dyneema sailboat lifelines

Updating a classic fiberglass cruising yacht.

Rope lifelines shown on a sailboat

How to install Dyneema lifelines

I replaced the aged stainless steel cable lifelines on my boat with Dyneema synthetic lines.  The total cost was around $600 and I learned how to eye splice a single braid rope.  It took a total of about 8 hours to install the lines.  The most challenging part was to make the lines the right length given the changes in length introduced by the splicing process. 


One of the items noted on my boat-purchase survey was the advanced age of the stainless steel cable lifelines.  Vinyl-coated cable lifelines are no longer cool with the American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC), but my Ericson was delivered with them.  The problem is that the vinyl covers the stainless steel metal and allows it to rust, like for decades, thus weakening the lifelines. 

—->  Brief interjection:  I heard an interesting discussion of child car seats on the Freakonomics radio show / podcast recently, the upshot being that child car seats, frequently installed incorrectly, from a statistical basis do about as well protecting children as adult-sized seat belts.  We like to think child car seats help us out, but they don’t, really.   Similar – lifelines.  Do they really keep us safer?  This topic is somewhat open to debate, and if anyone internet-questions lifelines, he/she is bound to have loads people chime in about that one time under duress when lifelines saved their bacon.  But what about all the times that someone trips over a lifeline at the doc?  Or is sent overboard because the line is only 24” off the deck, a perfect fulcrum point to destabilize an adult homo sapien?  I googled hard (as in 4-5 times) to find an official insurance study justifying the use of lifelines.  I could not find one.  Joshua Slocum did not have them. Well, I have a 6 year old, I should keep them…←–

Back to replacing lifelines.  I replaced my standing rigging with synthetic lines from Colligo.  I wanted to do the same with my lifelines (swap out cable for rope) and I thought I could figure it out all myself. 

Design Considerations : 

My boat has a total of 8 lifelines (fore and aft, starboard and port, upper and lower) and 2 gates (Port and Starboard).  I bet yours has something similar.   Each lifeline consists of a static end point, a second ‘dynamic’ end point that can be tensioned, and a line in between.  On my boat, the tension end-point was the outermost (attached to the bow and stern pulpits) and had a closed-body turnbuckle to keep the line taut.  Here is a view of the starboard bow pulpit: 

dyneema sailboat lifelines

Here is a view of the gate: 

dyneema sailboat lifelines

I needed to choose components with which I could replicate the existing lifeline structure.  I looked to the University of YouTube to see if there were any clever tips to be learned, and found these guys: 

I like their effort and that the guy rebuilt a Yanmar motor in the cockpit of his catamaran, so he has my respect.  They use some fittings from Colligo and use synthetic line lashings to tension their lifelines.  

Dyneema is a brand-name for ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fiber monofilaments.  For sailing, it is used it to make ropes/lines.  It’s also good for making bulletproof armor: 

It’s strong, light, smooth, and it doesn’t stretch.  It comes in 12 strand single braid lines (ropes) that are very easy to splice.  Because the rope is so slippery, the splicing has to be done properly. 

Anyone taking on this project needs to learn how to do a locking brummel splice.  This is an eye splice that does not move.  There are a multitude of how-to-eye-splice videos on YouTube, but I mostly relied on this one: 

To tension my lifelines, I could have purchased the Colligo lashing fittings.  Here’s a page with some information from Colligo: 


Instead of lashing I wanted instead to use turnbuckles in the same way I had used turnbuckles for my standing rigging.  

Based on my design plan, my shopping list was as follows: 

  • 130 feet @  ¼” Amsteel Blue (A Samson rope product , made with dyneema fibers) from Defender at $1.07 per foot from Defender .  8@ jaw-jaw ¼” 316 stainless CS Johnson turnbuckles from West Marine @ $35 per. @$280
  • 4@  316 stainless 3/16” thimbles from Defender $1.59 each
  • 2@ CS Johnson Gate hooks with splice eye from Defender   $55 each
  • 1@ Samson splicing kit from Defender $43.

Total cost: Approximately $580.

Building the Lifelines

I watched the how-to-eye-splice video several times.  The trick, if there is one. is to figure out the ‘mobius loop lock’ that ensures your splice can’t slide out and that the fibers lay properly oriented.  

For each line, the fixed connection end requires no measuring.  I attached my lower lines to my gate posts using a ‘luggage tag’ loop with the line running through the eye splice I had created. The fixed side of the upper lines would be integral to the gate, so those I terminated with my four stainless thimbles: 

dyneema sailboat lifelines

The other end of the line, that attaches to the turnbuckle or lashing is a bit trickier.  One wants the line to be just long enough so that the tensioner can be attached, but still have enough operable room to add tension.  

So just set your fixed point line and see how much rope you need, right?  Not that simple.  The challenge is that as you bury the line back into itself as part of your eye-splice, the exterior sleeve of the splice has to expand the weave of the rope, and so the line shortens overall.  To compensate for this factor, one needs to plan for his non-spliced loop to be longer than the desired end length.  

How much longer? I was targeting a 20” splice bury, and I found that the splice and the bury would shorten the line by about 2.5”-3”.  

dyneema sailboat lifelines

This process is further complicated when you taper the line.  One wants to taper the buried line to help the fibers lay flat and for aesthetics.  It’s really easy to taper the line – you just pull out a few of the 12 strand bundles and snip them at staggered distances from the end of the line.  

dyneema sailboat lifelines

But, (surprise!) now the tapered sheath portion of the splice is not as stretched out as it was with the full line and your line elongates as your splice moves out.

I had to take a number of splice mulligans (to mix terminology from two leisure sports.)  Eventually I got all of my lines to a satisfactory length and tension. 

dyneema sailboat lifelines

The gates remained.   These were a bit different in that the short length of the line between the end points would not permit me to do a 20” bury at each end as the buried ends would overlap.  I did a modified eye splice with more interweaving of the buried end back and forth into the line.  

dyneema sailboat lifelines

One might point out that pinning an eye-splice into a jaw-jaw turnbuckle leaves a tight bend radius on the line and could be a weak point for the line.  The Colligo guys say that a bend radius should be 5:1.  I think this means the radius of the thimble or terminator should be 5 times the diameter of the line.  Colligo sells lashing-style fittings that meet this 5:1 standard. 

Fair enough.  One can buy turnbuckle tensioning bolts that are designed to be spliced into , and they do not have anything like the same bend radius.  Truth be told I found these turnbuckles after I purchased and installed my jaw-jaw connectors.  If I were to do it over, I would buy these splice-end ones.

Another point is that the lines may suffer chafe.  The general argument for Dyneema is that it shows chafe readily by becoming fuzzy and thus with a minimum amount of inspection, chafe should be evident. 

Consider a back-of-the envelope scenario calculation.   

Suppose a sailor weighing 225 lbs slips on his foredeck and falls to the lifelines.  

The acceleration of his fall means his impact weight is much higher.  How much higher?  [Scientific Wild Arse Guess] – 10 times, so 2,250lbs hitting the lifeline structure.  

What happens?  

The load is transferred to the whole system, including the lines, connections, stanchion posts, stanchion feet, and pulpits.  There is some elasticity as the stanchion posts deflect (bend).  

What fails first?  Is it the spliced dyneema line rated at 8600 lbs?  Is it the turnbuckle rated at 4200 lbs?  Is it the single machine screw that holds the stanchion post into the stanchion base?  The bolts holding the stanchion base into the hull?  The welded stainless loops attached to the bow and stern pulpit? 

