iwc yacht club rubber strap

Gentleman Sailor: Testing the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

IWC launched the Portugieser Yacht Club in 2010 into the sporty yet elegant world of sailing. For 2020, the nautical chronograph model has a classic look and a steel bracelet upgrade. We give it a thorough review in this feature from the WatchTime archives.

The new IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is a watch you can wear with confidence anywhere at the marina. A first glance shows that the third generation of the sportiest Portugieser model, our test watch, is designed to be both a nautical timepiece and a luxury accessory. The first impression is confirmed upon closer inspection of its polished and satin-finish case, sunburst blue dial and brightly polished hands. Every component is flawlessly finished and worthy to be part of the supremely elegant Portugieser collection.

For the first time in its 10-plus-year history, this Portugieser Yacht Club boasts a steel bracelet rather than a rubber or leather strap — a sturdy but elegant IWC steel bracelet with brushed outer links and polished inner links. Shortening the bracelet involves simply pressing a button on the back of each row of sturdy links to remove it. Unlike simpler bracelet designs, using screws or hammering is not needed.

Inside the safety folding clasp, there is also a quick extension piece that quickly and easily lengthens the bracelet by up to 7 mm. Pressing the polished “IWC” button on the outer bar of the clasp extends the bracelet in seven increments — without ever removing the watch from your wrist. Two safety buttons round out the sturdy and well-designed folding clasp.

Detailed Modifications In addition to the bracelet, the dial has also been updated. The central chronograph hand is now steel-gray instead of red, and the date window has been shifted from the 3 o’clock position to the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Both changes enhance the elegance of the Yacht Club and were well received by our editorial staff.

The elegant impression is diminished, however, by the enlargement of the already considerable stainless-steel case from 43.5 mm to 44.6 mm. Our editorial staff admitted that no one among them had a wrist to match its substantial dimensions.

Even so, the large, heavy watch is quite comfortable to wear thanks to ergonomically shaped sloping lugs and a supple steel bracelet. Unfortunately, the flexibility and adjustability of the IWC’s bracelet results in relatively large gaps between the links, which can catch and pull hair.

Proven Technology Components taken from earlier generations of the Yacht Club include the sturdy and powerful in-house movement, Caliber 89361, with many excellent features like a 68-hour power reserve; a traditional column-wheel control mechanism; the brand’s own exceptionally efficient Pellaton dual-pawl winding system; a free-sprung, temperature-resistant Glucydur balance wheel; and a flyback function for the direct restarting of the running chronograph. It can also show off beautiful decorative finishes, gold-enhanced engraving and a gold IWC medallion on the skeletonized oscillating rotor. Another feature of the in-house movement is the combined 12-hour and 60-minute counter in the upper half of the dial, which is intended to show elapsed time intuitively, as on a clock. The combined counter is too small for everyday use, however, and its markings are too fine to read elapsed time to the minute quickly and easily. The chronograph seconds track around the dial is also extremely fine, and the central chronograph seconds hand is insufficiently long to fully reach it. In sum, it’s a mixed bag, with clearly legible time and date, and elapsed time that is much more difficult to read.

Accurate Rate Our rate test revealed more about the Swiss movement. The electronic timing machine showed a negligibly small daily rate of +0.8 seconds, a maximum deviation between the positions of only 4 seconds and almost the same values when the chronograph is engaged. A two-week wearing test confirmed the small daily deviation with values between zero and +2 seconds — making our test watch a reliable partner for everyday use.

In addition to the movement, another feature of the Yacht Club that hasn’t changed arouses mixed feelings — the pressure resistance of six bar that corresponds to water pressure at a depth of 60 meters. Although this may sound like a lot at first, the water resistance as it is tested under laboratory conditions is rather low for a nautical luxury sports watch linked to the world of sailing. Coming in contact with spray or waves means a watch should be resistant to at least 10 bar or 100 meters to ensure a certain degree of security in a variety of different environments. And even though this still isn’t a lot, it is the current standard for any water sports watch not explicitly designed for diving.

Advice for boat owners is simply this: it’s better to wear this watch in the evening, below deck, or to dinner at the marina, and either take it easy onboard during the day or rely on a sports watch that is clearly defined as such. The new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph is well equipped for normal everyday wear and light sports activities — and is the perfect gentleman sailor for social events on or below deck.

