long keel yachts

What are the pros and cons of different keels?

We all sail for different reasons, in different cruising grounds and use our yachts differently, so it makes sense that there is no one-size-fits-all keel design. At Sirius, however, we like to make the perfect yacht for each individual owner. One of the ways we serve our customers is our choice of keels – at least six different options for each model. It’s one of the ways we stand out – or should that be stand up?

We offer three styles of keel: fin, twin and lifting swing keel. All of our keels excel in many ways, but every design does have drawbacks – this is not unique to Sirius, but the keel affects the way you use the boat, so it’s important to choose the right one for you.

These are the keels we currently offer:

Standard Fin (310DS, 35DS, 40DS) Performance Fin (310DS, 35DS, 40DS) Medium Fin (310DS, 35DS, 40DS) Shallow Fin (310DS) Shallow Twin (310DS, 35DS, 40DS) Performance Twin (35DS, 40DS) Lifting Swing Keel (310DS, 35DS, 40DS)

Does the choice of keel compromise ocean capability?

For Sirius yachts, absolutely not. It’s important to realise that choosing one keel style over the other does not affect the yacht’s righting moment or compromise its ocean-going capabilities at all!

Whichever keel you choose, deep or shallow, twin or fin, they all have the same stability. This is achieved by putting more weight in the bulbs of the shallower keels as the shorter lever can be balanced with higher weight. Most of the blue water cruising and circumnavigations in Sirius Yachts have been made with twin-keel or reduced/shallow fin keel yachts.

Does keel choice affect performance?

As our shallow keels are heavier the weight dampens the yachts’ motion at sea, but as a downside, you have more weight to move with sails or engine. Once you’re moving there isn’t a difference but when tacking or gybing, or when not steered well, you will lose a bit in sailing performance. The shallower draught yachts also lose a few degrees to windward compared to their deeper keeled sisters, but they are still good all-round performers. Our customers with racing backgrounds always try to go for a keel as deep and light as their sailing area permits, either with a single or twin keel.

Pros and cons of fin keels

The standard keel on our yachts is a fin keel. Most sailing boats today use a fin keel because it gives a good all-round performance on all points of sail. By keeping the ballast lower it gives the most comfortable motion. The main downsides are that the draught (the depth of water required to stay afloat) is the greatest, and it’s very important to avoid running aground on a falling tide. Fin keel boats cannot dry out without additional support, either from a harbour wall or by fitting a pair of beaching legs. Some fin keel yachts are not built strongly enough to stand on their keels when out of the water, so they can’t dry out alongside a harbour wall and they need to be kept in a special cradle when stored ashore to avoid the risk of the hull deforming under its own weight. By contrast, all Sirius yachts can stand on their keels for any length of time with no problem at all.

We offer four types of fin keel. The standard fin is available on the 310DS, 35DS and 40DS and is fully cast-iron. It offers the best value, good performance, and excellent responsiveness. It is the deepest of our fixed-keel options, so if you want less draught you may want to look at our other fin keels.

We also offer a performance fin keel for all our models. This uses a cast iron fin with a lead bulb at the tip (bottom). The structural strength of cast iron means the fin is the slimmest profile, but lead is denser than iron so the same volume of lead will weigh around 1.4 times more than cast iron, giving more righting moment. The heavier, softer lead down low has less volume in the bulb so achieves a slimmer profile with less drag and therefore better performance.

A lead bulb is also safer if it hits something. Lead can absorb 60% of the energy in flexing and deformation so that only 40% of the force will be transferred to the laminated structure of the keel reinforcement. A lead bulb is very forgiving and easy to reshape and will not start to rust where the coating is damaged. We can use less volume of lead than iron, and achieve better stability than a wholly cast-iron keel. We can also reduce the depth of the keel and retain excellent stability. However, lead is more expensive than cast iron and the bulb must be attached very securely to the iron fin, so this option does cost more.

If you want less draught, we also offer a medium fin. This reduces the draught of the 310DS and 35DS by around 40cm/1ft 4in and 55cm/1ft 9in on the 40DS. Like the performance fin, it uses a cast iron fin with a lead bulb. To retain the keel’s grip in the water it has to have a longer chord (the distance from fore to aft). While this gives the boat better directional stability, it does make her a little less responsive and a little slower to manoeuvre.

On our 310DS, we offer a shallow fin option – a special version for very shallow cruising grounds. This fin keel offers the least draught of any of our fixed keel options at 1.15m/3ft 9in and draws 10cm/4in less than the twin keel version. The keel has a significantly longer chord (2.24m/7ft 4in compared to 0.7m/2ft 3in of the standard keel) so she has the reassuring directional stability of a long-keeled yacht but with better manoeuvrability.

Pros and cons of twin keels

Our twin keels are the most popular option. About 70-80% of all Sirius Yachts are delivered with them – and on the 40 DS it’s 90%. Some folk still believe there is a big performance penalty with twin keels. In the past this used to be true but it’s no longer the case with modern twin keel designs, from Sirius at least. We have conducted many two-boat comparison tests, often battling for hours, by ourselves, with owners, and for sailing magazines and we have found that there may only be one or two boat lengths of difference at the end of a long windward leg, if at all. At the end of many of these comparison tests, the crews could not point out which of the boats had the twin keel.

If you cruise tidal areas, twin keels will reward you time and time again. Not only do they give you a shallower draught than the typical fin keel, they also give you the ability to dry the yacht out, whether that’s for a motion-free night’s sleep, to explore cruising grounds others cannot reach, or just for cheaper mooring and maintenance costs.

We offer two styles of twin keels; performance and shallow draught. Both options have a cast iron fin with a lead bulb. The performance keels have a deeper draught and a thinner chord so they act and feel a bit livelier when sailing and manoeuvring. The shorter keels have a longer chord, but give you the ability to navigate shallower areas. Like all keel designs, twin keels do have some downsides. They are more expensive than fin keels, and when you’re sailing fast in choppy seas at a steep angle of heel, you can occasionally get a slapping sound when an air pocket is caught and pressed out under the windward fin. Lastly, we’ve yet to meet an owner who enjoys antifouling between the keels. Thankfully it only has to be done once a year and with twin keels you might get away with doing it less frequently. A twin keel yacht can be kept on a drying mooring, where fouling is reduced because the hull spends more time out of the water. And when you’re off cruising it’s easy to give the bottom a quick scrub while the yacht is dried out.

Our yachts will happily sit on their keels on a hard surface, like a drying grid, or for winter storage but on softer surfaces we use the rudder for additional support. The rudders on our twin keel yachts are specially reinforced for this: we use a Delrin sheave to take the weight of the hull and the tip of the rudder has a wide, foil-like foot to spread the weight.

A lifting swing keel

We are one of a few manufacturers to offer a lifting swing keel. There’s a lot of confusion with the term ‘lifting keel’, it seems to encompass all yachts that have centreboards, variable draught, lift-keels or swing keels. To us, a lifting keel boat should have all the ballasted weight of the boat in the keel, and that keel needs to be retracted into the hull.

Technically, a lifting keel is a keel that can be lifted or lowered and gives the boat the ability to dry out when the tide goes out. A lift-keel is a ballasted keel that raises and lowers vertically. A swing keel has a ballasted fin that has a single pivot point and the keel swings up into the boat. There are other variants of design, for example some have a lifting keel to reduce the draught of the vessel but they cannot dry out on it, others have a ballasted keel and ballasted grounding plate. All these examples have a keel that does two things: keep the boat upright and stop her sliding sideways. Our swing keel is designed with a NACA profile to give the most efficient performance.

Centreboard yachts have a centreplate to provide grip in the water and reduce leeway. The plate may carry only 15-20% of the ballast but the rest of the yacht’s ballast is within the hull and/or in the grounding plate. This is called an “integral keel” and is more common as it’s less complicated to build. The lower a yacht’s ballast is located, the better her stability, the more comfortable her motion and the better she stands up to her sail area. The most efficient place for the ballast is as low down on the deepest keel possible – this is why race boats have deep skinny keels with large torpedo-shaped bulbs on the bottom, but they don’t make practical cruising sailboats.

Our keel designs have more weight in the tip (bottom) – using a bulb on the fin and twin keel design and flaring the lower sections on our lifting swing keel yachts. You don’t have this with centreboard and integral keel yachts.

It might be surprising, but a lot of owners come to us thinking that a lifting swing keel is the best option for them. Sometimes it is, but about 98% of customers who approach us because we offer swing keels end up sailing away on a twin-keel Sirius.

The downsides of a lifting keel

A lifting swing keel does give you more cruising options. It will lift should you run into something and, of course, it gives you the shallowest draught. But that difference is only 40-50cm (1ft 4in to 1ft 8in) less draught than our shallow twin keel option. The lifting keel increases the complexity of the build and the final cost of the yacht; it also sometimes limits the internal layout and engine drive options, and you need to have twin rudders too. Twin rudders make the boat less manoeuvrable in a marina – you can opt for a third central rudder which does improve the handling, but again comes at an extra cost.

On the lifting swing keel, 40 and 310 owners are restricted to the use of a shaft drive, which is less efficient and you have to accept a bit more noise and vibration. When drying out, the drive is more vulnerable to damage, whereas it’s totally clear when taking the ground on twin keels. With twin keels, you also do not have to worry about something sticking out of the beach or stones lying around because the hull is high above the ground. With the hull up high, you do not have to dig a hole in the sand and slide down on your stomach to check or change your anodes as you would on a swing keel.

Sailors who are attracted to the idea of a lifting swing keel should carefully consider the pros and cons to compromise the least. When owners understand the repercussions of choosing a lifting keel yacht, many of them feel it restricts their options too much. They could have a lifting keel or they can sail with twin keels, dry out, have better close-quarters handling and save money in the process. Unless you need the shallowest possible draught – 0.75m (2ft 5in) on the 310DS, 0.9m (2ft 11in) on the 35DS or 0.95m (3ft 1in) on the 40DS – a twin keel might well be a better option.

How are the keels attached?

The design of the keel is important but the way they are attached is just as important, if not more so. All of our fixed keels are through-bolted. Every keel has a wide flange at the root (top) of the keel and the flange sits into a reinforced recess in the hull. The flange and the recess work together to spread the loads of the keel/s into the yacht’s hull. The keels are bonded and bolted to the hull. We use up to twelve 20mm and 24mm bolts (per keel) and these go through rolled stainless steel backing plates inside the hull to spread the bolt loads evenly into the fully laminated keel grid which goes all the way up to the chainplates and also carries the mast support.

For our lifting swing keel, we laminate a substantial keel box as part of the hull to accept the keel and the hydraulic mechanism needed to retract the keel into the hull. Unlike most other boatbuilders we don’t use a grounding plate to take the weight of the yacht, our yachts sit on the length of the leading edge of the keel. Integral keels with the majority of the ballast in the grounding plates move the ballast (weight) from low down in the keel to inside the hull. This negatively affects the stability as the more weight you have lower down, the better.

We also don’t like grounding plates because they bring the hull in contact with the ground. By leaving 10-15 cm (4-6in) of the keel out of the hull when it’s retracted, most of the time the hull is kept clear of the beach and anything that could damage it.

The problem with too much form stability

With only 15-12% of their ballast in the centreboard, most lifting-keel yachts cannot rely on keel weight for stability so their hulls need to be designed with extra form stability instead. This means the hull sections have to be much wider and flatter. A flat-bottomed hull is not what you want for a comfortable ocean cruising yacht; it isn’t sea-kindly or easy to steer in waves and gusty winds conditions. We don’t make that compromise at Sirius. With all the ballast in the swinging part of our swing keel design, we can use the same seaworthy, ocean-capable hull shape designed for our yachts with fixed keels.

If you don’t know which keel would be best for your Sirius, contact us to discuss the type of sailing you intend to do, where you want to sail and what your cruising aspirations are.

General Manager – Torsten Schmidt SIRIUS-WERFT GmbH Ascheberger Straße 68 24306 Plön/Holstein

Fax: 0049 – 4522 – 744 61-29

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• Yachting World
• Digital Edition

43 of the best bluewater sailboat designs of all time

• January 5, 2022

How do you choose the right yacht for you? We highlight the very best bluewater sailboat designs for every type of cruising

Which yacht is the best for bluewater boating? This question generates even more debate among sailors than questions about what’s the coolest yacht , or the best for racing. Whereas racing designs are measured against each other, cruising sailors get very limited opportunities to experience different yachts in real oceangoing conditions, so what is the best bluewater sailboat?

Here, we bring you our top choices from decades of designs and launches. Over the years, the Yachting World team has sailed these boats, tested them or judged them for European Yacht of the Year awards, and we have sifted through the many to curate a selection that we believe should be on your wishlist.

Making the right choice may come down to how you foresee your yacht being used after it has crossed an ocean or completed a passage: will you be living at anchor or cruising along the coast? If so, your guiding requirements will be space, cabin size, ease of launching a tender and anchoring closer to shore, and whether it can comfortably accommodate non-expert-sailor guests.

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All of these considerations have generated the inexorable rise of the bluewater catamaran – monohulls can’t easily compete on these points. We have a full separate feature on the best bluewater multihulls of all time and here we mostly focus on monohulls. The only exceptions to that rule are two multihulls which made it into our best bluewater sailboats of 2022 list.

As so much of making the right choice is selecting the right boat for the venture in mind, we have separated out our edit into categories: best for comfort; for families; for performance; and for expedition or high latitudes sailing .

Best bluewater sailboats of 2022

The new flagship Allures 51.9, for example, is a no-nonsense adventure cruising design built and finished to a high standard. It retains Allures’ niche of using aluminium hulls with glassfibre decks and superstructures, which, the yard maintains, gives the optimum combination of least maintenance and less weight higher up. Priorities for this design were a full beam aft cabin and a spacious, long cockpit. Both are excellent, with the latter, at 6m long, offering formidable social, sailing and aft deck zones.

It likes some breeze to come to life on the wheel, but I appreciate that it’s designed to take up to five tonnes payload. And I like the ease with which you can change gears using the furling headsails and the positioning of the powerful Andersen winches inboard. The arch is standard and comes with a textile sprayhood or hard bimini.

Below decks you’ll find abundant headroom and natural light, a deep U-shape galley and cavernous stowage. For those who like the layout of the Amel 50 but would prefer aluminium or shoal draught, look no further.

Allures 51.9 price: €766,000

The Ovni 370 is another cunning new aluminum centreboard offering, a true deck saloon cruiser for two. The designers say the biggest challenge was to create a Category A ocean going yacht at this size with a lifting keel, hence the hull had to be very stable.

Enjoyable to helm, it has a practical, deep cockpit behind a large sprayhood, which can link to the bimini on the arch. Many of its most appealing features lie in the bright, light, contemporary, clever, voluminous interior, which has good stowage and tankage allocation. There’s also a practical navstation, a large workroom and a vast separate shower. I particularly like the convertible saloom, which can double as a large secure daybed or pilot berth.

Potentially the least expensive Category A lift keel boat available, the Ovni will get you dreaming of remote places again.

Ovni 370 price: €282,080

There’s no shortage of spirit in the Windelo 50. We gave this a sustainability award after it’s founders spent two years researching environmentally-friendly composite materials, developing an eco-composite of basalt fibre and recycled PET foam so it could build boats that halve the environmental impact of standard glassfibre yachts.

The Windelo 50 is an intriguing package – from the styling, modular interior and novel layout to the solar field on the roof and the standard electric propulsion, it is completely fresh.

Windelo 50 price: €795,000

Best bluewater sailboat of 2022 – Outremer 55

I would argue that this is the most successful new production yacht on the market. Well over 50 have already sold (an equipped model typically costs €1.6m) – and I can understand why. After all, were money no object, I had this design earmarked as the new yacht I would most likely choose for a world trip.

Indeed 55 number one Sanya, was fully equipped for a family’s world cruise, and left during our stay for the Grand Large Odyssey tour. Whereas we sailed Magic Kili, which was tricked up with performance options, including foam-cored deckheads and supports, carbon crossbeam and bulkheads, and synthetic rigging.

At rest, these are enticing space ships. Taking one out to sea is another matter though. These are speed machines with the size, scale and loads to be rightly weary of. Last month Nikki Henderson wrote a feature for us about how to manage a new breed of performance cruising cats just like this and how she coaches new owners. I could not think of wiser money spent for those who do not have ample multihull sailing experience.

Under sail, the most fun was obviously reserved for the reaching leg under asymmetric, where we clocked between 11-16 knots in 15-16 knots wind. But it was the stability and of those sustained low teen speeds which really hit home  – passagemaking where you really cover miles.

Key features include the swing helms, which give you views from outboard, over the coachroof or from a protected position in the cockpit through the coachroof windows, and the vast island in the galley, which is key to an open plan main living area. It helps provide cavernous stowage and acts as the heart of the entertaining space as it would in a modern home. As Danish judge Morten Brandt-Rasmussen comments: “Apart from being the TGV of ocean passages the boat offers the most spacious, open and best integration of the cockpit and salon areas in the market.”

Outremer has done a top job in packing in the creature comforts, stowage space and payload capacity, while keeping it light enough to eat miles. Although a lot to absorb and handle, the 55 offers a formidable blend of speed and luxury cruising.