I think it is difficult to say in practice, though I am confident that the dyneema are an improvement over the existing rusting coated lines they have replaced.  

Finally, I would add that Defender has some CS Johnson Synthetic Lifeline-specific hardware kits you may want to check out to see if they suit your specific needs, as you design your system.  

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DIY Dyneema Lifelines


Last Updated on February 13, 2021 by Amy

While at The Boat Works , David and I had a long list of projects to tackle.  One of my big ones was replacing our lifelines with fancy new Dyneema lifelines.

Table of Contents - Click to Jump

What is a lifeline?

Lifelines are wires or lines that run around the edges of your deck.  These are designed to prevent you from falling overboard off your boat.  The metal posts that the lifelines are threaded through are called stanchions .

What is Dyneema?

Dyneema is the brand name for  UHMWPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight PolyEthylene fiber) made by DSM .  Dyneema is incredibly valuable to have on your boat.  The line can be used for a variety of purposes and is very high quality.  We carry spare Dyneema in several sizes.  One project I do frequently with Dyneema is making my own soft shackles.

Stainless Steel Wire v Plastic Coated SS v Dyneema Lifelines

Our Fountaine Pajot Helia 44 came with plastic coasted SS wires from the factory.  There are several problems with this:

  •  Over time the plastic coating develops a sticky residue on it.  Not detrimental to our safety, but gross nonetheless.
  • The plastic coating breaks.
  • UV damage shortens the life of your lifeline due to damage to the plastic.
  • The plastic coating hides damage to the stainless steel wires.

Benefits to Dyneema lifelines:

  •  Stronger than stainless steel (15x stronger).
  • Lighter than stainless steel (7x lighter).
  • Easier to install.
  • Chafe resistant compared to other fibers.
  • Easier to cut in an emergency MOB situation.

We met a new Outremer last year that came from the factory with Dyneema lifelines.

Not sold on Dyneema?  The Boat Galley has a post on new stainless steel wire lifeline installation.

Supplies to Replace Your Lifelines

This is what I used on our 44′ catamaran to make our Dyneema lifelines.  You may need different sizes or quantities depending on your boat.

  • Thick 12 strand single braid Dyneema for your main lifelines (I used 6 mm thick and approximately 65 meters long)*
  • Thin Dyneema for your lashings (I used 3  mm thick and 9 meters long)
  • M8 Stainless Steel 316 Eye Bolts, Marine Grade, 4 each
  • M8 Stainless Steel 316 Eye Nuts, Marine Grade, 4 each
  • swivel snap shackle 70 mm, 4 each
  • electricians tape
  • measuring tape (I use a seamstress measuring tape because of how flexible it is)

Dyneema is available from your local chandlery.  We recommend going with the silver, natural colored Dyneema because we have used some dyed Dyneema in the past, but find that the color leeches off.

Cost for Making Your Own Dyneema Lifelines

The first 5 items on the above list totaled to $486.35 USD .

Splicing Your Lifelines

I created my Dyneema lifelines using a Brummel splice.  When you have two loose ends, the splice is fairly easy.  However, when one end is occupied (as it will be when you make your lifelines) you need a modified or Mobius Brummel to get the job done.  Once you figure the splice out, it’s fairly easy.

Directions for the Mobius Brummel.

There’s a Modified Brummel Splice video on YouTube , but I found it not as easy to follow as the above link is.  What tripped me up is that the person in the video switches sides partway through.  When you put the loop through the hole, it needs to follow through the hole in the same direction that the tail went in the previous move.  This is the “modified” part that allows you to make the Brummel with a secured end.  Pushing the loop through should untwist the loop instead of putting a double twist in the line.

Do one end of the lifeline, and then thread the tail end through the stanchions.  Connect the 1st, already sliced end properly to the railing, and then work out your measurements for the 2nd end.  Disconnect the first end to give yourself some additional room to bury the tail of your 2nd splice.

Measuring the big Dyneema to splice the exact right length is really hard.  Don’t worry, it’s better to be too short than too long.  The distance will be made up with the lashings.

*Depending on the size of your shorter sections, you may need to drop down to a smaller size.  The gates on the stern of our boat are so small that the long tail bury would overlap.  Since the long tail is 72x the diameter, you have to either drop the diameter down or drop the tail (Evan Starzinger recommends at least 63x the diameter).

While Dyneema has negligible stretch, it will have some twist in the line since it has been coiled.  Monitor your new Dyneema lifelines.  As they adjust over the next few days they will work out the twist, but your eye bolts and nuts will need to be screwed back in and your lashings re-tensioned.

DO NOT use a hot knife.  You don’t want the ends of the Dyneema melted, as it makes sharp edges in the long tail bury.  I wrapped the Dyneema in the tape and cut through the tape using the box cutter.

Our chandlery only had eye bolts that were too long, so David cut them down using our Dremel .

Inspect the eyes of your stanchions.  Our stanchion eyes are a smooth tube with rounded, gentle edges.  Older or damaged stanchions might cause chafe problems on the Dyneema, so replace your stanchions or use a plastic protective covering at the stanchions.  See the second post link from Rigging Doctor below.

Finished Dyneema Lifelines

More reading.

Evan Starzinger has a very technical article out about the benefits of Dyneema lifelines.

The Rigging Doctor has a post and instructions, and a 2-year update .

Dyneema’s abrasion resistance explained .



I am looking at taking on this project for our FP 44′ Orana. Do you recall the size Fid you used? The link sends me to a set and I already have a few of my own. In practicing on a few different lines I can see finding the right size fid for the right line is extremely important! Also, any update on what you felt you did right and what you would have done differently?

Unfortunately I don’t, mostly because our fids aren’t well labeled. I think our lines are holding up pretty well. The trickiest part is figuring out the length for the second splice! Just remember you can always adjust the lashings.

I used New England Ropes WR2. There was excess dyneema cover after splicing or stripping the ends. I cut 2.5” lengths of the cover and slid them over lifeline before final splice. You can “glue” them in place using cyanoacrylate (crazy glue.) It does not actually glue the dyneema, but flows between the fibers and hardens, holding them in place. Good for binding ends, too.

Enjoying your blog!

This looks great. I also have a Helia 44 that needs lifelines replaced. I’m looking at either Suncor stainless and Dyneema.

What Dyneema did you use and where did you source it?

We just got it from West Marine! Super easy.

Great looking splices Amy!

How much room did you leave initially on the aft end of the lifelines? I’m assuming there is a fair amount of untwisting. How much length did the lines finally untwist?

Much appreciated! We’ll probably switch out our lifelines this year. Allen & Linda Dobbs

The amount the line untwists is hard to measure because the eye bolts untwist with it. To correct it, we simply undid the lashings and retightened the eye bolts. It helps a lot to twist the line as you walk down its entire length.

Plastic rings between the stanchion eyes and the line for chafe?

Hey Derek! Good question. The stanchion eyes are built with a smooth tube bisecting them where the lifeline goes through. The edges of the tubes are rounded and very smooth. I don’t think any plastic ring we put in there would do a better job than what is built into the stanchion. I doubt chafing is going to be an issue. If it is, we will catch it with our routine inspections.

