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Robbe ship models at Krick


The ship model division of Robbe Modellsport has been owned by Krick Modelltechnik since summer 2015. The former Robbe products will be marketed from 2016 under the brand "romarin by krick". We have taken over almost all the designs and forms around ship model construction and we will endeavor to re-launch the attractive ship models and the important accessories from the Robbe range and thus make the ship model construction even more lively. Starting with the important starter models Katja and Dolly, over the fast motoryachts like the Najade, up to the Feuerl�schboot Dusseldorf or Hochweeschler Happy Hunter we want to expand the program step by step. And especially the important accessories will not be missing. Certainly, this will take some time, since Robbe's inventory could be reduced to little. We are constantly updating articles. A regular visit to our homepage in the "New articles" section is therefore worthwhile.

Roxxy BL-Motor Inrunner 3656/06 1800KV Item no.: ro4786 Availability: (Delivery time: Available again soon ) ROMARIN This item notice Article is noted 77,00 EUR incl. VAT and excl. shipping

AMATI Katalog Bausätze und Werkzeuge 2024

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robbe rc yacht

Swell RC

Robbe Model Boats: A Comprehensive Guide for Enthusiasts

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  • By - Kyle Hilson
  • Posted on November 14, 2023 November 15, 2023
  • Posted in RC Boats

Robbe Model Boats: A Comprehensive Guide

Model boats have long been a source of fascination and enjoyment for hobbyists and enthusiasts alike. Building your own model boat allows you to express your creativity and passion for the sea and marine life. One of the most respected and well-known brands in the world of model boats is Robbe. The German manufacturer has been producing model boats since the 1950s, and today offers a wide range of high-quality kits and pre-built models that are designed to provide enthusiasts with an immersive experience. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore the world of Robbe model boats and discover what sets them apart from other brands. From the history and overview of Robbe to the design and construction of their models, and the process of building your own, we will cover it all. If you’re interested in learning more about model boats and Robbe, then read on.

History and Overview of Robbe Model Boats

Robbe is a German brand that has been in the model boat business for over half a century. The company’s focus has always been on producing high-quality and detailed models that capture the intricacies and elegance of real boats. Robbe prides itself on using the latest technology and high-quality materials to ensure that every model is of the highest standard. Here are some key points about the history and overview of Robbe :

  • Founded in 1958 in Wangen im Allgäu, Germany
  • Initially produced remote-controlled model aircraft before shifting focus to model boats
  • Known for their attention to detail and accuracy in scale
  • Offer a range of models including warships, yachts, and speedboats
  • Have both pre-built models and kits available

Robbe’s commitment to detail and design has earned them a reputation as one of the top model boat manufacturers in the world. Their products are popular with both beginners and advanced enthusiasts, and their range of models is diverse enough to cater to a variety of tastes and interests. If you’re looking to purchase a Robbe model boat, there are many online retailers and hobby shops that carry their products. Some of the most well-known online stores include Modelers Central , Cornwall Model Boats, and Amazon.

‘What makes Robbe model boats popular among beginners and advanced enthusiasts’?

Robbe model boats are incredibly popular among beginners and advanced enthusiasts due to their exceptional build quality, attention to detail, and realistic design. These boats are crafted from high-quality materials, including durable wooden parts and powerful motor systems, making them reliable and long-lasting. Robbe offers a wide range of models to cater to different interests and skill levels, from simple and easy-to-use designs for beginners to complex and challenging models for advanced enthusiasts. Their boats also feature highly detailed and accurate replicas of real-life naval vessels, such as merchant ships, warships, and racing boats, making them incredibly attractive and interesting to collectors and model enthusiasts. With a Robbe model boat, you can experience the thrill of sailing and racing in miniature form and enjoy hours of fun and entertainment on the water. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced model boat enthusiast, a Robbe model boat is sure to deliver a realistic and satisfying sailing experience.

Robbe model boats are known for their exceptional design and construction. The company uses high-quality materials and the latest technology to ensure that every model is of the highest standard. Here are some key points about the design and construction of Robbe :

  • The models are designed and built with a high level of accuracy in scale
  • Robbe ‘s models are made from durable materials such as fiberglass , wood , and polystyrene
  • Robbe offers both static models and radio-controlled models for those who want to take their boats out on the water
  • The level of detail in each model is astounding, with intricate parts such as deck fittings, rigging, and sails carefully replicated to create a realistic look
  • Robbe ‘s models come with clear and concise assembly instructions to make the building process as straightforward as possible

Interestingly, Robbe ‘s reputation for producing high-quality models has even extended to Hollywood. Their 1:200 scale model of the Titanic was used in the famous movie of the same name, and their models have also been featured in other movies and television shows. If you’re interested in purchasing a Robbe model boat , their website is a great resource to find out more about the company and their products. They also have a range of instructional videos available on their YouTube channel to help you with the building process.