SPECS: Manufacturer: IWC Schaffhausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8201 Schaffhausen, Switzerland Reference number: IW390701 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph with combined 60-minute and 12-hour counter, date Movement: In-house Caliber 89361, automatic, 28,800 vph, 38 jewels, hack mechanism, quick date adjustment, Incabloc shock absorber, column wheel, fine regulator with screw weights, Glucydur balance, 68-hour power reserve, diameter = 30 mm, height = 7.5 mm Case: Stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides, screw-down crown, threaded caseback with sapphire crystal viewing window, water resistant to 60 m Bracelet and cla­­sp: Stainless-steel bracelet with safety folding clasp and quick extension Rate results (deviation in seconds per 24 hours, with chronograph switched off/on): Dial up 0 / +1 Dial down +3 / +2 Crown up -1 / -2 Crown down +2 / +2 Crown left +2 / +3 Crown right -1 / -3 Greatest deviation 4 / 6 Average deviation +0.8 / +0.5 Average amplitude: Flat positions 287° / 273° Hanging positions 257° / 236° Dimensions: Diameter = 44.6 mm, height = 14.3 mm, weight = 170 grams Variations: With silver dial (Ref. IW390702, $13,100); with stainless-steel and rose-gold case and bracelet (Ref. IW390703, $19,900) Price: $13,100

SCORES: Strap and clasp (max. 10 points): Very attractive, highly functional stainless-steel bracelet with safety folding clasp and quick extension. Large gaps between links. 9 ­­­ Operation (5): Generously sized, smoothly operating pushers are easier to use than the screw-down crown. The large crown is easy to turn but needs some force to pull out. The chronograph has a flyback function for direct restart of an ongoing timing sequence. 4 Case (10): The case is beautifully finished but is rather simple and water resistant to only 60 meters. 8 Design (15): Attractive combination of sportiness and elegance. The superior quality of every component is easily apparent. 14 Legibility (5): The time and date are both easy to read, but elapsed time presents more difficulty. Bright luminous material. 4 Wearing comfort (10): The heavy watch lies comfortably on the wrist, but the metal bracelet catches fine wrist hair. 7 Movement (20): The in-house caliber stands out with its column wheel, Glucydur balance, fine regulation, extended power reserve, efficient dual-pawl winding mechanism and attractive decorations. 17 Rate results (10): The watch can boast absolute reliability with an average daily gain of 0.8 seconds and a maximum deviation between the positions of 4 seconds. Individual values are similar even when the chronograph is engaged. 9 Overall value (15): IWC has created a luxury chronograph at a high price, but it has a lot to offer. 11 Total: 83 POINTS

Beautiful execution of details. Good to see that IWC decided to upgrade the Portugieser from quasigirly watch to man-sized. It’s hardly an Arni watch though.

I would buy this watch in a second (no pun intended) except for the high price. As for the increased diameter, I have a large wrist and do not buy watches less than 43 mm. Smaller diameters look terrible on me. If you need a large diameter watch reviewer, let me know. Thanks.

Two big problems for me. The size (too big), very few people have wrist size like Arni, water tightness 60m is a joke.

I really like this IWC watch, however, it’s shallow water resistance at the price, is a non-starter. IWC is certainly capable of increasing the water resistance range.

I always enjoy my Watchtime magazine when it arrives, and the email updates. Regarding IWC’s new Yacht Club, I think it is a beautiful watch. I have a large wrist, so, I will not wear a watch under 43mm. Smaller watches look too small. I do have trouble with the 60 meter water resistance, but find myself looking at this watch over and over in your magazine. That is when I know I want it. Hope to order one in the near future.

I’m veary interested in watches and would love to know more about them. I would like to see , the new modells.

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Article: Strap Guide – The IWC Portugieser

Strap Guide – The IWC Portugieser

Welcome to the Bulang and Sons Strap Guide. Our aim is to showcase some of our most popular straps on a range of iconic watches so you can see how the different combinations work.

The Classic IWC Chrono

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it – so goes the old saying. Nothing could be truer when looking at the IWC Portugieser ref 3714, which has remained completely unaltered since it was introduced in 1998 and it is still one of the most sought after watches by IWC. A lot of collectors either had or wanted a Portugieser in their early collecting life, so strong is the watch’s appeal.

The watch is a very wearable 41mm in steel and houses an automatic mechanism, calibre 79350, based on a Valjoux movement. The two sub-dial layout is a nod to marine chronometers and the arabic numerals and leaf hands lend the watch a classical timeless elegance – the perfect sports and dress watch fusion. We’ve curated our favorite looks for this iconic watch and have a range of both two piece and nato -style straps for you to choose from.