Also, an updated post from Rigging Doctor about chafe. He states that he has had no chafe at the stanchions after 2 years: https://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2017/3/30/dyneema-lifelines

I’m doing dyneema life lines and rigging on my cat being built. Moving off my current mono, I currently liveaboard but not a cruiser. As you said dyneema is amazing, great to have around, and useful skills to pickup around its integration. I’m still a bit skeptical on the chafe, I’d think the softer plastic is preferable even if it is less smooth. I dunno tho, either way good move. Been following you two for two years. Probably be starting my cruising just as you’re wrapping up, boat won’t be done till next spring and then I’ll do it’s delivery back to west coast.

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Colligo Marine, LLC

(480) 703-3675

dyneema lifelines sailboat

Colligo Marine can customize synthetic lifelines for boats of any size! 

Colligo Marine Synthetic Lifelines

About our synthetic lifelines.

Colligo Marine ®  Dux Lifelines are the strongest and toughest synthetic lifelines available. If the lashings are changed every 2-3 years your lifelines will last at least 5-8 years in the tropics.  Colligo Marine can customize synthetic lifelines for boats of any size! Dyneema lifelines are approved for offshore use by the United States Sailing and the International Sailing Federation. Line is lighter and  easier on the hands (& sails) than wire! If your synthetic lifelines get damaged the weak points are visible and the line gets fuzzy. These lifelines are completely inspectable for your safety!

We use Dynice Dux SK-75  , which has similar material stretch to that of stainless steel. 5mm Dux has a breaking strength of 11,000 pounds. It is pre-stretched at elevated temperatures  to virtually eliminate constructional stretch. Other advantages include weight savings, DIY flexibility, and no corrosion!

See below for a great video on our Schock 35 Project boat!

Photo Gallery

Schock 35 project.

We have re-rigged a Schock 35! The Schock is a one design race boat and is a great boat to re-rig with synthetics as it is very tender.  Most sail the Schock 35 with 8 or more sailors on the rail!  Reefing a sail is recommended at 12 knots!  That being said, getting weight off the mast could help this boats performance greatly.   

The boat has an aluminum mast with rod rigging, tuff luff headsail foil, undersized synthetic running backs, a boom vang, and lifelines, which are rigged incorrectly and even dangerously.  A heavy and leaking hydraulic backstay adjuster and several other areas on the boat that are begging for improvements.  We outfitted this boat with Colligo hardware from stem to stern, including our new Extra Light Headsail Furling (ELHF) System, and use this opportunity to show the proper method of using low stretch and high strength synthetics to make things simpler and safer.  In addition, we will document the changes in weight.  

Schock 35 Project BEFORE and AFTER

The previous Dyneema lifelines were very poorly rigged. The entire lifeline system was replaced with 5mm Colligo Dux Lifelines with gates and 3mm lashing Dynice Dux. At the bow and stern a brummell splice with a 3 inch eye was luggage tagged to the bow and stern pulpits. At each end the line was then covered with PVC shrink tube. To create a gate, Infinite Dyneema Loops , a CSS70 Terminator® Fitting , and a CSS41 Standard Static Lashing Block was used. To keep the gates tensioned, a whoopee sling mechanism was implemented. This mechanism can be easily adjusted by unlatching the pelican hook and taking up any slack 

After: Lifeline Gates, WHat is a Whhopie Sling?

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The Lifeline Quandary

  • By Roger Hughes
  • January 25, 2022

boat lines

The vinyl-coated wire lifelines on my 1977 Downeaster 45 schooner, Britannia , were well past their prime. Sections of the vinyl coating had faded into a dull brown—with parts chafed and cracked, exposing the wire—and many of the chrome fittings had lost their luster. If I accidentally ran my hand along an exposed section, I’d pierce my fingers. They simply had to be replaced, not only for safety and to restore a smooth surface, but also for the appearance. 

Lifelines are intended to stop someone from falling overboard, so that’s the primary consideration in any replacement. But this does raise another important question: How does a person who falls overboard get back on board: through or over the lifelines? I’d once experienced a man-overboard situation where this became an issue, so it was foremost in my thinking.

Most lifelines have pelican hooks at one end that can be released to lower the lines. Britannia ’s were the old style, with a locking ring over the release lever. When the wires were tight, it was very difficult to pry the ring back over the latch by hand, and pliers were necessary to squeeze the latch. 

A new type of pelican hook, from CS Johnson Inc., has a pin, like a snap shackle, that releases the hook even with the lines under maximum tension. Lines can also be released by unwinding the tensioning turnbuckle toggle at the other end, but if the line is tight, it too can be difficult to do so by hand. I found a neat little adjustment tool at CS Johnson’s website that fits in the center small hole of a tubular turnbuckle and is much better than pliers or a bit of old wire, which I had been using for years. 

If for any reason lines cannot be released, a final option would be to cut the wire, which requires long-­handled wire cutters for 3/16-inch wire—but what if the lifelines are rope? That would be easy to cut, but would rope be strong enough? Questions, questions.

Wire vs. Rope?

Since I was going to replace the wires anyway, I decided to look at the pros and cons of wire and rope. Maybe there’s a better alternative to old-fashioned wire? Regarding strength, I couldn’t find any manufacturer who gave the strength of their material when used specifically as lifelines. All I could find for both wire and rope was “tensile strength” or “working load.” No account was given for stanchions either, which are integral to any boat’s lifeline system. How stanchions hold up depends on their deck fastenings, length and tube thickness. Whatever I decided to use to replace my worn lifelines, it had to be no thicker than 3/8-inch (10 mm) diameter to pass through the 7/16-inch (11 mm) holes through the stanchions. I started listing the pros and cons:

Uncoated wire can become almost untouchably hot in the Florida summers, where Brittania lives, and I don’t like gripping thin wire with bare hands anyway, so I didn’t want to consider that. Vinyl-coated wire is commonly fitted by manufacturers and sold through aftermarket suppliers. It looks smart when it’s new, but over time, water can enter at the ends and wherever chafe has exposed the wire. Eventually this causes corrosion that might not be visible under the covering. However, wire is strong, and 3/16-inch 7-by-7 strand has a working load of 3,700 pounds. (As an aside, boats with wire lifelines should preferably also have a good quality wire cutter on board to chop the wire in an emergency.)

All that said, Dyneema rope’s working load is stronger, size for size, than stainless wire. The possibility of substituting rope for lifelines therefore becomes a viable possibility. I found Miami Cordage Inc., a rope-­maker, hidden in the industrial depths of greater Miami. Most recreational boaters will not have heard of this wonderful Aladdin’s cave of rope because nearly all of its product goes to the United States Navy, Coast Guard and other industrial outlets. Yet they make every conceivable type of rope, from old-style three strand to 12-strand Dyneema, which they call Ironlite. Their prices are considerably less than the regular retail outlets most sailors, including me, regularly use. Their 1/4-inch (6 mm) single-braided 12-strand has an amazing tensile strength of 8,000 pounds.

Once that overview was completed, I started digging deeper by going down a list of several categories.

Cost comparison: 7-by-7 3/16-inch vinyl-coated wire: $1.79 per foot (defender.com); Dyneema Ironlite 1/4-inch 12-strand in blue: $0.60 per foot (miamicordage.com). 

End fittings: A significant additional cost in replacing existing lines are the fittings needed on each end, especially if new turnbuckles and pelican hooks are needed. 

Stretch (creep): Once tensioned bar-tight with the turnbuckles, wire does not stretch further. Dyneema stretches only about 1 percent, but once stretched, it does not move much after that. Dyneema can also be set up bar-tight.