Here is a table that shows some of Robbe ‘s popular models:

What are some popular models offered by Robbe?

Robbe is well-known for manufacturing high-quality and innovative models. They offer a wide range of models for various purposes. Let’s take a look at some of the popular models offered by Robbe.

For the avid drone enthusiasts, Robbe offers the “Nanodroid” and “NanoQuad” models. These models are designed for indoor flying and racing, and boast excellent maneuverability and durability. For the more experienced drone pilots, Robbe offers the “V-Power” and “Horizon” models, both of which are equipped with advanced GPS technology and other features, making them ideal for aerial surveying, mapping, and even cinematography.

In addition to drones, Robbe also offers scale models of popular military and civilian aircraft, tanks, ships, and even trains. The “U-Boat” submarine is a particularly popular model, known for its accuracy and attention to detail. And for those who prefer model cars, Robbe has a variety of race cars, classic cars, and even off-road vehicles to choose from.

Overall, Robbe’s models are well-crafted and designed with the hobbyist in mind. Whether you’re a seasoned enthusiast or just starting out, there is sure to be a Robbe model that suits your interests and needs. So, take a closer look and see what Robbe has to offer!

Should You Invest in a Robbe Model Boat?

If you’re considering investing in a model boat, a Robbe model is an excellent choice. The company’s attention to detail and use of high-quality materials ensure that every model is of exceptional quality. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced builder, Robbe offers a range of options to suit your needs. You can choose to build your own model boat from a kit or purchase a pre-built model for display.

In terms of price, Robbe models are generally priced in the mid to high range, reflecting their quality. However, the investment is worth it if you’re looking for a model that looks and feels like the real thing. Plus, these models are durable and built to last, making them a sound investment.

Another benefit of investing in a Robbe model boat is that they hold their value well over time. If you’re looking to sell your model boat in the future, you can expect to receive a good price due to the high demand for this brand.

In conclusion, investing in a Robbe model boat is a wise choice for any model boat enthusiast. With their exceptional quality, attention to detail, and range of options, you’re sure to find a model that suits your needs and preferences. So why not take the plunge and add a Robbe model boat to your collection today?

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Atlantis by Thistle17 - FINISHED - Robbe

  • model no 1130


By Thistle17 January 18, 2017 in RC Kits & Scratch building

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I have a client that wishes her late husband's Atlantis R/C model be completed as a static model. Parts are missing and I have just learned Krick has bought out the Robbe business. Can anyone shed light on Krick's intentions to re-release the models and parts?

Alternately, anyone out there have a kit or partial kit for sale?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Help from anyone out here! Has anyone had any success contacting Krick Models in Germany? They just don't seem to respond to any of my queries.


  • 3 weeks later...

I finally heard from Krick and they do have some spare parts. The masts are available but it proves to be a shipping problem due to their length. I have appealed to Ages of Sail to see if I can piggy back one of their ship ments.

  • Canute and mtaylor

I have taken possession of the partially completed model (as of this post) and will begin a more detailed inventory of parts on hand and what is missing. Hopefully Krick Manufacturing will come through on the masts and we will see what else shakes out from their inventory as I progress. This thread will be periodically updated with progress.

The boat model is 54 inches long at the deck level and 13 3/8 inches of beam. The masted height will be approximately 64 inches. The hull is of high impact molded plastic. The keel is weighted with what appears to be lead. At this stage the model weighs about 45 lbs! Of note on closer inspection it has no transom I will finish it off in mahogany most likely. The deck is partially planked and although there is some extra deck material it is not sufficient. Also some of the deck planking has lifted as the adhesive used has dried up. I am planning a strip down of the deck planking and I will begin anew.

Below is a picture of the model as is. I have mounted it on a shop cart as it will necessarily have to be moved around due to it size and work access. The second picture is where I am headed. My client wishes the model to remain static so although there are some RC controls on board they will remain inactive.

(Those dangling ball and claw legs in the background are for a distant project).


  • VACorsair , tasmanian , mtaylor and 2 others

After 3 1/2 hours of "prying" deck planks up the hull is now ready for re-planking. Some planks were lifted with a finger nail, others came up with a sharp chisel and prying. The deck was sanded down with 120 grit sand paper to flatten the residual glue/wood. I believe CA glue was used but why it didn't work over the entire deck is somewhat mysterious. The original deck planks appear to have been pine. They came as an accessory package. They are 5 X 1.5 mm and 10 inches long.  I am going to use some other material that is more dense and of the patina of boxwood. Oddly the directions do not suggest sealing the final deck surface, rather applying wax is recommended. That doesn't sound at all right to me for a RC model.

