sailboat rig tension gauge

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The $tingy Sailor

Diy trailerable sailboat restoration and improvement without throwing your budget overboard.

How To Measure Standing Rigging Tension

Whether or not you’ve replaced your standing rigging, you may be wondering how to adjust it. How tight should the rig be? How can you measure it? After all, what good is great rigging if it isn’t tensioned properly to perform its best?

Before I continue, a bit of legal housekeeping. This post contains affiliate links. That means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase using those links. Those commissions help to pay the costs associated with running this site so that it stays free for everyone to enjoy. For a complete explanation of why I’m telling you this and how you can support this blog without paying more, please read my full disclosure .

A properly tuned rig isn’t only important for racing, it’s also a good idea for cruisers. It minimizes uneven stress and wear on hardware, it’s safer, and it protects the shape of your sails.

Close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades

Unfortunately, without a tension gauge, tuning your rig is mostly subjective guesswork.

The 1987 (last) edition of the Catalina 22 Owner’s Manual and General Handbook puts it this way:

Adjust forestay and backstay so that the mast is straight up and down. The upper shrouds should be firm but not far apart . A 50 pound push should deflect the upper shroud about 1″ at shoulder height. The lower shrouds (4 of them) should be adjusted so that they are looser than the upper shrouds. While at dock, they should have no slack , but no tension either. No lower shrouds, when pushed, should deflect the mast more than any other shroud when pushed equally hard. If this can’t be achieved, the upper shrouds are too tight. Back off one-half turn at a time on the upper shroud turnbuckles until the tension of the lower shrouds is brought into balance . [Emphasis added]

Not very precise, huh? It doesn’t take very much tension at all on the forestay and backstay just to make the mast plumb and that’s too loose for anything but light air sailing. How much is “far apart?” How exactly do you measure a 50 pound push horizontally against a wire at shoulder height? Standing where, on the cabin or on the deck? How much is “looser” but “without tension?” How do you measure balance between four shrouds without a tool?

That’s like your mechanic telling you that the best way to tune your car’s engine is by ear alone so that it idles well but not too fast and not too slow. It should accelerate smoothly with good power but no cylinder should exceed 10% less compression than any other.

You can’t lose with a Loos

You can skip all the guesswork with a tension gauge. Loos & Co. has manufactured cable in the US for over 50 years. They make the most popular and economical tension gauge for sailors. It’s available in several models depending on the range of cable sizes that you want to measure.

The current model numbers are:

• PT-1 (3/32″ to 5/32″)
• PT-2 (3/16″ to 1/4″)
• PT-3 (1/4″ to 3/8″)

Older models of the gauge can still be found for sale new and used:

• Model A (3/32″ to 5/32″)
• Model B (3/16″ to 9/32″)

The major differences between the newer models and the older models are:

• The older models use a flat spring built into the gauge to measure the tension. The newer models use a coil spring.
• The older models have a slot for the cable. Measuring very tight cables can produce a very slight kink in the cable. The newer models have two round, plastic guides that don’t harm the cable.
• You read the tension on the bottom of the older models. This means you either have to stoop down to read the gauge or use the gauge over your head. You can read the tension on the front of the newer models from a more natural stance.
• The older models have fewer parts and are all metal construction except for the lanyard. The newer models have more parts, some of which are plastic.
• Unlike the older models, the newer models can be hooked onto the cable while you are measuring it so that you can read the tension and your hands are free to adjust the turnbuckle. This is a nice feature that reduces trial and error.

Each gauge has handy notches in the side for measuring cable diameter.

The gauges work on the principle that if you bend a cable by applying a specific amount force, it will bend more or less depending on the size of the cable and how much tension is on the cable. The larger or the more tension on the cable, the less bend. The smaller or the less tension on the cable, the more bend. The gauges use a spring (flat or coil) to measure the amount of bend that results when you bend a cable slightly and they convert that amount into a tension number.

Dialing it in

I use my gauge whenever I modify my standing rigging in any way and periodically to recheck it, especially because I step the mast for every launch.

To measure tension with an older model Loos gauge (the process is slightly different for the newer models):

1. Hook the gauge on the cable. If you have cable covers on the cable, the gauge won’t fit over them, hook the gauge on a bare part of the cable. You read the gauge from the bottom so hook it over your head.