Chafe: All lifelines are subject to chafe by anything rubbing against them: sheets, dock lines, fender lines and where they pass through stanchions. Britannia ’s stanchions have a 7/16-inch-diameter flared tube in each cross-through hole that minimizes chafe at those points. 

Cleaning: White vinyl-­coated wire can simply be wiped with a rag and some bleach now and then, but the vinyl still fades over time. Dyneema has a shiny, slightly slippery texture that can be cleaned with soap and water. 

How to Install

The next item to consider was ease (or lack thereof!) of installation. Once again, I broke it down to the potential materials.

With wire, I needed roughly 150 feet (46 m) with 16 threaded ends to replace my old wire, along with at least three new turnbuckles to replace the jammed old ones. The conventional method of attaching threaded ends to wire is to compress, or swage, the fitting to the wire. This can be done using a hand tool offered by most rigging suppliers ($42 from Defender), but it is tedious if you have a lot to do. First, the vinyl coating has to be cut back a couple of inches, exposing the wire (which in itself is not easy, and best done in a sturdy vice with a sharp box-cutter blade). Then, using a wrench to tighten the bolts on the swaging tool, five crimps are recommended on each fitting. I needed 16 ­fittings each with five swages—that’s 80 crimps! Even if each swage took only five minutes, it would still take nearly seven hours. Defender has a long-handled crimping tool that makes short work of swaging multiple fittings, but unfortunately the price is $279. Also, hand-swaging produces only 65 percent of the strength of the wire, but a crimping tool increases this to 85 percent.

An alternative method, which does not require swaging or any special tools, are wire Sta-Lok fittings by CS Johnson. These are easily ­assembled on wire using regular wrenches and actually provide 100 percent of the strength of the wire, and are approved by Lloyd’s of London for lifeline fittings. 

lifeline install

As an option to hand-­swaging, I decided to ask for a quote from the rigging services of a local marine retailer for vinyl-covered wire with end fittings professionally ­attached. I needed four 30-foot lengths and four 6-foot lengths. The price was nearly $800 for the wire alone. It was at this ­juncture that I decided to look ­seriously at Dyneema. 

Rope can be attached to ­existing toggle end fittings with either a splice or even a knot, but CS Johnson has special rope/end attachments, called Splice-Line lifeline fittings, to attach Dyneema to all types of fittings such as turnbuckles and pelican hooks. The rope is spliced directly around the fitting without a thimble, and chafe is reduced to a minimum.

Single-braid Dyneema is hollow, with no center core, and much easier to eye-splice than double braided line. The 12-strand rope is first tapered by removing four pairs of strands, then the end is buried deep inside the standing part and lock-stitched. This is an easy operation with a special 14-inch-long splicing wand from Brion Toss Yacht Riggers (briontoss.com). This fid enables the tapered end to be gripped by the wand and then pulled through the core, instead of pushing it with a conventional fid. With 16 splices to make, I was very thankful to have one. The fid can also be used for other rope work. 

I would need about 200 feet (61 m) of rope, allowing enough for 16 eye splices. I estimated it would still take about three hours to do them all. Miami Cordage makes Ironlite in many colors, including solid blue, which nicely matched Britannia ’s royal-blue color scheme.

Advantage Dyneema

For my project and boat, I determined Dyneema was the way to go. Here are some of the reasons why: As mentioned, 1/4-inch Dyneema is much stronger than 3/16-inch wire. Dyneema is not subject to corrosion or affected by rain or seawater, and is easily inspected for chafe. 

Any section of a rope ­lifeline can be lowered easily between stanchions because the line slides through the stanchions and bends easily. Wire does not slide or bend readily. If necessary, rope lifelines can be cut with a sharp knife; wire needs a ­long-handled wire cutter.

Furthermore, rope lifelines can be replaced in a jiffy, even on a passage. A spare 50-foot length of 1/4-inch Dyneema is much easier to store than the same length of wire.

Dyneema is significantly lighter than wire rope. My complete wire lines weighed 13 pounds. The same length of Dyneema rope weighed only 2.4 pounds. I imagined the weight I’d be saving in my schooner’s 700 feet of 3/8-inch stainless-steel standing rigging—something to think about. 

Finally, there was the price difference—150 feet of 3/16-inch vinyl-coated wire, 16 threaded swage ends, plus a hand-swaging tool and wire cutter runs about $650, while 200 feet of 1/4-inch Dyneema, a splicing wand and three new turnbuckles cost $292. 

These prices were based on using my existing pelican hooks, turnbuckles and other fittings, but I finally ­decided to dive in and do the job properly with new parts. I used CS Johnson’s Splice-Line rope fittings, including new turnbuckles and beautifully crafted quick-release ­pelican hooks, with blue Miami Cordage 1/4-inch Ironlite Dyneema. The whole installation took two weekends to ­replace all the old lifelines, and I eventually got the timing down to 10 minutes for each Dyneema splice. Practice makes perfect. 

There was one final thing I decided to try: Since one of the only things that can weaken Dyneema lines is chafe, I decided to enclose the sections where this might occur with plastic covers that clip completely over the rope and act as chafe guards. These are 6 feet long and only $2 each from West Marine. They still allow the rope to move freely inside and, if any of the guards show signs of chafe, it’s a simple matter to replace one section before it wears the rope itself. They also increase the line thickness to nearly 1/2-inch, which makes holding the lines much more comfortable. 

Britannia ’sfinished lines now look stylish and purposeful, and I am confident that in the event of a real man-overboard emergency, I will have the least possible obstructions to get the person back on board, past the lines. It’s a ­win-win solution.

Florida-based sailor and handyman Roger Hughes is overhauling his 45-foot schooner, Britannia , one system and project at a time.

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Replacing Your Lifelines

Published by rigworks on april 8, 2016.

Question:  What are my options for replacing worn lifelines?

From the Rigger: There are more choices than ever when replacing worn lifelines…

Most lifelines are made of wire, usually uncoated 1×19 grade 316 stainless steel which is well suited for stationary applications such as lifelines. Diameters vary depending on the size of the boat. We generally use 1/8 ” wire for boats under 30’ and 3/16” for boats 30’ and longer, although there are exceptions (J-105s for example prefer 5/32”).  Of course, you can go heavier, but the extra weight can be prohibitive.

Boat owners are moving away from the vinyl covered 3/16” wire that has been the industry standard for years. In fact, the 2016 Safety Equipment Requirements no longer allow coated wire on coastal and ocean racing sailboats (there is a list of the 2016 racing SERs associated with lifelines at the end of this article). But if you don’t plan to race, you may still prefer the feel and appearance of coated wire. Vinyl coated wire’s primary advantage is that it is attractive and comfortable to handle. It can, however, discolor and crack over time, is susceptible to heat, and makes it difficult to inspect the wire underneath.

Synthetic lifelines made of low stretch Dyneema are becoming a popular alternative to wire. Dyneema, made of High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE), is stronger and much lighter than steel. It is easy to install, can be spliced, doesn’t rust, and is easy to handle. Although it is more susceptible to chafing, chafe points can be protected with extra layers and/or tape. When converting from wire to Dyneema, be especially conscious of existing burrs on your stanchions, a common cause of chafing.  We recently installed Dyneema lifelines on a 38’ catamaran, and the customer was very happy with the results.