Buying your perfect strap couldn’t be easier – click on your favourite combination and you will be directed to the product in our shop, where you can easily check out.

20mm – Siena Brown Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Nautic Basket Weave Black Rubber Watch Strap

20mm – Mountain Brown Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Rugged Grey Boxed Stitch Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Racing Black Speedy Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Gilt Brown Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Degrade Chilli Red Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Taurillon Creme Heritage Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Black Boxed Stitch Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Cinnamon Brown Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Taurillon Black Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Siena Brown Boxed Stitch Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Cognac Brown Ostrich Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Taurillon Grey Heritage Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Antique Brown Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Caramel Brown Nato Leather Watch Strap

20mm – Deluxe Nylon Nato Watch Strap Pure Black

20mm – Deluxe Nylon Nato Watch Strap Pure Grey

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Introducing The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

A nautical theme to the extreme..

If you're going to make a watch line up dedicated to the yacht club – which IWC established as a subset of the Portugieser in 2010 – a tide-indicating complication only makes natural sense. (The name was first used, of course, in 1967, for a watch intended to be an all-weather but still club-elegant sports watch.) So, 10 years into the Yacht Club family line, IWC has just announced the new reference IW344001 Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide. Presented in red gold with a shining blue dial and a matching blue rubber strap, this new Portugieser certainly looks the part while debuting IWC's newly developed tide-following complication. 

First things first, with a 44.6mm wide case, the Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is as large as it is pretty. The Yacht Club line has always done a good job of communicating a blend of both sport and elegance. While the use of a gold case on the Yacht Club Moon & Tide is decidedly foncy, the blue rubber strap does a nice job of striking a boat-ready balance. I especially like the red dial details, the clarity of the overall display, and the splash-ready 30 meters of water resistance. 

Using a newly-developed caliber 82835 manufacture movement, the Yacht Club Moon & Tide offers a brand new feature set that expands upon the dual hemisphere moon phase display that IWC has made strong use of with many of their perpetual calendar models. With a minimal addition of text surrounding the moon phase display, the Yacht Club Moon & Tide also notes the strength of the tides by making a differentiation between spring and neap tides. 

Combine that slight moon phase modification with a novel tide timing indication at six o'clock, and you've got a $34,000 IWC that can help you to better manage the ebb and flow of the tides. While not many of us need a watch that can offer such information, the complication feels both right at home within the Portugieser Yacht Club line up and a fittingly nautical way of saluting the Yacht Club on its 10th anniversary. 

Brand: IWC Model: Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide Reference Number: IW344001

Diameter: 44.6mm Thickness: 14.4mm Case Material: 18k 5N pink gold Dial Color: Blue Indexes: Applied, gold   Lume: Yes. Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Blue rubber strap 

Caliber: 82835 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon phase for both hemispheres, and an indication of next high and low tide Power Reserve: 60 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 22 

Price: $33,100 Availability: TBD

For more, click here.

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Hands-On Debut: IWC Portugieser Yacht Club With New Moon & Tide Complication

In this, the year of our Portugieser 2020, IWC also just released some new Portugieser Yacht Club watches as part of Watches & Wonders 2020 . The Yacht Club has always been an interesting sub-category of the Portugieser, intended to be a sportier breed with features like rubber strap and lume. So far, IWC has only produced the Yacht Club in a flyback chronograph, but this year they’ve added a new model that boasts a new complication for the brand, as well, in the form of a Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide model that has a moon phase and a new tide-tracking complication, which I believe is technically a Mareoscope.

The Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is debuting in just one variant, but it’s close to universally attractive, coming in a red gold case with brilliant blue dial with matching gold-plated hands and indices. At 12 o’clock, you can see the double moon phase display that shows Spring tides (which happen during full and new moons) and neap tides. At 6 o’clock is the subdial showing the anticipated times for high or low tide. IWC paid attention to the details here, with guilloché work, gold accents, and an applied gold plate around the circumference of the 6 o’clock subdial. As far as legibility goes, there is double-sided AR coating on the convex sapphire crystal, something I always appreciate.

It takes 24 hours and 48 minutes for the earth and moon to be in the same position, meaning that the time between two high tides is always 12 hours and 24 minutes. To measure the tides, IWC added a 49-part module to its 82835 calibre movement. Installing a three-cogged reducing gear to the hour pinion slows down the rotation of the tidal discs, allowing the disc to rotate around its axis every 14.76 days. Note that the time of the next tide is always approximate due to the fact that the discs are continually moving. So, if you’re checking at 10 o’clock AM and the indicator points to 12 o’clock, the tide will actually be slightly after 12. This discrepancy comes out to 10 minutes over 100 years.