Outremer 55 price: €1.35m

Best bluewater sailboats for comfort

This is the successor to the legendary Super Maramu, a ketch design that for several decades defined easy downwind handling and fostered a cult following for the French yard. Nearly a decade old, the Amel 55 is the bridge between those world-girdling stalwarts and Amel’s more recent and totally re-imagined sloop designs, the Amel 50 and 60.

The 55 boasts all the serious features Amel aficionados loved and valued: a skeg-hung rudder, solidly built hull, watertight bulkheads, solid guardrails and rampart bulwarks. And, most noticeable, the solid doghouse in which the helmsman sits in perfect shelter at the wheel.

This is a design to live on comfortably for long periods and the list of standard features just goes on and on: passarelle; proper sea berths with lee cloths; electric furling main and genoa; and a multitude of practical items that go right down to a dishwasher and crockery.

There’s no getting around the fact these designs do look rather dated now, and through the development of easier sail handling systems the ketch rig has fallen out of fashion, but the Amel is nothing short of a phenomenon, and if you’ve never even peeked on board one, you really have missed a treat.

Photo: Sander van der Borch

Contest 50CS

A centre cockpit cruiser with true longevity, the Contest 50CS was launched by Conyplex back in 2003 and is still being built by the family-owned Dutch company, now in updated and restyled form.

With a fully balanced rudder, large wheel and modern underwater sections, the Contest 50CS is a surprisingly good performer for a boat that has a dry weight of 17.5 tonnes. Many were fitted with in-mast furling, which clearly curtails that performance, but even without, this boat is set up for a small crew.

Electric winches and mainsheet traveller are all easy to reach from the helm. On our test of the Contest 50CS, we saw for ourselves how two people can gybe downwind under spinnaker without undue drama. Upwind, a 105% genoa is so easy to tack it flatters even the weediest crewmember.

Down below, the finish level of the joinery work is up there among the best and the interior is full of clever touches, again updated and modernised since the early models. Never the cheapest bluewater sailing yacht around, the Contest 50CS has remained in demand as a brokerage buy. She is a reassuringly sure-footed, easily handled, very well built yacht that for all those reasons has stood the test of time.

This is a yacht that would be well capable of helping you extend your cruising grounds, almost without realising it.

Read more about the Contest 50CS and the new Contest 49CS

Photo: Rick Tomlinson

Hallberg-Rassy 48 Mk II

For many, the Swedish Hallberg-Rassy yard makes the quintessential bluewater cruiser for couples. With their distinctive blue cove line, these designs are famous for their seakindly behaviour, solid-as-a-rock build and beautifully finished, traditional interiors.

To some eyes, Hallberg-Rassys aren’t quite cool enough, but it’s been company owner Magnus Rassy’s confidence in the formula and belief in incremental ‘step-by-step’ evolution that has been such an exceptional guarantor of reliable quality, reputation and resale value.

The centre cockpit Hallberg-Rassy 48 epitomises the concept of comfort at sea and, like all the Frers-designed Hallberg-Rassys since the 1990s, is surprisingly fleet upwind as well as steady downwind. The 48 is perfectly able to be handled by a couple (as we found a few years back in the Pacific), and could with no great effort crack out 200-mile days.

The Hallberg-Rassy 48 was launched nearly a decade ago, but the Mk II from 2014 is our pick, updated with a more modern profile, larger windows and hull portlights that flood the saloon and aft cabin with light. With a large chart table, secure linear galley, heaps of stowage and space for bluewater extras such as machinery and gear, this yacht pretty much ticks all the boxes.

Discovery 55

First launched in 2000, the Discovery 55 has stood the test of time. Designed by Ron Holland, it hit a sweet spot in size that appealed to couples and families with world girdling plans.

Elegantly styled and well balanced, the 55 is also a practical design, with a deep and secure cockpit, comfortable seating, a self-tacking jib, dedicated stowage for the liferaft , a decent sugar scoop transom that’s useful for swimming or dinghy access, and very comfortable accommodation below. In short, it is a design that has been well thought out by those who’ve been there, got the bruises, stubbed their toes and vowed to change things in the future if they ever got the chance.

Throughout the accommodation there are plenty of examples of good detailing, from the proliferation of handholds and grabrails, to deep sinks in the galley offering immediate stowage when under way and the stand up/sit down showers. Stowage is good, too, with plenty of sensibly sized lockers in easily accessible positions.

The Discovery 55 has practical ideas and nifty details aplenty. She’s not, and never was, a breakthrough in modern luxury cruising but she is pretty, comfortable to sail and live on, and well mannered.

Photo: Latitudes Picture Library

You can’t get much more Cornish than a Rustler. The hulls of this Stephen Jones design are hand-moulded and fitted out in Falmouth – and few are more ruggedly built than this traditional, up-for-anything offshore cruiser.

She boasts an encapsulated lead keel, eliminating keel bolts and creating a sump for generous fuel and water tankage, while a chunky skeg protects the rudder. She is designed for good directional stability and load carrying ability. These are all features that lend this yacht confidence as it shoulders aside the rough stuff.

Most of those built have had a cutter rig, a flexible arrangement that makes sense for long passages in all sea and weather conditions. Down below, the galley and saloon berths are comfortable and sensible for living in port and at sea, with joinery that Rustler’s builders are rightly proud of.

As modern yachts have got wider, higher and fatter, the Rustler 42 is an exception. This is an exceptionally well-mannered seagoing yacht in the traditional vein, with elegant lines and pleasing overhangs, yet also surprisingly powerful. And although now over 20 years old, timeless looks and qualities mean this design makes her look ever more like a perennial, a modern classic.

The definitive crossover size, the point at which a yacht can be handled by a couple but is just large enough to have a professional skipper and be chartered, sits at around the 60ft mark. At 58ft 8in, the Oyster 575 fitted perfectly into this growing market when launched in 2010. It went on to be one of the most popular models from the yard, and is only now being superseded by the newer Rob Humphreys-designed Oyster 565 (just launched this spring).

Built in various configurations with either a deep keel, shoal draught keel or centreboard with twin rudders, owners could trade off better performance against easy access to shallower coves and anchorages. The deep-bodied hull, also by Rob Humphreys, is known for its easy motion at sea.

Some of the Oyster 575’s best features include its hallmark coachroof windows style and centre cockpit – almost everyone will know at first glance this is an Oyster – and superb interior finish. If she has a flaw, it is arguably the high cockpit, but the flip side is the galley headroom and passageway berth to the large aft stateroom.

This design also has a host of practical features for long-distance cruising, such as high guardrails, dedicated liferaft stowage, a vast lazarette for swallowing sails, tender, fenders etc, and a penthouse engine room.

Privilege Serie 5

A true luxury catamaran which, fully fitted out, will top €1m, this deserves to be seen alongside the likes of the Oyster 575, Gunfleet 58 and Hallberg-Rassy 55. It boasts a large cockpit and living area, and a light and spacious saloon with an emphasis on indoor-outdoor living, masses of refrigeration and a big galley.

Standout features are finish quality and solid build in a yacht designed to take a high payload, a secure walkaround deck and all-round views from the helm station. The new Privilege 510 that will replace this launches in February 2020.

Gunfleet 43

It was with this Tony Castro design that Richard Matthews, founder of Oyster Yachts, launched a brand new rival brand in 2012, the smallest of a range stretching to the flagship Gunfleet 74. The combination of short overhangs and centre cockpit at this size do make the Gunfleet 43 look modern if a little boxy, but time and subsequent design trends have been kind to her lines, and the build quality is excellent. The saloon, galley and aft cabin space is exceptional on a yacht of this size.

Photo: David Harding

Conceived as a belt-and-braces cruiser, the Kraken 50 launched last year. Its unique points lie underwater in the guise of a full skeg-hung rudder and so-called ‘Zero Keel’, an encapsulated long keel with lead ballast.

Kraken Yachts is the brainchild of British businessman and highly experienced cruiser Dick Beaumont, who is adamant that safety should be foremost in cruising yacht design and build. “There is no such thing as ‘one yacht for all purposes’… You cannot have the best of all worlds, whatever the salesman tells you,” he says.

Read our full review of the Kraken 50 .

Wauquiez Centurion 57

Few yachts can claim to be both an exciting Med-style design and a serious and practical northern European offshore cruiser, but the Wauquiez Centurion 57 tries to blend both. She slightly misses if you judge solely by either criterion, but is pretty and practical enough to suit her purpose.

A very pleasant, well-considered yacht, she is impressively built and finished with a warm and comfortable interior. More versatile than radical, she could be used for sailing across the Atlantic in comfort and raced with equal enjoyment at Antigua Sailing Week .

A modern classic if ever there was one. A medium to heavy displacement yacht, stiff and easily capable of standing up to her canvas. Pretty, traditional lines and layout below.

Photo: Voyage of Swell

Well-proven US legacy design dating back to the mid-1960s that once conquered the Transpac Race . Still admired as pretty, with slight spoon bow and overhanging transom.

Capable medium displacement cruiser, ideal size and good accommodation for couples or family cruising, and much less costly than similar luxury brands.

Photo: Peter Szamer

Swedish-built aft cockpit cruiser, smaller than many here, but a well-built and finished, super-durable pocket ocean cruiser.

Tartan 3700

Designed as a performance cruiser there are nimbler alternatives now, but this is still an extremely pretty yacht.

Broker ’ s choice

Discovery 55 Brizo

This yacht has already circumnavigated the globe and is ‘prepared for her next adventure,’ says broker Berthon. Price: £535,000 + VAT

Oyster 575 Ayesha

‘Stunning, and perfectly equipped for bluewater cruising,’ says broker Ancasta International. Price: £845,000 (tax not paid)

Oyster 575 Pearls of Nautilus

Nearly new and with a high spec, this Oyster Brokerage yacht features American white oak joinery and white leather upholstery and has a shoal draught keel. Price: $1.49m

Best bluewater yachts for performance

The Frers-designed Swan 54 may not be the newest hull shape but heralded Swan’s latest generation of displacement bluewater cruisers when launched four years ago. With raked stem, deep V hull form, lower freeboard and slight curve to the topsides she has a more timeless aesthetic than many modern slab-sided high volume yachts, and with that a seakindly motion in waves. If you plan to cover many miles to weather, this is probably the yacht you want to be on.

Photo: Carlo Borlenghi

Besides Swan’s superlative build quality, the 54 brings many true bluewater features, including a dedicated sail locker. There’s also a cockpit locker that functions as a utility cabin, with potential to hold your generator and washing machine, or be a workshop space.

The sloping transom opens out to reveal a 2.5m bathing platform, and although the cabins are not huge there is copious stowage space. Down below the top-notch oak joinery is well thought through with deep fiddles, and there is a substantial nav station. But the Swan 54 wins for handling above all, with well laid-out sail controls that can be easily managed between a couple, while offering real sailing enjoyment to the helmsman.

Photo: Graham Snook

The Performance Cruiser winner at the 2019 European Yacht of the Year awards, the Arcona 435 is all about the sailing experience. She has genuine potential as a cruiser-racer, but her strengths are as an enjoyable cruiser rather than a full-blown liveaboard bluewater boat.

Build quality is excellent, there is the option of a carbon hull and deck, and elegant lines and a plumb bow give the Arcona 435 good looks as well as excellent performance in light airs. Besides slick sail handling systems, there are well thought-out features for cruising, such as ample built-in rope bins and an optional semi-closed stern with stowage and swim platform.

Outremer 51

If you want the space and stability of a cat but still prioritise sailing performance, Outremer has built a reputation on building catamarans with true bluewater characteristics that have cruised the planet for the past 30 years.

Lighter and slimmer-hulled than most cruising cats, the Outremer 51 is all about sailing at faster speeds, more easily. The lower volume hulls and higher bridgedeck make for a better motion in waves, while owners report that being able to maintain a decent pace even under reduced canvas makes for stress-free passages. Deep daggerboards also give good upwind performance.

With bucket seats and tiller steering options, the Outremer 51 rewards sailors who want to spend time steering, while they’re famously well set up for handling with one person on deck. The compromise comes with the interior space – even with a relatively minimalist style, there is less cabin space and stowage volume than on the bulkier cats, but the Outremer 51 still packs in plenty of practical features.

The Xc45 was the first cruising yacht X-Yachts ever built, and designed to give the same X-Yachts sailing experience for sailors who’d spent years racing 30/40-footer X- and IMX designs, but in a cruising package.

Launched over 10 years ago, the Xc45 has been revisited a few times to increase the stowage and modernise some of the styling, but the key features remain the same, including substantial tanks set low for a low centre of gravity, and X-Yachts’ trademark steel keel grid structure. She has fairly traditional styling and layout, matched with solid build quality.

A soft bilge and V-shaped hull gives a kindly motion in waves, and the cockpit is secure, if narrow by modern standards.

A three or four cabin catamaran that’s fleet of foot with high bridgedeck clearance for comfortable motion at sea. With tall daggerboards and carbon construction in some high load areas, Catana cats are light and quick to accelerate.

Sweden Yachts 45

An established bluewater design that also features in plenty of offshore races. Some examples are specced with carbon rig and retractable bowsprits. All have a self-tacking jib for ease. Expect sweeping areas of teak above decks and a traditionally wooded interior with hanging wet locker.

A vintage performer, first launched in 1981, the 51 was the first Frers-designed Swan and marked a new era of iconic cruiser-racers. Some 36 of the Swan 51 were built, many still actively racing and cruising nearly 40 years on. Classic lines and a split cockpit make this a boat for helming, not sunbathing.

Photo: Julien Girardot / EYOTY

The JPK 45 comes from a French racing stable, combining race-winning design heritage with cruising amenities. What you see is what you get – there are no superfluous headliners or floorboards, but there are plenty of ocean sailing details, like inboard winches for safe trimming. The JPK 45 also has a brilliantly designed cockpit with an optional doghouse creating all-weather shelter, twin wheels and superb clutch and rope bin arrangement.

Photo: Andreas Lindlahr

For sailors who don’t mind exchanging a few creature comforts for downwind planing performance, the Pogo 50 offers double-digit surfing speeds for exhilarating tradewind sailing. There’s an open transom, tiller steering and no backstay or runners. The Pogo 50 also has a swing keel, to nose into shallow anchorages.

Seawind 1600

Seawinds are relatively unknown in Europe, but these bluewater cats are very popular in Australia. As would be expected from a Reichel-Pugh design, this 52-footer combines striking good looks and high performance, with fine entry bows and comparatively low freeboard. Rudders are foam cored lifting designs in cassettes, which offer straightforward access in case of repairs, while daggerboards are housed under the deck.

Best bluewater sailboats for families

It’s unsurprising that, for many families, it’s a catamaran that meets their requirements best of increased space – both living space and separate cabins for privacy-seeking teenagers, additional crew or visiting family – as well as stable and predictable handling.

Photo: Nicholas Claris

Undoubtedly one of the biggest success stories has been the Lagoon 450, which, together with boats like the Fountaine Pajot 44, helped drive up the popularity of catamaran cruising by making it affordable and accessible. They have sold in huge numbers – over 1,000 Lagoon 450s have been built since its launch in 2010.

The VPLP-designed 450 was originally launched with a flybridge with a near central helming position and upper level lounging areas (450F). The later ‘sport top’ option (450S) offered a starboard helm station and lower boom (and hence lower centre of gravity for reduced pitching). The 450S also gained a hull chine to create additional volume above the waterline. The Lagoon features forward lounging and aft cockpit areas for additional outdoor living space.

Besides being a big hit among charter operators, Lagoons have proven themselves over thousands of bluewater miles – there were seven Lagoon 450s in last year’s ARC alone. In what remains a competitive sector of the market, Lagoon has recently launched a new 46, with a larger self-tacking jib and mast moved aft, and more lounging areas.

Photo: Gilles Martin-Raget

Fountaine Pajot Helia 44

The FP Helia 44 is lighter, lower volume, and has a lower freeboard than the Lagoon, weighing in at 10.8 tonnes unloaded (compared to 15 for the 450). The helm station is on a mezzanine level two steps up from the bridgedeck, with a bench seat behind. A later ‘Evolution’ version was designed for liveaboard cruisers, featuring beefed up dinghy davits and an improved saloon space.

Available in three or four cabin layouts, the Helia 44 was also popular with charter owners as well as families. The new 45 promises additional volume, and an optional hydraulically lowered ‘beach club’ swim platform.

Photo: Arnaud De Buyzer / graphikup.com

The French RM 1370 might be less well known than the big brand names, but offers something a little bit different for anyone who wants a relatively voluminous cruising yacht. Designed by Marc Lombard, and beautifully built from plywood/epoxy, the RM is stiff and responsive, and sails superbly.

The RM yachts have a more individual look – in part down to the painted finish, which encourages many owners to personalise their yachts, but also thanks to their distinctive lines with reverse sheer and dreadnought bow. The cockpit is well laid out with the primary winches inboard for a secure trimming position. The interior is light, airy and modern, although the open transom won’t appeal to everyone.

For those wanting a monohull, the Hanse 575 hits a similar sweet spot to the popular multis, maximising accommodation for a realistic price, yet with responsive performance.