2. Pull the lanyard until the indicator aligns with the mark on the gauge.

3. Read the (bend) number from the scale.

4. Measure the cable size and look up the tension in pounds that corresponds to the cable size in the chart on the gauge. This step is optional unless you’re trying to set the tension to match a recommendation stated in pounds of tension (300, for example). Some recommendations are stated as the equivalent and easier to remember scale number (24, for example). In that case, you don’t need to look up the tension in pounds.

When you know the cable’s tension, you can adjust its turnbuckle to either increase or decrease the tension by measurable amounts. With a little trial and error, you can “dial in” a very accurate amount of tension. Dial in all of your stays and shrouds, and you will have a well-tuned rig. For instructions on using the new model gauges and a video, go to How to use PT Series Tension Gauges .

Once you get your basic rig tension set, you only need to remember the scale numbers and you can confidently adjust it to best suit your style of sailing or changing conditions. There are good guides available online that recommend settings for different conditions. One of the better ones for the Catalina 22 is the Catalina 22 Tuning Guide from North Sails. They have guides for other sailboats as well.

If you don’t know anybody that you can borrow a gauge from, consider getting one of your own from Amazon . Then you’ll have one to loan to others in need.

Stop hoping that your rig tension is close enough. Tool up and dial it in!

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16 thoughts on “ how to measure standing rigging tension ”.

Hey Ken……One of your better articles. Thanks. This has always been a point of interest for us!

Thank you, $tingy! What a great resource!

Ken, for those who don’t want to fork out roughly a $100 bucks for the gauge, they can use my poor man’s version too, which I adopted from a great resource on rig tuning (“Sail & Rig Tuning” by Ivar Dedekam). To determine wire “tension,” I measure wire “stretch.” I do this by first marking a 1-meter length on the respective wire PRIOR TO TIGHTENING TURNBUCKLES. Every 1.0 mm of stretch equals 10% of the wire’s breaking strength, so if I wanted to set my wire’s tension at 15% of breaking strength, I would start applying tension (by tightening my turnbuckles) until the 1-meter length has been stretched to 1-meter plus 1.5 mm. The wire would then be tensioned at 15% of the wire’s breaking strength. If you wanted to use 20% as your base tension, then you would tighten your turnbuckles until the wire stretched an additional 2.0 mm. (Note: This only applies to wire, not rod rigging.) Thanks for another great article!

Good point, Diego. That’s a good way to get in the ballpark.

Thanks Ken. I have an old model Loos that I’ve been using for almost 10 years. I like that it’s got very few moving parts 😉 and i’m pretty sure it’ll hold up another 10 years with no problem. For reference I use the North Sails tuning guide figures you mentioned.

For anyone just starting, keep in mind that you’ll get a lot faster doing it once you’ve done it a few times.

The old ones are built tough. The ability of the new ones to clip it onto a shroud and dial in the right tension on the first try would be convenient, though.

The owner’s manual for the Cat 25 says the standing rigging sizes are 1/8, 5/32, and 3/16. Does that mean I will need both a PT-1 and a PT-2 Loos gauge? The real question: Since I am not going to buy two, which rigging is the most important to tune? The back and fore stays or the the shrouds? Seems to me I ought to be able to “eyeball” the fore and aft rake and use the gauge on the the shrouds. Your opinion?

Hi, Stephen

You must be looking at the halyard wire sizes being 1/8″. All the standing rigging on a C-25 is 5/32″ or 3/16″. At any rate, I wouldn’t want to buy two gauges either.

The shrouds are the most important because they hold your mast in column and centered on the sailboat. The forestay and backstay tension can be adjusted with the backstay adjuster (assuming you have one) depending on sailing conditions so the gauge isn’t as useful for those.

If it were me, I’d get a PT-2 so I knew my upper shrouds were correctly tensioned. Then I’d either extrapolate the 3/16″ settings down to 5/32″ mathematically or borrow a smaller gauge, set the tension on the lower shrouds and then see what the corresponding setting is on the PT-2 and label it right on the gauge. Do that for several settings and you should have a one-size-fits all gauge.

Thanks. Good advice as usual.