I read on another web site that the total cost of this vessel if fully outfitted could cost as much as $1800. The base kit was $700 at the time (circa 2012) and "accessories" were priced in the $90 and up range. The wood deck kit for example was $90! I feel it was a crazy way to market this kit. One would get 'sucked in' to a big expense if they were not paying attention,

Here is a view of the completely stripped down hull. The plastic units atop the hull are actually building forms that the cabin and hatch materials are fastened to. The smoke plastic becomes windows when the outer skin is applied.

I am slowly getting through the inventory of parts supplied by the owner. Many of the deck fittings I find are missing. I will spend a good deal of time tracking down reasonable substitues for this 1:20 scale model. For example there are 28 stanchions, ships wheel, life boat, air vents and more missing.


I have decided that the deck should be re-planked with mahogany or a combination of mahogany and a lighter wood such as box wood. I think since most of the deck furniture is mahogany this will blend well.  I'd like to try the Alaskan Cedar but it is a tad too yellow I think. Since one of my last posts I came across someone who had trouble gluing down planking with CA glue on ABS plastic. It was commented that the bond doesn't hold up. That is likely why I could lift some planks with a finger nail. I am tempted to try the new DAP "Rapid Fuse" 30 second adhesive. I will have to experiment before I commit to this method.

While waiting for the planking material I have moved onto the deck furniture. It is all die cut ply. The curious thing about the parts sheets is that not all of the required parts are on the undisturbed sheets. Not to be outdone, the "plans" do not call them out either. The instruction book is of little help as well. I guess I have been spoiled by the current generation of plans and instructions from our US companies. They are relatively simple structures so I do not anticipate issues.

I do perceive a challenge with the bulkwarks as they are missing. I plan to fashion them out of styrene pieces. The challenge is they have a fancy upper edge molding and a lower edge one a well that sits in the rabbett at the sheer line as seen in the picture above.

In applying the decking (wood) to the hull surface I asked DAP about Rapid Fuse General Purpose adhesive bonding integrity. The return stated that Rapid Fuse General Purpose will adequately bond wood to ABS plastic. I further asked about the bonding property of Styrene and ABS. The answer was that the bond was inadequate. This pretty much removes the plan to make the bulkwarks out of Styrene.

I have been decking this large model in boxwood and mahogany as disclosed earlier. This DAP Rapid Fuse adhesive is growing on me. Small amounts applied to the decking and held for 30 seconds (cure in 30 min) works well. As a matter of fact the adhesive quickly becomes tacky when the planks are laid down. To continue the case for this adhesive, one can lift and reposition the planking, if misaligned, soon after it is laid. No further adhesive is required. If it gets on the topside of the plank it does sand. Otherwise it behaves as CA does  especially on one's skin.

  • 5 weeks later...

I have run into a problem with the boxwood planking made from purchased sheet goods. I ordered 3/64" (.047) sheet material and ripped the planking. To simulate the original material that came with the Atlantis I cut the 24 inch planks in half. As I began laying the planks I noticed significant variation in thickness of the planks across the 12" length. At first I thought is was the roughness of the ABS hull after I had sanded it down. I finally measured the plank thickness end to end and found as much as 10 thousands variation. I have learned that the vendor does try to control its variation =/- .005. I have been working with the vendor to try and correct this problem.

I now will measure all stock upon receipt and will be the wiser for doing so. The vendor is sending on a new batch of sheet stock for which I am grateful. In the meantime I have a good deal of sanding ahead of me.

  • mtaylor and maaaslo


Been there, done that with the wood supply.  I now mik the wood and run it through a thicknesser before using.  A PITA but it pays off in the long run.

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                              Past Builds:   La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans  - ON HOLD            Tri ton Cross-Section    

  NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                             HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64                

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                           On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                      Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0  (Abandoned)           


  • 1 month later...

Well after more hours than I care to add up I finished sanding  the deck planking. As I mentioned earlier I foolishly laid planking without checking its thickness over length uniformity and as a result had quite a time of leveling the planking especially on the starboard side (that is where I got a bit wiser). In addition to material problems I ran into 2 other problems with the hull. The first is I discovered that the hull 'half's' port and starboard were slightly different. This in combination with plank over plank placement/tolerance build up became a real challenge to give a completely matched deck pattern along the center line of the hull. It came out relatively well but there was a price to pay doing so with a combination of pattern making to nicely fit the planks. Secondly the hull deck (substrate) was slighltly concave just forward of the mid cabin on the starboard side. I managed to get most of it out but there is still a slight depression to my touch.