The Hanse offers a vast amount of living space thanks to the ‘loft design’ concept of having all the living areas on a single level, which gives a real feeling of spaciousness with no raised saloon or steps to accommodation. The trade-off for such lofty head height is a substantial freeboard – it towers above the pontoon, while, below, a stepladder is provided to reach some hatches.

Galley options include drawer fridge-freezers, microwave and coffee machine, and the full size nav station can double up as an office or study space.

But while the Hanse 575 is a seriously large boat, its popularity is also down to the fact that it is genuinely able to be handled by a couple. It was innovative in its deck layout: with a self-tacking jib and mainsheet winches immediately to hand next to the helm, one person could both steer and trim.

Direct steering gives a feeling of control and some tangible sailing fun, while the waterline length makes for rapid passage times. In 2016 the German yard launched the newer Hanse 588 model, having already sold 175 of the 575s in just four years.

Photo: Bertel Kolthof

Jeanneau 54

Jeanneau leads the way among production builders for versatile all-rounder yachts that balance sail performance and handling, ergonomics, liveaboard functionality and good looks. The Jeanneau 54 , part of the range designed by Philippe Briand with interior by Andrew Winch, melds the best of the larger and smaller models and is available in a vast array of layout options from two cabins/two heads right up to five cabins and three heads.

We’ve tested the Jeanneau 54 in a gale and very light winds, and it acquitted itself handsomely in both extremes. The primary and mainsheet winches are to hand next to the wheel, and the cockpit is spacious, protected and child-friendly. An electric folding swim and sun deck makes for quick fun in the water.

Nautitech Open 46

This was the first Nautitech catamaran to be built under the ownership of Bavaria, designed with an open-plan bridgedeck and cockpit for free-flowing living space. But with good pace for eating up bluewater miles, and aft twin helms rather than a flybridge, the Nautitech Open 46 also appeals to monohull sailors who prefer a more direct sailing experience.

Made by Robertson and Caine, who produce catamarans under a dual identity as both Leopard and the Sunsail/Moorings charter cats, the Leopard 45 is set to be another big seller. Reflecting its charter DNA, the Leopard 45 is voluminous, with stepped hulls for reduced waterline, and a separate forward cockpit.

Built in South Africa, they are robustly tested off the Cape and constructed ruggedly enough to handle heavy weather sailing as well as the demands of chartering.

Photo: Olivier Blanchet

If space is king then three hulls might be even better than two. The Neel 51 is rare as a cruising trimaran with enough space for proper liveaboard sailing. The galley and saloon are in the large central hull, together with an owner’s cabin on one level for a unique sensation of living above the water. Guest or family cabins lie in the outer hulls for privacy and there is a cavernous full height engine room under the cabin sole.

Performance is notably higher than an equivalent cruising cat, particularly in light winds, with a single rudder giving a truly direct feel in the helm, although manoeuvring a 50ft trimaran may daunt many sailors.

Beneteau Oceanis 46.1

A brilliant new model from Beneteau, this Finot Conq design has a modern stepped hull, which offers exhilarating and confidence-inspiring handling in big breezes, and slippery performance in lighter winds.

The Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 was the standout performer at this year’s European Yacht of the Year awards, and, in replacing the popular Oceanis 45, looks set to be another bestseller. Interior space is well used with a double island berth in the forepeak. An additional inboard unit creates a secure galley area, but tank capacity is moderate for long periods aboard.

Beneteau Oceanis 473

A popular model that offers beam and height in a functional layout, although, as with many boats of this age (she was launched in 2002), the mainsheet is not within reach of the helmsman.

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 49

The Philippe Briand-designed Sun Odyssey range has a solid reputation as family production cruisers. Like the 473, the Sun Odyssey 49 was popular for charter so there are plenty of four-cabin models on the market.

Nautitech 441

The hull design dates back to 1995, but was relaunched in 2012. Though the saloon interior has dated, the 441 has solid practical features, such as a rainwater run-off collection gutter around the coachroof.

Atlantic 42

Chris White-designed cats feature a pilothouse and forward waist-high working cockpit with helm position, as well as an inside wheel at the nav station. The Atlantic 42 offers limited accommodation by modern cat standards but a very different sailing experience.

Best bluewater sailing yachts for expeditions

Bestevaer 56.

All of the yachts in our ‘expedition’ category are aluminium-hulled designs suitable for high latitude sailing, and all are exceptional yachts. But the Bestevaer 56 is a spectacular amount of boat to take on a true adventure. Each Bestevaer is a near-custom build with plenty of bespoke options for owners to customise the layout and where they fall on the scale of rugged off-grid adventurer to 4×4-style luxury fit out.

The Bestevaer range began when renowned naval architect Gerard Dijkstra chose to design his own personal yacht for liveaboard adventure cruising, a 53-footer. The concept drew plenty of interest from bluewater sailors wanting to make longer expeditions and Bestevaers are now available in a range of sizes, with the 56-footer proving a popular mid-range length.

The well-known Bestevaer 56 Tranquilo  (pictured above) has a deep, secure cockpit, voluminous tanks (700lt water and over 1,100lt fuel) and a lifting keel plus water ballast, with classically styled teak clad decks and pilot house. Other owners have opted for functional bare aluminium hull and deck, some choose a doghouse and others a pilothouse.

Photo: Jean-Marie Liot

The Boreal 52 also offers Land Rover-esque practicality, with utilitarian bare aluminium hulls and a distinctive double-level doghouse/coachroof arrangement for added protection in all weathers. The cockpit is clean and uncluttered, thanks to the mainsheet position on top of the doghouse, although for visibility in close manoeuvring the helmsman will want to step up onto the aft deck.

Twin daggerboards, a lifting centreboard and long skeg on which she can settle make this a true go-anywhere expedition yacht. The metres of chain required for adventurous anchoring is stowed in a special locker by the mast to keep the weight central. Down below has been thought through with equally practical touches, including plenty of bracing points and lighting that switches on to red light first to protect your night vision.

Photo: Morris Adant / Garcia Yachts

Garcia Exploration 45

The Garcia Exploration 45 comes with real experience behind her – she was created in association with Jimmy Cornell, based on his many hundreds of thousands of miles of bluewater cruising, to go anywhere from high latitudes to the tropics.

Arguably less of a looker than the Bestevaer, the Garcia Exploration 45 features a rounded aluminium hull, centreboard with deep skeg and twin daggerboards. The considerable anchor chain weight has again been brought aft, this time via a special conduit to a watertight locker in front of the centreboard.

This is a yacht designed to be lived on for extended periods with ample storage, and panoramic portlights to give a near 360° view of whichever extraordinary landscape you are exploring. Safety features include a watertight companionway door to keep extreme weather out and through-hull fittings placed above the waterline. When former Vendée Globe skipper Pete Goss went cruising , this was the boat he chose to do it in.

Photo: svnaima.com

A truly well-proven expedition design, some 1,500 Ovnis have been built and many sailed to some of the most far-flung corners of the world. (Jimmy Cornell sailed his Aventura some 30,000 miles, including two Drake Passage crossings, one in 50 knots of wind).

Futuna Exploration 54

Another aluminium design with a swinging centreboard and a solid enclosed pilothouse with protected cockpit area. There’s a chunky bowsprit and substantial transom arch to house all manner of electronics and power generation.

Previous boats have been spec’d for North West Passage crossings with additional heating and engine power, although there’s a carbon rig option for those that want a touch of the black stuff. The tanks are capacious, with 1,000lt capability for both fresh water and fuel.

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Keel design – options to consider when choosing a yacht

by Simon Jollands | Boat Maintenance , Yacht ownership

Keel design is constantly evolving and nowhere is this more apparent than in modern racing yachts such as the Imoca Open 60 class. These fast offshore monohulls use highly sophisticated canting keels to help them stay upright when sailing upwind. The boats are designed to be as light as possible while at the same time being solid enough to cope with ocean racing.

While cruising yachts are not designed to win ocean races, there are several options of keel design available. Traditional yachts tend to have long deep keels which are an integral part of the hull, which make them heavier than modern designs, but stable and seaworthy.

Many modern yachts have fin shaped keel designs, which are bolted beneath the hull. This produces lighter, faster and and more manouevrable yachts than deep keel designs.

Below is a summary of all the common keel designs found on types of sailing yachts on the market today.

Long keel design

Long, deep keels are common on traditional yachts. They form part of the hull structure as opposed to being bolted on to the hull. They provide plenty of strength and stability but are less efficient than modern designs.

Fin keel design

A fin keel is bolted on to the underside of the hull. Fin keels vary from shallow fin to deep fin. Cruising yachts tend to have shallow, wide fin keels, sometimes with heavy bulbs at the foot to minimise the yacht’s draught. Racing yachts tend to have thin and deep keels with heavy bulbs to improve performance.

Bilge keel design

Twin, or bilge keels enable a yacht to remain upright when dried out at low tide. They have a shallower draught than fin keels, making them suited to cruising in shallow, coastal waters. They do not perform to windward as well as a fin keel and are used for cruising as opposed to racing yachts.

Lifting keel design

A lifting keel enables a yacht to stay afloat in very shallow water. Lifting keels work in a similar way to a sailing dinghy’s centreboard. They are an alternative solution to bilge keels, with the advantage that when lowered they perform as well as a fixed fin keel. Their design is ideal for trailer sailers.

Canting keel design

Canting keels are used on high performance racing yachts. They have a deep fin with a bulb. They can be tilted or “canted” out sideways to counter the heeling forces. These advanced designs are used with daggerboards and foils to further improve performance. Boats with canting keels are pricey.

When making a choice, consideration should be given to the shape of the hull as well as the keel design. The shape of the bow and stern are the most noticeable aspects of hull shape as they are above the waterline.

Modern designs favour vertical bows but in the past raked bows were more common.

On modern yachts, the scooped stern is popular as it allows for a swim platform and easy access on and off the boat from the water. In the past canoe shaped sterns and flat  transoms were popular and while pleasing to the eye, were not quite as practical as today’s designs.

When choosing a yacht, there are many design variations and shapes that will influence your choice. It is worth spending some time exploring the options and weighing up the pros and cons to ensure that the boat you buy will suit the type of sailing you have in mind.

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Keel types and how they affect performance

• Peter Poland
• June 19, 2023

Peter Poland looks at the history of keel design and how the different types affect performance

The Twister is a well-proven example of a generation of production yachts with ‘cutaway’ full keels and keel-hung rudders. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Having been a boatbuilder for around 30 years until the very early ‘noughties’, I’ve already witnessed – and even taken part in – a lot of changes in the world of yacht design and building.

Yacht design originally evolved as traditional workboats developed into leisure craft.

In his History of Yachting , Douglas Phillips-Birt writes that the Dutch, who gave the name ‘yacht’ to the world, were probably the first to use commercial craft for pleasure in the 16th century.

They created the first yacht harbour in Amsterdam in the 17th century.

When the schooner America visited the UK in 1851 and raced around the Isle of Wight, this led to the America’s Cup and the resulting merry-go-round of race-yacht design that continues to this day.

The Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 35 offers three different fin keel configurations with different draughts plus a lifting keel version with a centreplate housed in a shallow winged keel stub. Credit: David Harding

The creation of what is now the Royal Yachting Association ( RYA ) in 1875 led to the introduction of handicap rules, establishing the sport in Britain.

These rating rules – and their numerous successors down the ages – have helped determine the evolution of yacht design and keel shapes.

Many early yachts were closely based on workboats, commercial cargo carriers or even privateers and naval vessels.

Initially, the ballast was carried in a long keel and the bilges .

New racing rules of the day taught designers to seek and tweak performance-enhancing features.

Maybe racing did not always improve the breed, but it certainly kept it moving ahead.

Artwork inspired by Ted Brewer’s illustration of keel types (excluding centreplate or lifting keels)

The late, great designer David Thomas believed that fishing boats, pilot cutters and oyster smacks had a large influence on the sport of sailing.

Each type of workboat was built to fulfil a specific purpose. And many had to be sailed short-handed while carrying heavy cargoes.

So they needed to combine form and function, sail well and be able to cope with heavy weather.

Proof of the versatility of working boat designs was provided by Peter Pye and his wife, Anne.

They bought a 30ft Polperro gaff-rigged fishing boat (built by Ferris of Looe in 1896) for £25 in the 1930s.

Having converted her to a sea-going cutter, and renamed her Moonraker of Fowey , they sailed the world for 20 years.

It proves how the simplest working boat design can cross oceans and fulfil dreams.

Racing influence on keel types and design

Most early yacht designs were schooners, but during the latter half of the 19th century the gaff cutter rig started to dominate the scene.

Many notable yachts were built at that time and the most important racing design was probably the yawl Jullanar (1875).

Designed and built by the agricultural engineer EH Bentall, she had, in his own words, “the longest waterline, the smallest frictional surface, and the shortest keel”.

She proved to be extremely fast and in her first season won every race she entered. Jullanar became the forerunner of such famous designs as GL Watson’s Thistle (1887), Britannia (1893), and Valkyrie II and Valkyrie III , both of which challenged for the America’s Cup during the 1890s.

Compare the She 36’s graceful overhangs with the vertical stems and sterns of most modern cruiser/racers

In the USA, Nat Herreshoff experimented with hull forms for racing yachts and produced the ground-breaking Gloriana in 1890.

She was a small boat for the times, with a waterline length of 46ft. Her hull form was very different to anything yet seen in the USA.

With long overhangs at bow and stern, her forefoot was so cut away that the entry at the bow produced a near-straight line from the stem to the keel.

It was a revolutionary design, and nothing at the time could touch her on the racecourse.

Many French models, such as this Beneteau, have opted for substantial pivoting keels. Credit: Peter Poland

Herreshoff wrote: “Above the waterline everything on Gloriana was pared down in size and weight… and every ounce of this saving in weight was put into the outside lead.”

Early English rating rules produced the ‘plank-on-edge’ yacht, where the beam became narrower and the draught got deeper.

New rating rules were then adopted to discourage this extreme type and eventually the Universal Rule was introduced in the USA and the International Rule – which produced the International Metre Classes – took over in Europe.

Yet again, racing rules proved to be a major influence on design development.

By the start of the 20th century the big, long-keeled racing yachts like the J Class attracted a lot of public attention, but after World War II everything changed. Yachts built to the Universal Rule fell from favour.

The age of the racing dinghy arrived and the ocean racer became the performance yacht of the future.

To new extremes

A 300-mile race from New York to Marblehead saw the start of offshore racing and the first Bermuda race was run in 1906.

The British were slower to compete offshore, but in 1925 seven yachts took up the challenge to race round the Fastnet Rock, starting from the Isle of Wight and finishing at Plymouth.

EG Martin’s French gaff-rigged pilot cutter Jolie Brise won the race and the Ocean Racing Club was formed.

In 1931 this became the Royal Ocean Racing Club (RORC), which remains the governing body of offshore racing in Britain.

The ‘cutaway’ modified full keel was famously used by Olin Stevens on his mighty Dorade. Credit: Christopher Ison/Alamy

The early competitors in RORC races were long-keeled cruising boats, many of them gaff rigged and designed for comfort and speed.

But everything changed in 1931 when the young American Olin Stephens designed and then sailed his family’s 52ft yawl Dorade across the Atlantic to compete in that year’s Fastnet race.

She won with ease. Then she did it again in 1933, having first won the Transatlantic ‘feeder’ race.

At 52ft LOA, with sharp ends and 10ft 3in beam, some said Dorade looked like an overgrown yawl rigged 6-metre. But her triple-spreader main mast was revolutionary. As were her cutaway forefoot, lightweight construction, deep ballast and 7ft 7in draught.

Dorade took the long keel format to new extremes.

In the USA, the Cruising Club of America (CCA), founded in 1922, played much the same role as the RORC did in Britain.

It introduced its own rating rule which influenced the evolution of yacht design in the USA.

The Elan 333. Both the deep (1.9m) and shallow (1.5m) draught models feature an elegantly faired bulb keel and spade rudder. Credit: Peter Poland

Beam was treated more leniently under the CCA rule, so wider American designs later offered more space for accommodation and a bit more inherent form stability than RORC-rule inspired yachts.

Many famous designers of long-keel racing yachts at this time developed their skills at the yachtbuilding firms they ran, such as William Fife II (1821–1902), his son William III (1857–1944), Charles E Nicholson (1868–1954) of Camper & Nicholsons and Nat Herreshoff of Bristol, Rhode Island.

Around the same time several British yacht designers made their names, including George L Watson (1851–1904) who set up one of the earliest Design Offices and Alfred Mylne (1872–1951), who designed several successful International Metre Class yachts.

Norwegian designers Colin Archer (1832–1921) and Johan Anker (1871–1940) also joined the party.

Continues below…

Boat hull design: how it impacts performance

Peter Poland explains how boat hull design has evolved over the years and how it affects boat handling and accommodation

Sail boat rigs: the pros and cons of each popular design

Peter Poland looks at the history of popular rig designs and how the different types affect boat performance

Improve performance by understanding boat design

Understanding boat design can be tricky. We’re all familiar with the questions that arise when looking for a new boat.…

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Sailing in the 1970s was characterised by innovation, enthusiasm, mass participation and home boatbuilding. Rupert Holmes reports

In 1873 Archer designed the first long keel Norwegian yacht, but his real interest was work boats – pilot boats, fishing craft, and sailing lifeboats – some of which were later converted into cruising yachts.

