Boat Profile

A box that takes flight

From Issue   Small Boats Annual 2022 June 2021

T he Oz Goose was love at first sight. Or was it finding a love lost? There is something wonderful about sailing a light, responsive boat. I grew up in The Netherlands in the 1970s and spent all my spare time sailing my 8′ dinghy. Since then, I’ve sailed and often raced dinghies and yachts in many countries, on seas and ocean. But the thing that got me into sailing was the response of a light boat, the chuckle of the water at the bow, and the pride of sailing a boat that was actually mine. Fifty years later, I am as hooked on my Oz Goose as I was on that first dinghy.

The Oz Goose is a squarish plywood sailing dinghy measuring 12′ long and 4′ 2″ wide. The “Oz” in its name indicates the nationality of the designer, Michael Storer, who hails from Australia. The Oz Goose is one of the many boats inspired by the Bolger Brick. The pilot version of the Goose was 8′ long and 4.2′ wide; later versions were the current size, 12′ by 4′ 2″. Only a handful of prototypes were built, but in 2014, when Texan sailor Ian Henehan started posting videos of an early Goose planing up to 12 knots in moderate wind, the design drew sailors’ attention around the world. It even surprised Michael that his “experiment” could sail so fast and so well. A MK2 version was developed, with a simplified construction method that made the boat lighter. With new plans available, the Oz Goose soon appeared in Europe, North America, Asia, and Australia. The Oz Goose fleet and community grew quickly through Family Boatbuilding Weekends, when families and community groups can build boats for themselves in just a few days. Sailing clubs popped up; I joined one that regularly brings together more than 20 Oz Goose boats to sail for fun and competitive events.

The plans come in the form of a 115-page manual illustrated with color photographs and a wealth of drawings. Measured drawings provide the shapes of the plywood pieces and the easy-to-follow instructions cover almost everything in detail. In addition to the instructions provided for the standard timber-framed construction, there are clearly marked directions for those who prefer to use fillets of thickened epoxy at the intersections of the panels; filleted joints can save time and may be cheaper. The build doesn’t require many tools: pencils and measuring tapes, a cordless drill/screwdriver to put in temporary screws, a jigsaw, and a hand plane. A random-orbit sander speeds finishing work.  When we encountered problems, the Goose Facebook group proved very useful with detailed answers in a few hours or overnight, and there are now also some excellent YouTube videos with coverage of specific sections of the building process. Just search for “Oz Goose sailboat construction.”

A look over the stern of the Oz Goose highlights the straight lines and right angles of the dinghy

The Oz Goose layout is as simple as it gets. Both the rudder and daggerboard are retracted here, the daggerboard in its trunk and the rudder in its open-backed box with a bungee holding it in place.

T he rectangular shape of the boat makes it simple to mark out and cut its components. Only the 12′-long hull sides and the flotation tank sides have curves—sheer and chine—and they are all identical so only two curves have to be drawn and faired. The rest of the parts are straight-sided rectangles.

The Oz Goose is laid out around two full-length buoyancy tanks that form the cockpit sides and side decks. In the middle of the boat is the daggerboard trunk, instead of a centerboard trunk. It simplifies construction and maximizes cockpit legroom. The rudder blade is held by a ¼″ shock cord in an open-backed box. It can be set at any height and provides light and accurate steering in any depth of water. If the blade strikes an obstacle it swings back and, after passing over, snaps back down again.

The daggerboard and rudder are given foil cross-sections using the templates provided in the manual and scaled online by the designer. Especially for racing, it is most important to shape them accurately and keep them in good condition.

ooze goose sailboat

When an Oz Goose heels, much of the flat-bottomed hull rises above the water which significantly reduces the wetted surface area, adding to the potential for speed.

The 13 1/4′ tapered mast has a hollow box; the detailed instructions make it easy to build. The manual includes instructions for making the 11′ boom either hollow or solid. The 10 ½′ yard is solid.  The Oz Goose flies an 89-sq-ft balance lugsail. Several measured drawings for making the sail are provided. For those who prefer a sail less expensive than custom-made or sewn at home, there are instructions for making the sail from a poly tarp and double-sided tape. Commercial sails for the Goose typically have two reefs.

Fittings for the rigging are simple and straightforward. For such a high-performance boat, the hardware list is tiny: three simple blocks, one horn cleat, and some rudder hardware. You can opt to have an adjustable downhaul and outhaul by purchasing and installing additional hardware, but rules for the Oz Goose class don’t allow racers to make adjustments with such devices during a race, so rich and poor are on an equal playing field.

Working evenings, odd days and weekends, it took me around two months to build the boat. A group on Facebook indicated building times from around one to perhaps six months. With the cost of materials relatively low here in the Philippines, our self-built boat cost under US$1,000. In North America, the cost of the boat, sails, and fittings, may come to about $2,000.

At 110 to 130 lbs, the Goose is light enough for two adults to carry to the beach or place on a roof rack. The boat can be sailed solo or with a crew member, for casual sailing or racing. The Goose even has space in its cockpit to fit three people and in light wind it still sails fine, even with those three aboard.

Senior sailors find it less taxing to move about in the ample, uncluttered cockpit and will enjoy the Goose more than other small dinghies. There are several disabled people who have also taken to sailing the Goose, reassured by its high stability. If you do manage to capsize a Goose, the buoyancy provided by the side tanks will let you bring the boat upright by using the daggerboard as a lever, and the cockpit won’t take on any water.

ooze goose sailboat

The popularity of the Oz Goose got a significant boost from videos of it sailing at high speed, but it was initially developed for sail training and family outings.

