bmi interior yacht refinishing

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B.M.I Interior Yacht Refinishing For all of your interior refinishing needs

​ Established in 2004, B.M.I Interior Yacht Refinishing has a 3,200 sq. ft. paint shop facility located in the "Yachting Capital of the World", Fort Lauderdale, Florida, just off of Marina Mile. From milky finishes, color matching, minor scratch repair to complete re-fits, B.M.I will provide you with excellent results and complete satisfaction. Click here to read some of our satisfied Captains testimonials .                                      Specializing in removable pieces e.g interior and exterior table tops, and cabinets.     

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BoulderGT3 Senior Member

I've got a Viking and like many of them the main salon gloss finish wood is starting to get milky. Does anyone have experience with getting this refinished in the Ft Lauderdale area?

jayjay New Member

Milky finish in older boats is likely caused by moisture. Not knowing the extent of your problem, some improvement is possible. Blush can be reduced. Try a hair dryer, blush remover, dehumidifier, petroleum jelly, or MEK. YMMV 2002 Viking SC 45

ychtcptn Senior Member

Contact Tom at Thomas Anthony Interiors.

ychtcptn said: ↑ Contact Tom at Thomas Anthony Interiors. Click to expand...

I've used them for years. They do most of the service work on the Westports among many others.

Lenny Member

Try Wood Chuck Workshop - In Dania Beach and Ft Lauderdale . I have used them for 10 years, always first rate.

Capt Bill11 Senior Member

Call BMI refinishing in FLL

Lenny said: ↑ Try Wood Chuck Workshop - In Dania Beach and Ft Lauderdale . I have used them for 10 years, always first rate. Click to expand...

Capt J Senior Member

BoulderGT3 said: ↑ I don't have the panels back yet but this is the company I decided to go with. Every call returned and they've done everything they said they would. Also does a lot of Viking work so his knowledge of the boat was first rate. Click to expand...

Caltexflanc Senior Member

Capt J said: ↑ About how much did they charge for a panel and about how big was it? Click to expand...

richard lyons New Member

jayjay said: ↑ Milky finish in older boats is likely caused by moisture. Not knowing the extent of your problem, some improvement is possible. Blush can be reduced. Try a hair dryer, blush remover, dehumidifier, petroleum jelly, or MEK. YMMV 2002 Viking SC 45 Click to expand...

richard lyons said: ↑ I have 2000 55 ft viking will ur ideas work for them rest of cabinets look great finishes not scratched Click to expand...

BoulderGT3 said: ↑ Keep us posted if anything works. I had panels redone at $100’2. They look perfect. There are other methods to sand through the milky part and coat over that. It’s not a full strip but the craftsman has to be **** good because the Viking veneer is thin and actually very thin strips. Really easy to screw it up. I have not tried the partials strip method yet. It’s about $70’. They still have to bag the interior of the boat. No easy answers that i’ve found. Click to expand...

Capt J said: ↑ Your right about all of the above. Generally the reason they turn milky is because they used 1 type of stain that breathes, and then sprayed clear eurethane over it which doesn't breathe. I had about 7 cabinet doors redone, and had them all re-veneered which is the way to go IMO generally if you can get the matching veneer. It cost me around $150 a cabinet door. But, sometimes they can sand down the clear without getting into the veneer and re-clearing. Click to expand...

BoulderGT3 said: ↑ $150 a door seems really cheap. I paid $100 square foot. Getting a veneer match on the Viking teak is really really hard to do. Click to expand...

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Yacht Interior Designers Guide: To Refit Or Not To Refit Part 2

To be in yachting, you've got to love it and be a little crazy..

Murphy’s Law was written for yacht refits.  If it can break, crack, slip, fall off, tear or just plain wear out, it will on a yacht whether an owner has numerous refit experiences, or is planning his or her first.  Keeping this thought in mind throughout the yacht refit process will help to gain some perspective on the project.

Every little change on a yacht refit affects something else. You may want to move beds, but often beds are used for concealing many different things from structural stringers and floor line to HVAC, plumbing, wiring, and even fuel tanks.

87′ Outer Reef  Ti Punch  Guest Stateroom Construction Photos

87′ Outer Reef Ti Punch  Guest Stateroom Completed Photo

87′ Outer Reef  Ti Punch  VIP Stateroom Construction Photos

87′ Outer Reef  Ti Punch  VIP Stateroom Completed Photo

As mentioned in Part 1 of “Yacht Interior Designers Guide: To Refit Or Not To Refit” , it is what you don’t see that can cause unexpected budgetary increases and time delays.

