skipjack sailboat plans

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20' Fisher Skipjack Plans

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Description

The origin of the skipjack is a little obscure - they seem to have been a development of the flat bottomed sharpie with many examples having a much wider beam than the sharpie, a deadrise to the bottom and great flare to the topsides. However, historians are divided and some see the hull type as nothing to do with the sharpie form at all and simply a development in North American working boat hull shape in it's own right. Whatever the origin, examples were to be seen in the Gulf of Mexico in the 1880's and they were later built at Martha's Vineyard (Massachusetts) and Chesapeake Bay.

Apart from their distinctive hulls, they usually sported a gaff main with single jib and were characterized by their sweeping sheer line. All in all, these features lead to a very seaworthy, easily built and very 'salty' looking craft.

Construction is ply plank over frame with the ply fore and aft girder combined with the centreboard case set up with the ply bulkheads and frames upside down. Stringers are added before everything is cleaned up and made ready for the ply planking. To make things simple and low cost, the ballast, as in the original boats is in the bilges in the form of scrap steel or lead.

The standard layout is for twin berths plus room for a galley and wc and a large cockpit but this can be easily altered to suit your own requirements.

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May / June Issue No. 298  Preview Now

Sailboats - Cruising

24' 8" skipjack, calico jack.

A shoal-draft, two-sail bateau from the Chesapeake - comfortable cruising for a couple and a daysailing party.

Construction: Traditional Chesapeake bateau construction.

Lofting is required.

Plans include 7 sheets.

Design Specifications

The WoodenBoat Store Post Office Box 78 Brooklin, Maine 04616 USA Phone: 1.800.273.7447

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SUNDANCE II "Colonia" sailing dinghy designed in 1901 by Nathanael G. Herreshoff.

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OUR TWO MOST POPULAR SAILING RIGS IN ONE SET OF PLANS!!

We have just finished a New set of plans for our two most popular sailing rigs: Our Aluminium Lateen Rig and The Weekender/Super-Skipjack Gaff Rig!

This is a collection of ALL of the information needed to make both the Lateen and the Gaff rigs, in a handy 49-page digital booklet. Complete plans, with drawings and building guides, as always with our plans.

Buy the Stevenson Projects Sail Rig Plans on Etsy for only 9.95!

Make this beautiful, Classic Gaff Rig for YOUR boat!

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Plans & Inst.-Kit #1704-Skipjack

Description.

Plans & Instructions-Kit #1704-Skipjack Sailboat

**Please Note** Plans are not suited for scratch build

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BayDreaming.com

Your guide to the chesapeake bay, chesapeake bay skipjacks.

The Chesapeake Bay skipjack fleet is the last commercial sailing powered fishing fleet in North America. Many of the remaining ships are in poor condition and the decline in oyster harvests has left their captains with little profit to maintain their vessels.

Soon after its introduction to the Chesapeake in the 1890s, the skipjack became the preferred oyster dredge boat. Some have estimated nearly two thousand skipjacks were built, all specifically designed for dredging oysters from the Chesapeake Bay. The peak building years were during the 1890s and the first decade of the 20th century.

Oystermen needed a light, inexpensive boat that was easy to construct and could navigate the shallower waters of the Bay. The skipjack’s wide beam, hard chine, and low freeboard provided a stable, large working and storage platform. The single-masted rig, with sharp-headed mainsail and large jib, was easy to handle, powerful in light winds, and capable of coming about quickly without losing way. All these traits made the skipjack ideally suited to performing continuous “licks” (passes) over the oyster beds. The skipjack was also so simple to build that even house carpenters could construct one.  As a result, hundreds of skipjacks were built when they first came on the scene in the 1890s and during their heyday there were as many as two thousand skipjacks on the Bay.

Significant decline in oyster prices in the early 1900s resulted in the abandonment and destruction of much of the skipjack fleet. Oyster prices increased somewhat after WWII, leading to the construction of a few new skipjacks. At that point the size of the fleet climbed into the 70s. The skipjack fleet, however, has declined slowly ever since then.

Today, there are only about 30 skipjacks left, and many of those are in such poor condition that it is unlikely that they can be rejuvenated.  A few of the originals, however, have been lovingly restored, and some of thee newer vessels that have been kept in good repair.

Some of the restored vessels are on display at museums, while others are used for educational purposes. And there are a few skipjacks left that still ply the trade they were originally built for, dredging for oysters on the Chesapeake Bay.

In the year 2000, the State of Maryland made a commitment to preserving and restoring the Chesapeake Bay skipjack fleet. The first step taken by the state was to designate the skipjack as the official state boat, because of its historic and economic importance and its symbolic value as a representation of the people of Maryland and their lifestyle. Second, the state formed a task force to address some of the obstacles that have led to the decline of the fleet. One recommendation which emerged was to provide subsidized repair services to the active dredge vessels to stabilize their condition while the oyster stocks were being replenished. The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum has provided the use of its boat shop facility, marine railway, and skilled staff for fleet repair.

With funding from The Maryland Historic Trust, the National Trust for Historic Preservation, and numerous private businesses, the skipjack restoration project began in July of 2001. Under the direction of a the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum’s master shipwright, a crew of boat carpenter apprentices are providing the skilled labor needed to accomplish the task. Chesapeake Bay wood boatbuilding techniques are being handed down to the next generation and skipjacks are being preserved for generations to come. Since the program’s inception, nine skipjacks have received repair services from the restoration project.

“Skipjack”

The name “skipjack” is said to have been derived from fish, such as the skipjack mackerel or skipjack tuna, that jump in and out of the water because these boats can sometimes resemble the fish as they come about quickly making continuous passes or “licks” over oyster beds.  Another possible origin of the name is an archaic English word meaning “inexpensive yet useful servant”.  The typical cost of a skipjack in 1905 was $3,000.

