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The Ullman Sails J/22 World-Championship winning AP Mainsail is the ultimate in class performance. A fast, easy-to-use shape offers sailors, of all levels, a sail that can drive their performance forward. A cross-cut design using specialty One Design Dacron means your sail will be as light as possible, while still offering long-lasting performance.

Ullman Sails’ J/22 AP Jib offers exceptional pointing and performance upwind. With added power from Ullman Sails to help your upwind inventory, you’ll be gliding ahead of the competition. The Ullman Sails AP Jib is a World-Championship winning design that utilizes an easy-to-use cross-cut panel layout.

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Using lightweight mylar in a tri-radial layout, this World-Championship winning spinnaker will significantly boost your downwind performance.

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J/80 vs J/22: Which is Right For You?

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• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Single hand cruising a J22

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So, I bought my first sailboat a couple of years ago, a J22, because of its reputation as a great performer. I intended just to cruise around for awhile and maybe later ease into racing. Had hoped this would be a hobby that my wife and I would enjoy together. But a problem - she likes sailing as long as she doesn't have to constantly participate in handling the boat. I am a reasonable sailor, but there is no way I can handle jib, main, and tiller on this boat alone. To save my sailing hobby I'm now looking for ways to make the boat a little friendlier to get out on the water and single hand. I've already painted the bottom and put it in a slip. I'm now looking at installing a furling jib (has anyone here put one on their J22) and buying an outboard. Would love to hear comments and more ideas on how to help make this a single hander.  

I'll second eMckay. The roller furling jib alone would make a big difference. And the unit for a J22 is pretty small, so it could be a reasonable-priced but major upgrade. Of, course, you'll have to have a sailmaker modify the jib to work with roller furling, so there's some extra expense there. But still well worth it. Alternatively -- If cruising is exclusively what you plan to do, maybe this is a good time to evaluate whether the J22 is the right boat for your circumstances? I love those J22s and frequently recommend them for folks looking to get into sailing and one-design racing. But there are better choices for laid-back cruising. Is it time to take the next step? P.S. Welcome to SAILNET!!  

I used a tiller tamer type of device on a small lake for years and it was a big help, but on a larger body of water, or when you want to get away from the tiller for longer periods of time, an electronic autopilot would be an excellent aid, but, then you have to start thinking about recharging your battery. I agree with John in suggesting it might be time to think about moving to a more cruising oriented boat.  

I have definitely considered moving to more of a cruising boat, certainly will do that in the future. But I guess I'm hoping for now that it's less trouble and expense to just make a few modifications to the J, despite the snickers. Thanks for all the good advice!  

single hand cruising a J22 Jeremy, I singlehand a Catalina 22. The most important modification I made to make singlehanding possible was to install a tiller controller (tiller tamer). The next was to rig a means of doing virtually everything from the cockpit. Then, I rigged lines to ensure I could get back into the cockpit if I went overboard. Finally, I will often forego the 150% genoa (flying just the 110% because it's easier to handle)--and I always use a jib downhaul to keep the jib on the deck when I douse the sails. I now have 6 lines leading back to the cockpit, organized to stay free of each other, 2 jibsheets, travellor and mainsheets, 3 winches, and a number of blocks and cleats to handle it all. I purposely chose not to use a roller furler because of weight, windage, and aerodynamics. I cruise and race this boat, but she's primarily a weekend cruiser. With a few mods, you can make your J22 easy to singlehand and cruise without hurting her racing capability. I'm sure there are other J boat owners out there who have made similar mods to their boats. Best wishes, Pat  