I am now faced with a dilemma with simulated deck plank length. The material used in planking was 12" long so there are a number of butt ends at non uniform places along the beam. Most modelers I have seen on line ignored how a real boat is built and so paid no attention to where the deck beams might have been. The end result was the planking on other models looks like a herring bone pattern. I am working to scribe in some simulated planks obeying some semblance of uniformity. I have included a picture of results to date. Hard to see the plank ends though.


  • hexnut , Robin Lous , Seventynet and 2 others

Patrick Matthews

Patrick Matthews

Sorry to come to this party late!

But a couple links:

Taylor Sparks' build of Atlantis:  http://sparksstudios.com/boatyard/atlantis.htm   and some others too.

My build of the Robbe Valdivia (with many similar construction features):  https://matthewsmodelmarine.wordpress.com/writings/robbes-valdivia-rc-schooner/

Hopefully you have the complete Robbe instruction set? Used to be available online... I have an e-copy for Valdivia, maybe Taylor has Atlantis.

The hull should be vac-formed ABS (not injection molded styrene).

Valdivia's decking is real teak, with some mahogany trim. The teak planks are a bit overscale in the grain department, but are soft enough to bend sideways. 

Gluing with CA is the plan, but have plenty of CA "kicker" on hand, as the CA is stubborn about setting on the porous wood.

Not sure what was specified for Atlantis, but on Valdivia there were white plastic strips to use as caulking, and instructions on proper joggling and plank-end staggering.

A scraper was the best way to smooth out planks and caulking; avoid sanding, as even light sanding can soften the plastic and drive its dust into the wood grain.

BTW, I waxed my wood deck, never had a problem after sailing. Real boats get wet, no? 


  • mtaylor , tasmanian and hexnut

Matthews Model Marine

Model FUNCTION as well as FORM.

Get your boats wet!

Pat I had seen your planking photo on line before. Splendid execution and results. The Atlantis doesn't have teak as best I can tell. It is more like weathered pine and of poor quality. The ends of the planks look like they were chopped and poorly so. I scrapped the material and used box wood and mahogany. I will be putting up the results shortly

 The client apparently lost the bulwarks pieces so I am fabricating them at this very moment. I am using straight grain maple milled to fit the rabbet on the hull and adding a basswood height extension as my maple material was only 3/4". The basswood will also allow me to add a mahogany cap rail to this improvisation when all is said and done. This would have been infinitely easier had the parts been available. I have contacted Krick in Germany who bought out Robbe and they have indicated they will be sending the masts in a shipment to Ages of Sail and then onto me. I hope!!!!!!

Luckily I have the instruction manual and drawings. The drawings are not to scale so I am having to apply some relative size approximation for sizes and adjust for parts I can find on line. The bulkwarks and stanchions are a good example of this.

And thank you for the link to your build. It will help.


  • mtaylor and hexnut

ABS is a tough material to glue to, and I'm always leary about things like polyester and epoxy resins' adherence as well. Maybe less of an issue for a display model, but the ABS hull can flex and pop these things loose.

If the defects aren't deep, I'd start with regular or 2-part primer filler as the first coat, then use the appropriate glazing compound to take care of what's left.

But yes- clean, most any primer, and most any top coat.

For gluing: Robbe recommends the 2-part methacrylate adhesive "Stabilit Express"- expensive and hard to find in the US. For joints requiring a wee bit of flex (anything attached to the ABS hull), I find that rubberized CA (aka "tire cement") is perfect. It has a bit of flex, so it won't crack like regular CA; it can be built up in thick layers (use CA kicker to help it cure), yet cures hard enough to grind or sand. I use it when mounting bow thruster tubes through fiberglass or ABS hulls, for example.  

Pat as you observe ABS is a difficult material to adhere to. In terms of glue, I did find that the DAP Rapid Fuse, General Purpose worked well. I used it on the decking and even though the deck does flex the material has stayed put. I had to replace some decking due to thickness problems and the only thing that excavated the plank was a sharp chisel and carefully carving it out.This will be a static model so water, temperature swings and UV will not be problematical. I am curious about the rubberized CA though. Can you direct me to a manufacturer and identity?

In regard to painting, I am about to test paint the rudder so I will feedback the results.

Most any RC hobby shop will carry this or similar:


The image shows the thick stuff building a fillet on a Robbe Happy Hunter kort assembly, with ABS hull.


Heard some good news yesterday. Krick came through and shipped masts to Ages of Sail and they will in turn provide them to me. Krick could not ship them directly as European post services do not permit packages of that length in their systems. The masts are 1400 mm long. I can't thank these folks enough for being so supportive!!

Guest Tim I.

Guest Tim I.

Great news!

