pacific 30 sailboat review

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• Sailboat Guide

Pacific 30 is a 29 ′ 11 ″ / 9.1 m monohull sailboat designed by Raymond Richards and built by J D Marine (CAN) starting in 1962.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Dimensions, in part, from ‘Sailing Craft in Canada’; (1972); by Cliff Newman. Number built is unknown but is thought to exceed 50. Mostly seen in the Pacific Northwest (USA).

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5 Best Liveaboard Bluewater Sailboats

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

December 28, 2023

Liveaboard bluewater sailboats are both comfortable to live on and capable of making long, offshore ocean voyages.

The best liveaboard bluewater sailboats must strike a balance between comfort and seakeeping abilities. These boats are generally heavy and stable and roomy enough to spend time in. They must also include the necessary hardware to make cooking, sleeping, and bathing possible in choppy conditions.

Table of contents

Bluewater Liveaboard Sailboat Design

What makes a good bluewater liveaboard sailboat , and how is it different from a coastal cruiser? There are a few aspects of purpose-built bluewater sailboats that make them different from most production vessels. The first and (possibly) most important is the hull design.

The classic bluewater sailboat hull shape features a long, deep, full keel. The keel acts as a hydroplane and keeps the boat stable on course in all sea conditions. Deep keel sailboats aren't the only kind of bluewater-capable vessels, but they're a tried and tested design.

Other vessels gain stability from having a wide beam. Beamy sailboats are far more comfortable in rolling seas, as they tend to buffett and pitch much less than leaner, narrow boats. Most ideal liveaboard bluewater sailboats balance length and beam carefully to make the most of the space and hull shape.

Space is another important quality to consider when choosing the best bluewater liveaboard sailboat. Interior space comes first, as living quarters are a key element of comfort.

Cockpit space should also be considered, especially if more than one person comes aboard. Most liveaboard bluewater sailboats sacrifice cockpit space for cabin space.

A comfortable liveaboard sailboat should include several amenities, including a head (toilet), a shower, two sinks, a galley with a stove, an icebox, a place to eat, and a place to sleep. Ideally, the dining area is separate from the primary sleeping area.

A separate chart table is ideal as well because it keeps food and clutter away from important navigational equipment. A chart table is less important on liveaboard sailboats that spend the majority of their time docked. That said, the chart table functions well as a spot for a microwave, toaster oven, or TV when you're not underway.

A separate forward V-berth, known as a master cabin, is a big plus on liveaboard boats. Separating the sleeping area from the rest of the cabin can increase comfort and coziness.

However, on a bluewater sailboat, a side berth near the hatch is essential as well. This is because you may need to quickly take control of the vessel after waking up, and it's best to sleep close to the helm.

Power and Water

Power and water shouldn't be overlooked when choosing a bluewater liveaboard. Many liveaboards spend most of their time docked and hooked up to shore power, water, and sewage. But bluewater liveaboards are designed for cruising, which means everything must be self-contained.

The best bluewater sailboats have sufficient freshwater storage tanks for several weeks on the water. Some have desalination (water maker) machines, which require electricity to run.

Solar panels are an excellent option for power generation, and they can be installed on almost any sailboat.

But all bluewater sailboats should have battery banks and a gasoline or diesel generator built into the system. On many vessels, the inboard engine also functions as a generator.

Safety is an essential factor to consider when choosing a cruising sailboat , especially if it doubles as your primary residence. Basic safety equipment such as bilge pumps and radios should be maintained and tested regularly. Backups and spare parts should also be kept aboard.

Other safety features, such as watertight hatches, can keep your cabin safe and dry during inclement weather. Self-draining cockpits are helpful when sailing offshore, as spray and waves drain from the exposed cockpit without the use of electric or mechanical pumps. If the drain ports are kept clean, no bailing is ever necessary.

Radar is another useful safety feature that, while not mandatory, can keep you in-the-know and alert you to the presence of nearby ships. Radar is especially useful at night, as the automatic alarms can wake you whenever a potential obstacle appears nearby.

Bluewater Sailboats for Living Aboard and Cruising

Living aboard a sailboat is one of the most interesting and rewarding lifestyles available today. It's even more alluring when you can sail your vessel across oceans, which is what bluewater sailboats are designed to do.

A liveaboard cruising sailboat combines comfort, seakeeping ability, and ease of handling in a compact and thoughtfully-designed package. Here are the best liveaboard sailboats for bluewater cruising.

1. Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20

{{boat-info="/boats/pacific-seacraft-flicka-20"}}

The Flicka 20 is the smallest and most interesting sailboat on our list. At only 20 feet overall in length, the interior accommodations of this vessel are spartan at best and suitable for minimalist living.

What makes the Flicka 20 stand out is its exceptional bluewater performance. This sailboat is truly an ultracompact pocket cruiser. With a full ballast keel, self-draining cockpit, and wide beam, the Flicka 20 is more capable offshore than some boats almost twice its size.

This sailboat has the profile of a traditional keel cruiser. From a distance, it would be easy to mistake for a much larger vessel. Its hull shape, manageable Bermuda rig, and small size make it a perfect starter sailboat for single handed offshore cruising.

Inside, you have (almost) everything you need to live comfortably, albeit in a minimalist way. The cabin features standing headroom throughout, which is highly unusual for a 20-foot sailboat. On the port side, you're greeted with a small but functional galley. On the starboard side, there's a small head with a toilet and a shower.

The Flicka 20 displaces a hardy 5,500 lbs. Due to its large keel, there's no centerboard trunk to obstruct interior space. A V-berth upfront makes up the sleeping accommodations, and some models feature settees on both sides with a pop-up dining and chart table in between.

The Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20 has achieved somewhat of a cult status amongst bluewater sailboat enthusiasts. Only about 400 were built, so purchasing a Flicka 20 is somewhat of a rare and expensive proposition. That said, the benefits of owning a 20-foot bluewater liveaboard sailboat are hard to beat.

Cheap slip fees, low maintenance costs, and simplicity are the major selling points of this vessel. It's trailerable behind most heavy-duty pickup trucks and technically small enough to store on the street or in a driveway.

2. Pacific Seacraft Allegra 24

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If the Flicka 20 is too small for your taste, try the Pacific Seacraft Allegra 24. It follows the same design principles of the Flicka 20, but with four feet of additional space for cabin amenities and seaworthiness.

Four feet may not sound like a lot, but it makes a world of difference on a sailboat. The additional space on the Allegra 24 adds room to the head, extends the port and starboard settees, and increases the size of the galley.

If you like the idea of a small, semi-trailerable offshore sailboat with liveaboard amenities, you'll love the Allegra 24. This stout sailboat has almost miraculous handling and seakeeping qualities while retaining the benefits of small overall size.

With the Allegra 24, you'll be able to make virtually any offshore passage and save on slip fees, maintenance costs, and overall labor. This vessel is easy to sail single handed and large enough for a minimalistic couple to live, eat, and sleep comfortably.

The Pacific Seacraft Allegra 24 is not ideal for people who need space for pets, children, or guests, as the interior is quite small when compared to other sailboats. That said, there's enough room for an occasional passenger, and the cockpit is comfortable enough for four adults to sit and interact.

3. O'Day 28

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The O'Day 28 is a popular sailboat that makes a great liveaboard cruising platform. This affordable vessel was produced between 1978 and 1986, and over 500 examples were produced over the years.

All in all, the O'Day 28 is a stout cruising sailboat that's suitable for offshore and coastal sailing. It features a raked stern and hidden rudder, and a helm that's similar to what you'd find on much larger boats.

The O'Day has a large fuel tank for its inboard engine and an even larger 25-gallon freshwater capacity, which is excellent for offshore cruising. Additional tanks can be added in storage spaces, making the O'Day 28 suitable for long voyages.

The cabin of the O'Day 28 is spacious and includes everything you'd need to live aboard comfortably, along with plenty of storage space throughout. The wide beam of the O'Day 28 gives it lots of space, so the cabin doesn't feel cramped for its size.

Two models of the O'Day 28 were built; one featured a swing keel, and the other had a fixed swing keel. The swing keel model is ideal for coastal cruising and shallow-water sailing, while the fixed keel O'Day 28 is more suited for bluewater cruising.

That said, both keel variants make fine offshore sailboats. The cabin of the O'Day 28 features a large galley with a stove and icebox, two large settee berths, a large center table ahead, and a V-berth forward. The head serves as a separator to the forward cabin, giving the V-berth an extra layer of privacy.

4. William Atkin "Eric" 32

{{boat-info="/boats/atkin-co-eric-32"}}

"Eric," designed in the 1920s by famous marine architect William Atkin, is a radical departure from typical modern liveaboard sailboats. However, as a bluewater liveaboard sailboat, this vessel likely outshines all the others on this list in almost every conceivable way.

Eric is a 32-foot traditional wooden ketch. This planked full- keel sailboat displaces over 19,000 lbs and has a draft of about five feet. The basic design of the hull is based on early Norweigian fishing boats, which were known for their resilience in rough North Sea storms.

Eric is a traditional gaff-rigged vessel with two short masts and a long bowsprit. Though complex to rig, it sails beautifully in all weather conditions. One of the earliest examples built survived a hurricane offshore in the 1930s, and subsequent models have completed numerous long-range ocean voyages.

Eric is a purpose-built long-range ocean cruiser. Interior accommodations are spacious and designed for comfort and utility. Unlike most sailboats of the time, Eric features a full head with shower, a 'master cabin' style V-berth forward, a full galley with an icebox, and standing headroom throughout.

William Atkin's Eric is, by all definitions, an ocean-crossing sailboat designed to take between one and four adults just about as far as they want to go. It has all the qualities of an oceangoing sailboat in a compact package, along with excellent seakeeping characteristics.

The primary drawback of this 32-foot Atkin sailboat is maintenance. Most of these hulls were constructed using traditional oak planking, which lasts forever if taken care of but requires skilled maintenance. The planks are caulked using cotton wadding, and they'll need recaulking if the boat stays out of the water for too long and "dries up."

If you're looking for a beautiful and historic liveaboard sailboat with serious offshore cruising capabilities, consider an Atkin Eric 32. Although somewhat rare, examples of this design occasionally pop up for sale on the used market.

5. Pearson 35

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The Pearson 35 crosses the rubicon into the 'big boat' category, as it has everything you'd expect of a large oceangoing sailboat. The vessel also has a unique displacement keel with an additional swing keel at the base.

The Pearson 35 is a roomy sailboat with excellent seakeeping abilities and a large sail plan. It's a typical Bermuda-rigged sloop with a tall mast and the usual sheet and halyard arrangement. As a result, it's fun to sail and easy to handle. It's also a fast boat, making it ideal for longer voyages.

The swing keel certainly doesn't make the Pearson 35 a shoal-draft sailboat. It has a modified full keel which (with the swing keel retracted) draws 3 feet 9 inches. With the additional swing keel down, the draft of the Pearson 35 increases to over 7 feet.

The Pearson 35 is a heavy boat with good sea keeping abilities. It was introduced in 1968, and over 500 units were produced. That makes it one of the more popular sailboats in its class, and plenty of Pearson 35s are still sailing around the United States.

Down below in the cabin, the Pearson 35 is roomy and comfortable. It features a full galley, an enclosed head with a shower and sink, and several berthing areas, including a forward V-berth. Plenty of storage is available throughout the cabin, making the Pearson 35 an excellent choice for living aboard.

There's something empowering about piloting a 35-foot sailboat through rough weather. The size of the boat provides both safety and a sense of security, which can help you keep a clear head during stressful situations at sea. The vessel is beamy as well, making it less likely to heel aggressively and increasing roll comfort in dicey seas.

Overall, the Pearson 35 is an excellent choice for a liveaboard bluewater sailboat. It's a large boat in comparison to the others on this list, and it's known for easy handling and excellent windward performance. The Pearson 35 is a common sailboat that's widely available on the used market.

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Review of Pacific 30

Basic specs., sailing characteristics.