The Remaining Skipjacks

• Ada Fears.  Ridge, MD.  Built in Oxford, Maryland in 1968.
• Caleb W. Jones.  Built in 1953.
• City of Crisfield.  Deal Island, Maryland.  Built in Reedville, Virginia in 1949.
• City of Norfolk. Norfolk, Virginia.  Built in Deale, Maryland in 1900.
• Claud M. Somers.  Reedville, VA.  Built in Accomack County, VA in 1911.
• Dee of St. Mary’s . Calvert Marine Museum, Solomons, MD.  Built in Piney Point, Maryland in 1979.
• E.C. Collier.  St. Michaels, MD.  Built in Deal Island in 1910.
• Elsworth.  Worton, MD.  Built in 1901.
• Fanny L. Daugherty.  Deal Island, MD.  Built in Crisfield, Maryland in 1904.
• F.C. Lewis, Jr.  West Denton, MD.
• Helen Virginia .  Built in Crisfield, Maryland in 1948.
• Hilda M. Willing .  Tilghman Island, Maryland.  Built in Oriole, Maryland in 1905.
• H.M. Krentz.  Tilghman Island, MD.  Built in Harryhogan, Virginia in 1955.
• Ida May. Deal Island, MD.  Built in Urbanna, Virginia in 1906.
• Joy Parks .  St. Mary’s County Piney Point Museum.  Built in 1936 in Parksley, Virginia.
• Kathryn .  Tilghman Island, Maryland.  Built in Crisfield, Maryland in 1901.
• Lady Katie.  Cambridge, MD.  Built in Wingate, Maryland in 1956.
• Mamie A. Mister.  Tilghman Island, MD.  Built in Deal Island, Maryland in 1911.
• Martha Lewis.  Havre de Grace, MD.  Built in Wingate, Maryland in 1955.
• Minnie V.  Baltimore, MD.  Built in Wenonah, Maryland in 1906.
• Nathan .  Cambridge, MD. Built Cambridge, Maryland in 1992.
• Nellie L. Byrd.  Tilghman Island, MD.  Built in Oriole, Maryland in 1911.
• Rebecca T. Ruark.   Tilghman Island, MD.  Built in Taylors Island, Maryland in 1886.
• Rosie Parks .  St. Michaels, MD.  Built in Wingate, Maryland in 1955.
• Sigsbee.  Baltimore, MD.  Built in Oriole, Maryland in 1901.
• Somerset.  Deal Island, MD.  Built in Reedville, Virginia in 1949.
• Stanley Norman .  Annapolis, MD.  Built in 1902.
• Thomas Clyde.  Tilghman Island, MD.  Built in Oriole, MD in 1911.
• Virginia W.  Port Kinsale, VA.  Built in Guilford, Virginia in 1904.
• Wilma Lee.  Kinsale, VA.  Built in Wingate, MD in 1940.

Go For a Sail

Several of the Chesapeake Bay skipjacks offer public cruises.  A trip on an authentic Chesapeake Bay skipjack offers a rare opportunity to experience first hand a piece of Chesapeake Bay history.

• Skipjack Claud M. Somers .  Owned and operated by the Reedville Fishermen’s Museum in Reedville, Virginia.  Offers regular sails for museum members.
• Skipjack Dee of St. Mary’s . The Calvert Marine Museum in Solomons, Maryland, offers public sails.
• Skipjack Herman Krantz , Capt. Ed Farley Skipjack Cruises out of St. Michaels, Maryland.  410-745-6080
• Skipjack Martha Lewis .  Owned and operated by the nonprofit organization, Chesapeake Heritage Conservancy.  Offers public sails out of Havre de Grace, Maryland.
• Skipjack Stanley Norman . A Chesapeake Bay Foundation skipjack that offers public sails out of Annapolis.
• Skipjack Nathan of Dorchester .  Skipjack built by volunteers in 1994.  Offers public sails out of Cambridge, Maryland.  Cruise on the scenic Choptank River, help raise her sails or take a turn at the helm, and hear stories of the working watermen.
• Skipjack Rebecca T. Ruark .  Hands-on sailing experience onboard the oldest working skipjack. Learn Chesapeake ecology, maritime history, and oyster-dredge demonstration. USCG certified 49 passengers. Walk-ons, buses, families, weddings, sunsets.   Capt. Wade H. Murphy. SkipJack Cruises out of Tilghman Island, Maryland.

Skipjack Resources

• Crockett’s Gallery – Screensaver size images of skipjacks in the Deal Island Skipjack Races.
• Skipjack Sunday – A collection on recently discovered photographs taken at Deal Island in 1967.
• Skipjacks dredge up nautical heritage for guests .  A Chesapeake Bay Journal article about Skipjacks and excursions.

Messing about in boats since 1975.  Online Since 1997.