I agree that the tiller tamer is a great accessory. But so is the ability to trim the sails so that she steers herself (no good for foredeck work but it allows you to tend to other things) Neither of these books are new, but I found helpful advice in both: Amazon.com: A Manual of Single Handed Sailing: Tony Meisel: Books Amazon.com: Singlehanded Sailing: The Experiences and Techniques of the Lone Voyagers: Richard Henderson: Books For the record, I single-hand much larger boats without difficulty, but with a lot of preparation. One is a '70s cruiser-racer with a huge J measurement, hank-on foresails and the halyard winch at the mast. I will motor out, go head to wind, crank up the main, leave it centered, pre-wrap both jib sheets on the winches loosely for when it is fully out on a reach (you can mark your sheets to indicate this), and then I will motor fast into the wind, throw the throttle back, throw the engine into neutral, and haul up the jib halyard (pre-loaded at the dock and with the sail either loose on the deck or barely held down with cotton thread) as fast as I can. Usually, the jib is up and flogging before the boat can coast to a stop or fall off in either direction. I can get back to the cockpit and fall off one way or another and can trim or unwrap either winch, during which I steer with my legs or "by the seat of my pants". I'm middle-aged and the opposite of petite, so I figure most people can manage this, especially if the jib halyard runs back to the cockpit. The bigger boat is a full-keeler with furling and hydraulic steering, making all this much easier (and more stately), as it tracks much better than the lighter fin keeler. The difference is that I get the main up at the mast, and simply unfurl the jib from the helm.  

I really enjoy sailing my J22 single-handed. Yesterday I made a short coastal hop around the Dubai Palm in 10 - 12 knots, sailing solo. While a tiller minding device like the one pictured would no doubt be great, I use a simple elastic bungee on the tiller to hold course while I go forward to attend to the jib(or the cool box!). The elastic is tied between the two stern cleats with a central loop fitting over the end of the tiller. By taking extra loops of the elastic over the tiller, it's pretty easy to adjust the tension to maintain course. I always sail in and out of the mooring on the mainsail - I've never yet used the outboard! I always rig the jib flaked on the foredeck and retained with another elastic cord and a quick release snap shackle line back to the cockpit - it's usually not a problem to raise the jib when you're under way. Having said all that, the J22 undoubtedly sails best with more than one person crewing. When it's blowing more than about 10 knots close hauled and sheeted in, I find my weight (187 pounds) isn't really enough to keep the lee gunwale out of the water, and my new Quantum main doesn't have a reefing cringle. I have to spill wind, or end up making too much leeway. The return trip today with a friend crewing with me was much faster in similar wind conditions, just because of the extra weight keeping the windward rail down!  

Food for thought...while rigging your boat to be single-handed friendly, you should put some serious thought into how your significant other would handle the boat in cases of emergency. It is policy on my boat, if you are out with me...you are crew. The more you participate, the more you learn.....my .02.  

Some more thoughts... Single handing a J22 is NOT crazy. But you need to establish some simple rules on modifications. First, NEVER make any permanent alteration that will take the boat out of class rules. The only one I think that may be broaching that is adding slugs to the main. In that case you can likely find a used main to replace it with if and when you decide to sell her. I don't know if adding deck hardware would be a big no-no or not, but adding gear to bring the halyards to the cockpit and adding a furler (I am sure this would be frowned upon but hey assuming you get a furler that can be as easily removed as it is add then no harm no foul. You may not be able to switch out winches for ST winches but with some cam cleats you can make do. I don't race and have no plans to race. My boat is rigged with a roller furler and halyards led aft and I added lazy-jacks. I am considering a tiller pilot next (I have some nice big 30ST 2 speed winches for my spring projects. One key to single handing (or perhaps more correctly, short handed) sailing is pre-planning. If you forget to get the chart-plotter out and plugged in before you hoist sails you may be stuck without it. Well, you get the idea. Of course you might want to get yourself a discreet bucket for those times when nature calls and the head is a long way off...  

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J/22 TUNING GUIDE

This guide for the J/22 has been developed through extensive testing, tuning, and practical racing experience by some of the top sailors in the country. New changes in the class and developments in sailcloth and sail design technology continue to bring about improvements in the J/22’s performance, and North Sails is an important part of these innovations.

While we can’t guarantee you immediate victory on the race course by following this guide, we can assure you that you’ll be taking a big step in the right direction!

BOAT PREPARATION

The suggestions below are for our latest M-7 mainsail, which performs best with the angled step. If you have the SC-2 main or a flat step (the NB-1 main), please contact us and we’ll gladly help you with your tuning.