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Pacific 30 is 1.52, indicating that this boat could - if evaluated by this formula alone - be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.6 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Pacific 30 is about 122 kg/cm, alternatively 683 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 122 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 683 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section shown boat owner's changes, improvements, etc. Here you might find inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what to look for.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Pacific 30 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

PRICE: A used P-30 can be found for between $5,000 and $19,000, depending on the year of construction, overall condition and amount of upgrades. DESIGN QUALITY: The boat's scimitar-shaped rudder and soft bushings have their detractors, but overall the P-30 stays in the winner's circle, especially its encapsulated hull that has no keel bolts and little maintenance. CONSTRUCTION QUALITY: Born in the days when fiberglass boats were typically overbuilt, the P-30 is no exception. The hull is solid, the deck hardware and standing rigging super strong. USER-FRIENDLINESS: The P-30 has a simple sailplan and easy onboard systems. It requires early reefing. It is easy to handle in a light breeze and a comfortable racer-cruiser despite the annoyance of a long tiller handle. The engine is accessible by lifting the companionway steps, but the oil dipstick is located on the back side and difficult to reach. The boat has a head but no shower. SAFETY: Like most racer-cruisers, it's a compromise design and should be reefed early and often. Upgrades such as a vang or traveler can help tame the relatively long boom. TYPICAL CONDITION: Used P-30s run the gamut from pristine to project boat, but the vast majority offer a solid hull, sound deck and reliable standing rigging. REFITTING: Of all needed improvements, most later owners seem to target the Atomic 4 for replacement by a diesel. This is likely the most expensive undertaking for a refit, followed by attention to the rudder post and to the compression post where the mast steps onto the keel. The latter is mostly labor since a new compression post can be easily fashioned. Since no sewage discharge laws were in effect when the P-30 was made, the head must be updated with a Y-valve and a waste holding tank in most waters. Many owners added a boom vang and a traveler to make sailing in big winds a bit easier. SUPPORT: An active group of P-30 owners can be found online at the Pearson Sailing Association of the Chesapeake Bay at the website www.cbpsa.org. Additional information on the P-30 is available at www.sailboatdata.com and on blogs posted by specific P-30 owners. AVAILABILITY: Plenty of P-30s are available on both the East and West coasts of the U.S., in Florida, Texas, the Great Lakes and Canada. INVESTMENT AND RESALE: Depending the degree of upkeep and overall condition, the P-30 can be a sound investment. Most owners do not consider the P-30 a bluewater boat so its value is limited to coastal cruising.

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Rawson Pilothouse 30

• By Richard Smith
• Updated: July 30, 2012

Ron Rawson built some of the U.S. West Coast’s finest workboats—tough and able gillnetters, long-liners, and others that ply the waters between California and the Gulf of Alaska. When he decided to build sailboats, he wanted to continue the firm’s reputation for building seaworthy small craft and commissioned Pacific Northwest naval architect William Garden to design the Rawson 30. Between 1959 and 1985, he built 288 Rawson 30s, of which 36 were pilothouse models.

Bluff-bowed and rugged, with a long keel encapsulating 5,000 pounds of boiler punchings and concrete, the Rawson 30 was intended strictly for cruising. The hull is hand-laid solid fiberglass, while the deck is of fiberglass and balsa sandwich construction. Its bulwarks, 6 inches high at the bow, are fit for wedging in seaboots whether you’re hauling in salmon or changing headsails when thrashing to windward, and its cockpit is small, as befits a bluewater boat, while still adequate for two. Hardware is robust and simple.

Rawson added the Pilothouse model out of respect for Pacific Northwest weather. An enclosed wheelhouse is a great boon because passagemaking through these island-studded waters, with their narrow channels and swift currents, entails a lot of motoring.

The wheel and navigation instruments are located to starboard under the sloping windshield. There’s a useful table and considerable storage aft of the helmsman’s seat. To port, a comfortable dining table converts to a double berth with storage beneath.

Two steps down, to starboard, is a small in-line galley with sink, icebox, and stove. To port, a 6-foot-6-inch berth tucked under the pilothouse and a diesel heater just forward of it form a sort of inglenook—a cozy space on chilly winter cruises. The full bow provides space for a 6-foot-6-inch double berth with plenty of shoulder room. The small head contains a sink, shower, and storage.

The PH 30 is a masthead sloop with a single-spreader, deck-stepped aluminum mast supported by double lower and single upper shrouds, headstay, and backstay. A compression post is stoutly integrated into the bulkhead below. The mainsheet traveler sits atop the after end of the pilothouse. Early boats had a little too much weather helm; a stocky bowsprit was added to address it.

Rawsons have been powered by a variety of engines. When the dining table is removed, sliding hatches in the pilothouse sole provide good access to the engine and to other mechanical and electrical equipment.

It takes a little breeze to get the PH 30 going, but at 20 to 25 knots, it’s time to put in a reef and roll in a bit of genoa. In these winds the boat at first feels a little tender, but once settled down, its motion is steady. The boat tracks well and rarely takes any water over the bow or into the cockpit. In higher winds, the heeling effect makes steering from the inside helm station difficult on port tack. The pilothouse is at its best in quieter seas, on long treks, and at anchor.

It’s difficult to fault the Rawson PH 30 within its limitations. It’s slow and not very close-winded when compared with contemporary 30-foot racer/cruisers, and the pilothouse’s weight and windage make it a little tender. The side decks, to favor the accommodations, are a tad narrow, but altogether, the boat meets the requirements of all-weather cruising in the Pacific Northwest. The solid and commodious Rawson PH 30 will provide safe and exciting year-round voyaging for decades to come.

Architect Richard Smith and his wife, Beth, sail their Ericson Cruising 31, Kuma , on the waters of the Pacific Northwest.

• More: 31 - 40 ft , before 2000 , Bluewater Cruising , keelboat , monohull , Sailboat Reviews , Sailboats , sailboats classic plastic
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Home » Blog » Bluewater sailboats » The best bluewater sailboats (we analyzed 2,000 boats to find out)

The best bluewater sailboats (we analyzed 2,000 boats to find out)

By Author Fiona McGlynn

Posted on Last updated: May 16, 2023

We analyzed two-thousand bluewater sailboats to bring you a list of proven offshore designs

What are the best bluewater sailboats?

This was a question we asked a lot of experienced cruisers when we decided to sail across the Pacific. We needed a boat after all, and we wanted to buy the best bluewater sailboat we could afford.

We heard a lot of strong opinions.

Some sailors thought it was reckless to go offshore in any boat that didn’t have a full keel.

Others prioritized performance, and wouldn’t dream of going anywhere in a slow boat like the Westsail 32 (a.k.a. a “Wet Snail 32”).

Opinions like these left us feeling confused like we had to choose between safety and performance.  

If we learned anything from these conversations, it’s that what makes a bluewater boat is a hotly debated topic!

However, there’s a way to cut through all the opinions and get to the bottom of it. The solution is….

We analyzed just under 2,000 boats embarking on ocean crossings (over a 12 year time period) and came up with a list of the ten best bluewater sailboats.

Where did we get our data?

The data for our best bluewater sailboats list comes from 12 years of entries in the Pacific Puddle Jump (PPJ), an annual cross-Pacific rally. We took part in 2017 and had a ball!

You can read about the methodology we used to analyze this data at the bottom of the post.

What do we mean by “best”?

We know, that word is overused on the internet!

Simply, based on our data set, these were the most common makes and models entered in the PPJ cross-Pacific rally. There were at least 10 PPJ rally entries for every make of boat on our top 10 list.

So, these boats are 100% good to go?

No! A bluewater boat isn’t necessarily a seaworthy boat. Almost every cruiser we know made substantial repairs and additions to get their offshore boat ready, adding watermakers , life rafts, solar panels, and more.

Also, you should always have a boat inspected by a professional and accredited marine surveyor before buying it or taking it offshore.

But my bluewater baby boat isn’t on this list!?

There are hundreds of excellent bluewater yachts that are not on this list. For instance, we sailed across the Pacific in a Dufour 35, which didn’t even come close to making our top 10 list.

Choosing the right boat is very much an individual journey.

Where can I find these bluewater boats for sale?

We recognize that a top 10 list won’t get you very far if you’re shopping for a bluewater boat (especially if you’re looking in the used market).

So, to help you find your perfect boat, we’re going to create a big list of bluewater boats that you can use to refine your search on Yachtworld, Craigslist, or any other places to buy a used boat .

Sign up for our newsletter to get our big list of bluewater boats list as soon as it comes out.

We’re also working on a series of posts by size class. For example, if you’re looking for a smaller boat, you can narrow it down to the best bluewater sailboats under 40 feet .

Takeaways from our analysis

There were no big surprises on an individual boat level. All of these makes are considered good cruisers, some of them are even best-selling designs! However, there were a few things that caught our eye.

“Go simple, go small, go now” still holds water

We were thrilled to see the smallest boat in our roundup at the very top of the list! Westsail 32 owners can take pride in their small but mighty yachts (and ignore all those snail-sayers).

While undoubtedly there’s been a trend towards bigger bluewater cruisers in recent years, small cruising sailboats seem to be holding their own. 60% of the monohulls on this list were under 40 feet (if you count the Valiant 40 which sneaks just under at 39.92 feet).

Cat got our tongue

So, we knew catamarans were a thing, but we didn’t fully appreciate HOW popular they’d become!

50% of our top 10 bluewater boat list consists of catamarans—a good fact to toss out the next time you’re trying to garner a happy hour invite on the party boat next door (which will undoubtedly be a catamaran).

Still got it!

We’ve got good news for all you good old boat lovers! 60% of the boats on our list were first built before 2000.

While these older models are less performance-oriented than modern designs, cruisers value these boats for their ability to stand up to rough seas and heavy weather. It just goes to show that solid bones and classic looks never go out of style.

Alright, without further ado, let’s dive into our list of the 10 best bluewater boats!

The 10 best bluewater boats

1. Westsail 32

The Westsail 32 is one of the most iconic bluewater cruisers and 19 have set out to cross the Pacific in the PPJ rally since 2009.

In 1973, this small cruising sailboat garnered a 4-page spread in Time magazine. The article inspired many Americans to set sail and the Westsail 32, with its double-ender design, set the standard for what a real bluewater cruiser should look like.

There were approximately 830 built between 1971 and 1980.

This small boat has taken sailors on ocean crossings and circumnavigations. Though considered “slow” by some, the heavily-built Westsail 32 has developed a loyal following for her other excellent offshore cruising characteristics.

If you’re interested in small bluewater sailboats, check out our post on the best small sailboats for sailing around the world .

2. Lagoon 380

The Lagoon 380 is a reliable, solidly built catamaran and considered roomy for its size. We counted 18 of them in our data set. With over 800 boats built , it may be one of the best-selling catamarans in the world. Like the other boats on this list, the Lagoon 380 has proven itself on long passages and ocean crossings, winning it many loyal fans.

3. Lagoon 440

18 Lagoon 440s have set out to cross the Pacific in the PPJ rally since 2009.

Why leave the comforts of home, when you can take them with you? The Lagoon 440 is a luxurious long-range cruiser, offering beautiful wood joinery, spacious accommodations, and a deluxe galley. Oh, and you have the option of an electric boat motor !

SAIL and Sailing Magazine have both done in-depth reviews of the Lagoon 440 if you want to learn more.

4. Amel Super Maramu (incl. SM 2000)

If you follow the adventures of SV Delos on YouTube, you probably know that the star of the show (SV Delos— in case the title didn’t give it away ) is an Amel Super Maramu. These classic bluewater sailboats can be found all over the world, proof they can go the distance.

We counted 16 Amel Super Maramus and Super Maramu 2000s in our list of PPJ entries.

Ready to join the cult of Amel? Read more about the iconic brand in Yachting World.

5. Valiant 40

When I interviewed legendary yacht designer, Bob Perry, for Good Old Boat in 2019, he told me that the Valiant 40 was one of the boats that most defined him and marked the real start of his career.

At the time, heavy displacement cruisers were considered sluggish and slow, especially in light winds.

Perry’s innovation with the Valiant 40 was to combine a classic double ender above the waterline, with an IOR racing hull shape below the waterline. The result was the first “performance cruiser”, a blockbuster hit, with over 200 boats built in the 1970s.

It’s no surprise we counted 16 Valiant 40s in our data set.

Cruising World magazine dubbed it “a fast, comfortable, and safe cruising yacht,” and there’s no doubt it’s covered some serious nautical miles.

It’s worth noting that there were blistering problems with hull numbers 120-249 (boats built between 1976 and 1981). Later models did not have this problem. Despite the blistering issues, the Valiant 40 remains one of the most highly thought of bluewater designs.

6. TAYANA 37

The Tayana 37 is another hugely popular Perry design. The first boat rolled off the production line in 1976 and since then, nearly 600 boats have been built. Beautiful classic lines and a proven track record have won the Tayana 37 a devoted following of offshore enthusiasts.

12 Tayana 37s have set out to cross the Pacific in the PPJ rally since 2009. Read more about the Tayana 37 in this Practical Sailor review .