Erling Tambs’s Teddy was a classic Colin Archer long keel canoe-stern design in which he wandered the globe with his young wife and family.

He proved the seaworthiness of Archer’s yachts, as well as their speed, by winning the 1932 Trans-Tasman yacht race.

Fellow Norwegian Johan Anker – a one-time pupil of Nat Herreshoff – became equally famous, thanks to his Dragon-class design that still races today.

As a new generation of designers arrived on the scene in the 1930s, hull tank testing became more sophisticated.

Long keel designs became as much a science as an art.

The leader of this new wave of designers, Olin J Stephens, had been a junior assistant to Starling Burgess who designed race-winning J Class yachts, including the iconic Ranger .

Tank testing was then in its infancy but the USA was ahead of the game and Stephens stored away everything that he learned. He enjoyed a head start over his contemporaries.

Keel types: Fin keels

Between the 1930s and the 1980s more fin keel designs began to arrive on the scene and his firm Sparkman & Stephens produced many of the world’s top ocean racers.

He also designed America’s Cup 12-Metres that defended the cup up to 1983 until Ben Lexcen’s winged keel shook the sailing world.

Many S&S fin keel and skeg production boats – such as the Swan 36 (1967), 37, 40, 43, 48, 53 and 65, She 31 (1969) and 36 and S&S 34 (1968) – still win yacht races and are much sought after as classics.

The S&S 34 has several circumnavigations to its name. Stephens, of course, had his rivals.

Among these was the Englishman Jack Laurent Giles, whose light displacement race-winner Myth of Malham had one of the shortest ‘long keels’ of all time.

(L-R) A Sigma 38 designed by David Thomas and Gulvain (1949) by Jack Giles as a development of his Fastnet-winning Myth of Malham have very different keel types. Credit: Peter Poland

The Dutchman EG Van de Stadt designed the Pioneer 9 (1959) which was one of the first GRP fin keel and spade rudder racers.

Towards the end of his career, Olin Stephens also came up against Dick Carter, Doug Peterson, German Frers and the Kiwis Ron Holland and Bruce Farr.

The development of new shaped keels went hand in hand with this rapid evolution in yacht design.

The full keel, as still found on motor-sailers such as the Fisher range, gave way to the ‘cutaway’ modified full keel as famously used by Olin Stephens on his mighty Dorade , designed back in the late 1920s.

She still wins ‘classic’ yacht races in the USA. American designer Ted Brewer wrote in ‘ GoodOldBoat ’ that Dorade’s offshore racing successes proved that the full keel is not essential for seaworthiness.

The Nicholson 32’s modified ‘cutaway’ long keel results in excellent performance and handling. Credit: Genevieve Leaper

As a result of its improved performance and handling, the modified ‘cutaway’ long keel caught on quickly and became the standard for around 35 years.

This keel type is found on numerous popular designs such as the Nicholson 32 , 26 and 36, Twister 28 and many Nordic Folkboat derivations.

The modified full keel format had a cutaway profile, giving good handling and directional stability while having less wetted surface than the full keel designs.

These yachts can perform well in all conditions and have a comfortable motion.

Even though they are generally of heavier displacement than fin keelers, they are not much slower in light airs , despite their added wetted surface area.

Their main drawback is a wide turning circle ahead and reluctance to steer astern when under motor.

Keel types: Increased stability

The modified full keel was subsequently cut away more and more for bluewater and inshore racers in an attempt to reduce wetted area until, finally, some designers took it to extremes.

As a result, much-reduced directional stability produced craft that were difficult to steer in breezy conditions, broaching regularly.

Whereupon the fin keel and skeg-hung rudder took over, reinstating increased directional stability, improving windward ability, reducing drag and restoring – when under power – control astern and on slow turns.

This fin and skeg format was later followed by the NACA sectioned fin keel with a separate spade rudder .

Soon, many performance cruisers followed this race-boat trend.

The Hanse 430 has a spade rudder and bulbed keel (draught 2.16m or 1.79m shoal draught. Credit: Peter Poland

Many builders now also offer shoal draught fin keel options and shallower twin rudders.

Some, such as Hanse, incorporate L- or even T-shaped bulbs on some Hanses and Dehlers at the base of finely shaped cast iron fins.

A new international competition had encouraged the initial development of modern fin keel yacht designs.

The revamped One Ton Cup was launched in 1965 for yachts on fixed handicap ratings (typically around 37ft long).

This spawned later fixed-rating championships for Quarter Tonners (around 24ft), Half Tonners (around 30 ft), Three-Quarter Tonners (around 33ft), and finally Mini-Tonners (around 21ft).

All these yachts were eventually handicapped under the International Offshore Rule (IOR) that replaced the old RORC and CCA rules.

The revamped One Ton Cup helped encourage the developed of modern fin keel designs. Credit: Getty

Countless production fin keel cruisers designed and built in the 1970’s to 1990’s boom years were loosely based on successful IOR racers that shone in the ‘Ton Cup’ classes.

The IOR handicap system’s major drawback was its Centre of Gravity Factor (CGF) that discouraged stiff yachts.

Once the international IRC rule replaced the IOR, more thought was given to increasing stability by putting extra weight in a bulb at the base of the keel.

GRP production boats followed suit. The keel foil’s chord needed to be wide enough to give good lateral resistance (to stop leeway), yet not be so wide as to add unnecessary drag.

Exaggeratedly thin foils are not suited to cruising yachts because they can be tricky upwind.

Tracking is not their forte and they can stall out. A bonus was an easier ride downwind thanks to wider sterns.

Keel Types: Lead or iron?

And then there is lead. Almost every production cruiser has a cast iron keel for one simple reason; it is much cheaper than lead. But it’s not as good.

Not only does it rust; it is ‘bigger’ for the same given weight. A cubic metre of iron weighs around 7,000kg, while the same cubic metre of lead weighs around 11,300kg.

An iron keel displaces far more water (so has more drag) than the same lead weight. We had always put iron keels under our Hunters – as did our competitors.

But when we came to build the Van de Stadt HB31 cruiser-racer, designer Cees van Tongeren said “No. We use lead.” “Why?” I asked. Cees replied: “If we use iron, the keel displaces more, so the boat sails worse.”

Rustler 36 long keel’s cutaway forefoot delivers responsiveness and manoeuvrability – a reason the design is so popular in the Golden Globe Race. Credit: Beniot Stichelbaut/GGR/PPL

Which explains why top-flight race boats have lead keels – or at the very least composite keels with a lead bulb or base bolted to an iron upper foil, thus lowering the centre of gravity (CG).

Some modern production cruiser-racers offer high-performance lead or lead/iron composite keels – but at a price.

Many Danish X-Yacht and Elan race-boat models, for example, have a lead bulb on the base of an iron NACA section fin.

Rob Humphreys, current designer of the popular Elan and Oyster ranges, said: “The T-keel is good if you have sufficient draught available. If not, the fin element has too short a span to do its job. This is because the T-bulb doesn’t contribute as usefully to side force as a ‘filleted L-bulb.’

“I developed and tested this shape (a blended-in projection off the back of the main fin) for the maxi race boat Rothmans in 1988/9, and have since used it on the Oysters and Elan Impressions. The ‘filleted’ keel we tested for Rothmans had slightly more drag dead downwind (more wetted area) but was significantly better when any side-force occurred; and side-force goes hand-in-hand with heel angle – which is most of the time! When the model spec allows for reasonable draught, the keel option with the lowest centre of gravity will invariably be a T-keel, with a longer bulb giving the greatest scope for a slender ballast package. An L-keel is a compromise and doesn’t suffer from the risk of snagging lines, mooring warps, and nets. [many modern production cruisers have 100% cast iron L- or T-shaped keels]. A lead bulb is preferable to a cast iron keel in terms of volume and density, but it costs more. However, a lead T-keel in a production environment will almost certainly use a cast iron or SG Iron fin, which may rust.”

The Mystery 35, designed by Stephen Jones and built by Cornish Crabbers, has a lead fin keel. Photo: Michael Austen/Alamy

Rustler Yachts also uses lead instead of iron for their keels.

The Rustler 36 long keel (designed by Holman and Pye and winner of the 2018 Golden Globe Race) has a cutaway forefoot to improve responsiveness and manoeuvrability.

The long keel creates more drag but, as with the Rustler 24, the cutaway forefoot makes the 36 more nimble than a full long keel boat, which are more difficult to manoeuvre in reverse under power.

The rest of Rustler’s offshore range – the Rustler 37, 42, 44 and 57 – designed by Stephen Jones – have lead fin keels.

As does his Mystery 35 built by Cornish Crabbers.

These offer an excellent combination of directional stability, performance and lateral stability. The yachts track well, are comfortable in choppy seas, and have good manoeuvrability, all without the flightiness of shorter chord fin keels found on many production family cruisers.

A digital future

Influential designer David Thomas said: “When I started designing, I integrated sharp leading edges to the keel; until someone told me a radius was better. Then we were all taught that an elliptical shape was better still. With the advent of computers, designers could better visualise the end-product; and clever ‘faring programs’ speeded this up.”

So where next? A combination of lighter and stronger materials, rapidly developing computer programs, a desire for maximum interior volume and low costs has led us to today’s production yacht.

Twin rudders improve the handling of broad-sterned yachts when heeled.

The IRC rating rule permits low CG keels, wider beam and near-vertical bows and sterns.

And designers now have an array of new computer tools at their disposal. But maybe there’s still that element of black magic?

As David Thomas so succinctly said: “You can design a yacht 95% right, but the last 5% can be down to luck.”

Keel types : the pros and cons

Full length keel

The Fisher 31 and many motor-sailers have long keels. Credit: Peter Poland

Pros: Directional stability. Heavy displacement leading to comfort at sea.

Cons: Poor windward performance. Large wetted surface leads to drag. When under power at low speeds, the turning circle is wide unless fitted with thrusters. The same applies to manoeuvring astern.

Cutaway modified long keel form with keel-hung rudder

Pros: Reduced wetted surface area leading to increased boat speed. Better windward performance and handling than full length keel. Rudder on the aft end of the keel improves self-steering ability on some designs.

Cons: Under engine, this keel form has a large turning circle ahead and poor control astern. Since the rudder is not ‘balanced’, the helm on some designs can feel quite heavy.

Fin keel with skeg-hung rudder

The skeg gives protection to the rudder. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: The further reduction in wetted surface area leads to more boat speed. Directional stability and close-windedness are also improved. If full depth, the skeg can protect the rudder against collision damage.

Cons: When combined with a narrow stern, this keel format can induce rolling when sailing dead downwind in heavy winds.

Fin keel with separate spade rudder

Fin keel with spade: Low wetted surface and aerofoil shapes enhance performance. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: The fin and spade rudder mix reduces wetted surface and gives a more sensitive helm – especially if the blade has ‘balance’ incorporated in its leading edge. Handling under power in astern is precise and the turning circle is small.

Cons: The rudder is fully exposed to collisions. There are no fittings connecting the rudder to a keel or skeg, so the rudder stock and bearings need to be very robust.

Shallow stub keel with internal centreplate.

Pros: When lowered, the plate gives good windward performance. The plate can act as an echo sounder in protected shallow water. There is normally no internal centreplate box to disrupt accommodation. With the plate raised, off-wind performance is good.

Cons: The plate lifting wire needs regular inspection and occasional replacement. Windward performance with the plate raised is poor.

Lifting or swing keel

Boats with lifting keels tend to surf earlier downwind. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Shallowest draught so more cruising options; can also be moored on cheaper moorings. Surfs early downwind. Small wetted surface so can be fast.

Cons: Reduced living space due to internal keel box. With a raised keel, poor directional control. Susceptible to hull damage if grounding on hard material.

Twin or bilge keel

Bilge- or twin-keelers can take the ground on the level. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Can take the ground in a level position. Modern twin-keel designs with around 15º splay, around 2º toe-in and bulbed bases perform well upwind. Good directional stability due to the fins. Modern twin keels with bulbed bases lower the centre of gravity.

Cons: Older designs do not point upwind well. Slapping sound under windward keel when at a steep angle of heel on older designs. Antifouling between the keels can be tricky. Can be more expensive than fin keels.

Wing keel: A low centre of gravity gives a good righting moment. Credit: Graham Snook/Yachting Monthly

Pros: Low centre of gravity means good righting moment. Shallow draught. Sharper windward performance.

Cons: Larger surface area means it is more likely to pick up fishing gear, like lobster pots. Difficult to move once it is grounded. And difficult to scrub keel base when dried out alongside a wall.

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5 Surprising Advantages of a Full Keel Sailboat

Modern keel designs favor fin keels, with the high-performance boats using bulbs with narrow chord sections and deep drafts. Very few full keel designs are being built today, but there is a huge secondary market of used boats with full keels. Many ocean sailors swear by them and love their full keeled boats. There are reasons they love them.

While fin and bulb keels outperform full keels in straight speed and performance, the full keel is not without benefits you can appreciate. Here are five distinct advantages of a full keel you may not know about.

• Full keels provide better tracking
• Full keels are integral to the hull construction
• Better rudder and propeller protection
• Full keels are more comfortable
• They have less draft than fin keels

There are a lot of great cruising boats with full keel designs . Before you let someone talk you out of that sweet beauty because of her keel, look at some things that you might like about that full-figured boat.

On this page:

1. full keels provide better tracking, 2. full keels are integral to the hull construction, 3. better rudder & propeller protection, 4. full keels are more comfortable, 5. less draft as other designs (but as stable), other keel designs to consider.

A boat with a full keel keeps sailing in the direction you point it. That big keel is a little harder to turn, and while that can make backing into a slip a bit of trouble, it helps to set up balanced boat trim.

With correct sail trim on any boat, sailing can be a two finger affair and only need a light touch to keep the boat on the wind, on course and fast. Constant steering and adjustment of a boat's course slows you, as the rudder acts like a brake every time you turn it.

A full keel helps, because of the boat's inherent ability to keep going straight. Setting up the rig and sails to get the boat to track like it’s on rails is a lot easier, and many full-keeled boats will sail themselves in moderate conditions with proper trim. Fin and bulb keels keels are more likely to spin out a little and require more correction.

How does this help? At least three ways:

• Fewer touches on the wheel is more boat speed . Yes, a full keel boat is slower that a fin because of the drag caused by the large wetted surface area of the keel, but keeping the boat sailing in the groove is much easier when the boat wants to keep going where you pointed it.
• It's easier on autopilots and wind-vane steering . The less you work your autopilot the better. From saving wear and tear on the machinery to avoiding overloads and over steering, the stability of the full keel helps. And wind-vane steering is a natural fit for most full keel boats, as their inherent course stability makes this a smart pairing.
• Heaving to . Stopping your boat is an important capability, whether it's to get some sleep or a shower when shorthanded, to make a repair, or to ride out a storm. Most full-keeled boats heave to easily, whereas some fin and bulb keels struggle and take more practice and still don't stop as well.

The keel and the boat are one. Well, not always one piece, but a full keel runs the length of the boat and is almost always integral to the hull construction. A grounding which rips a fin off a lighter boat may be just an inconvenience with a full keel.

Full keels run over 50% of the length of the hull and are often integral to the hull construction, with ballast inside the keel. External keels have a much smaller attachment surface and rely on high tensile keel bolts and toughened structures to suspend the keel from the hull.

Striking a rock or the bottom with a fin or bulb puts the shearing force from the collision on a smaller, more leveraged point on the hull, whereas a full keel disperses the force over most of the hull. While other keels are as strong and quite safe, the full keel is more resistant to these shearing and twisting forces because it spreads out the load.

Grounded vessels with full keels will take less damage as the boat lies on its side waiting for the tide. Again it comes down to dispersing the load - putting the load of the grounded boat over a broader area reduces point loading and stress on any one component of the boat. Most full-keeled boats will just lie on their sides, waiting for the tide to come back in instead of tipping or rocking with swells and waves.

Also, grounding may be easier or softer with a full keel. Most full keels keep running on a slope matching the curve of the hull - the transition from hull to keel is gradual, not sudden. If you hit the bottom, you aren't hitting it at a ninety-degree angle with your boat, you're hitting a ramp. The sudden stop will be more of a slide up than a slam, and this equals better protection in a grounding.

It's virtually impossible to catch your rudder on kelp or lobster pots when it's attached to the full trailing edge of the keel. And a propeller in an aperture is well protected from passing snags. If you're not motoring, it's very unlikely anything will get sucked into that space and wrapped on your prop.

It's not just protection from tangling and snags, either. Groundings can damage exposed spade and skeg rudders behind fin keels. Your full keel throws an enormous shadow for the more delicate parts of your underwater gear to hide behind, so they won't get damaged if you find the bottom.

Coupled with the tracking a full keel gives you is improved lateral stability - you roll less. While any ballast below water stops rolling by adding leverage and righting moment, the full keel uses more than just weight to slow your roll. The shape of the keel - a broad surface in the water - inherently resists rolling forces.