In light winds, you might normally sit well forward while going upwind, but with the Goose, the square bow needs to be out of the water or you will be plowing the waves like a bulldozer. The boat comes alive once the right trim has been achieved, and very little water ends up on the foredeck. When the wind picks up, and especially when bigger waves are building, we sometimes sit really far back. Sailing on a reach is easier, and the helm and crew position are essential to keeping the boat level and getting it to plane, which is a rewarding experience in a Goose. It loves to plane and the transition from displacement mode to planing is hardly noticeable. When sailing with two, it is important that they sit right beside each other in that correct location to squeeze out the best performance from the boat. And with two, the Oz Goose sails at the same speed as singlehanded boats, allowing for fleet races with mixed crews, including adult/child, adult/teen, two teens, two adults, and solo sailors.

ooze goose sailboat

When the wind and waves are up, shifting the crew weight aft keeps the bow high and the ride dry.

Even with a double reef in heavy wind, the boat sails remarkably well and is controllable on all points of sail. One needs to be proactive with the sheet—keep it in hand. In gusts, a common reflex would be to steer the boat higher while relaxing the main just a bit but, in my experience, in a Goose it is better to bear down and release the main quite a bit to keep the boat flat and maintain speed. As soon as the wind allows it, I will pull the sheet in, then steer back on course.

ooze goose sailboat

Contrary to expectations, the lugsail performs better when the sail is to windward of the mast and creased by it.

With the sail either on the downwind or upwind side of the mast, there is sometimes a very different feel on opposite tacks, especially right after coming about. We have found that neither port-rigged nor starboard-rigged boats will lose out when sailing side by side. Interestingly, our “Geesers” have found that the supposed “bad tack” of the lug has been wrongly attributed to having the sail on the windward side of the mast; it is actually the opposite. When the sail presses against the mast, acceleration is instantaneous after tacking. On the opposite tack, when the mast does not contact the sail, it is harder to find the speed and angle combination. The trick is to find the same speed as on the other tack before trying to point high. Being too greedy by pointing high before finding speed will fly back in your face.

ooze goose sailboat

Thom Kleiss was born on the water, on a houseboat in The Netherlands, and has been sailing since the age of four. Now living in Ireland and the Philippines, water is never far away. He is passionate about dinghy sailing development, is the Commodore of the Bere Island Watersports Club in Ireland, and is active in senior Laser racing in Singapore and Oz Goose sailing development in Taal Lake Yacht Club in the Philippines.

Oz Goose Particulars

Length/ 12′

Beam/ 4′ 2″

Weight/ 125 lbs

Sail area/ 89 sq ft

ooze goose sailboat

For more information about the Oz Goose, see Michael Storer’s website . To purchase plans, see his list of agents . In the U.S., plans are available from Duckworks : $40 for PDF format , $75 for print . Duckworks offers several Oz Goose kits , prices vary. Precut plywood kits are available in the Americas, Australasia, Philippines, Africa, and Europe.

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats Magazine readers would enjoy? Please email us!

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Comments (7)

Thank you for putting this article together, Chris and team.

Also a big thanks to Thom Kleiss. I had the pleasure to sail in company with him several times—he even beat me in some of our regular races. He has just departed the Philippines with his beautiful varnished Oz Goose (the one with blue sail in the article) in a huge plywood box being shipped to Ireland.

We were joking that the box would make an amazing MEGA Goose with a bit of added rocker!

Michael Storer

I love your article. I sail an East port Pram. It has a bit of a rocker. I would intersted in seeing the MEGA as I need room to add a cubby and sleep on board. Cheers

That version has been designed. See Duckworks for the Goose Explorer.

Very interesting observations about the supposed “bad tack” of the balanced lug rig. I noticed the same thing on my old Caledonia Yawl: the bad tack was better up wind than the good tack.

Following up on the “bad tack” surprising phenomenon, I wonder what would be the affect of putting the daggerboard slot to one side or the other. It would open up a lot of space.

See Michael Storer’s website.

Bolger insisted that boats don’t notice an off-center board, nor an off-center rig. Your idea should work fine.

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  Discovering the Oz Goose

Last winter my father and I started building two Oz Goose sailboats. We got one of them finished up in the spring and have spent the summer and fall learning how to get the most out of the boat. Our initial requirements were pretty simple. The Goose had to sail well enough to be entertaining and also be a good platform to start teaching the kids in the family how to sail. We were initially talking about building Puddle Ducks, but I ran across Michael Storer’s versions of the box boats and discovered his design for the 12 footer. The larger boat seemed like a better choice for our intentions, so we bought the plans and got started.

When I was initially asked to put down a few words about our boat, I intended to write a piece about how we built the Goose. I would have covered the ins and outs of the construction process and the choices we made along the way. Tonight, I decided to go a different direction. Most folks here are already familiar with box boats and building boats with plywood. Michael Storer’s plans and instructions are so thorough, there isn’t much to add. The build was pretty simple. Instead, I’d like to tell the story of what happened after the build and how we discovered what a great little boat we had.