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A 100' to 120' Cargo / Charter 'Skipjack' 100' Aft View | 100' Side View | 100' Sailing View 120' Side View | 120' Sailing View | 120' Artistic Rendering Copyright 2008 - 2016 Michael Kasten General Concept Based on a request for a classic shoal draft charter yacht of around 100 feet on deck (approximately 31 meters) with an easy to handle rig (no gaffs or tops'ls), I developed the 100' Bermuda Skipjack prototype. Then, based on another inquiry regarding the possibility of designing a 100' cargo-yacht, I developed the prototype shown above. This "Cargo Skipjack" makes use of the same hull form, but adds a cargo hold in place of the original cabins and adds a pilot house aft. As a cargo-yacht, the idea was to employ a more modest sail rig and a motor-vessel sized engine in order to take advantage of the synergy offered by motor-sailing. Given the single chine shape inherited from the original Skipjack types, this design will be ideal for steel construction, though aluminum is equally possible. The Skipjack is perhaps the ultimate in terms of being an aesthetically refined traditional sailing vessel which has always had a single chine hull shape. No one argues with the shape, since these vessels have never been otherwise. My original question was, "Could the original flat, wide, low freeboard Skipjack hull form actually be made suitable for the open ocean..?" Well, not if taken too literally.  In order to make this work, I adapted the hull to a new shape for its new ocean-going purpose, but without violating the aesthetic character of the original Skipjack types. My goal in so doing was to create a charter-worthy cargo-yacht that could be sailed with confidence on the oceans of the world; that preserved the original aesthetic character of the Skipjack type; and that could be very simply built and sailed. The first concepts in this design series were my 51' to 70' Skipjack prototypes. Taking those concepts a few steps further led first to my 100' Bermuda Skipjack prototype, and in this case has led us to create a prototype design for a pair of competent cargo-yachts with the same hull form, one at 100' and one at 120' on deck length. 100' Skipjack - Click for Larger Image Seaworthiness In order to be a good cargo-yacht suited to the open ocean, the original Skipjack hull form was made much less flat and less wide for its overall length; the hull has been made deeper; and the topsides were given more freeboard. This latter trick was accomplished without aesthetic penalty by raising the deck to the height of the rather substantial bulwarks of the original types, and then placing a bulwark and toe rail above that. Per the rigorous requirements of the EU-RCD, specifically the STIX criterion as outlined in ISO-12217, as long as the CG can be kept low, the adaptation of the Skipjack shown here has proven to score well within Category A, i.e. all ocean .   This is of course a much larger vessel than the STIX criterion is intended to address (maximum length of 78'), therefore we have additionally verified compliance with the MCA criteria for open ocean sailing under the Red Ensign LY3 code. In addition to that we have verified that the 120' Cargo Skipjack also complies with the relatively difficult USCG criteria for carrying passengers under sail.  Both of these criteria are for carrying passengers under sail, and are much more rigorous than any of the regulatory requirements for carrying cargo.   Hull Form Given that this design still has somewhat more beam than would a typical yacht, the initial stability is excellent, providing for stiff sailing without excessive depth of keel. The long straight keel, with slight 'drag' over its full length, provides for the ultimate in tracking at sea, while not offering too much keel below. This combination is the very best at being able to avoid broaching or being tripped by a sea. With this keel configuration, a centerboard would be ideal in order to provide more 'bite' to windward. But as a "motor-sailor" there is really no need to do so. Alternately, if the keel were shaped differently the ballast could be lowered further. This would not necessarily make the keel deeper overall, it would just become level on the bottom, but still raked downward in the forward third. In other words, starting aft, the keel would remain at the full depth of the rudder heel for approximately 2/3 of the keel length, and then would slope upward to the depth of the stem forward. With that configuration, it would not be at all necessary to use a centerboard, vastly simplifying the whole thing, but still able to sail in the same depth of water. The overall benefit of the Skipjack shape is its refined traditional aesthetics, combined with an economically built and easily driven hull form. Inevitably comes the question then... 'Isn't a rounded hull faster..?' We answer this question the same way every time: A single chine shape has very slightly more wetted surface, therefore more sail area is indicated making it the equal of a rounded hull. In section, the single chine shape has just a bit more 'shoulder' below the waterline which allows the boat to carry that extra sail area without penalty in terms of heel. At speed, in particular when sailing fast down wind, the chine shape is actually faster due to being able to develop greater dynamic lift. The single chine shape has other advantages... primarily that of being quite simple to build in metal, therefore requiring considerably less labor. In terms of speed per dollar, since one can afford to make a single chine vessel longer than one could afford to do with a rounded or multi-chine hull form, there are substantial performance gains to be had.   The 100' Cargo Skipjack Particulars of the 100' Cargo Skipjack are: Length on Deck - 100' Beam on Deck - 28.5' WL Length - 85' Draft - just under 9' at the rudder heel Displacement at DWL - 168 Long Tons The 100’ Skipjack has a preliminary carrying capacity of around 24 long tons. Maximum load for this size amounts to around 14% of the light ship displacement.  At 3.9 long tons per inch of immersion, the max load implies a total immersion of 6 inches.   The 120' Cargo Skipjack Particulars of the 120' Cargo Skipjack are: Length on Deck - 120' Beam on Deck - 33.3' WL Length - 100.4' Draft - just under 10.5' at the rudder heel Displacement at DWL - 276 Long Tons The 120’ Skipjack has a preliminary carrying capacity of around 44 long tons.  Maximum load amounts to around 16% of the light ship displacement.  The 120’ Skipjack has an average capacity of 5.5 long tons per inch of immersion.  Thus the cargo capacity of 44 tons assumes 8 inches of immersion at maximum loading.  The 120’ Skipjack, when light, has a Displacement to Length ratio of 276.  When loaded the D/L is 306, therefore still a medium displacement vessel even when loaded.   120' Cargo Skipjack - Click for Larger Image Sailing Rig For the rig, in order to make good use of modern materials, the spars will ideally be fabricated using welded aluminum pipe.  Alternately, at this size steel pipe masts can be very workable. The sail materials will be Dacron, and a performance oriented sail cut should be used. As a cargo yacht, the schooner rig keeps the masts clear of the hold nicely. It could just as easily be a gaff rig, but what I’ve shown is quite a bit simpler.  The rig must be kept rather low-aspect for this adventure, but it need not be shy on sail area. A modified Bugeye or modified Bermuda rig will be ideal. Aesthetically this seems to provide just the right dose of tradition, while also providing excellent performance in an easily handled rig. I have referred to these as ‘motor-sailing’ vessels, however even though they’re intended to have a fully capable engine with all the usual motor vessel systems and fuel capacity, they are not lacking in the sailing department at all.  For example, the Sail Area of the 120’ Skipjack is intended to be between 9,000 and 10,000 square feet.  At 10k sq. ft. of sail, in the half load condition, the Sail Area to Displacement ratio is 22 (within an expected range of 15 to 22), and the Sail Area to Wetted Surface ratio is 3.3 (within an expected range of 2.0 to 2.5).  With that, the speed potential is around 14 to 14.5 knots, so the sailing department is not lacking in any way.  Those sail area ratios are quite high, but they are calculated in the half load condition, therefore when fully loaded, though the ratios will be slightly more modest, they will still be well within the upper end of the expected range.  In other words, the fully loaded sailing performance should be quite brisk.  As well, the sailing will be quite stiff, at only 9 degrees of heel in 15 knots of wind directly abeam on the sails (half load condition).  When deeply loaded, the CG would be lower and the heel would be less.  Typical heel for a vessel of this size is expected to be on the order of around 8 to 13 degrees, with the norm being around 10 degrees, so the design is at the stiff end of the spectrum, even without a deep keel.   Layout Options At 120’ on deck length, the Skipjack model is able to have a cargo hatch of 25’ length by around 20’ width. The hold that I have modeled is roughly 42.5’ in length, 11 feet in height and roughly 30’ width. The hold would take four 20’ containers below, two on each side of the centerboard trunk. Since the cargo hold must be amidships for the best balance, I have modeled a deck house aft having 7 feet of interior headroom with a bridge right forward. There is room for four cabins of 3 meters square each aft of the bridge, or two cabins and a large galley or lounge. I’ve allowed for an engine room aft of the cargo hold, with tanks on each side. Additional tanks are below the cargo hold sole.  Aft of the engine room, below the deck house, that space could possibly used for the galley and a workshop, or whatever is required. Forward of the cargo hold, there is room for two crew cabins with a crew galley, mess, and ship’s laundry. This is not a “luxury charter” layout, although certainly the cargo hold could be transformed into four or more ultra deluxe suites for charters if that were to be the preferred use. The main thing with charters is to have enough room for ample crew to pamper the guests…!   As imagined, this design would achieve that requirement nicely.   Summary This is just how the working sailors of yore would have adapted such a vessel to its new purpose, i.e. that of a safe, easily built ocean sailing craft. Whether it is an "exact" replica of a fat old oyster boat is a completely silly question. But given the proper attention to detail, no-one would even notice...! Fast cruising, windward ability, seaworthiness, simplicity of construction, ruggedness, and a reasonable cost to build and maintain... these have been the primary goals of the design. At least in my view, those goals have been superbly met. For more information, please inquire .   120' Cargo Skipjack - Click for Larger Image  

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Boat Profile

A Stevenson project

From Issue   March 2020

T he Weekender is a plywood gaff-sloop pocket yacht designed by Peter Stevenson and first presented to the public in a two-page article in the March 1981 issue of Popular Science magazine. In the decades that have followed, it has been a very popular design. I was drawn to its classic look and simple construction. Eager to learn how to sail—and to find out if my wife would enjoy sailing too—I was excited about the journey of the build and encouraged by the many helpful examples of other builders who are linked to the Stevenson website.