This has been an incredibly busy summer so working on this model has been almost impossible. However yesterday I managed to sneak in some time and decided to work the bulwarks for this huge model. I am driven by the fact that it has to be painted soon and I do not have a spray booth. Given the size and extent of painting required it has to be done out of doors. The bulwarks need to be applied to the hull pre- painting. The work shown  is related to the scuppers. There are 5 each side. I tried hand fashioning but almost knew before I started I wasn't going to be satisfied with the uniformity of each to its neighbor. Luckily one of our club members loaned me his Sherline vertical mill. This machine has made it a breeze. 

Mounted in the table vise is a block of pine rabbeted to accept the stepped bulwarks. The block elevates the bulwark and enables use of the miniature "quick grip" clamps to clear the mill table. Using a 1/8" router bit I am able to carefully mill the scupper slots to a high degree of uniformity. The bulwarks where the machining is taking place is maple and machining produces a clean cutout in-spite of the slower speed of the mill drive. Prudence dictates multiple passes to cut through the material.

I am sold on a vertical mill and plan to acquire one soon.

Just an aside. This mill is a Model 4000 and does not behave well at slow speed. I believe the brushes are worn and the commutator is dirty. Given its vintage the motor must be disassembled as the brushes are internal. Newer models have brushes external.  I will be fixing this for the club member as a thank you for his loan.


The masts (and booms) arrived yesterday via Ages of Sail from Krick in Germany. These folk were so good about following through with my request. It is heartening to know some people still care about customer support!

  • 2 weeks later...

The second last step to completing the bulkwarks prior to assembly was to enable the fastening system on the model. Six, 2.2 X 6.5 mm flat head screws were provided for each side. Once again using the Sherline mill, 6 clearance holes were drilled and then counter sunk with a larger drill bit to enable "fill in" so as not to show after painting. The mill proved invaluable in this seemingly simple operation as it enabled accurate depth and alignment control of the machining process.


Looks good Joe!

I have started early stages of painting the hull and bulwark area. I was advised that Tamiya spray should work just fine with ABS plastic. I am told it does not need to be primed. Having no experience with Tamiya paints (spray) and/or ABS I am at the mercy of others at the moment. Anyone out there that can confirm or refute that advice I surely like to hear back.

After altogether too much time and effort I have nearly completed the machining, attachment and refining of the bulkwarks to the model. My lament of course is if I had had the original kit supplied bulkwarks this would have been a non event. I guess I needed to vent.

The actual bulkwark mounting was a lesson in humility and frustration. I read somewhere that the kit version probably had some adhesive backed tape to help mount them. Anything I could think of just didn't seem right so I attached them with the supplied screws countersunk and filled (and filled and filled again - I used auto body Nitro Stan glazing compound which has a tendency to shrink). To further secure them to the hull I applied the inboard section with DAP Inst Cure. The bow section fit was tricky and required not only Easy Sand filler but also spot glazing. The inboard port and starboard, at the bow, sections of the bulkwarks were sanded with a thin scraper with sand paper both sides to get a crisp fit at this junction. To facilitate this the forward most mounting screws were backed off just enough to allow the scrapper/sandpaper sanding.

Once mounted it was obvious there was a void where the bulwarks met the molded rabbet of the hull. I simulated the kit molding by applying doll house furniture chair rail(180 thousands). That disguised the void quite well I believe.


  • hexnut , Jack12477 and mtaylor

I have primed and painted one coat of the Rustoleum product for plastics. I wiped the hull down with automotive de-greaser/cleaner and sprayed the primer. After it dried I sanded the surface down with 220 wet paper. I used the de-greaser/cleaner again and applied the paint layer.The good news is that it adheres well and dries to a hard finish. The bad news is that spray cans aren't really a good device to spray any paints. Even though I used what I believe are good application practices I found that the smoothness of the painted hull doesn't muster. I will have to spend some time wet sanding and repeating the process to get close to the results I am expecting. I may even have to rub the final product out and spray an overall clear coat.

I have to mask the waterline and the hull body color area for the final hull finish. I am going to use 3M or equivalent automotive masking tape that leaves little to no evidence of ridges at masked area intersections.

An update on painting. I changed the base color of the hull to a pure white as the Navajo White just didn't strike me as the right hull color. Took extra precaution and wet sanded the hull 220 then 400. Wiped the hull down with auto body degreaser/cleaner with a lint free cloth and used all my (limited) skill in painting. The results were better than expected as there was little over spray. It is a low humidity day so that helped immensly. Onto the two tone hull color and waterline painting the client liked. This northeast weather is not only welcome it is a gift since I do not have a paint booth.