The Launch The Goose was launched on the first possible day it could happen. The previous weekend was spent finishing up the sail and rigging the boat for the first time. The balance lug rig was an unfamiliar animal. We knew a bit about Bermuda rigs, but this was new territory. We rigged it according to the plans and started watching the weather forecast. Weather can be a tricky thing during the spring in Texas. It is temperamental and can go from mild to severe in a hurry. We found a place to launch and headed there on Saturday. There was plenty of wind, which we found out later was pushing twenty knots. It was sunny, warm and the water not too chilly. We decided to launch off of a lee shore as a safety precaution (yes, you read that right). The plan was to launch into the wind, so that we could get back easily if something important broke.

We launched as planned, into fairly determined chop and managed to climb our way upwind while staying off the bars and out of the fishing lines. The Goose accelerated quickly and handled the rough water well, if not noisily. The bow was pounding across the chop, but we were moving well and everything was (mostly) under control. We had our hands full with an unfamiliar craft and the rough conditions, but it was obvious that we had a decent boat. We just had to learn how to sail it well.

We spent about 45 minutes of tacking back and forth. The Goose was cooking on a big gust when the throat grommet tore out of the sail. Bang! Our rig blew up. We quickly doused the sail and took a look around. We were sitting about a half mile off of our launch point, but happily, directly upwind. I pointed the Goose at the beach while my dad held up a couple square yards of sail. We arrived back at the beach in a few minutes and picked up speed during most of the run. We got the Goose on the beach, examined the damage and unanimously declared victory. The torn sail was but a speed bump. We now knew the Goose was a fun and capable little boat.

Early Lessons The sail was repaired easily and we managed to get the boat on the water nearly every weekend for the next couple months. After the first outing, I immediately cleaned up the lines and rigging and made everything a bit more tidy. We continued to launch from the same ramp. The water was usually rough, but the wind backed off to a more reasonable 10-15 knots on most days. We got better at tacking the boat without stalling and learned a little more about setting up the balance lug. The kids and wives got their first rides and everyone was having fun in the new Goose. Our confidence was building quickly.

The first pleasant surprise came when sailing singlehanded for the first time. The Goose has loads of stability with two or three people on board. The handling gets a little more lively with just one. It was still easy to sail, but quickly led to the addition of a hiking strap and a tiller extension. This is when I first noticed that the Goose could really get moving. Even in light air, the Goose responds to every little gust and just accelerates away. The sensation of speed was present in all types of conditions.

Performance I eventually found a better place to launch. It was on a sheltered cove with the prevailing south wind blowing off the beach. I took the Goose out to the new spot by myself and was happy to find flat water and a strong breeze. The next couple hours of sailing changed my entire outlook about the Goose. It is no longer the stable little boat that sailed well and would happily do 5 or 6 knots in moderate wind. This is a rocket, with some real performance potential. I spent the day flying back and forth across that cove, hiking out hard with the Goose obviously planing. Loads of power, eye-watering acceleration and still easy to sail. At the end of the day, my hand-held GPS told me the Goose has topped out at 10.3 knots. This was fun!

By this time I had been pestering Michael Storer with questions about boat setup, sailing techniques and any other information I could get. He patiently answered all my amateur questions and was very generous helping me tune up the boat and my sailing. I have a background in flying and we went back and forth about the aerodynamics of sailing until I started to correlate my experience to the new regime. This was invaluable feedback over the summer as I tried to get more out of myself and the Goose. As an Australian Dinghy Racer (I think that’s a formal title), he steered me towards the performance end of sailing. It has taken some time for the lessons to sink in (still working on it), but gradually, I have been able to apply some of it to sailing the Goose. In return, the Goose responded by performing better and going fast more consistently. The learning process has been extremely engaging and more fun than I ever expected.

Teaching the kids A big part of our original mission for the Goose was to get the kids on the water and learning to sail. My youngest is six and she has two cousins that are just a little older. Dad and I finally got them all out to the lake at the same time and we got them started. They had all had a couple rides, but this was our first try at purposefully teaching them a few things. We started with capsize practice. Before rigging the boat, we pulled it out into waist deep water with just the mast stepped. We started with the boat floating on its side with one of us holding the mast on our shoulder. The Goose floats high on the side air boxes. Tipping it over is one of the fastest ways to empty out any water in the cockpit. We set the kids in the boat, sitting on the airbox panel. Then we could right the boat and end up with all the kids in the boat. They aren’t big enough to climb in by themselves yet. This saved boosting them in after righting the boat. We practiced this a few times and rigged the boat to go sailing. After some quick review, I took each of them out into deeper water and we did a real (planned) capsize and recovery, just like we practiced. This accomplished two things. First, we now had an easy way to get the small kids back into the boat and they knew the drill. Second, it removed all fear of capsizing for the kids. Kids having fun equals kids learning.

After the capsize drills were over, we set out in the Goose with all five of us on board. Each of them got a few turns at the helm and trimming the sail. We even tacked a couple times with the kids running things. The plan was coming together! The Goose sailed just fine with the large crew and behaved the same as always. It was still stable, easy to steer and trim and even continued to accelerate nicely in the puffs.

Goose Improvements Learning more about performance sailing helped me learn more about our Goose. I began to realize there were a couple things that needed to be better if I wanted to see the Goose improve. The foils are everything on a sailboat. Both the foils in the air and the foils in the water. We stuck to the plans on both, but our execution on the wet foils was much better than the execution on the sail. Leech control was a problem on our sail. No amount of tension between the boom and yard would tighten the leech. As a result, it fluttered constantly. The time came to build a new sail. I was more careful and accurate making the second sail and it was worth the effort.