It’s an uncommon complication on a mechanical watch, and I can only think of the Corum Admiral with a tide complication, a vintage Eberhard chronograph, and the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia from 2017 that include it. I do know that Sinn, as well as some vintage Heuers, have a less robust version of a tide complication.

Visible through the caseback of the IWC Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the 82835 calibre operates at 28,800 vph and has a 60-hour power reserve.

The red gold case measures 44.6mm-wide and 14.4mm-thick, with a water resistance of 30M, so wear it at the Yacht and/or Club but leave it out of the pool. IWC has added a new filigree bezel matched with a flat casing ring which help make for a pretty attractive-looking case that avoids being generic. And at 14.4mm-thick, the bezel adds a nice framing that ameliorates potential chunkiness.

While IWC introduced a bracelet to the Yacht Club Chronograph, the Moon & Tide comes on a blue rubber and textile strap that the collection has become associated with. Of course, the buckle matches the red gold case here.

The IWC Portugieser Moon & Tide is a cool and idiosyncratic piece that is marketed to a very, very niche type of buyer. The tide indicator is a difficult complication to pull off in a mechanical watch, which is why you rarely see it. For that, you have to give IWC serious credit. A gold watch with excellent finishing and a new intricately elaborate complication, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide is priced at $34,000 USD . You can learn more at iwc.com .

*Please note that you are pre-ordering this item, and you will not receive it immediately. For lead times, please email [email protected]. We will ship this item to you as soon as we receive it back in stock.

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• PORTOFINO HAND-WOUND MOON PHASE
• PORTOFINO HAND-WOUND EIGHT DAYS
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• PORTOFINO CHRONOGRAPH 39 EDITION "LAUREUS SPORT FOR GOOD"
• PORTOFINO CHRONOGRAPH 39
• PORTOFINO AUTOMATIC MOON PHASE
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Our shipping cutoff time is 3 p.m. EST. If your order is placed before then, processing will start that day. If placed after that time, processing will start the next business day. 

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Our online return policy is exclusive to orders placed at horusstraps.com and does not apply to products purchased in our showroom or any authorized retailer.

You may exchange your order or return it for a full refund within 30 days of purchase, as long as the product is unworn and in perfect condition. Please note that the buyer is responsible for paying all associated shipping costs.  All international orders are responsible for the transit cost back to us including any duty and taxes are the implemented by the returning countries policy.

If you would like to return or exchange your order, please email  [email protected] and include your order number and reason for return, and we will reply with the necessary steps to initiate your return or exchange. A full refund, less shipping charges and return shipping costs, will be issued if the product(s) are returned to us in their original condition in the original box within 30 days.

In circumstances when an item is approved for a return after 30 days, a 25% re-stocking fee will be charged.

Online Exchange Policy

Our exchange policy is exclusive to orders placed at horusstraps.com and does not apply to orders placed with any authorized retailer. If you would like to exchange your order, or part of your order, please email [email protected] for approval and instructions. An exchange will be issued if the product(s) are returned to us in their original condition in the original box within 30 days.

All international orders are responsible for the transit cost back to us including any duty and taxes are the implemented by the returning countries policy.

We recommend using a return service that includes tracking and insurance as Horus Watch Straps cannot be liable for items lost or damaged in transit back to us.

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Review IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

IWC Schaffhausen  and  Orlebar Brown have announced back in July their collaboration piece, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” . Due to the travelling and general restriction imposed by the infamous COVID19, I have seen the watch in the metal just at the end of August. Even if the summer is over, the “Orlebar Brown” Portugieser Yacht Club deserves to be presented – a lovely addition in the Portugieser Collection and a nice collaboration. 

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown”

I loved this watch from its digital launch. So I was very happy to finally get to see it at IWC Geneva Boutique during the Geneva Watch Days. The watch looks much better in the metal than the pictures reveal so if you are interested, I recommend to see it live.

Portugieser at heart, Portugieser in the look

The Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is one of those more special Portugieser – while keeping the known general aspects, some details are personalised by the Orlebar Brown collaboration.

The watch comes in a large 44.6 mm stainless steel case. Its dimensions are not obvious, the Edition “Orlebar Brown” wearing, as all the Portugieser large pieces, smaller than expected.