In preparing your boat for sailing, first step the mast and connect the forestay. Then:

1. Pull your jib halyard down alongside the mast and tension it so the halyard shackle is just even with the top of the gooseneck band. Cleat the halyard at this point.Next, swing the jib halyard out to the forestay and pull it snug alongside the forestay. Place a mark (either with a piece of tape or a permanent marker) on the forestay at the very bottom of the halyard shackle. Measure from this point (which represents the top of your band) down to the junction of your template and bow plate.

For the angled step, hull numbers prior to 1460 , and the M-7 main, this measurement should be 4’ 11”.

For the angled step, hull numbers 1460 or after , and the M-7 main, this measurement should be 5’ 1/8”.

2. To aid in centering the mast laterally in the boat, place a pencil mark 8’ back from the stem fitting at the shear (the hull-deck intersection) on each side. Then hoist a tape measure on the jib halyard and measure to these pencil marks. Adjust the upper shroud lengths correspondingly on each side of the boat until the mast is centered. Be sure to adjust the lower shrouds as well, maintaining a straight mast (sighted up the back of the mast).

3. Tension the uppers to 250 lbs for the M-7 and angled step. This setting (for 10- 12 knots of breeze) is your uppers tension “base” number.

4. Tension the lowers so the mast is straight laterally when sighting up the slot at the back of the mast. The lowers “base” number should be at or close to 5 on the newer black PT-1 Loos Pro Model gauge.

5. Re-measure the side to side position of the mast to ensure that it is still centered. If you have calibrated turnbuckles, record the respective numbers.

6. Check that you have developed the proper pre-bend in the mast (positive bend) by pulling the main halyard taught to the gooseneck. The distance between the back of the mast and the main halyard at the spreaders for the M-7/angled step should be close to 1”.

7. Check your forestay tension without any tension on the backstay and with the rig still tensioned to your base settings. The forestay tension should be close to 6-7 on the PT-1 gauge.

8. Check that your backstay is the proper length. Sometimes on older boats, and especially with the increased rake of the M-7/angled step, the backstay may be too long and “bottom out” too early, not allowing enough backstay tension to be applied in heavier winds. If this problem exists, the backstay may need to be shortened a few inches at the top.

RIG ADJUSTMENT ON SHORE

We suggest you start each day by setting your rig close to the base numbers (or do this at the end of the previous day’s sailing).

UPPERS: 250 lbs

LOWERS: 5 PT-1

For   lighter winds , you need to loosen your rig tension to allow for more headstay sag, which will create a more powerful jib.

The lightest wind settings should be 145 lbs on the uppers and very loose on the lowers (the PT-1 will not register).

In these extremely light conditions, the forestay should be loose as well, just barely registering on the PT-1 gauge.

In   heavier winds   (above 19 knots), much more tension is needed to maintain proper forestay sag and mast bend.

In the 19-20 knot breeze range, the upper shrouds should be tensioned to 450 lbs and the lowers to 14 on the PT-1.

The headstay should be nearly 16 on the PT-1.

RIG ADJUSTMENT ON THE WATER

Adjusting shroud tension: the visual method.

This visual method is our suggested way to set your shroud tension for all crew weights and in all wave and breeze conditions. We feel that it is not only a relatively simple technique to use, but also the most accurate way to achieve proper and consistent rig setup in the J/22.

Set your rig tension so that the leeward upper shroud just starts to appear slack – not sloppy, but just not taught. Start out close to the upper shroud tension suggested in the chart below for your best guess of the present wind velocity. When sailing upwind under proper sail trim, watch the leeward upper shroud, and if it has a great deal of “wiggle” (more than a ½” back and forth), tighten both sides equally until the leeward upper is again just starting to go slack. If the breeze lightens, or you start out too tight (no wiggle at all), back off both uppers equally until a slight wiggle just appears.

The lower shroud tension is checked by sighting up the slot in the back of the mast (lay your head on the windward side of the mainsail facing forward and looking up the mast groove). There should be a slight sag (approximately ½” to 1 ½”) to leeward at the spreaders in all conditions except very breezy ones (20 knots and above) when heavy boom vang tension is used. Only in these very breezy conditions will the mast become almost straight. Never, in any condition, should the mast bow to windward at the spreaders! You’ll have the most sag in very light air and the least sag (almost straight) in 20 knots and up.