In a departure from the plans, I adopted a common setup from Michael Storer’s Goat Island Skiff. First was changing from a laced foot on the sail to a loose foot. This required making a new boom that could handle the loads. In addition to changing the footing, I followed the lead of developments worked out on the GIS setups. The downhaul was moved back on the boom to work more as a vang (sometimes called a ‘vanghaul’ by Goat drivers). I upped the purchase to 6:1. Still pretty light compared to modern rigs. The boom parrel was converted to a limiting line to keep the boom from sliding forward on the mast. This has come to be known as a ‘bleeter’ by the GIS folks. The outhaul was changed from a static setup (tied with a line) to an adjustable rig with 2:1 purchase. This allowed easy depth control on the lower sail while on the water. Combined with the loose foot, the new controls allowed more and finer adjustment while sailing. It also allowed us put some of those high performance techniques into practice. Lots of practice.

This combination of improvements changed the character of the boat under sail. The leech was now quiet. The rig could be adjusted for conditions from almost no wind up to a stiff breeze. The boat could be configured quickly for beating, reaching and running with fewer compromises. This revealed more performance under a range of conditions and speeds. With the leech under control, the lift to drag ratio went up. Less heeling for similar power and speed. The cost of these improvements was minimal and it only took a few days work to make the new sail and boom.

Performance Revisited The next few outings after the rework proved to be interesting. It was now early fall and available wind starts dropping off in this part of Texas. We got out on a couple 3-5 knot days. Speed was clearly better than before with similar air. Trials were run of various settings until we had the right range roughed out for different points of sail. Interesting and useful endeavors, but we were waiting for a day with a breeze to see what the Goose could do with the new rig. I did manage 10 knots in a decent gust one afternoon, but that was short lived. The opportunity to fully test the boat came while attending Sail Oklahoma 2014.

Sail Oklahoma is an amazing gathering of water folk. Most boats are built by their owners and most are sailboats. I don’t have the space here to tell all the details of that week, but if you have the chance to attend, you should. It was a great time and there was lots of sailing.

Conditions on Lake Eufaula were moderate most of the week (except when the cold front came through). Thursday morning was the strongest wind of the week for me. It was blowing just north of 10 knots, but the gusts were close and strong. A few may have been pushing 17-18 knots. On a two hour sail, I spent a fair amount of time above 8 knots and several excursions over 10 knots. The boat was behaving beautifully. Finally, on a reach in the middle of the lake, I got a couple gusts that really let the Goose wind up. By bearing off in the gusts and hiking moderately hard, the Goose registered 12 knots on the GPS. The box boat made from Home Depot plywood and lumber was solidly in the double digits. Last Sunday, in a nice stiff breeze on the home lake, the Goose hit 12.9 knots and was in double digits almost half the day. Think about that for a minute.

Final Thoughts A yahoo from Texas with no real sailing experience, built a box boat for a few hundred dollars. The materials were all local and came from Home Depot. Pine plywood, pine and cedar lumber and as a bit of icing on the cake, using a sail made from Tyvek homewrap. The boat floats and sails. With the help of Michael Storer’s ‘Learn To Sail’ online correspondence course, it even sails well. Add the shallow pond of experience gained over a summer and some adjustments are made. The boat now sails extremely well.

It performs well in light wind and is stable and safe in strong winds. The Goose is a load of fun single-handed, but still fun with a pile of kids on board. Inadvertent capsizes are rare, but recovery is quick and easy. Plus, it comes up almost dry when righted. It has the controls needed to start learning some advanced sailing techniques, but can also be set and forgot for simple cruising. This is some serious bang for the buck. It requires approximately the same building skills as constructing a dog house that will keep your dog dry.

We could not have picked a better boat for our first build. It met and then exceeded everything we wanted to accomplish. It would have been difficult to pick a boat better suited for learning to sail. Certainly not for the time and money invested. Puddle Ducks are a great option. They can also sail very well and have some of the same benefits as a Goose. If you want a little more room and a lot more speed, the Goose is worth a look.

When we started the build we had a pretty low bar for success. It just had to sail and maybe not be a barge. I can’t express how much fun we have had discovering what this humble boat has to offer. I can only encourage you to get in on the fun. It is an excellent choice for a first sailboat.

Michael Storer Boat Design - Oz PD Goose – plans available from:

www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/storer/pgr/index.htm

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Affordable Sailing Philippines, Sail Oz Goose

Instructional Videos for Building the Oz Goose Sailboat in the Philippines

During COVID we could not run our normal group builds of the Oz Goose Sailboat. So we created this instructional video series for the Oz Goose Sailboat so that families, community groups and corporate groups could run their own Oz Goose building programs.

The videos help normal people to build an Oz Goose at home from the plan or from a kit.

Most Oz Goose sailboats are built in our Family Boatbuilding Weekends (FBWs) . Three days of building an oz goose from a prepared kit. But if you can’t get to a FBW you can also build at home.

Instructional Videos on building an Oz Goose Sailboat from plywood or a kit

We have been doing the FBW projects for years and have learned a lot along the way about how to build the Oz Goose in the simplest possible way.

Not only are there the plywood boatbuilding instructional videos below, but there is a helpful resource on Facebook where you can ask questions and be answered by experienced builders and instructors. Both English and Tagalog are available.