On Sun, Jun 26, 2016 at 9:19 PM, The $tingy Sailor wrote:

> $tingy Sailor commented: “Hi, Stephen You must be looking at the halyard > wire sizes being 1/8″. All the standing rigging on a C-25 is 5/32″ or > 3/16″. At any rate, I wouldn’t want to buy two gauges either. The shrouds > are the most important because they hold your mast in column a” >

I’m a new C-22 owner (1985 model year). Should I go with the PT-1 version? I believe I have the original rigging. Thanks for a most helpful post for this novice sailor!

Welcome to the tribe, Tom

Yep, a new model PT-1 or old model A is what you want.

Perfect. Thanks!

Hi Ken. I’m a new owner of a 1973 C22. I bought the PT1. I’m having a hard time finding what my tension should be. Can you share what tension you use? Thanks for all the great info. I’m a fan!

I use the North Sails guidelines as a starting point, which are 28 on the upper shrouds and 24 on the lowers.

This is a very helpful article. Thank you!

My boat is a Catalina/Capri 18. Would you suggest I use the same tensions as you did for your 22?

George Ryan

They might be a little too high. Search the North Sails website for a tuning guide specifically for your 18. If you can’t find one, look for a Capri 18 forum online where you can ask other owners what they’ve found or used.

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Loos Cableware

The industry leader in aircraft cable accessories, pulleys, swaging tools, and cable cutters, what type of tension gauge do i need for my sailboat.

One of the most common tools found in the sailboat user’s locker are tensions gauges. Good tension gauges allow you to accurately measure cable tension on the standing rigging of sailboats as well as architectural railings. Here at Loos & Co., Inc. Cableware Division , our tensions gauges offer ±5% accuracy in measuring cable tension and we have five different models available. Continue reading for an overview of our tension gauge products .

90 Model B:

The 90 Model B is the perfect gauge for 302/304 1x19 Stainless steel in appropriate sizes. The gauge is manufactured of anodized aluminum, meaning the gauge is corrosion resistant. The resistance to corrosion allows the tool to provide numerous years of service.

91 Model A:

The 90 Model A gauge is very similar in build to the Model A however it is intended for slightly different cable sizes. Model B should be used with 3/16”, 7/32”, ¼”, and 9/32” cable sizes while Model A is intended for 3/32”, 1/8”, and 5/32” cable sizes.

Professional Model PT-CR:

Our PT-CR Professional Model tension gauge is specifically designed to provide tension measurements in architectural cable railing systems. The gauge easily shows readings between 200 to 400 lbs. The PT-CR gauge is designed to measure cable tension in lbs. for 1x19 cables in 1/8”, 3/16”, and 1/4” sizes.

Professional Models:

Our Professional Models refer to our PT-1, PT-2, and PT-3 gauges. These gauges have many uses, including setting the proper tension in standing rigging of sailboats and also for supporting cables in radio towers, large tents, and other structures. The gauges have a durable build that allow for many years of service in marine elements. The professional model gauges have increased durability and accuracy when compared to standard models. These models are also very easy to use.

Rod Rigging Gauges:

Our Rod Rigging gauges measure tensions in rods from .172 to .375 inches in diameter. Our rod rigging gauges are corrosive resistant as a result of being manufactured from anodized aluminum. We offer four different variations of rod rigging gauges, RT-10, RT-11, RT-10M, and RT-11M. Each gauge type is compatible with different rod sizes.

If you want to learn more about our highly accurate and reliable tensions gauges, check out our product page ! You can find specific details on each of our tension gauges to ensure you choose the one best suited to your tension gauge needs! Alternatively, if you have any other questions, our team is happy to help! Reach out to us by email at [email protected] or by phone at (239) 643-LOOS (5667) .       

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Loos Co Rigging - Tension Gauges

Tension Gauge for Rods -12 to -22 Rods

Tension Gauge for Rods -4 to -12 Rods

Tension Gauge Model A for 2.5 to 4 mm wire

Tension Gauge Model A for 3/32" to 5/32" wire

Tension Gauge Model B for 3/16" to 9/32" wire

Tension Gauge Model B for 5 to 7 mm wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT1 for 3/32" to 5/32" wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT1M for 2.5 to 4 mm wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT2 for 3/16" to 1/4" wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT2M for 5 to 7 mm wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT3 for 9/32" to 3/8" wire

Tension Gauge PRO PT3M for 7 to 10 mm wire

The Loos tension gauges take the guesswork out of cable or rod tension adjustment. They are especially designed for accurate, repeatable tuning of a sailboat's standing rigging.