87′ Outer Reef Ti Punch  Main Salon Construction Photo

87′ Outer Reef Ti Punch  Main Salon Completed Photo

*Notice how the loose sofa is built on top of the step in the floor.

Fuel Tank under Master Stateroom Bed on an Ocean Alexander Yacht

“Even the best-laid plans turn to hell when exposed to reality” -Michael Anthony, Author

I often wish I had a crystal ball to predict all the scenarios one might encounter during a yacht refit;  however, just as no two fingerprints or snowflakes are alike, the same is true for yacht refits! Remember, the better the plan is, the more successful the refit will be.

Something as simple as replacing wall material can be a major project when it is not known how the material was originally installed, how difficult it will be to remove or just how much prep work will be involved.  On the refit we did for the 97’ Hargrave Forever Young , the wall material throughout the entire yacht was pulling away from the walls giving it a bubbled look.

There was no way to know until we started removing the wall panels how much labor would be involved. In some areas the panels were able to be removed in one piece and in others the panels came apart in many pieces pulling off parts of the wall along with them.  The walls had to be patched and door skin applied and sanded in the areas where wall paper would be applied. In the areas where upholstered panels would be reapplied, the walls had to be patched and sanded and panels repaired if necessary, upholstered and re-installed.

97′ Hargrave Forever Young Pilot House Before

97′ Hargrave Forever Young Pilot House After

97′ Hargrave Forever Young Stair Before, During and After

97′ Hargrave Forever Young Master Stateroom Before

97′ Hargrave Forever Young Master Stateroom During

97′ Hargrave Forever Young Master Stateroom After

97′ Hargrave Forever Young Dining Before

97′ Hargrave Forever Young  Dining During

97′ Hargrave Forever Young  Dining During

Changing out headliner can make one of the biggest impacts because it is the largest surface area. It can brighten up the room and give reflection.  While changing headliner, it is a good time to also change lighting and wiring for audio visual. Plan on changing all of the headliner in an entire room and not just a portion of the room because the color and texture of the headliner will be impossible to match as the color will have changed due to age and sunlight damage.  If furniture that touches the ceiling is being removed, the new furniture must be designed with the same ceiling footprint as the original furniture or furniture with a new soffit larger than the footprint of the original furniture can be designed to avoid changing the headliner if that is not in the plan.

Also on the 97’ Hargrave Forever Young, the Dining Salon forward cabinet was removed, and the wall was re-veneered and finished to match the existing cabinetry.  All of the overhead lighting was changed to LED; however, changing the headliner was not in the budget so it was necessary for us to create a soffit above the new forward cabinet where the old was removed in an effort to save the headliner.

97′ Hargrave Forever Young  Dining After

This Owner-driven yacht interior design refit was to refresh our Client’s “new” yacht so he and his family would enjoy spending time aboard and pursue their passion of yachting.  In addition to family-driven requirements, the owner placed limits on the interior refit budget. Even when budget is of primary consideration, an Owner’s objectives can be achieved through effective collaboration and a solid scope of service established at the outset of a refit project.

97′ Hargrave Forever Young Main Salon Before

97′ Hargrave Forever Young Main Salon After

On the refit of the 142’ Trinity Chevy Toy ,  the original plan was a fairly minor refit to include refinishing of wood and replacement of stone counters and floors, soft goods such as bedding, upholstery, window treatments, carpet, wall coverings, headliner, loose furniture, art and accessories.

142′ Trinity  Chevy Toy Main Salon Before

In the process of removing the carpet and sound barrier padding, we found mold and mildew on the underside of the padding at each of the seams of the floorboards below. The entire Main Salon floor was rotting from an AC leak that had gone undetected.  The leak came from above, through the walls and under the built in cabinetry and floor.

The carpet, padding and the yacht’s floating floor system that consisted of a plywood subfloor, “damped” plywood made with layers of rubber sandwiched between the plys of wood,  plywood strips to level and attach the next layer, a foam material used for vibration damping properties and the “damping paste” had to all be removed down to the bare aluminum deck and rebuilt with new materials. The wood baseboards and some cabinetry had to be replaced as well as the entire HVAC system. Thanks to an experienced team and a well designed and choreographed plan of action, we were able to move quickly through this unexpected setback and create the elegant and transitional updated interior that the owner desired.

142′ Trinity  Chevy Toy Main Salon Completed Photo

A yacht refit is always larger than you plan for it to be and will always evolve.

Purchasing a yacht with refit in mind requires a different set of criteria than building a new yacht or purchasing a “like new” brokerage yacht for immediate use.  In some cases, a yacht that seems undesirable as-is can become a wonderful value as a yacht refit prospect.