7. Lagoon 450

If this list is starting to sound like a paid advertisement, I swear we’re not on Lagoon’s payroll! This is the third Lagoon on our list, but the data doesn’t lie. Lagoon is making some of the best cruising sailboats.

The 450 has been a hot seller for Lagoon, with over 800 built since its launch in 2014. While not a performance cat, the Lagoon 450 travels at a reasonable speed and is brimming with luxury amenities.

At least 12 owners in the PPJ rally chose the Lagoon 450 to take them across the Pacific. It’s no wonder SAIL had so many good things to say about it.

8. Fountaine Pajot Bahia 46

There were 11 Fountaine Pajot Bahia 46s in our data set.

Fountaine Pajot released the Bahia 46 in 1997, a sleek design for traveling long distances. Its generously-sized water and fuel tanks along with ample storage for cruising gear are a real plus for the self-sufficient sailor.

According to Cruising World , “Cruising-cat aficionados should put the Bahia 46 on their “must-see” list.”

9. Catalina 42 (MKI, MKII)

10 Catalina 42s (MKI and MKII) have set out to cross the Pacific in the PPJ rally since 2009.

The Catalina 42 was designed under the guidance of the legendary yacht designer and Catalina’s chief engineer, Gerry Douglas.

One of Catalina’s philosophies is to offer “as much boat for the money as possible,” and the Catalina 42 is no exception. According to Practical Sailor , Catalina aims to price its boats 15% to 20% below major production boats like Hunter and Beneteau.

Practical Sailor has a great in-depth review of the Catalina 42 .

10. Leopard 46

Since 2009, 10 Leopard 46s have embarked on Pacific crossings in the PPJ rally.

Leopards have won legions of fans for their high build quality, robust engineering, and excellent performance.

The Leopard 46 also boasts something of a racing pedigree. It was built in South Africa by Robertson and Caine and designed by Gino Morelli and Pete Melvin, who came up with the record-breaking catamaran Playstation / Cheyenne 125 .

Read more about the Leopard 46 in this Cruising World review .

Methodology

What the data is and isn’t.

The PPJ data was a real boon because it reflects a wide range of cruising boats: small, big, old, new, expensive, and affordable. We think this may be because the PPJ is a very financially accessible rally—the standard entry cost is $125 or $100 if you’re under 35 (age or boat length!).

We did look at data from other (pricier) rallies but found that the results skewed towards more expensive boats.

Needless to say, the data we used is just a sample of the bluewater boats that crossed the Pacific over the last 10+ years. Many cruisers cross oceans without participating in a rally!

Entries vs. completions

The data we used is a list of the PPJ entries, not necessarily the boats that completed the rally. In instances where we saw the same boat entered multiple years in a row, we assumed they’d postponed their crossing and deleted all but the latest entry to avoid double counting.

Boat make variations

The world of boat building and naming can get pretty complicated. Sometimes a manufacturer changes a boat’s name a year or two into production, other times the name remains the same but the boat undergoes a dramatic update.

For the most part, we’ve used SailboatData.com’s classification system (if they list the boats separately, then we have also), except where there are two separately listed models that have the same LOA, beam, and displacement.

Fiona McGlynn is an award-winning boating writer who created Waterborne as a place to learn about living aboard and traveling the world by sailboat. She has written for boating magazines including BoatUS, SAIL, Cruising World, and Good Old Boat. She’s also a contributing editor at Good Old Boat and BoatUS Magazine. In 2017, Fiona and her husband completed a 3-year, 13,000-mile voyage from Vancouver to Mexico to Australia on their 35-foot sailboat.

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Classic Small Cruisers List

Choosing a small voyaging sailboat

Listed below are 73 monohull fiberglass sailboats up to 32 feet in length that, with minor modifications in some cases, I believe could be suitable for making offshore voyages. The list, though incomplete, is aimed at helping those who have asked me for recommendations on buying a small boat for cruising and potential offshore voyaging.

I consider a small cruising sailboat as one that is up to 32-foot in length. I might further subdivide them as follows: 26-30-foot – pocket cruiser 21-25-foot – mini-cruiser 20-foot and under – micro-cruiser A category not on this list are trailer-sailers that are generally under 5,000 lbs. for easy towing, road legal beam of less than 8′ (or 8’6″ covers most states), hinged mast steps for easy mast raising, and shoal draft under about 3-foot or swing keel for ease of launching. Then there are the “trailerable” boats such as my Pearson Triton 28 that are best launched from a boatyard travel lift because they have more draft than is easily accommodated at a boat launch ramp and may require a crane for mast raising. They usually have more beam and displacement that requires a bigger tow vehicle and extra-wide towing permits. In any case, all the boats on this list fall into the small cruisers category. If you want a boat that you can bring to your home for storage or repairs then the Alberg 30, with its 9,000 lb., displacement, 4’3″ draft and only slightly oversize beam of 8’9″ is close to the largest practical size that you can safely tow with a 3/4 ton pickup such as my F-250.

Aside from a few exceptions, boats on my list meet the following criteria of proven seaworthiness, moderate draft under 5-foot, tiller steering, keels that are not merely bolted on that are either traditional full keel or, more commonly, relatively long three-quarter keels (full keel with cutaway forefoot) with keel attached rudder, room for one, or at the larger end of the size range, two people to live-aboard in reasonable comfort, fiberglass construction for ease of maintenance and availability, and this sailor’s idea of functional and attractive design. Some of the boats listed here I have sailed and know well, others I know from working on them, or by research and reputation.  

The boats on this list range from inexpensive moderate displacement classic coastal cruiser/racer designs like the Pearson Ariel 26 to the heavy, more traditional, more expensive boats like the Westsail 32 designed for comfortable and safe offshore voyaging even in heavy weather. Obviously, the Ariel is not as suitable to a voyage around Cape Horn as the Westsail. That does not disqualify these coastal cruiser designs from voyaging. It does mean it makes sense to take extra efforts to prepare these boats for offshore and make more conservative route planning to sail in safer latitudes and milder seasons. Like any tool, you need to use the right boat for the job.

All boats are compromises of desirable and undesirable features for any given task and the smaller the boat the more obvious the compromises become. For example, though my ideal boat is not a double-ender or canoe transom, because they leave less room for cockpit stowage, outboard motor, solar panels and windvane attachment, I’ve included them here because of their exceptional qualities in other areas, their undeniable beauty, and because most sailors prefer inboard engines that allow them to motor longer distances and in higher wave conditions than the outboard can handle. If you want a diesel or electric inboard engine or plan to sail engineless, then these designs may suit your needs. Another compromise area is standing headroom. Ideally you want to be able to stand up at least in the main salon. If you are above average height, then a small boat is not likely to have the headroom you require. You can either move up in boat size to gain more headroom, choose a small boat with an ungainly tall coach roof, or resign yourself to stoop. On some boats it’s possible to lower the cabin sole a few inches, if needed. At the very least, if your pocket cruiser lacks headroom and is not already set up this way, you may want to retrofit your galley next to the companionway hatch so that you can stand up when preparing food with the hatch slid open.

A big plus for boats like the Pearson Ariel, Triton, Alberg 30, some of the Bristol and Cape Dory line and similar boats on this list is that they are relatively inexpensive and are proven offshore capable. An advantage of an inexpensive boat is it gives you the option of not buying insurance and could even replace it with a small emergency savings fund, which I call being self-insured. Also, their long production runs mean there are always some available on the market. A bonus in my view is if a boat has an overhanging transom and lazarette locker that can be modified for an outboard motor well when the inboard engine has reached the end of its life or, like me, you simply can’t tolerate the wasted space, complexity, and fouling of your bilge with oil and fuel leaks that comes with an inboard engine. Although some boats on this list were offered with an outboard well from the factory, they are generally poorly designed non-tilting wells, which has earned outboard wells a bad reputation and is why I specialize in converting suitable boats to tilt-up outboard wells. When an experienced sailor tells you to stay away from an outboard well it’s almost always because they have not experienced a well-designed version. You can find boats with added wells featured in my  atomvoyager  youtube channel. Despite my own preference as a sailor who makes the effort to sail rather when others find it more convenient to motor, most sailors prefer to have the ample power and ability to motor in more adverse conditions that comes with an inboard diesel over the limitations of an outboard motor. It depends on the sailor more than anything else.

For those that can afford them, the more expensive boats on this list such as Pacific Seacraft and Morris Yachts have some advantages such as higher quality materials and construction and better resale value. 

As for the rig, I’ve sailed sloops, yawls, ketches, schooners and junks, and they all have their attributes. A sloop rig is simple and efficient and the most common, though a cutter or sloop modified to carry a staysail or inner stay to hoist a storm jib, is what I recommend because it adds strength, more versatility in sail options and redundancy to the rig. 

This list mostly contains older boats with rudders hung on moderately full keels, which compared to more modern designs, are generally slower boats because of more wetted surface and drag. A true full keel is traditionally considered one that extends most of the length of the waterline. Anything else, such as a full keel with cutaway forefoot and with the aft end of the keel moved a few feet forward is technically defined as a fin keel. But in common usage today a fin keel refers to a keel that is shorter fore and aft, often bolted on instead of molded into the fiberglass hull, and having a separate rudder. Technically, my Pearson Triton and similar style keels can be defined as “fin” keels, although to differentiate between these and shorter more modern fin keels I refer to them as three-quarter keel (AKA modified full keel, semi-full keel, or full with cutaway forefoot). Short but deep fin keels and unprotected spade rudders and other hull forms that may compromise handling and strength and restrict shallow water navigation are not on this list. Although a deep fin keel and separate spade rudder will give you a speed edge to windward and improved maneuvering in a marina, the spade rudder and exposed propeller will snag on lines and fish nets and if you hit anything underway and damage the rudder, the boat’s steering is too easily disabled. 

Most of the boats built in the past 40 years do not have keel-hung rudders and many of them perform well and have proven to be safe at sea, particularly those with skeg-hung rudders, where the hull adds some strength and protection to the rudder. A full skeg that protects the bottom of the rudder is often a good compromise. Though I didn’t include most of these good boats on my list, it’s mainly because the attributes of the keel-hung rudder are more important to the offshore voyager than an extra half-knot of speed or improved steering in reverse. Voyaging and cruising are about being at sea and at anchor. If you intend to sail in and out of tight marinas on a regular basis instead of crossing oceans and anchoring out, then more modern designs might be your better choice.

An unavoidable issue with the newer boats on this list is that many of them are built with interior fiberglass hull liners to save money on construction. Though this makes production more efficient, it makes it more difficult for the owner to modify or gain access to all areas of the hull. You can always cut away non-structural portions of the liner to gain the access needed but good luck on getting rid of a roach infestation on a linered boat with many inaccessible areas.

Most of the boats on the list have fiberglass decks cored with balsa wood. This can be a problem. It’s long been and still is a fairly standard construction procedure, but it would be better for longevity of the core if they had used better construction techniques to prevent water intrusion into the core or, better yet, used closed cell foam core or even the heavier plywood core or even solid fiberglass layup. The main problem is the deck fittings were often not installed properly through the cored area and over time the water gets into the core around the fasteners and slowly spreads. Minor core damage around fasteners can be repaired easily, but extensive rotten core as evidenced by a dull thud with a mallet or excessive flex and spongy feel when walking on the deck or deck flexing when you pull at the top of a stanchion, is a major repair. You can still sail with moderately rotted deck core since it is seldom bad enough to be an issue of strength. The problem is that a rotted core makes it impossible to seal leaks in the deck fittings and that water will be a major nuisance as it trickles below into lockers and shelves. A surveyor can help you avoid a boat with rotted balsa core or help you negotiate a better price to offset repairs. Cored hulls are rarer – only a few boats on this list, such as the Southern Cross 28 and 31, have cored hulls. Those that do, use a closed cell urethane type core which when properly installed has proved not to be a problem and is actually a plus because it is lighter for the same strength (or stronger for the same weight) and adds insulation.

I realize there are many other capable designs and that other sailors will disagree with my preferences. Let me know if you have a correction or can fill in missing data or if I’ve overlooked a good boat that you feel should be on the list. But don’t feel slighted if your current boat is not listed here. There can never be just one Small Cruisers List and this one doesn’t claim to be any more valid than yours. Good boats that are generally unavailable on the used boat market because they were custom built or had a very short production run are not listed. If you find a boat with the criteria set out above (or your own criteria) and happens to be custom built or a short-run production boat, then it’s also worth consideration.