  • hexnut and mtaylor

The painting saga continues. After painting the hull 48 hours earlier (per manufacturer directions) I observed a wrinkle pattern on the starboard side about 4 inches long. At the time I assumed it was surface contamination but that is not proving out. I sanded the area down and applied the overcoat of a royal blue color just above the waterline. Much to my dismay it repeated the same wrinkle marking. I searched the internet and now find this is not uncommon. I went ahead and called Rustoleum Customer Service and they indicated it was not contamination (as I had described my process). Rather they claim it is due to the under coat material, the creamy white, had not dried completely. I explained there was over a week between old and new coatings. That did not change his recommendations. Here was the advice I got:

1. Dry sand the area of concern, 2. Wash down the area with a little dish soap in a water solution, 3. Wash area with water only, 4. Dry it thoroughly. 5. Repaint.

Not too convinced of this but have no other solution as many on line have also lamented. He also added the best way to use this paint is to apply 2 wet coats in close succession so they paint layers fuse together.

An update: I completed Step 1 above and indeed found that the wrinkle did go all the way through the overcoat of white down into the Navajo White coat. So they certainly did have that part correct. I am somewhat hesitant to just plunge ahead and paint without a light prime coat (lessons learned from my youthful days in auto body painting). As I am running out of fair weather I am leaning to follow the manufacturer advice and repaint. My reasoning is that I have now exposed the paint layer that was still uncured so I should have now exposed it to better drying. We will see. Hope this is useful information to others and helps advoid disappointment.

What a disaster! This is probably the last time I use this paint (Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover). It did it again! Per their instructions I sanded it down, washed it with a little dish detergent and water, waited 5 days and reapplied paint on a 74 degree day with low RH. I am now back to Rustoleum Customer Support for answers. What a set back.


Just curious Joe, would rubbing compound fix it?  Is it in the same spot?  I wonder if there's a defect in the hull right there if is as I used to run into that way back when I did model cars.

  • hexnut and Jack12477

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About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

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Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

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Sticky: Organized events.....

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Northern CA boat clubs??

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looking for RC boat club in CT

3 Attachment(s)

  • Replies: 166
  • Views: 25,420

Any NH or VT boaters?

Trying to get in touch with someone from atlanta model boaters, any boaters in saratoga, ny.

  • Views: 2,385
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Campbell CA RC Boating Club

5 Attachment(s)

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August 2024 get ready

1 Attachment(s)

  • Views: 1,679

Charleston, S.C. action

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NJ Boaters??? Central Jersey?

2 Attachment(s)

  • Replies: 78
  • Views: 48,295

Cincinnati Model Boat Club

  • Replies: 10
  • Views: 2,038

Anyone In S.E. WI

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NW Oregon/SW Washington boaters...

  • Replies: 18
  • Views: 12,299

anyone near Olympia WA

mason county, r c boats, shelton, washington state

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Newbie here: any boaters familiar with Kansas City that can give advice?

  • Views: 6,844

Shertz Texas NAMBA site

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Florida Clubs near Boynton Beach or Palm Beach County?

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Eastern Massachusetts?... Reply If Interested!

14 Attachment(s)

  • Replies: 634
  • Views: 122,886
  • Rating4 / 5

Oregon Coast

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WaveBlasters.org Web-site Updated

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Northeast tennessee or southwest virgina?

  • Views: 5,221

Tampa RC Boat Club?

citrus park, tampa

  • Views: 3,446

anybody from Minnesota ???

  • Replies: 39
  • Views: 19,685
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pennsylvania. lake nockamixon

  • Replies: 25
  • Views: 15,420

Austin TX rc boaters??

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Savannah Georgia

  • Views: 5,597

R/C boating back with a vengeance in carolina

  • Views: 9,651

Raleigh, NC area

  • Views: 9,976

Central Wisconsin: Wausau area

central wisconsin, club, wausau area, wisconsin

  • Views: 7,990
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As pioneers of a growing 1:10 Scale electric hydro class, the goal is to continue to duplicate real unlimited hydroplane racing as closely as they can. Since their inception in 1993, they have not only tried to recreate the boats from several eras, but to encourage a spirit of fun, respectful competition and camaraderie within their membership.

If you’d like to find out more about Classic Thunder , what they do, how to get involved or if you simply have questions, feel free to contact them .

  • 1/10 Scale Electric DI, DII, and DIII

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Classic Thunder Race #1 – Apple Cup

24025 Bothell Everett Hwy, Bothell, WA 98021

ERCU is a club that was formed in the Seattle area by a dedicated group of individuals who enjoy building and racing models of some of the great and not-so-great unlimited class hydroplanes from the past and present.

In 2003, Electric Radio Controlled Unlimiteds (ERCU) came into existence, as an organization modeled after RCU, and the younger club has quickly become the world’s largest fast electric scale hydroplane club.

Check out their website for the latest club news and sign up for their newsletter to stay informed.