The Weekender draws 3′ with the rudder deployed; with its blade retracted, the hull draws 1′.

I bought the set of plans and the two companion DVDs. The combination of the 44 printed pages and three-and-a-half hours of video were helpful, entertaining, and, above all, encouraging. The plans are well illustrated with some photos and many nice drawings. There are no full-sized patterns, so each part is drawn right onto the materials. Step-by-step instructions keep the process going in the correct order. As a shipbuilder, I found the instructions clear and straightforward. My granddaughter, who was three years old when we started and nearly seven when we finished, was as eager to build the boat as I was, and we watched the video instructions several times together. Even at her young age, she could recognize the steps we had completed and the ones we had yet to accomplish, a good indication of how easy the plans were to follow. For me, the video clarified the few places in the plans that I was having difficulty understanding. Mike Stevenson, Peter’s son, who took over the business, has assured me that the most recent revision has eliminated some of those sticking points.

The Weekender has a very unusual construction: it is built right-side up with the stem and keel serving as the strongback. The deep keel and its integral stem are made of three laminates of 4/4 pine, fir, or mahogany. The keel, 10″ at its deepest, is rigid enough to support the build. I built a cradle to hold it upright throughout the build. Plywood is joined with butt plates to get the necessary length and width for the bottom panel; the bottom is attached to keel with screws and epoxy. The deck is added and secured at the stem and then temporarily propped up until the transom and three bulkheads are installed. The side panels go on next and they’ll extend above the deck to become part of a toerail. The construction then follows a more common sequence, with the assembly of the cockpit and the cabin. The hull, deck, cockpit, and cabin are sheathed with 6-oz fiberglass and epoxy.

The plans indicate a solid mast, and I built mine as per the instructions; however, a lighter hollow version would be much easier to raise. Details to build the wheel, trailboards, towing bitt, and bowsprit are included. There is also an option included to add a taffrail.

The forward hatch provides access to the storage space in the bow. The block to the right, held upright by a spring, is for the single sheet that controls the jib boom.

M y PT Cruiser has enough power to pull our Weekender. The boat has a somewhat deep keel for a flat-bottomed boat, so bunks are required under chines to support the hull. At the ramp, it’s easiest to float the boat off the trailer; at shallow ramps it can be a bit of a struggle sliding it off, in part because the two batteries I use for the trolling-motor auxiliary power add significantly to the Weekender’s weight. However, the boat can be winched up onto a trailer that’s not fully submerged. It takes as little as 30 minutes after arrival at the ramp to get the rigging in place and have it in the water; the most time-consuming part of launching and loading the boat is almost always the attention it attracts from people watching. When people gather around, the time at the ramp stretches out to a bit more than an hour.

The mast tabernacle is created with two strap hinges—one aft to act as the pivot, and one forward with a loose pin to lock the mast upright—and it works well. The two pairs of shrouds have turnbuckles that are adjusted each time the mast is raised; they remain connected, and only the forestay is removed for lowering the mast.

The 5’ bowsprit is fixed and anchors the forestay at its tip and the jib’s 60″ clubfoot at its middle. The club foot pivots about halfway out on the sprit, and the jib clears the mast when tacking and requires only a single sheet. I have added a downhaul to the jib so that I can both raise and lower the jib going no farther forward than the companionway. I also led the main’s throat and peak halyards to cockpit so I didn’t have to go forward to the mast to drop the sails.

To help keep the mainsail from overwhelming the cockpit when it’s lowered, I added lazyjacks. The plans specify eyebolts and a bit of pipe and metal strapping to make the gooseneck; I instead made an aluminum gooseneck with an extension that allows me to pivot the boom fully vertical and scandalize the mainsail. When coming into harbor, it’s a quick way to douse the mainsail and clear the cockpit for docking. This has proven most helpful especially when sailing alone. I also fabricated an aluminum masthead fitting to help with the rigging and give me a base for an anchor light and a wind-sock vane.

The rudder is in a rudder box that is an integral part of the tiller arm that is connected by lines and pulleys to facilitate a wheel. The rudder must be pivoted and locked up for transport. The wheel keeps the cockpit free of a long tiller that would most certainly use up the limited space. I find it quite handy.

The Weekender carries a total of 120 sq ft of sail. The jib, with its boom and single sheet, is self tending, so tacking is uncomplicated.

U nder sail, the Weekender is like a sports car and very snappy in response on most points of sail. It can sail remarkably close to the wind for a gaff rig, and the self-tending jib makes tacking a snap. Its club foot is an excellent touch to the rigging, making singlehanding very simple. The Weekender can ghost along with hardly any discernible wind, although in light air it can be a bit hard to tack if the boat doesn’t have quite enough way on; the long keel requires some momentum to overcome its resistance to sweeping sideways when tacking. I have found that moving my weight to the downwind side forces the boat to heel, and it will gain speed and increase its ability to turn.

The Weekender is a pretty stable little boat, and ours is made a bit more so by the weight of the batteries for the trolling motor. It is stable when one is standing on the foredeck; however, it is a small boat, so if you step off-center it will move accordingly. But I have never felt that it was going to come out from under me.

The Weekender was initially designed with a centerboard, but the full keel provided good performance to windward and the board and trunk were eliminated from the design, freeing up cabin space.

The hull can take waves better than one might guess for being so close to the water. The flat bottom can slap a bit depending on the angle of approach to the waves, but that same flat bottom can also surf down waves quite well, getting some help from the broach-countering directional stability of the full-length keel. I have found the cockpit to be generally dry with only occasional spray from hitting a larger wave. I prefer fair-weather sailing with our boat. When running dead downwind, wing-on-wing, the boat performs well; it’s a comfortable point of sail for the crew, with the hull sitting pretty much bolt upright.