This is an overview video from a family that built a goose – initially in a park by a beach – the links to the instructional videos are below.

Video List for the Oz Goose from Kit or Local Plywood and Timber

Note that these Videos are of the group build method where we use nails to attach the decks and bottom of the boat. We do this so that the next step can proceed immediately. Most people building at home will take more time doing work on the weekends or maybe one or two evenings.

The biggest difference to the video approach for most home boat building is that bronze nails will not be used. That temporary drywall/plasterboard screws (black screws) will be used for assembly and then removed. We totally trust the glue – 100 boats in the Philippines over 5 years can’t be wrong!

0 Using Epoxy for Boatbuilding and using the Electronic scales

Mixing epoxy precisely is very important as incorrect mixing and measuring will prevent the glue from hardening

Dry Assembly of Stage 1 of the Oz Goose Hull.

2 bulkheads, 2 tank faces, 2 bow and stern transoms, 2 side panels.

01 Dry Assembly of Bulkheads and Tank Faces

We use a dry assembly method. All plywood for the construction step is assembled temporarily with no glue. This way any troubleshooting can be done without glue getting all over the place.

Drywall/plasterboard screws are used to temporarily assemble the plywood parts.

02 Dry Assembly of Bow & Stern Transoms

Same for the front and back of the boat. Everything is aligned perfectly without the glue.

03 Dry Assembly of Side Panels

The outside skin of the boat is also added to the structure. It is pretty floppy, but once the boxes of the hull are formed later it becomes light and strong.

the Gluing process of stage 1 of the Oz Goose Sailboat Hull.

04a gluing bulkheads tanks transoms sides part 1 disassembly.

We take the parts apart and lay them out ready for glue to be applied

04B Gluing Bulkheads Tanks Transoms Sides Part 2 How to Mix Epoxy Glue

Now we show you the secret of the method. The glue is applied and the parts can be quickly assembled into exactly the same screw holes of the dry assembly step.

Because a lot of gluing is done at once this prevents wasting the expensive epoxy.

The final step is to straighten the boat so that no permanent bends or twists are built into the hull.

04C Gluing Bulkheads, Tanks, Transoms, Sides Part 3 Gluing and Final Assembly

More gluing.

Stage 2 – Fitting and Gluing the bottom of the Dinghy Hull.

05 dry assembly and gluing of hull bottom.

Same process for the bottom. Dry assembly, disassembly then glue application and screw the panels together in the same holes.

Stage 3 – Fitting out the Interior with centrecase and mast support

06 aligning the boat and dry assembly of interior components.

Hull is levelled again so that it is not twisted. Now the centrecase, mid seat, mast partner and mast step are dry fitted. It is very important they are straight.

07 Gluing All Interior Components and cutting out the centrecase slot

The components fitted in the last step are carefully glued in place.

Fibreglass the Bottom and Epoxy coat the outside of the Oz Goose Sailboat hull

08 fibreglassing the bottom.

One-fourth plywood in the Philippines is thinner than the ply in the rest of the world. So we use 4oz fibreglass to cover the bottom and go 25mm/1″ around onto the sides of the hull.

Only use woven cloth of 4oz (preferred) or 6oz for the bottom. See video to see the style of the glass.

If you are using plywood that is really 6mm or 1/4″ thick only the chines need to be fibreglassed with 2″ (50mm) fibreglass tape – see the plans for this simpler and cheaper method.

Decks – coat underside, coat inside tank, Fit the Decks trim and prepare for coating the exterior.

10 coat interior of tanks and underside decks, glue the decks.

NOTE that the underside of the decks is epoxied with two coats before being glued down.

Check the boat is level and untwisted before fitting the decks. Any remaining twist will be impossible to remove from the hull after this stage.

11 Final steps before Epoxy sealing decks and cockpit

Important details to make your Oz Goose Look Good and be comfortable to sail.

Rigging the Oz Goose to go Sailing

12 rigging first time for phbyc oz goose projects.

This is the preparation of the boat and rig before leaving home. It takes some time but most of it will not have to be done a second time.

13 First Sailing Day – Set-Up Boat and Rigging to go sailing

With practice the rigging of the Oz Goose on a sailing day takes a little bit more than 5 minutes.

Rolly Perez, boatbuilder, mentor, taught boatbuilding in the Philippines

A Small Memorial

Most of the videos on this page were filmed and edited by Rolly Perez. A dear friend to many of the volunteers that have made the Oz Goose movement possible here.

He and Marte introduced and helped support many people in their adventures in boatbuilding. Rolly died after an illness in 2022.

He is deeply missed by all of us.

Home » Surprising speed difference 12ft Oz Goose vs 8ft OzRacer

Surprising speed difference 12ft Oz Goose vs 8ft OzRacer

The 12ft Oz Goose was originally designed as an “extra hull” to take the rig and foils of the 8ft Oz Racer to take the family out, we were expecting around a 20% increase in performance but we found much more than that.

A resizing that worked beyond all expectations and taught us something about the limitations of conventional thinking about “what works in boat design”.

Oz Goose Group on Facebook Oz Goose Website with lots of building and rigging and sailing tips Buy Oz Goose Plans $36 Buy Oz Goose Fittings and Ropes

First of all a Caution. This article is not permission to change the length of a boat plan.

Please consult the designer of your boat.