Regardless of whether you choose wire, coated wire, or Dyneema, we recommend that you always purchase high quality 316 grade fittings, including your turnbuckles, pelican hooks, gate eyes, toggle jaws, deck toggles, etc. We recommend Hayn, Johnson or Arco fittings which operate smoothly and withstand high loads.  We also suggest taping or pinning your fittings whenever possible. Sailors end up in the water as a result of fitting failures. Don’t scrimp here!

Your connections can be hand crimped, machine swaged, or spliced (in the case of Dyneema lines). Hand crimping is the least expensive “do-it-yourself” option but not our first choice. Hand crimping often leaves a bulky joint and can be susceptible to pulling free under load. We often see poorly/under-crimped connections which are definitely not safe. A proper swage is the strongest option.  Unlike hand-crimped connections that may simply break free, a tired swage connection will generally reveal hairline cracks prior to failing, giving you time to replace them. As for splicing those Dyneema lines, we do that here at Rigworks!

Finally, stanchions are often the weak link in your lifeline system. Tall and narrow, they are susceptible to bending, especially when used to catch the boat as you dock or to tie off sheets and halyards. Delamination and cracking at the base are also quite common. Use grade 316 stainless steel 1” diameter stanchions to reduce the likelihood of bending. Always check welds on bales and bases for rust which can be a telltale sign of cracking. Be sure that each stanchion is properly braced and bolted into a reinforced area of your deck and/or into a backing plate.

Of course, this is only the tip of the iceberg. Stanchion height and placement, line spacing (both horizontally and vertically), tension, deflection, toerails, etc. all need to be carefully considered. For professional installation or to discuss your own lifelines, email us at [email protected] or call us at 619-223-3788. We always look forward to hearing from you!

If you race, please read on…

Here is a list of the 2016 Safety Equipment Requirements that apply to lifelines for both coastal and ocean racing. For full list of 2016 SERs, visit the US Sailing website at http://www.ussailing.org/safety/equipment-and-requirements/

  • A boat’s stanchion and pulpit bases shall be within the working deck. Stanchions used with High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE) shall have rounded openings to reduce chafe.
  • Bow pulpits may be open, but the opening between the vertical portion of stanchion pulpit and any part of the boat shall not exceed 14.2″ (360mm).
  • Lifelines may be either uncoated stainless steel wire or HMPE line with spliced terminations or terminals specifically intended for the purpose. A multipart-lashing segment not to exceed 4″ per end termination for the purpose of attaching lifelines to pulpits is allowed. Lifelines shall be taut (see below). When HMPE is used, the load-bearing portion (core) shall meet or exceed minimum diameter requirements.
  • When a deflecting force of 9 lbs (40N) is applied to a lifeline midway between supports of an upper or single lifeline, the lifeline shall not deflect more than 2” (50mm). This measurement shall be taken at the widest span between supports that are aft of the mast.
  • When a deflecting force of 9 lbs (40N) is applied midway between supports of an intermediate lifeline of all spans that are aft of the mast, deflection shall not exceed 5” (120mm) from a straight line between the stanchions.
  • The maximum spacing between lifeline supports (e.g. stanchions and pulpits) shall be 87″ (2.2m).
  • Boats under 30′ (9.14m) shall have at least one lifeline with 18″ (457mm) minimum height above deck, and a maximum vertical gap of 18″ (457mm). Taller heights will require a second lifeline. The minimum diameter shall be 1/8″ (3mm).
  • Boats 30′ and over (9.14m) shall have at least two lifelines with 24″ (762mm) minimum height above deck, and a maximum vertical gap of 15″ (381mm). The minimum diameter will be 5/32″ (4mm) for boats to 43′ (13.1m) and 3/16″ (5mm) for boats over 43′ (13.1m).
  • Toe rails shall be fitted around the foredeck from the base of the mast with a minimum height of 3/4″ (18mm) for boats under 30′ (9.14m) and 1″ (25mm) for boats over 30′. An additional installed lifeline that is 1-2″ (25-51mm) above the deck will satisfy this requirement for boats without toerails.
  • Trimarans are exempted from the lifeline requirement where there is a trampoline outboard of the main hull, except that a lifeline must run from the top of a bow pulpit to the forward crossbeam at the outboard edge of the bow net or foredeck. Catamarans with trampoline nets between the hulls are exempted from the lifeline requirement. All catamarans are exempted from the need for pulpits and lifelines across the bow.

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Ask the Rigger

Do your masthead sheaves need replacing.

Question: My halyard is binding. What’s up? From the Rigger: Most boat owners do not climb their masts regularly, but our riggers spend a lot of time up there. And they often find badly damaged Read more…

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Standing Rigging (or ‘Name That Stay’)

Question: When your riggers talk about standing rigging, they often use terms I don’t recognize. Can you break it down for me? From the Rigger: Let’s play ‘Name that Stay’… Forestay (1 or HS) – Read more…

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Selecting Rope – Length, Diameter, Type

Question: Do you have guidelines for selecting halyards, sheets, etc. for my sailboat? From the Rigger:  First, if your old rope served its purpose but needs replacing, we recommend duplicating it as closely as possible Read more…


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Dyneema Abrasion Test

Influx of off-brand products prompts study..

dyneema sailboat lifelines

As outlined in our previous report on lifelines, high modulus polyethylene (HMPE) fiber rope has revolutionized sailboat rigging during the past decade (see Fiber lifeline Protection Plan , PS September 2015 online), however sailors arent the only ones benefitting from the introduction of this super-strong, low-stretch cordage. Virtually any application that once employed a stranded wire-rope-ranging from tow cables to hoists-is now also served by HMPE. The widespread availability of generic brands of this super-strong, low-stretch cordage made us curious. How do these non-marine brand products compare to known marine brands? And what types are best suited for the various sailboat applications?

HMPE rope

Photos by Drew Frye

Dyneema, a popular brand of multi-strand HMPE rope made by the Dutch multinational DSM, is offered in a range of fiber types and weaves-from SK 99 down to SK 25, with the smaller number indicating lower density, lower strength fibers. DSM has factories in the U.S. as well as China, where a line of generic HMPE ropes-identified only by tensile strength (bearing neither the Dyneema name or SK number)-are made. Other name-brand HMPE products include Spectra by Honeywell, and Acera by Timm/Willhelmsen.

In this report, we will compare the characteristics of conventional Dyneema to that of heat-set Dyneema, which is stronger and stretches less than conventional Dyneema of the same dimension and weave. We will also compare generic HMPE to the Dyneema brand SK cordage.

In any assembled rope, stretch comes in two forms: construction stretch, when knots, splices, and the braids tightens under load; and fiber stretch, when the rope fibers elongate. During heat setting, the fibers are stretched and heated in a carefully regulated process, which effectively accelerates the construction stretch that normally occurs under load. New England Ropes STS (stronger than steel) is a heat-set Dyneema.

What We Tested

We limited our testing to New England Ropes Dyneema products (New England Ropes) and one generic HMPE (Dyneema) product marketed through Amazon as winch cable.

How We Tested

In the lab, testers compared strength by pulling to failure a short length of each rope sample with eye splices at each end. Abrasion resistance was tested using a 75-pound weight swinging like a pendulum and dragging the unprotected rope across a cinder block about 20 times per minute for 10 minutes (see photo).

Our breaking strength data was supplemented with observation from various Dyneema products used aboard our test sailboats.