For auxiliary power, we have a 55-lb-thrust electric trolling motor. While the plans call for a mount made of a 2″ x 10″ chunk of wood through-bolted to the transom, I designed and welded an aluminum bracket. The motor pushes the boat at just the right speed for harbor maneuvers, and provides an occasional boost to make a tack in light air. I have the two batteries on separate switches, but they can be combined for back-up power. I have run out of power only when I forgot to charge one of the batteries.

The cockpit benches include dry storage compartment aft and extensions of the cabin space forward.

The cockpit is not large, but it has enough room for the me and my wife to be comfortable, even when we’re sailing with our granddaughter and our small dog. The cockpit footwell is not self-draining and we have been caught several times in squalls that filled half of the cockpit, so I added a bilge pump under the hinged step at the forward end of the cockpit. The cockpit seats have hatches, and aft sections serve as storage. The curved coaming, shaped from a stack of 4/4 stock, makes a comfortable backrest and keeps water out when the toerail is in the water under sail. I cold-molded my coaming out of 1/8″ x 2″ sapele.

The wheel is more than an affectation. It doesn’t crowd the cockpit as a tiller would.

I added running lights to our Weekender as well as a small LED to illuminate the cockpit for the times when we are out later than expected or after dark at anchor. My wife and I have slept aboard comfortably on several occasions. We rig a boom tent for privacy and rain protection so we can keep the companionway open through a warm night; to clear the berths, we move most of the gear that usually resides in the cabin into the cockpit. The bottom serves as the berth and is flat, save for one transverse butt block, but with foam mattresses it’s not noticeable. The space works best sleeping with heads forward and our feet aft to take advantage of the space under the cockpit benches. Shelves with rails on their sides are a nice feature and are in fact part of the rigid framing.

The bulkhead at the forward end of the cabin allows access to the storage compartment in the bow. Rails on the shelves port and starboard keep gear in place while under sail.

T he designed cabin has sitting headroom if you are of average height—I made our cabin a couple of inches higher than the design, for even more sitting headroom. There is no cabin footwell, so sitting is with legs outstretched on the bottom. There is access through the forward bulkhead to storage space under the foredeck, but it is easiest to use the foredeck hatch for larger items. The storage bin/seat at the companionway has proven to be a great addition for holding safety equipment, and it has also been a good speaker box for our CD player.

The aft end of the cabin provides a place to stow a portable toilet when it’s not in use. At right, one of the spaces under the cockpit benches is visible.

Ken Hauenstein lives in Burlington, Washington, just a few miles from Puget Sound, and is a general contractor who does all manner of work including interior boat remodels. He dreamed of working with boats from an early age and had his first real exposure working in a boat factory building interiors for cabin cruisers. He later worked in various shipyards and ran his own cabinet shop. His last shipyard job ended in 2017 as he made plans to retire. He started HUMMINGBIRD while working there. Since then he has built two dinghies, one wood and one aluminum. He is currently building a large aluminum ketch. He hasn’t set a launch date, and won’t because he finds the work therapeutic and likes to give the details all the attention they deserve.

Weekender Particulars

LOA/19′ 6″ LOD/16′ Beam/6′ Draft/3′ (1′’ with the rudder up) Hull weight/550 lbs Sail area/120 sq ft Crew capacity/Daysailing, up to four; Overnight, two cozily, one easily Auxiliary Power/up to 5 hp outboard or 45-lb thrust electric

Plans ($45) and DVDs ($57) for the Weekender are available from Stevenson Projects .

Is there a boat you’d like to know more about? Have you built one that you think other Small Boats Magazine readers would enjoy? Please email us!

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Comments (44)

Is there really enough headroom to use the porta-potti in the cabin?

The headroom in the cabin is limited to sitting, so the porta-potti is just stored there. I took the photographs for the review and I had only enough headroom for sitting on the floor cushions.

The cushions in the cabin have a removable section to move the porta-potti into the companionway should the need be dire. We have never used it since we put it in there however.

First, I would congratulate you for the amazing job you have done. I appreciate it as I’m currently building a Weekender for some time. The hull is quite finished now and the next step is the rig. I would be very interested in getting some pictures of the gooseneck and masthead that are looking very practical and better looking than the instructions suggested. J-Guy

I love my Weekender! It is indeed fun, stable and dry. Hoping this season to get a better video than this one from my iPhone.

J-Guy, Here are photos of the gooseneck and masthead fittings.

Who fabricated that for you?

Mark, I fabricated those myself. I was project manager in a shipyard while building HUMMINGBIRD and most of the parts I needed for them came out of the scrap bin. I fit and weld aluminum and steel.

When trailing: a) Does one unship the bowsprit so as not to need a trailer with a long front tongue? b) Do the spars stow within the length of the deck or overhang? Thanks in advance

I enjoyed the Weekender article, especially because I have built one of these boats. I hope this photo of my boat on the trailer will help answer Simon’s question. Notice I bolted on a short 2 x 10 forward on the trailer to carry the outboard motor, which is easily carried to the transom prior to launch. This way, potholes on the highway don’t bother me so much. The boat sets up quickly for sailing.The trailer is a bit large for the boat. The wider and lower bass-boat-size trailer gives a better towing experience and it all still fits in my garage.

I have built and sailed a Weekender. I sailed it for four years. I have 30 years of sailing experience, and can tell you this design has some very serious flaws, mostly around safety, that I realized as I sailed it. First, it’s not self righting. At all. If you put it over, you are done. It will not pop back up, and becomes almost impossible to right again without help. And even if you get it back up, it cannot be bailed easily. And this assumes having as much flotation installed as you can! Without flotation, it might very well go under. It has no low ballast, which is a problem in many ways. Also, it has a very difficult time coming about. Very, very difficult time. It has to do with the sail plan, the hull shape, and the full length keel. I modified the keel quite a bit after the first year, adding to the center, and reducing it from the front 1/2, and that helped, but it still had a hard time coming about. This boat should only be sailed in very protected waters in 12 knots or less wind. it is easy to build, easy to trailer, and easy to beach, and looks very salty, but it has very poor sailing characteristics. Go to WoodenBoat’s forums and search for the Weekender. I wished I had before I built it!

I’ve made five Weekenders, two Vacationers, and two Skipjacks, and all have very similar hull forms. We have sailed them in a broad range of conditions and locations. They tack fine, they point better than they probably should, and they just work. I’ve never capsized any of them, although I have felt them being overpowered at times and adjusted accordingly by easing off, reefing, or heading back in. There are all sorts of responses to strong wind, depending on the boat and the days.

I’m sorry that John built one of our Weekenders without really understanding what the boat is and what it is not. Like many pocket cruisers, the Weekender is not a ballasted, self-righting boat. Self-righting isn’t a standard that many sailing dinghy, pod-type boats, open sailing skiffs, dories, or other traditional boats meet.