Contrary to popular thought, a slack rig is more punishing on a hull than a properly adjusted, tight rig. Insufficient tension will not reduce the loads transmitted in the hull. Slack rigging will punish the spar and rigging needlessly by allowing excessive movement, chafe and shock loading. Modern fiberglass hulls should not be damaged by a properly adjusted, tight rig.

The lateral stiffness of the mast and the fore and aft stiffness of the spreaders is reduced by a factor of 2 when the leeward shrouds go slack. This Important structural characteristic is not generally recognized.

Rigging tension is becoming more important as a result of the trend toward the use of mast bend to control mainsail shape under different wind conditions. Mast bend will also affect the shape and trim of the jib, since mast adjustment generally affects forestay tension. The expert skipper will benefit by maintaining consistent rigging tension while developing the optimum sail shape and sailing tactics.

MAURIPRO Sailing, your direct access to Loos Co Sailboat Tension Gauge and all your other sailing and boating needs.

Copyright © 2024 MAURIPRO Sailing LLC.

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• Test, Measure & Inspect
• Motion, Speed & Force
• Force Gauges

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Loos & Co. - 04.573.01 Sailboat Rigging Tension Gauge, PT-1M Professional Metric Hands-Free Force Gauge, Cable Rigs, Wire Rope Standing Rigging for 2.5, 3, and 4 milimeter Cable Diameter, 360 kg

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About this item

• Measures tension in cables to check for proper setup in sail rigging and supporting cables for large tents, radio towers, and other structures
• Analog gauge shows present tension in kilograms (kg)
• Measurement accuracy of + or - 5 percent
• Measures tension from approximately 5 to 25 percent of the cable's breaking strength
• Can remain hooked on the wire during testing while tension is adjusted

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Product details

• Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ No
• Package Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 13.19 x 5.67 x 1.77 inches; 10.93 ounces
• Item model number ‏ : ‎ LKPT1M
• Date First Available ‏ : ‎ February 19, 2010
• Manufacturer ‏ : ‎ Loos & Co
• ASIN ‏ : ‎ B001ESYZ1C
• Country of Origin ‏ : ‎ USA
• #9 in Force Gauges

Product Description

The Loos Cableware metric tension gauge measures the tension in cables to check for proper setup in sail rigging and supporting cables for large tents, radio towers, and other structures. This analog gauge shows present tension in kilograms (kg) and has a measurement accuracy of + or - 5 percent. The gauge shows readings on a graduated scale, and a calibration table on the unit converts a scale reading to the corresponding present tension and percentage breaking strength of the rope, based on 302/304 1 x 19 stainless-steel wire rope. The gauge can remain hooked on the wire during testing while the tension is adjusted. The Loos Cableware metric tension gauge has an anodized aluminum body that resists corrosion and wear. A 1/4" hole on the gauge's body allows a lanyard or hook to be attached to the gauge for securing it to the cable.

Force gauges, also called push-pull gauges or tension gauges, measure the tensile (pull) or compression (push) force applied to an object. They are used to test the strength and functionality of a variety of machines, electronic components, cables, wires, and consumer products in scientific, medical, automotive, quality assurance, and manufacturing applications. A digital force gauge shows the amount of force in digits on the gauge's display. Response time varies among digital force gauges depending on the speed of the processor. An analog (or mechanical) force gauge shows measurements on a calibrated dial. Analog force gauges are not as precise as digital force gauges, but they provide instantaneous measurements and can be used in a wider range of environmental conditions than digital force gauges. Hooks, compression plates, levers, handles, test stands, and other accessories can be used with the gauge for taking measurements on objects with a range of shapes and sizes.

Loos & Co. manufactures aircraft cable and wire rope and related measurement tools. The company, founded in 1958 and headquartered in Pomfret, CT, meets International Organization for Standardization (ISO) standard 9001.

From the manufacturer

Loos Collection of Tension Gauges

Loos Cableware Division offers a series of gauges to measure the tension in cables and rods from 3/32 to 3/8 inch in diameter (2.5 mm to 10 mm). These gauges are designed for setting the proper tension in the standing rigging of sailboats and also for other applications such as supporting cables for radio towers, large tents and other structures. The gauges are relatively inexpensive and are designed to be suitable for rugged marine service. The "Professional Models" provide an increasing durability, accuracy and convenience of use when compared to our popular standard models. The gauge may be hooked on the wire and will remain in position while the tension is adjusted. Manufactured of rugged anodized aluminum, this gauge is corrosive resistant and will give years of service. Detailed operating instructions are included with each tension gauge.