  • 1/10 Scale Electric Vintage, Classic, & Modern
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ERCU Race #1 – Champion Spark Plug Regatta

Wenzel Slough Rd, Elma, WA 98541


Eugene Rc Boats has been around for 29 years racing boats in Eugene, Oregon. They race primarily hydros, monos, and tunnel hulls. Powered by gasoline, nitro and electric engines. They run many classes and will do what they can to fit you and your boat into one of them. They have everything from entry level racers to hardcore experienced boaters. It’s a very friendly atmosphere and members always help one another out. Any one is welcome to come check it out .

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robbe rc yacht

ERCB March Fun Run

Delta North Connect Eugene, OR 97408


More information coming soon.

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During the 1960’s and 70’s, the primary site for radio control boat racing was Green Lake in Seattle. Shortly after the 1973 NAMBA nationals , the city of Seattle changed its policy and no longer allowed any form of boat racing on Green Lake.  At about that same time, the need for fill dirt during I-5 construction north of Marysville created two small lakes that became Gissberg Twin Lakes County Park .

Paul Roth an  Everett RC racer saw this and along with Ed Fisher, Roger Newton and Ron Erickson  checked it as a possible RC race site, liked what they saw and went to Snohomish County and worked out terms for model boat racing. The first race was held in late 1973. Thus began the long history of Northwest Roostertails and RC racing at Twin Lakes.

Over the years with support from Snohomish County, the site has been improved and upgraded. It is a great venue for racing.  They run many classes of boats. If you have one, bring it to an event and they will find a class for you.  Great fun, great friendships and great racing is what Northwest Roostertails is about. Come join in the fun…you’ll be glad you did.

CLASSES : Any class with 2 or more boats at an event.

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District 8 Points Race #3

16324 Twin Lakes Ave, Marysville, WA 98271


The Puget Sound Fast Electric Model Boat Club has been an organized NAMBA club since 1996. They welcome all racers of any age and skill level.  The club prides itself on being a family oriented club.  Longtime members are more than willing to help newer members with boat set up and driving skills.  Their goal is to make fast electric model boat racing a fun experience for everyone.

For more information on their club check out the PSFEMBC website .

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The Puget Sound Model Boat Club(PSMBC) was started in1969 to provide a model boat club for radio control model boat enthusiasts living in the South Sound area.   In 1972, the PSMBC gained access to Lake Waughop at Ft. Steilacoom Park in Lakewood when the State of Washington leased what had previously been a farm tended by residents of Western State Hospital to Pierce County. Radio controlled model boat racing was the first organized activity in Ft. Steilacoom Park. Today Ft. Steilacoom is the largest regional park in Pierce County with baseball and soccer fields, a dog park, a RC flying area, covered shelters, and hiking trails.

The PSMBC hosts 4 District 8 Points races and club races that include the Pumpkin Scrambles in October, Turkey Shoot in November, and Frostbite Follies in December. Members of the PSMBC have won numerous national championships, set records in heat racing, 1/16 mile straightaway, and 2 lap oval.  

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District 8 Points Race #1

Waughop Lake Loop, Lakewood, WA 98498, USA


Founded by Roger Newton in 1974, R/C Unlimiteds is the original, and most highly regarded organization dedicated to 1/8th scale radio controlled unlimited hydroplane racing in the world. RCU races fast electric , and nitro, and gas class boats, each finished in exacting detail to represent the full sized original. The boats are capable of speeds of nearly 60 mph and the racing is serious. They race on ponds all over Washington State throughout each summer, from April through September, culminating in the Gold Cup, raced on Lake Chelan.

For more information and the latest news on RCU check out their website .

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Copyright 2020, NAMBA – District 8. All Rights Reserved. Created by Caines Design .


  1. Robbe Marauder Rc Yacht,Licht und Soundmodul,Restauriert mit neuer Technik,30 Jahre alt, Vorstellung

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  3. 99971: boats & watercraft from pcw 064 showroom, Robbe Marauder

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  5. Robbe Dusseldorf fire boat.

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  1. Robbe Modellsport

    竄ャ10.99*. -13%. Robbe Modellsport Rasant SPEED combustion engine anniversary edition Action SVR with 1:1 reprint of the original plan from the 70s. Product no.: 9785083+9791327. 竄ャ129.99*竄ャ149.99*(13.33% saved) -13%. Robbe Modellsport Rasant SPEED electric anniversary edition Action SVR with 1:1 reprint of the original plan from the ...

  2. Robbe Atlantis R/C Yacht Kit

    Robbe Atlantis R/C Yacht Kit. Rare (especially now that Robbe is out of Business) the Atlantic R/C Model Yacht kit complete with cast iron weight, sails, wood deck planking accessory set, and ships boat with outboard motor. This is an estate find and appears to be complete but I don't know for sure. Looks to me like everything is there and it ...