Dyneema Lifelines

There is also an ongoing lifeline test. In 2012, we fitted a PS test boat with New England Ropes STS Dyneema lifelines for a long-term test. At present, the lifelines are showing no significant wear, nor do they reveal any indication that they’ve lost any significant strength. We plan to load test them in the future.

Shortly after the test began, after a few racing failures, World Sailing (then ISAF) restricted the use of Dyneema lifelines to inshore racing (Categories 4 and 5). Their concern was the lack of field data. Eventually, the risk factors were identified. Most commonly, stanchions that previously held bare wire cable had developed burrs at the edges.

In 2015 World Sailing once again allowed HMPE lifelines, though only for multihulls and near-shore racing (Categories 4 and 5). To combat chafe, World Sailing increased the specified diameters for smaller lines. Data collected so far suggests these lifelines will remain as strong as steel through a five- to eight-year lifespan, depending on use. The World Sailing specifications for sailing boat lifelines are available online at https://www.sailing.org/specialregs

Although World Sailing permits smaller diameter lines, we recommend a minimum of -inch Dyneema for the top lifeline. This guarantees a longer service life for just a few dollars more. The most important installation step-other than following splicing instructions-is to very carefully prepare the stanchion holes, removing all burrs and polishing with 1200 grit sandpaper. Chafe guards can also be inserted, made from 2-inch lengths of plastic tubing or nylon tubular webbing (see Fiber Protection Plan , PS September 2015).


New England Ropes STS (heat set Dyneema) is quite firm. It reminded us of the Amsteel cables used in our pull testing rig, which have seen hard use. New England Ropes HTS 78 and Endura 12 (conventional Dyneema) are a very supple line with the same braid as STS. Safeway Lines Tow Cable (generic Dyneema, aka HMPE) has a considerably looser weave and is slightly more prone to snagging. By the time of publication, we could no longer find this brand, although nearly identical products are offered under other brand names. All of the tested ropes spliced very easily.

Strength. Heat-set Dyneema has a slight advantage over normal Dyneema in initial strength, the result of the fibers and the molecules within them being better aligned. However, data from ropes suggest that this process also happens naturally under high load, and were inclined to believe that. We’ve see the changes that occur in highly loaded rigging and in cables that have been repeatedly loaded to high fractions of breaking strength on test stands; the rope becomes firm, like heat set, and stretch is reduced.

All of the products, including the generic HMPE tow cable, met the manufacturer specifications. The tow cable was the equivalent to SK 65 fiber.

Fatigue. The argument against heat setting is that it is just a carefully controlled, accelerated aging process. The rope is made stronger and less stretchy, but lifespan is curtailed. Manufacturers of heat-set rope emphasize that heat-set ropes are stronger and thus have an inherently longer fatigue life. We’ve found no third party data comparing heat set vs. conventional HMPE fatigue life.

As a practical matter, it probably doesn’t make much difference. Correctly sized ropes will fail from chafe or UV damage long before fatigue becomes an issue. Colligo performed a 10-year study of Dynice Dux (heat-set Dyneema) that showed a straight-line decay from full strength to half strength in eight years. Obviously, usage and climate has an effect, so the recommendation for cruisers in the tropics is for replacement in five to seven years-fine considering the overspecified sizes for Dux. However, at the rate that Dyneema loses strength, the only thing keeping up the mast at 15 years will be wishful thinking. If you have Dyneema standing rigging, respect the replacement schedule.

Abrasion. Several riggers told us heat set Dyneema was less abrasion resistant than conventional Dyneema when used with a turning block, tackle, or adjustable backstay. However, during the pendulum torture test, none of the samples showed any appreciable damage after being tested for an hour across wood. Not a fiber was out of place, implying that even cheap Dyneema has a very long service life if properly installed. Polyester double braid showed 10-20 percent chafe damage under the same conditions.

The cinder block, on the other hand, was highly damaging to all of the samples. In all cases, some of the strands were chafed more than 50 percent through, but no strand chafed completely through. The accompanying photos reflecting chafe can be misleading because the weave of the heat set Dyneema remains tight, while the looser weave of the generic cable show damage more readily.

However, when corrected for differences in fiber strength, there was relatively little difference in abrasion or strength loss between the heat-set Dyneema and the cheap tow cable. The tow cable was abraded a bit more, but it was SK 65 fiber versus SK 78. The looser weave may also have contributed to the additional chafe.

The other interesting result was the performance of polyester double braid. In previous research ( Abrasion and Break Testing , PS March 2015), Dyneema was much more durable in linear, push-pull testing than polyester, but in side-to-side testing over rough surfaces, the tightness of the braid is more important than the material. This is why polyester mooring bridles, such as Yales well-respected Maximoor, often outperform Dyneema pendants.

We like that HMPE is compact, strong, and low stretch, but it needs protection when dragged sideways across aggressive surfaces.


The best product depends on the job to be done. For standing rigging and other applications where minimal stretch and maximum strength are required, heat-set Dyneema from a reputable rope manufacture is the top choice. However, where flexibility and abrasion resistance are important-split backstays, lifelines, and low friction ring tackles, for example-conventional Dyneema will run much more smoothly.

Is there a difference in fatigue life? Were not sure. The heat set Dyneema does not like flexing around a pulley and the minimum recommended bend radius is greater.

The only clear advantage of heat set Dyneema is that when used for standing rigging, there is less construction stretch, making installation and rig tuning quicker and more predictable. In our experience, after a few months of hard use, regular Dyneema does seem to behave like heat set rope.

What about non-critical and low strain applications? The HMPE tow cable packs a lot of strength in a small space and offers a strength/dollar ratio that no other fiber can touch. On smaller boats Dyneema is nearly always over specified because the smaller sizes are just too difficult to handle. Dyneema is commonly used in low friction ring systems not because it is amazingly strong, but because it glides around turns so well.

We’ve also found many applications related to anchoring and mooring loops and pendants, where generic Dyneema delivers incredible strength in minimal space, and incredible durability if covered with a chafe guard. However, the difficulty in identifying the manufacturing source of some brands and confirm quality control keeps us skeptical. Although our field experience with generic HMPE rope has been very good to date, cost savings would be quickly erased by a failure in some critical application.

Dyneema Abrasion Test

During the chafe testing, wear ranged from 20 to 50 percent of the original diameter, and breaking strength testing after chafe testing was generally proportional to the amount of damage.

None of the twisted strands comprising the woven rope chafed through completely. In the adjacent images, the weave was separated for closer inspection.

  • The Endura 12-strand held 42 percent of its strength after chafe testing.
  • Heat set New England Ropes STS held about 40 percent of its rated strength.
  • The Safeway Tow Cable held about 38 percent of its rated strength.
  • Compared to the damage caused by the cinder block (images 1-3), the wood-chafe was far less aggressive. The generic Safeway Tow Cable, is shown here after the wood test.
  • Polyester double braid with a Maxijacket coating lasts longer than 12-plait Amsteel in side-by-side abrasion testing on the cinder block.


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Two killed in boat crash as injured man found bleeding on riverbank

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epa11352847 The bow of a river cruise ship is examined by police experts after the ship was stopped in Komarom, Hungary, 19 May 2024. Last night the ship crashed with a motor boat with eight persons onboard on Danube River, north of Budapest. One person was rescued, two bodies were recovered, and five passengers are still missing, according to police. EPA/CSABA KRIZSAN HUNGARY OUT

Two people have been killed and five others are missing after two boats crashed on the Danube River.