Professional Models - Higher accuracy and easier to use than standard models. The cable can be adjusted while the gauge remains on the cable. "Just watch the pointer move." All readings are based on 302/304 1x19 S.S breaking strengths.

The gauges measure tension over a range of approximately 5% to 25% of the breaking strength of the cable and provide an accuracy of + or - 5%.

MADE IN USA: Yes

PT-1, PT-2 and PT-3 Tension Gauges

PT-1M, PT-2M and PT-3M Tension Gauges

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Customers say

Customers like the ease of use, quality, tension gauge and accuracy of the electric circuit testing device. They mention that it's a simple but good tool, it does it very well and that it is an excellent tool for small sailboats.

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Customers find the electric circuit testing device easy to use. They say it's simple but good tool and a must have for sailors.

" Very easy to use and it is very accurate. I never realized how important proper standing rigging tension was until I did my research." Read more

"Reliable, accurate and easy to use . Excellent value for money." Read more

"...It is reasonably accurate and easy to handle ." Read more

" Easy to use and reliable tension gauge. May loose accuracy with time, but as long as you keep records of your settings, your fine." Read more

Customers like the quality of the electric circuit testing device. They mention it's a great product, does its job well, and is an excellent tool.

"Loos PT-1M Great product , fast delivery, good price." Read more

"Box looked like hell, but the product was good ." Read more

"This did not work !!!" Read more

" Worked like a charm " Read more

Customers like the tension gauge. They say it's an excellent gauge for rigging, reliable, and a great cable tension meter. They also say it is an excellent tool for small sailboats and that it matched spot on with another tension gauge

" Excellent tension tool for small sailboats to allow consistant rigging tension checking and adjustment...." Read more

" Excellent Gauge for Rig tensioning . Easy set your rigging in balanced tensioning.It is reasonably accurate and easy to handle." Read more

"Easy to use and reliable tension gauge . May loose accuracy with time, but as long as you keep records of your settings, your fine." Read more

Customers are satisfied with the accuracy of the electric circuit testing device. They mention that it is very accurate and consistent.

"Very easy to use and it is very accurate . I never realized how important proper standing rigging tension was until I did my research." Read more

"...the cable tension in the side and forestay is reasonable and consistent and c)..." Read more

"Reliable, accurate and easy to use. Excellent value for money." Read more

"...Easy set your rigging in balanced tensioning.It is reasonably accurate and easy to handle." Read more

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Rig tuning: a practical guide for sailors

• August 28, 2023

Correct rig tension will maximise the efficiency of your boat’s sails as well as reducing stresses on the mast. David Pugh demonstrates simple rig tuning

Safety is the number one benefit of tuning your rigging

As a cruising sailor, it’s tempting to simply set up your sail boat rig at the beginning of the season, then leave well alone.

Perhaps you leave the mast up, perhaps you mark the position of the turnbuckles before the mast comes down, perhaps you set the rig up from scratch or perhaps you pay an expert.

All these can work, but none are immune from one basic problem: boats move.

How much depends on the boat’s construction, particularly whether the mast is keel- or deck- stepped, but most will do so within a few days or weeks after the initial rig tension is applied.

The boat may continue to do so over time and rigging may stretch, especially when new, so it’s worth knowing how to correct it yourself.

My own boat, Contessa 26 Red Dragon , is a devil for this.

During the winter she sits on a trailer with the mast down, the keel supported along its length and in turn supporting the superstructure, aided by six pads and a bow post bearing on the boat hull .

At launch, these forces all change: the buoyancy of the hull now supports the keel, and the mast foot pushes down on the laminated deck beam under the step.

The rigging, meanwhile, increases the pressure on the step while trying to pull the chainplates through the deck.

I’ve never measured her beam before and after applying rig tension, but I suspect she becomes significantly wider.

She certainly doesn’t maintain her initial rig tension.

Benefits of rig tuning to get the correct tension

The first and most fundamental benefit of correct rig tension is safety.

An improperly supported mast is put under all sorts of stresses that it is not designed to endure, and dismasting can be the result.

Try sighting up the mast when the boat is close-hauled in a good breeze.