  3. Robbe RC Boat & Watercraft for sale

    Robbe Police Boat Polizeiboot W-3 No. 1000 RC Ship Model Boat-Nos. $695.00.

  4. Robbe ship models at Krick

    The ship model division of Robbe Modellsport has been owned by Krick Modelltechnik since summer 2015. The former Robbe products will be marketed from 2016 under the brand "romarin by krick". We have taken over almost all the designs and forms around ship model construction and we will endeavor to re-launch the attractive ship models and the ...

  5. Rc Boat Build Yacht Najade Sunseeker Manhattan Robbe Krick TRX6 Boat

    Full Build Video of the Krick/Robbe Najade RC Boat Superyacht. Nice detailed boat with an awesome design. Never did a boat building kit, so learned some new ...

  6. Model Boats Website

    3 years ago by 🇬🇧 G6SWJ. I built one many years ago at about 760 mm in length. It's all made from balsa is easy to build, sails well and fits in the boot of the car fully rigged if I drop one half of the back seats. You should build one yourself, you wont be disappointed. You can contact Bryn by e mail if you're unsure about anything.

  7. Robbe Model Boats: A Comprehensive Guide for Enthusiasts

    Robbe model boats are known for their exceptional design and construction. The company uses high-quality materials and the latest technology to ensure that every model is of the highest standard. Here are some key points about the design and construction of Robbe:. The models are designed and built with a high level of accuracy in scale

  8. Robbe PT 15 Patrol boat review

    RC Scale Boating - Robbe PT 15 Patrol boat review - Ok as i promised when i started i do a review on her . The robbe pt 15 patrol boat kit is i would say a slightly stand off scale patrol boat 1/40 .It is based upon a 1975 japanese torpedo pt boat i bought the kit from westbourne model center in the uk at a price of £1.

  9. Season Opening 2022 with my Robbe Florida 26 RC boat

    Taking the RC Robbe Florida 26 for a ride on a nice winter's day. Together with some other RC enthusiast we where driving in the Rheinaue, Bonn. Testing my n...

  10. vintage rc boat test

    here's a float abd drive test of the old robbe marauder super yacht rc boat.she sails well... this float test also highlighted how high she sits .. definitel...

  11. Atlantis by Thistle17

    RC Kits & Scratch building ; Atlantis by Thistle17 - FINISHED - Robbe Facebook; ... The boat model is 54 inches long at the deck level and 13 3/8 inches of beam. The masted height will be approximately 64 inches. ... Robbe recommends the 2-part methacrylate adhesive "Stabilit Express"- expensive and hard to find in the US. For joints requiring ...

  12. Robbe

    Innovative RC Products Fast Shipping 96 Years of Robbe ... English. Deutsch English Français Airplanes. Batteries. Boats. Brands. Building Accessories & More. RC Electronics. RC Blog. Aircraft Models New Products Electric Gliders Electric gliders, Hotliners Indoor & Slowfly Flugzeuge ... Robbe Modellsport Airplanes Batteries Boats Brands ...

  13. Robbe Hobby RC Model Vehicles & Kits for sale

    Robbe Police Boat Polizeiboot W-3 No. 1000 RC Ship Model Boat-Nos. $695.00. or Best Offer. $59.99 shipping. Dash-7 RC Airplane Vintage Print Ad Wall Art Decor PICA Robbe. $17.99. or Best Offer. Free shipping. SPONSORED. Robbe 1/16 Linde H50 RC Forklift Unused JP New. $1,512.99. or Best Offer. Free shipping.

  14. Rc Boating Club Directory

    Rc Boating Club Directory. If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. To post questions and to view pictures, you will have to register by clicking here register : Important, Please make sure to add [email protected] to your safe senders email list. Otherwise the activation email may go in ...

  15. RC Airplanes and Helicopters, RC Cars and Trucks, RC Boats, RC Radios

    Horizon Hobby is the leader in the RC hobby. We have RC airplanes, RC helicopters, RC Cars, RC trucks, RC boats, RC transmitters, and so much more!

  16. Club Directory

    Use this page to search for a club by Zipcode, by name, or use the links below to find clubs that sail a certain class of boat or are in a given state or AMYA Region... Within. Search by Keyword. Search by Category. Class Region 1 Region 2 Region 3 Region 4 Region 5 Region 6 Region 7.

  17. Clubs

    Eugene Rc Boats has been around for 29 years racing boats in Eugene, Oregon. They race primarily hydros, monos, and tunnel hulls. Powered by gasoline, nitro and electric engines. They run many classes and will do what they can to fit you and your boat into one of them. They have everything from entry level racers to hardcore experienced boaters.