Sight the sag in the mast by sighting up the back of the mast when sailing upwind.

1”-3/4” of sag to leeward indicated proper lower shroud tension

ADJUSTING FORESTAY LENGTH

Although the forestay length set on shore for your boat’s hull number is generally correct, you can also check to make sure on the water that it’s as accurate as possible. Doing this is easiest in 6-8 knots of breeze with a crew of maximum J/22 class weight. In this wind strength, the crew should be all just hiking and the boat should be “awkwardly flat,” with about 3-4 degrees of heel. Make sure your shroud tension is right and your sails are set up and trimmed correctly for the wind speed. The backstay and other sail-depowering controls should not be needed in these conditions.

Once the boat is sailing comfortably, begin the forestay length check by gently letting go of the helm and allowing the boat to go where it likes. If the forestay length is correct, the boat should drive straight for 3-5 seconds and then turn down. Repeat this test several times to confirm the results.

If, after performing this check several times, you find that the boat consistently turns up instead of down, you should shorten your forestay two full turns and then perform the check again. If the boat now goes straight but doesn’t ever turn down, you’re very close to the right length, so shorten the forestay another full turn and perform the check again. If the boat starts turning down sooner than 3-5 seconds after you let go of the tiller, lengthen the forestay by one or two turns and perform the test again. Through trial and error, you’ll be able to get the correct forestay length.

So using this method, you can either verify that your forestay length set on land is correct or make adjustments to it based on how the boat drives when you let go of the helm. Once the boat drives as described above, pin the forestay and tape it. You will not need to change it again for any conditions that you sail in.

UPWIND SAIL TRIM

Once you have the rig set up properly, you can now concentrate on trimming your North J/22 sails for maximum boat speed. At this point, it’s critical to mark your shrouds, sheets, tracks, halyards, outhaul, and backstay. Keep accurate records of these settings (fast or slow), the conditions you’re sailing in, and what the other boats are doing differently. It’s essential to be able to duplicate settings from race to race and to know how your boat was set up when you were going fast.

THE MAINSAIL

MAINSHEET Trim the mainsheet hard enough to make the top batten parallel to the boom. You can check this by sighting from underneath the boom on a lateral plane. Once you’ve accelerated and you want to point higher, trim harder to cock the top batten slightly to windward. We generally recommend sailing with the top leech telltale stalling 75% of the time. In flat water, you can trim harder, but in light air and choppy water, you’ll need to ease the mainsheet ( there should be no vang) to twist off the top of the main so that the top batten is eased open about 10 degrees from parallel.

Trim your mainsheet so that the upper batten is parallel to the boom for 75% of your sailing

TRAVELER In light to moderate air, keep the traveler car to windward so the boom is close to centerline. When you have the traveler to weather, be sure to ease the mainsheet until the top batten is twisted off considerably (15 degrees past parallel). This can be most effectively achieved by pulling the traveler to windward until the car is within 2” of the windward cockpit seat.

As the breeze increases, gradually drop the traveler to reduce helm while at the same time trimming the mainsheet. In heavy winds (above 15 knots), leave the traveler on centerline and play the mainsheet constantly to maintain helm balance. Also, tension the vang quite hard to control leech tension.

Position the traveler just below the weather seat in light winds to help keep the boom close to centerline

OUTHAUL You can use the outhaul for power in the bottom of the mainsail because outhaul tension primarily adjusts the shape in the main’s lower third. A looser outhaul increases lower leech “hook” and adds fullness. This can aid pointing ability as well as increasing power. A tighter outhaul flattens the lower sections of the main, which helps to minimize windward helm and reduce drag. Remember that in flat water and light winds a flatter sail is fast, whereas in chop a slightly fuller sail is needed to give the necessary punch.