If the lee shrouds are slack and the middle or top of the mast is sagging to leeward, your mast is not properly supported and you should check your rig tension.

The second benefit is efficiency.

Continues below…

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The combination of rig, spars and sails is anything but simple, and if your s ailmaker has done their job properly and measured your boat rather than making your sails from documented figures, the luff curve of the main and the hollow of the jib or jibs will have been cut to suit the bend in the mast and the forestay tension at the time of measurement.

That means you’ll need to be able to replicate that situation when you set up the rig in order to gain maximum efficiency from your sails.

And, just to make things harder, as time goes by and your sails stretch, these optimum settings will change.

Conditions also affect the best settings for your rig.

Light airs demand softer settings than sailing in a gale, and you’ll often see racers tweaking their rig tensions to suit the conditions.

For cruisers seeking to set up and forget about their rig, the best option is to err towards setting up the boat for stronger winds, especially with shroud tension.

Forestay tension can be more dynamic, provided your boat has an adjustable backstay.

Simple rig set up

Some boats have designer’s recommendations for mast rake, bend and rig tension – if yours is one of them, follow the instructions.

The rest of us are obliged to make it up from scratch – so where do you start?

While some professional riggers might be able to assess the tension in a wire with a carefully calibrated shove, the rest of us need a bit of help.

You can either buy a rig tension gauge or measure the extension of the wire.

This latter method works on the basis that, for 1×19 rigging wire, an elongation of 1mm over 2m equates to 5% of the break load of the wire.

Seldén have a good explanation on their website – search ‘Seldén rig set-up’.

The tension you are aiming for will vary from boat to boat and between types of rigging wire, but a gauge will make it much easier to keep the tension even on opposite shrouds.

For the initial set-up the boat should ideally be floating level – it makes it much easier to see whether, despite the measurements, everything looks right.

I find it’s best to be on a finger berth, which allows you to get off the boat to assess whether the mast is upright.

Make sure that the mast is upright

If you’re starting from scratch, begin by centring the mast in the boat.

Leave the lowers fairly slack and use the main halyard to measure to the chainplates on each side.

You can then adjust the bottlescrews to make sure the cap shrouds are of equal length.

Use the main halyard to measure to the cap shroud chainplates on both sides

If your boat is symmetrical, the mast will be upright.

If your mast is keel-stepped, insert the chocks in the partners now before you apply rig tension.

Finally, tighten the cap shroud bottlescrews hand-tight, making sure you put the same number of turns on each.

Set up the mast rake

Next, set the mast rake. If you have a setting from the designer, use it.

If not, you’re most likely looking for a rake of between 1° and 2°, or 1:60 to 1:30.

So for a 9m mast, you would expect the offset between masthead and mast foot to be between 15cm and 30cm.

Measure it by hanging a weight from the main halyard and measuring the distance between the weight and the mast foot.

The forestay bottlescrew sets mast rake

If it’s windy, hanging the weight in a bucket of water will help damp the swing of the halyard.

Pull on a little backstay before using the forestay bottlescrew to move the masthead fore or aft and adjust the rake.

The backstay helps the masthead to move – with no tension, the forestay will simply become slack as you back off the bottlescrew.

Steeper rakes tend to go with fractional rigs, but this is by no means a rule – you may need to experiment to find what works for your boat.

Increasing the rake will increase weather helm , and vice versa.

Tension the cap shrouds

It’s now time to begin tensioning the rigging properly.

Take the slack out of the lowers at this stage, but don’t tighten them fully yet.

Then, using your tension gauge and making sure you keep the number of turns on each side equal, tension the cap shrouds to their working tension.

Most tension gauges are calibrated to show a percentage of the breaking strength of the wire: with my boat, I find that around 15% is sufficient to keep the rig taut in the conditions in which we sail.

A gauge makes rig set-up easier

If you have a keel-stepped fractional rig with swept spreaders you should carry out this stage with the backstay fully tensioned, as it will initiate a bend in the mast which is fixed by tightening the caps.

If you do this, be careful that the mast does not go out of column side to side – if it does, ease the backstay slightly.

Once the caps are tensioned, sight up the mainsail luff groove to check whether the mast has any bend, fore and aft or side to side.

If you have swept spreaders you can expect it to have some fore and aft bend, but otherwise it should still be in column.

