sakonnet 23 is one of the prettiest daysailers you will find. Refreshingly handsome from all angles and super-swift as well, this distinctive double-ender is ideal for the experienced sailor who wants a roomy, inshore daysailer for weekend and evening sailing with family and friends. What’s more, her true hull speed and modern high-aspect rig make the Sakonnet 23 a most competitive one-design class racer.We have owned this boat since 2007. She has been well-maintained and is in excellent condition. Please contact me for additional information and more photos. BUILDER/DESIGNER Builder: Edey & Duff (built in 2005) Designer: Joel White DIMENSIONS LOA 23’2” – LWL 18’8” Beam 6’1” – Displacement 2000 lbs Draft 1’10” – 5’2” – Ballast 920 lbs MOTOR & ELECTRICAL Factory Installed – Minn-Kota electrical motor 12 volt Interstate battery 24 MRO 500 amps Pro Sport 20 fully automatic/electronic multi-stage marine charger Electrical wiring, switch with meter Mast headlight AH 800 Tiller pilot Electrical and manual bilge pumps SAILS & RIGGING Mainsail by Harding Jib by Harding with UV protection Roller furling New boat and sail cover Sails cleaned and maintenance performed by Sail Care 6/15 Harken winches, whisker pole eye ADDITIONAL INVENTORY Triad galvanized trailer with extending tongue Lifting bridle Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE

1980 Corbin 39 Aft Cockpit Cutter

Clearwater, Florida

Make Corbin

Model 39 Aft Cockpit Cutter

Category Cutter

1980 Corbin 39 Aft Cockpit Cutter 2018 SURVEY AVAILABLE! CALL OR EMAIL ME! FULL DETAILS ON BOAT IN SURVEY! This is a rare example of an incredibly well-maintained Corbin 39, one of the most rugged and popular ocean-going cruising boats around. Canadian built and owned (import duty paid) and available at a very reasonable price. Please view the photos for details! Great sail inventory:  GenoaYankeeStay sailDrifterMain (2008)Spare main Minimal thruhulls -- sea chest for engine  New prop shaft 2015 Refrigeration condenser 2014 Solar Engine has had top end rebuilt twice Diesel heater Raymarine autopilot Raymarine tri-data Garmin GPS Map 76Cx Epirb Ground tackle: 53 LB CQR, 45 LB CQR, 45 LB Danforth  From a review in Bluewater Boats: In 1977 Marius Corbin commissioned Robert Dufour of Montreal, Quebec to design him a sailboat based on a one-off 39-foot Dufour design named Harmonie. Mr. Corbin asked Mr. Dufour to increase the freeboard and flush the deck. In 1979, the first Corbin 39 came out of the resulting mold, and the Canadian manufacturer produced 129 Corbins until 1982. Most were sold as kits in varying degrees of completion. In 1982, a fire destroyed the deck molds, but because of continued strong demand, they decided to update the molds and continue production. The last Corbin 39 produced, hull number 199, was launched in 1990. The Corbin 39 is a double ender in the classic Scandinavian lineage of serious offshore cruisers like the Westsail 32. She features a long fin keel of 6 draft, high freeboard, and a blunt bow. Corbin produced various deck molds including flush, pilot, center cockpit, and aft cockpit variations. Corbin

1988 Homemade 38

Coos Bay, Oregon

Make Homemade

For you traditionalist's out there, Read on This Sailboat was built by a man with passion and a vision to create a classic, traditional sailboat from the George Buehler stable( Great bear).Elmer worked for the forestry and put 10 years of labor and love into her before passing. Tom Tallman purchased and re-powered and fitted taller aluminium mast and rigging and was 'gutted' selling her. Current owner purchased in 2005 and loves her strong construction, sea kindle-ness, taller mast in light airs and young boat with traditional style. Hard Chine construction. Topsides have conventional carvel plank on frame construction, w/ a large fir chine timber, below chine there is a diagonal stave planking running between chine + keel. Staves are well bedded in 3M 5200 rubber sealant. Double ender wood hull. The Hull took 10 years to build. Port Oxford cedar; Cap-rail, bulwarks siding. Stanchions + Samson post are Pacific yew. Douglas Fir; covering boards, chine timber 2" thick, 2-3/4" thick fir floor timbers, sawn fir knees under ends of deck beams. Backbone structure is steel bolt fastened. Decking material: Laid planked Douglas Fir VG old growth w/galvanized steel wood screw fastenings. Ceiling 1/2" thick yellow cedar fastened down w/steel nails. Long cast cement keel. (cement keel has encased in case hardened steel tractor tread steel pins to have more weight for volume.) Internal pig iron added to extended seats + lead ingots under bunk, approx

Narrow Results

Current search reset all.

• Keyword: double ender sailboat
• Homemade (1)
• Roughwater (1)
• Sakonnet (1)
• Southernsail Skiffie (1)
• Daysailer Sailboats (1)
• Florida (2)
• Louisiana (1)
• South Carolina (1)
• Tennessee (1)
• Search Title Only
• Has Picture
• Include Sold Listings

Showcase Ads

1988 Catalina Tall Rig

Halesite, NY

1999 VIP River boat

Coos Bay, OR

2005 Crownline 316 LS

2004 Sea Ray 270 Sundeck

Phoenix, AZ

2013 Axis A22

Bennington, NE

2018 Blue Wave 2000 SL

Corpus Christi, TX

Create Alert

Please, name this search

Select Interval

Alert Successfully Created

Jordan Yacht Brokerage

We Never Underestimate Your Dreams

10 best aft cockpit double enders for under $200,000.