I just fielded a query from a customer a few days ago about whether to add ballast or not to a Skipjack, our 14’ open-cockpit gaff sloop. He had wanted to add 300 lbs of ballast to the keel of a 240-lb boat. The boat’s structure is not designed for this load, and the addition of ballast that close to the hull bottom and not extended away from it on a keel just wouldn’t be that helpful and wouldn’t make the boat self-righting. If someone doesn’t know how to sail an open dinghy, it’s probably not for them.

I’m sorry John had trouble sailing his Weekender, but we think the design sails well, given the limitations of a low-aspect-ratio gaff rig and a modified dory-type hull form. Over the decades, we have had a far more positive letters, emails, and phone calls about these boats than negative. Even the review here reflects this. We are sensitive to the fact that there are people who don’t have a feel for sailing these types of boats, or perhaps haven’t the range or depth of experience to draw from, and might well be frustrated that tacking a Weekender is not like tacking like a Capri 14 or some similar easy-to-sail machine with a centerboard. We have a section in the plans to help with sailing and tacking, and a good amount of discussion in the video as well.

I am truly sorry to hear, and entirely sympathetic with the unhappiness of having spent a lot of time building a boat only to be disappointed by it, but I don’t think that necessarily indicates a failing of the boat design. The Weekender, like the Vacationer and Skipjack, does tack fine, and it is an unballasted boat that is not self-righting. That’s the nature of the beast, and I’m sorry if it didn’t meet the expectations of a different boat.

I don’t think it’s possible to come up with a perfect design which will please and be all things to everyone. We surely don’t want to even hint that our little Weekender is anything like that. It is what it is: a cute, easy-to-build little sailboat with a classic-boat feel.

Mike Stevenson Stevenson Projects

I’ve had one I built for 19 years. I have had a lot of fun with my little boat, and it’s still happily sailing every summer. I sail her pretty enthusiastically, and have not had any problems. My dinghy-sailing training from when I was a kid prepared me for sailing a small, unballasted boat, so I didn’t suffer from any of the misapprehensions some folk seem to when they expect this boat to behave like a large, ballasted, round-bottomed keelboat- even when they ought to know better considering they built it themselves. It’s a fun little dinghy and is just right for camping with the built-in shelter. It can be rowed with oars or propelled by a trolling motor. It’s great for poking around islands and beaches and campsites.

Hi, Could Keith Shergold help me with the placement of the oar lock location and what would be the best oar length for my Weekender sailboat? Where do you think the best spot for the midship cleat would be? I am also building the trailer for my Weekender, so if you know where the axle placement location is best (noted distance from the back of the cabin bulkhead at seat level). Note there is no other builder nearby to help get the spec. from, so I would appreciate any input. I am stuck at the plywood build finish stage, and need to know where to put the backing in so I can get doing the real scary stuff: fiberglassing. I do not have heat in my garage so I have to wait for a dry sunny day with no or light wind, for the right conditions. So one more question: How much epoxy did you need to ‘glass? This is important to know because I live at the Lake, West Cove, Alberta, Canada, and need to go over an hour to the nearest possible supplier. I do not know at this time who is still open.

I bought the plans 20 years ago and have been sailing fiberglass boats since. I bought the revised plans last month and have the means to follow through this time. MEYG will be sailing in 2021 or 2022 out of Fairport Harbor on Lake Erie. “Life is too short to sail an ugly boat.” ~Anonymous. I don’t plan to take her out in a gale, but I think she will be a great boat for a single handed-sailor.

As I have mentioned before, I’ll put in a plug for water ballast. I like the clear poly water “cubes”, with a handle, as they come in different sizes (1 gal. to 5 gal.) and can be shifted easily as needed. One main advantage is that, in case of a capsize, the ballast has neutral buoyancy, and won’t sink the boat. Of course, water ballast won’t provide the righting moment that lead or iron sash weights will, but this safety factor to me is a strong argument.

At the end of the day, just dump the water out. No need to wrestle heavy ballast around once you’re back on shore.

Let me clarify: I’m not saying you shouldn’t build it. But if you are looking for a boat that seats more than three (and three is tight), is a responsive sailor, and you know you might get caught out in winds over 15 mph from time to time, this is not the boat for you. I decided to build this boat because of the way it looked, and its ease of building, and the fact that you use off-the-shelf parts for most of it. I realized afterword that I wanted a better performing boat. I sold it and bought a Montgomery 15, which is a better fit for me. And I will restate, I have a lot of sailing experience, and have sailed many different sizes and types of boats. This was the first I built. It does have problems coming about from time to time. Not always, but in certain wind conditions. At first I thought it was me, then after sailing other boats and coming back, I realized this design has some tacking problems. Is it a deal breaker? No. I would fall off a bit and try again, and could usually get through the second time. Pros: Easy to build esp. for beginners Easy to launch and trailer with pulpit design Can be beached Looks very salty Cons: Not self-righting or self-bailing Not a performance sailor Keep in protected waters Sail in winds under 12 knots (15 mph) unless you are an experienced sailor and have experienced crew

Here’s the Woodenboat Forum link . Lots of discussion here, and other folks with more experience than me. Same conclusions. Many defenders and detractors. I’m just stating my experience, and wish no ill will. It is easy to build, it looks great, and if you are looking for a boat to get out on a Saturday afternoon in protected waters, this is a great choice. It’s sailing characteristics are okay to good.

Thanks, John!

I appreciate your honest assessments and comments. It’s nice to have balanced forums and genuine information for people to learn from.

Mike Stevenson Projects

John, We have had one occasion in which an odd wind shear hit us during a tack and we rolled far enough to scoop water with the cockpit coamings. My wife got pretty wet. I let go the main sheet and she righted immediately. I have found the two batteries in the fore-peak do add a bit to her righting ability.

Hi Ken, I saw your sailboat pictures. Your side deck and cabin top had round wooden spools. Being new to sailboat building for myself and having none in the area, I was wondering are they fixed turning posts, ratcheting posts, or winches? And what are their designed uses? Your boat looks really nice in the pictures. Just viewing them is enough to make me want to finish my Weekender. Thanks

Gerald, They are actually bronze winches I salvaged from a boat we cut up in the shipyard I used to work at. The side-deck winches I use rarely except to tie things off. The cabin top winch I use to raise the main. It adds a bit more purchase.

Sorry to hear John had such an unpleasant experience with his Weekender.