Even in what appears to be the most simple and straightforward project, there is no way to know for sure if the type of issues described above will arise, but as talked about in Part 1 of “Yacht Interior Designers Guide: To Refit Or Not To Refit” , you can benefit from the knowledge of an experienced team who has no doubt already encountered similar problems and worked out the solutions. The key to successfully refitting a yacht is the effective planning and correct execution of the plan.

Tips for effective planning and correct execution of the refit plan...

Once a realistic budget is determined and how it will be allotted, plan accordingly and engage the appropriate professionals who can ensure that the refit does not expand beyond control. Prior to the start, the owner-designer-captain-shipyard team must be certain of the desired end result. A well defined, clear and detailed project scope will allow for precise specifications to each of the various contractors involved which is necessary to obtain comprehensive quotes. What appears to be a lower priced quote may very well just not be inclusive due to a lack of information.

Just as every little change on a yacht refit will affect something else, each contractor’s work affects another’s.  Weekly on board meetings with all of the contractors involved, as a group, will uncover possible bottlenecks in the process early on that can affect the budget or schedule. Identifying these obstacles will allow for swift reorganization, minimizing lost time.

“Compromise” should be an accepted word in the yacht refit vocabulary.

An owner should be aware of budget and only invest what is redeemable upon resale, unless he plans to keep the refitted yacht for a long period of time.  Every yacht has a maximum value. Some yachts may require too much to bring them up to the owners expectations, both mechanically and aesthetically and perhaps may not be the right yacht to purchase in the first place. However, with the ample resale market we have now there are many options from which to choose!

Are you ready for a refit?

Let us know when you would like to meet to discuss possible options for you or your client!

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About the Author

Destry Darr Pethtel is an award-winning interior designer based in Florida. Her designs have been featured in several luxury yacht publications such as Showboats, Boat International, Yachts International, Yachting, Luxe Magazine to name just a few! Read More About Destry >>

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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

Refinish Your Interior Teak to Better Than New

One of the things about older sailboats that I appreciate most is their abundance of teak woodwork. As a woodworker, I admire good craftsmanship, creative design, and a fine finish. It’s harder to find on today’s modern sailboats. Teak is in short supply so it’s more expensive than it once was and most modern sailors don’t want to spend time maintaining their brightwork. For the rest of us, beautiful teak appointments are an opportunity to set our sailboat apart from the rest and a sign of pride of ownership. Few improvements freshen up a sailboat’s interior like well maintained woodwork.

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure .

Catalina Yachts was generous with the teak woodwork in their first generation sailboats, less so in the “new design.” The forward bulkheads and removable panels except for the locker lids are marine grade teak veneer plywood. Solid wood was used where it made the most sense: handrails, trim, compression post, and moldings.

The down side of wood in a sailboat is, of course, water damage. Teak is very water resistant; it contains a lot of natural oil.  But it’s not invincible and if neglected for too long it will begin to look more like firewood. Ultraviolet light can bleach the color, persistent deck leaks can delaminate plywood, and sustained humidity can foster mildew and add to that old boat smell. The best defense is a durable finish.

An inch of teak is a terrible thing to waste

You have a lot of options to choose from for a finish. They run the spectrum of cost, ease of application, performance, and appearance. Some finishes are better choices for some locations on a sailboat than others. Protection from the elements is most important for topside brightwork; UV resistant and waterproof. Below deck, the finish should also be water resistant but ease of application is also very important so that the finish can be repaired or reapplied without having to remove all of the woodwork from the sailboat as I show here.

Most experienced skippers have a favorite finish that they recommend and there is little consensus among them. Before you begin refinishing your own woodwork, it’s worth spending some time looking at other sailboats and talking to their owners to help you decide on a finish for your own sailboat. If your teak already has an aftermarket product on it like Cetol or a spar varnish, it might be best to stick with that product rather than try to strip it all off so that you can apply something else.

For woodwork that gets a lot of use and abuse, like the companionway step lid on a C-22, consider applying a more durable finish like polyurethane, epoxy, or non-skid material like I describe in Turn Carpet Remnants into Custom Floor Mats .

Get started on that finish

Here are the basic steps that I follow to refinish interior teak:

1.  If the wood has never been refinished or if the existing finish is in poor condition, remove it all from the sailboat so that you can work on it easier and apply the finish to all the surfaces.