I have written articles before talking about the dangers of thinking that boats can be stretched or shrunk. They often cannot unless one understands what corner of design the boat inhabits. A very short Goat Island Skiff was a disaster for one amateur builder.

Is it OK to Stretch or Shrink an Existing Boat Design?

First Shock – 8ft Oz Racer handles 81/89 square feet mainsail easily all wind strengths

There are dangers in shrinking and stretching designs.

One way of avoiding dangers is to know which corner of design the starting boat inhabits.

In the article link above shrinking the Goat Island Skiff didn’t work because it is already a very small boat for its length and beam. Narrow waterline, light weight, minimal construction and big sail. So making it smaller was a disaster.

The 8ft Oz Racer was different.

We originally designed the 8ft Oz Racer to sail with an 8ft Duck class. Most boats had sails around the 40 to 45 square ft range with one or two boats with a bit more.

We decided that because the sails were so cheap (Polytarp) we may as well go big – as a sort of nationalist Joke.

After all it is an Australian Tradition.

What we were not expecting was that the 8ft boat fitted with well designed and made foils and sail/mast interaction would handle so very well even when the wind was strong. This was not without some struggle as we went through 4 mast designs and four sail designs to get the gust response we wanted.

The secret is the enormous stability of a rectangular platform boat. Any cutting away of the shape to make it more curvy or pointed reduces the stability very quickly.

The difference is radical – how many 8ft boats sail and handle well in all winds with a 90sf lugsail?

This is me coming in after a record breaking sail at 9.1kn. Not so fast, but this was a day at the Goolwa Wooden Boat Show where no other boats were on the water because the wind was going through severe gust cycles.

You can see I’m a bit damp from spray!

Why the Goose was designed – an extra hull for familysailing

I originally designed the goose as an extra hull for family sailing using the OzRacer rig, foils and rudderbox. Occasionally a plan would be sold.

Then around Ian Henehan started putting up videos – 10kn, then 12, then 12.9. This is the 12.9 video. It turned out these speeds were not uncommon for the goose. And that led us to start building a fleet in the Philippines – now 50 boats with another 20 by the end of this month.

Wrong – our underestimate of Oz Goose performance.

Being a 50% scale up we expected a performance jump mathematically related to the increase in waterline length. I know many of you know this.

Waterline in ft1.34 x sqrt (waterline)
Oz Racer7.53.66kn
Oz Goose11.254.49kn
Roughly 22% greater speed. But it didn’t work out that way.

That was our expectation. So the Oz Goose was designed around 2008 but it wasn’t until we saw Ian Henehan’s Videos in 2014/2015 that made us realise there was something unexpected happening.

Qualitative performance jump for the Oz Goose

I’ve written articles about hullspeed and particularly “planing” are such mushy definitions in practice that they are kind of misleading. What happens in reality?

When we first sailed the 8ft Oz Racer we found that while it would plane, the speed always wanted to quickly deteriorate back down to roughly 4 knots.

There was a really feeling of speed fluctuation up and down. The speed would quickly build in a gust and then quickly drop down with the slightest drop in gust strength.

As a measure of how seriously I sailed the OzRacer – my record of 9.1knots agrees with the best peak speed in the Duck class by Kenny Giles of 9.0knots.

The goose feels totally different – you get the speed up easily and it does not deteriorate – it is happy at the higher speeds. A slight drop in wind pressure and the boat speed drops only slightly, a slight pressure increase and the boat accelerates slightly. More wind is more speed.

ooze goose sailboat

This is the PSA (National Team) giving a great demonstration of the easy speed in fairly moderate wind – it is easy to see the acceleration with the gusts even with two aboard.

This is Not disparaging the 8ft boat which has some practical advantages and probably a performance advantage in very light winds where the Goose is not a slouch either.

Speed is not the only criterion – handling in strong winds

Both the Goose and the OzRacer have excellent handling in stronger winds. In our club racing fleet we frequently have beginner/intermediate sailors complete all their races in fairly strong winds without any capsizes.

That huge stability makes the boats very forgiving.

Additionally the high volume of bow and stern – and that they are so similar – means the boat has no vices when heavily heeled. If it sticks its nose into a wave in stronger winds it will still go where the crew points it – very different from a pointy nosed dinghy.

Thus the “wow” from the commodore who is filming my bearaway to avoid the committee boat.

ooze goose sailboat

Numbers on boat performance Oz Goose Compared to Oz Racer

Ozracer performance.

So a big qualitative difference as we have numbers from GPS readings over time. What about the numbers.

I spent a day in light and moderate winds and smooth water sailing the Oz Racer around with a GPS.

The big sail pushes the small hull up a bit over hullspeed even in light winds. See a lot of speeds around 3.7 plus or minus 0.2knots.

Downwind is much the same. With significantly stronger winds the 8ft boat will burst up to 6 or 7 knots but quickly drop down to around 3.7 plus/minus with just a slight change in pressure.

Just before the first of our masts breaks we see the somewhat slow planing speed of the 8ft Oz Racer.

ooze goose sailboat

With ideal speed conditions of winds over 20knots and good waves it is possible to see occasional speeds higher, but it is very hard to get much faster than 9 knots.

Oz Goose Upwind – Light and Moderate conditions

We have had 5 years of racing the Oz Goose now in fleets. We have also had other crews come from other classes of boats and occasionally hand our butts to us – because they found something new. Also we have crews that have made speed breakthroughs within our group.