Righting Moment refers to a boat's tendency to come back up to upright when it's tipped or heeled. It's a combination of the movement of the center of buoyancy and the center of gravity of the boat as it tilts. More righting moment gives less heel angle.

Offshore, this gives you a better feel, more sea comfort. And sea comfort not only makes your passages easier, but in rough conditions is a safety feature. Lighter boats with fins and bulbs will get tossed and rolled in chop and waves, and that motion is exhausting. Not only do you have to constantly adjust your stance, grip and seating to handle the motion, sleeping, eating and cooking is that much more difficult.

Hours of sitting in the cockpit watching the autopilot in rough conditions can make your entire body feel you've been working out. You're always holding, bracing, and clenching something. A boat which makes the motions less violent and more natural will take that edge off. You won't have to hold and brace so much, and that keeps you from tiring as fast on watch.

The other place you'll love the stability is at anchor

The ideal anchorage is flat, calm and beautiful. But everyone likes that anchorage, and boat traffic and wakes aren't uncommon. Weather and wind shifts can make a calm anchorage uncomfortable as fetch carries over the water and makes chop. And sometimes, you just have to stay in an anchorage that just isn't that comfortable because it's the only one there is and it has chop or roll. (Academy Bay, I'm talking to you!)

That full keel stops a lot of roll and motion in the anchorage . Small fin-keeled boats thrash and roll violently when a big wake hits an anchorage, only the bigger, heavier boats are spared. But with a full keel you'll roll like a boat twice your size, spill a lot fewer drinks, and sleep better.

The size of a full keel gives some stability; with added internal ballast you can get good stiffness and stability to the boat. Other keels don't have that same size and have to take alternative approaches to get the same stability.

A fin or bulb keel is a lever against the forces above the waterline from the rig and sails trying to tip the boat. You counteract those forces with weight - ballast. With a lever, you can increase the righting force two ways - add more weight, or make the lever longer.

A longer lever equals a deeper keel.

Deeper draft equates to better sail performance and righting moment, but you can get the needed stability on a full-keeled boat with less draft . Fin and bulb keels are deeper to get the extra righting forces they can't get from the longer, full keel.

Trends in modern keel design have led to deeper and deeper drafts, which close off some waters to some boats and make navigation trickier. Two or three feet of extra draft can close you out of a lot of anchorages and gunkholes.

There are dozens of keel types out there and all serve a different purpose and excel under different conditions. To understand which keel type is best for your situation , I recommend you read our Illustrated Guide to Sailboat Keel Types , which contains the fundamentals of keel design and an overview for each keel type's characteristics (including diagrams). It will help you understand which keel designs to consider in ten minutes or less.

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Choosing a Blue Water Yacht – Keel Type

Posted Monday 29th June 2015

Over the coming weeks,  Grabau International  will take you through a variety of subjects which encompass choosing the right yacht for blue water adventures. The following guide is not written to dictate what to choose, or to supply a comprehensive encyclopedia of every option and variable, but simply a basic explanation of the main options and some guidance on what to look out for. Finding a yacht will always be a battle of your head over your heart, so the purpose of this guide is to give your head some questions to ask in the hope that an amicable compromise can be made with your heart. Part 3 of this guide looks a the question of keel type.

The type of keel fitted to a yacht is very much intertwined with the hull shape which was covered in part 2  of this guide. Keels use the forward motion of the boat to generate lift and to counteract the leeward force of the wind. In essence, the basic purpose of the keel is to convert the sideways motion of the wind into forward motion. In the case of a sailing yacht, this same keel must also act to provide ballast and righting moment.

Once again, due to the sheer diversity within the yachting spectrum, different keel types work for different purposes. Those looking to go racing will require a deep fin keel or perhaps even a canting keel, whilst blue water sailors may wish to choose from conventional fin keels, encapsulated keels, shoal-draft keels or even lifting keels. For the sailing looking to go creek crawling, lifting keels once again come to the fore along with bilge keels (although these are rarely seen on larger yachts).

Bolted fin keel

By far and away the most common type of keel. Easy to construct and offering loads of variations in profile and dimension. Attachment is usually via acid-resistant stainless steel bolts, although some use mild-steel bolts which are painted and sealed over (making maintenance and inspection extremely important). Mild steel is materially stronger than stainless, so there is no best or worst here, just make sure that they are tight and in good shape! With racier designs, a bolted keel can also be (relatively) easily removed for transport or shipping.

Examples: Beneteau, Jeanneau, Bavaria, Swan, Oyster, Hallberg Rassy, Sweden Yachts et al.

Italia Yachts 13,98 with modern bolted fin keel and ‘T-bulb’

Encapsulated fin keel

This adds a little more security over the universal bolted-fin keel by laminating (or plating) in the ballast. An encapsulated keel can include anything from a glorified bolted keel which has been over laminated, to a complete keel structure filled with ballast. Encapsulated keels usually benefit from a deep keel sump which can be useful for tank location, storage and bilge-pump location. The keel profiles of encapsulated keels tend to be slightly deeper in length which in turn provides more directional stability (which your autopilot or helm will thank you for) at the detriment of close-quarter maneuvering and fast changes in direction.

Examples: Older Oysters, Camper & Nicholson, Trident Warrior 40, Rival Yachts etc.

  S&S Swan 36 with an encapsulated keel

Shoal / Scheel keel

A simple variation of the fin keel, is where the draft is reduced by profiling the bottom of the keel to add further ballast. For tradewind sailing, a deep draft is perhaps not as important as a shallower draft at either end, so many ‘bluewater’ yachts are often equipped with scheel (or shoal) draft. Many yachts are offered with this as an option and sometimes it is possible to swap keels over if the numbers stack up financially.

Examples: Bowman, Rival, Moody, Westerly, Swan (some versions), Pacific Seacraft etc.

Rival 36 with Scheel (Shoal) Keel

Another way to reduce draft and potentially play about with ‘lift’ at the same time. Commonly adopted on larger productionyachts destined for shallower waters (Caribbean or Eastern Seaboard of the USA), but also on high quality cruising yachts in a slightly more paired down fashion (such as seen on Sweden Yachts which have ‘winglets’ rather than a full wing).

Examples: Contest, Sweden Yachts (some versions) etc

 Sweden Yachts 38 wing keel

Lifting keel (centerboard or daggerboard)

Traditionally a niche concept, but now more readily accepted. There will always be the salty-seadog perched on the end of the yacht club bar ready to damn the concept on the basis of un-favourable STIX calculations, but the fact remains, more often than not, your ballast is in the boat rather than dangling on the end of the keel; and in the ‘perfect storm’, you can wind up the keel and slip down waves which would cause any traditionally-keeled vessel to trip over herself. The practicalities at point A and point B are also fairly obvious. In tidal areas you can dry out (if the keel retracts fully or aligns with twin rudders to create a ‘tripod’ support), or wind the keel up to get over a harbour sill at your convenience. In terms of downsides, anything involving moving parts adds complication and the potential for breakage or jamming. Common sense, regular maintenance and proper usage (most lifting keel yachts can only be used with the keel fully up or down) will go a long way to mitigate these shortcomings.

Examples: Southerly, Ovni, Feeling, Allures, Garcia, etc

Classic Southerly dried out with lifting keel

Extremely rare on any modern production yacht other than perhaps the Island Packet designs. Effectively, the keel becomes part of the hull, beginning at the bow and working its way to the stern. The advantages and disadvantages of the encapsulated fin keel are all here, but amplified by a factor of 10. Not a bad option if you want to spend your days crossing oceans, but not so hot if you like spinning in and out of marinas or thrashing around the cans.

Examples: Island Packet, Nauticat, Vancouver, Hans Christian etc

Nauticat 44 with a long keel configuration

Fairly uncommon on yachts destined for bluewater sailing with the exception perhaps of the extremely clever RM Yachts range. Ideal for drying outin muddy creaks where there is uncertainty about what lies beneath.

Examples: RM Yachts, Moody (some versions), Westerly (some versions) etc

RM 13.50 with bilge keels

Canting keel

A much more recent development. Found almost exclusively on racing yachts, such as those competing in the Volvo Ocean Race or Vendee Globe. Canting keels provide considerably more righting moment as the keel moves out to the windward-side of the boat while using less weight. The horizontal distance from the weight to the pivot is increased, which generates a larger righting moment.

Examples: Open 60’s, Volvo 70, Marten 65

  Volvo 70 canting keel

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The Return Of The Long Keeler

2024 Author : Allison Derrick | [email protected] . Last modified: 2023-12-17 05:04

Lots of wood and classic lines The Västbris is like traveling back in time.

Slim hull, pronounced sheeting and a long keel, these attributes are rarely found in new yachts, the Västbris fulfills them all, admittedly, the lines from the 70s are no longer that new. It is all the more exciting which almost forgotten virtues are hidden in the little German-Swedish woman.

When casting off, the Västbris showed itself from the stubborn side, it drives backwards wherever it wants, the helmsman has to submit. With a little practice and skillful use of the lines, you can get out of any box. The neat yacht then follows every pull or pressure on the wooden tiller forwards, but it only shows its true strengths when the sails are set and the engine is silent. The S-rib cuts pleasantly softly through the waves while the boat searches for the optimal course almost automatically. We have seldom tested such a relaxed sailing yacht. Modern ships may be a few tenths faster, but the pleasure factor of the Västbris can hardly be topped. You can read in the current issue how much love goes into interior design and how you can live in the slim ship .

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Boat handling: How to use your yacht’s hull shape to your advantage

• Toby Heppell
• October 8, 2021

Whether you have a long keel or twin keel rudders, there will be pros and cons when it comes to performance. Toby Heppell explores three boats' differences

Boat handling: how to use your yacht’s hull shape to your advantage

Ask any sailor to explain the differing characteristics of hull shapes and they will be full of opinions about the advantages and disadvantages of one boat or another.

But these views are usually clouded by past experience and bias.

To a degree the vast array of opinions on offer about any given design choice support the need for such a variety of hull shapes, keel choices, rudder types and so on.

Every yacht ever designed is right for someone out there in the world.

Given these deeply held biases, it can be difficult to get accurate representations of what the compromises and benefits that come from certain boat designs actually are.

Taking a data-driven approach to this question can be a very difficult task indeed, so naturally YM set out to do just that.

Raw data may seem dull, but understanding your boat’s numbers can improve your sailing and your boat handling

We set an objective to take three types of boat, broadly reflecting eras of design, and put them through their paces on the water in an attempt to find the idiosyncrasies inherent in each design and measure them.

Although far from a comprehensive overview of all design options available, the three representative styles we settled on were: a long keel with keel-hung rudder, a medium displacement fin keel and skeg, and a modern, wide hull with twin rudders.

We felt these gave a representation of the broad direction in design over the last 50 years, though there are many permutations of hull and keel that were not included.

In an ideal world, we’d have three boats built to the same length at the same time, by the same designer with only the differences listed above to speak of.

However, our proposal for commissioning, designing, building and sailing three brand new yachts for a comparative test was inexplicably shot down by senior management, so we did the next best thing and called up three owners, each with different style of boat to come to Lymington for the day.

We ended up with a Contessa 26, Rustler 37 and Jeanneau 389, and took our chances with the weather.

Boat handling: The three yachts:

Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 389

Credit: Graham Snook

High-volume hull with lift keel, twin rudders and sail drive

• Name: Windcatcher
• Owner: Flexisail.com
• Designer: Marc Lombard
• LOA: 11.75m/38ft 6in
• LWL: 10.40m/34ft 1in
• Beam: 3.76 m/12ft 4in
• Draught: 1.10m-2,25m/ 3ft 7in-7ft 4in
• Displ: 6,920kg/15,256 lbs
• Ballast: 1,769kg/3,900 lbs
• Sail area: 70 m2/754 sq ft
• SA/disp: 19.68

Medium displacement, fin keel and keg-hung rudder

• Name: Andrilott II
• Owner: Tim Stevenson
• Designer: Stephen Jones
• LOA: 11.28 m/37ft 0in
• LWL: 9.07m/29ft 9in
• Draught: 1.91m/6ft 3 in
• Disp: 8,845kg/19500 lbs
• Ballast: 3175kg/7000 lbs
• Sail area: 81 m2/ 871 sq ft
• SA/disp: 19.31

Contessa 26

Long keel with keel-hung rudder

• Name: Brizo
• Owner: George Smith
• Designer: David Sadler
• LOA: 7.77m/25ft 6in
• LWL: 6.10m/20ft 0in
• Beam: 2.29 m/7ft 6in
• Draught: 1.21m/4ft 0in
• Disp: 2,449kg/5,400 lbs
• Ballast: 1,043kg/2,300 lbs
• Sail area: 22m2/244 sq ft
• SA/disp: 12.15

How hull shape affects boat handling: methodology

Our aim was to try to make comparisons between the styles of boat without comparing the boats themselves.

Our interest was not in finding out if a Contessa 26 outpoints a Jeanneau 389, rather trying to get to grips with the key characteristics of the different styles, what they delivered in data, and also to evaluate each style of hull with as unbiased a gaze as we could muster.

Sailing the boats against one another is always going to be difficult as the sail setup and rig has such an impact on performance.

Toby notes the Contessa 26’s data. Credit: Graham Snook

For the sailing portion of our test we chose to measure each boat’s apparent wind angle; apparent wind speed; compass heading; course over ground; and speed over ground, both up and downwind. We also set out to record heel and pitch, but in the light airs , these numbers weren’t that revealing.

This data should give an idea of how each boat was performing in the conditions and to see how close-winded each boat was and what their relative leeward drift might be.

For other factors we were more subjective and based it on how we felt each boat performed.

For the manoeuvring both in open sea and a busy marina , the data should be less subject to other forces and should give a better steer as to the differences inherent in the design choices of each boat.

How the boats sailed

On the day of our test, the NNW wind was light – in the high single to low double digits all day – and coupled with a flood tide, gave a very flat, wind-with-tide sea state.

Long, slow upwinds, and downwinds dominated by a significantly reduced apparent wind as the tide washed the boats toward our leeward mark were the order of the day.

YM editor, Theo Stocker, and I rotated through each boat noting the data, upwind and downwind , and trying to get a feel for the performance of each boat.

In light airs, good sail shape and minimal drag become more important than boat speed. Credit: Graham Snook

Clearly sacrificing so much waterline length to the other two boats, the Contessa 26 was always going to struggle in terms of outright pace.

Boat speeds were surprisingly close, however. Clearly in these conditions none of boats were reaching hull speed, so all the boats were being blown directly downwind at a relatively even speed.

Additionally in the light winds, the Contessa almost certainly benefitted from less wetted surface area than the other wider, heavier hulls.

Sailing under white sails, we decided to test each boat goosewinged dead downwind and then on a deep broad reach, replicating an easier downwind course.

In these conditions, the speed over ground for each boat is almost identical downwind .

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Thanks to the conditions, none of the yachts could really pick up their skirts.

Downwind it was surprising  that the Jeanneau was slower to accelerate than the other boats and was, in most conditions, closer to the Contessa than it was to the Rustler, despite having the longest waterline.

Clearly the wide hull, winged stub keel with swing keel extension and the twin rudders increased wetted surface area and drag, which was significant.

She also offered less feedback through the helm, with response to helm inputs being less clear, making her less positive to steer and respond.

Though it is not reflected in the table (below), there were enough moments that the Rustler struggled to get as deep as the other two boats, possibly due to her large main blanketing the headsail, that we concluded she certainly felt more comfortable sailing a slightly tighter angle under white sails alone.

It’s worth noting that in the table (below), the Rustler was sailing in much lighter conditions than the other two boats, so though her speed is broadly within the range of the Jeanneau, she was clearly the fastest on the water.

As the data shows, the wind was oscillating through a significant range, and thus the angle of tide as compared to heading varied too.

This does give us some difficulties in terms of making hard and fast statements.

What is clear, however, across all the data is that the Rustler had the least leeway consistently, presumably a product of dynamic lift from her keel.

Upwind, experiment with how close to the wind, or how free your boat most likes to be sailed. Credit: Graham Snook

It is probably less of a surprise to see that the Contessa was losing little leeway when the tide was not a significant factor, but the large surface area of her keel possibly left her more at the mercy of the tide.

It was surprising to analyse all of the data and see the Rustler losing much less leeway across all the upwinds, as on the water, and anecdotally we all agreed that the Contessa had felt much more close- winded than the Rustler in particular.

The Contessa may have benefitted from being sailed slightly freer, but it could be a symptom of her keel shape.

Where the Rustler should be sailed at pace, allowing dynamic lift from the keel to help the boat to windward, the Contessa would lose less ground to leeward as a product of inherent drag but made up for this through being closer winded.

The drawback for the Contessa, of course, being the benefit from her keel in terms of leeward drift becomes her achilles heel in terms of tidal drift.

The Rustler 37 made good progress upwind when sailed slightly free. Credit: Graham Snook

For her part, we all agreed that the Jeanneau sailed similarly close to the wind as the Rustler, but was also consistently closer winded on starboard – either a factor of the tide, or her instruments needed calibrating.