2.  Remove all attached hardware (screws, snaps, etc.) and other non-wood materials like vinyl welting.

3.  If there is any visible (black) mildew, apply a mild acid like white vinegar or diluted laundry bleach to remove it completely, especially in the grain and any recesses. Test first in an inconspicuous spot. You might have to bleach the entire part to get even coloring. For more about bleaching prior to applying a finish and using oxalic acid, see Restore Your Exterior Teak to Better Than New .

3.  Use a sanding block with 220 and 320 grit open face paper to sand all the exposed surfaces smooth. Since the wood is so hard and oily, it takes such fine sandpaper to remove all the sanding marks and bring out the beautiful grain and coloring of the teak.

4.  Wipe all the parts thoroughly with a tack rag to remove all sanding dust from the pores and grain.

5.  Wipe all the parts thoroughly with a clean cloth wetted with acetone. This will remove surface oils that can prevent the finish from soaking into the wood.

6.  Apply the first coat of finish. If you chose a spar varnish, thin it with the maximum amount of thinner recommended by the manufacturer. This will help the first coat to soak in more and provide an excellent base for the subsequent coats. With the first coat of teak oil, the color of the wood will really warm up and the grain will start to show some depth. It will get better with every coat.

7.  When dry, if you chose a spar varnish, lightly sand with 220 or 320 grit open face sandpaper to remove any dust particles that may have settled on the surfaces.

8.  Apply additional unthinned coats to achieve the desired thickness and appearance. If you chose a spar varnish, sand after each coat except for the last coat. If you chose teak oil, lightly polish after each coat with a clean cloth while it is still damp, then allow it to dry completely before applying the next coat.

9.  If your sailboat has welting where the wood panels meet the fiberglass hull liner and they’re ugly or decaying, now is a good time to replace them. You can make new welting out of synthetic cord from a fabric store covered with vinyl or another material. For more on making welting, see  How to Sew Cabin Cushion Covers .

10.  Replace the parts in the sailboat but leave it open with good air circulation until all the fumes dissipate. If you chose teak oil, it is slow to harden and it can take a couple of weeks for the fumes to go away completely.

After you refinish your interior teak, it might make the exterior woodwork look worse. To read about my different process for refinishing topside brightwork, see Restore Your Exterior Teak to Better Than New .

I’ve worked with tropical woods before in various woodworking projects, but I’ve come to love teak for its golden, irregular coloring, interesting grain patterns, weather resistance, and durable hardness. After you work with it, you’ll understand why it’s been the go-to wood of boat builders for hundreds of years. I plan to use it in several future projects that I have in mind. For some easy and practical woodworking projects and how to use other hardwoods that look like teak but are more economical, see:

Make a Door to Storage Space Under the V Berth Make a Door for More Storage Under the Galley Make this Easy and Elegant Wine Glass Rack Add More Cockpit Seating With DIY Stern Perch Seats Make This Fold-Up Paper Towel Holder

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19 thoughts on “ refinish your interior teak to better than new ”.

Just this morning I removed all of the interior wood on my Precision 23 and plan to follow your good instructions. Just curious – did you treat the mildew the same as you explained for your outdoor teak restoration project?

My interior teak was in pretty good shape so I didn’t have to, but I would have done it the same.

Good luck with your project!

OK, the mildew in your “before” picture must have come off during sanding. I’ll hope for the same. By the way, the links to Daly’s Wood Finish in your exterior teak page are dead – you might want to update these especially if it helps pay for a few bills!

Exactly right, Tom. It was just on the surface and came right off with light sanding. The exterior mildew had penetrated deep into the wood so it had to be treated chemically.

Thanks for the heads-up about the links. They’re fixed now.

Love your site! I am a Navy Veteran in SoCal looking to buy a cheap Catalina 25 for my first boat. You have given me inspiration to not only go ahead searching but great ideas for getting a great discount for things that look like easy DIY.

Dear Stingy Sailor,

I bought a Catalina 22 ( 70-something) just a few weeks ago. I’m toatally in love with it.

The bed in the front is just to small for me, so I’m thinking about removing the ‘wall’ between the front and the bench on the stirn side. All catalina 22 but one that I’ve seen on the net have this metal bracket that seems to connect the mid stay to this wall.

Do you have a reccomendation: is it really neccesary the keep it there or not so much? . Hope I’ll here from you.

Kind regards, Robert Amsterdam, Holland

Yes, the forward wooden bulkheads between the V berth and the main cabin area are CRITICAL structural components. They transfer the force of the upper shrouds down to the hull. If you remove them, you could severely damage your sailboat.