A good guide for tensioning the outhaul is the distance between the side of the boom and the middle of the shelf foot seam (a seam that runs from the tack to the clew of the main). In heavy winds, the outhaul should be tensioned tightly so that the shelf is completely closed and this seam is right alongside the boom. In medium winds, the outhaul should be tight enough so that this seam is about 1” off the side of the boom. In choppy conditions or when power is needed, ease the outhaul so that this seam is 1 3/4” off the boom’s side. Never have the outhaul any looser, except while sailing downwind, when it can be eased so that the shelf is nearly all the way open. The shelf foot seam will then be about 3” off the side of the boom.

BACKSTAY The backstay affects several different areas of sail trim and should never be overlooked as a power control. Pulling on the backstay does two things to the sail plan. First, it bends the mast by pulling on the tip, which opens the main leech and flattens the upper two-thirds of the sail. Second, it makes the headstay tighter, which flattens the upper entry of the jib and eases its leech, thus increasing pointing ability and reducing heel. Because pulling on the backstay has a large effect on main leech tension, whenever you adjust the backstay you should check your mainsheet trim and vang tension. Assume minimum tension when the backstay blocks are at rest and maximum tension when the blocks are about 1’ above the deck.

The backstay turnbuckles should be adjusted according to conditions. Ease the turnbuckles in light air so the backstay has no tension and the backstay blocks ride just below the connector plate. A small piece of shock cord can be used to help hold the blocks up closer to the connector. This cord is attached from the deck through a block on the connector plate and then back to backstay bridle blocks. As the breeze increases, tighten the backstay turnbuckles in relation to the uppers and lowers to allow for maximum adjustment. Remember that, just like shroud tension, the backstay turnbuckles cannot be changed after the preparatory signal.

 Maintain an eased luff tension in light winds.

CUNNINGHAM The main cunningham is used to position the draft of the sail. Aim to keep the maximum draft point close to 50% back in the sail (sighting from luff to leech). In up to 10 knots of breeze, you need very little cunningham. In 11-12 knots, use just enough cunningham to remove many of the wrinkles in the main. And as winds rise above 12 knots, progressively tighten the cunningham to remove all the sail’s wrinkles (a smooth luff) and maintain proper draft position in the top of the sail.

The boom vang should be slack until about 12 knots of breeze when you have to start depowering. From there, it should be pulled on snug until you want to start easing the mainsheet because the boat is overpowered. In that case, pull the vang hard (you should see the boom bending). More on boom vang tension is given in the Heavy Air Techniques section below.

Proper jib trim upwind has one of the greatest effects on speed and pointing. Usually, the biggest mistake most J/22 sailors make is over trimming the jib sheet. This sheet is normally trimmed so that the middle batten is straight aft parallel to the boat’s centerline. In light wind and/or sloppy conditions, ease the jib sheet so that the middle batten is angled outboard 10-15 degrees. Also, in breezy conditions, ease the sheet for more twist in the leech. Generally speaking, the jib leech telltale should be flying but just about to start stalling. In the bigger breeze, however, this telltale will be less likely to stall because the jib is eased. Note that trimming the jib harder for short periods of time (where the middle batten is slightly hooked to windward of parallel to the centerline) is only effective in “ideal” boat-speed conditions (medium winds and flat water) because it narrows your steering “groove.”

Like the main, be conscious of not over tensioning the jib halyard. However, never allow the jib halyard to be eased enough that there are scallops between the snaps. There should be slight wrinkles off each snap but they should not be extreme.

To maximize pointing ability, we suggest cross-sheeting to the weather winch and using the larger Harken 009 ratchet blocks if possible. These blocks will allow maximum inboard positioning for the jib sheet lead.

The J/22 is very sensitive to jib halyard tension. For light and medium breeze conditions, the jib halyard should be set so that slight “crow’s feet” wrinkles emanate from the snaps, with no scallops between the snaps. As the breeze increases, these wrinkles will become less and less visible as the halyard tension is increased, and they should disappear at about the same time you are halfway into the backstay. As the wind continues to increase, use more and more jib halyard tension. To get maximum tension for survival conditions, turn the boat downwind and let the backstay off. The middle crew should then pull the jib halyard as hard as possible.