I built one over the course of 7 years, making only one change to the plans … two 10″ x 18″ lexan panels on either side of the keel just forward of the storage box in the cabin giving me a “glass bottom” sailboat ! Helps the fishing and scalloping a great deal as our area ( Old Homosassa, Fl. 65 miles North of Tampa on the Gulf Coast ) has very ” skinny water”. That is anywhere from 24″ to 48″ unless one is in the river channels or the Gulf. HEART SONG has proven to be a very good sailor even in 20+ knot wind and seas in the Gulf. As always, the performance of a boat is generally equal to the performance of the crew.

As for self righting and being hard to tack ….. first of all … DO NOT cleat off or sit on the mainsheet ! If you get the lee rail in the water let the main out ! As for tacking … you will need to build up some good headway, then put the helm hard over in one quick motion (don’t be timid here). If in light airs it helps to backwind the jib, easily done with a club-foot jib.

What really helps here is to have some multi-hull sailing experience as the Weekender sails more like a “Multi” than a “Mono.” As for not being self-righting and difficult to tack, well the same can be said for one of the most popular afternoon sailboats ever built with over a million sailing worldwide. A design that has introduced thousand to the wonderful world of sailing. It’s called a HOBIE CAT. Our WEEKENDERS are in good company indeed !

Oh man, pictures please!

My wife and I had one of these in 1986 and sailed it on many lakes in Alaska. It was surprising how well it sailed. We were on Lake Louise one time and it was really blowing, we were getting pushed to the other side of the lake and we were getting concerned. I could not get the boat to come about, I finally insisted my wife raise the job and voila we came about and back to the dock. On another trip to Harding Lake we ended up racing a pretty modern ‘glass boat, I had the rail down in the water and water 1/2 way up the on the portholes, we ended up passing the other boat and we were hooked.

Great work! I just finished mine, have had a chance to sail it twice and am lovin’ it. I miss the build though – really enjoyed the process.

I was so excited to find a recent AND positive review on S.P. boats. My Pocket Cruiser is almost done and I am very happy with it. I made a few modifications, but overall it is great. Once I understood the type of boat it is and its positive attributes, it was perfect for my purposes. I am glad to see so many happy reviews. I’ve been planning to put an 86-lb trolling motor on it; I was so excited that a 55 -pounder does the trick.

Hello, Dennis,

I look forward to seeing your P.C. when you get it launched! I have a soft spot for that boat, as I did most of the design work on that one. It has a very different feel from the dory-type hulls: The beamier cat-boat-inspired hull is really mellow and relaxing! Peter and I were once sailing the prototype in shallow water and didn’t realize we’d caught one of the lee-boards in the mud! We were happily talking away, just enjoying the gentle slap of the water and the light breeze, and then one of us said “Hey! I don’t think we’re moving anymore!” We laughed and pulled the board up and jibed around out of the shoal, but it really was a funny, mellow moment! I hope you have great fun with yours! Mike Stevenson Projects

Are those the battery boxes I see in the forepeak? I suppose it would make sense to try to balance out the weight of two adults in the cockpit.

I know in our Weekenders, we put the batteries up forward. The boat likes a bit of weight up forward to balance things, as you noted. I hate the longer wire runs, but larger gauge wires and 24v motors help minimize the losses. Mike Stevenson Projects

Yes, those are the battery boxes. My thinking, in addition to what has already been mentioned, was that the extra weight at the base of the mast would help work against the leverage in those moments when you may have held the main sheet a little too long and to tight. As I mentioned earlier, it has proven to pull her back in tight circumstances.

I recognize a lot of the names posting, and give you my support. I am building a Vacationer, a few hours a day, and am within a few weeks of painting the hull. The amount of time it takes to build depends on the level of finish on the boat. I am looking forward to being able to sail mine.

I’ve been sailing my Weekender for ten years now and have made many modifications to it. I wouldn’t change the basic boat at all now that I have a fairly good idea about how to sail it. I thought about ballast, but no way. I have done a capsize test with my Weekender and can tell you that mine pops right up with a little push on the keel. I’ve got a ton of floatation in mine and she floated pretty high when I took her over. I have also found that she will sail pretty well on her side if I don’t get nervous.

I crossed the Straits of Mackinac in twenty knots of breeze with no drama at all. I typically sail in winds in the high teens gusting well over 20 with the only downside being my old hands get tired. After ten years of learning to sail, she has never gone over on me and unless I have a stroke at the tiller I doubt that she ever will.

All around, best boat I can imagine.

Al, I can’t tell you how much my father would have loved to read your note. He was always very personally affected by letters and emails and photos our builders sent in, which makes sense: A big part of why he designed things was to create fun for people. The original books he wrote about wooden toys came about because he just wanted to make some toys for me. That started a legacy of projects which just keeps going, and I’m very proud and thankful to be a part of it and to keep it rolling along!

I love your adventurous sailing nature! Thank you so much for sharing your fun and spirit with us all!

Mike, DUCKIE is my first boat build and even after building a number of wooden boats, she is still my ideal. What I mean about best all around boat is that she is by far the easiest boat to live with for this old man. I can manhandle her on her trailer, pull her with a Toyota Corolla, and handle all the wind I care to go out in. Set up and take down are the easiest that I have experienced, except for all the attention she gets at the ramp. Well, she did win her class at the Port Aransas show, so there’s that. She takes off like a scalded cat after a tack, which really turns my crank. She is way faster than most think she should be. On occasion, I have seriously perturbed skippers on bigger, supposedly faster boats by passing them and then waiting for them, good times. Describing her as a dirt bike on water is pretty apt. Her light-air ability is the best in my fleet. I could go on all day. Bottom line, learn how to sail a gaffer and take advantage of a sharp chine, and most will understand what I’m saying.

Al, I hear ya!! (and not just creator-bias: I have felt that kick in the pants when one tacks and Off We GO!)

All the best, and stay safe up thataway!

Very much enjoyed the article and all the discussions. She is a handsome little boat that I am sure is quite pleasurable to sail. I have a gaff-rigged Eastport pinky ketch and a Sedgwick Sailing peapod that I designed, based on the Washington County peapod shown in Chapelle’s book. She is 13’ 6”, reduced from 15’ 3” with a long straight keel. She tracks like she is on rails and accelerated rapidly. In response to the various comments regarding tacking, I have found that technique is key. Head up very slowly and just before you come up into the wind, kick the tiller over and voila! Never fails. There is no doubt you can have as much fun with a small boat as a big one. I’ve had a blast sailing with the Small Reach Regatta in Maine for the past few years. The Weekender would be a welcome participant. I always look forward to the monthly submissions. Thanks for sharing.