This list originally posted on July 24, 2010 had numerous errors that thankfully kind readers have pointed out. Here is an updated version.

I contributed to a Cruisers Forum thread the other day. The fellow asked for a list of heavy displacement sailboat under 40 that are not double enders. That made me think: What are the double enders? The below list consists of ten double ended, aft cockpit sailboats. In the 1970’s, a canoe stern was standard on serious cruising sailboats popularized by the Westsail 32. In compiling my list, I tried to avoid many of the character type, teak laden, full keeled double enders. A canoe stern was mostly paired with a full keel until the design just completely went out of style. Even Valiant Yachts has gone out of business in 2011, so I cannot name a canoe stern maker in current production.

A double ender does still stir that dream of cruising to far off places. For a single sailor or couple, some of these yachts are excellent options. Others offer terrible performance but offshore security. A few are too unrealistically built for the lower latitudes because of high maintenance teak exteriors. Some have aft cabins while others have only a single cabin forward. A good portion are Robert Perry designs, the master of canoe sterns. I have kept to a price range of $100,000 to $200,000 with lengths between 36 and 41 feet. Please comment below with any suggested additions or subtractions. I have listed the sailboats in alphabetical order of brand name.

• Baba 40 : Robert Perry design with many smaller sisterships. Built strong by the Ta Shing yard famous for Taswell yachts and Norhavn trawlers. Baba was the first chronologically in this line, then Panda, and finally Tashiba.
• Corbin 39 Aft Cockpit : French Canadian built boats that were home finished. The factory produced the hull and deck but left interior detailing to the owner. Comes in many different deck molds including center cockpit versions. The later versions have a bowsprit to balance the helm.
• Espirit 37 : Robert Perry design for Valiant yachts. Perry says this is the loveliest canoe stern he ever drew.
• Fast Passage 39 : Rare William Garden design. Only 40 were built by Tollycraft but recently a fellow has purchased the tooling for new production.
• Hans Christian 38 Traditional : Woody Ives design. Original HC 36 is a Perry inspired design. Beautiful teak laden cruising machine. Telstar versions have modern fin keeled underbody.
• Pacific Seacraft 37 : William Crealock design with fin keel and traditional lines. The company went out of business in 2008 and moved from California to North Carolina to continue production.
• Southern Cross 39 : Thomas Gilmer design with Airex cored hull and fin keel underbody. Smaller 31 and 35 foot sisters.
• Tayana 37 : Prolific Robert Perry design that comes in many deck variations including ketch rigs. The raked mast produced wicked weather helm and a water tank forward makes her pound according to Perry and TOG News.
• Valiant 42 : Robert Perry design with a bowsprit added to Valiant 40. Has great sea motion and strong build. This is the original and still a great choice for a performance cruiser.
• Vancouver 36 : Rare smaller version of Vancouver 42 by Robert Harris. Built like a tank by Durbeck and later Hidden Harbor in Sarasota, Florida. Only has a single pullman berth.

For detailed reviews of most of these yachts and more, please see Bluewater Boats .

10 Replies to “10 Best Aft Cockpit Double Enders For Under $200,000”

The Panda 38 isn’t a double-ender…

I guess that answers the question…

I see Will has a nice review: http://bluewaterboats.org/panda-38/

Thanks for catching my mistake. I like Will’s review of the Panda 38 @ http://bluewaterboats.org/panda-38 .

• Pingback: 20 Best Aft Cockpit Sailboats Not Double Ended Under $200,000 « Jordan Yacht Brokerage

If I recall, the Pacific Seacraft 37 is nor a full keel.

I don’t remember ever seeing a Pacific Seacraft with a teak deck. You sure you even looked at these boats before you wrote this review

Thanks for another correction. You are right, and Bluewater Boats has a clear layout to prove it: http://bluewaterboats.org/pacific-seacraft-crealock-37/

Just meant the teak combing and caprail though I don’t think my critique is all that fair. Clearly need to rewrite this post. Thanks for the feedback.

I love your lists. How about  the best 48 ft -52ft  aft cockpit semi production for a cruising couple with a budget up to $500,000. 2 stateroom; safe; fast; classy; easy to sail; all the bells and whistles for sailing in the Bahamas, Carribbean- AC/Genset/ electric winches, etc. vs. a refit of a Hinckley or Morris.

Thanks mgshorn for the suggestion. I’ll make that next Wednesday’s post. RJ Sent from my iPad

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Study Plans are available for these designs - remember a study plan gives you more details and a wood materials list usually on two A1 sheets, so that you can cost out a project before ordering the full plans. When you order the full construction plans you do not need to order the study plan as well, as all the study details are on the full plans.

We have 11 designs ranging from traditional canoe yawls to Polish Fishing boats and Scottish Skiffs :-

ORDER THE 19'6" LARK DORY PLANS

ORDER THE  15' MEDWAY DOBLE PLANS

ORDER THE  16' IONA SKIFF PLANS

ORDER THE  16' ISLAY PLANS

ORDER THE  17'3" KON BOT PUCK PLANS

ORDER THE  17'3" GDANSK PLANS

ORDER THE  KARI 2 FAERING PLANS

ORDER THE  15' LILLIE CANOE YAWL PLANS

ORDER THE  18'4" JIM CANOE YAWL PLANS

ORDER THE  16' CASCO BAY CANOE YAWL PLANS

ORDER THE  26' WHALER ROWING BOAT PLANS

ORDER THE 24' NEW BEDFORD WHALER PLANS

ORDER THE  21' SOLWAY WHALER PLANS

ORDER THE KARI 24' NORWEGIAN FAERING PLANS

ORDER THE 40' VIKING LONGBOAT PLANS