With little feedback through the helm in these light conditions, she was hunting for the breeze a little more and rarely felt in the groove. It could be this that caused the Jeanneau’s results from the day to offer the highest rate of discrepancy in her numbers, a feature we saw throughout all the data sets.

There are two conclusions to draw from this. Firstly, were it my boat, I would be having a good look at setup in terms of rig tensions , how vertical the mast is and the like.

Secondly, it seems relatively clear that in these light winds the boat just does not perform all that well.

Her wide transom and twin wheels require a little more breeze to develop heel before she would be likely to pick up her skirts and really get going.

We took several sets of data over the course of the day to provide a representative sample across a variety of conditions. Here, the data presented represent the ‘cleanest’ runs we took for each boat. As should be expected in relatively light conditions we saw some significant discrepancies in the data we got back, specifically as the wind was oscillating consistently. * 150-170o of the wind, both sails set same side

Boat handling: how the yacht sailed

This was the most close-winded on test, but with a slower hull speed and large keel, was most affected by the tide.

Surprisingly quick particularly downwind in the light weather, a product of narrow hull shape with less surface area and the light winds not allowing the other boats to use their length and reach hull speed.

Jeanneau 389

Twin wheels and rudders damped the feel on the helm in light winds. As such she was hard to sail in her groove.

We’d expect her to perform much better in more breeze, so she could exploit her more powerful hull shape.

Despite her heavy displacement, pointing to a boat designed to perform well in heavy seas, she sailed very well in light winds and for a medium displacement boat is much more easily driven than similar boats of earlier decades.

Needed to be sailed reasonably free to get the best from her.

Felt slightly less comfortable than the other two sailing very deep downwind, though with time to pole out her headsail and set up for a long passage this might be less of an issue.

Boat handling and manoeuvring

Boat handling: Heaving to

Our first manoeuvring test for the day was to set each boat up hove-to, in order to get some sense of how each might perform.

The results were relatively surprising in their similarities.

All boats behaved similarly in terms of their leeward drift, here defined as SoG.

There was a difference in how the boats lay relative to the wind, and thus how comfortable they may feel in a seaway, but we were expecting to see larger disparities here than we saw in general.

Boat handling: Carrying way

With sails down we started with some open water tests, firstly motoring in a 360° circle with engine a touch over tick over to see how quickly she would spin.

Then motoring at 4 knots, we dropped into neutral and let go of the helm.

We timed how long it took each boat to decelerate to 2 knots while also measuring how much each deviated from their course without helm inputs as it slowed.

We were not too surprised to see that the Contessa required more relative space in order to complete her turn. Without a central keel to pivot around, she is always going to struggle.

In confined and busy waters, the more speed you need for steerage, the more stressful things become. Credit: Graham Snook

It also seems relatively clear that she completed her manoeuvre quicker than the other two thanks to being significantly smaller and lighter and thus responding more quickly to engine input.

Perhaps the most surprising outcome from this test, in fact, was that of the Jeanneau. We tried the circle with both keel down and keel lifted and her time to complete the manoeuvre and the distance required were almost identical.

As for the momentum test, we conducted this into a 5-knot headwind and into tide. The relative weight of the Rustler is clear, both taking longer to slow and deviating the least.

The Contessa was a surprise in just how much it deviated from course with no helm input. We had assumed that the long keel would offer the best directional stability.

The results from the boat handling tests

Given that the Contessa had offered impressive directional stability in the sailing tests, this was clearly only an issue without the sails up.

Ultimately, we believe – and have spoken to a couple of boat designers who agreed – that this is a product of several factors.

Essentially much of the boat’s lateral resistance is well aft with a long forefoot ahead. This could be working to almost trip the boat up over herself.

Secondly, with this lateral resistance aft and relatively more weight aft once the boat does start to turn, which is relatively easy with little bow drag and significant aft drag, she can end up offering more and more keel to the turning force of the water as she turns, further accelerating the turn.

With sails up and driving or engine in gear there is more water flow over both sides of the keel to remove this problem.

Boat handling: In harbour 

Manoeuvres around the Lymington Yacht Haven pontoons did throw up possibly the most significant differences.

Though trying to be as data-driven as possible, it is difficult to go into these situations without some preconceptions and I was expecting the Contessa to be the trickiest of the three boats to steer in tight situations.

Heaving to gives a good impression of how quickly your boat will drift without steerage. Credit: Graham Snook

In order to see how the hull and rudders performed on a twin keel boat, we opted not use the Jeanneau’s bow thruster .

This is perhaps a little unfair then, but does show more clearly the impact of hull design, ignoring additional manoeuvring aids – the Rustler 37 did not have a bow thruster fitted.

Boat handling: 180° turn 

Each boat entered a narrow gulley between pontoons, performed a 180o turn and then motored back out, and repeated turning both ways.

The Contessa managed her starboard turn in a single shot, without any adjustments of the helm or engine, though this is more a measure of her relatively short length.

Even when she needed to go astern, the Contessa performed similarly to the other two boats in terms of number of helm and engine inputs and time taken.

Have you measured your boat’s turning circle? It will help visualise how your boat will respond in harbour. Credit: Graham Snook

The Contessa did take longer to come round with the helm hard over, but there was always an indication she was starting or ending a turn.

She gave plenty of warning that she was starting to turn and so was not at all alarming. In astern, we did not see a significant amount of prop kick from the Contessa, which we had been expecting.

The Rustler, though requiring a larger space to turn, felt controlled and deliberate. Keeping the speed low was the order of the day, with a light touch on the wheel and throttle and allowing enough space to complete her turn, largely thanks to her heavy displacement.

However, her combination of fin keel and single rudder meant she was very predictable, and controlled even at low speeds, making her manageable even in confined waters.

The Jeanneau, particularly without the use of the bowthruster required a particularly brave and steady hand on the throttle.

Here, the twin rudders really did work against her.

Stick a bit of throttle on and even with the wheel hard over, but without direct prop wash over the rudders there is little reaction until the boat has almost 2 knots of way in order for the rudders to provide positive steerage.

This means that, although she conducted her turn in a similar time and in a slightly smaller area than the Rustler, some of the sections of her turning required significant pace, heading in the direction of other moored yachts before the steering would kick in and she would veer away.

In anything other than benign conditions, the bow thruster would be fairly indispensable.

Boat handling: Steerage astern

Remaining within the pontoon berths we wanted to test how long it took each boat to have positive steerage astern from a standing start.

The Rustler 37 strayed from her course least in astern. Credit: Graham Snook

We conducted this test both stern to and away from the wind. The results show the relatively higher boat speed the Jeanneau needs before she gets positive steerage.

It is also worth noting that with bow into the wind, (as with the momentum test performed previously in the day) the Contessa once again picked up a significant course deviation.

Boat handling: Springing 

Our final test of the day was to look at springing off a pontoon with the engine ahead and then turning round (in an attempt to be working against the wind) and trying the same thing with the engine astern.

We timed how long it took until each boat had sprung out to its maximum angle and how big that angle was.

The angle of the bow had a big influence on springing the stern out. Credit: Graham Snook

Here we were expecting a degree more variation from boat-to-boat. Ultimately, though, we found that all the boats can spring off, but for different reasons.

The Contessa and the Rustler had prop wash and could use this to lever their stern out, whereas the Jeanneau did not have the benefit of prop wash, but its width and resultant distance of prop off the pontoon gave it more simple leverage.

The narrow beam of the Contessa made it hard to spring the bow out. Credit: Graham Snook

Springing back in was the tell for this – the single rudder boats could use prop wash to push the stern back in, but the Jeaunneau’s twin rudders could not do this.

In the Jeanneau, if you want to drive your stern in, in an offshore wind, you will need to warp in, or put her stern in first, then use the bow thruster.

How the boat handled

• Much more receptive to helm input astern than we imagined.
• Drifted furthest off course in both the momentum and motoring astern tests. Lateral resistance of the keel well aft probably responsible for this without drive from engine or sails.
• Had largest turning circle.
• Responded well when manoeuvring at low speed.
• Her mass meant she was somewhat slow to manoeuvre but was the most deliberate in her response.
• Relatively lightweight and twin rudders require active engine control.
• Occasionally unpredictable until moving at pace.
• Not able to spring back in under prop alone.
• A bow thruster (fitted but not used for the testing) does much to relieve all of the above.

Get to know your yacht for better boat handling

The biggest surprise was how similar the data from three different designs were.

The gulf between the boats lay rather in the way they needed to be handled to achieve similar results.

With each of the skippers familiar with their boats’ quirks, the same tasks could be completed, but knowing how much to sheet in, put the helm over or push the throttle was the key.

The Rustler clearly had the best pace upwind and only needed to foot off a little compared to the more closely winded Contessa, but this pointing difference felt significant onboard.

The Jeanneau lacked pace in light airs, but this should improve as the wind builds.

All the data from the tests were fairly similar for all three designs. Credit: Graham Snook

We had hoped to measure heel and pitch, but in light airs and flat water, this wasn’t possible.

How the boats feel in a seaway would help separate the designs further.

In harbour, we expected the long-keeled Contessa to be more of a handful manoeuvring astern under engine, but she was relatively well behaved and took a similar time to turn as the other two, though of course she is much smaller.

While the Contessa’s long keel gave her a mind of her own astern initially, as long as she had a little way on with the occasional nudge of the throttle she was entirely predictable. The Rustler also rewarded factoring in prop walk.

With a sail drive, the Jeanneau did not suffer from much prop walk, but lacked steerage under two knots, which would be enough to fray nerves on a windy day.

Better to line up using the bow thruster, then go for it.

Close quarters is much less stressful at one knot than at two knots, and mitigating for a lack of low-speed steerage requires forethought.

Understanding how long it takes your boat to achieve, and lose, steerage and what she will do before then is key to mastering your boat in harbour.

Harness what your boat wants to do naturally rather than fighting against it, and boat handling becomes much less stressful.

With thanks to Royal Lymington Yacht Club, Lymington Yacht Haven, boat share membership company Flexisail.com and all the owners, crew and rib driver who helped make this article and photoshoot possible.

Enjoyed reading Boat handling: How to use your yacht’s hull shape to your advantage?

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Sailboat Keel Types: A Complete Guide

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

A keel is a very important part of a sailboat, crucial to its stability and ability to sail upwind. This article will discuss the fundamentals of all keels down to the details of the best keel for your boat. We will answer questions including what it does, what it's made of, and even some problems that a keel can cause. By the end of this article, you will be an expert on all things keels!

Table of contents

What Is a Keel?

A keel is the robust underwater centerline of a boat, and often extends into a long, hydrodynamically shaped blade.. It can vary in size and shape depending on the make and model of the boat. But, generally, it will look very much like a fin. If you imagine the fin on the underside of a surfboard you will have a pretty good idea of what it looks like under the boat.

It is crucial to helping with steering and control. The word keel itself comes from Norse and Dutch roots. The word simply means a structural component of the boat. You may have heard the term keel-haul, where pirates would drag someone underneath the boat across its keel. This is pretty barbaric, but it shows just how long a keel has been an important part of the boat. From Vikings to pirates to modern sailboats it has always remained an important part of a sailboat.

What is a keel made of?

A keel will typically be made of whatever the rest of the hull is made of. If the boat is wooden, it will most likely have a wooden keel. If the boat is metal, the keel will be metal, and so on. Sometimes, particularly on fiberglass boats, the core of a keel will be reinforced with lead or a similar ballast while the outside is covered with fiberglass.

The keel needs to be strong enough to withstand a lot of pressure and strain. Traditionally Viking sailing boats would have a wooden keel with some metal plating on it. Casting metal was tedious so putting it on your boat was seen as a waste. Traditional wooden sailing boats, like you would imagine pirates sailing, would also have a wooden keel. It would be made from thick hardwood like oak and could also be metal plated.

Since it is used to control the direction it must brunt the force of the change of direction. If you imagine a boat turning sharply, there will be a lot of pressure on the side that is on the outside of the turn. The hull of your boat will stand up to this pressure easily, as it is very large and very strong. The keel must be strong enough to withstand this too. The keel also can drag on the ocean floor or the boat ramp as the boat is lowered into the water. For this reason, it needs to be strong enough to hold up to the weight and pressure of the boat too. If it were made of plastic it would break every time you brought the boat in and out of the water.

What does a keel do?

The keel is there primarily for stability and guidance. The keel provides all sorts of benefits to the boat. It improves the righting moment and controls the boat’s sideways movement. The keel will also typically hold the boat’s ballast. The ballast keeps the boat weighed down and helps prevent capsizing. The ballast is typically made of lead, sand, or water.

Keels can be fixed or moveable. Some keels can be removed completely or may just retract slightly so they aren’t damaged when the boat enters or exits the water. When a boat leans to one side, because it is turning or there is strong wind/waves, the keel provides the righting moment that keeps the boat from flipping. On larger boats, it is designed to be so heavy that ig will be able to recover a boat from almost any angle of heel. Without a keel, your boat may tip too far or roll completely. On bigger ships, this can be disastrous. In its ability to prevent this alone, the keel is one of the most important parts of the ship.

Does my sailboat need a keel?

Yes, you do need a keel. Pretty much all sailboats have a keel, with exceptions for multi-hulled and/or smaller boats.  

In the case of catamarans, the very design principles that lead to the dual-hull design render the keel obsolete. The stability introduced by the outrigged, dual-hulls replaces the necessary righting moment from the keel. Because almost all the structure of a catamaran is between the two hulls, unlike a monohull which builds out from and around its centerline, there is not a lot of weight pressing out to flip the boat. Related to this, since most catamarans have the length of their hulls pressing into the water, the steering force normally placed on a keel is distributed across the length of the two hulls, which additionally will carry their own ballast.

On smaller dinghies, a small swinging centerboard or daggerboard will suffice to play the role of a keel. The centerboards can be big enough to keep the boat flowing nicely through the water without the need for a large keel. Additionally, it is not a disaster for a small sailing or racing dinghy to capsize, as they are designed to do so and recover rather easily, so the ballast from the keel is also not terribly necessary. 

If you have a motorboat you wouldn’t need a keel, unless it is a very large container ship or military vessel. The reason being that they are outboard propelled. The leg provides enough stability on its own. This is only the case with full plane powerboats. Displacement (even semi-displacement) craft will still need a keel of sorts for stability purposes.

What are some downsides to having a longer keel?

If you have a long keel that doesn’t retract or detach, you may have some problems coming in or out of the water. The keel extends far below the bottom of the boat, so if you are bringing your boat up or down a boat ramp you may find that it scrapes on the bottom. If you are not careful, you may damage the keel rather badly.

Since the keel is made of metal, wood, or fiberglass it can bear the brunt of the weight quite well. If you are putting your boat in the water and cannot retract the keel, it is a good idea to go as far into the water as possible before taking your boat off its trailer. The deeper you are in the water when the boat is released the better.

Are there any nautical traditions about the keel of the boat?

The keel is interestingly very important when it comes to boat or shipbuilding.

Traditionally, the keel is one of the first parts of the ship to be made, as the rest of the ship must sometimes be built around it. This tradition is called “laying the keel,” and is a momentous occasion. It is essentially the boat’s birthday. The boat’s age is dated from this moment, and there is also typically a celebration of sorts. This goes back to the days of seafaring exploration. The only day more important in a boat’s life is the day it is finally launched.

Can other types of boats have keels?

Yes! Many other types of boats have keels, not just sailboats. A good example would be a big shipping trawler. These trawlers are very large and need all the help they can get to stay balanced. Because of this, they often have what’s called a bar keel. This is a large rectangular piece of metal that runs along the bottom of the boat’s hull. It is very thick and heavy. The idea is that it gives the boat some more directional control when steering.

Furthermore, it helps keep the trawler balanced when out at sea in rough conditions. The extra weight keeps the boat’s center of gravity as low as possible. This makes tipping the boat almost impossible. It does slow it down a bit, but that is a small price to pay for increased safety.

Huge cargo ships also have a keel, though it is different from a bar. Their keel is known as a plate keel. It is essentially another layer of the boat under the hull. Its only purpose is added weight and protection. A plate keel runs along the centreline of the bottom plate of the ship so the weight is all concentrated in the lowest place possible. This kind of keel works similarly to how the spine of a person does. It keeps your back strong and as straight as possible.

How important is it to keep my keel clean?

It is very important to keep your keel clean, just as it is important to keep the rest of your hull clean.

For any boat kept on the water rather than hauled out every day, there is always the need to clean the hulls and keels of any barnacles and other sea growth. Barnacles not only affect your performance, but can, in the long run, greatly increase your maintenance costs if not regularly addressed. 

To do so, you have to do what is known as scraping. Scraping is the process of physically scraping off all the barnacles and other sea life that has attached itself to the underside of your boat. Many marinas offer this service, but you can do it on your own with a basic plastic paint scraper and a wetsuit. When you do this, it is key to get all the way down to the bottom of the keel and all across the hull. If you don’t scrape it off, it can start to erode your boat away over time. It can also slow you down.The barnacles and other marine life create a very rough bottom. This creates more friction and will reduce your speed more and more the worse it gets. 