When winds are light and the crew is just sitting upright on the side deck speed is typically pretty much in line with the 8ft OzRacer – around 4 to 4.5 knots.

A bit more wind and crew goes out to full hiking and the best upwind speed seems to centre around 5.2 knots plus or minus about 0.2. This is a good speed to practice sailing at for solo practice if enough wind for full hiking – try to sail as high as possible while retaining this speed range. You can actually hear the difference … the thump thump sound of the boat hitting waves changes to a cush cush sound.

It is also important to know the idea of “luffing in gusts” upwind is an old and slow technique. It is no longer used in dinghy competition. If a gust comes … don’t luff – just ease sheet to keep the same angle of heel. This works because the boat keeps moving fast at the target speed. If you practice with GPS you will see that speed drops and the boat makes more leeway every time a gust hits if you try luffing.

Planing upwind in the Goose

More wind than this and the boats with two crew start to have another option that the solo sailors don’t have. We were taught this by the first PSA crew to join us. First race of ’18 Nationals was pretty strong – around 16 to 20knots of wind.

I don’t have the speed readings for how fast they were going but they were about 25 to 33 percent ahead of our best sailors. This gives an upwind speed of around 6.5 to 7 knots. Around 7 is the speed where the Goose starts to feel Loose in planing mode.

Why is this possible?

With two people aboard the righting moment has doubled but the increase in overall displacement has gone up somewhat less – maybe only by 50% – but the boat must be sailed very level by constant sheeting.

If the water is not too rough this is a very effective mode. Big waves can hamper this approach.

Downwind in the Oz Goose

We saw that the smaller boat mostly sailed a bit above 4 knots and required significant wind to get up to 6 or 7. This puts average speeds very firmly a bit above 4 knots

When the wind is lighter, sailing performance of the 12ft goose is probably around the same.

But a bit more wind and the Goose starts spending a lot 7 to 9 range where it comes alive and feels like it is doing something. It is starting to feel exciting and is quite effortless.

ooze goose sailboat

Once it is there it likes to be there and more wind means significantly greater speeds. Averages are much higher – 7, 8 or 9kn is possible for leg averages. Getting up towards double the OzRacer’s numbers.

Peak speeds (all on tideless lakes) have ` 12 , 12.9, 13.8 and 18.0 (for a full 2 seconds and three GPS points ).

SUMMARY – Design is always interesting when performance is not as expected

This was one of the huge surprises to me as a designer. Same cross section, same sail, same rocker, same righting moment, same foils.

A theoretical speed around 20% greater, – yet utterly utterly different.

This doesn’t mean that any design will benefit from extra length. For example I doubt adding more length to the goose would improve performance much.

But in the case of increasing the 8ft OzRacer hull by 50% we had a hull

  • with exceptional stability from the rectangular planform (which means power)
  • a very large sail for the hull length and width
  • overloaded with two sailors aboard

The Goose gives us

  • Much higher average speeds
  • A real sense of planing performance downwind
  • Upwind planing with two crew in stronger winds
  • Excelling light wind performance even with three adults aboard (instructor and two students)

6 thoughts on “Surprising speed difference 12ft Oz Goose vs 8ft OzRacer”

Interesting read. Thanks. It would be interesting to run the disp/length figures. And the D/L limited speeds. I wonder how a 16 foot version would go?

Judging by performance difference is it over some sort of hump.

D/L is a very crude measure. Further increases may not show the same benefit and start hurting in the Sail area to wetted surface.

Oz Goose designed 2008, Ian Henehan’s videos 2004 ?

Thanks Johan.

Should be 2014/15. I fixed the typo.

Very grateful Michael Storer

Has anyone tried shifting the transom forward an inch or so to allow the bottom hull panel to extend slightly past the transom? I wonder if this would help the boat plane (and hold the plane) a little easier by creating a sharp exit of the water surface tension as opposed to the 90 degree angle of the transom.

Hi Michael.

From the water’s point of view it sees no difference between the planing boards as you describe and a transom.

In general the thing we want there is a sharp edged corner. So we don’t usually glass tape along the edge of the transom.

As long as it is reasonably sharp the water will go straight. If it is rounded the water will go around the corner and make a little wave at the back of the boat implying energy lost from making the boat go forward.

So no difference.

There is a risk though. The overhang of the planing boards becomes a very easily damaged edge as it is a continuation of the bottom ply. And it adds a bit of fiddling to the building process.

So in the end … if the bottom and side edges of the transom are reasonably sharp, the planing boards are redundant.

Best wishes MIK

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Oz Goose low-cost plywood sailing dinghy that is easy to build and fun to sail

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Product Description

The Oz Goose is a low-cost sailing dinghy that is easy to build and is perfect for clubs, regattas and learning to sail.

Australian boat designer Michael Storer created this fun sailing dinghy as a project that makes dinghy sailing accessible to everyone. Where he lives, in the Philippines, family and corporate groups are able to build ten Oz Racers for the same price as importing a single Laser dinghy.

The Oz Goose is light and simple to build, with no complicated woodwork. It also sails extremely well despite the low cost.

The Oz Goose will carry an instructor and two adults for sailing lessons, or one or two adults for club racing. It is equally at home with two adults and children aboard for family picnics.

The kit is for the epoxy filleted construction method. An alternative timber-framed method is also described in the plans, for builders in countries where timber is cheap.