Instead, I’d recommend you remove the galley from the starboard berth so you can stretch your feet out under the cockpit. It’s narrow, but it should be long enough for you. Another alternative is to lower the dinette table to make the port berth and use the portable toilet compartment cover boards and an ice chest to fill in the center aisle and make a large berth in the salon area. This is how my wife and I sleep when anchored out. It’s quite spacious. You can see how we do it toward the end of How to Sew Cabin Cushion Covers

Thanks for your question.

Met Vriendelijke Groeten, $tingy

Am I understanding you correctly? You oil outside teak and then varnish it???

That’s right, Jim. Especially if you bleach it first. That takes almost all the color out of it. The oil brings it back.

$tingy, earlier this week I started the task of conditioning the teak on my Cat 22 with teak oil. I started with the crib boards and now am planning to move interior. I am a little apprehensive to pull the interior teak out. More so, just not sure how to go about it. Any tips?

Hello, Shanna

It all comes out pretty easily without many tricks. All of the fasteners are relatively easy to access except the four small machine screws along the bottom of each forward bulkhead. The nuts are inside the adjacent lockers so you have to be a bit of a contortionist to hold them yourself or have a helper hold them while you remove the screws.

Label each piece so that you know where it came from and keep the fasteners together for each piece. Sandwich bags work well for this. Taking pictures as you go can help too. There are several different sizes and types of fasteners used and it’s important that you replace the same sizes in the same locations.

The trickiest part of the job is reattaching the pieces. The screw holes can be randomly spaced and difficult to realign, especially for the long, thin strips along the hull/deck joint. But once you get a couple screws started, the rest should go easier.

It’s also important that the bulkheads are firmly anchored at the top by the chain plates and the bottom by those four machine screws. The bulkheads transfer the force from the upper shrouds to the hull so you don’t want them to be loose or your rig won’t stay in tune. For that reason, be sure the bottoms of the bulkheads aren’t rotted and soft.

Best of luck with your refinish. Let us know how it turns out! $tingy

Hello $tingy, I have my exterior teak sanded, bleached and ready for finish. Have you heard anything about using Starbrite teak sealer for a couple coats, then varnishing with the same varnish you used for another 5+ coats? Also did you use varnish on your interior or just the teak oil? If just teak oil, did it have a bit of gloss? Thanks for ALL the helpful tips!

Hi, Christian

I haven’t heard of anybody using sealer only under varnish but someone may well have tried it. I don’t see much purpose to it, though. Seal coats are typically just thinned varnish so that it penetrates, which is the same process that Epifanes recommends when applying their varnish.

I use only teak oil on my interior teak and yes, you can build it up to a nice gloss if you want to but it will take 3-5 coats to get there, whereas you could just apply one or two coats of varnish over one coat of teak oil and achieve much the same result.

Hope that helps!

Thank you for sharing this informative article! All the information provided by you is really very helpful for all. I agreed that by using tack cloth you can keep your project dust-free and it is useful for cleaning fine dust off a surface. Everyone should follow the tips provided by you, it will make their work easier. Keep Posting! Keep Sharing!

This couldn’t have come at a better time for me, just about to do some interior teak work before we fit a new teak and holly sole

I really appreciate your article. I am in the process of stripping all of the think varnish from the teak handrails and fittings on my grand banks trawler and was thinking about going with just teak oil instead of using a urethane finish. Does the oil leak on to the gelcoat over time? Was also considering maybe using awlwood which is water base but requires 8 or more coats.

No, it dries hard like the linseed oil in oil based paints.

Hello, We tried to take unbolt the starboard bulkhead where the chainplate is located due to some rot at the bottom the bulkhead after a leak started from the plate of the middle shroud the top of the chainplate on deck. It was very difficult to reach in and get a hold on the bolts! We also found that the bolts were not flush with the teak plywood wall. But were hanging out a few inches. Can the bulkhead be taken out by itself without removing other pieces? How do you get a grip on the bolts inside the interior area? We are fixing the deck leak with cleaning, polyurethane sealant, new slightly longer screws, backed up by Butyl tape. Also, I am considering using Git Rot for the bottom of the bulkhead rot for this season and taking out this bulkhead in the fall. Do you think that is a good solution? Thank you, Doris

Hi, Doris Yes, they’re hard to reach but critical that they provide a strong connection between the bulkhead and hull liner since they transfer all of the load of the upper shrouds to the hull structure. You might need to have a helper hold the nuts while you turn the screws. The original screws aren’t extra long so it sounds like a previous owner installed whatever they had on hand. You can remove the bulkhead for repair or replacement after slackening the shroud and disconnecting the chain plate. I recommend that over any quick fix that might not be strong enough.

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