If you’re looking for a boat of the type outlined above, you can use this list as a starting point. Begin by realistically deciding on your expected use, whether crossing oceans alone or with a family, limited coastal trips with crew or some combination of those. If you’re sailing alone or with one other person, then the smaller boats on this list are worth considering. If you have kids and a dog, and can’t find a way to leave them ashore, you’ll want a boat at the larger end of the list. Even those may not be big enough, in which case I’d recommend cutting the crew list rather than lengthening the boat. 

At any rate, make a list of your own requirements in a boat, such as cost, draft, amount of headroom needed below deck, inboard or outboard engine and so on. Then start looking closer at the boats on this list that match your criteria. Go aboard as many of these boats as you can and ask questions of their owners until you find the right boat for you. Once you’ve narrowed it down, try to arrange a test sail if you’re serious about the boat. Keep in mind that the seller or broker may be reluctant to offer a test sail due to bad experiences in the past where buyers just out for an education wasted their time on test sails without doing enough prior research to know they were interested in actually buying the boat.

Make an offer to purchase contingent on a satisfactory survey and then find a surveyor who will do a thorough inspection, not just the standard quick check required for an insurance company. Be there with the surveyor to ask questions and have them point out to you any issues with the boat. 

Older boats will require more upgrades (time and money) simply because of their age unless a recent owner has already refit the boat. Many of the boats on this list were built over forty years ago, so virtually all their systems – rigging, engine, rudder, deck core, electrics – will require repair or replacement. In most cases it is wiser to buy the fully upgraded older boat, if you’re fortunate enough to find one, and pay a premium price up front than to get involved in a major reconstruction project at a bargain purchase price. The previous owner of that finely fitted out classic boat has poured far more money into upgrades and equipment than he will get out of it when he sells and you as buyer are in a good position to save substantial time and money. Remember, the most expensive boat to own is the one that had the cheapest asking price. So my advice is not to hunt for the cheapest boat on the market, but the best boat you can afford. And don’t forget to keep at least 50% of your boat fund in reserve for the inevitable cost overruns on a fitting out project. Even for a boat that was recently refitted, I’d keep 25% of my budget in reserve for the inevitable changes and equipment additions you’ll want.

There will always be issues to compromise on. For example, your ideal boat may have been “upgraded” with dubious improvements such as a conversion from tiller to wheel steering by a previous owner who wanted a more yacht-style boat. In most cases you can convert back to tiller. Boats that came from the factory with wheel steering as standard equipment are not on this list unless the conversion back to tiller steering is simple and the boats otherwise merit inclusion. You may ask, if wheel steering is so popular and makes the boat look yacht-like to you, why do I dismiss them? With a tiller, you have more space in the cockpit, particularly at anchor when you swing it up and out of the way which is typically over 90% of your time on the boat, self-steering is easier to rig, you always see the rudder angle with a glance at the tiller, the feel of the steering is more direct and intuitive, it’s lighter and simpler, less maintenance and far more reliable. A steering failure at sea is no joke and is much more common with wheel steering and can be difficult to jury rig a repair.

Why not list bigger boats? My feeling is you should get the smallest boat that will suit your requirements rather than the largest boat you feel you can afford. A boat any larger than around 30-foot and 5 tons means significantly bigger, heavier, more expensive gear, higher maintenance costs and more labor to maintain and operate. Maintenance and equipment costs can double between a 28 to a 38-footer. An outboard motor under 10 HP is far less costly to replace and maintain than a diesel and provides adequate thrust for boats under 30-foot. At some point you may want to put your boat on a trailer to refit in your backyard and as I mentioned earlier this becomes difficult or costly for boats over 30-foot and 10,000 lbs.

Also, when things go wrong on a big boat they go wrong in a big way – you can’t manhandle a jammed furling genoa on a 45-foot boat in a gale like you can on a 28-footer. Nor can you pull up the anchors by hand on a windy day. Granted, a heavy displacement boat closer to 32 feet is potentially safer and better suited for high latitude voyages and will generally have an easier motion at sea. But a smaller, less-complex boat will give you as much or more pleasure and is safer to sail in most situations. And for those on a budget it will get you sailing sooner rather than later. 

If, after considering everything above, you feel a larger boat with different design criteria is suitable for your purposes then you should check out the sailboat reviews at  Blue Water Boats .

A final word of advice to the novice sailor – resist the temptation to undertake a major refit and extensive modifications on your new old boat right at the start. It’s best to make only the obvious repairs needed and go out and sail locally and on some limited coastal passages to learn exactly what is and what is not needed for you. Otherwise you may end up spending years and many thousands of dollars more than expected modifying your boat and then find out on your first ocean crossing that the boat is not right for you or those great ideas you had during the refurbishment did not work out that well at sea.

The following boats are listed here with the idea that they will be modified as needed for the type of voyages expected of them. Once you’ve found your boat, now go challenge your distant sea!

(some data and images courtesy  sailboatdata.com )

• New in 2019:  Sailboat Design Ratios ( link to online Google Sheet version ) You may find this searchable spreadsheet of sailboat calculations useful to compare characteristics between boats. Some data may be missing or inaccurate as we are still updating. The color codes run from red (areas of potential concern) to green (considered optimal). But these are rough guides and not always usable. For example, the sail area/displacement ratio may show red, which could mean under-ballasted, but is more likely to be a positive attribute of having extra sail area for light airs that can be reefed to bring the boat back into a better ratio.

Pacific Seacraft Flicka 20  

LOA: 24’ LOD: 20’ LWL: 18’2” Beam: 8’ draft: 3’3” Displacement: about 6,000 lbs. Ballast: 1,800 lbs. internal lead. Sail Area: 250 sq ft.

General Comments:  In 1972 Bruce Bingham designed the Flicka to be one of the smallest offshore capable pocket cruisers. Built first by Nor-star with some available as owner-finished kits. Pacific Seacraft then built 434 Flickas from 1978 to around 1994. Pluses: Pacific Seacraft sailboats are known for quality construction and good resale value. Some Flickas came powered with an outboard motor. 5’11” headroom. Minuses: This egg-shaped boat is cramped on deck and although relatively spacious below, would be challenging for two liveaboards and the inboard diesel option leaves even less space for gear and provisions. In anything other than ideal conditions the Flicka is slow, particularly in light winds, which is to be expected from putting so much beam, freeboard and displacement into such a small length boat. The lack of a bridge deck on pre-1984 models could expose the cabin to flooding from the cockpit. More info:

• http://www.flicka20.com
• https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/flicka

Falmouth Cutter 22

LOD: 30’6” LOD: 22’ LWL: 20’10” Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’6” Displacement: 7,400 lbs. Ballast: 2,500 lbs encapsulated lead.

General Comments: Approximately 39 of these salty Lyle Hess design pocket cruisers were built in fiberglass at Sam L. Morse yard in California and at other yards, including Cape George Marine. Pluses: Her long bowsprit and generous 403 sq. ft. sail area make her performance better than expected for a small and heavy traditional design pocket cruiser. 5’11” headroom under short cabin trunk. Minuses: Rare, expensive and heavy. The interior of such a small boat is obviously cramped for cruising and the standard inboard diesel engine makes it more so, but a small outboard motor is an option and their lesser resale value can make the boat more affordable. Unfortunately, few come on the market. More info:

• http://www.capegeorgecutters.com/FC22/index.html
• Channel Cutter Yachts

LOA: 24’7” LWL: 18’1” Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’5” Displacement: 5,920 lbs. Ballast: 1,900 lbs. internal lead. Sail Area: 296 sq. ft.

General Comments: 726 boats built between 1969-83. Outboard motor well or inboard diesel option. Similar in some dimensions to the Cape Dory 25D. Earlier models called the Sailstar 24 are reported to have concrete/iron ballast and shallow bilge. If the bilge is only about 6″ deep, its’ the Sailstar. Pluses: 6’ cabin headroom. Some later models have a slot in the transom for a tilt-up outboard well, which is a big advantage over a fixed well. More info: https://sailingmagazine.net/article-1179-bristol-24.html

Pacific Seacraft Dana 24

LOA: 27’3” LOD: 24’ LWL: 21’5” Beam: 8’7” Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 8,000 lbs. Ballast: 3,200 lbs. internal lead. Sail area: 358 sq. ft. (100% foretriangle)

General Comments: Bill Crealock design built from 1984-99. 18HP Yanmar diesel standard. Sloop or cutter rig with 3′ long bowsprit. Pluses: 8’7” beam and 6’1″ headroom on a 24 foot boat with open V-berth design makes it surprisingly roomy inside. Eight bronze opening ports. Enclosed head and shower! Minuses: A very expensive 24-footer. More info:

Dana 24 Video Tour  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubcqjUby8Yw http://www.janice142.com/BoatInfo/Dana24…

Bayfield 25

LOD: 25’ LWL: 19’8″ Beam: 8′ Displacement: 4,300 lbs Draft: 2’11” Ballast: 1,500 lbs. Sail area: 240 Sq. Ft.

General Comments:  Pluses: Long, full keel makes for shallow draft. Roomy for its size which is closer to 24′ on deck not counting the molded in bowsprit. 6′ headroom. Minuses: Relatively slow in light airs. Its shallow draft keel would seem to indicate less resistance to capsize in storm conditions compared to most other boats on this list. Not a great choice for long or high latitude passages where extreme weather may be encountered but probably suitable for most cruising if passage planning is done carefully. Companionway sill is dangerously low, but could be raised without much trouble. More info: http://sailquest.com/market/models/bayf25.htm

Cape Dory 25

LOD: 24’10” LWL: 18’ Beam: 7’3” Draft: 3’ Displacement: 4,000 lbs. Ballast: 1,700 lbs. Sail area: 264 sq. ft.

General Comments: George Stadel design. 846 boats built between 1972-82. A similar version was built earlier by Allied Boat Company as the Greenwich 24. The 25D version listed below is a different design with diesel inboard. The 25 has an outboard well in lazarette. Minuses: Requires several modifications for offshore safety such as reducing cockpit footwell volume and modifying companionway dropboards so they don’t fall out when raised slightly. Headroom is limited to about 5’. Boats from before around 1979 had fixed ports, later models had bronze opening ports. More info: http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd25.htm

Cape Dory 25D

LOD: 25’ LWL: 19’ Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’6” Displacement: 5,120 lbs. Ballast: 2,050 lbs. encapsulated lead.

General Comments: Alberg design. 184 built between 1981-85. Main salon has 5’11” headroom. Large head and shower in place of V-berth. More info:   http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd25d.htm

Pacific Seacraft 25

LOA: 26’3” LWL: 21’ Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’3” Displacement: 4,750 lbs. Ballast: 1,750 lbs. encapsulated lead. Sail area: 250 sq. ft. masthead sloop or cutter with bowsprit.

General Comments: Henry Mohrschladt designed double-ended cutter built in the mid to late 1970’s. Pluses: Six opening bronze portlights. Mast can be raised and lowered in its tabernacle. Minuses: Headroom is limited to about 5 feet. Low companionway entrance requires the lower dropboards be secured at sea. The 8 HP inboard Yanmar is hard to access unless you remove the cockpit footwell floor which is difficult to seal. Although small double-ender designs such as this are a good candidate for going engineless with a sculling oar or pair of sweeps or an electric inboard if you don’t require more than a couple hours motoring between charges of the battery bank, the only other option is to keep the inboard diesel. More info: Reviewed in John Vigor’s Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere .

Rhodes Meridian 25

LOA: 24’9” LWL: 17’6” Beam: 7’ to 7’3” Draft: 3’3” to 3’7” Displacement: 5,300 lbs. Ballast: 2,300 lbs.

General Comments: Built in Holland in the 1960’s. Several versions available, including the Seafarer with more beam and draft in later models. Some came with an outboard well. Pluses: Beautiful sheer line and practical interior layout with 5’8” headroom in salon. Minuses: Not many of these boats are available on the market. Many came with wooden spars prone to rot over the years. Avoid the few late 1960’s models that had fin keel with detached rudder. More info: https://sailboat.guide/seafarer/meridian-25

Vancouver 25

LOD: 25′ LWL: 21’8″ Beam: 8’6″ Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 7,380 lbs. Ballast: 3,000 lbs.