The kit includes:

  • Pre-cut wooden panels (6 mm plywood) with pre-cut joints
  • Solid wood for gunwales, spacers and frames
  • Epoxy resin and activator
  • Epoxy fillers
  • Woven glass fabric
  • Woven glass tape
  • Mast staves (for hollow wooden mast)
  • Wooden blanks for boom and yard
  • Daggerboard blank
  • Daggerboard case
  • Rudder blank
  • Tiller blank
  • Comprehensive building manual
  • Free technical support from a competent builder

The kit does not include the sail or warp although we can supply them.

What else do I need?

The 114-page A4 plans for the Oz Goose are more like a book or a boat building course. They contain detailed information on each building step, including how to join the plywood, mark the shapes of the panels and use the epoxy.

The plans are highly detailed and fully dimensioned. That means that there is no poring over them with your scale rule and getting scale conversions wrong: the measurements you need to know are written in clear type and in the area that you are looking at.

An electronic version of the plans in PDF format that can be viewed using Adobe Reader. After credit card authorisation the file will be sent to the email address put on the order form.

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Oz Goose Sailboat  – Cheap Simple Plywood Boat

Substituting aluminium spars on the Oz Goose sail boat

The plans for the various Goose versions show timber spars, butwhat about Aluminium tubing for spars. Here are sizings in Imperial and Metric below.

Here is Brad Hickman practicing on Lake Eufala. Video below.

For information on Building and sailing an Oz Goose

  • BUILDING VIDEOS -Our Step By Step How to Build an Oz Goose Sailboat
  • Building the Oz Goose sailboat for peanuts
  • Some of the sailing performance of the Oz Goose
  • Video – one of our Regattas – 17 boats – this year 32 boats!
  • How the Oz Goose goes together – CAD drawings
  • Ropes sizes and Fittings needed for the Oz Goose and a Supplier

I do like the timber spars because they look nice.  But you can save a bit of weight on the yard by using an alloy tube.

Brad Hickman did all the work on this and with a suitably modified boat derived from the OzRacer went on to win the PDRacer worlds.  Six months after (???) there was an anonymous challenge to the legality of his boat.  So it was measured and was found to be class legal. His boat is the one in the pic.

Correct Choice of Aluminium Alloy for Lug Masts and Spars

The correct aluminium alloys to choose for boat spars are in the 6000 series. The Temper must be T6 or the alloy will be too soft and the mast dent too easily or fold at the partner.

So typical numbers you will see are 6061-T6 6063-T6

A newer alternative below is a lower temper but has the same strength. The T5 Temper is not appropriate for the alloys above. 6005-T5

Aluminium spar diameters and wall thicknesses for the Oz Goose and OzRacer.

Also Ocean Explorer, Ooze Gooze and Goose Explorer


2.56650.082.0

2.44620.082.0
1.5370.0651.651
2500.0651.651

1/ I do think the mast will look much less nice than the timber version which has a classic taper. 2/ We do have a nice timber box boom design now.  Contact me for details or see the “files” section on the Goose Facebook group . 3/ A class Legal Oz Goose can only use timber or untapered aluminium Yard. However the other boats have a Yard option of using a used 50% (or more) carbon spar from a windsurfer. Some regions they are very affordable. Here are the details and the instructions. NOTE – WINDSURF SPARS ARE NOT SUITABLE AS MASTS FOR THIS SIZE OF BOAT. THEY ARE FAR TOO FLEXIBLE AND THEY ARE TOO EXPENSIVE TO STIFFEN. Using a windsurfer mast for a lug rig yard on a Goat Island Skiff – Storer Boat Plans in Wood and Plywood

Aluminium spars in use on an Oz Racer

And just for general fun, here is Brad using the spars to motor upwind in his OzRacer derived boat using the Aluminium spars.

More Information about the Oz Goose

5 thoughts on “substituting aluminium spars on the oz goose sail boat”.

I need to build a 3-part mast. Would 2 1/2 OD still be correct? I’m figuring my inner sleeves would be 2 feet each– 1 foot on each side of the split. Does that sound right? And is there any problem with using wooden yard and boom with an aluminum mast?

Absolutely fine. One option is that the top third of the mast can be the same section as used for the sleeve. It will save a little bit if weight and the taper effect will help the appearance.

Thanks very much, Mike. Re-examining this (after looking at the vendor and shipping options), I’m thinking of a 4-section. Bottom 2 sections would be 2.5 OD, upper 2 sections would be 2.25 OD, and top 15″ would be 2″ OD. All wall thicknesses would be 1/8″, not the 1/16″ mentioned above. Sleeves would be inserted 9″ into the outer tubes. Total weight for the mast would be around 25 lbs. Does that sound reasonable to you?

Normally a two piece aluminium mast will be lighter than the timber equivalent. . A three piece mast starts to be somewhat heavier than a timber mast and four piece heavier still.

I don’t know why you are planning to double the wall thickness – it will be a tank. Is there a problem getting the approx 1/8″ wall in the table above?

if there is no real compelling reason to go four piece I would go two or three.

After all, the yard and boom are already longer than half the mast which defines the stowage length. Looks like overkill unless you have something really specific in mind.

Saving weight in the rig is probably four times more effective than saving weight in the hull, but both will give you noticeable differences.

Thanks very much. The vendor says that the shipping has a surcharge for pieces over 58″. I’ve asked for more specifics about that surcharge, but I would guess I’ll end up with a 3-part. The vendor hasn’t responded with more specifics, yet.

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