Yep, that sounds like great fun! I’d love to join you one of these years, if the Fates allow. I very much agree with you (not surprisingly!): The lightweight gaffer is a Fun Machine, and one only has to look at the shots of the sandbaggers of decades past to see the seriously-exciting-looking fun they seem to have been having!

All the best from the West Coast — Stay safe, all!

Great project! I fell in love with it as soon as I saw it. We should thank Peter for his talent for combining simplicity, reasonable seaworthiness, and beauty. I’ve already finished building my boat and I’m looking forward to going on a serious voyage.

I built my Weekender back in 2000 and completed her around 2005. Loved the building process and sailing her. I was truly amazed at just how well she handles and tracts. The gaff sail rig truly maximizes the sail area. Looking forward to building another one some day. And Mike, when I do I’ll order another set of plans from you. Great boat!

Beautiful workmanship! I especially love the character of the shipyard-leftovers and self-fabricated parts! How well suited would you say the sailing is to the area? Any modifications you’d make if you got to start all over again (besides the very sensible lights, headroom, etc. that you mentioned in the article)? I’m looking to build my first boat soon and I think I’m on the same water as you, Ken. Would definitely look forward to building a Weekender!

As a avid carpenter I am surprised at the absence of glassing after so much work into such a beautiful craft – I am envisioning a whole lot of screw joints coming ” disjointed ” as they eventually become wet and damp – What would be the offset to elevating the cabin roof another foot? Even at 2021-22 prices would anyone want a stiffer (rot-resistant) stem when putting this sprite under the stress of beaching, trailering, or keeling in a 25-knot wind? And ad yuears to her life? Well worth the mahogany or joined oak that she deserves. Comments welcome, especially those that have plied this beaut 10 years or better.

I have sailed my Weekender for over ten years now and can vouch for the toughness of the boat in all regards. I once sailed her up the rough concrete landing at a marina under full sail in twenty knots with no damage at all. I had a plastic shoe on the keel, but it was only scratched a bit. There was an avid crowd of witnesses at the time, and they were shocked to see me laughing and shoving her back in the water. If the landing is crowded, I always beach the boat out of the way to wait my turn, and over the years, my boat is like new. My keel is made of ACX 3/4 inch plywood which has stayed straight and un-degraded.

I glassed the entire outside, but left the interior for paint. I painted the interior very carefully to ensure that it would stand up to a dunking. As long as water doesn’t stand around inside she is okay.

I also added two inches to the height of the cabin, and I don’t think I would add more because I don’t want to ruin the look of the boat. I have noticed that the designers once built a Weekender with a pop up, or removable top. Not the worst idea if sitting upright is important. If I am going to spend any time in the cabin, I simply pile all my junk against the forward bulkhead and recline against that. I have also learned the drawbacks of too much windage, which the cabin is the primary culprit therein. You will notice it.

I`ve read this article about the Weekender Sailboat now twice. This is a very good description about the Weekender and I can really agree in all Points. I built one and yes it’s a joy to sail. I also raise the cabin height double than the original. It’s much comfortable. There is one Thing where I’m not so happy. The foredeck is drawn flat and the water can not flow overboard. Unfortunately I recognized it too late. In that time I was not so experienced in boatbuilding. Another thing was hard to learn the imperial measurements.

I present my Building Story on the Stevenson website. I hope you can enjoy

So thank you for this nice article to read.

With Kind regards from Germany!

Michael Beckmann

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Skipjack Model Kit

Description

Famous in the Chesapeake Bay area, these were the working oyster/crabbing boats that are so pretty to behold. This model features laser-precision cut parts, and is made from birch and balsa. Thorough plans and instructions, plus all the hardware needed, as well as sails and display stand. There is no running hardware, as this is a static model. Tools (very basic) and paint are not included.

LOA: 15" Beam: 4 3/4" Mast: 14"

Skill Level = 2

Skill levels are: 1 = beginner 2 = intermediate 3 = advanced

You'll supply paint, and simple household tools:

Razor / X-acto knife, ruler, wood glue, super glue, Course, Medium, and Fine grit sandpaper, 1/4" and 1/2" paint brush, 3/4" masking tape, drill bits 1/32" --> 1/4", clothes pins. 

Customer Reviews

The backbone piece made out of balsa is too flimsy and didn’t stay straight. This was a problem when mounting the deck . Also It it broke by the bowsprit as a result of a minor bump.

Made in the U.S.A. With excellent And detailed instructions in understandable English. Well made. I’m a newbie to model building but enjoying constructing it.

A great way to spend your time during COVID 19 quarantine. The model comes with great instructions and the final product is a beautiful replica of My favorite sailboat architecture.

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Skipjack Fishing Boat Model

This is a special FULLY ASSEMBLED replica of the Skipjack, a traditional fishing boat used on Chesapeake Bay for oyster dredging. It is a sailboat which succeeded the Bugeye as the chief oyster boat on the bay, and remains in service due to laws restricting the use of powerboats in the Maryland state oyster fishery. Master craftsmen using historical photographs, drawings or original plans meticulously handcraft these highly detailed wood models from scratch. They are built to scale with high-grade wood such as: western red cedar, rosewood, and mahogany. They are 100% hand built individually using plank-on-frame construction method and are similar to the building of actual ships. Each model requires hundreds of hours to finish and must go through a demanding quality control process before leaving the workshop. The Skipjack models amazing details include: beautiful hand-stitched sails, finest wood deck planking, detailed rigging, chrome and brass fittings and ornaments.

This model comes standard with a solid wood base and brass nameplate. It’ll make a perfect gift for home or office decorator, boat enthusiast or passionate collector.

29.0L x 6.0W x 31.0H

The Skipjack apparently first appeared on the Lower Eastern Shore of Maryland in the late 1800s. Its development was precipitated by the decline in oyster harvests, and the need for an inexpensive shallow draft vessel. The design hasnt changed in over 150 years, and the average Skipjack has now lasted well over three-quarters of a century, a tribute to their excellent construction. Skipjacks carry a sail design known as the "Leg-O-Mutton" Sloop Rig consisting of a main sail and a jib. The standard design formula calls for a mast height which is the same the as length of the vessel on deck, plus the width of the beam. According to legend, no Skipjack was ever built from a formal set of plans, but rather by "rack of the eye". They were developed from the lines of the Chesapeake Bay Log Canoe, the Brogan, and the famous Clipper Ships. They are unique to the Eastern Shore of Maryland and Virginia, and the few remaining skipjacks still dredge oysters under sail during the fall and winter oyster season on the Chesapeake Bay

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