General Comments: Designed by Robert Harris who also designed the Vancouver 27/28. Up to about 40 of these pocket cruisers were built mostly in Taiwan around the early 1980’s. A few may have been built in Thailand and California. Full keel with slightly cutaway forefoot and short bowsprit. Pluses: Nicely fitted out with teak and bronze hardware. Standing headroom reported to be at least 6′. Minuses: An inboard engine may not be what some people want on a boat of this size, but is mostly unavoidable on a double-ender design. More info: https://veronaleslie.wordpress.com/category/vancouver-25s/

Contessa 26 / Taylor 26

LOD: 25’6” LWL: 21’ Beam: 7’6” Draft: 4’ Displacement: 5,400 lbs. Ballast: 

General Comments: Designed by David Sadler based on the International Folkboat. Several hundred were built in Canada as the Taylor 26 and in the UK as Contessa 26. After 1983 the Taylor 26 began using lead ballast instead of iron, lowered the cabin sole for more headroom and stability, amidships hatch added for light and ventilation, newer model Yanmar diesel and other improvements. Pluses: Proven circumnavigator. The 1983-90 production boats appear the best choice. Minuses: Instead of the traditional sliding companionway hatch, the boats have a raised bubble to the coachroof, which causes the boat to feel cramped, reduces ventilation and makes it awkward to take quick checks of the horizon when on watch in foul weather. As I was prepping a Contessa for an offshore delivery from Brunswick, GA to Maine I noticed the side decks are so narrow it’s a tight squeeze to get by between the dodger and lifelines. Also the dodger obstructs the jib sheet winches. Because the salon bunks are moved aft as quarterberths, the galley is located forward of the bunks, forcing you to cook on your knees and making the boat hot. The advantages of the massive outboard hung rudder are offset by the inability to replace the inboard diesel with an outboard well. But an outboard bracket on a corner of the transom is a possibility. More info: Contessa Corner  website and  forum

Cape Dory 26

LOD: 25’11” LWL: 19’3” Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’7” Displacement: 5,300 lbs. Ballast: 2,400 lbs. Sail area: 304 sq. ft.

General Comments: Alberg design. 78 were built between 1984-88. Most have an outboard motor well in lazarette. Pluses: 5’11” headroom. More info: http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd26.htm

Cheoy Lee Offshore 26

LOD: 25’7” LWL: 20’11” Beam: 8’10” Draft: 3’9” Displacement: 6,100 lbs. Ballast: 2,240 lbs. More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/offshore26.htm   

Columbia 26 (classic model)

LOD: 26’4″ LWL: 19′ Beam: 8′ Draft: 4′ Displacement: 5,200 lbs. Ballast: 2,300 lbs. lead. Sail area: 321 sq.ft.

General comments: Some 700 boats built between 1963-69. Outboard well. Pluses: 6’1″ headroom for those who need it. Not to be confused with the fin keel/spade rudder MKII and later versions. More info:   http://www.columbia-yachts.com/c-26.html

International (IF) or Nordic Folkboat 26

LOD: 25’1” LWL: 19’8” Beam: 7’5” Draft: 3’11” Displacement: approx. 5,000 lbs. Ballast: 2,750 lbs. iron. Sail area: 258 sq. ft.

General Comments: Updated Tord Sunden designed fiberglass version of the original 25’ wooden folkboat. Built by various manufacturers of similar design mostly from Sweden and Denmark between 1967-84. Different models varied in areas such as cockpit design, inboard engine or outboard options, aluminum masthead or wooden fractional rig. Pluses: More than half it’s displacement is ballast which makes this small, low freeboard boat very stable for it’s size. Over three thousand have been built with many still on the market in Europe and over one hundred in the USA. Our English friend, Tony Curphey, completed a circumnavigation in his folkboat in the 1990’s. Minuses: Although capable of offshore voyages they were mainly designed for racing or short cruises and are cramped below with max headroom of 4’8″. A wet ride going to windward. More info: Some of the site below is in English, including a review in Good Old Boat Magazine under the Articles link. Also reviewed in John Vigor’s book, Twenty Small Sailboats to Take You Anywhere. http://www.ifboat.com/indexe.htm

LOA: 27’6” LOD: 26’ LWL:  Beam: 7’10” Draft: 4’ Displacement:  6,200 lbs. Ballast: 2,700 lbs.

General Comments: Only 26 of these were built by John Kaiser, Sr. of Wilmington, Del. Pluses: At least 5’10” headroom. Minuses: Hard to find on the market.  More info: Little info online, but here are some owner’s comments. http://www.sailnet.com/forums/…

Morris Frances 26

LOD: 26’ LWL: 21’3” Beam: 8’ to 8’2” Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 6,800 lbs. Ballast: 3,500 lbs. (external or encapsulated lead)

General Comments:  Double-ended cutter or 7/8 sloop designed by Chuck Paine. About 42 built by Morris Yachts, also called the Morris 26. Others were built by Victoria Marine in Britain and called  the Victoria 26. Flush-decked or 6’ headroom in cabin trunk version. Pluses: High quality construction, beautiful design, good high ballast ratio. A singlehanded voyager’s dream. Minuses: Expensive. Keel-stepped mast is strong but cannot be raised or lowered without a crane, which is a disadvantage if you intend to trailer her often. Inboard engine, even a small Yanmar 1GM10, takes up much useable space and an outboard motor is difficult to fit and unsightly on a double-ender. More info: http://frances26.org/reviews.html http://www.janice142.com/BoatInfo/Frances26/

Pearson Ariel 26

LOD: 25’7” LWL: 18’8” Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’8” Displacement: 5,120 lbs. Ballast: 2,300 lbs. lead.

General Comments: Another classic Alberg design. The Pearson Commander 26 is the same hull design as the Ariel, but much shorter cabin and longer cockpit make the Commander better suited to daysailing. Atomic 4 inboard or outboard motor well in lazarette. Plusses: Active owners association. Minuses: Like most of the factory installed motor wells out there, the motor does not tilt up for sailing so it either gets dragged through the water under sail of must be awkwardly lifted out and stored in another locker. I haven’t measured it but there may not be adequate space between the transom and rudder shaft to make a tilt-up conversion. Check my outboard well article in this site for more info. More info: http://pearsonariel.org/

LOA: 30’5″ LOD: 26′ LWL: 21’3″ Beam: 8’3” Draft: 3’4″ Displacement: 6,600 lbs. Ballast: 2,650 lbs. lead.

General Comments: Daniel Avourer designed double ended cutter built by Voyager in 1980’s. Diesel inboard standard. Pluses: Full keel with shoal draft. Good quality build and attractive lines. Six or eight bronze opening ports. Minuses: Relatively rare. More info:   http://www.sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=4664

Westerly Centaur 26

LOD: 26’ LWL: 21’4” Beam: 8’5” Draft: 3’ Displacement: 5,500 lbs. Ballast: cast iron. Sail area: 294 sq. ft. (100% foretriangle)

General Comments: This UK built boat’s shallow draft and ability to stand upright on her twin keels may be a priority for some sailors which is why I made an exception to this list’s modified full keel requirement and included it here.  Some 2,500 were built from 1969-80. A friend of ours completed a solo circumnavigation in an outboard motor powered WC26 in 1997 without serious problems. Pluses: Great 3’ draft twin-keel concept if you want to stand the boat upright in shallow tidal harbors. The boat has more than expected stowage area. Minuses: If only the builder could put twin keels on a more attractive design. The twin keels are notably less efficient than a single deep fin keel, and perhaps even less than the windward performance of a similar full-keeled boat. In any case, this boat is relatively slow. Most were fitted with inboard engines. More info: https://www.spinsheet.com/boat-reviews/westerly-centaur-26-used-boat-review

Albin Vega 27  

LOD: 27’1” LWL: 23’2” Beam: 8’1” Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 5,070 lbs. Ballast: 2,020 lbs.

General Comments: Over 3,400 of these boats were built in Sweden between the mid 1960’s to 1979. 5’10” headroom in salon and galley. Pluses: Her proportions are well designed even if her overall appearance is unremarkable. Numerous long offshore passages have been documented including a circumnavigation of the Americas. Minuses: Some of these boats lack opening ports, reducing ventilation. Deck-stepped mast beam may need reinforcing. Chain plates are mere 8mm U-bolts bolted through the deck to hull flange in the European style and although most boats have not had problems with them, some have so you might consider adding external chain plates. Parts of the bilge are impossible to access due to the inboard engine and tanks. More info at: http://www.bluemoment.com/boatreviews/vegareview.html http://www.albinvega.com/vegadescription.html

Bristol 27  

LOD: 27’2” LWL: 19’9” Beam: 8’ Draft: 4’ Displacement: 6,600 lbs. Ballast: 2,575 lbs. internal lead. Sail area: 340 sq. ft.

General Comments: Alberg design that closely resembles the slightly larger Pearson Triton. About 337 built by Clint Pearson from 1966-78. Outboard motor well in lazarette standard. Optional Atomic 4 inboard. Some differences between cruising model, dinette model and the weekender that has shortened cabin and too large a cockpit for offshore. Pluses: 5’10” headroom in head compartment. Minuses: Some owners claim the boat is tender and is improved by adding up to 300 lb. ballast aft of the water tank. Although generally well constructed, the boats are aging and the bolted hull to deck joint  is prone to leaks. More info: https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/bristol-27

Cape Dory 27

LOD: 27’1” LWL: 20’ Beam: 8’6” Draft: 4’ Displacement: 7,500 lbs. Ballast: 3,000 lbs. Sail area: 365 sq. ft.

General Comments: Alberg design. 227 built between 1976-84. 5’10” headroom. Diesel engine standard but with 30 inches between transom and rudder post it could be converted to an outboard well to simplify if desired. Minuses: Recessed deck anchor locker on some boats does not allow storage space for long rode or anchor windlass but it can be converted to a standard chain locker below deck similar to what I described in my Columbia 8.7 refit article. More info: http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd27.htm

Cheoy Lee Newell Cadet / Offshore 27

LOD: 26’10” LWL: 19’6” Beam: 7’8” Draft: 4’4” Displacement: 6,900 lbs. Ballast: 2,700 lbs. (iron in cement) General Comments: At least two versions were built in the 1960’s at the Honk Kong yard. Minuses: Teak decks from the 1960’s are a maintenance problem. More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/N_CadetMain.html

Dockrell 27  

LOD: 27’ LWL: 21’ Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’ Displacement: 7,000 lbs. Ballast: 3,200 lbs. long iron wing keel. General Comments: British built long-keeler with shallow draft, cutter rigged with a self-tacking boomed staysail and the mast in a tabernacle.  Pluses: Shoal draft and possible to stand upright on her wing keel in protected harbors or with legs added to stabilize her. Proven passage maker. Minuses: Somewhat slow to windward. More info: http://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/archives/dockrell-27/dockrell-27.htm

LOD: 27’  LWL: 20’3″ Beam: 7’8″ Draft: 4’ Displacement: 6,720 lbs. Ballast: 3,000 lbs. encapsulated lead. Sail area: 365 sq. ft. main and genoa. General Comments: Designed by Alan Buchanan in 1968. Some 200 were built in UK by Offshore Yachts. Full keel with slightly cutaway forefoot with transom hung rudder.  Pluses: Solid passage maker with attractive lines. For those who need the extra height she has about 6′ headroom under the doghouse which is better than most folkboat derivatives such as the Contessa 26. Minuses: Few available outside UK. More info: http://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/archives/halcyon-27/halcyon-27.htm

Pacific Seacraft Orion 27

LOA: 30’ LOD: 27’ LWL: 22’2” Beam: 9’3” Draft: 4’ Displacement: 10,000 lbs. Ballast: 3,800 lbs. Sail area: 445 sq. ft. ?

General Comments: Henry Morschladt designed Cutter rig with bowsprit. 6’1” headroom. Pluses: The Mark II version has longer coachroof, extra ports and hatch. Minuses: Most boats on the market seem to have the wheel steering option, but could be converted back to tiller. Many have an “A” layout plan with a U-shaped dinette opposite a long galley which means there is no bunk in the center salon, but the table does convert to a double bunk and there is a pilot berth. More info: https://sailingmagazine.net/article-2125-pacific-seacraft-orion-27.html

LOA: 31’ LOD: 27’ LWL: 25’ Beam: 8’ Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 8,100 lbs. Ballast: 3,100 lbs.

General Comments:  Lyle Hess design built by various yards over the years. One of the larger “trailerable” offshore cruisers. Rig height varied by 4-foot for heavy and light air versions. Minuses: Most were built with what some consider an awkward aft cabin layout. Some boats were owner finished and early models had perhaps less than optimal ballast. More info: https://www.spinsheet.com/boat-reviews/norsea-27-used-boat-review

Rossiter Pintail 27

LOA: 27′ LOD: 23’ LWL: ” Beam: 8’9” Draft: 3’7″ Displacement: 11,600 lbs. Ballast: 4,600 lbs. Sail area:  sq. ft.