Hungarian police say the crash between a small motor boat and a cruise ship happened late on Saturday evening, and was reported after a man with a bleeding head wound was found on the riverbank.

He was found by the river near Veroce, which is 34 miles north of the capital Budapest. A man’s body was found close by, while the body of a woman was recovered further downstream.

The damaged motor boat was found close to the woman’s body, near a bridge on the northern outskirts of Budapest.

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Disaster response units are still searching for the five other passengers – three men and two women – who were aboard the small motor boat, with drones, boats, and rescue divers involved in the search.

Soma Csecsi, a spokesperson for Budapest police, said: ‘Police talked to the man and from his initial communication they drew the conclusion that he was probably the victim of some kind of boat accident.

‘At the time of the accident a cruise ship was located in the area, which was stopped at the town of Komarom where police have determined that the ship is damaged on one side.’

Police believe the other ship involved is the 109-metre-long cruise ship identified as Swiss-based Heidelberg.

It’s not known how many people were on board at the time, or their nationalities, and police stopped the Heidelberg more than 50 miles upriver.

An investigation against an ‘unknown perpetrator’ on suspicion of endangering water transport and causing the death of several people has now been launched by police, to discover if anyone is criminally liable for the crash.

The deadly incident comes five years after at least 27 people were killed in Budapest when a river cruise boat collided with a smaller tourist vessel, sinking it in seconds.

Tourist boat Hableany, carrying 35 people who were mostly South Korean tourists, was overtaken from behind by the much larger cruise boat, Viking Sigyn, beneath Budapest’s Margit Bridge, in May 2019.

The Ukrainian captain of the Viking Sigyn was last year found guilty of negligence leading to a fatal mass catastrophe and sentenced to five years and six months in prison. He has appealed the decision.

Get in touch with our news team by emailing us at [email protected] .

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Cruising the Moskva River: A short guide to boat trips in Russia’s capital

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There’s hardly a better way to absorb Moscow’s atmosphere than on a ship sailing up and down the Moskva River. While complicated ticketing, loud music and chilling winds might dampen the anticipated fun, this checklist will help you to enjoy the scenic views and not fall into common tourist traps.

How to find the right boat?

There are plenty of boats and selecting the right one might be challenging. The size of the boat should be your main criteria.

Plenty of small boats cruise the Moskva River, and the most vivid one is this yellow Lay’s-branded boat. Everyone who has ever visited Moscow probably has seen it.

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This option might leave a passenger disembarking partially deaf as the merciless Russian pop music blasts onboard. A free spirit, however, will find partying on such a vessel to be an unforgettable and authentic experience that’s almost a metaphor for life in modern Russia: too loud, and sometimes too welcoming. Tickets start at $13 (800 rubles) per person.

Bigger boats offer smoother sailing and tend to attract foreign visitors because of their distinct Soviet aura. Indeed, many of the older vessels must have seen better days. They are still afloat, however, and getting aboard is a unique ‘cultural’ experience. Sometimes the crew might offer lunch or dinner to passengers, but this option must be purchased with the ticket. Here is one such  option  offering dinner for $24 (1,490 rubles).

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If you want to travel in style, consider Flotilla Radisson. These large, modern vessels are quite posh, with a cozy restaurant and an attentive crew at your service. Even though the selection of wines and food is modest, these vessels are still much better than other boats.

dyneema sailboat lifelines

Surprisingly, the luxurious boats are priced rather modestly, and a single ticket goes for $17-$32 (1,100-2,000 rubles); also expect a reasonable restaurant bill on top.

How to buy tickets?

Women holding photos of ships promise huge discounts to “the young and beautiful,” and give personal invitations for river tours. They sound and look nice, but there’s a small catch: their ticket prices are usually more than those purchased online.

“We bought tickets from street hawkers for 900 rubles each, only to later discover that the other passengers bought their tickets twice as cheap!”  wrote  (in Russian) a disappointed Rostislav on a travel company website.

Nevertheless, buying from street hawkers has one considerable advantage: they personally escort you to the vessel so that you don’t waste time looking for the boat on your own.

dyneema sailboat lifelines

Prices start at $13 (800 rubles) for one ride, and for an additional $6.5 (400 rubles) you can purchase an unlimited number of tours on the same boat on any given day.

Flotilla Radisson has official ticket offices at Gorky Park and Hotel Ukraine, but they’re often sold out.

Buying online is an option that might save some cash. Websites such as  this   offer considerable discounts for tickets sold online. On a busy Friday night an online purchase might be the only chance to get a ticket on a Flotilla Radisson boat.

This  website  (in Russian) offers multiple options for short river cruises in and around the city center, including offbeat options such as ‘disco cruises’ and ‘children cruises.’ This other  website  sells tickets online, but doesn’t have an English version. The interface is intuitive, however.

Buying tickets online has its bad points, however. The most common is confusing which pier you should go to and missing your river tour.

dyneema sailboat lifelines

“I once bought tickets online to save with the discount that the website offered,” said Igor Shvarkin from Moscow. “The pier was initially marked as ‘Park Kultury,’ but when I arrived it wasn’t easy to find my boat because there were too many there. My guests had to walk a considerable distance before I finally found the vessel that accepted my tickets purchased online,” said the man.

There are two main boarding piers in the city center:  Hotel Ukraine  and  Park Kultury . Always take note of your particular berth when buying tickets online.

Where to sit onboard?

Even on a warm day, the headwind might be chilly for passengers on deck. Make sure you have warm clothes, or that the crew has blankets ready upon request.

The glass-encased hold makes the tour much more comfortable, but not at the expense of having an enjoyable experience.

dyneema sailboat lifelines

Getting off the boat requires preparation as well. Ideally, you should be able to disembark on any pier along the way. In reality, passengers never know where the boat’s captain will make the next stop. Street hawkers often tell passengers in advance where they’ll be able to disembark. If you buy tickets online then you’ll have to research it yourself.

There’s a chance that the captain won’t make any stops at all and will take you back to where the tour began, which is the case with Flotilla Radisson. The safest option is to automatically expect that you’ll return to the pier where you started.

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dyneema sailboat lifelines

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  1. How to install Dyneema lifelines

    dyneema sailboat lifelines

  2. DIY Dyneema Lifelines

    dyneema sailboat lifelines

  3. DIY Install: Dyneema Synthetic Lifelines on a Sailboat

    dyneema sailboat lifelines

  4. Dyneema Lifelines

    dyneema sailboat lifelines

  5. Dyneema Lifelines; DYI, Easy and Cheap!

    dyneema sailboat lifelines

  6. How to install Dyneema lifelines

    dyneema sailboat lifelines


  1. Lifeboats

  2. DYNEEMA [Part 1]: Replace Your Rigging

  3. Colligo lifeline gates

  4. Dyneema Lazy Jacks, DIY!

  5. Topping Lift

  6. Our Lifelines on Our Sailboat. #sailboat #shortvideos


  1. Dyneema Lifelines

    How To DIY Install Dyneema Lifelines on a Sailboat. Back in April 2019, we decided to replace our original standard cable lifelines with Dyneema synthetic lifelines. I had already done several projects that helped me learn how to splice Dyneema line. (This is the set of splicing fids that I use! It works great!)

  2. How to install Dyneema lifelines

    How to install Dyneema lifelines. January 22, 2021 goldenstate. Summary. I replaced the aged stainless steel cable lifelines on my boat with Dyneema synthetic lines. The total cost was around $600 and I learned how to eye splice a single braid rope. It took a total of about 8 hours to install the lines.