The case is designed to fit comfortable a large variety of wrist sizes. The caseband integrates the inward bent lugs. Even the brushing is extended on the lugs’ sides for a homogenous look. The rest of the surfaces are mirror polished. The strap integration is realised without any empty spaces.

The IWC Probus Scafusia decorated crown is surrounded by a raised polished crown protection. The protection bump also integrates the chrono pushers. The pushers have a wide but relatively thin topper. The entire appearance is nicely designed. The case details are quite handsome.

One of the eye-catching details of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is the strap. The blue rubber strap with textile inlay looks charming and offer very comfortable wear. It contributes to the smaller wear of the elegantly-proportioned case.

The buckle bears the sign of the IWC and Orlebar Brown collaboration deeply engraved in the metal. This buckle offers a secure sit on the wrist and it is a nice combination for the watch and strap.

A dial inspired by sea and sailing

The IWC Yacht Club “Orlebar Brown” has a gorgeous dial combining bleu-marine, white and red. With a vertical layout, the watch has a handsome face. The 12 o’clock areal presents the 60 minutes and 12 hours chronograph totaliser. The stepped down sub-dial presents two registers: the minutes counter on a circular pattern with white and red printing; the hours’ counter is central with printing on a flat surface. The elements are well delimited and offer good legibility. The chronograph’s seconds indication is realised with a central red hand that runs against the white inner bezel with blue printing.

The time display uses central hours and minutes elongated leaf hands with skeletonised centre and SuperLuminova fill. The hours’ indexes have double representation: applied metal Arabic numeral with the Portugieser known font and short baton indexes with SuperLuminova fill – another rather familiar detail. The minutes use a white printed railtrack that can also serve as an indication for the central chrono hands for an ease in legibility.

The lower side of the dial, at 6 o’clock, presents the running seconds. The subdial is subtly recessed and it is decorated with a circular pattern in the same granulation as the one met at the chrono’s minutes’ counter. The indexes and numerals are printed in blue. The date is printed in black on a white background and can be easily observed via a windowed aperture, as part of the small seconds’ dial.

As additional decoration, the dial of the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” bears the name of the brand at 3 o’clock and the “Yacht Club” name at 9 o’clock. The Swiss-made marking is displayed at 6 o’clock as a break in the minute’s railtrack.

Calibre 89361 – a classic IWC movement

The Orlebar Brown Yacht Club is powered by the impressive Calibre 89361. This automatic movement powered by a 4Hz balance wheel offers an impressive set of features like the flyback chrono, hacking seconds, quick set date and a long power reserve of 68 hours due to its double barrel design and bi-directional winding.

Calibre 89361 is used in several IWC families for chronographs: Ingenieur, Da Vinci, Aquatimer , Pilot and, of course, Portugieser . The movement uses a double-clutch design with a vertical clutch for coupling and a column wheel for actuation. The combination of the two decreases the wear of the gear train with an increase of reliability over time. The system also helps the overall chronometry by decreasing the loss of amplitude by the chrono’s activation. Looking at the winding mechanism, I was wondering if this is the four pawl system patented by Jean-Francois Mojon and Norberto Perucchi fifteen years ago?

The movement does not particularly excel on the finishes side. Mostly industrial but fine and well-executed, the adornment of the Calibre 89361 deserves a look through the exhibition case back.

It has the looks, it has the brains

The IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” is a beautiful watch with a pleasant layout and nice colour scheme. The look can be overshadowed only by the technically impressive in-house movement, the Calibre 89361. The back offers a compelling view too.

Definitively, it has a sporty appearance. Regardless if worn as a daily driver, at the beach or by sailing, the watch offers comfortable wear even for smaller wrists.  I have an 18cm/7inch wrist and I usually tend to stop at a diametre of 41-42mm. But I didn’t realise how big the watch actually is. So a strong point for a small wrist to give it a chance.

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition “Orlebar Brown” Technical Specifications and Price

REF. IW390704

• Chronograph function with hours, minutes and seconds
• Hour and minute counters combined in a totalizer at 12 o’clock
• Flyback function
• Date display
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Small hacking seconds
• 89361 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic, self-winding
• 68 hours Power Reserve
• Frequency 28800.0 vph (4.0 Hz)
• 299 Components
• Côtes de Genève, perlage
• Stainless steel case
• Diameter 44.6  mm
• Height 14.3  mm
• Screw-in crown
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water-resistance 6 bar
• Blue dial with luminescence
• Blue rubber strap with textile inlay
• Strap width 22 mm
• 11.800 € , Price includes taxes and shipping.

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