The starting jib lead position (called the “standard position”) for the M-7 main/ angled step and rake of 4’ 11” should be where the block on the car (not the pin, but the actual block sheave attachment point) is directly in line with the mast and the shroud chainplates. In heavier breezes (above 15 knots), move the lead aft to help depower the boat and widen the steering groove. The farthest aft the lead should ever be moved is three holes aft of the standard position.

A good way to check your jib lead position is to trim the jib in so that the mid-leech batten is sheeted correctly and the halyard is properly set for the breeze condition. In that case, the foot of the jib near where the “Big Foot” sticker is (about 18” back from the tack) should be just inside the toe rail. You should either be able to see the shadow of the toe rail through the jib foot or the jib foot should actually be pressed against the rail. If the shadow of the toe rail isn’t visible through the jib foot, the car is too far back and should be moved forward a hole. If the jib is on top of or outside the toe rail, the car is too far forward and should be moved back a hole.

We suggest drilling extra holes in your lead tracks so that finer tuning on the leads is possible.

DOWNWIND SAIL TRIM

The spinnaker.

 Maintain an eased luff tension in light winds

The general rule of spinnaker sheet trim is to allow 8-10” of curl in the luff of the spinnaker.

The outboard end of the pole should be even vertically with the free-floating clew, and the guy (windward clew) should be continuously adjusted so that the pole remains perpendicular to the apparent wind.

Pole height has a big effect on spinnaker performance. An effective and easily visible guide is to position your pole so that the center seam of the spinnaker (the vertical seam running from the head to the middle of the foot) is parallel to the mast. This generally occurs when the clews of the spinnaker are at the same height.

Also be careful not to pull the pole too far aft, which over-flattens the spinnaker.

The most important trimming technique in light air is to concentrate on good communication between the helmsman and the spinnaker trimmer. The goal is to sail as low as possible while still maintaining good pressure on the kite. An easy way to monitor this is to assess the tension on the sheet. It’s important not to sail too high, which translates into longer distances, but also don’t sail too low or you’ll sacrifice boat speed.

The windward twing should always be all the way down. When sailing downwind in light air, the leeward twing is completely released. In very heavy air, pull the leeward twing on about 2’ away from the deck (so the sheet is just clearing the boom) to help keep the spinnaker under control. It is critical to make sure that the leeward twing is off during the set. If it isn’t, the spinnaker will fill prematurely and can cause the boat to create weather helm and round up.

Ease the mainsheet until a luff appears, and then trim slightly to create more apparent wind. Dead downwind the boom will be out to the shrouds. Set the vang in light to moderate air so

the top batten is just open (pointed outboard) from parallel to the boom. The cunningham, backstay, and outhaul should all be eased for maximum power downwind.

The jib should be down on a downwind leg except in survival conditions when the concern is that you won’t be able to get enough tension back on the halyard at the leeward mark. If this is the case, leaving the jib up and very eased, almost luffing, is not going to slow the boat.

CREW PLACEMENT

In light air going upwind, the crew should be as far forward as possible, with the farthest-forward person just behind the shrouds. An aft weight shift by the crew of almost a foot will help the boat steer through waves and big puffs. The skipper should sit forward of the traveler bar and as close to the jib trimmer as possible. In big breeze, the crew will be shoulder to shoulder with the farthest-forward person about a foot back from the shroud base.

Downwind in light air, the crew should again be as far forward as possible, with the farthest-forward person just behind the shroud base. In large waves and in big breeze, everyone should be behind the companionway in order to keep the bow out of the water. It’s also important downwind in heavy air to position the crew to the edges of the boat so as to keep it from rocking side to side.

Your North Sails are constructed out of the best materials on the market today. Before we made your sails we tested many different fabrics from the best suppliers in the world.

It is not necessary to remove the battens from the main when storing it. Be sure to roll the sail up parallel to the battens to avoid putting a permanent twist in the battens. Be sure to wash the sail off with fresh water when it gets salty and dry thoroughly before storing.

When rolling the jib keep the battens perpendicular to the leech. Pay special attention to the battens and batten pockets for wear and tear. Since this sail is manufactured from firm finished Dacron, problems can arise due to mishandling. Like the main, wash the sail off with fresh water when it gets wet with sail water.