General Comments: Built originally in wood then in fiberglass during the early 1970s by Rossiter Yachts in England. Full keel encapsulated lead ballast and integral molded bilge keels to allow her to have shallow draft and stand upright when drying out at low tide. Headroom 5’9″. Sloop rig. Came with Lister 15hp diesel.  More info: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/pintail-rossiter

Sea Sprite 27/28

LOD: 27’11” LWL: 20’ Beam: 8’10” Draft: 4’3” Displacement: 7,600 lbs. Ballast: 3,600 lbs. General Comments: Bill Luders design built by C. E. Ryder. 6’ headroom. More info: http://www.pickedwiss.com/sea_sprite_28/ http://www.seaspriteassociation.com/

LOD: 27’ LWL: 21’4” Beam: 8’8” Draft: 3’2” with board up, 6’4” board down. Displacement: 7,400 lbs. Ballast: 2,400 lbs.

General Comments: About 700 of these S&S design keel/centerboard cruisers were built between 1961-79. The boats built before the 1976 raised sheer redesign had a classic stepped deckhouse and were more cramped inside, but are preferred by some for their aesthetics and more accessible deck layout. Pluses: Shoal draft of 3’2”. Headroom of nearly 6′. Minuses: Shoal draft keel/centerboard designs are potentially less likely to recover from a knock-down beyond 90 degrees in extreme conditions, but her ample long keel minimizes this threat. More info: Tartan Owners Group

Vancouver 27/28

LOD:  27’ LWL: 22’11” Beam: 8’8” Draft: 4’3” Displacement: 8,800 – 8,960 lbs. Ballast: 3,500 lbs.

General Comments: Designed by Robert Harris as a sturdy ocean passage maker. Cutter rigged with outboard rudder. Built first from 1973-88 in British Columbia on semi-production basis. Later built in Britain by Pheon Yachts who reportedly added a few inches of tumblehome to make her a bit stiffer. Then built by Northshore Yachts who added a foot to the length of the cockpit to make the Vancouver 28. Two versions were built: one with quarterberth and head forward and the other with a V-berth and no quarterberth. Pluses: Headroom is about 6’1″. Large water and fuel tanks. Minuses: Somewhat high-sided and a heavy boat not known for great light air performance. Canadian version reported prone to blistering and some were owner finished with varying quality. More info : https://www.boats.com/reviews/pocket-voyager/

Bristol Channel Cutter 28

LOA: 37’9” LOD: 28’1” LWL: 26’3” Beam: 10’1” Draft: 4’10” Displacement: 14,000 lbs. Ballast: 4,600 lbs.

General Comments: Lyle Hess design built in fiberglass at Sam L. Morse yard in California. Some were built under license at other yards. Currently built at Cape George Marine. Pluses: Classic exquisite design and high quality construction. Minuses: Rare on the market, expensive and heavy. More info: http://capegeorgecutters.com/_boat-designs/bristol-channel-cutter-28/

Cape Dory 28

LOD: 28’1” LWL: 22’2” Beam: 8’10” Draft: 4’ Displacement: 9,000 lbs. Ballast: 3,500 lbs. Sail area: 404 sq. ft.

General Comments: Alberg design. About 389 built between 1975-84. Most were powered by two-cylinder 15-hp Volvo diesels that may be reaching the end of their lifespan. Pluses: 6’2″ headroom. Minuses: Boats built prior to 1978 had plastic ports instead of bronze and no bridgedeck, with low companionway entrance that is best modified for safer offshore passages. More info: http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd28.htm

Cheoy Lee Offshore 28

LOA: 28’ LWL: 22’ Beam: 9’2” Draft: 3’6” with centerboard up. Displacement: 8,000 lbs. Ballast: ? modified full keel with centerboard. Sail area: 377 sq. ft.

General Comments: Bill Luders design. Inboard diesel standard. Tiller or wheel options. Pluses: Moderate draft. Minuses: Teak decks of this era require replacing or removal. Like most centerboard keels, they are prone to jam, break cables, and are difficult to maintain. Better to avoid a centerboard unless the design is of proven quality and you need the shallow draft for your cruising area.  More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/offshore28.htm

Great Dane 28

LOA: 28’ LWL: 21’4″ Beam: 8’2″ Draft: 4’6″ Displacement: 8,500 lbs. Ballast: 3,900 lbs. Sail area: 370 sq. ft.

General Comments:  Some 250 were built in Denmark between 1964-80. Transom/keel-hung rudder. Pluses: Boasts 6′ headroom despite her sleek low profile. More info: http://gd28.wikidot.com/start

L. Francis Herreshoff H-28

LOA: 29’6” LWL: 23’ Beam: 8’10” Draft: 3’11” Displacement: 7,300 lbs. Ballast: 3,950 lbs.

General Comments: Some were built in wood. Of the fiberglass versions, some 300 were built by Compass Yachts of New Zealand from early 1970’s until 1984. Differences to Herreshoff’s original design are a lifted sheer, longer cabin trunk with raised dog house with lowered keel to compensate for increased headroom, and increased length to 29.5 feet. More info: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/h-28-herreshoff

Liberty Yachts Custom 28

LOD: 28’ LWL: 24’ Beam: 9’6” Draft: 4’ Displacement: 12,000 lbs. Ballast: 5,000 lbs.

General Comments: A very heavily constructed double-ended, full keel cruiser. Cutter rig with bowsprit. Built in the 1980’s. Pluses: 6’2” headroom. Minuses: Expensive and heavy.  More info:  http://www.sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=4480

Morris Linda 28  

LOA: 28’1” LWL: 23’4” Beam: 9’2” Draft: 4’4” Displacement: 8,300 lbs. Ballast: 3,900 lbs exterior lead.

General Comments: Chuck Paine design built by Morris Yachts. Pluses: Exquisite design details and quality Morris construction. 6’ headroom. Minuses: Expensive.  More info: https://bluewaterboats.org/morris-28-linda

Pearson Triton 28

LOD: 28’6” LWL: 20’6” Beam: 8’3” Draft: 4’ (later models 4’3”) Displacement: approx. 8,000 lbs. Ballast: 3,019 lbs. (early models before hull #383 external lead, later models encapsulated lead.) Sail area: 362 sq. ft. 100% foretriangle fractional rig.

General Comments: Designed by Carl Alberg in 1959 with over 700 built until 1967. Some were built on the West Coast with slight design and construction differences. Pluses: Plentiful and affordable on the US East coast. 6′ headroom in salon. Lack of interior fiberglass hull liners make modifications and repairs easier. Her short waterline makes her glide easily through the waters running downwind and in light air and when the wind picks up she heels to pick up waterline length and increase hull speed. Minuses: Original East Coast fractional sloop or yawl rig is lightly stayed and requires heavier chain plates and reinforced mast beam for offshore voyaging. Balsa deck cores (on East Coast built boats) and wood rudders need replacing at some point. Cramped galley. Low freeboard, about 2-foot aft, makes her a wet sail to windward and less roomy below than newer boats, but I prefer a boat with low freeboard because it has less resistance to wind and wave and is handy to get aboard from the water or dinghy. The large and low cockpit makes her susceptible to storm waves filling the cockpit so a secure hatch and lockers is important. More info: Alberg Sailboats Triton Atom Video Tours: Triton Interior Tour Triton Exterior Tour

Rhodes Ranger 28/29

LOA: 28’6″ LWL: 20′ Beam: 8′ Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 7,500 lbs. Ballast: reported as 1,900 lbs. external iron or 2,750 lbs. lead.

General Comments:  Philip Rhodes design built by Seafarer in Holland in the 1960’s. Don’t confuse with Gary Mull design Ranger 28. Pluses: 5’10” headroom. Some have optional outboard well in lazarette and the others would be suitable to make the conversion yourself. Minuses: Many have wooden spars that require more vigilance and maintenance than aluminum. More info: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/rhodes-ranger-29

LOA: Just under 32′ including pulpit and outboard hung rudder. LOD: 28’2” LWL: 22’11”’ Beam: 9’6” Draft: 4’3” Displacement: 9,300 lbs. Ballast: 3,600 lbs. encapsulated lead. Sail area: 470 sq. ft. cutter.

General Comments: About sixty of these high quality Walter Shultz design cutters were built by Shannon Yachts of Bristol, R.I. since 1978. Modified full keel with cutaway forefoot and full skeg-protected rudder. Two-cylinder Yanmar. Pluses: 6′ headroom. Minuses: Expensive. More info: https://bluewaterboats.org/shannon

Southern Cross 28

LOA: 30’5” LOD: 28’ LWL: 20’2” Beam: 8’6” Draft: 4’8” Displacement: 8,500 lbs. Ballast: 3,400 lbs.

General Comments: Thomas Gillmer design. Airex cored hulls. Minuses: Some were owner completed kit boats of varying quality. Inboard rudder mounted on substantial skeg with shortened keel compared to the Southern Cross 31. More info: http://www.southerncross-boats.org/memberinfo.html

LOA: 28’  LWL: about 22’ Beam: about 8’ Draft: 4’6” Displacement: 7,850 lbs. Ballast: 3,085 lbs.

General Comments:  About 60 were built at a small yard in Hong Kong. Pluses: Nice lines and good-handling with several having made ocean crossings including by myself on a delivery voyage from the Caribbean to Brazil. Minuses: Variable construction quality with tanks and bulkheads known to come loose over the years. More info: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taipan_28

Westsail 28

LOD: 28’ LWL: 25’ Beam: 9’7” Draft: 4’4” Displacement: 13,500 lbs. Ballast: 4,200 lbs.

General Comments: Some 60 of these smaller sister to the popular, but heavy Westsail 32 were built. Pluses: Beautiful lines and excellent heavy weather boat. Minuses: Heavy and slow in light air. A “K” in the first four digits of the hull number means it was a owner completed kit boat which will have varying construction quality. An “F” means factory finished. More info: http://www.westsail.org/

LOD: 29’3″ LWL: 22’3″ Beam: 9’2″ Draft: 4’7″ Displacement: 9,000 lbs. Ballast: 4,000 lbs. Sail area: 416 sq. ft.

General Comments: One of Alberg’s last designs built in the 1980s as a modernized version of the Alberg 30. Pluses: 6’2″ headroom. Minuses: Limited numbers were built and not many are on the market. More info: http://www.twentynine.ca/

Bayfield 29

LOA: 29’ LOD: about 27’6” LWL: 21’9” Beam: 10’2” Draft: 3’6” Displacement: 7,100 lbs. Ballast: 3,000 lbs.

General Comments: Built in Ontario. Available sloop or cutter with built-in bowsprit. Pluses: The long, full keel provides shallow draft for this size boat. There is a spacious head instead of a cramped V-berth. Minuses: High-sided. Although apparently tiller steering was standard from the factory, most boats on the market today have wheel steering. More info: http://sailquest.com/market/models/bayf29.htm

LOD: 29’2” LWL: 22’8” Beam: 9’2” Draft: 4’6” (fixed keel) Displacement: 8,400 lbs. Ballast: 3,350 lbs. internal lead. Sail area: 402 sq. ft.

General Comments: Designed by Halsey C. Herreshoff. 169 built by Bristol Yachts, Rhode Island from 1966-71. Fixed keel and centerboard versions available. Pluses: Teak toe rails. Above average construction features. More info: https://sites.google.com/site/bristolowners/bristol-models/bristol-29-30

Columbia 29  

LOD: 28’6″ LWL: 22’6″ Beam: 8′ Draft: 4′ Displacement: 7,400 lbs. early models and 8,400 late and MKII models. Ballast: 3,120 lbs. early and 4,100 lbs. late and MKII. Sail area: 382 sq. ft.