If it isn’t, don’t worry too much unless the bend is large, as you can remove small errors with the lower shrouds.

Sight up the luff groove to check that the mast is in column from side to side

Set the mast pre-bend

The lower (and intermediate, if you have them) shrouds are your opportunity to set fore and aft mast bend, as well as preventing the middle of the mast sagging off to leeward.

It’s advisable to have at least some pre-bend in your mast to avoid it inverting downwind.

For straight spreader rigs, the lowers do all the work in setting bend. Start by tensioning the babystay or forward lowers.

The optimum amount depends on how your mainsail is cut – for a stiff masthead rig like mine I only look for about 10cm of bend with the backstay off, measured by holding the main halyard tight to the foot of the mast and eyeballing the deflection.

Use a second spanner to hold the shroud still when tensioning the bottlescrew

This usually equates to around 7% of the wire break load on the gauge.

For more flexible masts and fractional rigs, you will probably need more bend.

Again, use the tension gauge to keep the tension even from side to side.

Finally, tighten the aft lowers, enough to remove any slack but not to significantly alter the mast bend.

Swept spreader rigs will tend to have lower and intermediate shrouds set abaft the mast, so the simplest thing to do is to tighten them enough to maintain the bend set when you tensioned the cap shrouds.

The tighter they are, the less the mast wants to bend, which will help transfer backstay tension to the forestay but will make it harder to flatten the main with mast bend.

The optimum setting will depend on your sails and the conditions.

Check the mast is straight

With the fore and aft bend set, check the mast is still in column side to side.

Hopefully it will be, but if it isn’t, use the lowers and intermediates to true it up.

On a single spreader rig the aft lowers are usually the best tool for this, but if the bend is significant you might need to relax the opposite forward lower, if there is one, to allow the mast to move.

If you do, make sure you retain the fore and aft bend, and keep checking the tensions in all the lowers to keep them as even as possible.

With the bend set and the mast straight, go back and check the tension in the cap shrouds.

It may have reduced with the mast bend, in which case bring it back up to your desired tension.

Tension the backstay

With the rig basically set up, tension the backstay bottlescrews to your minimum working tension.

I set ours to about 7% of the wire load, with application of the tensioner taking it up to around 17%.

Even on a stiff masthead rig like ours, this compresses the mast enough to introduce significantly more bend, and more importantly for us dramatically increases forestay tension.

With a backstay bridle like this, check the tension above the joining plate

If you don’t use a backstay adjuster, set the backstay to a similar tension to that of the cap shrouds, then go forward and check the forestay.

The tension should be similar, and will help with your upwind performance.

The above will give you a good initial set-up, but there’s no substitute for seeing how it behaves under sail.

Head out in a moderate breeze, put the boat on the wind and hand over the helm to someone else.

Then check your leeward cap shrouds.

They should still be taut in these conditions – if they aren’t, you need more rig tension.

In a moderate breeze, the leeward shrouds should stay taut

Next, sight up the mast to check it is still in column. If the middle sags to leeward, tighten the lowers.

If the tip sags off it could be the middle popping to windward or the tip sagging.

Both over-tight lowers and loose cap shrouds will have this effect, and it can be dangerous as it reduces the angle at which the cap shroud meets the masthead, making its support less effective.

If you have this problem, check your tension settings before making a decision which to alter.

Rig tuning: conclusion

A well-tuned rig makes a boat sail better, while ensuring your mast is correctly supported is a safety essential.

As mentioned at the beginning of this article, boats move, so although you should be able to leave your mast rake and side-to-side centring alone, keep an eye on the shroud tensions.

They may well reduce, especially in the first weeks after setting up the rig, so don’t assume that all is well.

You keep an eye on your engine levels – five minutes with a tension gauge or a wander around the deck under sail will do the same for your rig

Enjoyed reading Rig tuning: a practical guide for sailors?

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How can I set stay tension without a meter ?

• Thread starter tasdevil
• Start date Jul 20, 2009
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

I've just about finished the refit of my Oday 22 , put the mast up this morning. Can anyone suggest a relatively simple method of setting correct stay tension without the use of an expensive meter ?  

Use a cheap gauge, a Loos gauge for small boat rigging goes for about $65. Tim  

Stu Jackson

Without a gauge and without measuring tools: 1. Set it up at the dock so it's straight 2. Go sailing, if leeward shrouds are loose, tighten them halfway, tack, tighten the other side to even them out. 3. Check back at dock or when in a position to check step one again. Repeat 1 & 2 & 3 until you're finished. I think this is what Gail suggested her skipper does. It works.  