  3. Dyneema Lifelines; DYI, Easy and Cheap!

    This is what I used on our 44′ catamaran to make our Dyneema lifelines. You may need different sizes or quantities depending on your boat. Thick 12 strand single braid Dyneema for your main lifelines (I used 6 mm thick and approximately 65 meters long)* Thin Dyneema for your lashings (I used 3 mm thick and 9 meters long)

  4. Making Dyneema Sailboat Lifelines

    We assemble dyneema lifelines on this Cape Dory 26 and demonstrate making the locked Brummel splice and Estar hitch.Knots and splicing video links:Buntline a...

  5. Dyneema Lifelines

    Dyneema is the material of choice for synthetic lifelines. Dyneema is soft on the hands, easy to splice, and stronger than steel with just a fraction of the weight. Dyneema is a modern fiber made of High Modulus Polyethylene (HMPE) which offers incredible strength for its weight and size. They offer a strength greater than steel without any of ...

  6. DIY Dyneema Lifelines

    🔔SUBSCRIBE http://bit.ly/SBYouTube⛵ Dyneema lifelines are seen on many sailboats these days. This DIY Dyneema lifeline installation video might help expla...

  7. Dyneema Life Lines

    Dyneema Life Lines , complete varation of fittings and several Dynemma color options to replace your existing wire . ... Large Boat Kit - Complete Life Line kit - Dyneema SK78 -UP TO 40' Sailboat - LLK002. Life line KIT - DYNEEMA. From $245.00 . More Info. Splice Line - Splice End to Splice Eye Fitting- LS-3200. Life line terminal - Splice End ...

  8. DIY Dyneema Lifelines

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  9. PDF Revised 1/22/2014 Dyneema®/ Spectra® Lifelines

    lifelines when the line is new because line is more vulnerable to degradation from UV and to chafe and its strength will decline over time. There are basically four different line solutions you can use: 1. The minimum allowed lifeline is an HMPE single braid line that meets the minimum diameter requirement for the size boat.

  10. Know how: Replacing Lifelines

    As with so many other things on our 1987 Pearson 39-2 project boat, the lifelines looked to be original equipment. Made of vinyl-coated 3/16in 7x7 stainless. ... the increasing uses on board of the low-stretch, super-strong fiber Dyneema have spread to the humble lifeline. I'd replaced the rusted-out lifelines on our previous boat with coated ...

  11. Colligo Marine LLC

    If the lashings are changed every 2-3 years your lifelines will last at least 5-8 years in the tropics. Colligo Marine can customize synthetic lifelines for boats of any size! Dyneema lifelines are approved for offshore use by the United States Sailing and the International Sailing Federation. Line is lighter and easier on the hands (& sails ...

  12. Dyneema Resources

    We use it for all sorts of things aboard our sailboat (like our dyneema lifelines)! It is a fiber and, of course, can be susceptible to failure in certain conditions, such as extended exposure to strong UV-rays and chafe. But keeping these weaknesses in mind, there are very few single supply items that I would rank higher in importance aboard a ...

  13. The Lifeline Quandary

    When all was said and done, I replaced my lifelines with Dyneema line, with chafe guards where necessary. Roger Hughes. The vinyl-coated wire lifelines on my 1977 Downeaster 45 schooner, Britannia, were well past their prime.Sections of the vinyl coating had faded into a dull brown—with parts chafed and cracked, exposing the wire—and many of the chrome fittings had lost their luster.

  14. Revised Lifeline Protection Plan

    Multihulls are prime candidates for upgraded lifeline protection using high modulus fiber rope. In September 2012, Practical Sailor published a long-term evaluation of synthetic lifelines. World Sailing (then ISAF) initially accepted Dyneema lifelines in 2012, but then banned it from all offshore racing in 2015.

  15. Replacing Your Lifelines

    Stanchion height and placement, line spacing (both horizontally and vertically), tension, deflection, toerails, etc. all need to be carefully considered. For professional installation or to discuss your own lifelines, email us at [email protected] or call us at 619-223-3788. We always look forward to hearing from you!

  16. When and How to Replace Your Lifelines

    Sizing Lifeline Wire. Racing sailboats should follow the World Sailing Offshore Special Regulations 3.14.6, which are summarized as follows: Up to 28' LOA—1/8" wire; 28-43' LOA—5/32" wire; 43' LOA and up—3/16" wire. These sizes are minimums; you can use larger sizes. 5/32" wire is not common in the US, but West Marine Rigging offers it on ...

  17. Dyneema Abrasion Test

    As outlined in our previous report on lifelines, high modulus polyethylene (HMPE) fiber rope has revolutionized sailboat rigging during the past decade (see Fiber lifeline Protection Plan, PS September 2015 online), however sailors arent the only ones benefitting from the introduction of this super-strong, low-stretch cordage.Virtually any application that once employed a stranded wire-rope ...

  18. Sailboat Lifeline Fittings: Turnbuckles, Eyes, Hooks

    For durable sailboat lifeline systems, rely on the experts at Fisheries Supply. Browse hardware from top brands like Johnson, Hayn, Sea-Dog, Garhauer, and more. ... Stanchion Grommet for Dyneema Lifelines. SKU: 1024724 | Item ID: JOH BPG-2038. $0.84. In Stock. Johnson Marine Hardware Hand Crimp Tubular Lifeline Gate Hook. Available in 2 options ...

  19. PDF North American Portsmouth Yardstick Table of Pre-Calculated Classes

    Boat Class Code DPN DPN1 DPN2 DPN3 DPN4. PRECALCULATED D-PN HANDICAPS CENTERBOARD CLASSES FJ (Int.) Centerboard FJ 97.90 100.90 99.30 98.20 (95.80) Flipper Centerboard FLIP (99.40) (99.50) Flipper (Canadian) Centerboard FLCA 97.00 (98.70) Flying Cloud Centerboard FLCL (133.00) [134.0] Flying Dutchman (Int.) Centerboard. FD.

  20. DIY Install: Dyneema Synthetic Lifelines on a Sailboat

    Once measured, go ahead and make your splice and insert the thimble. From that point, you need to prepare your lashing. For mine, I used a smaller Dyneema line that I already had here at the boat: 1/8-inch Dyneema. First, attach one end of the lashing line to the lifeline at the thimble with a double figure 8 knot.

  21. Ian Wright in tears as he makes last-ever Match of the Day ...

    Ian Wright tears up as he makes last-ever Match of the Day appearance. Ian Wright bid an emotional farewell to Match of the Day on Sunday night after over two decades in the punditry chair. The 60 ...

  22. Two dead and five missing after boat crash on the Danube river

    Two people have been killed and five others are missing after two boats crashed on the Danube River. Hungarian police say the crash between a small motor boat and a cruise ship happened late on ...

  23. Cruising the Moskva River: A short guide to boat trips in Russia's

    Prices start at $13 (800 rubles) for one ride, and for an additional $6.5 (400 rubles) you can purchase an unlimited number of tours on the same boat on any given day.

  24. Tony Hawk's Underground: #7 Moscow (Sick Difficulty)

    Please Subscribe =) Road to 100K!- Full Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLz1UQhw0O7bZmHen1FJudpHK_MryCq6-JWalkthrough00:00 Intro- CHAPTER 20:...