The best thing you can do to prolong the life of your spinnaker is to always store it clean and dry. When the sail gets wet in salt water, wash the sail off and dry it thoroughly. Fold your spinnaker to store it if possible.

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To obtain a measurement certificate : New Boat – It comes with the Measurement Certificate partially completed by Builder. Used Boat – Change of ownership invalidates the Measurement Certificate and the new owner should in his/her interest advise his/her Class Office. A measurer in your district will contact you. If the previous owner has a valid Measurement Certificate, and you have not made ANY alteration to your J/22, submit to the measurer the information required in Part A of the Measurement Certificate together with the previous owner’s Certificate. Otherwise, make arrangement with your Measurer to have your J/22 re-measured.

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J/22 Sailboat Parts & Equipment

The J/22 is the choice of one-design fleets and institutional sailing programs worldwide, because she has proven to be a great value and a favorite among juniors and adults alike. The hull and deck are unyielding Baltek balsa cored laminates. All deck gear is first class and located in accordance with the latest class preferences. It has a comfortable self-bailing cockpit with 7 ft. long seats and room for 4-6 people in the cabin to escape the rain or cold.

The J/22 is also the key to financial success in managing public access sailing programs like Sail Newport. Such programs around the country can generate annual charter income on each J/22 nearly equal to its cost. People come back because they enjoy sailing a boat which is responsive, comfortable and dry for its size.

It is built for safety with buoyancy tanks and offshore hatches. Her 700 lb. lead keel lowers the center of gravity, creating nearly 1700 foot pounds of righting moment at 90 degrees of heel.

There are over 1,650 J/22's now sailing in 65 active fleets in eighteen countries on three continents. Recognized by the ISAF, the International J/22 Class Association promotes activities and regattas worldwide. There is a very active class web site and association newsletters. For class racing, sails are restricted to only a main, small jib and spinnaker with total crew weight at 605 lbs. There is still no better One-Design value available in a 22' keelboat

Class Specs

J/22 is a registered trademark of J/Boats Inc.

Copyright © 2024 MAURIPRO Sailing LLC.

Andrew Higgins Named Moscow Bureau Chief

Andrew Higgins will succeed Neil MacFarquhar, to become the latest in a storied succession of leaders. Read more in this note from Michael Slackman and Jim Yardley.

Our Moscow bureau is legendary.

Just consider some of the correspondents who have plied their trade there: Bill Keller, Serge Schmemann, Hedrick Smith, Cliff Levy, Ellen Barry, Chris Chivers. And consider the Pulitzer Prizes: 1989 , 2011, 2017.

So with Neil MacFarquhar (a recipient of that 2017 Pulitzer) heading on to a new assignment at the end of the summer, we needed someone who could assume a place in that intimidating pantheon of bureau chiefs with grace and ease.

We didn’t have to look very far: Andrew Higgins will be our next Moscow bureau chief.

For those of you who don’t know Andy, he is among the most accomplished correspondents of our time. Fluent in Russian, Mandarin and French, he was part of the team that won the Pulitzer in international reporting for coverage of Vladimir Putin’s covert efforts to spread Russian influence. That was his second Pulitzer for Russia coverage. In 1999 he led a team at The Wall Street Journal that won for its coverage of the chaotic world of Boris Yeltsin.

Andy is a model correspondent: Drop him almost anywhere in the world and he knows the history and the key players, and can put together an authoritative article fast.

“If you set out to build the perfect foreign correspondent, you could hardly do better than to start with Andy Higgins,” said Kyle Crichton, Andy’s editor for many years and one of the finest story editors at The Times. “Elegant writer? Check. Deep and perceptive reporter? Proficiency in several languages? A wry wit to leaven even the deadliest daily? Check all of the above.”

Andy is at once compassionate and skeptical, serious and funny. He took us to Wigan, England , his ancestral home, to better understand “working class of the mind.” He took us to Lviv, Ukraine, to explore identity by introducing us to a bar named after a 19th-century writer, Leopold von Sacher-Masoch, whose name and ideas inspired the word “masochism.”

Before joining The Times, Andy was China bureau chief at The Washington Post, from 2010 to 2012, but was based out of Hong Kong because the Chinese government refused to grant him a visa.