It is important to check with your port authority before you start scraping. Scraping is not allowed in some places as you may introduce invasive species to the area. It depends where you have been more than where you are. If you sailed from New York to Chicago, you will be fine. If you sailed from Cuba to New York, probably not so much.

How to maintain a sailboat keel

As mentioned above, it is important to scrape your keel from time to time. While racing boats will actually do this before every day at an event, it is at least a good idea for you to do this a couple of times a season. A great time to do this is when you plan on applying that season’s bottom paint, though anytime you plan to go on your boat is a good excuse to maintain!

You may want to cut off any of the kelp and seaweed that wraps itself around the keel. This is more likely to happen if you have a fin keel. If you do find that there is a lot of kelp and seaweed wrapped around it, you will want to buy yourself a kelp cutter. Unfortunately, the only way to cut the kelp off without taking the boat out of the water is to dive in and do it yourself. It is a good idea to do this in shallow-ish water with the proper flags displayed to inform other boaters that there is someone in the water. Swimming around under your boat, even when it isn’t moving, can be dangerous.

What do I do if my keel breaks at sea?

It is very rare for keels to just break off. It is even rarer at sea. After all, what is going to break it off? The only way a keel will break off ordinarily is if you run aground.

If you should accidentally make your way into shallow waters and break your keel off it is a good idea to set sail for home. You will manage well enough in the short term but will struggle over time. You are far more likely to capsize without the keel keeping you balanced.

If you have a detachable keel it is a good idea to keep a replacement. If one breaks off, you can just install the spare one. This isn’t the easiest thing to do at sea in rough conditions, but it is possible. Make a judgment call using your common sense whether it is worth the risk or not.

Another reason your keel might break or come loose is if the keel bolts come out. These bolts are what holds the keel in place. If you happen to have a keel held on by bolts, then doing proper maintenance is even more important. If the bolts come loose, the keel can come loose.

Since the keel is typically welded on to the boat’s hull the chances of it coming off completely are slim to none. Most often, running aground on a sandbar or anything short of an incredibly rocky bottom in heavy weather will crack off a piece or severely bend the keel, which requires a major repair. If you do notice that the keel is loose, you are better off taking it back to the marina. The bolts may not come off without using some machinery, meaning you might have to take your boat out of the water. If your keel starts to rust, you may need to speak to a professional.

What are the different keel types?

Now you know what a keel is, what it does, why it is important, and how to care for one it is time to learn about the specific types of keels. Big trawlers and cargo ships have bar or plate keels, but sailboats do not. Here are the 6 different types of keels typically found on sailboats and their purposes:

The full keel is one of the most common types of the keel that you are likely to see on a sailboat. A full keel runs from end to end of the boat lengthways. A full keel, as the name implies, runs almost the entire length of the boat. At a minimum, it must run 50% of the length of the boat. A full keel is one of the most stable keel types, which is why it is so common. Full keels are also safer should you run aground. If a boat with a full keel should come ashore, it will cut its way through the sand and eventually land on its side. Whether you are grounding your boat intentionally or not, your boat will have far better odds of surviving the ordeal with a full keel.

A fin keel is similar to a full keel, just shorter. There may be one or two fin keels along the length of the boat hull. A fin keel is defined by being less than 50% the length of the boat. The fin keel works almost entirely the same way that a shark's fin does. When you wish to turn, the keel provides the resistive force that keeps you turning. This means that it essentially acts as your tires going into a turn. Whereas a full keel is essentially just a long fin, a fin keel has very different benefits. A full keel is more stable and safer overall. A fin keel is sleeker, smaller, and most importantly makes you faster. Most racing sailboats have fin keels.

A bulbed keel is very similar to a fin keel. In fact, it is possible to make a bulb keel by shaving off part of a fin keel and attaching a bulb. Once the keel has been made substantially shorter, the bulb is fitted. The bulb is shaped similarly to how a torpedo would be on a submarine. This keel works the same as a fin keel does, offering a slightly more stability without sacrificing speed. The biggest difference between a bulb and a fin keel (besides shape and length) is where they are used. Bulb keels are most commonly used in places with very shallow waters and lots of rock/shale/coral outcrops. Somewhere like the Caribbean would be the perfect place for a bulb keel. The rounded bulb bounces off the rocks and is less likely to break off. It just isn’t going to be as quick as if you used a fin keel.

The wing keel is another alternative to your standard fin keel. Just like the bulb keel, a wing keel is an extension to the standard fin keel with an extra fitting at the bottom. A wing keel is far more streamlined than a bulbed one, at the expense of being more susceptible to breaking. A wing keel looks very similar to the tail of an airplane. It works the same way, too. The water can pass by either side of the wings, allowing you to adjust your course easily. But, a wing keel does have one major problem. If you do run aground, digging out a wing keel can be very difficult. Whereas digging out a standard fin is as simple as scraping sand away from the sides of it, a wing keel must be dug out completely. The wings act like little shovels and wedge themselves into the sand. These are generally limited to higher performance racing classes.

Centerboard Keel

A centerboard keel works similarly to a fin keel but it can retract slightly. It works by having a dagger that folds out downwards. When you are sailing, the dagger protrudes outwards and offers you all the stability and balance of a fin keel. When you are in shallow water, the dagger can be retracted upwards, essentially shortening the keel temporarily. This should be done when you are sailing in shallow waters or removing the boat from the water entirely using a boat ramp. Some centerboards work on a loose hinge. When the boat is sailing along, the dagger is out and the fin works as normal. If you should bump into something though, like some shallow rocks, the hinge would push the daggerboard back inside. This stops the keel from breaking, instead, it just moves out the way. This only works if you are only just deep enough. If you are in very shallow water you would just break the centerboard off.

Canting Keel

A canting keel also works on a hinge. Instead of working end to end, it works port to starboard. When the boat turns a corner, the canting keel swings from side to side. This allows the boat to maximize its balance and speed. Eventually, this will become the norm in racing. But at the moment it is still quite experimental. The biggest downside is that the hinge works on hydraulics, and hydraulics can fail. If they should fail at sea there is very little you can do to repair them. Once they have perfected these canting keels, they will move first into the racing classes and high performance boats, then to all new cruising boats as boatbuilders improve the technology. .

Hopefully, you now have a good idea about what a sailboat keel is,how it works, why it is so important, and, of course, all the different types. Chances are, when you buy a sailboat , the keel it has is going to be at the bottom of your list of priorities. That being said, if you are planning on sailing somewhere in particular, it is a good idea to think about what keel type you are using. Replacing them doesn’t have to be expensive, but you can go a long way to saving yourself that money either way by being prepared for your home waters!

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Robb Report

8 Fascinating Facts About ‘Kokomo,' the Lightning-Fast 192-Foot Sailing Superyacht

Posted: March 15, 2024 | Last updated: March 15, 2024

2.-SY-Kokomo_Sailing_1-064

The 192-foot Kokomo was the second largest sloop in the world when it launched from New Zealand’s Alloy Yachts shipyard in 2010. It remains the largest fast-cruising sloop available for charter. The yacht’s commissioning owner Lang Walker (who died in January 2024) was a seasoned sailor who gave all three of his yachts the same name.

The first was a 131-foot sloop, which Walker replaced five years later with a 171-footer. The same day he took delivery of his 171-foot sloop, he placed an order for the third and final 192-foot Kokomo, which he planned to use for racing and cruising around the world. He also kept the same design team for all three yachts, with exterior and naval architecture by Ed Dubois and interior by UK’s RWD.

The reference to the yacht’s name has had different explanations over the years, ranging from the pseudonym of a composer whose music Walker played as a child to a nod to the Beach Boys’s song from their 1988 album Still Cruisin’, which references a fictional utopian island called Kokomo. The island fantasy was brought to life in 2011 when Walker acquired a private island in Fiji’s Great Astrolabe Reef and named it Kokomo.

Here are eight unknown facts about one of the most game-changing sailing yachts on the water.

You’re Going to Need a Bigger Boom

When Kokomo was launched, she was the second-largest sloop in the world and carried the largest set of sails made by Doyle Sails in New Zealand. The 23,971-square-foot asymmetric spinnaker is half the size of a professional football field, while the 9,688-square-foot mainsail needs a crane to lift it. Because of the gargantuan size of the sails, the designers entered a new era of spar and winch design, having to “reinvent” the deck equipment—winches, mast, boom, rigging and sails—to cope with the 31.6-ton load on the genoa sheet and 32-ton load on the main sheet clew. The 244-foot carbon mast is the largest ever made by Southern Spars.

A Hidden Lifting Keel

The yacht’s 130-ton lifting keel is one of its most impressive features, though it’s largely left to the imagination. The interior layout is carefully designed so that the keel structure remains hidden. Dubois Naval Architects positioned the keel box to come above the main deck, serving as a partial separation between the bridge and the main salon (see inset). Kokomo was only the second yacht to be fitted with a lifting a keel, the first being 246-foot M5 (ex-Mirabella V), the world’s largest single-masted sailing yacht. This innovative design shortens Kokomo’s 28.5-foot draft when the keel is fully extended, to just 15 feet for shallow waters.

Now You See It, Now You Don’t

Kokomo might be big on technology, but never at the expense of design. The wheelhouse has fold-down computer screens that conceal the navigation equipment when not in use, converting to beautiful carbon counter tops. This design sleight of hand transforms a highly technical area into a tony lounge. It’s a theme that extends to the foredeck, where the yacht’s two tenders are concealed in dedicated lockers. There’s also a fully retractable tender crane that launches the tenders from either side of the boat but disappears out of sight when guests are using the Jacuzzi. “The designated deck lockers were an advanced feature at the time of her launch,” says Wynne, adding that another bonus is that diesel tanks are fully available. “The tenders can be fueled onboard before launching.”

It Takes Just A Few Good Sailors

Kokomo can accommodate up to 10 crew in total, but theoretically it only takes two to sail—a helm person and a sail trimmer. That sounds almost impossible given the size and complexity of yacht. But all sails are controlled by joystick on the flybridge. And when the boat is in full-on racing mode, there are control stations on both sides, providing visibility of the sails. Thanks to the hydraulics system, the mainsail can be hoisted and lowered on a wireless remote control. Of course, maneuvers like stowing the massive genoa can never be automated. That’s a job for a half-dozen good sailors.

Art On Board

The hallway that leads to the owner’s cabin is lined with a mosaic tapestry made from sea glass woven together with wire. Backlit to create an unusual effect, it’s just one of the eclectic works of art that decorates the interior. The main salon also has a stunning and colorful work of glass art as another example.

Interior Matters

Kokomo is not all tech features. The yacht’s modern interiors combine dark wood floors and calming cream furnishings start in the main salon and continue across the five guest cabins. Penned by British studio Redman Whiteley Dixon, the design carefully wraps around the lifting keel without sacrificing or impeding on any interior guest space. The yacht accommodates up to 10 guests in a master suite, VIP, one double cabin and two twins. There are other accommodations for up to 10 crew. On the foredeck, the Jacuzzi brings another element of outdoor entertainment, bolstered by a sunken cockpit.

World Traveler

The mandate issued by Walker was to create a yacht that was a “quantum leap forward” from his previous yachts, with superior sailing characteristics and guest comfort. The mast’s height is too tall to sail through the Panama or Suez Canals, which meant it would have to be designed to sail around Cape Horn and the Cape of Good Hope to reach the Caribbean and Mediterranean. The maiden voyage took the yacht from the New Zealand shipyard to Australia, New Caledonia, the Solomon Islands, and Fiji. It also spent time at Walker’s private island (pictured above), also named Kokomo. The vessel has since spent many years exploring the Caribbean and Med. It’s based in both regions during the respective cruising seasons, with charters available through Cecil Wright.

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• Yachting Monthly's Scuttlebutt

What's the fascination with long keels?

• Thread starter john_morris_uk
• Start date 20 Feb 2012
• 20 Feb 2012

john_morris_uk

Well-known member.

I am trying to work out why so many people put 'long keel' as a really desirable aspect of a blue water boat? I am going to suggest that it doesn't make much sense any more when you compare it with lots of more modern fin keeled designs - and it might be argued that fin keels actually make a lot more sense. I am not claiming some great insight, but I have owned long keeled boats, and I have sailed across oceans in fin and long keeled boats so I suppose I have some experience and first hand knowledge. The key aspect as far as I can see is the overall shape of the hull - NOT whether the thing has a long keel or not. Long keeled boats are often slower and I suggest in the whole sailing experience their ability to track and sail themselves is as much a hindrance as a help. I have this deep feeling that in the days before reliable autopilots and self steering, a long keel and the ability to stay on course was what sold the thing to the long distance sailor, but self steering (mechanical or electric) is very much more reliable nowadays and perhaps the the small occasional gain in directional stability is completely outweighed by the disadvantages of less then sparkling performance and the difficulties of maeuvering under power. Some people will say that the auto-pilot will be working harder, but I am not advocating a radical fin keeled racing machine - rather a more staid fin keeled boat that behaves itself in a seaway, in the same way that a long keeled boat sometimes can. Futhermore, people setting off on blue water sailing seem to forget that the vast majority of their time will be at anchor and they will only spend a relatively short period of time in the overall scheme of things actually sailing across the oceans. Of course being safe and sensible when sailing the ocean is a good thing, but if the design of the boat takes much of the pleasure out of sailing around the area when you get somewhere, then what's the point? I have known people who through planning and care have sailed round the world and have never been in much above a force 6. The long keeled boat might heave to very comfortably, but I will suggest that a decent fin keeled boat can be just as comfortable if its well sorted and balanced. It also shortens passage time, and as the tedious part of the long distance passage is the days and days at sea, so anything that reduces that by a day or two gets my vote. I have this suspicion that some of the people who advocate long keels are more armchair sailors than actual sailors. The wisdom is regurgitated because its what Slocum said when he sailed Spray etc etc. But times have moved on and so long as your fin keeled boat is not too radical and flighty downwind, then why not enjoy the extra volume inside, the predictable handling under power and sail, and the increased performance that come from a modern fin keeled boat? Sadly some people's opinion of fin keeled boats is based on the fat bottomed horrors that are produced for occasional light wind sailing, and whose performnce under sail is an (predictably) unpredictable nightmare of broaches and rounding up in the smallest of gusts. So there's my two pennyworth - and you can shoot me down at will. I'll take comments more seriously from those who have owned/sailed boats with both sorts of keel though!  

I think you are right that we mix up the slamming and rudder trips of a modern shaped boat with the effect of a fin keel. I wonder how many traditional shaped hulls there are with a fin keel? I'd have to go back to Contessas as an example of sea kindliness with a fin.  

Active member

I don't see anything to argue with there. Long keels will take the ground better than some fin keel designs, and an unprotected and unsupported spade rudder can be a worry, but all boats are a compromise.  

Twister_Ken

I'll add one thing (well maybe two or three). Long keel designs generally mean deep bilges - a little bit of bilge water doesn't wash around, upsetting the inhabitants. It also provides a useful cellar for storage. With a long keeler, as general rule, your feet are further below the surface of the water. On my Twister, I reckoned when I was downstairs I was effectively about waist deep. On the Arcona, I doubt that I'm knee deep. Strangely, deeper feels more comfortable - maybe something to do with a smaller arc that one's head moves through when the boat moves. And then, it's very difficult to knock the keel off of a longie. And they're quite good at shrugging off potlines that are threatening the prop or rudder. And you've got full depth support for the rudder too, so that's less likely to come a cropper.  

Long fin? I sometimes think a "long fin" keel is a good compromise, as in the Rustler 42 (not that I could afford one, but plenty of other boats have longish fins). With a short fin, although you've got less drag and they are easier to manoeuvre (especially in reverse, which admittedly is no problem mid-ocean!), I worry about keel tripping if hitting a sandbank, or indeed the effect of colliding with a submerged shipping container. You've only got a few bolts holding the keel on, and if it falls off you're in trouble (plus even if it doesn't, you could weaken the boat's structure). Plus the unsupported spade rudder is anathema to me - I'd never have a boat with one, as they are so vulnerable.  

Well I've only been offshore on my own long keel boat so can't really compare what offshore is like in a fin. But it certainly is easy to balance the sails, tracks great and heaves to nicely. You counter your own argument about maybe being a little slower by saying that overall hardly any time is spent on passage anyway. But on top of that is strength. Though mine is steel so solid as a rock anyway. Then in addition is having the rubustness of a transom hung rudder with the prop in an aperture a little safer from stray ropes and nets. Don't think I'd sleep well at all offshore on a boat with an exposed spade rudder. And again on top of all a factor might be that the older designs which are built much heavier than they are these days were just made that way.  