General Comments: Sparkman & Stephens design built by Columbia Yachts. Apparently some 300 MKI and MKII versions were built between 1962-67 but I noticed only two were on the market when I did a google search in January 2009. Also some raised deck models were built as the Defender 29. Main design of hull and deck and sail plan remained the same for MKI and II with some minor cosmetic changes. Outboard well and inboard engine options. Pluses: 6′ headroom. Outboard well versions available. Minuses: Few on the market to choose from. The raised deck of the Defender model means more interior volume at the expense of high freeboard. More info: http://www.columbia-yachts.com/c-29.html

Elizabethan 29

LOA: 29′ LWL: 20′ Beam: 7’6″‘ Draft: 4’2″” Displacement: 7,280 lbs. Ballast: About 3,300 lbs. iron. Sail area: 308 sq. ft sloop 100% foretriangle. General Comments: CR Holman design built in UK during 1960’s. Pluses: 5’10” headroom. Her long overhangs reduce wetted surface drag in light airs and she picks up waterline length quickly when heeled. Minuses: The E29 I was aboard struck me how narrow the beam was and cramped feeling below compared to other similar length boats – even the Pearson Ariel 26 seems roomier inside. Access to the inboard engine is tight. More info: https://www.eoa2.org/elizabethan29

Islander 29

LOA: 29′  LWL: about 23′ Beam: 8’11″‘ Draft: 3’8″ Displacement: 7,800 – 8,100 lbs. ? Ballast: 2,500 lbs.? lead. Total sail area: 392 sq. ft. General Comments: Built by Wayfarer Yachts of Costa Mesa, CA. beginning in 1969. Also called the Wayfarer 29. Minuses: Low companionway entrance looks vulnerable to flooding, but can be modified. Atomic 4 gas inboard was standard. Not many produced. More info: http://www.sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=691

LOA: 28’11”  LWL: 20’7″ Beam: 8’11″‘ Draft: 4’7″ Displacement: about 7,800 Ballast: 3,003 lbs. external lead. Total sail area: 363 sq. ft 100% foretriangle masthead sloop.

General Comments: Designed by Bill Tripp. About 50 were built in Holland, mostly by Devries Lentsch Amsterdam Boatyard between 1963-?. 6’1″ headroom in salon and less forward. 6’4″ long settee/bunks. Keel-stepped aluminum mast with spruce spreaders and roller reefing spruce boom. Atomic 4 gas engine. Pluses: A good size overhanging transom permits a custom tilt-up outboard well installation in lazarette but some modification of cockpit is required. This boat has a narrow coachroof with wide side decks. Partial fiberglass liner inside with chainplates bolted through solid fiberglass rather than wood knees or plywood bulkheads. Good quality build construction.  Fiberglass rudder with solid bronze shaft and shoe. Unusually wide (33″) companionway entrance makes for good ventilation and the high bridgedeck makes it very seaworthy. Minuses: Balsa cored deck was properly sealed at factory for most deck fittings but some areas may be susceptible to core rot since these boats are over 50 years old now. More info: Tripp 29

Westerly Konsort 29

LOD: 28’10” LWL: 25’7” Beam: 10’9” Draft: 3’3” Displacement: 9,211 lbs. Ballast: 3,200 lbs. Total sail area: 392 sq. ft.

General Comments: Like her smaller sister the 26’ Centaur, this Laurent Giles designed British boat is listed here among modified full-keelers mainly because its shallow draft and ability to stand upright on her twin keels may be priorities for some sailors. Minuses: Relatively poor light air and windward performance of twin keels. Deep draft fin keel and pilothouse versions not applicable to this list. More info: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/konsort-29-westerly

LOA: 30’3” LOD: 30’3” LWL:  Beam: 8’9” Draft: 4’3” Displacement: 9,000 lbs. Ballast:  3,300 lbs. (encapsulated cast iron) Sail area: 410 sq. ft.

General Comments: Alberg design. Some 750 built by Whitby Boat Works in Ontario from 1962-84. Most of the keel hung rudders are fiberglass composite. Around 1970 there were several changes made including going to a fiberglass interior hull liner, adding a molded fiberglass toe rail with teak cap instead of an all teak toe rail, and improved mast step reinforcement. Before around 1970 the deck and cabin house core may have been masonite, though I know of at least one 1968 model with balsa core. Later models used balsa. Masthead rig. Price range: from average $12K up to $25K. Pluses: Proven circumnavigator. Headroom ranges from a minimum of 6′ for hull liner models to possibly 6’1″ on early models. This is one of my favorite designs. The proportions seem just right. And the ample lazarette locker makes an easy conversion to an outboard well. Minuses: Atomic 4 gas inboard, but many have converted to diesel. Weak forward lower shroud chain plate knees and undersized chain plates. Deck mast step plate has screws that leak into core. Before 1970 the weak laminated mast support deck beams usually need extra support added. Later they added an aluminum support beam within the fiberglass liner. Old teak toe rails prone to leaking and may need replacement. I are placed one with aluminum toe rail. The fiberglass water tank under v-berth is only about 15 gals but integral tanks can be added there or in bilge. More info: http://www.alberg30.org/ There are several A30 refit video tours on my YT channel, such as: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXdS0ufiu1I https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aIKJlfC7GA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7FLbexHsq4&t=4s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDRrJ_udl7Y

Allied Seawind Ketch 30

LOA: 30’6” LWL: 24’ Beam: 9’3” Draft: 4’3” Displacement: 12,080 lbs. Ballast: 4,200 lbs. lead. Sail area: 500 sq. ft.

General Comments: Thomas Gilmer design built by Allied Boat Company of New York. 161 boats were launched between 1962 to 73 of which about 10 were sloop or cutter rigged. First fiberglass boat to circumnavigate. Don’t confuse with the Seawind II which is a foot longer and has wheel steering. Minuses: A bit slow to windward in light airs and the hull/deck joint is reported prone to leaking. More info: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/seawind-allied

LOA: 30’6″ LWL: 22’8” Beam: 9’2” Draft: 4’6” std. keel. (centerboard version 3’4”) Displacement: 8,400 lbs. Ballast: 3,450 lbs. (internal lead) Sail area: 402 sq. ft.

General Comments: Halsey C. Herreshoff sloop design, 174 built from 1968-1978, based on the Bristol 29 hull. More info: https://sailboat.guide/bristol/30

LOA: 30′ LWL: 24’6″ Beam: 10′ Draft: 4’6″ Displacement: 9,600 lbs. Ballast: 3,500 lbs. lead.

General Comments: C.W. Lapworth design built by Jensen Marine in the 1960’s. Not to be confused with the fin keel spade rudder Cal 2-30. Minuses: Atomic 4 gas inboard was standard. More info: http://www.sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_ID=864

Cape Dory 30

LOA: 30 2″ LWL: 22’10” Beam: 9′ Draft: 4’2″ Displacement: 10,000 lbs. Ballast: 4,000 lbs. Sail area: 437 sq. ft. cutter. General Comments: Alberg design. 363 built between 1976-86. Tiller or wheel steering available. More info: http://www.capedory.org/specs/cd30.htm

Cheoy Lee Bermuda 30

LOA: 29’7″  LWL: 24′ Beam: 8’9″ Draft: 3’8″ Displacement: 10,100 lbs. Ballast:  Sail Area: 343 sq. ft.

General Comments: Available as ketch or sloop. Built in Hong Kong from 1962-67 in wood and fiberglass. Minuses: Lots of exterior wood to maintain even on the fiberglass version. More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/bermudas.htm

Cheoy Lee Luders 30

LOA: 29’10” LWL: 22′ Beam: 9’1″ Draft: 4’9″ Displacement: 9,900 lbs. Ballast: 3,750 lbs. Sail area: 425 sq. ft.

General Comments: Bill Luders design built in Hong Kong. Apparently most came with wheel steering though some have a tiller. Minuses: The trademark Cheoy Lee exterior teak needs constant maintenance or even major repairs by now if the previous owner has neglected her. More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/ludders30.htm

Morris Annie 30

LOA: 29’8″  LWL: 24’9″ Beam: 9’8″ Draft: 4’6″ Displacement: 10-11,000 lbs. Ballast: 4,400 lbs lead. Total sail area: 446 sq. ft. (100% foretriangle)

General Comments: Designed by Chuck Paine. Built by Morris Yachts from 1980 on. Sometimes referred to as the Morris 29. A similar design but with canoe transom is the Morris Leigh 30, which is a scaled up version of the Frances 26. Pluses: High quality construction and lovely design. Minuses: Expensive and hard to find since not many were produced. More info: http://www.chuckpaine.com/pdf/30ANNIE230.pdf

LOA: 32’6″ LOD: 30’6″ LWL: 22′ Beam: 9′ Draft: 5′ Displacement: 12,500 lbs. Ballast: 5,000 lbs. Sail area: 565 sq.ft.

General Comments: William Garden design. Some 250 sloops, as well as some pilothouse versions and ketch rigs were built in Redmond, WA from about 1960-84. Pluses: 6’3″ – headroom if you happen to need it. Minuses: Heavy and therefore somewhat slow in light air, though a bowsprit was added to later models to increase sail area and reduce weather helm. Offered also as owner finished kit boat with resulting variable finish quality. More info: https://sailboat.guide/rawson/30

Cape George 31

LOA: 36′ LOD: 31′ LWL: 27’6″ Beam: 9’6″ Draft: 4’6″ Displacement: 15,835 lbs. Ballast: 7,200 lbs. internal lead. General Comments: Cecil Lange design cutter rig with bowsprit built in Port Townsend. Pluses: The factory finished boats are exquisite in design and quality. Minuses: Some are owner finished kit boats. Rare, expensive and heavy. More info: http://capegeorgecutters.com/_boat-designs/cape-george-cutter-21/

Cheoy Lee Offshore 31  

LOA: 30’9″ LWL: 23’4″ Beam: 8’10” Draft: 3’10” Displacement: 10,750 lbs. Ballast: 4,000 lbs. Sail area: 424 sq. ft.

General Comments: Built in Hong Kong by Cheoy Lee in sloop or ketch rig. in the 1960’s. Minuses: Teak decks and lots of exterior wood trim to maintain. Only some of the boats have tiller steering. More info: http://www.cheoyleeassociation.com/offshore31.htm

Golden Hind 31

LOA: 34′ LOD: 31’6” LWL: 26’9” Beam: 9′ Draft: 3’8″ Displacement: 13,500 lbs. Ballast:5,100 lbs. Sail area: 426 sq. ft.

General Comments: Maurice Griffiths design sloop or cutter, mostly built in the UK, first in hard chine plywood and later in fiberglass. Full keel with bilge plates. Pluses: Good boat if you need shoal draft and ability to stand the boat upright on it’s bilge keel plates. 6’2″ headroom. Minuses: If you don’t particularly need the shallow draft, the bilge plates along with full keel add drag reducing sailing efficiency. More info: http://www.eventides.org.uk/goldpic.htm

Hallberg-Rassy Monsun 31

LOA: 30’9” LWL: 24’8” Beam: 9’5” Draft: 4’7″ Displacement: 9,250 lbs. Ballast: 4,200 lbs. Sail area: 430 sq. ft.

General Comments: Over 900 hulls built by Hallberg-Rassy in Sweden between 1974-82. Pluses: Good build quality with several having circumnavigated. More info: https://www.hallberg-rassy.com/yachts/previous-models/hallberg-rassy-monsun-31/

Nicholson 31

LOA: 31’7” LWL: 24’2” Beam: 10’3” Draft: 5’ Displacement: 14,750 lbs. Ballast: 5,300 lbs. Sail area: 500 sq. ft.

General Comments: Built in the UK by Caper & Nicholson as an updated version of the Nicholson 32 which would be on this list as well if not for it’s excessive 5’6″ draft. Pluses: Transom-hung rudder and overall solid good quality. More info: https://nicholson31.com/about/aboutnicholson31/

Pacific Seacraft 31

LOA: 31’10” LOD: 30’6” LWL: 24’2” Beam: 9’10” Draft: 4’/4’11” shoal option/standard full keel. Displacement: 11,000 lb. Ballast: 4,400 lb. external lead. Sail area: 485 sq. ft. sloop, 600 cuter.

General Comments: Crealock design. Early models available with optional tiller, although wheel steering is more common. Some boats have an open interior plan instead of the usual closed off V-berth. Minuses: Expensive. Even though it has a skeg rudder it is well protected and supported by the substantial skeg. More info: http://features.boats.com/boat-content/2000/08/cruising-expert/

Pacific Seacraft Mariah 31

LOA: 36’ LOD: 31’ LWL: 25’ Beam: 10’9” Draft: 4’6” Displacement: 16,000 lb. Ballast: 6,000 lb. Sail area: 596 sq. ft. General Comments: Available with tiller or wheel. Mark II version has bowsprit extended by one foot and a few other variations. Pluses: High quality design and construction typical of Pacific Seacraft. Minuses: Heavy and expensive. More info: https://bluewaterboats.org/pacific-seacraft-mariah-31

Southern Cross 31

LOA: 34’6” LOD: 31’ LWL: 25’ Beam: 9’6” Draft: 4’6” Displacement: 13,600 lb. Ballast: 4,400 lb. internal lead.