Stu Jackson said: Without a gauge and without measuring tools: 1. Set it up at the dock so it's straight 2. Go sailing, if leeward shrouds are loose, tighten them halfway, tack, tighten the other side to even them out. 3. Check back at dock or when in a position to check step one again. Repeat 1 & 2 & 3 until you're finished. I think this is what Gail suggested her skipper does. It works. Click to expand

Thanks for the advice; I'm doing the " trial by sailing " method just to get started, then I'll dock her and use the steel tape - just 3mm eh ? OK.. many thanx........Robin.  

A sailmaker cuts the shape of the leading edge of a sail 'expecting' that the shroud is at ~15% tension. If youre not close to ~15% (forestay) tension the 'shape' that the foresail take will be 'off' .... less than 15% the position/location of maximum draft will be too far aft = excess heeling and the boat will begin to 'skid off to leeward'; greater than 15% and the draft will be too far forward = the sail will 'luff' too easily (unstable) and have reduced speed/power.  

Ross said: Just to add one step here : Learn what the shrouds "feel" like when they are properly tight. Click to expand

RichH said: OK, explain to a novice what a properly tuned shroud 'feels like'. How do you explain the relationship of the way a sail 'sets & shapes' according to how a shroud 'feels'. Inquiring minds would like to know. <grin> Click to expand

Ross said: In the same manner that you teach them what a sharp knife edge feels like. Unless your student is brain dead it should be able to decern the difference between a taut shroud and a slack one. Click to expand

DIY Shroud Tension Measurement Basic physics. * Find distance between clevis pin on lower shroud at deck level. (Easily done by pulling tape measure end up mast with main halyard). * Put a tape marker on shroud a suitable distance above this (in my case 78.6"). * Place a rod, stick, batten or piece of 1" sq wood against the mast and out horizontally to the tape marker. * Mark the stick with a pencil where it touches the shroud. * Make a second mark 1" inboard towards the mast. * Get a spring balance or fishing scale and pull the shroud tape marker inboard until it comes to the inner mark. * Do the arithmetic or use my spreadsheet attached herewith. I have been doing this for years and this method does not suffer the accuracy loss of the Loos gauge where it tries to put a double bend into the wire and if the rigging is stiff or made of solid rod then an error is introduced. Do the forestay likewise if there is no luff spar. Have fun At the end of the day you probably won't get better than 10% accuracy anyway. Shucks this system will only allow pictures or text uploads and my Excel file is neither. Will have to ask Phil how to do this and re-post later. Update:- Phil has put the spreadsheet on http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=34 Have fun.  

RichH said: OK I see your point of view. You let them cut a finger on a sharp knife and hope that they remember what it feels like .... but still offer NO reason of 'why' the knife should be sharp or dull, only thats 'the way you do it, so it has to be right'. Is there a limit to 'taut' so that you dont have to explain what happens when a mast butt goes through a bilge/floor into the ocean because the 'taut' feeling is actually too tight, or when 'taut' pulls a chainplate loose from its knee? Im sure one of the brain dead would realize taut that damages the boat or too loose that allow the rig to go overboard ... but Im not sure from your description what your implication of 'just right' would be. Click to expand

Tuning the rig Why not try one of these musical instrument tuners to tune a rig based on the tone of the wire when plucked? I have never done this but I think it might work. A guitar, or mandolin string for example is tightened until it produces the right frequency of vibration. If you tune your rig then baseline the frequency it gives off you should be able to tune it to this frequency and get it almost exactly the same every time. Not sure if the tuners will work at a low frequency but it is worth a shot. I have a tuner and will try it. Not for a couple weeks though.  

Ross said: I presume then that whenever you walk around your deck and check your standing rigging you use a quantitative measuring devise and don't rely on a simple pull on each part as you make your rounds. OTOH I bet you could tell by feel if someone loosened a turnbuckle just one full turn on your upper shroud. When you sharpen your knife how do you check the edge? I check by feel and I don't lacerate my fingers. When I have it quite sharp then I move onto the finer stones and check the edge against the hair on my arm. I could use a magnifier and then a microscope and have done so for some purposes. Click to expand

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