He began his career at Reuters, where he worked as a correspondent in East Africa, Central Africa and France. From 1987 to 1991, he was the Beijing bureau chief for The Independent, and then became the publication’s Moscow bureau chief, from 1992 to 1995. From 1995 to 1998, he was the Far East correspondent for The Guardian, based in Hong Kong. He went on to work for The Wall Street Journal, as Moscow bureau chief, from 1998 to 2004, and as a senior correspondent based in Paris, from 2004 to 2009. He co-authored the book “Tiananmen: The Rape of Peking.”

Andy was born in Britain and raised in Chicago. He graduated from Cambridge University with a master’s degree in Oriental studies and also attended Middlebury College, where he studied Russian and Arabic. He completed an advanced studies certificate in classical Chinese literature at Shandong University in Jinan, China. He and his wife, Martha Huang, live in Moscow.

In Moscow, Andy will work closely with our newest correspondent there, Anton Troianovski , who joins us in August; Andrew Kramer (who was also part of the 2017 Pulitzer team); and Ivan Nechepurenko.

Please join us in congratulating him.

Michael and Jim

Explore Further

Anton troianovski joins the times as moscow correspondent, our next asia editor: adrienne carter, [update] ‘caliphate’ wins 2018 peabody award.

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VESSEL REVIEW | Sinichka – Electric commuter boats designed for Russia’s Moskva River

A series of three new electric monohull commuter ferries have already begun operational sailings on the Moskva River in the Russian capital Moscow.

Built by Russian shipyard Emperium, sister vessels Sinichka , Filka , and Presnya – all named after rivers in Moscow – are being operated by the Moscow Department of Transport and Road Infrastructure Development (Moscow Deptrans). They are the first units of a planned fleet of 20 vessels that will serve the capital city and other nearby communities. The new ferry system will be the water transport system to be operated on the Moskva River in 16 years.

Each vessel has a welded aluminium hull, an LOA of 21 metres, a beam of 6.2 metres, a draught of only 1.4 metres, a displacement of 40 tonnes, and capacity for 80 passengers plus two crewmembers. Seating is available for 42 passengers on each ferry, and the main cabins are also fitted with USB charging ports, wifi connectivity, tables, toilets, and space for bicycles and scooters. The cabin layout can be rearranged to allow the operator to adjust the distances between the seats and to install armrests of varying widths.

An open upper deck is also accessible to passengers and is the only area on each ferry where smoking is allowed.

The ferries are all of modular construction with each ferry's wheelhouse, main cabin, and other structural elements being built as complete, separate components. This enables the ferries to be easily dismantled for transport to anywhere in Russia by rail and then quickly re-assembled within seven days.

The ferries are also ice-capable. Recently completed operational trials on the Moskva showed that the vessels can also easily navigate under mild winter conditions with broken surface ice, though year-round operations are planned for the entire fleet.

The ferries are each fitted with 500kWh lithium iron phosphate battery packs that supply power to two 134kW motors. This configuration can deliver a maximum speed of 11.8 knots, a cruising speed of just under 10 knots, and a range of 150 kilometres.

Emperium said the transfer of rotation of electric motors to the propeller is carried out by direct drive. As a propulsion installation, a pulling rotary propeller-steering column with double screws is used. The installation of double pulling screws, with similar power, allows an operator to increase the efficiency of the propulsion system to deliver a slightly higher speed or to reduce energy consumption. This arrangement also provides the ferries with enhanced manoeuvrability necessary for navigating in close quarters.

The batteries themselves have projected service lives of 10 to 12 years and are fitted with safety features such as built-in fire extinguishers and gas vents. Quick-disconnect features allow the batteries to be easily removed for replacement or maintenance.

Some of our readers have expressed disquiet at our publication of reviews and articles describing new vessels from Russia. We at Baird Maritime can understand and sympathise with those views. However, despite the behaviour of the country's leaders, we believe that the maritime world needs to learn of the latest developments in vessel design and construction there.

Click here to read other news stories, features, opinion articles, and vessel reviews as part of this month's Passenger Vessel Week.

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