General Comments:  Thomas Gilmer designed double-ended cutter with external rudder. Airex cored hulls. Two standard interior layouts – one with standup nav station over a large locker and one with quarterberth. A larger though similar Gilmer design is the Aries 32, but only about 20 of those were built. Pluses: Eight opening ports and two hatches provide good ventilation.  Minuses: Some have owner-finished interiors of mixed quality. Details at: http://www.southerncross-boats.org/

Pearson Vanguard 32

LOA: 32’6″ LWL: 22’4″ Beam: 9’3″ Draft: 4’6″ Displacement: 10,300 lbs. Ballast: 4,250 lbs. internal lead. Sail area: About 470 sq. ft.

General Comments: Phil Rhodes design. Most of the 400 some boats built between 1963-67 were rigged as masthead sloop. Relatively narrow beam with long overhangs make her less roomy than many 32-footers, but her lines are sweet and she sails well. Pluses: Not burdened with excessive freeboard, beam or displacement for a 32-footer. 6′ 4″ headroom if you need it. Minuses: Atomic 4 standard gas inboard is best replaced by diesel or, if you don’t require extended motoring range, with an electric drive as a friend of mine has done with his. A tilt-up outboard well built into the lazarette may be an option because of the ample overhanging transom. More info: https://bluewaterboats.org/pacific-seacraft-mariah-31

Rhodes Chesapeake 32

LOA: 31’9″ LWL: 22’1″ Beam: 8’9″ Draft: 4’9″ Displacement: ? Ballast: 3,750 lbs. external lead. Sail area: 408 sq. ft. working sail and 588 with genoa.

General Comments: Phil Rhodes design similar to his Pearson Vanguard with less beam and deeper draft and more tradition looking square cabin top. About 95 were built in Denmark between 1961-65. More info: https://www.cruisingworld.com/classic-plastic-chesapeake-32/

Westsail 32

LOA: About 40′ including bowsprit and boomkin. LOD: 32’ LWL: 27’6” Beam: 11’ Draft: 5’ Displacement: 19,500 Ballast: 7,000 lbs internal (lead/iron on early boats and all lead casting on later models). Sail area: 629 sq. ft.

General Comments: William Crealock design based on a modified Kendall 32 which was descended from the double-ended Colin Archer pilot boats. About 830 W32’s were built between 1971-80 of which about half were owner finished kits. Pluses: 6’2 headroom. Massively constructed and easily able to carry over a ton of stores. Many of the deck-stepped masts have been rigged with a tabernacle allowing you to raise and lower the mast. Proven heavy weather capable circumnavigator. Check that mast support beam has proper support at base. Minuses: Heavy and slow in light airs, particularly to windward. Lack of cockpit coamings and the high bulwarks amidships mean cockpit can get very wet in heavy weather when water comes over the lee bow and is channeled to the cockpit. Adding amidships scuppers and backrests to the cockpit reduces this problem. Lots of aging exterior teak to maintain. More info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kendall_32 http://www.westsail.org/

4 thoughts on “Classic Small Cruisers List”

I have a Westsail 32 that I’ve decided to sell. https://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/91379

Kinda hoping to see my Ericsson 32-2 on this list. Thanks for all this information.

I have sailed my Bayfield 32 on Lake Erie, known for its chop, since I bought it new in 1982. It is a good, solid boat, sleeps 4 comfortably; the full keel and shoal 3′ 9″ draft make it very stable even if rough weather. Not the fastest on the lake, but it will get up and go in all but the lightest air. Have gone to boat shows for years and always leave very satisfied with what I have. It’s just the right size: small enough to single hand, but big enough to take 4 or 5 people for a weekend or week’s cruise. See pictures on my website; click on ship icon.

MIDGET 20 / HALMAN 20 / NORDICA 20 seems possible. PEARSON ELECTRA 22 seems possible. MICMAC 26 seems absolutely choice and missing from this same list of same type of boats.

MIDGET has the best interior layouts imagineable for BLUEWATER AMBITIONS.

Bluenose 23 McVay and MicMac 26 McVay, wow. Got a hard on look at them and MIDGET too. wow. special to think 1 person in a BLUENOSE 23 ends up in the Tuamotus and has a bigger cockpit for catching Blue Trevali, light tough and fast for doldrums stall out in something like a lumbering FLICKA. BTW, FLICKA 20 is a 25′ boat, wow. Nice name though.

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long distance cruising in a PS 34?

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Any Pacific Seacraft 34 owners out there complete a major passage; i.e., crossing the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans? I know the boat is capable of doing so safely, but from what I have read it seems like most major passages are made on boats > 40 ft.  

Joshua Slocum's Spray was 36-foot-9-inches long. About 14 sub-40 footers are presently racing around the world single-handed, nonstop. Check out the Mini Transat 6.50 if you want to see even smaller boats crossing the Atlantic. You don't need a 40 plus footer to cross oceans any more than you need a huge SUV to commute to work. In both cases, it is the person making the decisions that will make or break any trip. The size of the boat, however, directly affects the comfort of those aboard. Some of us prefer the home-like comforts of a larger boat and others are perfectly happy to camp out, living in a cramped, tiny space.  

capta said: Joshua Slocum's Spray was 36-foot-9-inches long. Click to expand...

Try Googling "Voyage of the Swan" and read about Dave and Rhonda Mancini's voyages in their PSC 34. Dave provided an amazing amount of information about his PSC 34 and his cruising. You can also search this site for his entries.  

I will definitely check that out - thanks!  

:cut_out_animated_em forgive my ignorance,, but what do they do when storms come round try to out sail them? I'd think that would be a helluva bumpy ride in a small boat...  

The theory is the bigger a boat the better it can handle heavy weather. Which would be more comfortable in a storm, a 45 footer racer/cruiser or a full keeled double ender like the PSC34?  

Throw a Jordan series drogue off the stern, button up, take a sturgeron and go to sleep on the saloon sole just like you would on a bigger boat. Unless you’re on a Rapido 60 this business of outrunning storms is fantasy. You can preposition to miss a cyclonic depression with sufficient forewarning on occasion but think any boat going to sea should be able to handle a gale with storm sails and a storm with drogue or sea anchor  

When we were out doing French Polynesia in the '70s, most boats were under 40', many well under. One French Couple had sailed from home in a converted Life Boat that wasn't much more than 20' if that. Grant, who probably is on the list, cruised with his wife on a 26' boat, we were on a 32', many others in boats in the mid 30's. The single humongous boat was a 44' that had the novelty of novelties, a washer dryer combo. Their gear was good for a lot of conversation among us cruisers on why you'd want, let alone install, a W/D on a boat. The idea of cruising on a boat bigger than 40' was largely a foreign concept. Of course most of us were in our late 20's, 30's and sailed what we could afford. Since GPS has ruined cruising, anyone with enough money to buy a condo can buy a floating one and point it somewhere. One upmanship seems to have taken over with half century catamarans that have more heads than crew aren't at all unusual. It's not that you need all that boat but that they can afford it. A boat with the reputation of the PSC should be stout enough even for sailing the Capes. Wouldn't hesitate a moment in taking one that was reasonably prepared almost anywhere.  

A Pacific Seacraft 34 is a fine ocean going boat. Some people prefer a larger boat, some a smaller. Some prefer the motion of a traditional vessel, some like the more modern designs. I believe that there is no such thing as comfortable ride in a small boat in a storm. Like everything else, it's a trade-off. What is of more concern is the basic seaworthiness, the condition of the boat, and the proficiency of the crew. Seaworthyness has been debated at length on this and other forums. Different issues come to play, but the basic idea is that many boats are seaworthy, but some are obviously designed for non ocean use. That dosen't take into account, which ocean. Are we talking trans Pacific, or Southern Ocean? Antarctica or the Carribean. All of that matters. Leaving that debate for a while, look at the condition of the boat. When was the standing rigging replaced? How are the ... well the list goes on, as you can fill in for yourself. One area specific to the PS 34 is the condition of the chainplates. On every boat preparing for ocean use, the skipper is responsible for a huge amount of inspection and preparation. The longer the voyage, the more detailed the preparation. The crew is crucial. People point to Sloucum as an inspiration. I read a recent biography, sorry, I've forgotten the author, that recounted the depth of experience that he had on sailing vessels. How you sail the boat, how you react to situations (and emergencies) and how you know what needs to be done - and how to do it- make a huge difference in the safety and enjoyment of your passages. A well found PS 34, with a good crew. Hell yes, it would make a fine passage maker. So would a lot of other boats. There is one thing that I've neglected to discuss: Fate. Fate, luck, God's will ... whatever you call it. My friend calls it the Goddess of Chance. Sometimes things just work out. Sometimes they don't. Since a well found boat with a good crew are the best we can do, we pay our money and take our chances. Luck favors the prepaired mind is an old saying, true in life, and true in sailing.  

75 gallons of water and 38 gallons of fuel is not small. Smaller boat, smaller diesel, lower fuel fuel consumption. The engine stated in Sailboat Data is 38hp which is way overpowered to my thinking. Have a 27hp Yanmar in my same size boat and it's more than adequate. Hopefully lower rpm will equate to lower fuel consumption even with too big engine. We had identical water capacity in two tanks. Caught water from the awning and never had to switch to 2nd between rainfalls filling the tanks back up in French Polynesia. Yes you can be profligate with water but disconnecting the pressure water pump and only using foot pumps is an instant no pain conservation technique. If you can't get by on the fuel and water capacity of a PSC 34 you really should consider a floating condo permanently attached to a dock with water and electric.  

To address the original poster, Lisken (PSC34) has completed a transatlantic - last year I believe. She is now somewhere in the Sweden/Norway area. Sailed from Newfoundland to Ireland if I remember correctly. Hope the following link works: https://sailingthelisken.wordpress.com/  

I will check it out, thanks!  

Checking out "Voyages of Swan" is a great idea and a good resource. Reading through it years ago was instrumental in my decision to buy the PSC 34.  

kbbarton: They accidentally gybed in strong wind. Here is the excerpt. "We are slower than yesterday. Running fast with main up didn’t work so well. Lesson Learned…Don’t run down wind with too much main sail! Especially if there are big waves causing yawing. You might jibe on a yaw causing the boom to crash across….Dumb Dumb Dumb but sometimes you have to learn the hard way. What happened? The boom broke in half just behind the main sheet pulleys!!!! On this boat the traveler is in front of the companionway hatch. So half the length of the boom is Aft of the pulleys. The clew of the main sail is pulled from the end of the boom even with one or two reefs. I had no idea that I could snap the boom in half. It was blowing 30 knots with 2 reefs when it happened. Anyway that’s why we have no main sail up and are going a little slower."  

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Hunter 30 Review

The Hunter 30 built from 1974 until 1983 is a John Cherubini design, as was the companion Hunter 27. Over the course of its nine-year production run, approximately 1,000 were built. The latest 30 we examined was a 1980 model, hull #934.

The Hunter 30 is handsome from some angles but just a bit too flat in the sheer and high in the cabin top to be considered beautiful. The hull is very full to give a lot of interior room, but otherwise quite typical of the racer-cruisers of the 1970s.

The interior was originally a strong selling point for the boat. Almost every owner commented on the size of the interior – often relative to low price – when talking about their reasons for buying the 30.

Layout is conventional, with a good V-berth forward, then a head with small hanging locker opposite, settee berths on each side with a drop-leaf table in the middle, an L-shaped galley, with the sink underneath the companionway, and a quarter berth, with a tiny chart table at its head. The berths are of decent size, though a tall person will wish they were all a few inches longer.

Many of the boats have alcohol stoves (“Cooks about like a solar oven,” said one owner) that will be due for upgrading. The icebox on the boat we looked at had minimal insulation and would benefit from several more inches all around.

The deck house is high and wide, and this gives a look of spaciousness below. The white hull liner overhead helps to offset the extensive teak veneer on the bulkheads, ceilings, sole, and furniture.

There are adequate windows and hatches for adequate light inside, and opening portlights (Hunter was one of the first production boats to offer numerous opening ports as standard) to give good ventilation. If the boat has not been upgraded by the time of purchase, the new owner will probably want to add Dorade or solar vents to keep the air moving when the opening ports must be closed.

Finish below is average – typical of the low-cost production boats which depend on pre-fab components, rapidly installed in the hull. In our owner surveys, there were a great many complaints about sloppy detailing in the joinerwork, door hinges, hardware, and loose trim. Storage space is minimal, and water tankage of 35 gallons is marginally adequate for cruising.

From the Hunter 30 review. To read the complete review of this popular sailboat, in addition to ten other entry-level cruisers, purchase and download the ebook Entry-Level Sailboats, Volume Two from Practical Sailor .

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