The earlier posts sum it up nicely. For peace of mind a long keel boat has inbuilt features that make it less likely for certain potentialy serious problems to happen. Our long keel heavy cutter is slow and not close winded. But when lightweight fin keelers are reefing she picks up and goes and has a very nice motion without any slamming. We are happy with our chosen compromise.  

john_morris_uk said: I am trying to work out why so many people put 'long keel' as a really desirable aspect of a blue water boat? I am going to suggest that it doesn't make much sense any more when you compare it with lots of more modern fin keeled designs - and it might be argued that fin keels actually make a lot more sense. I am not claiming some great insight, but I have owned long keeled boats, and I have sailed across oceans in fin and long keeled boats so I suppose I have some experience and first hand knowledge. The key aspect as far as I can see is the overall shape of the hull - NOT whether the thing has a long keel or not. Long keeled boats are often slower and I suggest in the whole sailing experience their ability to track and sail themselves is as much a hindrance as a help. I have this deep feeling that in the days before reliable autopilots and self steering, a long keel and the ability to stay on course was what sold the thing to the long distance sailor, but self steering (mechanical or electric) is very much more reliable nowadays and perhaps the the small occasional gain in directional stability is completely outweighed by the disadvantages of less then sparkling performance and the difficulties of maeuvering under power. Some people will say that the auto-pilot will be working harder, but I am not advocating a radical fin keeled racing machine - rather a more staid fin keeled boat that behaves itself in a seaway, in the same way that a long keeled boat sometimes can. Futhermore, people setting off on blue water sailing seem to forget that the vast majority of their time will be at anchor and they will only spend a relatively short period of time in the overall scheme of things actually sailing across the oceans. Of course being safe and sensible when sailing the ocean is a good thing, but if the design of the boat takes much of the pleasure out of sailing around the area when you get somewhere, then what's the point? I have known people who through planning and care have sailed round the world and have never been in much above a force 6. The long keeled boat might heave to very comfortably, but I will suggest that a decent fin keeled boat can be just as comfortable if its well sorted and balanced. It also shortens passage time, and as the tedious part of the long distance passage is the days and days at sea, so anything that reduces that by a day or two gets my vote. I have this suspicion that some of the people who advocate long keels are more armchair sailors than actual sailors. The wisdom is regurgitated because its what Slocum said when he sailed Spray etc etc. But times have moved on and so long as your fin keeled boat is not too radical and flighty downwind, then why not enjoy the extra volume inside, the predictable handling under power and sail, and the increased performance that come from a modern fin keeled boat? Sadly some people's opinion of fin keeled boats is based on the fat bottomed horrors that are produced for occasional light wind sailing, and whose performnce under sail is an (predictably) unpredictable nightmare of broaches and rounding up in the smallest of gusts. So there's my two pennyworth - and you can shoot me down at will. I'll take comments more seriously from those who have owned/sailed boats with both sorts of keel though! Click to expand...

I hope no-one minds my offering an opinion. I might be thought to be a bit of an armchair sailor given that my current boat has, err, two large diesels and zero sails. But for what it's worth I would suggest that the key attribute in terms of sea-kindliness is the ability to heave to. I think that if one classified the long keelers and the fin keelers which can be hove-to on the one hand and the fin keelers which can't on the other, then one might be mking a useful distinction. I think this might be what the OP was suggesting anyway so it's probably time for me to slink back to my dieselly lair.  

LouisBrowne

I do not think that a long keel is a guarantee of directional stability; the only long keeler I have owned suffered quite badly from weather helm and was not at all pleasant to steer. I don't think this is unique: Maurice Griffiths talks of using tiller lines to provide purchase to ease the strain of steering (though this might have as much to do with using a tiller to turn a rudder the size and shape of a barn door). Long keelers don't need to reef as early as flatter-bottomed fin keelers but this comes at the expense of light-airs speed. Also, although a long-keeler will carry on upwind for longer without broaching, this does not mean that they heel any less, in fact the slack-bilged narrow designs of the fifties and early sixties sail at much greater angles of heel than more modern fin keelers with more form stability. I shudder at the memory of beating down channel for three days at an angle of 40 degrees. Uncomfortable and exhausting. As to unsupported spade rudders, such advances have been made in engineering over the last twenty years that I think they would now be safe for the purposes for which the yacht is intended provided she is from a reputable designer and builder.  

Having owned one long keeler - a Victory 40, and now a not so extreme fin and spade rudder Westerly Oceanlord, I would have these observations. 1. The Victory would stay straight as a die on reaches broad reaches and running, so if you were doing 8 knots, you covered 8 knots. The Oceanlord whilst being easy to helm down wind, has a tendency to sail a track that looks like a snake has been there. So 8 knots is not what you get. The Victory was the only boat I managed 200 miles in 24 hours. (she's a motor sailer) 2. Off wind sailing is harder for the helmsman with the Oceanlord, though not as impossible as a Bav38 holiday I sailed once. The Victory had no tendency to broach - at least I never had one even under spinnaker. 3. The Oceanlord is much nicer for living on, though holds less fuel 45Gals (200 gals) water 100 gal (200 gals) What would I ideally like? A boat designed by Vandestatt with the cut away forefoot long keel and balanced rudder of the Victory and the accommodation of the oceanlord.  

rotrax said: The earlier posts sum it up nicely. For peace of mind a long keel boat has inbuilt features that make it less likely for certain potentialy serious problems to happen. Our long keel heavy cutter is slow and not close winded. But when lightweight fin keelers are reefing she picks up and goes and has a very nice motion without any slamming. We are happy with our chosen compromise. Click to expand...

Twister_Ken said: I'll add one thing (well maybe two or three). Long keel designs generally mean deep bilges - a little bit of bilge water doesn't wash around, upsetting the inhabitants. It also provides a useful cellar for storage. With a long keeler, as general rule, your feet are further below the surface of the water. On my Twister, I reckoned when I was downstairs I was effectively about waist deep. On the Arcona, I doubt that I'm knee deep. Strangely, deeper feels more comfortable - maybe something to do with a smaller arc that one's head moves through when the boat moves. And then, it's very difficult to knock the keel off of a longie. And they're quite good at shrugging off potlines that are threatening the prop or rudder. And you've got full depth support for the rudder too, so that's less likely to come a cropper. Click to expand...

john_morris_uk said: I have this suspicion that some of the people who advocate long keels are more armchair sailors than actual sailors. Click to expand...

Conachair said: Well I've only been offshore on my own long keel boat so can't really compare what offshore is like in a fin. But it certainly is easy to balance the sails, tracks great and heaves to nicely. You counter your own argument about maybe being a little slower by saying that overall hardly any time is spent on passage anyway. But on top of that is strength. Though mine is steel so solid as a rock anyway. Then in addition is having the rubustness of a transom hung rudder with the prop in an aperture a little safer from stray ropes and nets. Don't think I'd sleep well at all offshore on a boat with an exposed spade rudder. And again on top of all a factor might be that the older designs which are built much heavier than they are these days were just made that way. Click to expand...

John, I'm with you all the way on this one ! I've sailed a few long keel boats, and the term 'wetted area drag' springs to mind. The much vaunted longitudinal steering stability is pretty much an urban myth too; my Anderson with a rather narrow chord keel sails herself, it's all a matter of set-up and balance. Short fins aren't always brilliant, such as when drying out; attention is required - my Carter 30 tried to sit on her back end, requiring ropes under the stern holding her level - and some examples like Listangs can't take the point loading on the hull but I think they're rare nowadays, tending to be 1960's-70's types. Fin keels are a result of Darwinian evolution; Designer Chuck Paine's quite brilliant Victoria 30 looks very traditional, but handles sublimely and goes like a relative rocket, thanks to her modern fin keel...  

If long keels are so good, why doesn't anybody make them any more. I loved sailing the Nic 32, stable, good in very strong weather, lovely motion but a nightmare in marinas, cramped and not particularly fast. But things move on and now with a conservative fin and skeg I'm a happy bunny and wouldn't go back for all the tea....  

parsifal said: Pity you had to spoil your opening post with that snide, and unnecesary, remark. Do you have any grounds to justify your suspicion? Click to expand...

john_morris_uk said: I think the point I was making about passage timing was that most people quite like to make shorter passages. The spade rudder is another question, and I will admit I would rather have a skeg hung (or at least partially skeg hung rudder on our own boat, but I also try not to let my imagination run away with me, and I know that when we go offshore, there are plans for an alternative steering sytem already taking place. Its an attitude of mind thing though - as spade rudders are fitted to lots of boats that sail round the world. Just make sure its properly engineered - and I guess that if anything hits a semi-submerged container, you are in the poo unless you are in a steel boat perhaps. The trouble with steel boats is the maintenance and the fact that you can't have a very small one - because of the weight issues. Click to expand...

john_morris_uk said: The bilge is another question - and some fin keeled boats have bilges that will soak the contents of the adjacent lockers with only half a litre of water sloshing about! A little water goes a long way in such a boat, and I agree that proper bilges are good thing. However proper bilges aren't the sole preserve of long keelers... Regarding the comfort factor and height of saloon florr compared to the sea level outside - I think you are overstating the case. Firstly, the motion is a function of lots of things - including displacement and there are uncomfortable boats of all keel configurations. Perhaps, because long keeled boats tend to be heavier displacement, they have a reputation for comfort? As far as knocking the keel off and spade rudders are concerned, I suggest that there are lots of encapsulated fin keeled boats which don't have fins that could be knocked off easily - and if our fin drops off the substantial and over engineered webs and studs that hold it on I will eat my hat. Click to expand...

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Electrostal History and Art Museum

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Electrostal History and Art Museum - All You Need to Know BEFORE You Go (2024)

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40 facts about elektrostal.

Written by Lanette Mayes

Modified & Updated: 02 Mar 2024

Reviewed by Jessica Corbett

Elektrostal is a vibrant city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia. With a rich history, stunning architecture, and a thriving community, Elektrostal is a city that has much to offer. Whether you are a history buff, nature enthusiast, or simply curious about different cultures, Elektrostal is sure to captivate you.

This article will provide you with 40 fascinating facts about Elektrostal, giving you a better understanding of why this city is worth exploring. From its origins as an industrial hub to its modern-day charm, we will delve into the various aspects that make Elektrostal a unique and must-visit destination.

So, join us as we uncover the hidden treasures of Elektrostal and discover what makes this city a true gem in the heart of Russia.

Key Takeaways:

• Elektrostal, known as the “Motor City of Russia,” is a vibrant and growing city with a rich industrial history, offering diverse cultural experiences and a strong commitment to environmental sustainability.
• With its convenient location near Moscow, Elektrostal provides a picturesque landscape, vibrant nightlife, and a range of recreational activities, making it an ideal destination for residents and visitors alike.

Known as the “Motor City of Russia.”

Elektrostal, a city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia, earned the nickname “Motor City” due to its significant involvement in the automotive industry.

Home to the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Elektrostal is renowned for its metallurgical plant, which has been producing high-quality steel and alloys since its establishment in 1916.

Boasts a rich industrial heritage.

Elektrostal has a long history of industrial development, contributing to the growth and progress of the region.

Founded in 1916.

The city of Elektrostal was founded in 1916 as a result of the construction of the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Located approximately 50 kilometers east of Moscow.

Elektrostal is situated in close proximity to the Russian capital, making it easily accessible for both residents and visitors.

Known for its vibrant cultural scene.

Elektrostal is home to several cultural institutions, including museums, theaters, and art galleries that showcase the city’s rich artistic heritage.

A popular destination for nature lovers.

Surrounded by picturesque landscapes and forests, Elektrostal offers ample opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, camping, and birdwatching.

Hosts the annual Elektrostal City Day celebrations.

Every year, Elektrostal organizes festive events and activities to celebrate its founding, bringing together residents and visitors in a spirit of unity and joy.

Has a population of approximately 160,000 people.

Elektrostal is home to a diverse and vibrant community of around 160,000 residents, contributing to its dynamic atmosphere.

Boasts excellent education facilities.

The city is known for its well-established educational institutions, providing quality education to students of all ages.

A center for scientific research and innovation.

Elektrostal serves as an important hub for scientific research, particularly in the fields of metallurgy, materials science, and engineering.

Surrounded by picturesque lakes.

The city is blessed with numerous beautiful lakes, offering scenic views and recreational opportunities for locals and visitors alike.

Well-connected transportation system.

Elektrostal benefits from an efficient transportation network, including highways, railways, and public transportation options, ensuring convenient travel within and beyond the city.

Famous for its traditional Russian cuisine.

Food enthusiasts can indulge in authentic Russian dishes at numerous restaurants and cafes scattered throughout Elektrostal.

Home to notable architectural landmarks.

Elektrostal boasts impressive architecture, including the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord and the Elektrostal Palace of Culture.

Offers a wide range of recreational facilities.

Residents and visitors can enjoy various recreational activities, such as sports complexes, swimming pools, and fitness centers, enhancing the overall quality of life.

Provides a high standard of healthcare.

Elektrostal is equipped with modern medical facilities, ensuring residents have access to quality healthcare services.

Home to the Elektrostal History Museum.

The Elektrostal History Museum showcases the city’s fascinating past through exhibitions and displays.

A hub for sports enthusiasts.

Elektrostal is passionate about sports, with numerous stadiums, arenas, and sports clubs offering opportunities for athletes and spectators.

Celebrates diverse cultural festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal hosts a variety of cultural festivals, celebrating different ethnicities, traditions, and art forms.

Electric power played a significant role in its early development.

Elektrostal owes its name and initial growth to the establishment of electric power stations and the utilization of electricity in the industrial sector.

Boasts a thriving economy.

The city’s strong industrial base, coupled with its strategic location near Moscow, has contributed to Elektrostal’s prosperous economic status.

Houses the Elektrostal Drama Theater.

The Elektrostal Drama Theater is a cultural centerpiece, attracting theater enthusiasts from far and wide.

Popular destination for winter sports.

Elektrostal’s proximity to ski resorts and winter sport facilities makes it a favorite destination for skiing, snowboarding, and other winter activities.

Promotes environmental sustainability.

Elektrostal prioritizes environmental protection and sustainability, implementing initiatives to reduce pollution and preserve natural resources.

Home to renowned educational institutions.

Elektrostal is known for its prestigious schools and universities, offering a wide range of academic programs to students.

Committed to cultural preservation.

The city values its cultural heritage and takes active steps to preserve and promote traditional customs, crafts, and arts.

Hosts an annual International Film Festival.

The Elektrostal International Film Festival attracts filmmakers and cinema enthusiasts from around the world, showcasing a diverse range of films.

Encourages entrepreneurship and innovation.

Elektrostal supports aspiring entrepreneurs and fosters a culture of innovation, providing opportunities for startups and business development.

Offers a range of housing options.

Elektrostal provides diverse housing options, including apartments, houses, and residential complexes, catering to different lifestyles and budgets.

Home to notable sports teams.

Elektrostal is proud of its sports legacy, with several successful sports teams competing at regional and national levels.

Boasts a vibrant nightlife scene.

Residents and visitors can enjoy a lively nightlife in Elektrostal, with numerous bars, clubs, and entertainment venues.

Promotes cultural exchange and international relations.

Elektrostal actively engages in international partnerships, cultural exchanges, and diplomatic collaborations to foster global connections.

Surrounded by beautiful nature reserves.

Nearby nature reserves, such as the Barybino Forest and Luchinskoye Lake, offer opportunities for nature enthusiasts to explore and appreciate the region’s biodiversity.

Commemorates historical events.

The city pays tribute to significant historical events through memorials, monuments, and exhibitions, ensuring the preservation of collective memory.

Promotes sports and youth development.

Elektrostal invests in sports infrastructure and programs to encourage youth participation, health, and physical fitness.

Hosts annual cultural and artistic festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal celebrates its cultural diversity through festivals dedicated to music, dance, art, and theater.

Provides a picturesque landscape for photography enthusiasts.

The city’s scenic beauty, architectural landmarks, and natural surroundings make it a paradise for photographers.

Connects to Moscow via a direct train line.

The convenient train connection between Elektrostal and Moscow makes commuting between the two cities effortless.

A city with a bright future.

Elektrostal continues to grow and develop, aiming to become a model city in terms of infrastructure, sustainability, and quality of life for its residents.

In conclusion, Elektrostal is a fascinating city with a rich history and a vibrant present. From its origins as a center of steel production to its modern-day status as a hub for education and industry, Elektrostal has plenty to offer both residents and visitors. With its beautiful parks, cultural attractions, and proximity to Moscow, there is no shortage of things to see and do in this dynamic city. Whether you’re interested in exploring its historical landmarks, enjoying outdoor activities, or immersing yourself in the local culture, Elektrostal has something for everyone. So, next time you find yourself in the Moscow region, don’t miss the opportunity to discover the hidden gems of Elektrostal.

Q: What is the population of Elektrostal?

A: As of the latest data, the population of Elektrostal is approximately XXXX.

Q: How far is Elektrostal from Moscow?

A: Elektrostal is located approximately XX kilometers away from Moscow.

Q: Are there any famous landmarks in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to several notable landmarks, including XXXX and XXXX.

Q: What industries are prominent in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal is known for its steel production industry and is also a center for engineering and manufacturing.

Q: Are there any universities or educational institutions in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to XXXX University and several other educational institutions.

Q: What are some popular outdoor activities in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal offers several outdoor activities, such as hiking, cycling, and picnicking in its beautiful parks.

Q: Is Elektrostal well-connected in terms of transportation?

A: Yes, Elektrostal has good transportation links, including trains and buses, making it easily accessible from nearby cities.

Q: Are there any annual events or festivals in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal hosts various events and festivals throughout the year, including XXXX and XXXX.

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